Bloc Summer Masters Semi-Finals | Bloc Summer Graz 2021

so so so easy god oh um foreign my name is david patterson and i'm here delighted he's the root center for blockhouse one of the routers in charge for the black summer uh female amazing hello good morning hello dave um and also very warm welcome to everyone who is watching us on the stream um yeah i'm excited we're a few minutes away from this start of this semi-final so um yeah i think we are ready yes it's a bit cooler morning um we are hopefully not going to have showers in the evening but we're going to be starting with the seven times there is meant to be 20 people in the semifinals but there is a and there are four of them there has been a problem with the sound here there is uh five also qualified athletes from the austrian masters where this leaves us in total with 29 candidates for the semi-finals we have been seeing a pretty tough qualifiers yesterday morning jacob were you expecting a little bit more few tops so was it perfect as you planned yeah um i i hope we will see some more tops now in the semi-final uh we didn't really know the level of all the competitors so we decided to go for a harder qualification round to see where we are at with the level and we made them slightly easier and yeah now we hope for more tops and the qualification around yesterday yes uh having competitors just like orian berton who has been already in a world cup podium or has climbed already 8c boulders and then you get some other competitors which have not yet made a podium the levels are so varied uh i guess it's really hard to set a level that suits for every word yeah you're right um i mean don't get me wrong everyone who's starting here is really strong but as you said there is some gaps in between we have people who already climbed in world cup finals as you said and then we have other people who are maybe not as experienced and then it's quite challenging to to find the right level but i hope it will work out we will see and then we have a pretty good panorama of the whole stage and the boulders look amazing to be honest like really good colors really stunning big volumes where you're going for bigger volumes due to any reason yeah i think they are always optically very pleasing and yeah we were also lucky to have a lot of good halls but let's focus on the athletes now yes we're going to start with the qualifieds from the austrian masters they will come in order of the ranking how they ended up in the masters then this will be followed by the qualified for the block 7 sessions and then we will start from the last to the strongest qualified from the yesterday's previous qualifier round for the block summers and there we have francisca and juan le corpos the actual winners of 2021 vlog uh the masters austrian masters and yeah could you explain a little bit there has not been previous observations on these boulders and they have five minutes to complete each boulder uh maybe you can describe us a little bit of men's one yeah so man's one starts with a dynamic move at least that's how how it's intended by the root setters and the idea is to swing onto this volume which is also marked as a starting position and then go to the two chips on the on the blue volume and then go directly to the next hold but here we can see annie spanning the first move pretty strong he already acknowledges the zone i believe that's his second or third try um yeah as you were saying this is more thought as a dynamic move but he's also one of the very taller competitors do you think a lot of people are going to be able to just span out and just stop the swing i don't think so or at least i hope so that not so many people will be able to do it as he did it but as you said yayani is really tall and also very good at these spent positions also in the qualification round he was able to to spend one or the other move where other athletes had to jump yes and what about the women we have here some sort of like dynamic uh toe catch at the beginning yeah that's it's intended as fancy did it right now really complex start with the demanding talk and now i think she will try to jump for the big hold yeah almost and francie almost noting the zone hold this is a very good hole where she's going to where she's jumping to in matters of a professional level yeah it's quite a good hold but the thing is you have hardly anything to to make the direction to the right it's only your toe and this tiny crimp for the right hand which we added yesterday in the evening to make it a bit more comfortable for the athletes and there we see januka going again for another good go no problem at the beginning of the boulder only six athletes are going to be able to qualify for tonight's evening the best six out of these 29 athletes will come at 20 hours austrian time fighting for the podium but they have to earn it and those balls are now give me uh they have been made a little bit easier as jack was saying but by any means means that they are easy boulders you have some people the best of austria and some international athletes joining today people like jennifer um and orianne berton and one minute 20 and i think johanna kapoor doesn't find another goal do you think he's dealing with a little bit of skill he has had uh three days already of really hard tough bouldering rounds yeah it could be um he already did the qualification of the austrian championships and then of course the semis and the finals and now it looked like he didn't fancy another goal maybe he thought that the top is just not possible for him in the remaining time and so he decided to quit on the boulder in such a strong level like he's he knows himself pretty well where to spare some energy for the next boulders it's the first boulder and it's not even like the final round so you probably want to save a little bit of skin and power for the next there is opticum and if anybody is new to the world of bouldering and bouldering competitions um we have to have four pieces of tape those are representing four limbs and you have to choose as you wish uh one piece of tape per one limp you have to control the start and every single attempt starts as soon as you leave the mat as soon as you don't have any contact point to the floor further on we have a zone hold this is the limitation with the green tape and the last hole is the top hole the top hole gets awarded the most important and then comes down to the zones here we have the next two athletes the local hero johanna fever who trains also at blockhouse with jakob can you explain a little bit about this girl yeah um i've been knowing hannah for a long time i think we got to train together when she was 12 years old um and she's very determined and it was great to see her progressing throughout the national stage onto the international stage and i'm excited to see what you can do on this problem yes i mean this is a perfect representation of a proper competition have such a strong international field like korean bertone and stacia gerson it's going to be quite interesting to see where the level of each athlete is and how everybody reads something and then we have on the left uh stefan scherz who qualified a second yesterday a third yesterday uh before yesterday sorry um nikolajnik decided not to join the competition and therefore he's gonna be second he was also in series uh less than a month ago trying biography so i think he's in a pretty top shape let's hope to see what he can do out of this boulder no top so far or any of men or women's first but he got really close in his first attempt he will be awarded the zone on the first attempt yeah we saw he could not spend the move instead he decided to jump for the two yellow chips and then he also had a hard time at the top section and he tried to go directly to the top uh which didn't look too far away so maybe he can do it like that i don't know such an easy position in the beginning this is the very complex start that jakob was explaining to us and hopefully we're going to see a little bit more a shiny start with this athlete who did a really good job um two days ago qualifying second was really tight but francie just looted on her own league and yeah still nevertheless a silver medal i'm an awesome performer from johannesburg the local hero from here graz yeah and i think at this point it's important to mention that the athletes have never seen these problems before so it can be quite tricky if you have a starting position like that with the mark with the tapes when you don't know how to fit into the position so we can see with johanna now she she's trying different different things and so far it hasn't worked out but yeah it's really hard to figure it out and i recommend to everyone if you want to see or feel on your own how these athletes feel then you can go to your local gym and set yourself a timer for five minutes and try to do a problem you've never seen before and it can be quite hard actually and johanna leaves the mods i think she was a little bit frustrated with this first boulder yeah probably deciding to skip it focus more on the problems that are to come there's still a lot of planning to do for the day and chevy chad's battling again with his upper section of the boulder you guys mentioned yesterday as i was talking a little bit with muta uh that the upper part was meant to be the easier part and the lower part was meant to be the harder part where we think the athletes actually having an easier start at the beginning um what do you think is you to that what do you think might be the reason yeah i think um it turns out to be just the other way around at least so far so they they have an easier time at the start and then they struggle at the top section but that's how it is sometimes with root setting you can never know how the athletes will climb on on the problems and yeah i think there are so many factors like temperature conditions the skin conditions of the athletes the mindset of course the shape so it's really hard to tell in advance which sections are going to be hard for the athletes and which are going to be easier jan was saying that when they set the folders for the austrian masters it was a lot cold a lot cooler than in the day that they had two times it was a harder and tougher round do you think this is the case today or is it quite okay we are having a little bit more shade than yesterday and there's a little bit of a breeze but still oh close now it got really really close and 10 seconds yeah talking about today's conditions do you think it's similar to the conditions when you were setting the boulders or you were inspecting in a bit of a cooler conditions i think the conditions are not so bad today we have a little bit of cloud covering here so the heat is bearable i would say the conditions were similar when we were setting so i think this should be all right and hata dominic here from vienna an athlete who retired this year from professional competition he just joined for fun qualified as third on the masters looking super strong and having uh probably the athlete who showed the most fun in the masters um he qualified directly for the semi-finals and let's see what nicola can do today and on the women's side we have leia kemp the young system for albert athlete where are your bets on the semi-finals here what do you think might be able to get to the podium i'll qualify for the next round there's only six athletes so i know it's not an easy job but where is your money yeah i think of course the favorites like stasha and orian i would bet on them but also fancy looks really strong i know that johanna can pull off a good performance if she has a good day and with the man i think there was tim one german guy who is leading after the qualification i didn't know him before but he climbed very well in in the qualification round and yeah then we of course also have andrew kaposh who is the reigning austrian champion um we have people like um dominic who is now on man's one as you said he retired officially from competition climbing but obviously he's still enjoying the stage and here we have a grass of boulder number two um starting with two really big squatter holes going to another two big blue square holes i have to say like personally the right blue squadron looked super super hot i'm really looking forward to see how these athletes can do the compression move because it looks savage to be honest um yeah maybe you can run us a little bit through what is the intended idea for these men's too yeah in men's too you start with these two black blobs and then the idea is to cross over with your left hand to the first blue blob and then go dynamically with your right hand to the second blue one to compress the two holes so pretty much the way annie tried to do it right now but with these problems it's also really hard to get the right level because sometimes if it's just a bit warmer or a bit more humid then the holes can feel completely different but maybe jani can can find a way to to unlock this first sequence yes yes and in problems like this where like the left part of the middle part of the of the wall it's also quite important you have to be quite fast right into into creating this pressure that jani just tried to do otherwise you're going to be completely out of the wall and and every second is just a centimeter further away from the wall but here we're seeing nikki from vienna looking pretty high up on the boulder not bad and francis sheldon pulled the number two this is a ball that you created quite a similar starting move as men's two but also on its own characteristics maybe you can run us a little bit through boulder number two for the female yeah i think she's on a very good way it's what she's trying is pretty much the intended beta so you start with a toe catch and then you need to be really explosive and quick and i found it to be very important to also hit the wall with the right foot to stop the momentum because the thing is the right green hole is quite good it's almost a jack but the left sloper is really bad so you need something to stop the momentum which carries you to the right uh and further on uh on the upper part of the volumes um what what is the intended here do you go with the left or with the right to the zone hold further up [Music] yeah that's it she did it perfectly now so now i would expect her to pump again with her left hand [Music] [Applause] looking really strong but it doesn't quite make it i'm 30 seconds i don't think it's gonna be enough but let's hope she does another try that was a great try from fancy um i would have expected her to bump again to the pink sloper and bring her right heel into the juggia