Bloc Summer Youngsters U12/U14 | Bloc Summer Graz 2021

catalina [Applause] is [Applause] [Music] hello ladies and gentlemen welcome to grouts we're having today the youth finals youth 12 and u14 my name is david patterson and i'm here with ben hunt right helena hello berhad hello everybody we are he's going to be posting with me and guiding you to this final of the youth 12 news protein they had uh qualifiers this morning in the climbing wall of all the club where you been hardware having a look at how they were doing how was it the first qualifying run for these years holy final rounds u12 always exciting because i guess the hardest age group to set the span is so big so so much strong young athletes and you really don't know what you get when you're setting those classes true i mean the morphologies are a lot smaller and also they're quite variety as we can see in the athletes some of them are quite tall like like for example um i guess yeah a good example is one of the taller athletes and then we have another one from star mark which is really a lot a large order but yeah and in the end you just want to give every climber the possibility that they can do the boulder can work their way around and do you think it was a set of a hot set of boulders for them in the morning or they hadn't lived in the easier side it was proper i mean we had tops on four of the five qualifiers for us so for qualification around quite proper and yeah we'll see what he put up in the finals yes um we had a lot of competitors actually in the morning i think it was 16 um female and around 24 on the male athletes and the youth 12 and 11 qualified this is um one more than what it normally would be can you experience a little bit why are we having 11 instead of 10 that we would normally have this time it's different because uh we had the summer sessions in june and july at all gyms in syria uh where the where the broad audience could qualify for the semi-finals for these masters so we had one boy and one girl in each age group that they can go directly to the final and keep the qualification around yes if somebody has a little bit of a question what's going on here in kratz we are under the pacquix box summer um motor this is because this year grass was um the city of the sport and yeah big sports here from the city so we had a huge chance huge opportunity to make this event happening i mean we already had a wonderful evening yesterday with the states championships nationals uh it was an exciting show and today the youngsters are upstaged and it already makes fun to see them come in and have the smile on their faces yeah they have so much excitement yesterday we had around 1 800 people watching and cheering all these young athletes in the vlogs of a masters in the blog in the summer nationals sorry yes and we had mustaches yeah we have uh francisca who dominated the whole round and joanne luca posh but today we have the younger ones these are the future generations and they are quite happy as we can see to be able to compete here in the middle of the city in grouts and there and i guess for all of them i mean they are under 12 it's a huge opportunity they they get the same stage as the professionals the idols uh here we got one of our favorites in the class yes that was mr leitner yulin who already planned several a days here in austria and yeah he's proper one of the one of the favorites when it comes to the men he actually got the best score and as we see here we are having the female athletes with the different countries where they come from and they are having nonetheless but a minute two minutes of observation per boulder and we were having a setting with four boulders and four minutes per boulder and that's the normal final mode exactly as the adult and we will have no excuses there and we were having we will be having one female and one male at the same time coming out per time and those are the young athletes checking and discussing options and different solutions yeah different solutions i mean with the ladies i i'm gonna call them ladies because they are they need to behave like grown-ups on the big stage they start with a slap tricky pressing and the boys on the left side go for the overhang uh we'll see how much their morphology comes in yeah could you explain us a little bit what um you guys attended because you were one of the root centers for the youth team um what was the intended idea in this man's one please um this one with a big black hole the chuck uh you should you don't see it actually now because they stand in the front of the big foot bubble where you start you put a big swing grab the undercling and go over in those big round chucks kind of chucks the left one is a little chuggy right one rudder rather creepy creepy sloppy and then powerful way to the top um yeah side pull under king crimp good body tension get up and just get to the top yes and will be a dynamic move we can see there are quite a lot of holes you guys have had to do some adaptations because these boulders are going to be also for the u2 uh the u14 right yeah exactly so the old white one is for the u14 and white and black holes are for u12 it's a similar theme all over the whole round because we just have a little bit more than 20 minutes to spare between the vinyls so both boulders are already in exactly for the time of logistics you will have to adapt some boulders it's not viable otherwise to do it yeah so both are in and the u12 can use [Music] all the holes that are in but the tops are different know we have just been granted the tablet to keep scores updated for you guys and girls so we can keep you up to date and that's the female 2 can you please run us a little bit it looks like more dynamics yeah way more dynamic actually just two sections first one run in curious if the bigger ones can press it out so make it a huge shoulder span um and the smaller ones have to do like a one two step grab left right hand compress it stabilize the position and then they go up i mean they also can help themselves with the left volume yeah maybe they find the toe hook there and from there on pressing the side pole getting the good crimp and one move with courage to the top uh oh rather to the big bowls and then it's an easy move to the to the top a huge slope there yeah it looks it's also it's always funny when you set the big slopes for for kids hands are so much smaller and the other way around if you set tiny crimps for the kids yeah you have to be a little bit careful with the jacks and they can always get to just the blank wall yeah how would they deal with it when it comes to sets good we will see some tops on this too when when it comes to set for uh children of this caliber you have to be careful with the fingers that they don't get injuries because an injury on the fingers at this age could cause several problems but also when they're climbing they're on really hard boulders you have to where is it like the the barrier where whether you draw the line the good thing is uh we've been sitting with patrick sommer and fabian loy both train the youth cars patrick summer in hysteria and fabian loy in tyrol and they get a good feel how strong the stronger athletes are and when you try to adjust your test a lot obviously there's always root setting without testing yeah it's not going to work yes the root centers on the youth team have been as bentley was saying patrick summer fabian leo anya seven egg from um from slovenia on yourself how was to work with the women i guess this brings a lot of um a different spectrum into when it comes to ideas she's also a little bit smaller she has different abilities is it nice to have a women in the team or do you think that it doesn't make any difference i does obviously because um just for for example just going the difference between crimson slopes and if you have smaller fingers you just can hold smaller crimps way easier and the difference is with the slopers you need to compress you need the big span or pick pinches it gets tricky so if you have somebody on your team who has a different variety of hands and sizes it's the same for small and for big also it's always good to have somebody who is really big on your route setting team because then you can check out if they can cheat if the tall guys can really cheat it yes talking about compression uh can you run us through these men's ball three please yeah man three they're gonna need a lot of body tension there because sloppy side pools i mean they're quite good but all side pulls always pressing with the feet against the barn door and then when they finished after those three side poles they go up to this there are two crimps uh crimps here sparks mounted on the big cheetah volume where the zone is and i guess if they get to the zone they will make the top yes if uh somebody's the lower part they will need a lot of body tension to stay in we'll see how that shoots them yeah if somebody is wondering um what why they are not trying to grab all the other holes they're only able to touch the first four holes which have a piece of tape those four tapes represent the four limbs like the two arms and the two legs and when you start you have to have a proper you can decide where you place your legs or your feet but you have to have a control start every single time starts counting as soon as you leave all limbs from the floor and this current system works you get two main different points the first is the zone which is awarded a little bit higher with a pink tape like we're seeing now on top of this young athletes the big round hole with a pink tape you get a water for this point and then the very last hole to the top that is the top hold and for this you get the most of the points and the scoring system works really easily the most tops gets the most points if we have to separate the climbers then it goes down to the number of zones if we still would have to separate the climbers it would come to the number of attempts they took them to get to the top if then we still have to separate them then to the number of attempts it took to the zone and if still not undecided not decided then we would have to go for con count back to the previous round uh we have been just reported that the composition will start four minutes later there's some last adjustments that they have to do and that was the observation for all the athletes they will go back into isolation and then we will have one man and one women's athletes coming on every single four minutes then we'll have four minutes of rest and then they will go back again hello [Music] [Music] number three for the women he's doing a little adjustment probably maybe there is some kind of like little hole that he's covering so that they don't thump that you don't use the thumb or stick the finger yeah that's actually something i forgot fabian has to put in the effort for me i was putting up the hole but all those bolt holes are really nice one finger pockets and here we see gail palmer he will be helping us to guide you through the u14 and he's taking a look he was this morning qualifying for the semi-finals that we will be transmitting tomorrow in the morning and then in the afternoon we will have the finals of the block summers and we are already going to the mid of this whole four days of competitions started with the austrian masters today we're having a youth team and tomorrow we will have the u16 and the block summers where is an international competition and people like the caliber of style geo or fanny jivette or jamberton and sandra lena for example they will be joining tomorrow and we will be able to see all these big and strong athletes not only the women but also the men and those are the minutes left till we start to 50 on the clock how have you been dealing with ski in bernhard setting a lot of problems and testing i mean it's not like you're testing for yourself you're testing for children so you have to be adjusting a lot um how do you deal with skin temperatures like this it's been boiling today the whole three days has been absolutely warm i think the finals on the river blood itself are very hot bad bad for the skin just bad so you get the pinkies after the first days and then you try to tape try to keep on ah skinny's skinny is not there anymore do you set the boulders for the younger ones a little bit easier to the hot uh to the older ones you just do adjustments in referring to the size of the expand the arm spawn tough to talk about easy when you go about comp holders because they are strong u12 guys and the girls so we wouldn't say easy um and a lot of i guess a lot of grown-ups will struggle on those boulders and here we are seeing the list of the u12 uh the men's we're starting with gravity clay then material julian plieger fear grouper simon peter rafael hubman george more than one minute we will start our finals of the youth men and youth female for the block summers taking place here in graz on the east city of austria we're in the county of syria uh the day is pretty good the conditions have been softened a little bit down it was really warm and now it has been raining a lot a little bit a little bit a little bit of breeze also it was good like one hour ago it put the humidity out of the air hopefully these holes didn't get too warm and the conditions are pretty okay so hopefully we're gonna see tops where is your money ben hard who are you betting for oh i don't bet but if i would have to for the boys obviously julian yeah also darion was in the in the qualification dukatarian it was quite convincing we'll see what he puts up yes and we start now with katarina orange if someone is wondering how overhanging the wall is if we start from the very very far right where catherine is starting that's like a slap and it's the one that has got a negative angle and as soon as we move slowly to the left to the middle we have a slight overhanging moving to the far left where clay i'm like a gabriel is starting that is the most overhanging with a 30 degree and here we go with the first start let's see what he can do out of it let's see if he needs to jump or if he can match it he will probably have to jump a little bit more he's a little bit shorter and not been able to reach for anybody we will have a little bit of a split screen so that you all can follow each athlete uh properly on every single boulder let's see if he goes for a bit more of a jump he tried to reach it statically but couldn't quite make it play i'm like a gabriel this time he was a lower closer yeah we're getting there and here we go katarina sorry to disturb you uh catherine has just reached the zone but just slipped out that was