Ender 3 S1 Pro Review - Engineering Grade Materials

hello this is irv shapiro with make with tech here at make with tech we teach people how to innovate how to create how to design how to make things by using desktop technology and today we're going to explode the envelope of possibilities we're going to learn how to use innovative engineering grade materials materials that were classically only used in advanced manufacturing on a 3d printer that sells for about five hundred dollars this is an ender three model s1 pro a bit different than the model s1 that i reviewed a few weeks ago so stay tuned and let's learn something together [Music] if you're new to watching make with tech videos then i want to let you know that we're more than just a video channel on youtube we're also a discussion forum a place you can come and share ideas and ask questions and post pictures of the things that you make at forum.makotek.com we're a place you can go to search for the latest 3d models and customize them with a working 3d customizer at models.makuatek.com so please join our family subscribe here on youtube give me a thumbs up because the youtube algorithm really likes that and share this video with everyone you know so let's talk about advanced materials but before we do that let's talk about this ender 3 s1 pro so the ender 3 s1 sells for 379 dollars and this printer sells for i think four hundred and ninety nine dollars so it's an eighty dollar difference between the two printers what do you get for the eighty dollars well you get a fully enclosed case that has all of the metal components enclosed in plastic i don't think if that adds any particular value looks nice i'm not sure that adds any value you get a touch screen lcd panel instead of an lcd panel with a knob now the touch screen doesn't add a lot but the firmware is different the firmware is clearly a next generation of firmware that's a big plus you get sort of a cute feature let me turn this printer on for a minute you'll hear that it's relatively quiet you'll notice here this light now i thought that was just cute in reality i found it was very very useful when i was printing so that's a nice feature but what you really get that's most important is an extruder that looks very similar but is really quite different first of all the extruder itself has all metal parts which allows it to generate increased force that means it can handle a wider range of materials the hot end is an all-metal hotend there is no teflon tube no bowden style tube inside that could potentially give off fumes at high temperatures it's an all metal hot end now it does ship with a standard brass nozzle in fact this is the brass nozzle i don't know if you can see this that it shipped with that i've replaced on this printer with a hardened steel coated nozzle that i purchased from micro swiss and let's see here i purchased this nozzle for twenty dollars on amazon and the reason is that in addition to printing engineering grade materials that were non-abrasive i wanted to be able to print abrasive materials now why is it this printer can print engineering grade materials because the hot end on a standard ender printer most of them are similar can go to about 230 235 degrees safely and part of the reason is there's that teflon tube a piece of bowden tube inside the hot end you can look at this picture here on the screen and you'll see in the traditional hot end the bowden tube goes all the way down to the nozzle and in the all metal hot end the bowden tube stops pretty much at the top of the architecture or the filament goes directly in as it does in this printer so this can print at 300 degrees in addition i've successfully used this print bed at 110 degrees celsius now originally when people started releasing print beds that are like this that have magnets on them so this is a spring steel bed this is actually not the one that came with the creality i'll explain why in a few moments but this is a magnetic bed and it did not release at high temperature because i ran this print bed up to 110 degrees celsius so what do you get for 80 dollars you get an engineering grade hot end with all metal components you get a light get a little nicer lcd panel you get enhanced firmware for the higher temperatures and for the touch screen so i think it's well worth the dollars let's put this in a different perspective about three years ago when i started with 3d printing i bought a prusa i3 mk3 it's still made today it's now called the nk3 i think it's the s or the s plus basically the same printer with some refinements along the way valuable refinements but refinements that printer as a kit sold for 750 and it took me a solid five to six hours to assemble it now today knowing more maybe i could assemble it in three to four hours but assembling a prusa i3mk3 style printer is hard work why it comes with lots of little parts because prusa's philosophy with that printer was to 3d print as much as possible this printer comes 90 assembled the base is assembled the print bed is assembled you basically take this rail you screw it into the base you screw the extruder on with three or four screws you put the filament rack on the top and you're done you know it's like 10-15 minutes it's really easy at 750 dollars compared to 500 dollars and five hours of assembly compared to 15 minutes of assembly this printer is just a not only a better value but the printer i would choose today what's as interesting is the prusa fully assembled is a thousand dollars so this printer is half the price of the prusa and as far as i could tell my tests over the last couple of weeks it can do everything the prusa can do so let's talk about those things well the first thing i do when i get a new printer is i produce some prints and often the first things i print are things on the sd card there are these little tiny prints on the sd card these are printed in matter hacker build pla we're using all filaments i purchased from matter hacker today important note i did not pay for this printer this printer was provided to me by peer gear a amazon distributor at no cost but i did pay for all the filament i'm using here today and these sample prints are great they look the same as the prints off the ender 3 s1 so then i wanted to knock it up a level so i printed this print now this is a little more technically challenging of print there's a little bit of stringing on this print in a couple different places but the reason is i wanted to test the extruder now this test is very subjective not very scientific so what i did is i went into cura and i increased the top print speed to 150 millimeters per second yeah i know that doesn't actually