How to Balayage Dark, Long, and Thick Hair - Foilayage Hair Technique (NEW Method!)

what's up welcome to my youtube channel in today's video we're going to be doing my signature wash technique with a twist so stay tuned alright guys welcome to this video I am so excited to be sharing with you guys this new twist to my signature foliage technique so my model today has about a level 5 hair and she's got some brightness already on her end so we're gonna be refreshing her hair brightening her up adding a stronger muddy piece in the front and I'm going to be sharing with you guys a new secret sauce that I found for my blending agent and it's not lightweight conditioner so stay tuned to find out exactly what it is alright so this is our starting canvas you guys can see she's got definitely some whiteness and there's some good dimension already but she definitely still has a lot of depth especially through this back section here so we're gonna be brightening her up bringing all of this up it's been six months since she's gotten her hair color done so we're gonna be brightener up giving her a lot more brightness breaking through kind of this dark whole area and just really getting there some really fun beautiful color for summer and one last thing that I want to make mention is she definitely has a lot of depth underneath her hair like I showed you so you guys can see author here that sometimes a client might not feel super blond because they're kind of dark through here so we're gonna show you guys how to brighten up this area give it lots of lots of depth and make sure that this area doesn't feel too dark to your clients alright so I am going to be mixing up her Lightner and I actually love using this double-sided Bowl because it allows me to do two formulas so I'm actually going to be doing just a 10 volume with olaplex just for those the lighter ends I just want to brighten them up a little bit but not too much and then I'm also going to be doing a 30 volume to start with we'll probably bump it up to 35 for some of those darker pieces but that will start with 30 so I'm just gonna mix that up here and of course I'm always gonna put in some olaplex and then I'm going to show you guys something fun and new that I'm gonna try [Music] all right so previously in the past I have used a lightweight conditioner for my blending agent but we're actually going to be using the biology color Kerr aesthetic milk rinse and so I'm going to put this into a bowl here just kind of squirt a decent amount in there and this is going to be used as my blending agent for our coils I'm going to show you guys a really fun technique with using this but I am really excited to show it to you all right so I'm gonna section your hair to start just the front from the back so I'm just literally going to take a section just right behind your ear here and I don't do super crazy sectioning and I just barely kind of clip it out of the way so we're just going to clip that away and we're gonna start here in the back section and what I showed you guys she's got a lot of depth underneath here so when she wears her hair up there's so much darkness and a lot of times clients when they pull their hair forward they want to see this brightness in here so we definitely are gonna want to brighten this up so when she wears her hair back she gets that nice beautiful balayage look so we're gonna start here she's got a really nice square of hair light so I'm not gonna do a diagonal back section just like this and we're gonna start right there so let me just clip this away all right we're gonna take our section right here and I'm going to weave it out and all I'm gonna do is I'm going to end up believing this piece out because I want this to be our natural low light if I took the entire section and did it what would happen is you'd have a really blonde chunk right there so we don't want that so I'm going to tease this section right here just ever so slightly and I like to start my teasing kind of just mid-shaft up and we're going to do that right there and then I'm going to take my foil right here and this is where it that blending agent comes in so I'm taking my blending agent just right here and applying it right below where I did my teasing so you guys can see the teasing's there we got the blending agent and then I'm gonna go in with my 30 volume because this is the much darker section here and start just applying it through the length of her hair now you wanna make sure that you're really saturating this hair getting it fully fully in there and then I'm just going to go through and just kind of blend this up into that blending agent that we did so just kind of slightly feather up in there one thing you do want to make sure that you're not going all the way up into the teasing area because then that could cause bleed much so I'm just kind of going right where that blending agent is and then all I'm going to do is I'm going to take another coil place it right on top and then that is going to incubate this entire section fold this up and then walk it down into place now I'm going to go to my next section so you guys can see this was the piece right around her hairline now I'm going to just kind of slightly vary my angle and go a little bit closer towards that bottom