hold into the juggia green hole and we're having some situation the judges just came to the march to have a look at the polls or something was explained by francisco hopefully it's not gonna get away on the competition in the way the competition and the athletes are going to be able to carry on there is also a black tape in between f2 and m2 can you please explain us why do you put a tape there not further on on the upper part of the wall yeah the black tape it somehow restricts the space that the athletes are allowed to use so the girls are not allowed to use this big blue blob which is on the left side of the black tape and similarly the um the boys are not allowed to [Music] to use the green hold on the right side of the tape okay and here we are having the root setters they're gonna be doing some funny job adjustments maybe there is a screw and hold uh there's a screw hole staking out and they have to remove it from the walls it could be dangerous that anybody gets injured and i believe that johanna fever is going to have to wait and she will be awarded the time that she just lost here with these different shirts not looking too far away and do you think this is a move that suits your hana fever quite well the older number two with this really dynamic uh the compressive yeah i think i think she can definitely do it if she finds the right momentum um yeah you just need to hit the sweet spot on these holes if you pull too much then you slip off and if you pull too little obviously you won't make it so yeah let's hope she she finds the sweet spot and we had four of the strongest uh route setters for these masters diegolic from germany followed by jakob his office sitting next to me commenting and guiding you through this competition this semi-finals followed by luca mutser uh english video and pretty strong athletes pretty strong route setters who are judging the level of those competitors not an easy task in times like these where the field is override um do you think you made this uh semi-final a little bit more jumpy or is it more about hard pulling there's a good variety of it i think it's quite quite useful of course so we have quite a lot of jumps and also the slab is more useful i would say in the sense that you have to stand on on volumes and not on small creams like like in the qualification yesterday there was one problem which i would consider to be quite old-school and andreas hoffa trying boulder number one uh on the men's section and we have material putzy from corinthia on women's number one right now the field is being led by juan lucas posh who caught a zone on the second try followed by stefan scherz i'm dominique hartel we got it on third and we just see and that's what we're falling down the atlas taking a little bit of a second to analyze again the boulders so far looks like a really tough round no many zones not many tops no tops at all yeah let's see if we can see a little bit more of color how is your your position right now are you nervous or you feel that it's going to be okay looking so far what we have seen um yeah so you're coming quite close here on on the on the jump um yeah you're right of course it looks a bit hard right now so um i hope that we will see some some more tops we haven't seen any so far [Music] yeah let's see do you normally expect the semi-fire semi-final round to be a little bit easier than the finals especially when you have to separate so many athletes i would say the other way around so i would say the semi-finals are usually the hardest round of a comp because you need to separate the six s climbers for the final and then in final it's also more about the show and of course you want pops and finals because um otherwise it's maybe not so interesting for the spectators really strong here but doesn't quite make it it falls down and eight seconds it's not gonna be enough he's gonna walk away but he got the zone also his fifth try so sitting currently in fourth position and this is the repetition of andres hoffer from puerto back jumping into the mat we're followed by julia fisher and florian klingler from tyrol do you think this is a problem that could suit florian being one of a very powerful athletes yes for sure so florian is a real powerhouse i think he's gonna enjoy this problem um i also know that he was injured and he couldn't train for quite a long time so it's going to be interesting how his shape is now after this injury and we also created a grasp of boulder number three uh pretty impressive dynamic move where you have to step on the volume and get a crimp um is it thought like this or do you think some people are gonna be able to trick the third boulder by the man yeah maybe annie is able to spend the move i don't know we saw on bowler number one that he's really good at spanning long moves but i think he's trying right now on his first try he tried to bring his left foot onto the volume and now he tried to press down with his right hand um and i think both are um good options so both ways work let's see which one he's going to fancy in his next one further on we see some crimps all the good creams are the bathrooms in terms of crimps not looking too bad but getting a lot of swing um do you think it's a bad option to go with the fudo as she's as he's doing with the with the palm press um i think it depends a bit on your [Applause] [Music] glory morphology florian klingler with a great performance on bowler number one you don't wanna danny making the zone on m3 [Applause] [Music] and falls in the last second but he still gets around 2 minutes 50 so enough time for this athlete i'm very strong from performing klinger we didn't see many athletes getting really comfortable to the top and he looked super smooth on his upper part yeah you're right he he just cruised it i would say but that's the thing sometimes if a problem suits you and if you're really strong as proud in klingon then you can make it look easy here we are also having a little bit of a grass of france is number three yeah can you explain us a little bit what is it so many big holes like where to start where to go yeah she's doing very well here come on fancy that's pretty much the intended fader actually one hand on the top are we gonna see the first female top not looking very comfortable what can she do better to get out of this position i think she will have to bring her right foot up or like oh wow that was a display of power from francis server the just top folder number three and diane looked really strong on the crims so far leading the female scoreboard it's francisca with the one and only top and in the man it's king la florian with the top on boulder number one here we see replay there you are looking so strong asking from some support from the audience wow leia looked really really close in that attempt and yani has this move dialed now on m3 let's hope he can pull off a top one minute left on the crimps again and so far no zones for the female apart from francis who got two zones one zone and one topic i believe two zones she got a zone on boulder number two no zone of bouldering with one on the top of boulder number three um [Music] we've seen also dominic having a little bit of we thought and yani will give it one last go you asked me about the crims before so i would say they are quite bad he's really strong of crimson still he has a hard time but maybe now come on johnny come on oh oh such a shame it's pretty cool that you see an athlete learning such a move a complex move like that and now not having any trouble with the first part still having to change and swap from a really fast dynamic move to really controlled and slow creepy movement um this is something that roots tend to do to swap from slow to fast yeah that's that's exactly what what the idea was with this problem so we wanted a quick dynamic movement at the beginning and then some proper pulling on crims and yeah so far it looked really well how yanny planted and such a shame that you couldn't couldn't finish it but let's see what stefan can do on this m3 problem and now the athlete from styria thomas love he was the winner from the block summer sessions and lena schlitz visa from syria who also qualified for the blockchain sessions on board number one how have you been dealing with skin you have had several rounds of setting and testing um and the days have not been the fresher here grass a lot of humidity a lot of sun heat yeah i think um tape has been an essential tool during the last days um almost all of us root setters have had taped fingertips because uh yeah as you said it's just really abrasive for the fingertips the settings wow we just saw john uh stefan schatz going for a different solution going for a shoulder press and looking really strong and doesn't quite get the upper part but hopefully we're going to be able to see again stefan schatz who looked super controlled in the first row yeah the the shoulder press is also an option and as i said i think it depends a bit on your morphology so if you're taller i i think it might be more comfortable to to go left hand to the crimp and throw your foot up and maybe the smaller athletes will fancy the shoulder press yeah do you think a shoulder press is going to be a little bit of a hard and more strength dependent solution rather than the foot on the top um i tried both ways and i think it's it's pretty much the same difficulty depending on what you prefer interesting and here we see johanna fabian boulder number three not quite reaching with height this boulder is this right squadron slope yeah the right quarter slope is really bad now stefan is again on the upper section so impressive the way he was doing taking a second to rest on johanna forever making some progress in bullet number three we're gonna be having today a lot of competition climbing we're starting today with the semi-final of the block masters this will be followed at five o'clock evening time by the youngsters the youth 16 finals and these will be having a grand finale at eight o'clock with the blog summer masters the female and the men finals here and here johanna fever moving again upwards with one minute 20 to go almost reach into the zone hold so far no zones for your hana fevers if she wants to stay quite high up she will have to get a zone at least would put in a really good position as chef and just looking really strong for the number three then we get a bit of a close-up shot and going for the one two it looks like his left foot is just not doing a lot against this volume maybe he would benefit for if he put the left foot on the starting hold and he can probably pull his whole body to the wall but i agree i think he had his left foot too far to the left um when we were trying it we were pretty much sitting on the right foothold and flagging with the left foot so by doing that you're more stable but of course it's easy to talk like that if we have the screen here it's all another wealth if you if you climb the problem for the first time true uh a flag is just a technique that jacob described and it's basically where if you're positioning your right foot into a foothold your left leg cuts behind your right foot and goes to the right just in order to stay in balance and create tension and here we have the next athletes uh eddie kokacha and maya cranberger from slovenia who has been also visiting bloghouse in the last month pretty young slovenian athlete let's see what she can do out of this all the slovenian athletes we're known to be really really strong um what is the main difference you see between the slovenians and the austrians you're also half a slovenian yes you also have been setting for some slovenian training camps what do you feel is the big difference when it comes to slovenians and austrians in terms of power coordination skills oh that's a tricky question i will think about it maybe let's focus on fancy in the meantime she's doing really well here on f4 [Music] wow so close i believe that was her first attempt in boulder number four yeah she i think it was her first goal and she did very well already had one hand on the on the top hold but couldn't secure the top unfortunately and this is the lambada for the first move yeah he tries the more dynamic version now and about your question i think it's hard to generalize the differences between the austrian climbers and the slovenian climbers but maybe one thing which is remarkable in the slovenian team is their team spirit so they always train together and you can feel that all the athletes push each other and that there is a very strong community feeling within the team and yeah of course there's also such a thing in austria but maybe it's not as strong as in slovenia i would say and there we see dominic carter having to go with boulder number three and francis shelly going for another go hopefully we're going to be able to see a little bit more and hopefully atop at the end fascist the only athlete with one top or a zone sits in currently in first position very strong very well climbed so far uh there's a to a texture so if you're seeing the holes that she's holding the black part has no friction and the blue part has friction and she's trying to utilize the blue part the black part which is quite impressive because it has no friction at all and maybe you can walk us through boulder number four in the men's section uh explaining to yesterday that is meant to be probably the hardest and most savage boulder maybe we can get a close shot out of boulder number four for the men yeah so man mansport is a classic modern slab where you need to stand on volumes and very sloppy footholds and also it's quite a complex problem so it's not obvious what to do i would say if you have never seen the problem before and yeah it was set by diegolic the german chief root setter and when when far running the problems i enjoyed this one most of all the problems i would say because it's just so technical and little changes in your position with your hips can can just unlock the sequence so now we saw yani he was a bit he looked a bit um too fast not not very focused maybe on on his feet and i think that's that's the crucial thing in this problem you really need to take your time and find the right position on these volumes [Music] and they are looking really strong here on board number three same as francis both on the really high upper part of the boulders [Music] let's see what leia can do out of this boulder she gonna power out like france did [Music] if she just creates a position with the right foot it would help her a lot with a really really high foothold requiring a lot of mobility [Applause] same solutions [Applause] on second position with