looking pretty promising don't forget to be able to get awarded a zone or a top you have to control and utilize uh the whole for the zone you have to utilize it and for the top you have to have it in a stable position with both hands until the referee gives you the green light that you have topped the boulder yeah katarina not quite able to move over and get the right direction to push on this zone hold i don't know if your people watching know this holds quite famous cheetah boomerangs yeah and nasty nasty sloppy crimps how to put it is this this something a sloppy crimper does something like this yeah crank could be sloppy also right yeah those are all new holes they have been bought and only for this competition they will be also used in blockhouse and boulder club in newton and everybody can have a taste of these holes gabriel had a nice try i guess now he knows what to do that he needs to get up with both hands right hand left hand still a minute for these young athletes let's see if you can get awarded the zone last 40 seconds for the us athletes and get a warmer plows from the audience [Applause] he was getting really close now a young athlete from corinthia is the final right so they have to give everything do you do a lot of competitions also been hand you mean competing myself yes yes almost none like two times because i started quite late into climbing and if you start too late you can only go into settings and those were the first athletes and we will be moving with lori schultz and mateo fash for boulder number one let's see what they can do out of these boulders yeah matthias here with a huge crew huge crew lot of people from i guess they are from worker book is this correct no they are from lower austria austria not [Music] lordy foreign can do on the first ball in the slab that was looking like a disgusting small crimp yes it is all right yeah looking good now she will be awarded the zone [Applause] too excited so me and matteo not making quite enough hide in order to achieve the two holes the two 360 holes big spheres remember they had four minutes to complete every boulder and they had also previous observation when they discussed different ideas she knows how to get this zone take your time yes that's nice another nasty crimp and lori looking pretty promising here come up and there are two peppers up there yeah pushing oh falls out i guess i'm not getting will not be a wallet let's lose a little bit frustrating this young athlete you need to control it she has a minute it's for sure enough time and she knows how to do re take your rest rush everything and then get it looking really promising here [Music] and mateo flies out 20 seconds i don't think it would be enough but he will awarded a really nice round of applause 20 seconds maybe enough for laurie let's hope so let's see what she can do out of it she knows what to do and lordy falls down unfortunately not enough but she got awarded the zone same as mateo that is little by little points will make a whole score and the most that you get the better we are going to have a look at the boulder number two now um katarina and clay will be starting at boulder number two and we will also have julian plieger for the man and helena field power for the bolton number one you see men's two good fitness tests and you see little crimp little finger pocket if they get in two fingers they're just gonna hold it holding the zone on the first attempt looking really promising here come on from here is a hole to the top flies out yeah i'm not sure about the method it looks like a really really good first attempt for the first minute he has three minutes it's plenty of time but these young athletes they don't have some experience so it's nice that they start in such a young age with gathering a little experience yeah managing your power most important thing in competitions like this especially after you have had such a hard round of semi-finals or qualifiers you really want to not give everything on one boulder and those yourself for every single boulder and to know when's enough it's sometimes a little bit hard but here we go really good clay come on go get it and it's the first stop of the evening [Applause] play amla gabriel looking really strong in boulder number two that was on the second go he got the top awarded and he's for sure now leading the scoreboard oh [Music] folder yeah she needs to get way more speed into to put the center of gravity to the left of the holes pushing the square is gathering slowly more people more spectators with walking by are joining us everybody needs to have a 3g real regulation which is vaccination uh kov tests actualize or recover prove that they have been recovered and therefore they can come into this little stadium and have a look on what's going on in my opinion it's a huge stadium i mean the whole city is able to watch you technically yes i mean until today grass has not seen so big days when it comes to the climbing right not even close i mean we had some huge events our cups nationals at blockhouse but uh this is another this is different i hope and hopefully we're gonna be able to see next year but for this year let's stay here last seconds for elena she will be awarded this zone that's for sure she got the zone on her third try still no tops on boulder number one for the women for the men on the top and border number two for the man gruber and melanie will be joining us yeah mr gruber is from cucker i also made quite a solid impression on the qualifications maybe we gonna see a top on man's one yes the salzburg command young man we got a close-up on the runner hopefully we see a little bit more action on this ball get a lot of swing and you need to trust your feet you just have to commit and run over to the holes yeah and move things like this you can just have little doubts you have to go for it and see and learn from every single trial that you have done previously yeah so actually it's the complete opposite of female one where you have to go extra slow presented beautiful now [Music] is going extra slow very solid looking promising here he's a little bit taller so maybe he doesn't need so much swing and so much speed execute the zone and theo was looking not too far away from these two 360 spheres matteo choosing to brush this little pocket how many things do you manage to hilt because the last athlete that we saw clay gabriel he was able to fit three fingers i guess for you guys you only fitted one or two maximum right the pocket itself is a solid two finger pocket for a grown-up and also the crimp to the left two and a half fingers on it but for the kids i guess it's a chuck and there we see theo making use of this delivering zone nobody wanted to go for this undercling on the right it's too high until this edition you should match it and then go for the undercling okay yeah because if you go to the undercling before your body is so low i guess even for a child that is not a big hold when it comes in terms of size no and it's quite a steep wall so no presence out there there we see boulder number two let's see if she can get a little bit more speed and just slips out people cheering a lot of these young athletes in mario heather square especially colleagues they've been in the qualification together some hours ago and now they're cheering for each other yes a sport that is recently new to the world so there's a lot of friendly competitivity they're all friends they all cheer they all trade together even if they're from different counties they come and train together in the same gyms i mean it's very nice to see a friendly competition like this where the best one will be the one who wins and still the people will be happy for the achievements matthias another good attempt he went a little bit uh different than you guys found right you plan to go to the pocket with the right and cross underneath with the left exactly he elongated with the right and then went with the left we tried both methods i just figured it's there's no none of those is easier than the other so kids can choose what they prefer if they prefer the cross and get the zone with the right hand many tops on this final round let's hope there are more athletes stopping so far one top from um from gabriel clay and boulder number two already some zones have been synced and we will also have a grasp of the third boulder with grey wheel cray and catharina on board female number three joining us on the stage will be seaman peter and lotta merlander for boulder number one look at men's two looks like promising for a flash yeah for the younger thing julian plieger really strong really i need some flash looks really happy celebrating like the big guys proud performance from this young athlete from corinthia the kansas corinthians known for the awesome places like montatal famous for its boulders one yeah looking good looking really promising here i foretold melendez looking really really strong here and slips out on the last second here we have a little bit of a grasp of this compression that you were talking about exactly okay it doesn't quite stick you always fight the time with this little crimp but gives another attempt sometimes you think that these young athletes they just everybody's maybe a top one man's one just slips out of the undercling yes out of the corner of our eyes we were seeing the young athlete simon peter on folder number one almost slipping going for the last top hold and the very young athlete catherine on board the number three can you ground it a little bit through this ball that we didn't get a little bit of the talking this was a observation yeah okay serena has the i mean it's a solid climbing you got this match you got the cross you have to swing your body below and then i'm curious about the top how to figure it out it's actually possible to sit on the volume and press up into the top we will see if they figure this out and here we go gabriel again on board number three going for the crimp this time going we want you to skip it and when it comes to the ipod like this where do you decide to split um what do you think you're going to get the most splits on scores who's going to make it to the higher the bottom yeah for this course i mean the more low percentage you move is the better it is for getting the splits so on the slab we have seen the top you just have to press up very carefully on the sloppy footholds so it's hard to secure the top and if you get those slow percentage moves that's where you get the separation from the slits who is staying focused till the end let's see if the young athlete lota melander can do it this time she needs to really create a position between her feet on the hands get up yes yes [Applause] that was very well presented so you see you have to just trust your feet press up till you have the solid and stable position in the undercling in the sun press very nice for these young athletes to have an international competition what's our first top on female 1 huh yes you are correct this is the first stop we have seen we have seen already two others getting really close but not being able to come and stabilize the top hold and this was the first first stop and joining us further will be lily fisher and nonetheless bill raphael hopman on bolton number one for the female and the men yeah coming all the way from for albert quite some travel distance [Music] and lily fisher from hungary on board number one secure in the zone i believe this is her first attempt at theo boulder number three let's see because the hungarian athlete is looking really really close this looks really promising is it going to be a flash and a flash for the hungarian athlete very nice he doesn't quite hold attention and we're seeing progression the first ball of the man and flies out i guess it's really hard to stabilize this undercling on the right for the man you have to get quite high for with your position otherwise get your hips in and get them high you're getting stuck out stays so close to the wall we're seeing every time more and more people joining us they're seeing what's going on they're is young athletes the future of climbing and they're joining us this cheering and it's slowly creating a nice ambiance we're getting more people cheering for these young athletes um yes really nice in times ivs where it's been not so easy and now the regulations are getting a little bit easy in austria to have a republican to support all these young athletes in the middle of the city i guess we're going to see his top now on men's too it's not over until it's over but it's looking promising and unfortunately that's why i don't do betting the armies is quite nice right now we're having a little bit of a breeze and the sun is just set down behind the buildings so nice shade night atmosphere let's see if we can see a top from matia on board number three but he just fell down and it seems like boulder number two is getting a little bit closer to this zone hold for the females yes helena fit power was getting a lot more meters running to the left and running to the last meet he went with both hands do you think there is a holdable hold [Music] rafael giving a lot of tries to this first boulder he really wants to get a top he was getting quite close in one of his tries and we still haven't seen the top but let's see what the best ones can do it was just a very nice attempt on females too 20 seconds to go wow very strong wing really good contact people are starting to get crazier ali flies out and i don't think it's going to be enough for the players for the old proper and we will be having the next athletes joining us into this finals for the youth 12 joel stark for the man and leia clearvine from grass home athlete here who trains in blockers and for the club yeah and also the tfc i guess because she's more known for her lead experience right yeah that changes she's really really good when it comes to powerful things i don't know how she's going to be doing on the slab but her parents are climbers her brother is a climber the whole family is a climber families it's really really nice to see them when we're on the crack on on the climbing walls same here on men's two yes looking really good are we gonna see the top yes and that was a nice stop from simon peter who i believe just flushed for the number two i guess so yeah looking really happy as he walks away it was a strong try he just skipped the left crimp when i wait for the mono looking pretty promising here he's not the tallest athlete but also on the shoulders she hasn't yeah come on yeah very nice awarded perfectly start of her final round perfect study how to get the weight