corner of the nape of her neck so we're just going to take this and I want to make sure that I'm doing this to get all of that brightness and then you guys can see how much darkness she has through here a lot of her lightness was through the top layer over here so we want to make sure that we're grabbing all of this and definitely getting some brightness in here alright so I'm going to again do this and this is a little bit wider of a section so we will need just a little bit more out we don't want to again have her be an ombre take a look she does have a lot of brightness already so we're just kind of enhancing that and bringing it in so again we're gonna tease this up and grab our longer foil now I love these foils if you guys have not used these foils yet they are amazing they're from frame R and of course they're my favorite color the rose gold color and I absolutely love them because you can tear them to the links that you want them to be so this is great especially for clients like her who have this insanely long thick hair it's really hard to bunch that up into short foils so Freight more makes them in this nice beautiful long roll and then I can just paint however I need to now she has a little bit of lightness down here at the end so what I'm gonna do is I have saturated it with 30 volume but I'm gonna go through back with our 10 volume and just kind of rely ton of those ends down here so it almost created like a 20 volume down here at these a little bit lighter ends because she definitely has some depth in there but I don't want it to be full 30 volume for the whole time so just to ensure that her ends stay healthy of course we did use olaplex but make sure that we put a little bit of lightness in there too so now I'm just going back through it again just kind of blending this back up into our blending agent that meant that acidic milk rinse is gonna be so so amazing and all I'll kind of explain a little bit more as to why I use it as you go through this process but for now you guys can see I'm just feathering it up in there and one other thing that I do like to do sometimes is you can see how maybe this might be a little bit solid so I'll take a clean dry brush and I'm just gonna drive this down right here and just kind of smooth it out a little bit kind of blending anything else that could be there now she obviously has dark dark hair so we want to make sure that there's a really gradual lightness and a really nice variance all the way down so we'll take this foil place it right on top and again this is also a foil from frame are these are their pop-up foils but I love it because it just makes a beautiful rose gold color and of course your clients are gonna love this first it's just silver foils I just think it's kind of fun so just gonna lock that into place and we're gonna do the exact same thing on the other side of the head all right so what I did from where we left off was I did two diagonal backs to one straight across so I did kind of that halo section just around the hairline and then they just continued up the head so doing two diagonal back B sections two one straight across you guys can see this is my straight across section here's my diagonal backs and doing the exact same thing so now that I've done a straight across one I'm going to do another diagonal back and you guys can see we're kind of getting to the top crown section of her head so I'm going to kind of connect my front section to the back right here and we're gonna do just about the Reed quarter of an inch thick about half an inch to 3/4 of an inch thick section she does have a lot of hair and she has enough lightness so I'm not really too worried about putting in so much blonde but you guys can see so I'm gonna do my two just right there my two V sections right here and we're going to do two of these guys and then one straight across and then I'll show you guys when we get to there but let's let's actually go through this section right here just as I'm catching you up so you guys can see she still has so much depth through here there's not a lot of brightness so this is gonna be really fun to bring in a lot of this step because like I said a lot of the depth or a lot of the brightness was just on this top layer so we still had a lot of brightness to bring back in so I'm gonna weave this one just like I did with the first section that I showed you guys that's gonna end up being our low light piece so we're gonna leave that out and then we're gonna tease it and I do like to kind of start some Midway down and kind of tease up here now sometimes what'll happen with some clients hair they're teasing doesn't want to stay so it'll start to creep down so what you can do is you can put a clip in the hair just to kind of keep the section nice and clean and then apply your Lightner from here so grab a piece grab our blending agent and a one thing I do love about the blending agent is I can take my hands away from this foil it's not gonna slip so it helps kind of hold lock that foil into place and so keeps it a lot easier for me he said just so much easier as I kind of move it around grabbing my whitener all of that stuff so you guys can see she does have a lot of big thick hair so what we want to make sure that we're doing is really making