one top and fancy one with one last go but i fear that she will run out of time yeah unfortunately yes and so far only tops on voldemort three on the women's side [Music] and coming another austrian from grads luca gasser who qualified from the block some sessions and on the women's side we have nina la also from syria she used to be more of a speed climber but recently has been a lot in blockhouse training i think she wanted to join for this competition and johanna is now on the fourth problem for the women facing this tricky jump to the right let's see how she will deal with it oh that was quite good already i think she just needs a bit more um momentum to the right and then she will stick it my tear pits are looking really strong almost holding on to the zone proud of it from the austrian athlete from koreans here we see him balding number three an athlete trying to get a little bit of shade under his heart fair just dealing with the heat the sun is just shining again making this whole field a lot warmer and lanes with boulder number two uh do you think being a taller athlete it's gonna be harder to keep a press on both the number two for the female and maybe the shorter outlets will be able to have a better pressing move being not so wide i would say it should even out so maybe the first section is a bit more comfortable if you're taller but then on the upper part it i think it's it's maybe a bit easier if you're smaller because you fit better into the whole problem on what to do but looking really strong hopefully we're going to see a top of the austrian local hero she's renowned to be a very technical and powerful climber unfortunately falls down and undressed over looking really strong almost sticking the palm press the whole square is filling with people people who are passing by friends coaches from different countries we're seeing a last day of saturday people have a lot more time and we're going to have a lot of spectators here today we had two days ago 1800 people here in graz the ambience and the arena was awesome how was it for you jacob to see a competition again with many people who are cheering i mean the whole armies is so different yeah it was really really great to see such a huge event in my hometown i think there has never been something like that in graz so it was awesome to see and johanna is now again facing this tricky mantle so close uh yeah can you explain what mantling is for people who are not so used to bouldering techniques yeah mantling is pretty much a movement where you have either one big hole for your hands and no feet and you try to get into a pressing position so that you can put your foot onto the hold where your hands are and then you would like to stand up on the hole that's usually the case in a slab or a mental can also be pushing movement over a lip of course we have no lips here on these artificial walls but on outdoor bowlers they are quite common i would say so it's usually the last part of a bowler to top it out to get on top of the boiler that's referred to as a mantle thanks a lot for explanation and we see johanna again on the upper part 25 seconds to go hopefully she's going to be able to get it up it would do her really well and unfortunate falls down and she looks a little bit devastated a little bit frustrated [Applause] unfortunately [Applause] another [Applause] but it's still a long strong applause from her flatmates and family welcome back on stage and we're going to be followed by cleveland street hut another graz athlete who qualified in the block summer sessions and also we're going to be able to see on the women's side lisa doc beckinger from lower austria would normally have 20 competitors but two to the cut we're gonna have 29 per section for men on per women due to the cut that was playing before due to the summer sessions on the austrian masters [Music] competitors got into this semi-final round and only six will be joining the finals tonight if you think yeah now we have florian klingle on m3 and i'm excited to see what he can do on this one after his stellar performance on all the one yes florian klingler from tyrol quite open to his boulder activities um we saw a post in his instagram he just built a net on top of a little uh stream of a river because he had a high ball and he didn't want to put the parts on the water so he built a little net it looked amazing but also really scary in a really high boulder and let's see what he can do out of boulder number three and here clemens from grass having a readable number one and so far on the women's we have francisca with one top and three zones followed by leia kemp with one top and one zone and matteo puts it with one zone on paulden number three and on the main side we have florence klinger leading the field with one top and two zones followed by stefan shares with two zones and you unlock a push by two zones the difference between them is that juan luca took six tries and stephen chase two four tries on to the zones and here we see the slovenian athlete maya secure in a proper start you have to hold a proper start and then you can keep on climbing uh the score system is pretty easy the timer who gets the most stops is the winner if two climbers get to the same amount of tops we will have to separate them with the number of zones that we got if the score is not clear yet we would have to go to the number of turns they do to complete the top and if push comes to shovel then we would have to separate them to the amount try as they took for the zone and it is still not clear we will have to go to countback but let's see what leia can do she's looking really strong going for a top of all the number four on the women's side no tops of arm this strong boulder as jacket describes she has to come from a pulling position to a present position and they are flying out with one minute thirty but looking really really close here probably the closest we have seen with francisco managed to secure a zone i think on m1 i believe so you have to utilize it you can just touch it and unfortunately slips down but the young athlete has enough time to complete it and now he knows he can reveal the sequence and maya just got on the corner of our eyes looking really close on this first position we have to press both not so many tops or zones in this strong field and clements going for another go on on folder number one we hear some slovian an ostrich [Music] 10 seconds to go and unfortunately falls down [Applause] they get awarded a really strong applause layer cam with one top and two zones sitting currently on second position and here on the female we see learning sorry i think we're having a little bit of a different learning here i believe yes she had an injury yesterday decided to stop but changed her mind and has come back he had a severe injury on her shoulder elbow and has been recovering this year yesterday she had a little bit of a tweak uh in qualifiers and was not going to join and i think she changed her mind and joined for the semi-final round i hope she can stay strong and on the man we have luka trumbik yeah he's from croatia and uh as far as i know he's also training the croatian youngsters so it's gonna be interesting how he does on this m1 [Music] yeah do you think uh coaches root centers have a little bit of a benefit rather than athletes who normally climbing are seeing and are studying movement a little bit more than the general athlete and general climber yeah maybe so a lot of coaches have a great understanding of movement and also as a root set that you need to have good understanding of the problems um but then on the other hand you usually have less time for training as a root setter or as a coach so evens out maybe but luca does really great here on m1 come on [Music] and here we are seeing number three choosing to brush those holes are getting quite a lot of chalk the athletes are renowned for using a lot of amount of chalk and the whole square is getting a little bit warmer the temperatures are rising hopefully the humidity is not going to be too crazy um and they're we're expecting a little bit of showers in the evening but hopefully they're going to give up and there's not going to be any showers having to delay or cancel any of our competitions my name is david patterson i'm here with jacob krestova the chief researcher for the masters for the women and for the mail a local hero also from graz uh chief rule center is dick i think so i'm just part of the team but yeah still it was an honor to set or ease an armor to set with these guys it's um kulik from germany the chief root center then ingo fields visa who used to be austrian national coach and it's now also coaching and fruit setting and then luca moojar a really strong route setter from slovenia who also sets a lot for the slovenian national team and now we see on on the women's problem number four it's matia i think she had a little bit of a hard time in the finals of of the austin championship but nevertheless she looks really strong and i think if she she can find the right position she will be able to do this jump oh yes yes no no with the jump secures the zone [Music] sitting on fourth position with a zone still many climbers to come but hopefully we're gonna be able to see her on finals i believe she was a little bit frustrated with her performance in the boulders to be honest really savage bosses not too many tops so far only important number three for the female and here we see luca gaston boulder number two one for one two also so far no zones on this boulder pretty difficult first movement and 25 seconds to go before we go into the next rotation and i have to admit i was wrong the round still seems to be really really hard as it looks now you're probably in finals with one top i would say but on the other hand we also have some international athletes coming like orian baton and funny bear so maybe they can show us some more tops and we have krieger jonas our athlete from graz coming to border number one and katya plasonic from corinthia she's also i believe a root setter in balderrama in corinthian in clarenfort and she will probably know a little bit about these coordinative moves and reading skills studying the border having a look it is very complex start the slovene athlete maya kamberger just brushed the poles and on empire we have florian klingler now i think it's fair to say that he prefers the more powerful problems but he's also a good slap climber so let's see if he can unlock this tricky traverse to the left followed by this um stand up on these red squadra volumes i mean it's a really really hard job to set the proper level of the athletes so if you make it too easy then everybody's going to be able to top it if you make it too hard nobody will top it but at the same time we want to have a semi-final hard round as jacob's this great we have to separate the climbers and then the final round is going to be a bit more of a show probably with a bit more tops and it's also hard to study sometimes the athletes because um the temperatures are changing day by day and it could be like really easy in one day and then the next day being 10 degrees a lot sunnier or just having no breeze and normal humidity it changes the whole atmosphere and the whole level of how hard the boulders are yeah that's right you're absolutely right about the conditions and stuff like that but still i think as a root setter we all aim for good rounds which means some tops but not too many and in this case maybe we have overcooked it just a little bit and then it's also about us to reflect on it and to make some adjustments on the on the final round and but that's that's how it goes in route setting sometimes the round works out perfectly and sometimes it turns out a little bit too hard or a little bit too easy yeah as i said we will learn from it for sure and adjust the finance a little bit so that we will have more tops and also for the austrian team and johannes kriegel on board number one a little bit frustrated he's on the taller side so he maybe he can spawn out like you're looking posh did a very young athlete who managed to top the slab yesterday in boulder number four and maya here on the f3 problem oh i i believe i saw some tape flying so maybe she struggles with her skin yes remember these athletes are not allowed to bleed and if they are bleeding they have to cover the fingertips the knees we had some athletes uh on the masters being having to wait for catastrophic to jump and run from one side of the corner of the stage to the other just bringing a tape because one of it was bleeding if a mariah was leaning on in the knee and she had to be stopped by the referee this is stopping the horse getting a lot of blood on top of them for hygiene purposes and maya looking so close so close to achieving the zone and euler fisher going for the jump looking a little bit short she needs to generate more momentum with the legs but 15 seconds it looks like a really short time maybe she's gonna be able to achieve the zone unfortunately no zone for julia fisher her last call of the rotation [Applause] and we get another croatian athlete uh on board number one we have here anya santini and on the man side we have paul heider from t rose we're still waiting for the chiron athlete to come out maybe there has been some sort of problem we don't know yet but hopefully he's going to be able to join us and luka gasser looking really strong he almost wanted to stick the first move on porter number three uh athlete from graz training a lot in blockhouse trained by thomas kolbacher i'm patrick summer and thomas on m4 is looking promising now this is probably the closest we have seen anybody standing on those volumes that's true oh now he slipped but i think that looked really really good for his first try and lena's looking also really strong on both number four yeah that's true he's making progress you got a zone let's see how she's gonna tackle this tricky final move and what makes it even trickier if you if you look at the top hold of of m sorry of f4 there's a shiny part which has no friction at all so you cannot really hold it and just the part which is not shiny has friction so this makes it even harder to secure this topple unfortunately we lose elena here but i think she has quite a lot of time left maybe she can figure it out [Music] [Applause] lucas gaza looking not far away but not quite coming with the right timing to the hold it's a not very hard blocked ball uh hold but it's blocked and you're going from a really long distance so you have to be really precise in your timing and where you're aiming and hopefully we're gonna see a little bit of a successful