IFSC World Cup Briançon 2021 || Lead finals

foreign foreign foreign now me me [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] hello and welcome to the ifsc lead world cup in brian france a climbing wall tonight well it's steep intimidating and the perfect place for eight women and eight men to compete for a place on the podium we've got a packed night of competition climbing ahead of us so settle in for a spectacle my name is matt groom and i'm lucky to be joined by sebastian helenka in the commentary box sebastian hello how are you doing today hey matt it's really nice to be here with you and thank you for having me it's cool to be back and well let's see how it's going absolute pleasure to have you and we're looking at our lead wall there two roots the men's on the right and the women's on the left let's have a look at the highlights from the semi-final round to work out how our athletes got to this position sasha layman well what else can you say about this man he's determined he's relentless and he's certainly one of the best on the circuit he battled this tricky semi-finals route this hard crossover move near the top but paid to him this slap out to the dish not enough for the top but enough for a finals place for sasha layman martin stranic well it's great to see him back in the finals will he be getting his second medal in a week after that bronze in chamonix and dimitri fakirianov absolute beast look at that finger strength as he forced his way up through that slope just missing the slap for the top and on the left of your screen sean bailey from the usa super chilled super super good at the moment on a run of form i've seen him win multiple medals and he's certainly one of the favorites here tonight in brienne's song stefano giselfie well a true legend of our sport doesn't matter if he's climbing outdoors indoors he'll give it absolutely everything and he almost topped out last night before dropping that final jump up and if you were wondering well that's hannes puman we missed him last night during the semi-final around a very early slip that wasn't caught by our cameras those of you who are asking that's what happened to him so sebastian looking at our oh we'll check out the women's first actually while we're about it so that's alexandra cover she's just 16. one of the most exciting climbers to watch she has this style that's so intense she made the pop to the top stick and look how excited she was to clip those chains as dusk sat on brian's song last night ashima shirishi well absolute calmness from her composed strong determined of course she topped out with a final popped on the top which she controlled beautifully clipping the chains in an almost well relaxed style i'd say as she waves to the crowd vita lucan what a machine she is she'll be giving it her all here tonight in brienne's song she fought her way through that boulder problem in the final third of the women's route pop for the top for her and another athlete to clip the chains last night during our semi-finals [Applause] well lucha karakovitz using her extreme flexibility and strength to get herself through this route she made easy work of that boulder problem you can see heel hooking scrubbing with the knees and she topped out in absolute style for her finals play she qualified in second for tonight's women's final and finally natalia grossman well another athlete on a run of form surely a favorite for the podium place tonight if not the gold medal will natalia grossman deliver once again for team usa so that's our top eight women making it through here tonight we're starting with the men and sebastian looking at those top eight contenders i mean some big names out there competing today yeah that's for sure i mean you know you have already mentioned stefano gizolfi sean bailey who has won twice in the last two competitions actually and it's been impressive to see how he actually got like on the stage again because the years before he hasn't been always that consistently strong but this year winning in bouldering and whale and now two lead world cups it's impressive i think he's really in the flow but i mean also sasha lehmann you know like he has already won i think two years ago actually in villarre and it's i think i mean i remember him from quite a few years ago and he's been already strong in that time a very talented climber and i think he always has the potential to be in podium for sure well now athletes are being announced right now alberto gina's lopez there he is i actually can't believe he's here he's got an olympic games to go and compete in in a few days so really leaving it down to the wire yeah he has got a really tough program i think he has been doing so many competitions already this year even competing in the youth circuit it's a tough program wow i i couldn't imagine to do this without being completely exhausted by now i am already well we're talking about sacha layman just now there he is in that red jumper always a firm crowd favorite it'd be great to see him winning gold again his last win in 2019 in villa so he's due another one martin stranick in a competition at the moment it seems to be dominated by 18 year olds that man is 31 a veteran and it's so exciting to see him it's really exciting to see him i mean he has been already competing for so many years and for some years he has almost kind of disappeared you didn't get to see a lot of him and now he's back in the circuit and back in lead competitions well another man who's back is that man dimitri fakarian of so strong oh yeah impressively strong i've trained together with him for several weeks just before the world championship in 2016 in paris and it's been such a cool thing to be climbing with him because he's a very calm really relaxed guy if you're training with him he's not competitive at all i mean it's been a very nice atmosphere i wouldn't expect to be directly training with a very big rival just before such a big event but it has been so relaxed and such a nice time well we just saw sean bailey walk out onto the stage and he's joined by a final male athlete stefano giselfie no stranger to a podium that man occasionally perhaps not performing as he'd want but a firm favorite for tonight you wouldn't bet against that man so that's our men's finalists they now leave the stage they did have a look at the route earlier on this evening [Applause] and they exit and you can see a packed crowd here in brielle and it's nice to have a crowd back is this oh yeah oh yeah it's amazing because competing without the crowd it feels so weird like you don't really feel as if you were in a competition but you are in a competition and you have to perform but it feels kind of like in like some kind of qualification competition from from a team training where you know you have to perform but it doesn't really feel like a comp because there's no crowd and you don't have this atmosphere so with the crowd again it's so nice and especially the crowd in chamonix and brian is to be honest always the best of the year right we're watching now the root observation phil earlier on we're just showing a little replay of this this is the athlete's moment to check out this route and if you're new to sport climbing perhaps you're joining us and we'll explain the rules as we go along but the route is an on-site format so the athletes don't know how to climb it but they do get an opportunity to look at it and sebastian this moment we're watching now is so important yeah i would say it's the crucial moment actually before you climb because you've got six minutes time to check everything to try to find every sneaky little detail of the route and six minutes it's not a lot of time actually if you have never seen the route before and quite often you're not standing in an ideal angle as you can see the stage here you're not having that much space i mean you can walk down the stage and then you still have a little bit more space but often the angle is way better if you have the chance to move a little bit further away or a bit further to the side so in six minutes time watching a whole route especially with plenty of volumes a lot of dual texture holes it's it's not so easy it's not so simple to recognize all the beta and yeah if you're having like the abilities to memorize a whole route it's a hewlett when a whole a huge advantage because then back in isolation you can still think of the route and try to figure out some more beta well that is our eight athletes joining us fediat samolev will he'll be out first having qualified in last place from the semi-finals and stefano gisolfi he'll be out last having qualified in first place from the semi-finals so there's always some exciting action to come at the end of the comp but it doesn't always matter i mean i remember in innsbruck stefano came out i think first or second he came second so don't expect the first people out not to podium it might happen yeah it totally doesn't matter i mean i remember my first final that i ever had in a world cup in germany that was back in 2015 and i was out first and i nearly topped the route and i actually just fell because my hand slipped my right hand slipped and everybody thought including myself okay the final route is way too easy but it wasn't and at the end i ended on the podium i was third place and actually in this competition i can tell close to win so it really doesn't matter if you're climbing first or last anything can happen in the final round it can't indeed and that's what we cannot wait for the atmosphere has been building all day the spectators filter into our arena night starts to set on brian and actually absolutely poured of rain about 15 minutes ago but luckily it stopped and the wall has stayed dry oh yes luckily i've been actually walking here through the rain right there is fed here some love from the ukraine as he is our first athlete to climb he just takes a moment to remember this route remember the athletes did see it quite a few minutes ago now he's 24 [Music] and it's great to have him competing here today his last semi-finals was in japan 2019 and his last podium was 2018 during the world university championship so he's looking for his first lead medal at least yeah i'm curious what he's going to do because i know that he's a very strong climber he has been already strong years ago but somehow it never really came together well for him but i think he has a lot of potential his physical abilities are enormously and yeah he really deserves to climb in this final here and i'm curious to see how he's going to do so we start off our men's final this first section lots of dual textured holds although the root setters have set it so the athletes are mainly going to be standing on those black screw-ons you can see he puts his right foot on it that graphic on the left that's our wall the top being the top the start being the start the athletes ideally they're trying to climb all the way to the top of the wall for the maximum score if they can't manage that they get points for every hold they get to the athlete with the highest number of points wins the competition that's the basics if you're new to sport climbing as we watch federer dynoing out this first little pop and that's always a moment isn't it yeah that's for sure i mean i was watching the route just a few minutes ago and i thought i'm curious how this section is meant to be climbed i mean i knew that it was going to be a double dino but i was not actually exactly sure from which holes he would jump there but he looked pretty relaxed on this jump so it seems to be like a little bit like obviously it's always a bit sketchy to have a double dino in a final route but it seems to be quite okay he looked pretty composed he's now entering this pipe section of the route and something the route certainly was telling me is just how hard this section is to read and of course we know these athletes don't really know how to climb this route they're using their knowledge to work out as they go along and what they saw in the observation period but it is all new to them at this point yeah yeah now with the first part oh yeah that looks really interesting because i believe that in this part there are several options that you have got how you could climb the sequence that's actually the way i read it too to do it but in theory you could maybe even do it differently but i'm curious to see if some other so if some other athletes are going to have a different approach to this one oh yeah but especially the volumes they make a root very three-dimensional they do and the root setters did design this section 2b feet first that's the method they think the athletes should use so we've got three minutes 51 seconds on the clock the athletes have six minutes in order to climb this route so do keep an eye on that because sometimes these routes can be a little tricky to compete in the time you'll see the athletes speeding up yeah and i would expect that now the route actually becomes a little bit more physical like the first part has been more like a kind of introduction a little bit of an awkward movement the feet first part a little bit tricky to read but i think now it becomes a bit more athletic as well and these especially these underclings they're they're very power demanding and they're going to suck the energy out of your biceps and energy is what they're going to need because we're entering this compression section where the athlete's going gonna have