Creality Ender 3 S1 PRO: In-depth review, Ender 3 S1 VS Ender 3 S1 PRO, side-by-side comparison

[Music] welcome back to aurora tech channel last december i reviewed the ender 3 s1 which is the most advanced creality printer that i have ever used it is packed with all the updated features that you can expect from a new generation 3d printer and the print quality was also outstanding last week per gear sent me the ender 3 s1 pro to review when i first looked at this printer it looked like it was just the ender 3 s1 except with the high temperature hotend that can print up to 300 degrees to print nylon nylon carbon fiber and other high temperature filament however it is actually much more than that some of the upgrades are obvious while others are just small details first let's take a look at the common features between these two printers one a new creality sprite dual gear direct drive extruder two a dual z axis with a timing belt three a 32-bit board and silent stepper drivers four c or touch auto bed leveling five x and y axis belt tensioners six a filament sensor seven a spring steel sheet removable print surface eight a color screen nine a higher quality limit switch a durable heated bed cable a sturdy base clean cable management using a ribbon cable drawers and full-size sd card support besides these common features the ender 3 s1 pro has seven major upgrades one hot end using a titanium heat break the maximum nozzle temperature has increased from 260 celsius to 300 celsius the hotend thermistor has also been upgraded so this printer can now print nylon nylon carbon fiber polycarbonate and other high temperature filament two extruder the extruder body and the filament feeding lever have been upgraded from plastic to metal three screen the color screen with knock control has been upgraded to a color touch screen four print surface the sticker print surface on the spring steel sheet has been upgraded to textured pei five insulation was added at the bottom of the heated bed to improve energy efficiency six a led light with an on and off switch was added at the top of the gantry 7. a redesigned base it changed from a sheet metal and plastic front panel with the side aluminum extrusions outside of the base to a one-piece injection mold base that wraps the aluminum extrusions inside for a better appearance there are also three minor upgrades one the maximum temperature of the heated bed was increased slightly from 100 celsius to 110 celsius as the pei print surface can sustain a higher temperature than the sticker two a heated bed handle was added three an improved drawer design with larger capacity and a handle was added for easier access and there were two changes one the power supply and power switch were relocated from the left side to the right side two there is a new screen ui that supports nine different languages these are all the differences i can find so far so let's start testing out this printer and compare some of the prints with the ender 3s1 [Music] we have the base the gantry the sprite hot end the 4.3 inch touchscreen the filament holder and run out sensor the power cord tools and some sample filament i will first attach the gantry to the base move it to the edge of the table insert two m5 by 45 long screws and tighten them rotate it and do the same to the other side next put the extruder on the x carriage plate use four m three by six millimeter screws to secure it mount the filament holder on the top of the gantry there are no t-nuts or screws so you just need to snap it on the t-slot connect the touchscreen cable and use four m4 by 18 millimeter screws to mount the screen at the front right of the base we can now connect some cables starting with the filament sensor and then the z-stepper motor on the right side there are two cables taped on the gantry they are the filament sensor and the led light then the z-stepper motor on the left grab the ribbon cable and the two small connectors in the middle the wider one is for the x-stepper motor and the other one is for the x-limit switch connect the end of the ribbon cable to the hot end assembly and secure it there is a label on the screen protector that reminds you to check the voltage at the back before connecting the power as you can see it was set to 230 volts by default as i'm in the us i would just flip it to 115 volts now the assembly is done we can connect the power and turn it on i will do auto home to make sure the stepper motors limit switches and the cr touch sensor are all working select ready and you can home x and y or home z in fact if you select home z first without homing x and y it would just do all three axes together next i will set the z offset to do that we need to go to settings level select aux level and this will bring up the manual corner level menu and the z offset adjustment buttons let's move the nozzle down to the bed negative 3.15 millimeters is slightly scratching the paper so i will keep this value then go to the center and the corners of the bed and adjust the knob underneath to level all four corners we want to keep the bed as level as possible before doing auto bed leveling okay click auto level at the bottom of the screen and then press start the cr touch will probe 16 points on the bed [Music] okay we can preheat the bed and nozzle once the temperature of the nozzle reaches 200 degrees we can feed in some filament just press down on the lever to release the spring pressure and push the filament in let's go to the computer and set up this printer you can install the older version of cura in the sd card that came with