attempt right now he's quite of a dynamic climber and i think he likes all the crimps so he would be delighted with your boulder jacket yeah i hope so i know he's really strong on crims and it would be great if if we could see him on this upper section which is more slow pulling on crims because that's where he's really strong anything like a top or a zone would put him in a very very strong position so hopefully we're gonna see more of this athlete who's taking a little bit of a break now getting some energy a little bit of breath those are boulders where you can give a lot of tries but also every single try keeps a little bit of a breath out of you and you have to recover it's easy to keep on going keep on going but sometimes taking a little bit of a step back rethinking your your solutions letting your whole system calm down a little bit can be helpful sometimes and let's say luca gas again for another try on m3 this time looking really a lot closer he almost stuck the move as you said i think it's really important to keep calm and to take your time to prepare yourself mentally but also physically for each try because there's no point in trying over and over again that usually doesn't work yes we were seeing yesterday they are very young athletes the u12 giving a lot of goals and then the u14 youth 14 coming out and choosing to make every single attempt count a lot more they are already more experienced athletes which they have more also experience they they can manage a little bit better the time and every single try that they do they are prepared like you say mentally there's not just a physical game there's a lot about mental health a lot about technique and you want every single attempt to be counting the most of it yeah and lena is again on this last section of f4 oh that looked really good but unfortunately she can't unlock this last sequence and on the women's section we have the same podium so far francis trailer with one top and three zones followed by leo kemp with one top and two zones followed by materpati with only two zones and landscape wizard with one zone uh the difference between lena and johanna feber was the attempts they took each zone and on the men's we have florin klinger with a very strong first top of boulder number one followed by staffordshire with two zones and four tries and you unlock a porsche with two zones on six tries and the second croatian athlete on the women's side we have vana piccini yeah i think it's really cool to see the creations with more young athletes coming through um i think that the climbing there has a huge potential there's a lot of awesome rock climbing cracks in croatia so it's gonna be exciting to see which athletes are coming through from croatia in the future yes we were seeing yesterday um christian lightning the winning for the youth 14 who was this year trying a 9a in medvedev croatian crack and such a strong field such a young athlete with less than 14 years already trying nine a's let's hopefully see some successful achievements of this young athlete and clemens looking really strong here in boulder number three getting quite close and on the men's we have kevin ammon from lower austria he just got out of the camera and now we see him brushing those holes on the left side the wall is working on the right side you have a slab on the very right side with the slovenian maya is giving a try ball number four and as long as we move to the left the wall gets more overhanging uh i would say on the men's one we have around a 30 degree steep part of the wall and in the middle we get around the 20 degrees yeah that's right that's right the angle increases when you go from right to left and yeah i think it has been a trend throughout the last years that the competition was got less steep so roofs are getting more rare in this world cup and competition setting which is a good um good development in my opinion in my opinion because i i don't know roofs can get a bit boring sometimes and it's more interesting to set on these on these 30 degrees overhangs and still we have a lot of wooden volumes so if we want to create a steeper wall we can work with these wooden volumes yes i guess the competitions nowadays are not so much about pulling but more about creating movements where are unsecured where you have to commit or you have to be more coordinated and would you say that there is still a lot of power elements or it's just completely about coordination no i think there's definitely a huge power component still it's not it's just not as visible as before maybe but all these coordinative problems also require you to be very powerful and also explosive i would say that the modern style right now is a mixture of coordination and power so you need to be well coordinated and at the same time you need to be super powerful to be able to generate from the from these positions [Music] and there we saw a different approach from johannes kriegel on boulder number two she he did a tow hook on the left uh squadron hold and bumped with the left hand to the next blue squadron volume do you think this might be able to work yeah maybe i don't know he's quite tall so maybe he can make it work and he's going again for the tow hook method let's see wow that was really looking close but i think he's gonna be running out of time unfortunately no zone or top for this young athlete from kratz and on the next rotation we have alex attila and on the women's side we have the sister of the olympian who called the bronze medal jacob schubert we have here hannah schubert on the female side it's pretty interesting to see some of these athletes which are really famous when it comes to lead jumping between lead and bouldering and still performing such a so hard and so strongly in both fields do you think that nowadays it's just not enough to be good at one discipline you just have to be good at everything yeah i think especially with the younger athletes we see this a lot there's a lot of young guns who are really strong and bouldering but also strong in lead and sometimes also strong in speed so i think that's definitely the next generation climbers who are well-rounded and not just good in one discipline let's see what yeah hannah schubert can do out of this boulder choosing a little bit of a reed and lukaka choosing to brush the slab and zombo radix attila going for a dynamic move that was pretty much how you guys intended hopefully we're gonna be able to see the spectacular move being performed yeah i think we we had some starters from the uh who qualified through the the wild cards through this bouldering gem which took place six weeks before the event and we also had the starters from the finals from the austrian nationals and now we are basically in a normal semi-final mode which means that the strongest climbers will come out last so i think we should see at least the one or the other top with the next climbers coming hopefully we're gonna see that like jacob just described 29 athletes only six get into finals to date at eight o'clock here in the middle of the city of graz in madagascar we have a pretty beautiful day it's getting less sunny as the clouds are coming around this is probably quite nice for the athletes which don't get roasted on the mats we have a little bit of a view here from the schlossberg tower the iconic tower where i recommend anybody here in graz to go up there you can see the river moor which is separating the city between the east with the old town and the new part the west and you can also get a pretty good panoramic view of the whole city of graz here on the east side of austria anything that you can recommend to anybody who's here running grads jacob i mean it's pretty we we have the first a day um for lead in mixing it anybody who's a climber or anybody who's not a climber what do you recommend yeah i think the schlossberg is of course a very popular destination and um as you said we also have this first a day of austria it's called zeitgeist and it's located uh in a small or not so small actually in a rock climbing crack close to a small village called mixnits it's about i don't know 40 minutes drive by car from godz and if you're a climber then i would definitely recommend it it's pretty nice crack with a lot of awesome routes and even if you're not so much into climbing there's also some paths to to go hiking and i think it's a beautiful place so that's that's definitely a good recommendation for the nature lovers exactly if anybody wants to see green hills green meadows and the classic beautiful austrian scenery go where jacob told you you're going to get a good grasp out of it and now in summer is everything green and really beautiful so yes there's also some water a small waterfalls and a river if anybody france is a little bit of a refreshment quite cold water from the mountains but for now let's stay here in malachi square with the semi-final of the block masters my name is david patterson and i'm here delighted by the root center a jacob christopher a local root settling blockers giving us his insights and his intakes i'm pretty strong we saw here zombo radix attila yeah hungarian athlete made this jump now let's see if he can do the top section he has six seconds oh no oh my god it's heartbreaking when you see athletes getting to the top and not being able to stick the last move which would give them a really strong performance and really strong position uh but here we are getting thomas kolberger the trainer for the youth team on boulder number one he's also known for being quite a jumpy um and powerful climber and on the women's we have lena boyz from tyrol thomas been really really good encompassing moves he managed 169 on the blockhouse campus board how do you think for people who don't know so much about compassion is this a really strong achievement in your eyes yeah definitely it's super strong achievement um i don't know it i don't know how well it translates to climbing to be honest um because uh in climbing you need usually need to utilize your feet also but of course if you're able to do moves like one five nine and for non-climbers the campus board is a wooden board with rungs where you can pull and your feet are just dangling in the air and the rungs have numbers from one to nine so one five nine means pulling from the first rung to the fifth rung and then pulling through to the ninth rung and these campus boards are usually somehow standardized not completely but somehow so that's that's where this climber climber's terms come from and yeah i think if you can do these kind of moves you're definitely not lacking in the power department yeah those are benchmarks that we talked about and let's see that let's hope that thomas colbert gets top of boulder number one but jacob says this is a skill sport it's not just about strength you need you require mental power and technique power so [Music] let's see what these athletes have to say and have to do and thomas not reaching the sweet spot he was with the right hand on in between both holes actually trying to reach to the zone and clemens was not so bad on boulder number four on the on the men's section it was actually looking pretty close and that's the covet hole that we've explained before it's not too covered but it's so far away that you it it you have to still be quite precise coming from a lot lower yeah that's true it's it's not very narrow the the slot that you have to hit but still it messes a bit with your mind if you see that the hole is blocked and you have to jump to it and also it prevents the athletes from putting a heel hook when they do the upper section on the crimps is any other reason why you would block a hold um yeah we root setters we like to use blocker holes as i said to force the athletes to to be more precise and also to make holes wars or to prevent heel hooks heel hook is a technique where you put your heel onto a hold in order to put or to take some pressure off your hands um and yeah sometimes it's the root setting it's such a small margin so for example right now i regret a little bit that i blocked this hold it would have been better to not block it but that's how it is with root setting sometimes a small chip or a blocker hold can decide between a perfect folder or a bullet which is a little bit too hard a little bit too easy yeah thanks a lot for these instructions those are pretty essential information when it comes to root setting yeah thanks for your expertise for sure helping a lot of people understand making understanding this whole sport and how it works a lot better and let's see because we have 40 seconds left on the clock and clements is looking really handy on the slab let's hope he's not gonna be timed out at least the zone would put him really really in a strong position and unfortunately he's not going to be awarded the zone you have to utilize the zone you cannot just tap it or caress it you really need to utilize the hold and unfortunately clemens just went with his left hand and dubbed onto the hold we're following down we're going to have uh ben abel and on the women's side we have marie schoepfer frontero ben abel was an australian he looked really really strong one of the few athletes topping two boulders on the qualifiers so so uh we're seeing here an athlete on board number four trying to kind of like jump from the bottom do you think it's there it's not going to be working you have to jump for it um i don't think it's a real jump it's it's more like you put your left foot on the starting hole and then you need to stand up in a dynamic fashion then i think it should work now she managed to do it and that is a proper start four pieces taped control start and from there on you can move in the croatian athlete on board number three almost reach into the zone hold and zombo radix attila was trying to match on his first ride the lower part the right hold on board the number three i didn't think it worked and he just changed his method now and here we see nonetheless but ben able looking really strong [Applause] again and slips [Applause] out oh man he still has too many 30 but that doesn't look like a very easy holding he's just chalking it i think it probably was a little bit sweaty for everybody who fell down there we want a little bit of chalk on the holes but we don't want too much chalk on the holes both would result in less friction if there have no chalk at all they could feel slippery and they have too much chalk they would also feel a lot of slippery so you have to keep on brushing the holes if they're too wide and if they're too shiny a little bit of chalk would help especially in warm conditions but now there's a little bit of a breeze