to use so much muscle and physicality in order to get through it yeah absolutely and these pinches they're a bit tricky as their dual texture so your the friction is a lot worse than is as if it was just a normal pinch where you've got friction and everywhere you can see it's shining in the lights that's a slippery bit the black bit is the bit with some friction on it but even that's not particularly good meanwhile feather it well he slaps out to that little crimp underneath the volume and now tries for a high heel hook of a very small hold always risky oh yeah but he still looks quite composed i mean like he is already quite high up on the wall and he doesn't seem to be too popular i think now it's getting tougher and tougher and now you can slowly also see that he does get a little bit tired but still he always finds a little position to rest and also that's one of his great abilities as a climber he has got plenty of endurance and whenever he finds a tiny position where he can relax a little bit he's going to use it and he's re regaining a lot of strength in that yeah very powerful this part as he wraps himself around that yellow volume there is look at this flexibility it's crazy isn't it a left heel really pressed in trying to get all the rubber and he's fumbling this clip at the moment you can see fingertips just out of reach and now he gets it and that's always a moment oh and then we see the full feather ah that was so unfortunate i think he still had way more to give actually but not being able to do a clip in the first two or three attempts it's really power demanding and it unsettles you as well i mean at that point you're thinking why can't i get it in what am i doing wrong have i read this wrong so there's negative thoughts yeah that's a really big mind game well he'll have a score of 35 as he undoes his knot and just looks up his final is done for tonight but let's see a replay of his run good through the chubi section you can see cutting loose going feet first that's the method the root setters designed that move very nice design section actually it looks beautiful and let's see this fumble you can see just heartbreakingly close and finally gets a middle finger in it in order to control it on the rope there just below the foot that's always so awkward to fall in this way because you can really fall upside down yeah expect falls tonight and ladies and gentlemen if you're joining us this is the pinnacle of sport climbing at the moment but we are missing a few athletes here in brienne a lot of the olympians apart from alberta hines lopez pretty much flying to tokyo in tokyo or certainly in transit at the moment but that does allow us to see perhaps some new athletes coming through yeah that's true like it allows also maybe a little bit younger athletes but in general also some different athletes to be competing in the finals and i mean the men's field is very strong and there are a lot of people with potential to climb into finals or even to reach podium but as the like whole mansfield is so tight it's kind of sometimes a bit random who actually comes further to the next round well alberto gines lopez from spain he's the athlete we've been talking about who's gonna have to fly across the olympics very soon he's only 18 and he's just packed his season full of competitions this year when in 2016 in fact when the olympics was announced he moved to barcelona in order to train he's dedicated for this he wants a victory and how good would it be for him he's confident if he walks away with a podium tonight yeah absolutely he really deserves it i mean he has shown it already several times that he can be there and it just hasn't worked quite out but he does have the potential to win such a competition i mean [Applause] i believe that he is a little bit exhausted for the moment and i think it's kind of normal because he has competed so much already this year but he looks a little bit more tired at the than at the beginning of the lead world cups well hopefully he is going to re regain some energy before the olympics right yeah and let's see what he could do in this final you can see on the bottom or the left-hand side of the screen and now jump yeah full commitment and it looked really relaxed for him as well like he didn't seem to struggle at all with this move so he crawls ever closer to federer's high point at the moment federer sitting in first place at the moment also the double dinos quite often they are not actually too hard in a in elite route because they are not meant that you fall there but they are meant to bring you a little bit out of the flow and to insecure you a bit and some are getting along with this easier and some are struggling mentally a little bit more yeah we did have a little moment there from alberto just clipped the quick draw as he slapped out right not a huge problem but again just might get in his head a little bit as he uses this feet first method trying to see he's doing it a little bit different than figure yes using the hold a little bit in a different way and that's the other option that i was thinking about that you could do it's also feet first method but not turning around the complete way yeah it's complex that movement because he has to match his heel where his hand is and then totally swing his feet around to the other side and alberto looking like he's having to fight here a little bit looking for the knee bar there yeah he starts looking a little bit tired [Music] and now as the power demanding moves are coming i think he'll have kind of a hard time i hope he's uh yeah yeah alberto falls fairly early we saw him starting to struggle and that big physical underclick move a little beyond him today we'll see how that stands though at the moment he'll move into second place but of course we've got six more athletes to come and lend yeah probably so alberto's evening is done we'll see him in the olympics very soon let's see some replays that dino made it look so very easy yeah very confident and then this is the moment that big physical left-hand under-clean you could see him powering out on it he bumped up but it wasn't going to be enough for alberto yeah for a movement like that you still need to have quite a lot of juice in the tank otherwise you're just dropping off there because you need plenty of biceps and you need plenty of core he's a man who has both of those things but as you said such a packed schedule so he'll now go reassess and we'll see him soon on the biggest stage so if you're just joining us hello and welcome to brienne song we're here for the lead finals starting off with the men's and the men's root is on the right hand side of your screen that very pretty looking white and black root that winds its way up starting the bottom right going to the left traversing back right and then finally straight up the head wall to hopefully end in glory luca and i'm very curious how this final is going to develop because now the rain is again pouring down and i think the conditions they are not making it easier especially on this dual texture holes like if it becomes humid then you really have a hard time there yeah it's a bit like and i've said this before but when a formula one race or something goes from dry into pouring with rain it just changes the game let's see what happens though luca what a breakout year for him two finals already shamadi he came so so close [Music] seventh in chamonix seventh in innsbruck will he move his way up the podium he's certainly got potential he's an athlete who could win this and someone we're expecting to win in the future yeah for sure absolutely i mean he's still pretty young and he's already so strong and you can see he's having a very good climbing intelligence like you see him sometimes struggle somewhere already rather low down but he's always able to recompose very well because he finds some good uh small sequences where he can rest or just recompose himself a little bit and that's a very it's a essential quality that you need as a lead climber yeah he's got very good footwork and as you said the intelligence he just seems to read sequence as well and he's going to have to in a minute because this is the first real crux of this route feet first hands first let's see what method he uses yeah i'm curious to see how he's going to approach this feed first method so he reaches up his right thumb on that dual textured hold but his fingers on the rough bit you can see a screw on just underneath and it looks like he's thinking about feet first tip yeah he's doing the piece first method and i think he's ah he's struggling a little bit i'm curious i think it's a little bit uncomfortable there because the hold where is moving too it's it's not really in cut so you're not going to feel very comfortable there you really have to move your body inside the position wow that was powerful what strength there from luca cutting loose on two presses really but he's had to go back and i think he's going to stick with his feet forward method but he has lost some energy doing that i was so shocked that was super power demanding i mean he basically just jumped inside of his shoulder as a gaston all right now he spins himself but he's trying to get his left hand through you can see his heel almost blocking [Music] he was desperately searching for something where he could do a tow hook with his left foot but it was just all of her dual text there so he never got a stable position so struggling down low on this route he just takes a moment and of course having a move that hard to read so early on it's that's that's a big ask for this yeah for sure i mean it can easily bring you out and i mean we were talking about it he is a good root reader oh that was that's the move yeah we both we're in awe of here in the commentary box look at that just really pressing with the right left almost pressing really as well taking out all the steam of your body so physical and here's the toe hook that he was searching for but that didn't exist yeah i mean even if you're a good root reader sometimes it just happens that you're getting like not really for some reason a good sequence and then it can just all bring you out and you're lost all of a sudden even if you know that this is actually your strength but that's the game in competitions right exactly and that man is well used to competitions by now he's only 23 but it just seems like he's been such a veteran of the circuit he was fourth in chamonix a week ago so close to the podium third in innsbruck so a man certainly with a big claim for one of tonight's medals let's see if he performs yeah i think sasha is searching for another win actually after his first victory in villard two years ago exactly 2019 was the last time he won he has come so close so many times yes yeah and like he so deserves it i know i've known him already for quite a few years i've started training with him sometimes back in 2016 and already in that time he was very strong having a solid potential and it was very interesting to see how year by year he got a little bit stronger a little bit more experienced and well now he's basically one of the absolute top climbers and it's so exciting to see him here in finals and i truly wish him best of luck i it would be nice to see him win once again yeah he is one of the loveliest guys around and the crowd always gets behind him as he gets through this first part of the route fairly straightforward you just have to keep it together remind yourself you're one of the best in the world and do the job you're here to do as we get close to this double dino look how dramatic this is big old leap out left to good holds but still always a moment early on and very solid once again yeah no problems from sasha there as he quickly moves through and that is our current two athletes who have climbed at the moment sitting in the hot seats let's see what sasha can do here as he rests with a high heel sebastian what do you think feet first or hands first for sasha i say sasha is going to go feet first because wow that was very very risky but i think you know the sloper with the rising humidity it becomes worse and worse and i think it's really hard to actually keep on being stable there so sasha bumps his way there immediately sees the feet the heel and he's looking like he's going to make a clip from this position which is awesome [Applause] right tip toeing his toes around trying to find some friction you can see the rubber left from other athletes shoes on the hole that's the sweet spot really and sasha not having any troubles with the feet first method but i expected that he's a very good root reader yeah he did that well and it was so interesting watching lucas struggling and sasha just immediately reading it yeah it's all about root reading it's all about root reading and also this kind of intuitive feeling because sometimes it's really hard to read the root perfectly from from the bottom but if you are on the position you kind of have this feeling okay this is the way it must be working and for me this is a very important skill i personally wouldn't consider myself for example as the amazing root reader but i know that when i'm in a position i quite often just intuitively feel what i've got to do and yeah as a lead plumber as a competition lead climber this is an essential skill well sasha is just under three minutes left on the clock so halfway through and he's certainly more than halfway up this route and on the