over the foothold she did the banana with her hips just putting her to the banana with the hips yeah i'm stealing that there's no trademark on it and let's see with lotta merlin i can do other boulder number two and the female she looks like she wants to fly against the wall and was low not very far away the german athlete yeah we see first athletes on the number four of the boulders man's four now the slab yes it's a very slow one they have to work their way around this slopey black ball gabriel will be water the zone for this what is the idea behind this um do you have to get around the corner and then just roll over this block yeah they have to go around this sloppy ball move below it and then press yourself and make a mantle over it to get to the next blue hole and this position is nasty because this black volume wow is not good at all the hungarian athlete almost stuck the dynamic move we have not seen a lot of this baldy yet but she's getting closer and she still has a minute to go really really close um the corinthian athlete of bolton number one he's on the really taller side of the way so i think he probably doesn't even need to jump reaches out gets the zone he wants to go to the undercling first oh no on the other cling come on and not quite created enough tension for the young athlete oh she stuck it and we start to see the first zone of boulder number two for the female oh and falls out just not yeah ah just one more try in here why not there's plenty of time and bonds like these we see maybe like 30 tries in four minutes no problem this time gets the crimp she needs to jump to these two slopers and doesn't get enough height the king clock was also ticking [Music] and we have the homie from blockhouse finish the daughter of shuffle channel what the main organization has to say and also we have now she's not been climbing for as many years as all the other competitors she just recently gone into the team this year but she's been making successful and notorious progress and her family is a family of climbers so i think she's going to be having quite a lot of regression in the coming years wait for this athlete and we start to see a really good approach involved in number three how we're going to see the first stop on both number three yeah she now needs to sit in yes she fancy sitting yeah easy very nice for melanie kreidler who just stopped for the number three hopefully we can see a replay out of that and the first glance at boulder number four in the a second glance of pull the number four from laurie stores from halberg yes it's also a rather powerful boulder yes we have not been seeing a lot of out of it this was set by the slovenian um right yeah exactly and yeah maybe walks a little bit through the ball if you can from from a technical point of view it's quite straightforward to make a big swing to the first first pick hold of the squadrons get the heel hook in and then you can do two ways you match with the heel hook or you go dynamic with a shoulder press and from there on stretchy move into this pocket you don't see where you see it later and if you got the pocket you get the top here we see a little bit of the overview from the top from the whole arena the whole square it's getting slowly more filled with people and there's a little bit of a breeze going around making it really nice and we are going to see before it needs to match it hey got it got it looking really strong above the number four no gimme for this young man not really able to hold it female 2 they run up last minute for this round fenian looking pretty promising here she needs to stand up and doesn't quite make it she still has 50 seconds and the young athlete too we got it here gruber also having problems with the skin it looked like he just looked at his paws and so far we have the positions on the women are on the men are flash material followed by hubman raphael and pete seaman and the first three positions and for the women try the melanie lily fisher and lotta melander let's see what finna can do out of these last seconds and also what theo can do my name is david patterson and i'm here with nonetheless elena yeah ben hardy is uh one of the organizers and root setters of boulder club yeah root setting at boulder club and when stauffer came around in spring this year and said hey the city wants to make a huge we said okay we're going to go for it let's put the biggest wall we can find into the center of grass last of the last two weeks and tomorrow we'll finish this up with a huge finals in the masters yes yeah i cannot wait i mean yesterday the whole almonds was amazing with the lights with the people with the climbers it was pretty incredible and it looks like today is going to be about the same and tomorrow is going to be the final massive start with social international competition of the big names females number three she needs to commit yeah looking really strong here the hamburg athlete lotta mia linda she has three minutes there is no rush need to rush this just needs to find the seat and we just got also joined by catharina um and jacob butcher from for albert on the balls is number one for the women and for the mail and there we see this slow start you have to move to the left she's one of the smaller athletes but it's what is she if you go for size for the athletes it's important that you have some method to do it she will do it for sure in a different way than the others [Music] and yeah very well done very well done good display of her ability of the whole body i'm for the positioning he moved around the whole just below looking really really prominent nice and we're gonna see a top on man's one first album and one and also female 1 a flash from katarina there we can see a replay of jakka butcher who got her first stop on board number one does she find this it oh not quite it's not quite a bit and there is the border number four of the women the other is taking a little bit of a pause choosing to brush the holes second little bit of arrest quite a mature altitude and ask him from some support of the public and here we're gonna see again the young lia from graz getting quite further but not quite stick in the move [Music] [Applause] giving it all yeah also seymour peter from here and we got it another top on main three i meant too sorry yeah he doesn't want to let loose off the top hold now control it for 10 solid seconds maybe there's been a technical issue we're gonna ask the churches and next rotation darian dukkha will come as long as uh as well as anna ethan [Music] and the boulder number two will be fenia china she likes quite a lot of the dynamic moves and she likes a lot of slaps also so i think he's going to be the kind of boulder that would suit her quite well and looking really really close on her first try and we also had in the qualifications one of those runners she needed four or five tries to figure it out but in the end she got it jakob looking pretty good on boulder number one and on board number three the young athlete lily who just fell down and was quite up up on the boulder sorry try on man's one [Music] do you think the athletes prefer to start with a soft slab or more like giving her moves on a very high overhang i guess powerful overhang boulder in the first section and that was the replay ball the number two he looked like he didn't understand what just happened the artery from corinthians [Music] and here we have finisher again on board the number two yes that's it there you are she just fell out on the last second and didn't get caught on camera but she was looking really really close on the border number three on the man yeah you see how strange it is looking really good raphael they have to fight their way up still no top and ball number three for the men looking like a savage boulder we have seen and almost a top on every single boulder apart from baltimore number three on the main border number two in the women and pull the number four on the women and hopefully we're gonna see more maybe another top on bowler one looks really promising but this is not over one minute 30 left for a good solid attempt finally taking a big breath and we have a really good class now i bought the number four for the women melanie traitor from lower austria not quite sticking the zone hold and on the main we have mateo followed by julian and followed by rafael on the first scores with one top and two three zones and the women we have lily fisher followed by lotto ryden and melanie cleven all of them with one top and three zones apart from melanie with two zones not so many jobs we're seeing on this round but i mean we're not over so there's a lot still to see are you quite happy with how it's going are you respecting more tops uh ben hutch still know quite happy because with the a lot of good attempts the kids are getting very close and if they're getting close someone will come along and get the top also [Music] yeah the females won we had two close two tops and now we're getting another one crazy one lady on board number three she just managed to get to the upper part of the wall she needs to see them that hold and doesn't quite stick it off her chest flashed female one she's also one of the top competitors from the qualification exactly and the last athletes anya meyer and julian lightner coming out joining the pick actually for the man that looks like darien lucca luca yeah darren is a bowler number one i guess he sticks the stone at the first try [Music] and also anya on female number three from grass looking really strong in this boulder hopefully she reads it probably she's a little bit smaller but no problem she needs to sit in that hole doesn't yes she's not going to be understanding what's going on oh she's that's not the hole she wants to go to it's not the tophold and takes a little bit of a read but in the meantime anya mayor congrats solid second try very nice expected from the second from the qualifications really really strong about the number one that would probably leave in a really high position uh putting on the pressure for julian led by nicolas with two tops and the women's uh melanie triater with one top and three zones on ten attempts and here we see again leia going for a top she still has the half of the time remaining enough time for this young athlete a very powerful athlete and hopefully we're going to see a top of any amir [Music] [Music] the athletes choosing to brush a little bit of the holes and here we see a little bit of a man's feather angle on the bounce board yeah exactly see how slow this slab is you have to fall down a little bit it's kind of like an awkward movement when it comes to climbing walking not actually falling it's just walking because you have to control this move down so much simon peter from upper austria looking really really good able to reach this tries to do what it is and get the foot on top and the idea of this is just to stand up on this volume right yeah it's quite similar to female one you need to stand up go into this side crimp and push up into the thumb press the top from the athlete very well simon peter looking really strong yeah this pushes him in first place and three zones on four attempt [Music] last 16 seconds for leia clairvine she really meant that well with the top go for it and unfortunately falls down good good try good try and last but not least one of the favorites the homie julian right now and we got the winner from the qualifications also maya anya she's also one of the taller athletes so maybe she can benefit out of this but big for her size which makes especially this crossover was a little easier get the reach no problem and unfortunately it doesn't quite stabilize it's still overhanging you still have to keep your body in you need to take care of your julian looking really strong secures the zone on the first attempt yeah that's his move stop there has to get quiet yeah just camels for it it's gonna be a flash what a powerful star for this young man who's looking into a perfect run of the finals looks a big smile yes my for the audience young athlete with a plenty of experience when it comes to the outer fields also he already did several eight days and watched for this young athlete with 10 years old duck on the zone for females too yes the athlete yeah that's the highest we have seen out of this boulder yeah it was a second trial i guess second or third and another top for yakov butcher means two the easiest but it's the one which suits which has the the more powerful athletes maybe no but the the moves themselves are not that low percentage so if you control it you can do it looking pretty strong here the athlete from corinthia but not quite reading it us it's possible to go with the heel hook especially for his size this is one of the taller ones taking another go a comparison when it comes um between leia and herself leia being more shorter athlete with a bit more experience in holding small holes um who could not have so much problem getting to the upper part of the wall hopefully we're gonna see better results out of fenia and number four lily fisher oh good attempt and last minute of this rotation so far all the athletes have tried at least one boulder and it's been followed by [Music] come on unfortunately yeah take a deep breath it's a fast boulder enough time did he take another go really need to jump from those and here we see a little bit of clouds of these young athletes jumping and running around the mud thank you for the boulders yeah the wall roots even bigger if with these young athletes and darian duke on second bottom number two yeah what do you think he managed to top the first boulder so he's probably one of the strongest competitors do you think he's going for a flash i think he should be going for a flush yeah but does he make it oh you see how strong just a croatian athlete very strong looking very very good solid yeah no way too comfortable looking like a walk in the park and goes for a flash and i believe he's gonna put him in really high position not on top of the field because he didn't finish three boulders and the best one had two new high points on man's three [Applause] come on come on go into the crimp yeah there's no problem strong performance that's the first stop we have seen them bowling which we are the highest we have seen it yeah which puts him in front i guess we got three tops now i believe so let's have a look nicolas with the only athlete to complete three tops and three boulders so hopefully it will not go to the number of attempts and here we see leia taking a little bit of a glance at boulder number four we have not seen a lot of this boulder hopefully