going around hopefully this is going to make a little bit of a nicer conditions for the athletes and we're going to be able to see my tops as jacob described the later the competition is taking place the stronger the athletes are getting for the qualifying round and we're going to be seeing people international climbers at the caliber of oriamiton of panichivet and stasha geo coming at the end sasha girl who qualified first very very strong performance from her we didn't see many tops but she was the athlete to get the most of the tops and ben is again at this upper section of m1 oh just flew again but he i think he has it dialed at least up to this hole so maybe he can pull off another go also thanks for everybody who is working keeping us up to date with the scores and the sound technicians and all this camera work there's a lot of people involved into a composition of this caliber a lot of work has been done and yeah not enough uh gratification is for these people thanks a lot um they're making you guys the viewers able to see what's going on here in graz so anybody who could not make it and here we see ben popping off this second to last hold of m1 the german athlete on board number one two german athletes so far i'm bored number one number two on the female side and here the croatian athlete we just saw an athlete trying to use one of the t-nut holes from the uh volume on bolton number three what are the rules involving t-nut holes and sticking your finger in those little t-nut holes yeah i think you're allowed to use the screw holes where the volume is attached to the wall but you're not allowed to use the t-nut holes which are on the surface of the volume and also in slabs you're not allowed to put your finger in one of the t-nut holes on the wall um and we see this trend of climbing walls without t-nut holes for example on the right side of this climbing wall where the f4 bowler is located this panel was added recently to this wall and now let's focus here on on philip kutovic on board number one looking really strong matching holes croatian athlete oh that looked really good so yeah i was just saying on more modern climbing walls at least for competitions we see this trend that there are no t-nuts at all because we root setters usually prefer the screw ones because then we can put the holes wherever we want yes we also saw some athletes international athletes like the american brook robert ii who used to step on the t-nut just to get some support is this something common that you see in climbers doing um to be honest i have seen this on the live streams and i was baffled i tried it myself it's really hard to [Music] apply any pressure and here ivana piccini looking really strong on f3 securing a zone this would bring her right up the scoreboard let's see how she tackles this upper section [Music] but yeah as you said i think this one zone will um definitely push her ranking up and here the creation athlete looking really strong on m1 [Music] [Applause] almost almost for this rotation and we see alma still trying to figure out the complex start of f1 bon appetit is sitting currently in fifth position due to coming back with johanna fever both have one zone [Music] and she managed to get to the zone again let's see how she progresses now [Applause] and now another zone on m3 [Applause] and enough time [Music] unfortunately not enough time but what a strong performance for this young athlete [Music] kevin amman from law austria and here the replay of the croatian athlete and now we welcome maxi lens to the stage on m1 he is originally from corinthia but he also trains very often in blockhouse in cards i think he's just 18 years old but already super strong so let's see what he can do i'm just running across the stage lisa won from low austria i think she didn't realize that she had to come out um do you feel that five minutes sometimes feels a little bit too short i mean we were talking yesterday with uh georg he feels like it's better to have observation in four minutes for him than five minutes but obviously um five minutes in observation feels like a a hell of a lot longer than four minutes um yeah i think maybe the biggest difference is that when there is an observation period like in finals that the athletes can discuss the problems together um and here in semifinals they can't do that so that's maybe the biggest difference and on m3 we have a really strong performance now and somebody just got a zone awarded really strong he did the first move very well and then almost stuck the crimps on the top section yeah i was explaining yesterday that some athletes can't benefit from um discussing some solutions because maybe they have no idea what's going on in the boulder and and sometimes they they cannot benefit and they can have their other competitors i think that's one thing that's very nice of this sport they know so um all this football there is a friendly competition where the best performer will do the better but they don't hide information from each other and this is pretty nice for any competitivity yeah that's true i think usually the climbers see it as a competition against the bowlers and not so much as a competition against the other climbers hey and max is at the zone now tackling this upper section on m1 i feel he's just really impressive athlete even when he's sagging really hard on his shoulders and he looks like he's gonna fall out he really keeps on the wall as we saw with mans one yesterday on the qualifiers and now the hungarian athlete is pulling on for another go unfortunately misses the blocked hole and about this course for the women we still have francisca on first place with one top and three zones then we have cam flea with one top and two zones followed by patsy matia with two zones and for the men the field is still being led by king loplorian followed by chad stefan and jan lucas and here we're seeing pretty good progression from the croatian athlete and poland number four same as maximilian boulder number one actually out i'm the croatian athlete looking very promising here but not quite sticking looking a bit frustrated 14 seconds are over for her and not gonna have a top on her last boulder pretty strong semi-final round we're having here in graz with the sun coming in and out sometimes feeling a little bit too warm sometimes feeling quite well and now we're having a phoebe vidiq and on the men's side we have elias weiler from tyrol yes elias was also part of the austrian national team and decided to retire i think one or two years ago maybe and now he's still taking part in some of the competitions and he's still super strong yeah do you think it's a good thing to maybe uh come back after having retired you have less pressure you just want to have fun so there's less going on your mind and you can focus them maybe you can ease a little bit and climb a little bit better than the other competitors who are just really wanting a podium and having to have a good season for themselves yeah of course i think it's it's easier to perform as a like recreational athlete or retired athlete because you don't have so much pressure and for example in last year's austrian nationals there were three athletes who are either retired um team athletes or just recreational or very strong climbers and this shows us that as you said sometimes it's easier to perform if you don't have that much pressure and thomas coverhead just trying to cheat polly number three grabbing a little bit of volume on the left to see if it works but i think he just realized it's it's bringing nothing he just has to commit for the move [Music] and looking really close tomorrow although number three we're seeing a pretty good effort on board number four from kevin ammon from lower austria who already secured the zone aboard the number three yeah and he also claimed very well on the slab in qualification um there was one slap to the right of the wall where the female's problem is right now and he made it look super easy so he might be a contender for this semi-finals lab now [Music] sitting currently in 13th position he really needs a zone for being able to get into the first six positions a zone would bring him already onto the first six positions i believe on fourth depending on his amount of tries and elevala pulling on for another go [Music] and the croatian athlete philipp kutovic looking really strong on board at number four we have seen many people reaching to the zone but not quite making it to the top hopefully she's gonna change that i think yeah i think that's vana actually but yeah she looks really good here on this mantle move let's see maybe she can unlock the sequence but she already has two zones now i believe [Music] people are going crazy cheering for this athlete a lot of support for vana and also for the austrian athlete on m4 and jumps out and you guys had a another um hold up on the top or do you just decided to go for a really really hard mountain um did you change the boulder at the top or was it always meant to be like that on f4 you mean on f4 yes f4 yeah i think it was always like that so yeah the mantle we climbed it with the left foot on the corner of the left two volumes and then a press pretty much as the girls are trying it's just really hard because you have to push your hips to the left and it's a bit counterintuitive maybe because the top hole is to the right and vana i think is currently sitting on sixth place if i saw it correctly on our scores yeah sixth place for her which is pretty good i would say with one zone on her third try [Music] so not a lot of tops and nonetheless zones will already bring you quite into finals and bring in now to the mods we have two more athletes jotan ben raven from israel and maya cancer from tyrol and the strong australian now on m3 ben abel let's see what he can't do the square is filling with people walking by and more coaches more friends cheering their team athletes quite a nice view the probably the the best as jacob described in terms of climbing venues here in marihife square an event that stuffed china was the main organizer the ceo from blockers and hopefully we're going to be able to see one more next year uh but for now let's focus on these years because there's a lot to go the day's not over it's just started and let's see what ben abel from australia can do pretty awesome to have an intercontinental competition going here in austria congrats yeah that's true especially in times like these and i think for the athletes is also nice because there haven't been many competitions during the last year obviously yeah now he tries a different version they look really good but the hand was not so precise into the covert holes and hopefully he's going to get another try where he can um be fasting rather than hold [Music] the cool thing about this round that we have seen so far is that there is no hole and no boulder being uh determinative when it comes to being too short this is always something really frustrating for short athletes where they cannot start a boulder or make a move due to the length of the spawn and this is not the case at all in this round of boulders so i would be really happy as a competitor and as a root setter myself it has to be something quite nice to see that people are not being split out because they left out because of the the widespread so congratulations jacob yeah thank you very much um we're trying to set in a way that's it's not equal but somehow doable for all mythologies which is sometimes really hard and yeah as you said i'm happy about this aspect of the round i think everyone can can do the problems no one is limited by by morphology um but then again it turns out the round turns out to be slightly too hard maybe so this is definitely something we need to consider but yeah we will do that for sure yeah we just saw the um the touring athlete maya clowns starting the ball though not many people have been able to start the second boulder the first ball of the women and she almost um achieved the zone let's see if she can get another good try she still has one minute 20 to go plenty of time and now she knows how it works pretty tricky toe catch maybe we can get a little bit of a view of the boulder number one as this young athlete almost got a zone a zone in the first boulder would bring you so much further unfortunately slips out but it's still one minute ago she looked like she hurt a little bit the knee hopefully it's not gonna be anything serious so [Applause] and i believe maya cleanser just walked out of the mats probably and sorry to interrupt you but ah the hungarian athlete just came super close on this move to the zone on m4 yes was looking the closest we have seen anybody clemens from kratz was also looking really good but so far no zones and no tops of building number four and we hope that the tyrone athlete didn't hurt herself and she can perform as well as she was doing she looked one of the strongest athletes actually in boulder number one and just jump into the maths game lucas schreiler from styria uh young athlete who is very well known here in graz he trained a lot of blockhouse just moved to salzburg with his girlfriend both climbers and flabby cohort just came to the mat also on board number one yes and lucas has been super strong during the last bouldering season he climbed several 8b bowlers and also broke some strength benchmarks for himself on the beastmaker fingerboard so let's see if this translates or how this translates to the competition bowlers and there we have a close shot of lucas not too far away and here we have alma best father from team germany on f3 trying to go to the zone here two zones would already bring you determining the number of attempts into the finals and two zones will also bring you quite into the semi-final into the final round for the man it's all determinated into the number of attempts and so far johanna fever and linus great visa still into the field but there's still many strong athletes to come out and finish their rotations and alma pulling on for another go now we see flavi from team france trying to figure out this difficult starting position on f1 i was looking really close for the croatian athlete on man number three all the athletes have had to shown um three g rule which we're having here in austria which is recovered um vaccinated or tested negative of course in english it doesn't translate as a 3g but in german it's a 3g and yeah quite well known rule and in terms of this it's really nice to see a competition but let's focus on the tyrone athlete looking really really strong here on board the number four for the women that was the counter-intuitive movement