section that i would imagine really suits him this physical compression he moves yeah absolutely i mean look at his body shape he is he's a very muscular guy he's pretty strong so he likes that well he's currently in third looking at that graphic over on the left hand side a few more moves and he'll move into second place [Music] cuts loose then gets a toe we remember federer gotta heal that and now he gets the heel and sasha will move up the leaderboard for sure now there he is second place for sasha slowly starting to get a little bit tired but i i know sasha and this is definitely a way better uh way to clip actually this one because the heel hook from video was a little bit too high wow a little bit too high up i just wanted to say and that move seems to be harder than expected because i didn't expect zasha to drop off in that moment i think it's awkward that's what it is and we saw it with the women's the same feature last night just wrapping yourself around it is so difficult and you only have the left foot hold but for the right side for the right foot you are not having anything to press against so it's really hard to get actually the right direction to get to the left hole all right let's watch a replay of sasha's run that dino now more of a sort of crowd-pleasing move than a tricky move for the athletes but it is fun to see yeah for sure and this is the moment he lost it let's watch closely so he's bumping his right hand not looking 100 comfortable and loses the left and also the right hand you could see that he really struggled actually grabbing the hold on in the right way and i think his arms seem to be quite pumped already and the fingers they already got straight on the holes and that's always a sign when you're getting tired of the forearm as well there was a thumb there that he didn't use it looked like too much of a reach for his grip almost yeah yeah yeah it looked like he didn't really get friction on on the hole well maybe that's also because of the conditions right now i mean it it keeps on raining and it doesn't improve let's look at our leaderboard and sasha layman we just watched him climb he climbed his way up into the lead although he's got the same score as federer it goes back to the semi-final so sasha is in the lead at the moment so sasha from federer and alberto ginas lopez in 27 plus and we're about to see martin stranik climb on this finals route he hasn't got a score because he's yet to come out i'm excited to see martin stronic because yeah i mean he has been competing so long already and from him i never really know what to expect because he's so strong and sometimes he's really showing it and sometimes like he kind of disappears but i think from him you can kind of expect everything well exactly and the unexpected is what happened in shamany i don't think anyone really going into that finals would have thought he would get a medal but bronze and what a performance from him what a performance and yeah i think i think he was physically still capable of doing more even in this route i mean shamany was definitely a hard final round you could see it and especially in very hard routes the small details they count way more like the little mistakes they're a hard route a very hard to just forgiving even less and that's when sometimes the results come out which you totally do not expect something with martin that i've noticed it seems like he's picked up his endurance game a little bit i remember in moscow he was having to climb the lead route very very quickly because he just didn't have the endurance something's changed it seems yeah for sure i think also if you look at his physical shape he's tall he is having a lot of muscles and he's also for sure one of the heavier climbers so if you are a heavier climber well he's going to have more maximal power for sure but also for him the power to mass ratio is not as good as for other athletes so on the endurance game that really plays a role for sure so if you are in this body shape like him you have to work more on the endurance if you're wondering why he's walking in a funny way he's trying to keep his toes off the ground he's just walking on the heels because it is damp here it's been raining and you can see he just uses a towel to right you should get wet shoes actually it is a problem isn't it well he's 31 he got a bronze medal last week and he will love to add another one to that collection so let's see what he can do there are certainly sections of this route that will suit him yeah yeah absolutely i mean if he's go getting well through defeat first part then this powerful part i see him liking that a lot so martin stranick getting us underway here in the men's final about halfway through this men's final at the moment and he's climbing very quickly yeah it is his style isn't he just goes for it let's see what he does on the double dyno easy peasy yeah absolutely smooth you can see just a different speed here as he presses into that hole releases the heel that could be a bit tricky just drags it across and i think i think especially in these moves if you're able to get through them quickly that's so power-saving all right so far he's facing to the left and now he turns his attention to this right woods traverse that's the hole the all-important press and you can see similar method heal on and then he'll look to get that left toe out on the volume ah totally solid and still even campusing that part so you can tell he has still got plenty of power left yeah i'm shaking my head in my commentary box just watching that power on that campus movie it's such a little thing but it just it shows how strong he is at the moment yeah absolutely right hill hook's locked in no problem through this feat first movement you can see he's going there with the other hand i'm curious how he's going to salute that if that's actually working yeah he's going back because that was kind of the wrong sequence you need to be there with the right hand where he is right now and then get into the undercling with the left hand otherwise you're not getting out of the position i think yeah so a slight root reading error there but he sorted out quickly and now he's into this powerful compression section barely stopping not resting yeah but if you look at him he really likes this kind of movements and he looks so compulsive although a slight drop there of the rope perhaps revealing that martin is getting tired here let's see now he comes into this very awkward series of moves through the yellow volume now resting intelligent with a high right heel double heels for a second now a heel and a toe so now the very interesting part is starting now i would say he may be a little bit fresher than the other athletes so far but let's see what happens because it has been all happening so quickly here yeah this is the stopper move this clip is fine if you know how to do it he looks relaxed look at his face his facial expressions they don't show any negative emotion well martin's stranding close one yes martin he looks at the audience gives a little boss nod and up with the right hand but now he's gonna awkwardly stand himself up and just loses the stand up press move what a delicate session section tell you what though martin stratton's in the lead at the moment first place for him with a 37 plus now what is a plus you say well a plus is when you're using the hold you're on before you fall off and that's decided by moving your center of mass towards the next hole and moving your hands towards the hold it's better if you do both and it is down to judges decision this is where it gets a bit complex so we know what the rules are but at the end of the day the judges make the call oh yeah well especially with the plus rule there have been so many appeals already and yeah lately it has been some time there have been quite a few strange decisions let's say we'll have a bit of controversy every now and again and of course these athletes will be wanting to get as many points as possible so yeah they're always looking for ways to try to maximize their score that is our audience here in brian's song they braved the rain which has now stopped and they're enjoying their barbecues a few beers and watching the cream of the crop of competition climbing to meet you out of i mean a bit of a legend yeah absolutely i would call him a legend i mean the simple fact he started climbing and two years later he was second in his first world youth championship i know that because i've been so long on the climbing trip with him when we've been talking a lot and the year after that was in 2013 he was first after semi-finals together in that time with ramon julian p blanket impressive after three years yeah he's a bit of a wild card in this finals as well i don't know how he's gonna perform and it's gonna be fascinating to watch yeah absolutely i mean i think nobody knows that it's it's tricky to say like for him when he climbs anything can happen he tends to do mistakes especially in on-site climbing but if he doesn't then he's almost unbeatable i mean he has unsighted fisheye which is a very famous hc in oleana he's got it somewhere in him and he's whether he can turn it on for this finals yeah for sure i mean i would i really hope that he's finally going to have a good run again because there have been several years where it didn't go so well for him i know during the last years he struggled a lot with injuries of his knee of his fingers like both of his knees actually so he has had a hard time and well now i know how it is to be struggling with injuries and it's it's nice to see him back in finals let's see how he deals with this first little move really in the men's final he's hesitating a little bit it is a long way but it makes it look easy eventually yeah it's just commitment that movie it's commitment that's all and if you're not getting too stressed out you're not going to fall there as a finalist but yeah it's i mean it's awkward always right let's watch this move because it is a bit of a moment this every time one of the athletes pop out to this next hold i kind of get a little heart lurch let's see how he does it heart lurch is that a thing i don't know maybe i see a doctor about that but whatever i get a little bit nervous for them oh yeah i you can see he doesn't like that hold at all but ah solidly done yeah presses out to it he is thinking about these crux moves a little bit more than the other athletes at the moment which is no bad thing it's just a different thing it's a different thing but sometimes it can be the crucial thing that is taking a little bit more energy and then at the very important part you are just not having that energy left right he goes feet first we know this is the way deciding with the toe instead of a heel [Music] and i mean this is always the tricky part in competition climbing if you want to get really high you need to take risk and you need to take sometimes a little bit more risk than you would like to if you're very very strong you're able to compensate a lot but at the end if you're just trying to compensate all the time then you'll never use your whole potential he might have left himself a fairly awkward clip here you can see just having to pinch that but he has made it work but it doesn't seem that it's stressing him a lot no he's almost calmed down doesn't he it's like he's gonna climb himself into a good feeling on this room yeah but that's how i know him that's how i remember him also from training like on holds where other people are falling where other people are struggling he's just taking some talk i don't know having a drink well if he if he had a drink with himself he could yeah his his grip strength and endurance is impressive it really is he's read that left hand on that hold on so we're looking totally relaxed still i hope i hope this is going to work because he's now again hanging actually but now he's adjusted because we he's a left hand on that undercling ideally and there he goes he's kind of worked the sequence out but he has left himself a little pumped at the moment i think he's trying to rest on that undercling of course underclings yeah they can be a good rest they can also be quite sapping for the biceps yeah i personally i do not enjoy at all underclings as resting positions because you're never hanging in a relaxed position like you're always having hanging actively and you always use a lot of core and biceps i would rather go for a smaller hold but a little bit more passive body position well dimitri looked a bit shaky for a while but he's still going one minute 42 on the clock as he nears the lip of this wall and this is the sequence the clip he was just doing the under cross clip dimitri fighting all the way here i thought he was going to go earlier on but he's still here on this finals wall and now he needs to make this slap up for the crib he's struggling with the movements a little bit but as i know him he's not too pumped actually yeah he's going from strength to strength here in this final i mean but this is where it can quickly go wrong it's very awkward the feet are small nice just signaling to the crowd and you can hear them respond that's so good to see as he rests in this press position [Applause] and now he's going to stand up to this big right hand watch his feet though any second it can pop look at this this move is i mean almost too far for him like with his body size wow and he sticks that little side pull with the left hand