sure to get that product in there so there's not any hollow spots on the inside because sometimes what can happen is there will be hollow spots internally so we want to make sure that this piece is really fully fully saturated and I'm using my hand as kind of my backboard and then pushing up against that product into my hand another thing that you guys will notice as we kind of go up her hair she has kind of this hair down here where she has some lightness but then a lot of it is dark so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna weave some of this out or darker pieces so now we've got these light pieces down here we're gonna let those hang out and I'm actually gonna pull this guy up and combine it with our 30 volume up in here so that this piece is getting fully light and all the way through and then we'll go through and tackle the end separately with our 10 volumes this is like weeding out for low lights you guys can see getting it really really in there making sure to fully fully saturate it we'll take our 10 volume just kind of touch these little ends down here nothing crazy back here is our 30 volume and now that I fully saturated the rest of the piece I'm gonna go up and do my feathering technique up into it so I only want to do this blast because I feel like this is the part that takes like the most tennis and so I wouldn't want to go through do it first and then have it move or something while I'm doing the rest of the hair so I would like to do this a little part blast so one thing that you want to make note of is during this part down here in the mid lengths and to the ends I am pushing the product and I'm definitely adding more force but then when we get up to this piece up here I'm doing a much softer lighter touch when it comes to the feathering I'm not pushing the product and it's definitely more of a feathering kind of technique so I'm making sure to get it saturated but I am doing more like surface painting through there so just something I wanted to make note of and then I will take my clean brush and just kind of smooth this out here you guys can see having this clip up here really keeps it so that that teasing area is it you know creeping down in there we're just going to place a foil right on top and incubate it I'm gonna do that on the other side over here and then I'll show you guys when we get up to this section all right so we did my two of diagonal backs and now I'm just gonna do straight across all the way up her head because we're left with kind of this smaller section and I don't really necessarily need to do tooth diagonal back so we end up with this tiny triangle so I'm just gonna do straight across so I'm gonna do our first one kind of a triangle and you guys might see that this is a thicker section but I still want to leave some depth in her hair she doesn't want to be platinum blonde or super crazy blonde obviously if she did we would be taking a lot less sections and I would be charging a lot of money for this because it would take me a while but I'm going to do a deep weave on this one so I am capturing hair from down here so we're gonna do kind of a deeper weave just like that but we still are leaving some depth in there also when I tease the hair you guys can see I'm going to tease it this will also help us keep some depth in there because we're not going super crazy you know we are gonna eliminate some of that hair so it does help a lot and it definitely helps diffuse the light hair as well so now we're just gonna place our oil after blending agent and I still am on 30 volume once we get around to the front of the hair I will switch to probably 35 but the fun thing is I always like to check the hair in some of these lower foils just to see how it's processing sometimes it doesn't need to be bumped up but because it's been sitting on for a while we are gonna bump it up just to kind of catch it up to speed so you guys can see I'm adding more product in this mid length area because she does have thick thick hair right there it is dark I want to make sure that it is really saturated and then I'm gonna go through and kind of pull out some of these low lights now these pieces are definitely on the lighter side down here but we just have some darker little lights let's kind of touch those up right in here kind of feathering this through and then I will take my ten volumes still and just kind of touch it down here the fun thing about this technique is you can really customize what kind of developers you're putting in there if you wanted to do a low light instead you could do something like that so it allows you to really customize what you're doing because I have this whole surface toupee and really get custom to what I'm doing with her hair this is also gonna really ensure the health of her hair and integrity while we're working okay so now last but not least I'm going to go back up and just kind of diffuse this line blend it up in there and this takes a feeling for sure like it definitely takes some time getting used to the pressure you put in how you're doing your brush so I would just recommend just keep playing around and figuring out what works for you so now you guys can see that's pretty solid right there so I'm just gonna take my little brush and just kind of blend