where she has to move her hips to the left and push with the right foot and looking really good fighting to the last moment which falls down yeah and i think you could see it very well she was so focused on the top hole that she tried to go straight up but that's i think much harder than if you push your hips to the left now we see it again if in this position if she had moved her body more to the left and she sits more on the left foot and has an easier time uh standing up but of course this is easily set now for me because i know how the baller works for her she sees the top hold and she wants to go directly to the top hold which is very natural for a climber i guess yes royce lena literal athlete looking really strong hopefully she's going to have enough time for sending the boulder i mean it's a boulder which is not a very long boulder but you still have to start a little bit slower and the jump is a little bit determinating because low percentage move then you have a pretty hard powerful ending so should be enough time but it's not a game as a boulder and we see loads of climbers just flying off to the mats and bruce lane is sitting currently on seventh position unfortunately she's not going to make it to the finals [Applause] and coming into the match from salzburg stefan rest and on the women's side we have valeria peroyte from for albert the mountain region of austria so we see all the athletes start by brushing the holes in order to enhance the friction and here we see a replay of lucas on m1 on the jump i think he missed the hold a little bit unfortunately and maxi going for the press version on m3 didn't look too far away so let's hope he can make it work i know that he has also been bouldering outdoors quite a bit so he's probably gonna fancy the crimps if he manages to get to this section and here is the australian athlete on the slab m4 yeah we have seen quite a lot now two to three athletes getting really close to the zone but not being able to hold it are you meant to be facing the crowd when you're going out or just like having a lot of flexibility in the on the shoulders um on m4 yes on m4 for now i don't think that you're gonna face the crowd it's more a stand-up press like a pistol squat will you stand with your left foot on the lowest of the three right volumes and then you just need to push really hard with your left foot and you also need to trust that you're not gonna sleep yes um you can explain us because maybe some people are thinking that this is a really big volume but there are three different volumes being more like a modular situation maybe you can explain if this is something that roots has used a lot after we see what the stefan rest does out of this first boulder let's see what stefan does here checking out this crimp now oh looking really close i think he was a bit confused maybe he wasted some energy by checking out the hold but he is still plenty of time left and about the three volumes it's actually three red separate holes on m4 and they can be combined to this arrow shape and i think this is also something we we see more and more in the climbing holes industry that the holes are manufactured in such a way that you can combine them in a visually appealing way but also in a way that makes sense climbing wise and i feel that's really nice because it looks good and yeah as i said it also makes sense for climbing which is really important as a route set that we don't like to focus only on on the visual aspect we also try to make it feel nice for the climbers exactly and let's see what maximilian can do from karanthia he's going another time launches to the hole that was looking really really close i think he's suffering a little bit with the skin he had many rounds he was already in the qualifiers and semi-finals into the austrian masters and had to qualify also yesterday in the morning yesterday was brutally warm and today again this is the fourth day of climbing a lot of rounds for this young athlete and another interesting detail maybe we see with the australian athlete he has a towel just in front of the bowler um some athletes bring a towel because the mats they get quite sturdy full of chalk and dust and if if this jog and dust stick to your climbing shoes then the grip decreases quite a bit so you cannot stand as well as with clean shoes so it's usually the seasoned competitors who bring their little towel in order to wipe off the dirt from their shoes to have slight advantage on sloppy footholds and 23 seconds i don't know if this is going to be enough for stephen rez from south book who looked really really close on one of his tries and bought the number one [Applause] and the next competitor will be emma tabernick from for albuquerque and on the main side we have max clay sutton and we just saw jumping out of boulder number four on the women's side yeah max looked super strong in the qualification round he's a german athlete i don't know him personally but i was very impressed by his climbing in the qualification round as we said we are getting more and more stronger athletes as the competition goes by the stronger ones qualified come last um and unfortunately many of the women athletes and the men athletes who are living in germany could not make it they were registered for the qualifiers but due to the german strike on the train system many competitors could not make it and therefore we have seen a lot less into the semi-final into the qualifying round coming now to the semi-final but still it's nice to see that some german athletes could make it and and are here today and qualified for the semi-final round um sorry what do you want to say jacob sorry i just got a bit excited because ili vila on m3 he tried to put the right heel into the starting jug and had his left hand on the big gray triangle and tried to mantle into the position but yeah it did not work and then he also tried once the dynamic approach i think he will stick to the dynamic way i believe yeah he's setting up himself for the jump not too bad i think he had the height it was more about accuracy yeah how how um important does it come in in the question of this movement to be high enough i think it's crucial if you manage to to get the height um and if you're also accurate then you do the move basically and here we see phoebe vidic i believe from vienna with a strong zone on f3 [Applause] that's a pretty impressive achievement many strong competitors who already came out [Music] couldn't get a zone in this boulder and she just got really strong [Applause] [Music] creating opposition she needs to roll over with the shoulder and falls out two minutes still to go enough time she's been already there impressed performance from the viennese athlete tv yeah definitely definitely and also about the straight arm or our height issue we were talking about before i think when you have to catch a hold one hand that makes a huge difference if your arm is completely straight or if you have a slight bend in the arm then it's much easier yes i remember an ifsc competition where we saw jakob should we try some really dynamic move to a halt and basically he defeated the rules of gravity and power that we're just explaining because the commenter was saying if you go with a straight arm it's pretty much impossible and then if you get it with a bend arm then you are able to generate a lot more force and control and stabilize your body and then jacob schubert just jumped with a straight arm and held and that was pretty impressive he is an absolute beast yeah and now again on f3 bb vidic let's see if she can unlock this top sequence looking strong one hand on the top hole [Applause] and that's it's the top green light from the judge and what a pretty impressive performance this would bring her right up on the scoreboard because so far only francesca got a top alongside not yet been granted onto our scoreboard but we know she topped it we just saw it we're just waiting for this scores to be actualized so we can tell you she's sitting on second or first position already three athletes stopped yeah really nice how she found her position into this press very impressive and jumping onto the mat we're gonna have now i believe uh max clear subtle i don't know i think max was before i think it's robin yeah true and afro honey from germany yeah and phoebe village is sitting in third position after leia kemp and francis stego so these are the third best positions each one with the top and zones only other with tops so far on the female side so and here we see maya clowner from tyrol for the number three brushing the holes yeah the difference between leia and village is that uh leia got two zones and village phoebe got one zone and francis got three zones and that's the big difference when it comes to splitting these climbers and sixth position sitting currently now lena's great visit with one zone on two tries mana pichiga on first position followed by lee kampf and tv village yeah i think this top by phoebe on f3 was super strong and it might secure her place in finals yes definitely especially coming uh really strong athletes like sandra melissa salunga oriented would bring you really way further and we're seeing here on m4 really strong performance from the corinthian athlete maxi looking really really really good here hopefully he's going to get granted a zombie falls down a little bit frustrated his young athlete and romain kievmail going for the dynamic approach and bulletin number one and here we see the israelian athlete i think it's been evan yottum on the jump of m3 yes and the ifsc youth competition that we had this year in blockhouse he looked one of the strongest in terms of strength i remember there was a whole some volumes and they were not meant to be handholds they were meant to be footholes and he down climbed through those holes that made his way around and the only athlete to climb those uh that boulder on a really different way so definitely not lacking on strength but as we said climbing is not just about strength there is a lot of to do and going for the heat hook method that we discussed before tonight is going to keep on trying it but uh looked pretty travash [Music] [Music] and we're running out of time and we're gonna be followed by the austrian from upper austria sandra leitner and living giver yeah also from israel i think he's the brother of ram levin who is also a accomplished competition climber i think he's his younger brother [Music] and the bells from the church running really really loud here cutting cross all the music [Music] it's 12 o'clock midday and we are here sitting watching the semi-final round for the block summers the back block summons grouts my name is david patterson and i'm here accompanied by jacob grasshopper one of the root setters in charge of this semi-final round and the blocks almost for the men and the women [Music] we're gonna be followed in the evening by the youngsters the youth 16 at five o'clock and then we will have a great final block summer masters for the male and the female at eight o'clock so plenty of competition to go for the day it's going to be all lively transmitted here for epic tv and [Music] the gratzel lucas goodwin going for another go and we're going to see maybe a top on women quality this is looking really promising for flabby cohort who flies out but still has three minutes 14 she's already been really high up there so i believe this is gonna be promising for her and then we see how hard she's having to press and pull between the slope and the crimp [Music] doesn't quite get enough high and flies out yeah that was an amazing effort by flabby and she is still plenty of time left so let's see if she can do this problem but i think it looked very promising and on m1 the strong israelian athlete i think he tried the very dynamic version now maybe he will also change to catching the two chips on the first volume he's definitely capable of doing it he claimed very strong in the qualification round and on m3 we see lucas scheilechner jumping for the blocked crimp now [Music] [Applause] it just looks like it just looked like um lucas was trying to just hold the cream with one hand and stick him there would be pretty impressive to see if he just held it with one hand and looking really really good on more than number four [Music] no worries but i think he knows what to do now sometimes you see by the reaction of the athletes when they fall down sometimes they look a bit clueless if they don't know what to do but with elias i had the feeling he knows what to do now yeah he saw his error immediately recognized and flavi pulls on for another go on f3 a french climber let's hope she can find her way to the top of this problem struggling with the slope but gets into the crimp has to change for palm yes [Music] unfortunately falls out and sandra let now walking away from the mars i believe with not a lot of points from the first boulder game 11 he's just a climber who tries until the last second such a strong competitor energetic and four athletes to go so far we have seen 25 competitors four to go miles pizza lunga the french female athlete she won the competition of the ifsc the european competition in clarkenfoot only one who topped the fourth boulder and she has been a few days training in blockhouse he was actually pretty impressive she was doing every single boulder first the second try yeah let's see what she can do out of this first boulder and on the men's side we have harrison campbell also from australia who looked amazingly strong on the qualifier round and alpha look really good on f2 on the green pink problem didn't look too far off with her first attempt miley's trying to decipher this cryptic start position on f1 yeah she was trying to see a little bit where her toe hook should be going to before let's see if she should change the limit the method she wants to go she looks a little bit puzzled now setting a heel hook changing the toe hook has to be so confusing where to start with something so far away from each other and capital harrison looking really strong on m1 wow that's utilizing the whole body in order to stay on the wall what was the idea of the last part of this ball the jacob we have seen many people being really confused on this menace one so how was the solution intended for the men's one yeah i think he went to this second to last crime with his left hand now and this is pretty much a dead end because then you can't really continue so the idea was to go there with your right hand and then continuing to the top hold with your left hand there you are now we can get a better view yeah so the idea is basically to grab this side pull with your left