in order to get himself established that's gonna jump him up oh just like i think he just came a little bit low on the hole that's so unfortunate because the hole you could see it on the chalk actually the part where you had to grab it it was a little bit higher and i think if you had reached the right spot the sweet spot on this hold he still could have kept climbing as things stand though with two athletes to go that man is guaranteed a bronze medal according to that score we'll wait for any appeals of course but currently he's sitting on the podium oh that's amazing and ah he was capable of doing more i you could tell that but such a good thing to see him back on podium after such a long time very nice well let's watch a replay of that because he could be our potential winner with two athletes to go that's the first dino and then he made this sequence look so easy yeah absolutely i mean he didn't struggle at all i think he found a good flow on the route there we go give me some energy jesus right yeah well i think he's happy i think he's happy i mean he's guaranteed a podium and what a moment i mean i really thought he was coming off in the compression section underneath that yellow volume yeah for a short time it looked a little bit sketchy but then he recomposed himself and well if he once finds a little spot to relax a little bit you can almost not bring him off the wall right sean bailey well gold medals look at them in his tally he'll be looking for another and i said he was one of the favorites he really has got to be at this moment he seems to have found a different gear yeah yeah i mean i think now after two victories he just got into he got on the wave you know like he's on the floor and if you're once in that kind of mindset of winning competitions and knowing how to win and that makes a huge difference that's such a boost of confidence absolutely and he won v lars he won chamonix will he make it the triple here in brian salt i know he'd love to you wouldn't know it from his demeanor he's so chilled and relaxed but he's got some fire within him as he begins this route two clips in the athletes have to clip all those quick draws on the way up the wall you can't just free solo your way up which can be sometimes very tricky especially the clip stay can be so demanding and so awkward sometimes i mean as a sport climber myself i know how scary the clips can be and it's no different for these guys yeah absolutely sean bailey someone with a huge amount of gas in his tank he doesn't really stop he's just relentlessly moves upwards and such a lovely flowy star from sean bailey making a double clip down low yes he's having a very own climbing style like sometimes you look at him and you think oh that sequence looked a bit strange and then all of a sudden again there's the switch and he looks totally relaxed again and he's able to grab holes with only as much power as it's needed but just not more and that's a very important ability and he seems very relaxed of his mindset he does using toes instead of heels on that pressy volume and then releases it that was a very smart idea using their toe and stepping with the right foot to the right side well you get a bit more reach as well though and it was way more controlled so sean bailey excited to watch him on this feet first section will he struggle will he read it first time let's find out as he bumps up that right hand cuts loose and then yep feet first all the athletes reading that certainly from the ground oh but interesting with the right heel press yeah i'm curious if he's going oh yeah it works well i thought there was maybe not enough space but didn't seem to bother him too much and now he spins himself round to press where his hands were a couple of seconds ago he's gonna make this clip a little bit awkward but he's now got himself in a far better position in order to do that sean resting in an unusual place there yeah i just wanted to say that the place where he's deciding to rest well it's it's interesting to see i wouldn't expect this one to be a resting position but it seems to work well for him man it's very sean bailey it's very sean bailey absolutely but also the thing about resting positions everybody is having very individual strengths and weaknesses and sometimes a position can suit you well where everybody else says oh that's nothing at all that's the interesting part about climbing absolutely and sean bailey now moves from his unusual rest as he enters the powerful section of this route good so far two minutes 45 on the clock we haven't seen any tops so far dimitri getting fairly close just now it would be cool to see how this route finishes here in brian yeah absolutely and he's going again with the left hand there first i mean we know the match is possible right it just might be a slightly less well i mean he makes that look fairly straightforward that match on the other yeah it doesn't seem to bother him at all like it's hard to see whether there's any friction where his hands are if it's just pure dual textured slippiness and now he's approaching to the powerful pinch section wow this heel hook was yeah it was also kind of risky but it seemed quite stable for him yeah there's not a lot on that white volume is there i mean i think there's a little a black hole underneath but we'll see when he moves that left foot no there's nothing there's nothing at all it's just flat yeah and shown and he's also deciding for this undercross clip it looks so for me it looks awkward because you're only relying on the right heel hook and it could easily potentially easily slip but it seems to work well sean bailey is having to fight here he'll go up oh he thought about going up for the crimp but i could only match now he goes up to the crib and i think now he's really fighting fighting the pump he is sean bailey in a battle for the podium but he's still on the wall he's still on the wall can he make this fiddly clip work though yes he can so let's see it's quite a reachy move coming up has he got the height for it is he going to have to work out a different [Applause] to sequence honest i think this section for smaller guys it's certainly harder than when you're a little bit taller because you could see he was so stretched out and also for dimitri before he was totally stretched out and even more for the next movement like he barely reached the upper hole and then when there actually comes the momentum when you when you release the lower hand [Music] i mean it's impressive that dv3 grabbed this one he still could catch it but i think if you're taller you definitely have an advantage on that section absolutely well sean bailey currently in third place let's see a replay of this spring in a leap into that double dino i want to go try that move and then feet first and check out this slightly unusual sequence if we see it brings that heel down and then finally this is where he started a red line matching that hold bumping the hand looking for the pinch eventually and that little crimp but you could see his fingers started to uncurl and then watch his left hand he's just got fingers on it really and then the right is what let him down just popping off so stefan okay sophie i mean i feel like i said the word legend a lot but he is another one is stefano sophie yeah definitely he is and i mean also as he already mentioned it before not only in competitions but also on the rock he has been doing so many hard routes i think he's one of the people with the hardest routes like with the most hardest ascent actually well i know he's going straight to try a very famous very difficult route a fairly close part won't reveal any more of that but that's where he's going next week so from world cups to uh the highest sport climbing grades around stefano gasolf he can do it all he was second in shamany second in innsbruck only made the semi-finals in villa a little hiccup for him there but he's got back on track with those podium places let's see what he could do here [Applause] yeah i mean stefano is a guy he always has the potential to win and physically personally i would say in this final physically he might you might consider him as the strongest climber i mean it's always hard to tell you cannot easily look inside of the people but the way i see it physically he's the strongest and but anything can happen you know it doesn't matter that much in a final route if you are physically the strongest or not there are so many factors that are coming together it was interesting watching that jump for stefano he was looking down at his feet as he was jumping almost he knew he was going to get it yeah i think yeah and a high heel sean bailey's toe beater we think works best on that but and you can tell he does not like the sloper at all and the friction on this one is getting worse and worse with the time and the rain we actually have one of these holes with us here today we can feel how bad the texture is yeah the texture is awful not great but stefano makes it through that slopey section and now let's see if his years of reading intelligence will pay off for this section [Applause] bumps up for the slope guppies his hand around it and now he goes feet first and i'm curious to see how his liking actually defeat first method but that looks very solid yeah stefano is upside down right now on the wall it's hard to tell from that camera angle but he's literally upside down head towards the ground and looking amazingly relaxed for a man in that position he looks totally relaxed then it's really nice to see because stefano is someone who sometimes struggles with these tricky sequences like if when it comes down to physical resources he's hardly beatable you could see that in the finals in innsbruck but sometimes the tricky sections they are giving him a little bit of a hard time but this one he seems really relaxed on this stephanie sophie the final male athlete out tonight in this men's final he's the only one who can knock dimitri off the top spot let's see what he can do here he's read that sequence well slightly struggling now just reversing a little bit in order to rest and now he's going into that pinch which is one of one of his holes that he loves those nasty little pinches well i think whenever holes are bad he's good on it exactly the king of the awful hole just stepping up a selfie and let's see he's got a left hand up which we've seen a few methods on this but the rain is still absolutely driving down here in brian's song now high heel hook in order to slap into this compression move and another bump up with the left hand [Applause] yeah no trouble so far two minutes 28 on the clock he's got lots of time and he just uses his foot there to flick the rope into a better position [Applause] how is he still on the wall wow that that he still caught this one i mean wow i saw him falling definitely stephanie gassolfie is spider-man you've heard it here first how did he hold on to that yellow volume and look at this i mean it was super demanding for sure to hold just with one arm basically but i mean he's still there and he's actually resting yeah stefano had a moment where he's recovered well but has it sat his strength one minute 36 on the clock [Applause] stefano resting somehow still on the wall he's in fourth position currently sean bailey is in third he's in the danger zone stefano gasolf is eyeing him up and now let's see if he can make the press he looks far more solid than sean did on this and a big reach up though ah stefano crawling his fingers up latching the hold getting a toe just on that right flagging the left out and catching this still there now it gets really interesting is he going to do this move he will stick it and he does it there you go you called it statically almost bumped into that hold and that is jumping it right up to the top of the leaderboard for stephanie gasolfi he'll want to finish this route anyway why not 38 seconds on the clock let's see a men's top here oh finally drops the big ball with the right hand so that's an impressive goal i mean i saw him already falling before and that he still helped this one impressive i mean that tells about his physical resources i mean and then he still manages to win this competition impressive he's done it in the worst conditions of this evening as well look at that right now the rain is awful i mean we are actually getting a little bit wet here under the tent and um my clothes are a bit wet sebastian we are getting soggy here and you can see the rain falling on stefano's shoulders what a moment for him i can't wait to see a replay of that moment where he slapped the yellow volume with the left hand that's so impressive let's see a replay easy from the off from stefano look at that head down straight laser guided into that right foot hold feet first no problem and he intelligently rested his way through this part as well and look at this mrs and how is he holding on look at that left hand it's not on anything sure the right's on something and the left one is just in the compression magic from stefano geselfi and let's see the moment where he finally came off but it didn't matter by that stage anyway he was already on the top spot of the podium and the sloper the left sloper must be so bad especially in these conditions and oh i'm curious how this final is going to carry on like it is sebastian i'm gonna have to leave i'm gonna have to go interview that man stefano i so enjoyed talking with you today so tonight it was