we're going to be able to see some tops the best athlete go to the zone and try to reach the nest hold and two athletes from styria on the screen yes looking really good yeah left crimp is not so good she still has one minute thirties plenty of time and here we have on board number three the young athlete making quite a lot of progress doesn't quite stick it and they are going for another triangle number four she being on the shorter side it's not going to have it so easily to be so spun out and anya looking again quite high up maybe she will really properly she has to get with both hands she's trying to stop with the right hand on this big volume but she needs to create opposition between both holes with both hands to go some somehow a little bit static well actually she would need to push way more up i believe it's not going to be enough time i think she had enough out of this boulder as she walks away liberal frustration of the young athlete and as you can see the church behind on mariah square yeah really nice venue and let's see what julian can make out of boulder number two took darien on third position with two balls in three tries he didn't flush the first ball there didn't second go flash the second boulder julian can get on top of the scoreboard if he flashes it julian being also quite a strong of the competitors i think this would suit him quite well yeah definitely union looking really strong here i had a flash for union right now as easy as durian yeah those two boys are way ahead of the pack he gets another three minutes out of rest oh girls and it's looking pretty promising here anna at edhard from inched from tyrol she needs to sit will she sit now she does now she does no that's not the top she i mean she's allowed to use the hole but she needs to she needs to put on a red one she wants to stand up oh she wasn't top she still has two thirties she's she has enough time to top it and are we going to see a top of border number four for the men yes i think he would be awarded that was pretty short but i think he will be awarded superstar and anna ed had taken another go on ball number three already time half of the time remaining [Music] looking really really good yes already in the national team in two years now how she's going to do the top she was already there she just had to no she's sitting sitting on it and get comfortable but i don't think she's really fasting the and falls out again it's such a heartbreaking when you see like an athlete of her caliber being at the top and not being able to read it properly and therefore falling down yeah that's part of the game it's what makes a bowler competition quite funny i mean we saw one perfect top on this boulder if you go for it you get into this big hole not a lot of the tops on the female side the best was lily with one top under four zones on the man we have seen the best score with nicolas with three tops and here she goes again on ed hart looking really good on the main side for ball number three he will be awarded the zone but falls down and and i got one more try on female 3. very last try for anna edhardt oh no she sits on her hand he's so organizing to see her so close and not really understanding the whole procedure of this movement because even brutal you have to hold by literally in front of your nose but you just can't match it yes very frustrating but it's part of the game everybody has a lot of things game and ambitions the same rules for everybody applies route setters have to be you have to to put up the challenges for the athletes and daddy and duca choosing to brush every single hold you want to assure maximum friction those holes get chosen and then they get quite slippery and you have to compensate a lot with your power so you want to assure that every single hole has the maximum friction and let's see what this young croatian athlete has to do looking already so comfortable he will be awarded a zone hold on and anya mayor making progress on boulder number three he goes for it darian looking so comfortable very comfortable and i believe that was a flash unstoppable the way it develops it seems to we we have to be a little bit scared about the number one position for the man huh well so far it looks like a lot of tops to be honest um and now we have achen and nicolas on his last boulder if he tops that it will come down for sure to the number of attempts if the next two competitors get also a top on the next boulders he's also on the shorter side so this is going to be quite a far rich jump if he wants to yes [Applause] looking really strong here nicolas now up to the blocked crimp squeezing the hold yeah no problem for him looking really really really good and perfect score four tops for this young athlete from austria [Applause] he just completed he's four boulders and i believe four tries i guess five he needed uh two attempts on the first we're gonna be surely actualized so four tops in six surprises oh that's going to be it's gonna come down quite a tight competition we normally like it do you like in one when there is like the first competitor who won with four tops and three and two or do you like it also when there's a lot of tops hard to say i mean what i like what a good competition makes is if you see the athletes struggle and fight if you if you have time to get into the zone with them and i mean for now as a root set i'm a little bit scared now you should be a little nervous and here we see a glass of boulder number four and katarina not quite sticking the first it's the same for the for the young athletes i also prefer that we see rather more tops as an expectator i guess it's better to see more compared compared to the adults yesterday we were getting a little bit of an insight that as a climber you you won hard boulders you want yeah exactly and anion looking really strong here on this third boulder she has five seconds come on go it's not first to be enough it's going to be timed out unlucky but pressure's on for julian he needs to flash it to stay in the race union has got already two tops and two flashes uh he did every single ball there in the first goal and he really needs to top it on the first goal if he wants to go for a gold medal people cheering a lot of this young athlete local hero no problem on this first part union lightner has to still compose and a flash for union lightner who has no troubles on his boulder he's having a pretty good season this year he already made some podiums into bouldering and it's looking stronger than ever today here in graz in front of his home crowd but let's see what anna ethan has to do on board number four yeah i hope we finally see something yes was this plan as the hardest boulder for the females at least the most powerful yeah i mean female 2 also tough for the girls yes this was the best competitor got to and we have not seen the next hole being reached yet and that was the top [Applause] from the young athlete from for albic yeah kobusha will be awarded top but will not make into a podium he's already sitting currently in fourth position with two tops and four zones and here is again anna at on her last board of her rotation on this finals youth 12. yes she can do it come on commit so far we have lily followed by anna edd and melanie treidler so a top four anna would put him on to first position without a doubt and on the main we have nicolas followed by julian lana and ducatian it falls into the number of attempts they took to get a top you can be in the one with three tops and least amount of tries gets in second position but he has not finished his rotation so he still can get onto the lead going for the blocking approach trying to block with that one more trying it at least one more she's on the steeper part of the wall this is a 30 degree overhanging wall starts with a really nice slap on the very far right moving to the left we get a more of a hamming in view of the whole panels and this is anna going for another quick burn and i think she has time for the last birthday the rest would be better here and she gives everything [Applause] athlete looking very strong [Applause] on it and i think she's getting really tired i'm gonna be pretty much everything for her sitting second position currently round off applause for her and she gets rewarded with a big round of applause and she managed to complete one top and four zones in five attempts can darian keep on the pressure [Music] last ball for zara we have a chance for winning he needs to do it then he actually needs to flash it huh he if i should say he tries and he can be on first position this with the player only is a provisional position because if union flashes it then the best he can do is be second and the worst he can do is his third position so one more miss this first if he does it again he would be able to get into first position if he does it in two then he's going to be second at least if he does it now he would have the same amount of tries as nikolas but because of khan back he would be sitting on a higher rank but he needs to do it on this try doesn't quite stick it so the best you can do now is second is the root center i'm kind of glad i must be a little that honest yes i guess it's a tough job exactly for search small athletes and young athletes where the levels are so different also there don't have as many competitions the older ones or they have not had so many competitions so that you can more or less um guess where the levels are going to be and yeah pretty good job still for how he found out how he needs to move on this first part of this lab secures this zone and anya mayor on her last boulder we're almost finished with this competition and it's getting kind of tight to the number of tries into the man and quite tight for the female and darren gets the top on his third try this puts him into second position annie has got one top and three zones and darion having had one try more than and nicolas gets into second position so it's all about julian all these three young athletes will be on the top but the scores will be dictated by what doolin does if julian flashes it then he will be on the lead i believe if he doesn't do it in three tries he will be second and if he doesn't have four ties he will be third and anya having a last go she gets the zone that's for sure yeah it's been a long day but she has had more tries than all the other athletes so she's sitting currently on fifth position she really needs to top it if she wants to see a podium [Music] round of applause for her where she gets rewarded with the ground pulls from her chrome crown and let's see what julian can do out of this last boulder making us all sweaty making it intriguing to the last moment my name is david parson and i'm joined by bear hunt light and here we have julian the attention is big they're all in his hands and the position of the women already set lily fisher followed by anime and ania edhardt are the first three positions and let's see what julian can do secures a proper start remember that you have to control his heart he has the skills to flash it if he wants to be able to move further he's also not one of the tallest athletes so walking down would be a little bit more rigid but this place a lot of flexibility and mobility not a problem for this young athlete from blockhouse very nice zone on the first try you didn't like that looking very strong today he's looking at his own very focused it's a little bit of a movement around this 360 move massive sphere he really needs a top if he wants to be on the podium let's see on the gold party you're nice really good and i looking really good here to the top take your time that's the last step and it's a flash is it gonna be a flash it is a flash the people the whole town goes crazy congratulations julian [Applause] says hello to her home crowd there's the replay on his big smile um what an awesome performance from julian liner who was in his own little space his own league today here in front of his hometown in crowds hard effort after the other when julian gets trained by patrick summer sitting with us yes for this uh we're gonna have a little bit of a break and we're gonna be coming very shortly in a quarter of an hour it was a pleasure to comment with you yes and there we see this uh the scores the best athlete was lily fisher with one turn four tries and four zones followed by anime with one top and three tries and anna ethaard with one top and four zones so hungarians austrian austrian for the women follow down with melanie traddler leia clairvine and lotta mia linda uh thanks a lot bernhard it's been a pleasure having you and giving your inside us the root center and first time organizers it was also very fun maybe we do it again thanks a lot bye i'm gonna see what was up next for us what in finals i guess huh yes uh well we will be joined by um goodbye bye we will be joined surely by schuler more known as georg palmer the local hero also who's competing at the block summers who could have made it to the finals yesterday and that was uh ben had great delano one of the head resetters in boulder club who was also setting here for the youth team and who was giving a lot of help into organizing uh all these events thanks to all our sponsors uh the main one being verkus here in graz uh this is a public competition and without some of these sponsors it would be impossible to do such a competition like that and we will be surely at 18 30 with the finals of u14 they will have a previous observation and then they will start same format similar boulders without these modifications as you can see some of these route setters are taken out of some of these holes which were modified for the young athletes and as we were saying thanks to the main sponsors beckoos shotguards congrats turismos let's go austria climbing arthur ferran and lunchtime thanks a lot without you would not be possible some uh smaller sponsors but who also helped us a lot where derong teo grad drifted binder rock city nts and illusion holes thanks everybody here without you there would not be any possible to do such a big event like that it's been a long three months of preparations um the main organizer has been as we were said before stefan chennamon and we will lead you with some images of the researchers of the adaptations and we will be back in 15 minutes don't go take a little break go to toilet fill your drinks and we will be back in 15 minutes [Applause] um so so so so so yes foreign foreign that voice okay so so only to change let's go [Music] hello back again and this time uh i'm joined here by george palmer a professional athlete for the austrian team who is an all-rounder