hand um so that you can the one which he's brushing now so that you can go to this crimp that he's brushing now with your right hand and then go quick to the top hold with your left hand that was the intended beta and aphronic from germany looking really close and closer as attempts to go by i think she's getting a little bit tired and also these holes are very rough they're really taking a lot of skin so i bet the best solution is to do it quick probably yeah god the australian athlete going again hopefully he has seen that he has reached a dead end as jacob was playing and he changed his idea [Music] one minute still to go looking very strong [Music] with his left hand to the crimp but unfortunately i fear it's really really hard to get out of this position and here we have the israelian athlete looking very strong on the slab it's incredible how fast these athletes can just climb the ball to the beginning it takes them a little bit of time then they figure it out and then they're just flying around um he's trying to set a knee bar but it i don't think it will work right the the knees the volume is just not good enough and the foot is very poor too yeah that's it and now coming here the famous and most prominent orian baton he the people are going crazy as she's coming into the mud and the local hero georg palmer he also trains in blockhouse can you tell us a little bit about this young man you're training together i believe yeah he's a good friend of mine we train a lot together climb a lot together he was really unfortunate at the world cup in innsbruck he had an injury there was an incident somebody accidentally jumped pretty much into his face with both knees and he had to get surgery but luckily nothing too serious happened and he's back on form now and i'm excited really excited to see him here on this set of hard problems yeah let's see if he can do really well he qualifies third pretty strong from him on that qualifying round and let's see if he can get it he's also root center and he knows quite well when he comes he just really perfectly and audi avatar almost established the start of all the number one f1 she's a very young competitor but she's already been climbing 8c boulders and has been on podiums in world cups and girl palmer has been in several youth competition podiums and already achieved 9a when it comes to lead and 8b flash when it comes to bouldering outdoors and let's see what these really strong indian competitors have to say on the first poses of their rotation remember that any top that you do in any of these boulders would automatically bring you into the first six qualifiers and on bowler 4 for the women we have flavi i guess from the french team [Music] it looked like she wanted to mantel on the right side uh completely ignoring the left part of these volumes do you think there's any chance of doing that maybe but i think it's really hard it's often tricky to say there's no chance of doing something but um yeah i think it's it's easier to go with the left foot on the on the left volume yeah when it comes to this level have you been surprised at the qualifier rounds or right now in the same final round unexpecting something that just happened some athlete climbing in some way that was completely yeah unexpected blowing the mind yeah we see this frequently that athletes find new solutions that we didn't anticipate for example georg palmer he found a cool solution for a jump in the qualification round yesterday he just jumped and then put his foot really quickly on the starting jug where your hand where his hands were basically and that was his way of unlocking the sequence and nobody of us rootsetters was thinking about it so yeah this happens very very often actually you have palma getting a lot of flaws and support and now he found it he's looking really happy [Applause] into the zone assange is bringing you quite happy higher scores but the top would bring him directly into the first [Applause] [Music] [Applause] m3 [Applause] uh the german max clearsattle first off from border number three to top and orion managed to establish the starting position 21 seconds to go i know people are going crazy oh it's going really fast and a lot is happening at the same time [Music] kieran needs to get quite fast six seconds to go so much tension here in the square and he's gonna be timed out i believe m3 but this is a little bit of a release to see that people are topping some of these balls which have not been uh topped yet yeah of course it's nice to see at least one top so that shows that the problem is possible i mean we know that they're possible but yeah as you say it's really nice to see at least someone on the top and tom's uh nimrod tunzenadi from team hungary and funny gibette uh a woman who doesn't need introduction but from the french team just jam into the mods for the first boulders and we have also piazza lunga on second boulder miles pizza and the australian athlete harrison campbell on boulder number two funny java just read perfectly the first start he just went jump there tried to get the toe catch pretty amazing a woman who's been many many times in podiums and just read it to the nail and just stuck the first move that put so many climbers away into her second try let's see if we can see a bit more out of this boulder if any of these of these women can get to the top then we would have seen perfect decisions and also the first zone into boulder number four that was a pretty hard fall slip out of this squatter volume but that was also the far we have seen anybody in this first poll though yeah super strong performance um by rest stefan i think uh he climbed super well i think it was even his first or second goal and he is still quite some time left so let's see what he can do on the upper part of the problem because i think now he knows what to do so i would hope that he can climb up to the zone again i mean is a border that requires a lot of like certainness movement and you have to be quite careful moving and adjusting to every single centimeter but he still has two mean of 30. so it should be plenty of time for him trying to jump and not getting enough elevation and funny again on the start of f1 really close pretty crazy that some athletes had no idea how to start at all on this first boulder and she just got into her second try and the hungarian athlete nimrod tonight looking very good and that's it and it's a top for him that's top on m1 [Applause] amazing [Applause] really strong and the field is being uh on the main led by max class other with his top and two zones followed by clean flooring i believe but we have to be still actualized what uh nimrod personality just did and i believe uh vanity versus slipped out on her his knee but nothing serious and another fall pretty high for from um chef and rest that was great i think that was in fact the first zone on this problem that we saw and then unfortunately i think his left foot popped off there we see he was doing it pretty much like you guys thought just very hard volumes to step on and financial hurt not making so much improvement as she did on her second go and miley spitzer doesn't fancy another goal as she walks out of the mats and there we see furniture hopefully a zone out of this boulder and she will not be awarded the zone unfortunately but that's the best we have seen and now on to the mods the best qualified athletes from the semi qualifying route team youth on the men and stasha gayo on the women the serbian who has been several times on the podiums let's see what she can do out of the first ball though if she tops it perfect job by the root setters who calculate it to the fingernail if not then that means it has been a little bit too hard but as we say with this athletes being so strong it's really hard to judge where the level is and on the second boulder we see now audi unbetton [Music] we just saw an impressive perfect measure of the israeli athlete gave a living come on so close and max in the slab also looking good almost making it to the zone hold on bowler number two we have this is the replay of gevalevin almost controlling it and obviously number two the local geopalma taking a little bit of a thought same as aliambaton those are the strongest athletes we have had in the qualifying round on board the number one for the women and the men there we see girl palmer almost sticking the move this is probably the closest shot we have seen anybody and stash again securing the start okay flying on this present move let's see we can see i'm really close to mustache again and geva on m3 pulling hard on the crimps [Music] he's a little bit of a shorter climber so maybe he really just needs to flag [Music] yeah i think if you have your left foot on on the gray volume it it pulls your body more to the left and then it's really hard to to do this match yeah you get it a band or movement where your body just wants to rotate and that's why jakob is playing a flag would be quite a useful tactic and useful technique to use right now and really strong position from the german athlete sam galen also making some progress on boulder number three anger going for a different sequence on pole the number two the people are cheering a lot of just manages to secure again the first start of folder number one she's been already to the zone but she needs to control it [Applause] so close to stickers much attention and give a living again on the top section of m3 yeah that looks better now that is the flag that we were talking about and looked a lot closer than before to be honest and team view there [Music] yes stop for the german the german athlete securing the top amazing we're seeing more tops as the climbers are coming out and also looking good on f3 that's a pretty impressive fall and no problem now for stacia gayle who's just firing really fast [Applause] and now yes first zone on board the number one for the women hopefully we're going to see a top let's flaws out impressive no all the climbing got so far on boulder number one unfortunately no top but at least we got the first zone and a little bit more of this first boulder of the women's section santa lena won for a coordination move trying again but not quite sticking the first dynamic move so no tops for poland number one on the women's side and funny giveaway coming to the second boulder i think this is the border probably which is going to suit her quite well um let's see what she can do out of this boulder pretty much every single athlete choosing to brush those holes more experienced athletes with more experience which tells them a lot how to react when they see a boulder of these conditions yeah i think the round has been going on for quite a while now so the chalk is accumulating on the halt and it's absolutely crucial to to brush them yeah is really going for a dynamic approach on the boulder number three she looked really close to sticking it as opposed to most of the other athletes that we have seen which chose to go to the first upper um squadron volume and then more statically to the zone she just went for both at the same time but it didn't look too bad hopefully she's gonna be able to stick it and funny brushing the holes on f2 taking a short rest this move at the start of f2 is really explosive so i think it's a good approach from her to take some rest to take some time to focus because if you try this move too many times with too little rest then you will just burn out and won't be able to to have a chance to do it and pretty impressive performance from francis cheryl who's still leading the head the field with one top and three zones this is followed by layer camp and on the men's we have max claire satel with the only man with two chops floorback florian klinger with one top and nimrod tunze with one top also and three zones in the third position two minutes and a half half of the time remaining and we're seeing a good movement on board number four but unfortunately falls down and we see miley's pulling on for another go let's see if she goes dynamically like before looks like she wants to go a bit more aesthetically it slips out and on m3 we see a good attempt by the australian athlete doesn't flag doesn't really fancy the flock [Music] he's trying to hook the volume and falls out and funny g-bed not getting enough height on her boulder name from tousnade going for the one-two looking closer and closer as the tries go by and as you said francis castella is still leading the field and i think her zone on f2 is getting more and more impressive when we see athletes like funny gibber and ariane berton not being able to reach this zone definitely definitely there we saw now libra of nadi having a loot reflecting how her his move was on board number two and m2 and again this trolling is looking really impressive going for a flag changing to the back step that looks pretty promising but then he would have to change the hand his feet for the shoulder move to the top and funny doesn't fuss another go and walks out of the mats 20 seconds to go miles per just got a zone but this is not enough she needs more if she wants to make it to the first six finalists of course she has not yet finished her rotation so anything can happen and for now we're going to see stacia taking a go on the second problem she has been so far the strongest athlete we have seen in the qualifiers and also now in the same is the only athlete who got a zone of boulder number one and team feather who was the top four uh bought the number one of the men looking very very strong all the athletes choosing to brush and have a read let's see what georg palmer can do out of this boulder quite a coordinative athlete friends and colleagues are cheering him and almost sticking with the palm press the first move and here comes sasha guillot on the first position she's a little bit bigger athlete and looking really close on her first try on baldwin number two and go changing really fast his approach going for the toe on the volume pretty versatile solutions and oria baton is flying out as she was for one two and sorry i'm cleaning the holes also rushing the starting jack of m3 and stash i think also taking her time the square is almost filled now with people choosing to see their climbing heroes hearing rats a perfect opportunity for anybody around in such a strong international field and sandra ledna here making really high progress on boulder number four we have not seen any top so far as if she can make a change into that [Music] impressive the people are going crazy she's looking really strong pressing against with the right hand and only amazon crimp in the edge i believe that's not going to be pretty