really nice to be here again in the commentary box sebastian i'll say goodbye enjoy the rest of your evening thank you very much and i'll talk to you soon thank you [Applause] [Applause] is [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] foreign um [Applause] [Applause] foreign [Applause] [Music] [Applause] foreign [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] i'm gonna hold it here that's so good i'm going to chuck that in there [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] what a victory for you tonight how did it feel out there i feels great i'm so happy that after two a bit disappointing second place in innsbruck and in germany in germany i think i was close and today i just wanted to win and i almost fell on the final route on the on that part but i just grabbed the volume and was uh it was amazing that moment where you almost fell i mean i was on my feet in the commentary box how did you save it i don't know i just want to grab something and the only thing that was there was the flat volume so just compress and somehow stay on the wall i don't know i could do it well it was amazing to watch you climb congratulations on your victory and enjoy this moment thank you very much [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] what a wonderful moment from him as we now see the women coming out onto the stage and we've had a change in the commentary box as well molly thompson smith you've braved the monsoon that we're having here today it's soggy out there it is definitely but it's a lot drier under here actually so i think i've picked the right place to be exactly we've got a lovely tent meanwhile that's our three athletes announced so far as she made shirishi she joins alexander tatakova and lana and ryu nakawaga from japan vita lucan she comes out the fifth athlete to be announced here today elisha adamovska qualifying in third place for this women's finals just getting confused about which end to started that but she's there lucha rakovitz she joins the other women qualified in second place for this final and the last athlete out will be natalia grossman from team usa molly some big names in that women's final any favorites popping themselves out for you at the moment i mean natalya's on quite good form at the moment isn't she but i wouldn't um but against luchka she's been so consistent i mean an unfortunate semi-final round for her in charmany but on the whole across qualifiers semi's finals she's she's consistent it'll be interesting to see what happens the rain has stopped here in britain's sun absolutely poured just now as you can see from the audience the women's route on the left-hand side of the wall that purple winding route it looks quite basic i think i mean i haven't actually had a close-up look but yeah i think it looks a lot more straightforward well now's your moment to have a look we're going to look back at the observation for the women let's check it out uh natalia the women earlier on we can tell it was early because it was sunny yeah yeah quite crazy weather conditions i think um i think this is better than it was expected to be though i mean yeah a downpour is not great but i think i saw thunderstorms on the forecast so by the way yesterday was very hot very very warm just watched ryu there stack it back because i think she caught her foot on something earlier on today so that is the women's route as molly said straightforward but tough some big physical moves some sloppy holes which won't be easy in these wet conditions and of course those volumes i mean molly you were climbing last night these volume's such a feature of this wall here in brian's son yeah totally brienne's on has such a classic like style and i think these volumes have been on the wall like every year that i've competed here and i think i've had my first round in 2014 or 15. so yeah these volumes are pretty old yeah they might get fresh paint coat of paint between times but they are classic volumes so the athletes can use any methods they want in order to observe the roots um with binoculars some just their eyes and it's all about piecing together what the root setters might have conjured up here yeah you're also allowed to touch the very start holes or i think anything you can reach as long as your feet don't come off the ground so i personally like to have a feel of the start holes just so you know exactly what you're walking up to you can kind of imagine yourself pulling on get a bit more comfortable well that is our women's lead finalist raju nakawagwe she will be out first and natalya grossman will climb last if you're just joining us we're at the women's finals we had the men's finals earlier on this evening so make sure you go and catch up on all the action if you missed that natalia grossman probably the favorite here tonight but as we've just seen for that men's competition anything can happen watching dimitri climbing into a podium place was pretty special to watch [Music] ryu coming out there she's just 17. and she'll certainly be feeling the pressure again a pretty young finals lineup i'm pretty sure everyone here is younger than i am well what's going to be interesting about this final is none of the women out have won a gold medal oh so we'll have a brand new world cup winner that's pretty exciting [Applause] coming out to join us on our stage she's using her trainers in order to protect her feet from the wet as you can see it's just encroaching on the stage a little bit but this wall is so overhanging 55 degrees in the middle section of the rain doesn't really touch it and molly i mean you've been around in spinal semi-finals you've had rainstorms like that does it bother you as an athlete or is it just one of those things you deal with honestly it's just a bit fluffy like just having to make sure your shoes are dry and just making sure you're sitting in a part of the holding area that's not where or your chairs not wet so it's just a bit faff really um i don't think i've ever really noticed it changing conditions too much but we'll see how these how these holes feel for the women luckily they are mostly hold so it hopefully won't be too bad so ryu gets herself started as a bit of a strange start kind of a press up onto two volumes and they quite like a an interesting start i think they're trying to freak you out a little bit um we had a press start yesterday and actually in qualification as well she's reaching through that there's quite an interesting little feature of the wall which is that hold which is kind of covering the bolt so the athletes don't touch it and the athletes won't need to use it it looks like an undercling but the hold on the right is far better [Applause] so right you get sideways on the wall here she just takes a moment to rest before launching into this 55 degree overhanging section [Music] it will be interesting to see if ryu's sequence on the route is much different to the other competitors seeing as she's pretty much the only she is the only japanese competitor so i wonder if there's like a language barrier there usually everyone kind of reads together but yeah maybe maybe she would won't have been able to communicate so well yeah let's see how she reads this because it is on site the athletes only get a small chance in order to look at these roots before they start climbing it four minutes 15 on the clock for her out of a possible six minutes on this route [Music] and now into the first really awkward volume you can see just having to stretch around it and it changes the route doesn't it molly so you come from a sort of almost a 2d surface this 3d maze yeah definitely you've got to start being aware of heel hooks and and where your body is positioned and it also makes clipping so much harder as we've seen quite a lot of sketchy clips i think in the semi-final round and the men's final earlier yeah dragging a rope around some of these volumes can be really quite tricky awkward a little bit scary as well and definitely something that's on your mind as well quite distracting it looks like a crimp that hole but it's more of a sloper really she's just using her thumb to get a little bit more friction on it she'll want to bump that left hand and catch that side pull this looks like the first crux i reckon looks like you really have to find the correct body position oh actually that looks quite good going straight into the into the undercut yeah she re-thought it didn't she went out with a right first and then would have had to have done a really physical catch to make that work a lot of holds here a lot of options [Music] just catches herself with the volume about halfway up now this route you can see our graphic on the left showing you where she's at we didn't see any tops for the men right he's got a clever little knee bar in there with the right knee pressing into the top hole there it is again you can see just locking it in looks like quite a painful one and she doesn't really spend a huge amount of time on it this looks like um a necessary rest section before some pretty small holes yeah i questioned this with the root set as i was saying how difficult this next bit looks but they were saying the crimps coming up and you can just oh she drops it going up to the grim so we'll have to wait and see what those crips are like for the next athlete ryu's day is done she will of course move straight into the number one position as the only athlete to have climbed so far yeah i wonder if this next section is kind of a rose move where you've got to do a bit of a wild untangle or whether you can sit on that little foothold on the nose of the volume and go left left again and then come into a shoulder from the side you can't really see too well but i think this will be the section that catches the women out the most yeah we'll see this section in a sec we watch the replay you can see her just bumping away and a big catch on that volume in order to get herself in and slapping up yeah i've got the beater on that next we'll talk about it when we get there but it's going to be interesting this section it's more of a cross remove apparently from the root setter so quite fiddly root reading but we'll see when we get there lana is out next another first world cup final for lana yeah she was in the semi-finals in vilas and in innsbruck but her first time in the finals part of this deep deep well of talent in the slovenian team yeah the ultimate fighting team i'd say they look pumped and then they just keep on going they definitely do their circuits i like that molly's had like some kind of top trump's game that's going to be coming out she's just 21 no medals at the moment yeah this might be just a fun experience for her if she's got no expectations first finals a great place to make finals good crowd and hopefully a good finals route for her yeah and so often pressure can play a big part and if you're relaxed just having a good time then who knows what might happen i think semi-finals is the most stressful round for most of the competitors and if lana was able to deal with the pressure of a pretty high scoring semi-final yesterday then i'm sure she'll be just psyched to be in finals and ready to try hard on hopefully a harder route you can see our high point at the moment hold 27 plus is the goal for the athletes as lana moves up you can see the score just adjusting itself as she does so it's cool to see how strong the slovenian team still are despite yanya and mia the olympians not being here i mean three women in finals out of eight is really good going oh slight hesitation there maybe these holes aren't as good as they looked initially yeah she did have a moment she seems to have got it together a little bit though and presses out in a big move onto that right hand quite awkward because this wall suddenly kicks up as you can see there and you have to reach way above your head in order to get them but i think lana's moving a bit quicker with a bit more purpose right making a clip before this slightly awkward section around the volumes good footwork at the moment using that right hand three finger drag crimp and then a big pinch with the left so this is a committing move this one i think it's incendy isn't it because you've really got a bump way out come on [Music] get a high heel hook have a cool cut loose move there we've lost the clock at the moment but we'll keep you updated if she gets close to the uh six minute mark seems that most of the rests in this competition have been undercuts actually on my qualification route there was another purple undercut around this height and i think most people rested in undercuts in the semi-final as well so i was talking to sebastian earlier about undercut rest and we were both saying that actually it can be quite an awkward rest it can be quite bicepy if you don't get it right yeah if you don't straight manage to straighten your arms or find a position where you can kind of fully relax you definitely have to keep the tension through your arms and they become quite physical here we go oh obviously used that sloper yeah i think i overhyped that move i thought it would be a big snatch into that cycle but it's not really and you can see just looking to kick her feet right she tries twice three times very different beater already it isn't she's just pressing the side of her foot into the hole there and then loses it to slip down maybe this was the intended method i think come on oh takes a big old fall and a swing there that looks