he considers himself more of a lead climber but um yeah having flashed a b boulder i think we couldn't say that you were an all-rounder already you can't this year your first name right yes i did last year i think last year last year okay are you setting some marks for this year sorry are you setting some marks for this year uh on rock you mean or in general yeah yeah let's just talk a little bit about it before we start with the competition we still have a little bit of uh previous adjustments so we can just introduce the people who you are so the plan is um that um the only world cup i will do will be in lead in khan on the 3rd and 4th of september so that will be the biggest comp for me this year and then i will have another the national championships indeed in the end of september and then it's back on rock for me nice and you are also going to be seen tomorrow right you qualify for the semi-finals this morning pretty solid actually quite ahead of your scoreboard so yes um we're going to see you tomorrow morning i guess yeah let's hope so how was for you with it was pretty hot every day but today in general it was a lot harder than the previous days how have you been dealing with skin and conditions ah sorry dave yeah it was quite hot today and skin was was of course an issue but yeah i tried to make use of the strength i had the power i had left and make use of every try and it worked out quite quite well cool uh let's focus a little bit on the competition because it's just about to start and the athletes are being presented we have on the man the first tobias mother from corinthia followed by maximilian wagner from lower austria followed by peter teufel from lower austria also just coming into the mats this is going to be followed by jonas vemma a local hero from syria the younger brother of anya vima they are both training a lot in blockhouse and say and then we have felix struck from southbrook [Applause] the next person coming uh it's moritz yanka from lower austria now we have ceo simon tauber from lower austria too a lot of qualified athletes from lower austria luca [Applause] and now the ones who place us first second and third third jonas better from tyrol qualified this morning followed by christian liner the older brother of the previous winner that we saw in the youth 12 also very strong in the rock field he did an 8b plus in his local car in vice event called totten no hunt and on first place alexander now from tyrol and those are the 11 qualified athletes for this final of the youth 614 and now we will jump into the women qualifiers olivia scarlett from upper austria it's just coming to the mass right now followed by florida guys winkler from tyrone [Applause] [Music] oh [Applause] from the county of corinthia will be coming there we are anja vima the sister of jonas bima local hero here from graz two siblings in finals two siblings in finals that says something about blockhouse yes it does we are followed now by portovich marusa [Applause] martin guy [Applause] and the one who clarifies us first into the qualifiers nina henschel [Applause] and those are our 11 male and female finalists in today's youth 14. they're gonna have a two previous minute observation for every boulder and then they will go into isolation and we will have one man and one woman consequently coming out every four minutes they will have a four minute time for climbing each boulder a total of four boulders and between each boulder they will have a four minute rest where they can recover themselves think about what's coming next but previously a little bit of a discussion um you've been a professional athlete and having a lot of experience um you won a lot of competitions into youth how do you think it's what is the big difference for you jumping to the big world cups [Music] yeah for me it was quite hard to to to make the step up let's say the first few years i i wanted to have like really good rankings in world cups and i was let's say a little bit a little bit used to to being in always being in finals always trying for the podium which is also part of like a really important part of the process to to fight for a win or a podium but of course yeah in the world cup it's quite quite different and it's really hard to to establish especially in bouldering these days i would say the field is stacked with a lot of really really strong athletes so yeah it's definitely a struggle and you shouldn't give up too quickly true yeah like we are seeing the most of the or the best uh at least like you said they have been winning a lot of uh youth competitions maybe you can run us through the first boulder on the men's one looks like a really flashy border without the adaptations that we had in use 12. so yeah it's kind of a new school dynamic boulder i would say with this big white lenses uh quite a do you say an eye catcher i'm not sure is this the right german so before we saw the top to the right now we're seeing it uh more to the left uh and yeah i guess the the physical the beginning is the same is it exactly the same it's a little bit different thing they they had a black uh added uh hold and now it's probably gonna be a little bit more like a lambada movement where you have to swing to the left yeah yeah it might be right and then maybe a physical physical top out which is going to be hard let's hope are you fan of like dynamic movements i mean you're quite renowned for being quite good into coordination movements have you been born with it also yourself um i'm i would say i'm a fan in that sense that i like doing them it's always fun um when you when you stick a move like that or when you adapt fast in a competition and you learn fast but of course um as i'm climbing on rock a lot as well i'm also a fan of just pulling really really hard so yeah i guess the the right amount of of every style makes makes it for me in a competition it was pretty impressive we didn't get a replay of the qualifiers today but there was a third folder where you just completely crushed the sequence there was meant to be a one two three and you just managed to do something that the root setters just had no idea and they had not planned at all really no no no and yeah pretty impressive to see um from an athlete like you and yeah talk us about it uh border number two this is a little bit of a run so you're quite familiar with it uh you mean the female yes too yeah so you have to gain a lot of momentum in my opinion and get your center of gravity like all the way to the left in order to be able to hold that to hold that side pull and maybe even a total catch what do you think on the on the lower lower volume would make sense to me it wouldn't make sense and then yeah you have the zone hole we just saw one of the athletes like doing the toe catch they got it faster than me yeah we didn't see any top on the on the u12 hopefully we're gonna see a little bit more of the bolden u14 also it was a little bit of a reaching move with very poor footholds at the bottom um these athletes been a little bit taller maybe they're able to get a bit more of it how important do you think is a a little bit of an observation and a little bit of a talk between the athletes when it comes to severe hard baldness like that um i think i mean i personally like observation a lot a lot better than just being by yourself on the meds because it's just more social i would say and it's just a lot more fun to be able to discuss the boulders afterwards that's true in iso so let's say for some at least observation is also kind of an advantage because some athletes are just a little bit smarter or faster in in getting the beta right yeah so i would say in observation you can be saved and let's say from from athletes that just uh get it more quickly of course on the mats it's always a different um it's a different game and um you still have to execute and you still have to make the right decisions or adapt quickly if the beta doesn't work out but yeah i definitely enjoy observation you've been also a root setter in blockhouse do you think it has helped you a lot to understand movement i would say yes um i think setting yourself gives you a different idea about bouldering about what the builder is about and what you want to kind of force in a movement so yeah it definitely helped me the female 3 looks really interesting it looks like a little bit of a first fit where you have to dab this little cream underneath the big jerk yeah yeah i think we just saw this woman little girl yeah it looks like in the youth 12 they try to make uh the top just to be able to control the toe that you would clamp your hip against the big holes into the volume the upper volume covering the walltopia logo but not many athletes managed to understand the problem do you think we're going to see the same or is going to be more like standing and pressing against to be honest this motor looks brutal in my opinion really powerful and uh yeah it's going to require a lot of body tension to do the feet first move like you said and then the crimps look really bad and also the top press i'm excited to see what they're going to show us on the mat yeah well bent i was saying they're young athletes so they have smaller hands it's it's smaller fingers so hopefully they're not so small for them and they can hold them yeah and now jumping on to border number four for the men there's a little bit of a walker to the left but they took some of the holes at the wheel at the lower part so it doesn't look like you have to work downwards uh also they removed the crimp so now you have to kind of do a run and jump to the first volume and just hold the position because i think the upper crimp it's not holdable it's just for touching yeah definitely just both thumbs and i believe as i was seeing before with bernhard that you have to roll over onto this black lens at the bottom maybe we can get a little bit of a lower angle on the camera and you have to stop with the right hand on this little cream there you are we can see with the zone hold marked on pink you want to roll over with the left palm and hold the right and probably your body is going to swing to the left and then is another dynamic move to a press of both uh spheres at the top uh looks pretty pretty cool boulder are you kind of steeper or more slavic first of all i'm quite impressed on how you analyze this boulder i had a lot to say about it i can't really decide but i would say usually in a competition i do the less deeper once more quickly but yeah it's kind of a running joke actually all right and i don't have biceps such as canoe slabs but i hope it's it's not true not entirely true oh well you look pretty strong on the overhanging part today so and for climbing any i guess you have to also be strong to be on the best on crims more than on sloppers but all right yeah seven seconds to go for the last rotation uh for the observation and these athletes will now go into isolation and we will be having the first two athletes tobias madder from cairinthia and libya's fellows from upper austria where is your money on georg we have seen many people betting i want your bets i have actually no idea i mean the julian was really really confident and looked really strong like actually it looked like he his level was slightly above the difficulty of the roots so um yeah i'm excited to see his brother um he's definitely i mean i don't know every detail about the other athletes but i would say on rock he might be the strongest or i'm pretty sure he's yeah we don't know many um athletes even in the world of his age being able to climb so such a higher level of of performance like a b plus on the rock and yeah i hope to see a lot of out of these young athletes especially himself being quite ahead you know he's been on the top of the field for the last year or two making increasing uh progression into the grades um i guess we're gonna see a lot out of this athlete yeah we're gonna i can expect a lot i would say let's see what you can say hello to the camera we got a camera today we didn't get one yesterday and you can see gary palmer here city to my side thanks a lot for joining me and that's the score and the people who are going to come out we have several austrian and slovenian croatian and spanish into this international competition olivia scala followed by flora gunsvinclair mara matit matutinovich uh nina henschel those are the 11 athletes uh on the female side they qualified for today on the men's side we had mara tobias maximian wagner peter teufel jonas vima felix nook moritz yanka simon tauber luka nindel jonas bada christian leitner and alexander we haven't placed our bets on the girls what do you think well there's a spanish girl so i'm gonna go for the spanish girl easy choice for you what about you i mean i have to go for the local hero i would say so you're going to go for anja vemma of course okay i'm going to go for a quiz liner and uh yeah martin let's see what they can do and the temperatures are cooling down we're getting a little bit more of a breeze the sun is not flushing at all and from here we can see a very beautiful view of the schlossberg the schlossberg tower like an iconic placing grass if anybody's in grass i recommend them to get to the top you see the river moor you see the whole city we're in the eastern side of austria in the city of graz because graz is being nominated as a 2020 war city of sports and very surely very shortly we will start with the competition gerk how have you seen the olympics i have to raise the topic and that's the schlossberg for everybody i actually really enjoyed watching the olympics especially because there was jesse and jacob in finals which was thrilling to say the least i was watching it with santiago the guy we work with and he is also really really excited and um i made a short video clip of us just freaking out when jesse climbed the lead route so yeah and of course um the format is something that a lot of athletes and can be criticized but in general i would say it's a big chance for it was a big chance for climbing and we made use of it yes yeah yeah i hope it keeps on the simula friendly competition that we're having to be honest uh climbing not being such a big sport as for example football and yeah i hope that it keeps really well for and for a good side we see a bit of progression in this sport [Applause] and here we come with the first athletes if somebody is wondering who santiago is he's the host for the public and cheering the athletes maybe we can get a shot out of him and here we have both boulders pretty tricky start for the women what a cool split screen yes david chicken boyfriend was saying that we