flow all the way through many of the speeds for other areas printing either your walls printing the first layer printing the top later or formulaic but things like acceleration and jerk retraction those all impact this printer so but i just wanted a coarse test i also set the layer height to 0.3 millimeters so you can see the layers very clearly on here why'd i do that i wanted to try to force a lot of filament out of this extruder so printing fast with larger layers requires more filament it had no difficulty at all now i will note here that i compared the speed i got in the estimate from cura to the real speed and the speed i could print this on my fl sun super racer and that's a great high-speed printer the quality is not quite as good as the ender series but that printer is still a third faster than this ender printer when i did this rough adjustment so if i really fine tune the profile i think this could be eighty percent of the speed of my super racer but a delta style printer is still a faster printer because jerk and acceleration many other parameters are just easier to optimize for speed now one of the filaments i really like using is color fab xt but color fab xt requires higher temperatures and i have 13 printers here in the make with tech lab but only one of them and it's not physically here it's actually at my son's house now my prusa can print it over 235 degrees celsius and this color fab xt requires at least 240 degrees i generally print it at 245 with the bed set to about 75 degrees and the reason i like it is it produces these beautiful translucent prints now i printed that on the pei print bed that comes with this s1 this is an enhanced print bed the on the s1 pro versus the s1 and most people say you shouldn't print p e t g and colorfabb xt is a petg type of filament on these because they stick too well so what i did is i put a liberal amount of dimmafix on top as a release agent most of the time you use demofix as an adhesive the purpose i was using it was as a release agent it worked perfectly this stuck without any problem now let me show you how beautiful this print is by turning off the lights here in the studio and putting a light on under here so alexa turn off the studio lights okay isn't that pretty now you'll see here this is a little base i bought online for about 20 bucks it's an led base and it changes colors alexa turn on the studio lights so this was a very very successful print i would not have been able to print on a different printer now after printing this beautiful print i decided it was time to do some engineering related things things i could think about the strength of the material and so i decided to print some carabiners now these carabiners and these crystals are both open s-cad models now the crystals come from a really interesting organization called code and make darin over at codex make produces wonderful s-cad models that you can use with the customizer the open s-cad customizer now to do that you download the code for the model you install openscad that's a lot of work for folks and used to be a couple years ago you could use a customizer on thingiverse that's been broken for a long time so i went ahead and i built an online customizer that anybody can use for free at models.makewitch.com so if you want to print these crystals go to models.makotech.com and type in the number i'll put it up on the screen and put it in the description 484 2466 into the search bar for thingiverse and click search and this model will come up and then you can change the sizes the dimensions the number of crystals on your build now you can do the same thing with the carabiner the carabiner is 57174 just go to type in 57174 and these actually are designed to be smaller i wanted them bigger so i could sort of test them so first i printed one in pla this is a silk pla which is why it's that beautiful color and it's quite strong but it i feel it's starting to give as i pull it and it's very clear that if i squeeze it like this it's going to crack now that's a characteristic of pla pla is relatively strong but it's brittle so what could i print it in that would be as strong or stronger but not brittle i could print it in nylon and nylon is equally strong i cannot break this and you can see here that you can push in on the sides it's not going to break it's going to bend that's why they make things like seat belts out of nylon it's both flexible and strong well there's a wonderful nylon that you can purchase at matter hackers which is tauman 3d nylon 230 and i purchased it in the natural color that's this color here and it's one of the easier nylons to print with so i printed this right on the pei sheet the standard bed that came with the ender 3s1 pro i did use a liberal amount of denim dimmafix and i had to heat up the heat bed to 100 degrees celsius now that's another thing you can't necessarily do on every consumer grade printer another plus for the s1 pro and that produced a wonderful wonderful product now i wanted to do something even more extreme nylon axe is a filament from matter hackers that is nylon reinforced with carbon fiber now there are other manufacturers that make a carbon fiber reinforced nylon i'm just a big fan of the quality i get from matter hackers i bought this film they did not provide it to me for free now this stuff though is a little bit pricey nylon x was 58 for a half a kilogram of filament to put that in perspective pla the build pla for matter hackers is 20 for a full kilogram reel a full reel the nylon 230 the tauman nylon 230 is 45 dollars for a full reel so this nylon the nylon is basically twice the spa price of pla and nylon x is 2x again so why would you use it well because it is a true engineering grade material first of all when you feel it it's a little bit rough it doesn't feel like just regular plastic it is strong like nylon but much stiffer like pla except you're not gonna break it now one of the reasons i printed all these and i'm gonna print a lot more of them is i ordered a stress meter a digital stress meter digital force strain meter and i'm going to be in a future video i'm going to be doing an actual test to show you exactly how strong these different materials are so you can determine whether to print in pla in petg in nylon or in nylon x but there's a problem with nylon x and in fact there's a problem with all nylon nylon absorbs moisture that's why even here you'll see these in these fancy bags now these bags are actually really useful and i happen to buy them from amazon from the sun brand who also makes filament but it's interesting this is one of the things you go online you look for and you'll see five different