very happy well she had two minutes 45 lots of time but that section proving a little too tricky a bit too cruxy nice to see her smiling though first world cup final and a good fight there's not much more you can ask for really absolutely halfway up this wall in the middle of an overhang in a world cup final i mean i can only dream molly so hello if you're joining us we're in pretty handsome watching the women's finals and this is where we lost lana great cut well not where we lost here but this is her replay of that moment cutting loose taking a second to compose herself before matching the heel and then this big old swing back down to the ground i think this foot swinging section was pretty costly energy wise and coming off of an undercut was just a little bit too powerful after that our crowd looks like they're at a festival and there is that vibe here in the brie hansen stadium everyone having a good time watching competition climbing i love the red lights on that stage there as well so alexandra todd cover third in chamonix sixth in vilas she's 16 and she has just exploded onto the scene this year and she looks like she means business tonight yeah one bronze medal so far already and a pretty good progression to finals so far it's not bad isn't it some enviable percentages we keep talking about her style and it is worth mentioning because it it's different it's a bit snatchy a bit grabby it's exciting to watch it doesn't look particularly fluid but then she just never lets go so true and it's quite impressive like i said in chamonix considering she's so young like to have such a committed climbing style i think is really special no sign of nerves from her looks like she was born to be here in a finals [Music] and moving quickly and confidently through this opening little section only a couple of holds in looks like she's actually starting to struggle here a little bit early on it's quite interesting she struggled a bit with the start of the qualification routes as well i think the first couple quick draws have been quite sketchy in here in brian's on but she definitely relaxed the higher she got up so hopefully we'll see the same here yeah no one wants to fall in those first couple of draws and once you pass them you can sort of go well i made it this far it's all good now i'll just press on yeah it's really funny yesterday's semi-final the women had a press for the first move and we all came back in being like oh that first moved the press so scary why did they do that why can't they just put a jug on the wall and i don't think anyone struggled with that move at all so it's quite it's quite incredible what observation can do to your mental state before you get on the wall so alexandra it looks like she's through her initial nerves here and this is quite a big move out right but she sticks it well and now really looking to be in her flow i think she'll be more comfortable now that she's into a slightly more powerful section i think that suits her committed style a bit better yeah forget about padding around on volumes let's see some big moves and there's one where did that come from okay major style points though yeah i should be a star point trophy they're really some kind of hat i think again what commitment unbelievable it's amazing there was a different way through that section and she just didn't want to use it it's not even like alexandra tried to static it beforehand like i mean that's a lesson for us all commitment is the way so she goes up to the crimp what an exciting start to her final about halfway through the wall now get sideways and what crossthrough move again but yeah i really like her sequencing so far i'll tell you what commentating on her climbing is a pleasure it's always something to talk about nice and another big flick i'm sure she enjoyed that yeah immediately in with a heel hook no hesitation from her [Applause] so squatting down on that volume getting a nice rest with our that straight arm molly was talking about earlier she locks that in using all of her back muscles as well as the arm muscles which way would she do this right or left crosses with the left oh no thinks differently of it probably feeling quite confident after nailing that jump as well and of course she hasn't seen the athletes other athletes climbing so she doesn't know that she's just done something quite unique and it looks like she's setting up for another pop here i think she's gonna go right hand what oh no well she pushed her luck all the way didn't she really she did definitely chose the most exciting sequence i think but unfortunately i think a little shorter than ryu and maybe that's why alexandra was forced to go big basically for that undercut yeah she's a bit shorter right 171 centimeters alexander at 162 so quite a bit shorter then yeah actually she looks quite tall on the wall she does doesn't she when you actually meet her face to face you realize she's a bit smaller walking out to observation she was a lot smaller than i expected it's kind of like when i was younger and watched all the streams everyone looked like a giant i remember being like oh keo must be so tall and then you meet them in real life and you're like oh they're just normal first i never feel tall until i'm at a climbing competition it's quite nice right alexandra she's done that was exciting for sure she's looking to get into a highlight reel i reckon on that one and she exits the stage and ashima shirishi while she's joining us next we can see her behind that curtain a very different climber very very different well let's watch this highlight reel a huge double dyno on that move a massive swing to get around the volumes and finally her luck ran out so close really well you can see it just latching and then peeling away with the fingers there is ashima now i've watched sashima climb for a couple of years now there seems to be a calmness about her at the moment that's that's quite interesting she's very very determined very composed i think she's just psyched to be here i think speaking to her she missed the first couple comps i think and just came out for the french world cups and um also talking to natalia yesterday in isolation u.s trials seemed quite stressful pretty sure they only have one shot to be selected for the world cup season so i think a lot of them just want to have a good time make it count enjoy being out in europe exactly and they have been traveling around for a couple of months now remember when they came out and they've been going to climbing areas climbing area between world cups it's more than just world cups this tour there's rock climbing days there's coffee drinking in between rounds with other friends from other countries it is definitely just more than that so ashima getting started now she is a little shorter than the other women in this final one five four percent one five [Music] 155 actually so it'll be interesting to see how she does some of these more dynamic moves looks more comfortable than alexandra on the start she does i mean she's more experienced we saw i think it was 32 or 30 participations maybe knows that the starts of roots can be quite well you just have to get through them as calmly and precisely as possible and not rush not be too impatient to get to the physical climbing speaking from personal experience therefore yeah maybe shima currently in fourth place of course she is the fourth athlete out and ryu currently leading the way on 27 plus so a tricky women's route no one getting onto that head wall yet i'm confident we'll see a few women up there though i think we will too and ashima now she just works her way through using great footwork and it's her resting positions that's so interesting to watch she finds rests everywhere yeah a real bendy climber that doesn't go for the dino like alexandra does unsurprisingly yeah i think we all agree that was probably the wrong beater but who cares it was exciting so ashima she'll get this clip with a high left toe to steadying herself and that spotlight you can see as the sun starts to set here and brianna's on just picking her out on the wall climbing very intuitively intelligently very efficiently no cuts good clipping positions come on pops her right foot somehow saves herself let's see if she can get it back come on ashima no problems once she sorted herself out there did not change that no i was gonna say it'll be interesting to see if she lets that get to her and i don't think she will being so experienced a kid crusher used to pressure i think she'll be totally fine i mean she was fifth in brilliance on 2019 seventh last week in sharmini on quite quickly but she looks determined yeah that right hand is a sloper but conditions have changed the wind has blown through it's a bit fresher in the stadium so slopers like that won't feel as dodgy but now this big swing out right which she makes look fairly simple and goes for it pretty much first time as well which is really important come on this is the part of the wall with a lot of holds on it but we're about to reach the crimpy section which you talked about ages ago now and we should be about to see it and watch how she does this because the root setters have set this next section with a cross through move with the right hand let's see if ashima follows that beater [Applause] i think maybe ashima will opt for a very high foot yeah it's quite a far away these crimps there they are coming into shot now looks like she had a bit of a have to flick her hand around the rope a little bit there which might have put her off slightly yeah i also think maybe she knew that she didn't have too much left in the tank and so went for a convincing plus there's been quite a lot of controversial judging when it comes to the plus rule recently so it's actually definitely something that you think about when you're climbing you want to if you know you've not got much left in you you want to make sure you get that plus well if you missed our description of what a plus is earlier i'm just going to run you through it again each hold is numbered if you get a plus it means you've used that hold and the definition of that is a bit strange it means you have to shift your center of your center of mass towards the next hole and move a hand towards that hold whilst going not backwards if you're falling off and doing all those things it won't count that's the rules but it is up to the judges who works out whether they have deemed the climate to have used the hole properly and it can cause as molly said a little bit of controversy as we watch that foot pop look you can just see fantastic save [Applause] yeah let's look for that you can watch that right toe there it is just popping off the edge of that hold no stress on her face though none at all like she's walking across the street rather than cutting loose in front of a world cup crowd and they're just using her body weight her momentum to swing back and then keep her on and then this big old flick out to the right such precision with that feet with those feet yeah moves like that are always scary i often find it's actually the feet that are more scary than the hands in world cup roots never quite where you want them to be i said she flicked a hand around a rope she didn't really just looked a bit awkward because it was kind of behind the quick draw but so ashima shiroshi she moves into top position 27 plus she's drawing with ryu on hold 27 plus but due to count back to the semi-final she will be in the lead at the moment so four athletes out of eight having climbed and molly for a route that looks fairly straightforward actually it's got a lot to it yeah there's um we've already seen quite different beta options even within the first couple quick draws so i'm really looking forward to seeing what the top has in store for us [Music] yeah vita lucan is out next an absolute powerhouse one of my favorites and i'm really confident that this route could be vita's style let's see what vita lucan can do part of that team slovenia it looks very dark in that camera shot it's not actually that dark here in the stadium but the sun is starting to set vita has been so consistent this year i think every final so far yeah she's had an amazing season i mean 2019 look she tore her meniscus and acl she got back on track and then as you said just finding this rhythm with her climbing yeah veto was super impressive to come back so quickly from a pretty severe injury and as someone who has also done the same i know how hard that is and to see her in world cup final after world cup final is and in both boulder and lead she had a kraken start to the season in myring and it's pretty inspirational see the slovenian flag waving in front of the camera a very passionate team very very entertaining to watch support their fellow athletes it is good is there a gentleman in the crowd with that big flag so vita what a shot for the photographers as she looks to make this little come on vita not looking too comfortable oh it is committing this move [Music] makes it stick though uses every muscle to try and control that move as much as possible yeah she just took one kind of extra back and forth there just to compose herself for this you don't want to drop it down low and now she looks like she's gained some momentum in this route she easily makes that right hand it does look quite far sometimes you can just see she looks much more confident already than the other women that we've seen so far just in her happy place