would have this so that would be able to give a little bit of a better view of all the athletes and that was a pretty perfect one to three coordination move beautifully executed such a slow time right it was a really slo-mo he slowed down so much har cream into a bad slope and flies out but that was a pretty good start he got awarded the zone and first on the first try and libya scarlett i think she's also going to be awarded the zone yes this time for sure she has to utilize it she cannot touch it um if somebody is wondering what all those tapes are and it's just coming new into bouldering we have four tapes in green at the beginning they represent the four limbs that we have two legs and two arms and you can choose how you start but you have to be able to control all those four pieces of tape at the beginning then higher up we get a pink tape this is a hold the water with a zone you get points for that and higher up the last hold is the top which has got a green marker you have to hold both hands and control it until the referee gives you the green light that you have topped it the rules are simple the more tops the better you're going to be on the score and if we have to split the climbers it goes down to the number of zones that you got them uh if we still have to play the climbers it would be to the number of attempts they got into the top and if this is not the case that there is a clear winner it would have to come to the number of attempts they took to get the zone and if this is still not a clear result then we would have to go back to countdown to the previous round but we always like when the first climber gets the more tops and consequently goes down to last stops i'm right here um yeah how many tops do you think the winner is going to have you asked me so hard questions i have to make it a bit harder for you [Music] let's say i think i think there's gonna be a girl and a boy who tops all problems cool and here olivia's khaled walking slowly to the left she really needs to keep to the wall in order to not be spit out of the wall on the slab starts very flat on his lobby on the right side moving to the very left gets really steep on a third degree where at the moment tabiasmat is making a good progress into the crimp with the right hand and tell us what he would be doing better in order to not uh fly out uh georg i mean in the end i guess it was also a physical game um so on a border like this of course we saw that the first movie got figured out quite quickly uh but then in the end the ending looks quite physically challenging and requires a lot of finger strength so i would say i'm i'm interested to see the difference in athletes concerning the top and i think we're gonna see people crushing the top um for sure i like your definition crushing the top whoa he's being maximilian wagner on the taller side managed to just spawn out and not have to do any coordination move that's actually something interesting in these categories the differences in in development and height in general it's especially challenging for for the route setters yes they don't know who is going to come out right i mean do they know some at least in the field but still it's really hard to to set a around that sphere uh and around that yeah fun for everyone to climb yeah we were even seeing yesterday some athletes like euler fisher struggling and boulder number three in the finals and people like francis sherida not having any problem with the beginning it's it's a heart of game but they have to set boulders which are city for everybody and i think they did a perfect job yesterday let's see how it goes the route setters for this youth category have been patrick sommer fabian lloyd anna savinik and beth hart wright leonard and let's see because we are getting closer to the top on both boulder number one and the women on the men's side that looks like a really hard small crib it does [Music] routers are so mean they just put us they covered the whole they cover it they're so mean and here we have a replay of flora gasping clear getting really close onto the zone past the zone and both athletes taking a little bit of a step back having a look at the boulder reading a little bit do you feel that if you're giving a lot of tries you're getting to more a lot more sweat in your fingertips and then therefore you're not being a lot of friction or involves like that where it's just a slob you can just keep going and giving many many tries um actually never worry too much about the the sweaty part um because you you jog so much that's that's not the issue of course skin is an issue but i'm not thinking about um the more tries i i i do the more i sweat on my fingers it's more like yeah to to make use of of the power you have um and not waste any tries but it's the tactics are [Music] really really important in bouldering um so when do you make a goal and make use of the go what is the the rest of the round gonna look like um what can i climb of course and i i was actually just gonna i was just wondering about the difference in tactics in in the age groups so i think we see a big difference now to to the younger younger athletes so yeah they know more about about competing and and making making use of every try when to rest you can see that they're thinking about it a lot more yes pretty interesting opinion that's really clear to see now that you mention it which is part of the development and now we're seeing maximilian wagner probably his last try he tried to jump to the top hold he's gonna do the same again and he didn't look so far away actually the question is if you hold it your whole body is swinging so hard you haven't hold it you're having to compensate and stabilize a lot yeah the whole swing looked really hard and joining onto the mat uh peter toefl and mara matutri we'll be going for the first boulders and olivia scarlett and toby's mother will be on the second boulders [Applause] okay [Music] and peter looking good here on his first attempt [Music] going for the [Music] [Applause] of the scoreboard by top and bottom number one i believe that was a flash so that would put him in a really strong position yes it was a flash uh actually when i saw patrick summer testing the boulder it was like that that you had both holes in there on the hat and it was a compass moth pretty much it was like almost to the edge and then you held it and yeah it looked exactly the same as it was planned pretty cool i mean he he skipped the crimp he didn't skip it but he he utilized it just for going to the next one yeah yeah and now we're seeing a clear harder start for the man on on board number two where they have to hold this cheat to sloppy hold and create a lot of tension with the toe hook on the left and it's pretty much a bicycle move where you're stepping with the ride and toe hooking with the left in order to create opposition to the hands and then you have kind of like a pretty hard sequence it looks really hard to be honest to hold the swing on on the second hole and that was the particle that we were just describing even hard to hold the starting position like you mentioned and i just saw in the corner of my eye seeing mana matitovic almost jumping to the top um it looks like levy uh scarlett didn't go for the tow hook and just got a really strong ponder move let's see if if she is gonna try to to use her toes on this one rolling around getting us more cream it looks like a really really small cream she has a lot of control on her feet on bubble yeah it doesn't look like she's getting a lot of swing olivia scarlett on boulder number two she's going with her with her hips really really uh far on the right and she wants to be a lot more to the left side if she wants to get a toe hook at least so you think she needs a lot more momentum i believe so yeah i might be now right got more momentum but it was already halfway facing to the right and that was a proper start by toby's mother from filler and i believe it's going to be timed out but he gets a big approach from the crowd i'm excited for from men's too i think this is going to be a pretty good boat for kristen liner he's has got a lot of power in his fingers i agree and coming down to the mats elise winkler uh on boulder number one from for albert and johannes vima the local hero on board number one let's see what jonas can do he also trains himself and in blockhouse and let's see what this young athlete has to say is he gonna go for a slow version uh we saw uh florida gangla getting really high up on border number two probably the highest we have seen in this hall at the previous round chooses to take a little step back like you say a bit more of the developed athlete choosing to take her rest very carefully and making every single try count it's interesting that she brought her water bottle out of the mets i've never done that before but maybe i'm gonna start doing it when it's really hot outside not a bad idea in summer right [Music] stay hydrated and florida has been clear choosing to brush a couple of holes and that foothold is pretty poor [Music] flora looking really really good this time manages to stabilize is it going to be the first stop and the first stop of the whole day for this boulder pretty strong position i'm sure she's going to be on top of the board she was really excited yes she looked pretty happy yes and florida being the only athlete with one top gets on the first position for now we me we've seen maximilian also streaming a little bit with the super star and boulder number two for the men not quite getting the attention that he requires [Music] and here elise winkler from bludence looking really good she will be awarded the zone for sure looking solid on a slab really trusting her feet there such a heartbreaking thing when people are getting really close to the top falling down you just want them to top it yes and slowly the people are coming more people who are walking by stopping and joining us and then we see patrick sermon doing some last adaptations into the last boulder of the women round and johanna's women making a really good solid attempt we go left oh he's gonna go yes he's gonna go oh probably a hill hook on the zone hold would help him to stay on the wall but 20 seconds to go not a lot of time it was a good try is he gonna go for another one yes and it's gonna be timed out for both athletes four minutes are just nothing for the four minutes everybody has four minutes it's true but but yes there's not a lot of time for very tough balls like those and now joining us felix chinook from salzburg and sophie quartzberger from but you really [Music] you really know the difference when you're on the mats and you have four minutes instead of five first you think it's just one minute but it's a minute and you feel it when you're on the mat and that's the third boulder we're going to see with the fizz first yes um i guess there's a lot of difference between the the minute that you have but you also had the previous observation do you prefer observation and five four minutes or no observation in five minutes i prefer observation but it's hard to to make or to be really quick in in starting trying the boulder because you still want to brush it you still want to look at it a little but oh yeah on top of balls number three he made it so much tension and there we think maybe another job on board number two for the woman wow she was really sagging on the shoulders that was pretty hard to see that was intense but she still has two minutes 20 there's plenty of time so yeah time management gets more important when you only have four minutes and you want to be really really quick with starting the boulder because actually you spent a whole observation um thinking about how to climb it so you just you just go out focus and start trying and maybe brush of course [Music] and now we are seeing a proper start but doesn't quite hold it peter toefl and madama tudinovic looking really a lot better now looks promising paul to the top with one hand she wants both hands and the referee gives her a green card we're starting to see more tops as the competition goes by on the score field of the men tobias mata running the first point and floored against winkler with the honesty one one top and two zones but now she will be for sure joined by mara to tonic that was the first stop on on the female slab yeah that was sophie current um even correct from corinthia pretty good start to how does it feel for you when you're coming out and um the first boulder goes perfect does it gives you the motivation to keep on going um i can't stress it enough um it's one of the most important parts of bouldering uh it gives you such a boost when you start with a flash or something uh instead of not not climbing the boulder so it's it's on the one hand it's really hard to get back into the round if you don't do it especially if you know that other athletes are doing it so you're already kind of behind on the other hand if you flash it and you get this kick of adrenaline it gives you a push for the whole round really interesting insights from kyopa joining me here on the box [Music] and goes out empty-handed [Applause] and next round we will see now ania vima the sister of johannesburg from baltimore number one and moritz janka [Music] do you think jania is one ani is one of the athletes which prefers more like a slow slap or more of a powerful uh i'm not too sure um we'll see how she does on a slab um i would say i'm gonna i'm gonna say she's gonna like slap and here we see a top i believe that was a flash pretty strong performance from the athlete they're just cruising m3 and the scores are maximum wagner followed by tobia's mother and peter toefl on the man and florida guys figure followed by mara matuto nevis and sophie kreuzberger on the women we've seen some tops not too many tops i think the root centers are doing a pretty good job and you wanna swim not having such a bad start on men's two i looking really really strong here libya scarlet and porter number three this is the highest we have seen any athlete i'm very interested to see how she's going to do that [Music] she needs to [Music] i believe there's a screw on the very last hole the cheetah hold um but i am not so sure it's a bit harder from here i think so we'll see if she crims something it's not gonna be air number one those pointy holes they're terrible and let's see both number two if she can get this tow hook and she just holds it so no touhou as we previously discussed a little bit round kick to the wall to stop the swing and florida going again into border number three let's see what she has left in the tank [Music] at top