the printer profile but i will just add this printer to my own cura select add printer and since this printer profile is not available in the latest cura i would just select enter 3 pro and change the name to s1 pro we also need to change the maximum z height to 270 millimeters the retraction settings are the same as ender 3 s1 so a distance of 0.8 and 35 millimeters per second should be fine let's start with a simple calibration cube to make sure everything is working [Music] the layers and surfaces all look good even when i zoom in very close let's print another one with the ender 3s1 and compare them these two cues may look slightly different depending on the light reflection angle but i would say they are pretty much identical next i will print a 3d benchy on both printers to compare i will also use a power meter to check the power consumption as the ender 3 s1 pro has insulation under the heated bed so i want to see how much energy it can save it consumed 0.179 kilowatt hour which is 179 watt hour the ender 3s1 consumed 203 watt hour so the insulation really can save some power let's compare the results they're also identical and they both look super nice [Music] then i will try a tough print the eiffel tower let's resize it to 270 millimeters so we can use the maximum height of this printer i have used the ender cs1 to print the same model before and it looked great so let's see how this ender 3s1 pro prints and compare the two [Music] [Music] [Music] okay the print quality comparison ends here as these two are essentially identical i will just keep the focus on the ender3 s1 pro and test out different materials i will try some petg filament to print a phone booth i will change the nozzle to 235 degrees and the bed to 85 degrees i'll also set the maximum cooling fan speed to 40 percent [Music] [Music] the pecg foam booth is also printed very nicely [Music] next i will try some abs filament to print a set of shelf brackets i will change the nozzle temperature to 255 degrees and the bed to 110 degrees it looks like this textured pei sheet sticks abs really well i can just print abs directly on it without applying glue the bottom sticks well during the whole print there's no warping no issues and the print quality is good as well [Music] next i will try some high temperature filament i will print this set of foam mounts there are three parts the main body the knob and the top first i will use nylon to print the main body the nylon filament i'm using is based on a copolymer of nylon 6 and nylon 6.6 i actually printed it at 260 degrees with a slower speed but the best result i got was at 280 degrees so i will set the nozzle temperature to 280 and the bed to 60. cooling should be off i also put this roll of nylon filament in this dryer generally nylon requires a higher temperature of around 80 to 90 degrees to dry but most affordable dryers between 50 to 100 in the market are designed for pla petg or abs making them unable to reach this high temperature so i just used the maximum temperature of this machine which is 50 degrees and dried it for 12 hours [Music] [Music] this long piece of the nylon part sticks pretty well on this print surface the first layer looks good and it sticks well during the whole print [Music] as you can see there is no warping on all of the corners the texture at the back also looks nice as the threads are all clean and sharp next i will try to print the knob with nylon glass fiber filament it's harder than nylon and the temperature has to be set to 300 degrees for a good result i will keep the other settings unchanged dry it with the same filament dryer for 12 hours and start this print [Music] [Music] the result seems okay but there's a little bit of burned filament residue from the nozzle on the bottom finally i will use the same settings to print the top of the mount with nylon carbon fiber it started okay but after a few layers this carbon fiber filament can't stick to the bed and i had to stop the print i tried to lower the nozzle and start the print again hoping it would stick better but it still didn't work as you can see the bottom of this model only has a small contact surface with the bed so i think it's safer to use a glue stick however i won't use that on a textured surface because it won't be easy to clean up so i just flipped it over applied some glue on the back of the steel sheet and started the print again this time it sticks very well in fact it just prints on the thin layer of glue so no matter what print surface you're using it should still stick well okay it printed successfully the glue looks a bit messy but it's easy to clean on the flat steel surface the phone mount looks pretty nice it has a nylon body a nylon glass fiber knob and a nylon carbon fiber top it's very rigid and should be more durable than those off the shelf cheap phone mounts after all these prints i would say the print quality of this ender 3 s1 pro is as good as the ender 3 s1 they are both outstanding the ender 3s1 series is really a huge step for creality as they are no longer producing diy 3d printers that require a lot of tinkering and upgrades to print well these are consumer products that work great right out of the box the new spray extruder is working really well it handled tough models like the eiffel tower which require an excessive amount of retraction using the maximum z height of the printer at 270 millimeters to print the tiny tip of the tower still looks great these towers are the best i have ever printed using an out of the box printer without any upgrades the new textured pei spring