manufacturers have the box that looks identical for every manufacturer with a different name here so these were 20 bucks for 20 bags and what this comes with is both the bags and this little vacuum pump that works remarkably well to take the air out of the bag so when you're not using this filament you need to store it in a place where it will not absorb moisture now the humidity here in my shop is about 37 38 which is not terrible when i go to the um southern coast in the united states to visit my son the humidity there is 80 or 90 but that still would be enough to cause a problem so i print directly out of a print dryer now this is a print dryer from evos i have two different print dryers from ebos the eboz print priors were provided to me at no cost by ebos and the way this works is you put your filament inside you plug it in and it blows hot air through here now when i'm using one of these print dryers the inside humidity in these print dryers is about 19 18 percent sometimes it gets even a little lower so generally i leave the filament in here for a few hours before i'm going to use it to make sure it's good and dry and then i print right out of it now this evos single size print dryer did a really good job of drying the filament of getting the humidity down quickly much better than the dual filament dryer that i also have but there was a problem when i put a reel in here and then i fed the filament out for some reason the way the wheel interacted with the hub in the middle it didn't turn real smoothly and that might have been the tauman reel specifically but it didn't so i it didn't turn smoothly so i switched to using the two reel filament driver instead of the single reel driver for the prints that you see here so i would dry the filament print with it from the filament driver and then store it in one of these bags now there's another challenge with nylon x because it's abrasive if you leave your standard brass nozzle on your printer it's going to ruin it you need to replace it with a hardened steel or potentially a ruby nozzle some type of hardened nozzle i used the micro swiss hardened steel nozzle which was 20 on amazon but i actually used a tool from olsen ruby that they make for their ruby nozzle and it's a torque wrench to make sure you tighten that nozzle just the right amount now it comes with a seven millimeter socket which is the right size for the hardened nozzle but the original nozzle in the printer required a six millimeter socket so you just switch the socket now the other thing you need to do and i'll show you some pictures here when you go to unscrew that nozzle you have to hold the heating element on your printer so it doesn't turn now some people use these big wrenches you can buy these online i really like using a robo grip from ridgid i find it's just the right size on the side of that heat block you'll see there are two wires there's a set of wires for the heating element and a set of wires for the thermistor basically the thermometer inside the heating block you want to make sure you don't break those and to get to the nozzle i actually took the fan and the bed leveling sensor off to make it easier to get to that i'll show you a picture of how i set that up to make it easy to replace so i replaced the nozzle when you replace the nozzle you re-level the bed and i went to print and i did a whole bunch of different prints and they didn't stick to the bed basically they would the first layer would print really well and after a couple layers it would come loose and start moving around and then my print would fail so i tried a lot of different things i tried using the regular print surface with a variety of different adhesives including two different brands of glue stick that didn't work i tried switching to a creality glass bed both the smooth side with glue stick and the rough side that didn't work i even tried a sheet of gheralite now i'm not actually sure this is gearlight i bought this online geralite's in short supply right now during the supply shortage and i really wanted to buy the matter hacker gear light made for printing nylon but they're out of stock of it so i tried this gear light i tried roughing it up with sandpaper putting glue stick on it all the things you're supposed to do that didn't work and then i tried something called gecko tech because people have recommended it it didn't work so you might be asking how did i successfully print this well i went back to an old trick from my early days of 3d printing when print beds weren't very good i took a spring steel sheet just a generic one not the one from creality and i put blue painters tape on it yep regular old-fashioned 3m brand and i think the brand matters here 3m brand blue painters tape then i put some purple glue stick on it i heated the bed to 70 degrees celsius i printed the filament at let me check my notes here to make sure i get this correct at 255 degrees celsius the bed was actually at 75 degrees celsius perfect it stuck to the bed it didn't move at all and when i let it fully dry it was still stuck a little bit so i had to take a single age edge razor blade and get out of under a corner a little bit and pry it up and then use a paint scraper to get it up just a little but it wasn't bad and it wasn't bad enough to even damage the painters tape now you see here i'm rubbing the painters tape never do that you're getting oil for your fingers all over that painter's tape that's a bad thing so put the painters tape down don't touch it put the glue stick on it heat your bed to about 75 c that's all you need to do now once matter hackers has their gear light back in stock i'm going to try that because painters tape is messy to use it takes a little bit of extra time so what did we learn today we learned that this s1 pro can handle any of the engineering grade materials i threw it it prints pla it prints petg specifically high temperature petg the color fab xt it prints nylon beautifully right on the regular bed at least the tauman nylon and it prints carbon fiber reinforced nylon using blue tape and a little bit of glue stick well folks i hope you learned something today if you want to print these models head over to models.makewithtech.com and put in the model numbers of those individual models if you want to discuss this you can leave comments below or you can go to forum.makewithtech.com and as always thank you for watching please subscribe click on the bell all of that stuff and let's continue to learn things together

Channel: Make With Tech (MakeWithTech)

Views: 22,210

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Id: MaEjohCVS24

Length: 27min 43sec (1663 seconds)

Published: Fri May 06 2022