this down through making sure to wipe it off real good in between and then place my foil on top let it incubate so we're gonna continue up on this little section right here and I'll show you guys the very long foil we do right here on the top of that alright so we are gonna do this last section here on the top she does I think has a lot of lightness in here already so I'm not too concerned about this one I am just gonna bring it up a little bit so I'm really just gonna kind of do kind of the top layer here I'm not really too worried about it cuz I don't want to make her super super blond I'm just gonna pull even a little bit more of this out so all I'm gonna do is I'm going to do the same thing like I did before but I'm gonna make sure to really diffuse that teasing right there so we did a lot of teasing and again I'm gonna clip that out of the way it definitely helps especially on sections where it can kind of bunch up really bad so grab the foil and this is the section that you really want to pay attention to because here's the thing this is gonna be the piece that will lays over and so if it's all chunky or there's lines in the hair your client is going to notice that it's gonna show up in your Instagram photo you definitely don't want this so this is a really really important piece you want to make sure that it's super super blended and really diffuse nicely [Music] all right so as I'm going through and kind of blending this up in there and be really really careful to make sure that it's blending while I'm placing the lightener on I think sometimes when we have clients on a really thick hair we just slap the lightener on there hoping that it blends out and we get lazy and so you definitely don't want to do this especially with somebody with thicker hair because it is going to show up and you will have problems so even though you're teasing the hair and it's gonna help diffuse it even though you're using the blending agent you still want to make sure that it's just blended as possible I'm gonna go through saturate our ends a little bit down here [Music] everything is really saturated in there I'm actually not gonna lock the corners on this one because I don't want it to squish in there so alright so now we finished our final that section I'm gonna check some of these just to see how we're lightening I'm gonna go remix some Lightner and then we're gonna get to the front alright so I'm gonna go in and add for a money piece now one thing that I did notice was she parts her hair kind of off to the side and her money piece on this side is a little bit higher than it is on this side and this is actually really common when people divide the balayage or foil iaj doing side by side but there's the reason why I like to do these pieces combined so that we don't have that issue so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to just kind of figure out asked her where she parts her hair so that you're gonna press it right there and I'm just gonna kind of take my section just about 3/4 of an inch wide and the cool thing is with this technique is you're customizing it to your client and what their hair line looks like because every client's got a little bit different of a hair line you guys can see she's actually a little bit thinner on this side which is no problem but this allows me to customize it so I actually want the speed just a little bit thinner on this side so I'm just gonna take this let's just back away and what I'm gonna do is I'm going to take my section almost like I would a highlight I'm gonna take this guy and you guys can see there's lots of depth in here and so I'm just gonna kind of weave it I'm gonna leave out some of those lighter pieces she does have and we're not gonna actually choose this section because it's such a fine piece you don't really need to tease it and especially because we use our lightening agent or blending agent so I'm just going to use my blending agent right here and again I can take my hands away from this foil it's not going to slip our NJ so another great reason of why it's use that blending agent then I'm just gonna paint my Lightner in right here trying to avoid pieces that are already light so actually just pull this guy out and this is actually a frame our brush - I love this brush because it has that tail comb so I can kind of be really precision with it or really precise with it I'm just gonna get up in here and then I'm gonna go back in and I barely have any Lightner on this brush at all and just kind of feather this up into this section into our blending agent and then I'm just gonna literally fold this into thirds and lock it into place I'm gonna do two more of these pieces and I'm going to show you guys the front [Music] all right so I did three of those baby like tight coils and now I'm just literally gonna take this teeny-tiny foil this is actually getting in some of her baby hairs that she has up here not the really really short ones but just a couple of these little guys up here I do want this to be a little bit stronger around her face so I am just grabbing this little tiny loss coil and doing these types of details on your clients is really gonna make a difference they will notice the difference between you doing this one last oil and you not and this is