steel sheet also works pretty well it sticks well on most filament and it should also stick well with nylon carbon fiber but the tiny contact surface of the model was challenging to print without using some glue this textured sheet is quite good even when you set the nozzle height a little bit too low the first layer will be more squished but sticks well without forming an elephant foot at the bottom the surface doesn't easily have marks and damage left behind as you can see the pei texture sheet is still brand new but the sticker sheet on the ender 3s1 has some marks the new led light is working great it consumes around just seven watts per hour and it's good enough for you to see the print at night without having to turn on other lights in the room it also has an on and off switch in case you don't need the light the ender 3 s1 pro uses less energy than the s1 and my old ender 3 pro so the insulation under the heated bed did make a difference in order to print a 3d benchy the s1 pro used 179 watt hour the s1 used 203 watt hour and my old ender3 pro used 204 watt hour which is basically the same as the s1 as they both have no insulation keep in mind that the led light also consumes another 6 watt hour because i kept it on during the whole print so the s1 pro actually saved 17 of power compared to the s1 the assembly is easy just like the ender 3s 3s1 the appearance is even nicer with the redesigned one piece injection mold base that wraps the two side aluminum extrusions the drawer is also easier to access and has a larger capacity this printer is almost perfect but i would still like to suggest some improvements first the redesigned ui did include all the features in the ender 3s1 or under3v2 screen you can adjust z offset in real time set the step value of the stepper motors change the speed acceleration junction deviation and preset the temperature for preheating filament however the menu is not organized that well and you may need to take some time to actually find the features for example if i just want to simply preheat pla i need to go to the ready menu in other creality printers this is called prepare then i have to click the manual tab on top and here it is this may not be the best place to put this feature another example is if i want to adjust the z offset i need to go to settings select level select aux level which is supposed to manually level the four corners of the bed and then the z offset adjustment buttons show up here personally i would rather have the screen ui based on the ender 3s1 or ender 3v2 and just add extra features under the same structure of the menu second as this printer came with the high temperature hot end using it to print abrasive filament like nylon carbon fiber or nylon glass fiber should be expected but this printer didn't come with any hardened steel nozzles it only came with two standard brass nozzles which will wear out really quickly when used to print abrasive filament i would suggest that creating can include some extra hardened steel nozzles with the machine finally there is still no wi-fi printing as the latest top of the line creality 3d printer this ender 3 s1 pro should include a wi-fi module with a few extra dollars it can add an esp32 or even a cheaper esp8266 module with the curio plugin that allows you to upload gcode files directly from cura and start printing just like how you use an inkjet printer creality has a wifi box that supports the usage of their mobile app to send print jobs to the printer but that's not how most people would usually print with a 3d printer in conclusion this ender 3 s1 pro does meet my expectations the hardware is awesome the build is solid and the print quality is amazing it is based on the already good ender 3s1 and it also added a variety of useful upgrades the 300 degree hot end that can print nylon and other high temperature filament really brings this printer to the next level if you are still choosing between the ender 3s1 ender s1 pro or other mid-range printers i would highly recommend this ender 3 s1 pro even though you may not need to print high temperature filament for now the price of this printer is close to 500 which is not cheap but buying a cheaper printer and adding the features that came with the ender ender3 s1 pro afterwards would cost you even more like my old 200 ender 3 pro where i spent more than 300 and countless hours to add many upgrades last year i recently added a 90 motherboard and a touch screen so i am quite happy with all the upgrades but it is still not as good as the ender 3 s1 pro i have another review video for the ender 3s1 that goes into more detail and i put the video link under the description if you're interested in the s1 pro i also put the link down below that's it for this video if you like this video please hit the like and subscribe button my brother and i make a new video every weekend so check out my channel on mondays and you'll see something new see you next week

Channel: Aurora Tech

Views: 73,928

Keywords: Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1, Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, Creality Ender 3 S1, Ender-3 S1, Ender-3 S1 Pro, Sprite extruder, Creality Sprite extruder, Ender 3 S1 Pro vs Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 or Pro, Ender 3 S1 or Ender 3 S1 Pro, should I buy Ender 3 S1 Pro, Prusa or Ender 3 S1, Prusa MK3S+ or Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, Prusa vs ender 3 s1, Prusa vs ender 3 s1 pro

Id: x7nIJoKfc78

Length: 21min 48sec (1308 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 24 2022