good for her and there was a replay replay really strong effort by sandra letna and sasha geo almost getting it and shouting a common i think it's great that she never hides her emotions it's really cool for the crowd to see when she's angry when she's happy let's hope she can unlock the sequence yes i think also she's one of a really powerful climber if somebody can do it it's definitely her she's looking stronger than ever and let's see if she can tops it and really strong effort come on that's for sure [Music] and sasha pulling on for another go but unfortunately she kind of amberton looks really close sorry to the robbie looks really really close [Applause] wow one hand on the top hold but she needs to match the top hold with her second hand this is getting tight and tired she's gonna go for the powerful way and that's it secure at the top [Applause] i think that was pretty rooted for her right shoulder yeah but she is really happy that she dumped it and sasha are looking pretty frustrated [Music] i think she's gonna go one one more time for another go that's the replay from orian baton [Applause] walks out of the mat a little bit frustrated as almost okay palmer crashes down so no tops on boulder number two jacob said a pretty impressive performance from francisco who got awarded the zone being the first athlete to come out of the match under the sun heat and still perform so well she looked definitely on her own league in the masses in the austrian masters i'm still the best athlete we have seen with one top and three zones on this semi-final round through the semifinal round of the master series yeah you're right fancy looked super strong on the austrian nationals and also now in this round she still leading the field which is pretty impressive i would say now we have funny gibear on f3 cleaning the halt and the hungarian athletes on m3 so now the first three positions of the women they all got a top awarded and that was oriambiton having topped the third boulder and also francis having third top of the third holder the difference between them is the amount of zones that they got but this still has to keep going because orion has not finished her rotation but leia can't have got two zones and francis got three zones ori aberton got one top and one zone there's the third boulder and let's see what she can do on the next boulder once you come back and team visa he goes for palm press and sticks it out that was perfectly measured [Music] now on the top section with the small crimps the skins is getting quite sweaty right now yeah but that's the thing that i was talking about when you have your left foot on the big gray volume and you do the move then the left foot starts swinging and it really pulls you out of the wall and then we see miles pizza lunga starting on her last boulder the f fear still unreached to the top you have seen many athletes touching the top hole with one hand but it's not enough you need to control it with both hands on the top to be awarded a top and let's see that the next athletes have to say only four athletes to go miles pearson have been one of them followed by oriental funny giveaways and funny now in the third boulder making some progress almost getting the zone that would be also quite hard because uh the whole body wants to go to the right so you need some kind of a position with your left hand uh to keep you on the right on the left side no problem strong strong on the first move he just needs to get to the top and almost holding the top holes amazing performance from the um german athlete max who matched the top third boulder yeah this was super strong by max and funny securing the zone on f3 [Music] let's see if she can figure out this hard press section of f3 which follows after the zone [Applause] [Music] oh she goes for undercross but now she changes her hands she's also one of the athletes choosing the two heel hooks the left uh start hold and going for a tapping with this with the edge of her foot and the last second she's not going to be award the top but she got a zone hopefully she's going to find more on the last ball that she's also one of um a very flexible and mobile person so maybe she's going to have it better on the fourth boulder let's see what now shasha has to say about this boulder yeah and to the right of starship we have palmer on the slab m4 and i know that he's a very technical climber he usually enjoys the slabs so he might like this boiler let's see yeah he was one of the athletes last year on the austrian summer series who got a podium just because of the slavs not just because of the last but this was quite decessive um he was the only athlete to top the first boulder and got a podium so hopefully this is going to be quite good for him and he's going to be able to get a top on board number four yeah and tim coming really close on m3 got the zone and then fell on the second to last move we just saw oriamberton flying around getting the zone hold kirk is looking pretty comfortable and orian common [Applause] and there you are the first stop of the fourth raider from oriambaton an amazing achievement we saw so far 26 athletes flying out and she just managed to top it amazing and with her own solution also wow that was team going for a cross to the to the crimp yeah really impressive top by orian i know that she climbs also a lot in fontainebleau very famous bouldering area in france which is also quite well known for its difficult mantles so maybe her mantling skills came in handy here on this m4 problem i'm super happy for her and it's also cool that we could see a top on this on this problem yes definitely she's now for sure leading the field with the only athlete to have top two boulders this would put her competitor francisco on second position and georg here [Music] and then we have oriambiton two tops and two zones in four attempts leading the field on the women's section and tim again on the upper section of this m3 and georg is taking his time to clean his shoes i believe or maybe he's doing a shoe change i cannot tell from this angle i think he's going for a shoe change yes sasha girl looking strong here [Music] really strong by stacia being one of the bigger and taller athletes coming to the position is going to be hard but reaching once she reached the position she has she would have it probably a lot more comfortable but there's a kind of a quenched position for her because there is more leverage and tim again on this crimpy section oh no yeah the top by max clearsattle super impressive getting more and more impressive the more climbers we see on this problem people cheering girl got his last minute on this rotation he got a zone on boulder number one um but couldn't quite make it to golden number two number three let's hope he makes amends on the fourth on the fourth boulder [Music] [Music] goes for another go with 24 seconds to go pressing really hard that's the top though i think she can't believe it she just managed to achieve it on the last 15 seconds impressive from sasha gayle and georg i think he's going to be awarded that zone and here we go let's see what the what the referees have to say here we see the replay of starship matching the top hold of women's number three and sasha just jumped into fourth position with one top and two zones and franchived going now for the fourth boulder same as nimrod is naughty hey and i think obama has not been awarded the last one but he's not been actualized yet he has one zone on the first boulder and let's see what the scores have to say about the fourth ball though funny starting on the proper position [Music] and she sticks the jump with style that is some power contact strength for you guys as good as it gets [Music] she's trying to figure out the right method for her she's going for the left foot on on the lower part of the volume looking really good and now she only needs to match and that's that method really strong this was actually the the way how we uh intended the problem with the left foot on the on the left volume um very impressive that funny could figure it out so quickly and we just been uh actualized that george palmer did not get this zone important number four awarded but let's see again the awesome replay from financial aid wow look at that her left hand slips and she still manages to hold on to your fingers small cream braille that's perfect display of her contact strength i guess and then we see some amazing reading skills she was the only athlete to read it exactly like you guys planned pretty satisfied also second athlete with two tops i believe sorry with one top and two zones because she didn't top the border number three still leading the top of the board with third position okay let's see if we can see a little bit more of this fourth boulder so far no tops just a zone yeah i think he's alone on the wall now still one minute 30 left for him so we are approaching the end of this semi-final round which was brutally hard i guess for the athletes and it was a little bit of a close shot from orianne looking really happy with your performance yeah i i think two tops in this round was a statement and yeah for sure there is a lot to take away for us root setters from this round that's a ground applause name brothers as he approaches his last holder of today semi-final round he's currently sitting in second position so we know that he's going to be in the finals but of course another top would be an awesome thing to have for this young athlete from hungary if you are watching us we are here in graz in mario hippo square in the middle of graz um and this is not gonna be over we're gonna have a little bit of a break in the midday that we're gonna be followed by the youth finals they had a qualifying round this morning in boulder club and we will see the men and women final at five o'clock austrian time this will be followed by the final block summer masters female male hearing grads in this epic venue by the backwoods plus summer last athletes on the mats [Music] sorry the last five minutes already so now this is the last rotation stache geo on the fourth women's problem and team from germany on the men's slab who's currently studying in germany training a lot [Music] looking really close here and slips out of the top but she has almost four minutes to complete this border analyzing what happened and that's what what i mentioned before about sasha you can really see her emotions you can see when she's thinking and it's really awesome for the spectators i guess and tim pulling on for another go on the man's slab remember from all these 29 athletes only six get to go to the final round today as eight o'clock here it's going to be live we transmitted from epic tv so don't go away and join us tonight for the biggest event that grass has ever seen into a climbing scenery no problem again on the first move yeah the jump is really no issue for her let's see how she tackles this last mental section changing now from [Music] pushing with two fingers this is looking really good for the athlete come on sasha and that's the top first again another top impressive last three athletes to complete the last boulder yeah here we see the replay pushing down on this cream braille with just two fingers that shows you how much crimping strength these athletes have and now she's the only one to come have completed two tops and three zones so she's sitting now on first position followed by orian bertone and francis scherer from austria an amazing performance from this serbian athlete but for now let's see what team video has to say he has still 1 minute 30 on the clock and one minute left for tim a zone would be already worth quite a lot i guess let's see if he can do it oh slipping on the black volumes i think it's also hard because now so many people have climbed on this problem especially on the starting position so the volumes won't be as as grippy as they have been looking at the woman's side we thought that it's going to be really really hard and it's really really hard haven't seen already two tops and three zones for the best athlete do you think you're gonna make it a lot easier for the women or you're going to stay with the same approach same difficulty yeah so definitely this round was a little bit too hard in my opinion and we need to learn from it we will try to adjust the finals such that we will have more tops for a good show that's what we will have to do in the afternoon i guess sounds amazing well that was everything for the semi-final round thanks a lot for joining me jacob it's been a pleasure having you here and giving you us your insight um yeah thanks a lot i hope that the final round was really good and that with so many tops yeah and all the best thank you thank you very much it was a an honor to be here and i hope that people like the insides yeah i enjoy it every minute thank you bye and those were the words from jacob christopher the local root center here from graz setting for this master series and here we get the scoreboard those are the six athletes we're going to see the serbian leading the field the sasha girl followed by the french auriemberton the austrian master francisco followed by fanny jivette on fourth position leia kemp on fifth position and vivi village from vienna on sixth position [Music] man we're gonna be able to see also the six best positions are these 29 athletes who fought really well on a very really hard set of holders that we have seen for this multiplication round and leading the field max classical who was the only one with one top and three zones followed by the hungarian nimrod tunze nadi on third position team vietnam who unfortunately couldn't get the top on the fourth boulder uh followed by their very strong athlete from tyrol lauren klinger and stefan rest on fifth position and stefan shares on sixth position all of them will be competing tonight at eight but before we will have the youth sixteen at five o'clock for the final of the men and the women please come back and join us for these awesome afternoon of qualification uh of finals of climbing finals here in graz in madison square this was everything for the morning and we will be back at 7 00 at 5 00 for these awesome finals thanks a lot my name is david parson [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: EpicTV

Views: 11,878

Rating: 4.875 out of 5

Keywords: Austrian Climbing Summer Series - Women's Final, Innsbruck, climbing, bouldering, jessica pilz, jakobschubert, climbing competition, ifsc, austrian climbing, live climbing action, live climbing comp, indoor bouldering

Id: WfAkFoNfu-E

Length: 190min 50sec (11450 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 14 2021