what's gonna set you apart from other stylist so this is just a kind of great little tip anytime you can add in a little detail like this for your client it's gonna make a huge difference they'll notice and I just promise you it will set you apart okay and then one last thing I like to do because these little baby hairs are so annoying while the client is processing so I always just like to get them away from the clients face and then we're gonna place these foils back down but by getting them out of the clients face that really helps them feel more comfortable while they're processing so now we finished her little money piece section right here in the front and I'm gonna go through and do the sides and I'll show you guys what I'm doing alright so now we're gonna do the pieces on this side and you guys can see she's actually got quite a bit of baby hairs in here but we pulled these baby hairs kind of we incorporated them into our money piece so I'm not too worried about this little section but we aren't going to want to tackle this section right here around the hairline so I'm going to just pull this piece down and this is going to be our first almost baby light highlight piece it's gonna mimic what we did in these foils we're probably going to do two of these ones just to make sure that it is really good and you guys can see it then right here but that she's also about this thickness here so we do want to make sure that we're blending it in so that she doesn't have this like blonde chunk running back behind her hair but also still having enough lightness around her face so this is a guy that's going in and customizing it for your client and here hair line so we'll do a little bit of blood beat a JIT you guys can see I'm just kind of blending it up into our blending agent saying that we're a in this video I apologize and then I'm just gonna fold this foil into thirds like I would just a regular I like and with this next piece I'm going to capture a little bit more kind of up in here now the key with these pieces is you do want to keep them closer to baby lights versus thicker highlights because the thinner it is the better it's gonna blend so you guys can seem actually grabbing some of those baby hairs in here now for meteors were a little bit shorter I wouldn't even bother them because we wouldn't want to have like her fluffy baby hairs being lightened but these ones are a little bit longer so we are gonna lighten them now I know sometimes this section can be a little bit tricky or sometimes feel awkward so even if it feels a little awkward just know that it feels awkward to me - it does take a little bit of getting used to getting your hand placement down how to hold the foil and stuff so just keep practicing it will get better but it sometimes does just go offer it in these positions that's totally normal and walk it into place and now for the rest of her hair I'm actually going to do diagonal back sections till we reach this top corner here and we're going to do them just the same way now this piece was a piece that we pulled up in our hairline so we're gonna let that hang out down here these are gonna be our foliage pieces so these pieces because they are a little bit thicker we are gonna make sure to tease them and sometimes hair can clump up like that so we do want to make sure that it is gonna be a nice surface for me to paint on so if it is all clumped up go ahead and just rearrange it before you grab your Lightner and try to move it around with your Lightner in there it'll be a lot easier on you [Music] so I'm going to continue up the head just doing the angle back so we reach that top little corner piece and finish up this session [Music] [Music] all right so we finished her entire head just as a recap we did two diagonal back sections - one straight across and we did that all the way up her entire back section until we got to this crown area where we did three straight across of course every piece we weaved teased it and then added our blending agent before we did the lightener then on the sides we did our money piece in the front and then two diagonal backs and then all the way up into this final last corner these pieces sometimes we'll do a foil in here but with her I want to leave a little bit of depth so what I'm going to do is right before we let the client walk off in process I always like to check the last foil of the last section that we did just to make sure that there's plenty of blend happening in there so sometimes well even just take my brush kind of move it around make sure there's no pollow spots and you guys can see it's already lifting beautifully she has some beautiful virgin hair with some lightness already in there so I'm not too worried about it but if you ever see any kind of spa ninis or something already happening here you're gonna want to go back and check your foils because if this foil is spotty and has issues chances are you might have other foils that are spotty as well so you shouldn't if you do the technique correctly but you just want to go back and check so this is looking really beautifully we're gonna go let her process for a little bit I'm not gonna put her under heat because it's already looking good unless we need to just kind of warm it up for a little bit but