i reckon yeah and a big old tow hook there in order to get that clipping she bumps up and this is a sequence that will suit her they swing around the volume that's the right foot we saw ashima fall over vito that was kind of close but not much hesitation going for it maybe almost too confident so vita makes it through the first crux oh i say on stage she had a moment there was she oh she's pumped now isn't she yeah didn't quite find the straight arm in the undercut and it became very very physical yeah she's fighting to get some weight up her arms with that toe but they're starting to uncurl and she hasn't made the clip yet either hasn't made the clip and hasn't rested i hope she can figure something out oh probably trying to clip off the worst hold on the route so far yeah you can tell she's having to fight and down climb a little bit but still thinking and this looks good this looks much better yeah she takes a moment to recompose a deep breath up on the wall for her [Music] has she got anything left though is she of course she has look at that big shoulder press and an easy kick out right let's see oh very nice awesome climbing from peter luke the rope stretching out horizontal from that last quick draw now great body positioning to really take as much of the momentum out of that move [Music] she looks down at the clock she's got two minutes 50 to go and she's currently in third place [Applause] a classic example of how is she still on the wall yeah i mean with that down climb i thought he would have taken something out of her but she just seems to have just switched it up a bit and found another level of energy and i think this is what separates world cup climbers just that determination that fight and just intelligent climbing and decision making when you're pumped and stressed absolutely and we did see her getting stressed and then seemed to just get herself under control let's see it and she sticks the move and into the lead i think and now she needs to cross through with the right hand but this is tricky awkward for the feet now and now she's gonna have to match and the root set is a deliberately designed that right holder they can't match on it because she has to cross through that was a great fight from vita yeah shake of a head i mean that was a battle it was a journey i don't think that would have been the most enjoyable final route for her but she got it done yeah she moves into the top position at the moment with three athletes to come i reckon if you told her she was in the lead right now she wouldn't believe you [Music] yeah i wonder if she even knows yet all right let's see a replay of this so this was the move she made look very easy this reach around the volume but that right hand actually sort of slightly slipped and molly certainly jumped in and see as that happened up into the undercling rest and then this is where things started to get tense but she just found something extra yeah she looked a lot stronger on that undercut than the other women so far just a bit more bicep i think if in doubt get more bicep always the weight always the way and this is the cross root and i tell you what doing this next move is going to be tough because yeah you can match it you then got to get your right hand properly on it and pop up with the left yeah you've either got to be pretty fresh and able to just wang all the way around basically you pretty much do a one armor um on that little crimp or you're gonna have to do a bit of a dirty match wang all the way around and dirty imagine two of my favorite statements you've ever said that's amazing i'm going to nick that and use it in future competitions at least she gets herself going on this route 2001. she's had a pretty good season 10th in chamonix 12th in innsbruck and the star of moscow european championships last november exactly lead second third in the combined i mean yeah she had a fantastic event yeah it's great to see us sort of convert that potential into a final here tonight yeah part of a very strong czech team at the moment as well it's pretty cool to see martin crushing in the men's final exactly without adam andreas sometimes you think well who is in the czech team and you realize who's in the czech team and they're all so so good yeah i guess that's why sometimes these events when you're missing this big stars are quite nice because you get to appreciate the depth of talent that all of the teams that have these big stars have slovenians check this goes on british team of course molly having only just not made it to the finals here tonight and i know you were disappointed with that so i'm sorry that's okay hopefully next time at least i'm here huh absolutely and it's nice to have you in the boxes at least get well she gets through that first part easily and that big right hand we saw ryu struggling with that a little bit but no issues from her [Music] ella always looks pretty chilled she's great at a straight arm rest so she works her way up towards this first dino move [Music] molly that tow hook i mean it looks it looks awkward to be honest but why are they doing that kind of a move in that position i think it's it's quite a big hold i'd say and even just the tiniest bit of relief from one of the hands would be very helpful it looks like the best clipping position as well but she's moved through this section super nicely well i was saying she kept a right foot on that hole that we saw ashima slip off through that part and is actually resting before the undercut and looks pretty comfortable [Applause] yeah she's seeing if there's a knee bar there you can see it just fiddling around with it i don't think is that she got it i think she's almost stacked her knees there that's oh that looks like a neba yeah look she stacked her knees up oh has she stacked and it's hard to tell for that angle but she's certainly getting pressure on the knees [Music] so crouching down on that volume about halfway up the wall nearing fifth position at the moment moving quickly though yeah 325 on the clock using all of her core there in order to catch that side pull undercling thing with the left see uh deciding what to do oh jumps down with the left hand and just catches the slopper let's see uh six this moved pretty solidly though yeah and big shake out with the left hand it was pretty left hand intensive that section and i think ella will like this next section yeah she's good on crims it's funny because these crips are actually fairly good holds but with the angle of the wall the fact you've just done all that physicality it means your fingers are uncurling on them yeah i remember watching ella in qualifications and she's really good at latching onto holds when she's pumped so and she's getting a pretty good rest in right now so maybe she's not even that pumped with a bit of a knee bar too yeah pressing that right knee in taking the weight off her shoulders she's really using this moment to shake out as the other women watch on nervously peter lucan currently in the lead with 29 right here we go it's a big move this up to a small crib has she rested enough will she be ready [Applause] looking pretty solid [Applause] goes over and i think we might i think she's going to just jump straight through there's the jump in the swing and the first place position for her and already our first medalist exactly yeah true guaranteed a bronze medal at this point still looking pretty good as well so she has to turn the lip from the overhang remember she's been at 55 degrees for a couple of minutes now a minute 26 on the clock come on oh that was close similar hold to the men's semi-final yes in fact the same hold for the men's semi-final flipping ahead which is a good sign tiptoes that healing locks it ah look how bad that crimp is i mean it was a bad crimp she had a lot of pressure you could just see popped at the last second that was a good effort to hold it and i think she knows that that's her first world cup medal first final first world cup medal that is a wonderful moment as she faces the crowd the spotlights the thousands of people watching at home and she can now say that she is an ifsc medal winner and you can see how that how much it means to her what color will it be well we'll find out soon the crowd on their feet [Music] money that was a bit of a master class that was she had didn't even have a heel on anything on that volume [Applause] yeah a really good fight i mean how is she holding on to that watch the pop here you can see there is unfortunately hand ripped before she was able to properly jump up towards the next hole but i'm not sure she was in for holding it no those pops tend to happen won't happen when you're a bit fatigued so lucha rakovitz she comes out onto the stage if you're new to climbing watch how this lady rests uses her flexibility it's not all about strength about using your body in the best way possible and she is an expert at it yeah i wonder if we'll see a splits on the wall again every time she does a split i cringe a little bit like certainly not as flexible she's 20. narrowly missed out on an olympic place she's a good boulder she was ten in my ring at the beginning of the season and she's already made two finals in lead this year she was seventh in villa's eighth in innsbruck [Music] slight head like hiccup last week in shamany didn't quite didn't make the finals yeah that was definitely a surprise i think [Music] but she got her revenge last night on a slightly easier semi-final route again but she got to the top and i know how hard that would have been for her in iso we were i guess a little disappointed with how slow the competition was going we knew that we basically needed a top or close enough to get into finals um it was i think iluji even said uh this is deja vu um but she made it happen and i'm really really happy that she got her revenge on last week so she goes up there with fairly big moves and down climbs all the way maybe just yeah you can see a little shake of her head i think excitement got the better of her there a little bit perhaps but knows to commit a little bit more this time [Music] nice pot just makes that stick though she hasn't got the clip in yet now she does but lucha is very experienced and i'm sure she won't let that face here on this women's final we had the men's earlier than sebastian hellenko for joining us with me my name is matt groom and i'm with molly thompson smith at the moment as we watch our second to last athlete lucha rakovitz from slovenia doesn't need the tow hook just gets flexi and that's what we were chatting about isn't it i mean look at that technique she's just so smooth and efficient climber i just love watching yeah totally different style from vita lucan's thuggery sometimes just static that move lucha look at that heel position as well toes pointed into the wall three minutes 58 on the clock at a six slightly committing sequence this we know there's a rest coming up and here it is has clipped this clip nicely out with the right she'll use all of her core here oh and call required she just reached for it and now this karate kick style move out to the right [Applause] 170 centimeters and you can see that reach making a difference for that move that was pretty cool peter has already set herself up nicely for the next moves yeah currently looking very strong in fifth position three minutes on the clock also very good on a crimp so i think she's full crimping that sloper right now oh but she went up with a huge dynamic move shakes her head sometimes it's just not your route yeah you would have thought that perhaps she should have upgraded a left foot something because she decided to make a very big jump up to that crimp i mean i think she just she almost looked like she was over it if i'm being honest yeah well we'll see a replay in a moment of what happened there but it won't be a medal for lucha today maybe more pumped than she looked often oh here we go [Music] because the thing is she's jumping from the bottom foot and she has to go around the volume when she does it i think her foot slips just as she's kind of latching onto the crimp maybe not enough pressure through that foot yeah everything just getting in the way at the same time there i think i think you can tell a lot um of how it was going by the climber's face as soon as they are off the wall and she was pretty relaxed already so that makes me think that maybe she wasn't really really fighting right natalia grossman i tell you what it's fascinating watching natalie because she walks around the stadium and she's so focused she's in her own world and she comes out onto this stage in the final and suddenly that smile lights up her face this is where she is born to be yeah you can tell she's enjoying every second of this experience she's won in salt lake city for the bold ring having a quick read of the route just refreshing her mind i think observations with men and women at the same time right so it means it's actually been quite a while since the women viewed this room i know coming out third from last yesterday in semi's a whole two and a half whatever hours after doing my observation i couldn't really remember what the route was like if i'm being honest so that 40 seconds that you have on the floor definitely worthwhile to have a read and remind yourself of what you've got to do let's talk about pressure for a sec because she came second in charmany she's certainly one of the favorites to win here tonight and she'll know that as