would put her in a really really good position six seconds to go and foot pops out and falls on it's crazy when did you just see how precise she was when throwing her kicking off uh put out to to that to the small foothold it's crazy when you're already that tired and you'll still be you're still able to come that precise yes speed and precision it's it's pretty important i guess when it comes to this level of climbing sometimes you you you climb more efficiently when you're tired actually i have the feeling just make quicker decisions and yeah how do you manage when it comes to boulders do you give everything you have in the tank for every single boulder do you say okay this is not going to be possible i'm going to leave some energy for the next um especially having so many rounds of boulders and so many runs in this competition in these four days yeah what is your intake into that yeah it's definitely it definitely has a tactical aspect and it gets more important the longer the competition lasts um and also depends on on the round a lot but yeah i i try to like when i'm in front of the boulder i just try to top it like i i was i think it's not like really part of the or you couldn't call it sportsmanship to just stop trying the boulder but of course i can decide on how many attempts i make and if i don't see any progress i might just rest a lot more and mana maternity looking really strong here in boulder number three getting really high up and slips out and here we have also the athlete from corinthia mother thomas we was just trying this roll over the left hand trying to catch the shoulder move with the right hand and we are seeing a judge having a little bit of reward i believe he maybe didn't do a proper start [Music] [Applause] actually on f2 it just saw the touhou catch for the first time [Music] [Applause] the people are getting so louder and they're getting quite a lot of emotions going through when their athletes are getting higher wow that was a pretty amazing performance on boarding number one he went for a completely different solution and that was the target that george was mentioning worked perfectly and that is the rollover seaman looking really strong here in boulder number one one minute to go and here we have also glance of border number four let's see the last rotation for livius khaled from up austria and the best of the men have one top same as the women so the number of jobs is going to be crucial to have a podium here 30 seconds left for siemen [Music] siemens almost sticking it but doesn't quite hold on to the wall [Music] it's interesting that peter if um correct was the only one topping number one i believe so and now he didn't top m3 so that's interesting because the other thread leads top to m3 so it's still still austria it's just jumped into the marks same as luka nindal and most of the athletes choosing to brush those holes i mean those boulders have already been climbed by the u12 and they're getting quite a lot of chalk it's probably a good idea to give it a couple of brushes to maximize friction you're right i haven't thought about that that the holes have been done or part of the horse [Music] and here we see on board number one the lambada that we were talking about and almost sticks the one two three luka nundell he being one of the shorter athletes cannot just step on the very low illusion hold he has to swing his whole body and anya just getting the toe catch on boulder number two for the female this looks really promising for her going for a completely different solution anya number two looks really promising and that's the thought for anya from graz the local hero from grass that looked that was a cheeky hill hook yeah that was cheeky you have to make use of of your height sometimes and she just did that perfectly yeah knowing you're voting you're knowing your possibilities and your reach is part of the game and you can see pretty much that these athletes just know themselves so much better than your youtube and here on board number two we're seeing a little bit more progress we have not seen so much progress before yes do you think it's a it's a cross to the song i believe it's across the sound yeah what else matching it he was trying to match it um but i think probably um you have to set the hill on the right and then cross to the to the zone hole with the left are you thinking there's a a little flat halt um and i think you're meant to heal hook it's kind of uh we're gonna see top of boulder number one yes anika dollar just manages to top perfect star for round it is and 30 seconds left to go let's see what moritz has to do there's where he goes with the right he has to set the hill on the right side but doesn't quite manage to pull up [Music] and for the number one is looking really good with luca topping on the last three seconds the boulder that was awesome what a hero what a hero actually it kind of reminds me of myself when i was that age because i also had long blonde hair and we're stopping also many boulders at that age i'm not sure so now the best from the women is flora against michigan with two tops in two tries and the best of the man is manu tobias with also two tops uh and three zones [Applause] and parijonas just came to the mat and looks pretty strong setting the heel hook perfectly as planned looking like he's going to go for a flash and flash is the first boulder that was interesting now we saw a diff a difference in physical strength abilities yeah ability and another top on both the number three maybe we can hold the replay and that's the tohu that we were saying and border number two for the women for madusa who gets a helicopter spin we also are able to see their first spanish martingale and the furthest we have seen from boulder number two from simon tower simon secures the zone that's the heel hook wow nice peter it still looks beautiful yeah and sophie crosby looking really really further up on the wall we have not seen the top of this boulder yet so a top would leave a really good position ah i just got it now that it's a clock i feel quite stupid on on men too you supposed he did a cross to the zone and he went down and he went back to the crim then did he or did he i'm not sure no he did that was right that was definitely a clock yeah oh no sorry he went with the right hand to the zone then went with the left yeah let's see i think he went with the right hand had the crimp in the left hand went down with the right hand and then went with the left hand to the pocket so he had to match the crimp i would say let's hope he shows us his beta again he still has 1 minute 13 so plenty of time not too many tops on the women's side and already [Music] maximilian wagner on second position with two tops and four zones so there we are we've seen body number two he just matched the small crimp maybe we should explain what a clock is yeah if you wish so for those of you if you're wondering uh it's when the sequence of the of the holes you take is kind of reminds you of a clock so you have first you have the whole for example with the right hand and after some movements you have it with the left uh in order to to move past this this crux yes and now we just saw a top from marusha on board the number two super strong performance and let's see if we can slip in more volume number four not many people have made it to this committing move yeah that was a perfect explanation of what a clock is i would say i'm not sure i tried my best told me to hurry up and hear the local hero christian lightner with a big smile i like it i like it too [Applause] and router jacoba from tyrol and christine is also on the shorter side when you compare all these athletes he's probably going to have to do a lambada have to swing his body and go for the one two three um but he's on the other side one of the um athletes with more finger strength so maybe the following boulders gonna be suiting him a little bit better i'm excited to see him now on the top section of number one and johannes vimer is important number four [Music] and a as fast stop on ball the number three from luca from moritz janka and there we have the local hero christian liner on his first attempt [Applause] not reaching enough height to hold it but getting close and ania looking really strong [Applause] now if there wasn't a screw on on that top i would be my mind would be blown away so now we know there's a screw on so i never even just got onto the first position with two tops and three zones on three tries i placed my bets right yes [Music] [Applause] an impressive performance from christian right now perfect start i guess a cheeky smile he has tattooed on his shoulders of a steel block house team block holes i'm actually now i now that i see him climb and i see what he's what his roots he's trying on rock i'm kind of i'm kind of scared when he he grows up and we're gonna train in blockhouse together and he's just gonna crush me someday but yeah it's gonna be happily climbing is a technic sport and it's not all about power so that's true yeah we're wishing the best and we're seeing now uh jonas making also progress as his sister on board number four that was also quite a committing move you have to hold the tension between two and looked really comfortable and it's a tougher bjorn as we met perfect ending of the round let's see where he comes into the position [Music] he didn't do it not actualized yet so we still need to be actualized the scores he was sitting on fifth he didn't get awarded yet at the top and now has been awarded top [Music] and the last position it's already tules jonas winner will remain in fifth position that's the best score she he can already do it's not gonna be enough unfortunate but his sister is looking on top of the leaderboard with three uh two tops and three zones [Music] and last athletes of today's final alexander and nina henschel is [Music] [Music] and doesn't quite stick the coordination with the first go and atop a really really fast stop from siemens tower seems like either you top number three really quickly or you don't do it at all another talk from the spanish athlete martin gayla might see simon just got into the second position with two one top and two zones i believe sorry one top and three zones for simon tarber and alexander looking really strong making progress in bolton number one holding into the crimp and now holding the tension yeah doing the intended beta i would say i'm gonna see another top on the women's number three oh that's the that was the intended solution for the roots at this plant from arusha between this heap what do you call it now is it the hip stall i don't know is it a hip bar a bar yeah maybe a hip bar a hip jump hip bar jam yes we also saw alexander topping ball number one so this is going to be pretty interesting to see christian liner and alexander now fighting for the first position as both of them top ball number one and jonas bada consolidating a good start of boiler number two looking really strong the tyronian athlete it almost looks like border number four is a little bit i know he can reach it purple actually up until now the height wasn't that much of a limiting factor of course um some of the tall athletes could could break the beta on some especially on men's one but apart from that i would say the route settlers have done a quite good job yes wow that's holding onto the wall and we're gonna see [Music] looking really good or is he gonna match it he's gonna do a hand swap it looked a little bit too far away to be honest i believe this is meant to be a shoulder move to the crimp that is blocked with a screw and hold but he's also not the tallest of the athletes so let's see what the other ones can do and are you planning to qualify for paris 2024 that's a dream but uh dream big i would say but yeah i hope that the combination of bouldering and lead will suit me quite well since i've always tried to be strong in both disciplines and yeah let's hope my body doesn't get in the way and i can i can train as hard as i want to yeah pretty inspiring to see another you who in the last two years suffered some of injuries that would hold them back and still comes back really strong and really with a lot of motivation that's really inspiring i guess for all these young athletes who are coming to the math and who are climbing next to you in blockhouse yeah pretty impressive props to you thanks unless you stay motivated let's see what um here the local christian liner has to do on border number two i think this is gonna suit him pretty well he's really strong yeah i agree i hope he does the clock i'm a big fan of the clock oh [Applause] [Music] this is the highest we have seen anybody in boulder number two if he tops it he is going to be the first on the scoreboard it's a flash for christian lightner and the people go crazy big smile that was kind of a of a key moment i would say in the comp for him and i believe any also topped she's going away and another top standing train on the mat standing trend is back in the station that was here coming right there topping and again here goes moritzyanka [Music] that was the intended idea and i guess your whole body has to swap to the left there's a roll to the left and you stop the swing using left foot against the lower peak 360 sphere at the bottom no topsail farm for the number four no sorry we have a local top yes oh you wanna swim up hey you wanna swim but we didn't get to see the the beta on the bottom did we no we didn't get to see if somebody's wondering what this beat i think that just um georg mentioned beta is just another fancy word for a solution that climb is used to discuss methods and we have not seen yet a solution of this move being achieved and being done so hopefully in the next three 40 seconds we're going to be able to see this young athlete um maurizianka from lower austria getting a bit further up and christian line is sitting currently in first position with two tops in three tries followed by luca ninja with two tops in nine tries [Music] and then the women the local anavema with two tubs and three zones sorry three tops and four zones in four tries yeah she's doing a really good really good position and every single athlete choosing to brush all the holes they're getting quite wide quite chosey remember you don't only want to choose the holes for your hands to be clean but also the ones that you're going to place your feet especially in this lab and you want to keep your boots clean and he was seeing the spanish athlete on board number three [Music] and that was the clock that number three and looking pretty strong here she needs to get herself up for the cream