know a little process [Music] all right so I just finished rinsing her hair I did do a little promotion poo to kind of pre tone but what I did was I mixed up some shades eq and this is gonna be our main toner sometimes if I do use purple shampoo it's just a pretty tone a little bit but I know that we're always gonna do a toner after that so this I mixed up 9gi 9 + + 9 P equal parts and so I'm going to apply it starting at the bottom of her head so they lift up [Music] okay so I'm gonna start applying it kind of at the area where it is the most warm you guys can see that she's definitely got some warmth in here and she was pretty dark to begin with so I'm happy with how she lightened we're gonna start kind of in there and then I'm just gonna keep kind of working on my way down I am gonna leave her ends out just a little bit till I get towards the end of her processing because I don't want them to get too muddy so I'm just gonna start applying kind of down here and then we will work our way all the way up through the entire head and probably live this process from anywhere from about five to ten minutes [Music] alright so we just finished blow-drying her and have you ever have a moment when you're blow-drying your client and maybe there's an area that's not totally blended but you're a freed entire client because you don't know how to fix it or you don't have time to take them back to the shampoo detail and do all that and so you just let them go home crossing your fingers hoping that they don't notice this little spot that maybe wasn't totally blended it happens to all of us especially on clients that have darker hair there's a spotter hair that I noticed when I was blow-drying that wasn't quite the way that I wanted it to be so I'm gonna share with you guys a quick little trick that you can do that takes maybe 5 to 10 minutes and if you address it with your clients you are still in control the second that they say hey there's like something funky right here or they have to come back that takes you out of the driver's seat and so it's actually really important to make sure that you're addressing things like this while they're in the chair fixing it right then in there and keeping it really simple so all I'm gonna do is there's a little spot kind of right here to me this is kind of me being OCD it's sometimes hard to see in the light it's a little bit spotty so I'm just literally going to pick up kind of the area where I see it a little tiny bit spotty honestly not even that bad but I'm going to take a foil and I mixed up jay-z q 5n in my little mixing bowl and so I'm just literally gonna blur it just write down like that just bear me over that little spot that I feel like it's a little spotty and fold it up and then there was one other spot in this section as we parted her hair kind of more towards the middle that bothered me so I'm just gonna do the exact same thing put it in these two little foils rinse it out in a towel and then we should be good to go [Music] alright so now it's processed for just a few minutes so all I'm going to do is I'm going to pull this foil out and I'm just going to use a spray bottle the reason why I like using jzq is because you don't have to necessarily shampoo it out afterwards so I'm just gonna make sure that it rinse it really good with a spray bottle and just kind of pull it through with this towel and then we'll just dry this little section that we just put in so now you guys can see that just blended that little spotty piece out and now she has a beautiful blend and that took me maybe 10 extra minutes but it's so so worth it so your client doesn't go home unsatisfied with their color and here is our final result oh my gosh I love how it turned out we got so many beautiful blonde tones in there super blended and that tip where is shared with you guys is that last five minutes makes such a big difference so I hope that you guys try that out even if you have clients that don't necessarily have blended color that's a really quick way to fix it before they go home alright guys thank you so much for watching this video I hope that you learned something new and that you're gonna try out my new secret sauce with the acidic milk runs from biologic it is amazing I love the way that it feels it helps with the detangling of the hair and I absolutely love how this method works with my signature foil attached technique so if you guys recreate this look on your own make sure to tag me in your stories or if you're watching this video screenshot it share it on your stories and tag me so that I can see that you're watching I love connecting with those of you who are watching my videos and seeing the stuff that you recreated if you haven't already said hi over on Instagram come on over it's ten Museum say hi I want to know what you loved about this video and a light bulb moment that you took away from it so thank you guys for watching and I'll see you guys next time [Music]

Channel: Jamie Dana

Views: 2,012,396

Keywords: how to balayage dark hair, dark hair balayage, foilayage technique, how to balayage, how to foilayage, hair technique, hair education, thick hair balayage, long hair balayage

Id: 718wW5dD2Qc

Length: 29min 44sec (1784 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 22 2019