well yeah i think natalya just has such a strong mental game that and well you can see the smile on her face whenever she's climbing i really don't think the result matters to her which is one of the best ways to approach competition climbing she's just here for the experience for the fun for the climbing yeah and she's been picking up gold medals awesome maybe it's not too hard to do that when you're just smashing it and you're on the podium every weekend but i don't know i'll let you get i'll let you know once i get there exactly you tell me because i certainly never will well that's the women who have climbed so far the mountains are brian sonnet in the background silhouetted it's funny natalya she's told me that she hates tow hooks so i doubt we'll see her use this um toe hook a bit higher up see that is the athlete input i want to hear natalie grossman doesn't like toe hooks which really surprised me because she's a bowler athlete and i feel like tow hooks are like an essential skill when it comes to bouldering i've certainly seen her use him yeah but maybe it's like she's pretty good at them but she just prefers a heel hook or something you know yeah i'll do it but i don't want to classic pro climber well she uses that toe hook now in order to get this clip there you go she's confident she is confident she's just training those weaknesses and look at the flexibility there that split move up left yeah nice and relaxed but also can keep the tension i think that's really important on moves like that oh a nice little undercut intermediate there to break up that move yeah and hardly popped at all just reached around the corner really so a left heel on a hold right foot just pressing onto the surface of the wall [Applause] she gets the clip in and she'll milk for this rest a little bit she's got plenty of time at 350. looks focused i'm psyched i think i'm about to see it go down will she push ashima off that third position she's the final athlete out here tonight [Applause] straight with the foot over yeah we've seen some different methods she's just almost iron cross locked off that right arm and just flicked her feet through no big swing ah super chiller on this move [Applause] yeah she's looking good at the moment but let's see how she does this will she do the big jump taking a little rest just enjoying the moment she's vibing out with the crowd [Applause] what a season we're having i'm so enjoying watching these athletes at the moment a rest before this cruxy little sequence okay here we go easy yeah directly to it and now she goes under and for a match pops out well an italian jumps into second position she'll be gunning for gold though she's about to turn the lip let's see if she can get anything back once it gets a little bit less deep side pulls coming up you can see next to that clip that vertical hold just a bit of a fumble with the clip hopefully she's able to rest a little bit and recover checking out the time so hopefully that's a good sign yeah i think she'll probably know that the other athletes haven't topped but she'll know someone's got close so she'll want to go as far as possible doesn't opt for the heel oh that's going to be interesting let's see what score she's awarded for that right currently on our leaderboard she's in second place with the silver medal and i think that's a win forever wow well we wondered what color it was going to be for elisa adamovska and it looks like it's going to be gold i mean she was thrilled with just a medalful stop i can't imagine the reaction when she finds out that it's gold it looks like natalie's been awarded 35 plus for this at least get 36. [Music] yeah elisa is looking shell shocked there she looks knackered she was saying it's been a long season already and she's excited for the tutor block competition that she's going to do in the next couple days and a bit of time in innsbruck and then finally going home and recovering prepping for world champs let's see natalya's top of this route that was the crux sequence of this wall which she made look really lovely there just bumping up with the left and that was the final slap up to the crimp so close to a goal for natalya but a silver well she'll take that for sure a slightly less secure method for that hold but yeah ella very very very happy [Music] uh yeah she can't believe that can she if you yeah as you said money you thought she was going to get onto the podium she would have been ecstatic gold medal i mean i think she was pretty gutted to have missed out on the gold at european championships but here we are world cup gold medal i think she'll be happy with that molly i'm going to say goodbye to you and going into these athletes i just want to remind everyone that molly will be commentating at the olympics very soon molly best of luck with that thank you you're an absolute natural i'll see you soon thank you very much [Music] [Applause] foreign um [Applause] foreign and [Music] [Music] foreign [Applause] foreign [Music] you've just won a medal and not only that it's a gold medal how are you feeling right now i just really i can't believe it i'm i i think i'm dreaming or this this is my first final ever like my climbing felt like so smooth for the first time ever climbing on a world cup and it was unbelievable watching you out there today everyone at home is going to be so proud of you did that root suit your style or was it just your day it actually didn't suit my style i'm just like an endurance climber and it was so like a risky and powerful route i don't know how it happened really well look enjoy tonight you are a gold medalist your name is in the history brooks congratulations thank you so much thank you [Applause] well what a competition we've just witnessed as the podium gets itself set up on the stage elise get overcome with emotion there such an incredible moment for her first medal and it's a gold on the lead world cup so let's look at the results one last time as we get confirmation of all the scores stefano gisolfi he leads the way for the men followed by dimitri fakhirianov and martin stranick they are our medal position places sean bailey sasha lame and fedia samolov alberto gina's lopez and luca potter in eighth position great men's final no tops but what a fight and stephanie gasol for using magic in his hands to stay onto that wall how he did that move i will never know what an incredible moment that was in front of this brienne song crowd looking at that list of names so many stars stefano gasoli taking a victory a gold medal to add to his extensive collection and for the women i just talked to her eliska aramovska she's won here in brian song followed by natalie grossman in second position and vita lucan she picks up our final medal in third ashima shirishi she comes in in fourth ryu nakawaga in fifth luchika rakovitz lana scusic and alexandra and what what a run alexander topcover had i talked about a highlight reel a double dino when no other athlete put in a double dyno great competition all round shame not to see any tops but when the fight is that good i don't care fantastic performance from everyone here tonight and of course over the last couple of days we had the para climbing at the beginning of the week i became a wee couple of days ago i should say followed by the semi-finals and tonight's finals that's the crowd do they just wait for the athletes to be introduced onto the stage they've really been getting behind everyone here tonight it is a festival style atmosphere [Music] absolutely packed right now here in the stadium and it is great to see an audience allowed back in we've had events where it's just been the athletes and it has been good all the athletes offering their support to each other but let's be honest it's all about having a crowd we get a little bit of a break in world cups now slovenia being the next one and a small matter of a youth championship before that in moscow the moscow world championships that's been confirmed fairly recently so don't worry there is plenty of climbing to go but we do get a little bit of a break so you can recharge your adrenaline glands because i don't know about you but mine are empty at the moment there it is the podium one two and three three third best three best athletes on the night well they get the chance to stand on that podium and i mean just looking at elisa just now when i interviewed her you could see it in her eyes how much that meant to her she just couldn't believe it that's the japanese team always a strong presence here in these world cups a lot of depth to their team and of course they'll be climbing in that home country in tokyo for the olympic games no spectators allowed there in the olympics but i can't wait to watch that combined format final to see which of our athletes will be crowned olympic champion just saying those words seems unbelievable climbing is in the olympics roman de grange there he is he stopped competing fairly recently and he's now taken over coaching duties sasha lehmann sits with his swiss team the wait continues for sasha for his next gold medal [Music] just want to say a big thanks to the whole team that works tirelessly behind the scenes from the people who bring you the images that you're watching right now the mcs everyone involved in the world cups thank you so much for all the effort you put in you make it all worthwhile for everyone and the athletes and of course you watching back at home so here we go award time he received the goal tonight [Applause] he picked one up in chamonix earlier on in the week and he's got another what a runner form that man is having [Applause] [Music] dimitri steps into second place he came out of nowhere in this competition and for a long time it looked like he might actually win before stefano finally climbed higher to get the goal but fantastic performance from dimitri he'll be proud of that [Applause] great to see some new names on the podium as well or old but new names perhaps i should say with dimitri experienced but new names and finally stefano gisolfi from team italy [Music] he receives his gold medal again reminding the world that he is one of the very very best a lead specialist [Applause] and a gold medal before we go into this little break period [Applause] and now we wait for the national anthem of italy to be played but first of all the dj bangs out the music stefano raises his trophy to the crowd you can see his eyes flicking everyone watching let's listen to the national anthem [Music] oh [Music] [Applause] oh [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] oh [Music] [Applause] [Music] the italian crowd singing along as stefano gazoffi is crowned champion of priyan song they'll gather at the top of the podium taking a moment together stefano isn't overly emotional i think there's a tear in that man's eye and so there should be he should be proud of himself fantastic performance from stefano grabbing the gold here in brienne [Applause] so we wait the women's podium and a couple of minutes the athletes entering through those doors you can see on the right and left of the stage they put a curtain in earlier this evening so the athletes were waiting behind it we could see it from our commentary box it was interesting before the eyes of the world was on them how they were if they're composed nervous waiting behind that curtain to be introduced [Applause] so the women almost ready they're being lined up behind those curtains about to come out under the stage [Applause] there's the music [Applause] [Music] so here they are our top three women from tonight matty grossman oscar and vita lucan our medalists here [Music] unleashed all of her power on this route here tonight battling her way through way past the point where she should have fallen off she fought so hard digging deep and her reward is that bronze medal [Music] and you can hear the slovenians in the crowd cheering her the united on of america natalia grossman another medal to her collection what a season she's having i'm sure she'll be looking forward to some rest now for a couple of weeks anyway [Applause] and finally she will step onto the top place of the podium it means everything to her and it's a gold medal imagine that first medal and it's gold here in france unbelievable that is an image a picture that will last for a long time in my [Applause] memory wait for the national anthem [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] well i will admit to having a little tear in my eye as i watch that the amount of dedication hard work training blood sweat and tears that goes into being one of the best sport climbers in the world it's hard to really fathom the battle that these athletes have to do gold medal for elizabeth and a fantastic end to our competition here in briansson the party will go on long into the night and the lights on the wall they're kicking us off thank you so much for joining me here tonight i've loved every second of it i will see you very soon for more ifsc action in the near future have a wonderful night everyone goodbye [Music] so yeah so [Applause] you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 196,669

Rating: 4.9326048 out of 5

Keywords: Sport, Climbing, Sport Climbing, Climb, Rock Climbing, Climbing Gym, IFSC, Competition Climbing, Lead Climbing, IFSC World Cup, FFME, France, Briançon, Briançon World Cup, IFSC World Cup Briançon

Id: Zr8lbADTDus

Length: 139min 15sec (8355 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 18 2021