and at the top for martin gala matia [Music] sorry i was quiet for a while but i was just paying attention to when the athletes are starting their boulders and how much time they take to to brush the the holes and i think it was the first athlete was on the bouldering uh 335 and the last maybe in 315 or something yes so yeah if you start at 3 15 you have to imagine you only have kind of three minutes left so it makes a difference yes i believe so another talk from nina henshaw and we just saw the scores and i might be winning the ice cream to you i hope not but on the women's side we saw the spanish athlete with three tops and she still has not finished her rotation so if she tops the next one um you might be holding me at ice cream wait do we have that on tape you didn't agree but it's all said and fourth boulder we're seeing also a lot of progression from the young athlete uh marusha porovich i think i'm gonna grant you the healthy amount of nationalism you you have right now so dave do you feel more of an austrian now or i mean i'm adopted here i should say yes if i want to keep my job yeah nah gratitude's a very beautiful city and and you guys make the whole atmosphere such such nice people in graz uh thanks thanks a lot georg for making this here yeah definitely i feel really welcomed by you guys and it's really nice to be here um sharing this climbing world and lots of fun here in graz definitely recommend it to anybody who wants to come here nice people uh a mediterranean flair there's a lot of sun more sudden than i was expecting yeah we just saw a top of [Applause] alexander now walking away the months so bada jonas just took the first position with two tops and three zones but christian has not yet done his third boulder so he has a lot to say yet still in the game and since m3 is a physical one and has got is it probably on the softer side in comparison to the second one but also being a quite of a burly compression move he's also a little bit smaller not gonna be maybe so easy to compress um but yeah being on the easier side hopefully we're gonna see a top from human being from christian right now sorry i'm going to go for a flash here but we'll see one for flash yeah i'm going to go for two and here he goes christian lightner on his first try we're kind of hesitating with the beta a little there we're going to see a whole angle step in precise [Music] with scarpa being one of the main sponsors [Music] yeah i think now we're gonna see i think he's in the game no problem for christian liner with three tops in four tries two flashes and the first boulder he did it on the second go but he was struggling a little in the beginning and yeah really trusting his left foot on that small screw on and almost uh falling out on the beginning but then he kept it together and crushed it and now we saw the intended better ball than number four for the man [Music] and luka nindal choosing to brush the holes again let's see if we can see another repetition of his move and he can stick the move that would be nice going for another go onto this run start really nice running controls the zone no problem controls the start sorry we get a pretty good overview still has two minutes on the clock [Music] [Music] let's see luka if he can get this move [Music] looking really good here making progression same as [Music] looking really really strong anika both athletes really high into the wall now we're going to steal proper seam off the top on board number four and she secures the top that was a sneaky thumb did you see that yes he she put her thumb in the how do you call that into the t-nut it's a t-nut yeah into the tin of the hold yeah why here where you put the big screw in sneaky sneaky and this is a replay of the athlete jacob who's going to give another try in the last 30 seconds and luka nindel on board the number four going for a different [Music] solution and that was the last 10 seconds of their rotation and so far on the men's leading christian liner followed by jonas and luca nundell and on the women's side starting anya followed by kaila martin mastia and anika debla all of them have three tops didn't finish her rotation so it's not over and now she's going for her last boulder she tops she's going to be first this is an interesting moment now let this look very promising for the spanish athlete i think we're gonna see a flash and i'm gonna have an answer [Music] standing on first position [Music] also nina henshaw looking really strong making big progress of bolton number four and pretty a lot of athletes finishing the boulders with a lot of time remaining that was a little bit sold too fast it's not over until it's over she needs to control it from switzerland nikola henshal nina henshaw really close and jonas almost taking the quarter move so close what a cool move it has to be a dream for any route setter to be here in the biggest event that grass has ever seen with all new halls in such an international competition [Music] and people are getting more and more loud as all these climbers are topping more and more boulders wow that is facing the public nice we've seen already seen three different methods for the top on this one [Applause] pretty good effort from nina henshaw from switzerland that was my favorite i have to say yes that was a single crowd my favorite i'm interested on um how christine is gonna be on the fourth boulder i wouldn't say he's bad on the coordination but i don't think his strength um and yes he been one of the yes that's what we're talking about that was the move [Music] being on the shorter side it's not going to happen so easier to roll over going for the static method or jumping no no maybe you could do a chicken wing if you were really going for it but yeah i think it's a lot easier to just hold both hands nice stay done and slapping it that was a very proud effort from the athlete of tyrol jonas pada and if somebody was wondering where the chicken wing is basically when you're jamming your elbow with your so they're both uh opposite number four there's two big massive spheres and if you were jamming the elbow to the hand into the hunt into the both into the crack that is then you get a chicken wing but i don't think that is going to be really easy in the crank it's like an off with this really bad pretty wide yeah but yeah that was well done for the australian yeah well done i'm not too much of an expert on on crack climbing well it was really funny because the first time that i commented in bolderrama uh the white boys heard the flipper thing and then they just sent me a video where they're explaining a lot of things and there were crazy things like there's a technique where you're jamming really inside and they were calling it fisting a cow and that was like searching for dungeons so pretty pretty crazy names into the crack jamming world but let's see what crazy let's see what christian liner has to say of his last boulder and he's having a pretty perfect round assures the start i'm excited what christian is doing on m4 let's see about his lab skills so going for a static method here now it's a niner who needs top if he wants to be first he's sitting second behind jonas bada who managed to complete his rotation with three tops and four zones but now he secured the zone where does that put him i'm not sure that's gonna be quite interesting yes yeah he's sitting in first position if he tops it he's going to be the winner because now alexander didn't top boulder number two i believe and if he doesn't and alexander tops the ball the number four unless he has to flush it then [Music] but hopefully we're not gonna need to see that and we're gonna see kristen liner managing four tops the only climber with four tops there's such a perfect score that we want to see oh my god oh no creating more attention i mean he's already been there he still has two minutes it's plenty of time he just needs to get a bit higher with his whole body just have to keep it together now but that's but he's sitting in the first position so i mean narayana would have to top it on the go he would have to flush the boulder and it's a pretty low percentage boulder yeah but then it would go back to contact am i right there then we would go back to combat and alexander is sitting in a better position than christian so but what about bonus tries they're the same right they're the same yes [Music] so still quite exciting not making a lot of progress on boulder number four she being one of the shorter athletes not being able to come very far away let's see if christine can do again the boulder not quite swinging enough with the left foot yes no problem the running start come on julian christian [Music] i think he's getting a little bit stressed about the clock and rushing a little bit and this is kind of a border where you cannot rush it but he now got the time that he wanted he just have to commit really really going for the oh my god that's heartbreaking that's very heartbreaking he really didn't want to commit and it's a little distressed that he didn't manage to do it i think we saw libya frustration a pretty expressive time but but still alexander has to flash it has to flash it and he will win because of count back so let's see what alexander has to say it's now or never he knew that he could top it or it would be important to top it and you have this movement where you know okay it's kind of dynamic movement but maybe i can do it statically and do it more securely but then maybe it might be the wrong decision you know sometimes the static version might be more safe but a lot harder yes true so i said i just burned two goals so i don't believe he can be first position if he makes another two goes he would be on second position and if he doesn't top it he would remain on third position so i think that was the win for um christine lightner the local hero oh yeah i missed it nina henshaw from switzerland no problem with the shoulder move nina has also three tops and he only needs one more top if he but she could be maximum second because the spanish athlete and she just stopped it both athletes matthias and nina henschel got to the tops but nina got in 13 tries therefore martin guy sitting on first position second position nina henshall and third but not least anya vima the local hero and now we're seeing alexander now really close we have seen stories [Music] not owens is over and now he gets awarded from the top that's it was quite a close battle between those that was a very close one and there we see close shot from the tube and he's going to be sitting on second position just three tries behind christian liner what a interesting and exciting yeah final that was a very very well placed final from the root centers and we're going to wait i was again wrong actually i said in both categories we're going to have four tops yes but we didn't i was good with the guessing but it was pretty pretty close and uh the women got the full top so you were really close there pretty good right judgement we're going to be followed by the flower ceremony so i'm going to let you you can free be free and enjoy your night thanks a lot yeah enjoy your night enjoy the food recover because tomorrow you have a long day and i hope the best for you tomorrow semi-final we hope we see the whole day more of your palma let's hope i really i'm really excited to to climb uh tomorrow night that would be it'll be a dream yes yes from the home home cloud yeah exactly i mean you could consider yourself also a grazing now a little bit yeah i mean my heart is still beating for austria i have to say but uh no yeah of course a little bit i hope we don't hear this so much in blockers now thanks a lot again and all the best tomorrow thanks for having me and until next time and those were the words from girl palmer who was helping me on the commentating hosting and guiding you guys in this very interesting and roller coaster evening of the youth 12 youth 14. tomorrow we're going to have more with the semi-final round of the masters in the morning followed by the final of the youth 16 in the evening followed by the finals of the masters at night my name is david patterson and we're going to be surely having a little bit of a replay of the last moments of today on the finals the scores as we have been followed and gail mattia with the best four tops in six right followed by nina and by anya and on the main side the local hero christian liner followed by alexander now and last but not least on third position um the tyrolean let's barely hones got a different between tries alexander got it in uh seven tries christian and four and jonas on eight tries and those are the root setters bringing another holds because they have to be setting for tomorrow the other team of route setters for the qualifier for the semifinal round of the block masters and surely we will be having a flower ceremony so um so so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay [Music] foreign foreign [Music] and then we have the u12 third place and [Applause] golden medal [Applause] and that is stockholder china the ceo of blockhouse and men from backwoods so third position for the man's u12 this young athlete very strong position nicolas okay um friendly competition and those were the three places from the male youth 12. and a big smile from julian leitner who just made his dream come true being the first on his front on his home country her hometown here in graz [Music] she did really well and therefore she deserved a bronze medal switzerland on second silver medal on damn aston platz on the first place marcia martin foreign bye [Applause] [Music] alex air surprise [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] and that was the finals of the youth 14 and 12 the flower ceremony and tomorrow we're going to be followed by the semi-final round of the blocks masters starting at 10 a.m then in the evening we will be having the final of the youth 16 followed by the grand the great final of the youth uh the block masters story uh the final taking in the evening plays tomorrow thanks a lot and that was everything from me that was uh an awesome evening and we see more of each other tomorrow thanks a lot um [Music] [Music] so [Music] so [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: EpicTV

Views: 5,507

Rating: 4.8596492 out of 5

Keywords: Austrian Climbing Summer Series - Women's Final, Innsbruck, climbing, bouldering, jessica pilz, jakobschubert, climbing competition, ifsc, austrian climbing, live climbing action, live climbing comp, indoor bouldering

Id: rsS5-f_uuIs

Length: 219min 15sec (13155 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 13 2021