5 DIY Projects to Help You Remodel Your Kitchen

in this video I'm going to show you easy remodeling projects that'll help you to transform your kitchen from this to something that looks like this and it's going to save you a ton of money so if you're like most people with an older kitchen you've got solid wood cabinets and if once you have that gift here's the deal you can repaint your cabinets change your countertop add a new backsplash change your flooring and change your faucet out probably for about three thousand dollars and we're going to show you all the steps tips and tricks so that you can do that yourself and get about a fifteen thousand dollar value in your home today's video we are restoring this kitchen we're gonna paint the cabinets that's a lot of work I'm going to show you every step you need so that you can have a successful remodeling of your kitchen stay tuned so one of the most dramatic things that you can do in your home for increasing not only just the value but its physical appearance and your durability is to paint your kitchen cabinets ah so let's get into this because there's a lot of ground to cover there are a lot of different kinds of cabinets that are made and let's start with the doors because you have two basic things going on you have a door and you've got the box in this case our door is solid wood and our box is a melamine or a particle board with a vinyl finish on it okay so you have a lot of different kinds of surfaces that all need to be treated differently when you're painting your project now solid wood is simple it's wood right you're gonna paint it but this product here right away you know this has got to stay this like a whitewash doke if this was a new product and then whitewashed oak might be a water-based stain it might be an oil-based stain so that's the first question you gotta solve because no matter how much sanding you do on oak because of the texture you're always going to have some of that finish sitting there and let's use a chemical stripper so sanding isn't enough you need to know what products you're gonna use so that you get the right kind of bond now before we get started we want to take out go up to the bathroom and steal this from your wife or if you use this yourself make sure that you have a new polish remover with acetone or you might even have acetone in your garage for basic cleaning and what you want to do is just take this and rub it on the surface of the door and see if anything comes up in that case that's a know if acetone doesn't remove the surface then the surface is oil-based problem solved and I can demonstrate that by doing this because the client had previously done some paintwork here okay there we go there's the brown paint that she had put on the inside of that door as a test Berger color and she hated it by the way but just to demonstrate that problem that technique works really well for helping you identify if it's gonna be a water base or an oil-based product once we have that problem solved we know how to move forward with our products but the techniques are interesting would you use light sanding with the vinyl you have to go extremely light sanding and you have to use the right kind of primer so we'll get into all those products later in the project but for now let's start from the beginning and what you need to do to prep your kitchen first of all what we need to do is we need to remove all the doors because you don't want to do the painting in the room you're working in yeah this is going to take a few days and it's gonna make a lot of mess so you want to do is you want to find a place in your house where you can set up a station to paint all of these things depending on the time of year and the temperature and the humidity you might want to use a garage you might be able to use the basement you might be able to just throw some tarps down in your living room and set up a workstation there but I would suggest not trying to do this job in the kitchen because you still need to live and that means you need to eat so what I want to do is I want to make my life simple because there are so many doors and drawers I want to just get a piece of tape on everything in this kitchen and I want to mark down my numbers I stopped them to start at the top left just like reading a book left or right and your number everything off so everything goes back where it came from that way you don't have to readjust all your doors and drawers after you reinstall them because they're going to be able to be in the same condition as they're in now okay so the beginning of the project is quite simple now we have all of our doors numbered we have a workstation set up that we're going to be doing all the work in and we now have to remove all of these doors most of the hardware nowadays is really simple it has a quick release tab in the back okay and you can just pop it off now if that's not the case you might have Hardware where you've got to put your Phillips bit on an adjustable screw here and then you can slide it off and leave the hardware on the wall your worst case scenario if that's not the case and it's it's a hinge that screwed to the cabinet and then screwed to the door and it doesn't have a releasing mechanism you may need to undo the screws that are attached to your door and then remove the door from the hardware entirely and leave all the hardware attached to the cabinet that's fine if you have a cabinet that's got a picture frame or a surface that's going to get painted as well so we want to remove all the hardware from all of our surfaces and that's as simple as pulling the screws try not to lose them there we go and you'll see that they just pop right out okay now just a quick note if you have a kitchen cabinet that has an IKEA hinge on it it has a locking cam mechanism that actually causes little rubber pieces in the back here to expand so all you do is you would take a knife and pry that locking mechanism up and then it pops out there's no screws involved in that system at all so here we go now these little plastic things here are actually really really important they're like a plug that's in the oak wood to receive the screw so when we're refinishing these cabinets we want to leave these plugs alone make sure you leave them in there because you don't want to have to come back later and take all that air the only thing I would suggest is remove the little tabs that are on here that keep the door from being really noisy when you close it and you want to remove your handle and pull the screw out now when you're refinishing your kitchen if you want to keep the hardware and put the same hardware back on you're gonna save a lot of steps but if your Hardware dates your kitchen and you want to put in something new then you have an opportunity you can save this hole and drill a new hole with new hardware later or if you already have poles on your doors and you have two holes by Hardware with the same dimension on it okay so it's if it's a three inch by three inch handles and that way you won't have to do any filling and sanding and repairing of the door before you get moving forward if they're in good shape and you're going to keep your hardware this is a real quick process okay what you want to have have your ziploc bag I prefer the freezer bags because they're really Hardy in it and you just throw all that in there all your screws and bits okay close that up get out your marker and put on here number six this is really important because all of your doors and drawers that are in here are going to be set especially for that piece of the cabinet you don't have to come back and make all your adjustments all over again now if your cabinets need to be adjusted you can throw them all in the same bag and you can do all your adjusting when you're finished but in this case these doors are actually lined up pretty good so I want to just kind of keep things simple the only other thing you might want to do is take your marker and put a little mark on the hinge and that'll mark whether it's the top or the bottom for you [Music] get out of the sight line okay so you can see it doesn't take long to pull a kitchen apart if you got the quick release you just spend more time on the other side taking all the hardware off the doors but this is it now your kitchen is prepped the only thing we're gonna be painting in this kitchen because of this style is the actual little bits of facade that are on the side of the cabinets that are showing you know this little valance I think the side of the pantry door over there is gonna have to be repainted as well but because the doors takes so much more prep what I want to do is the one that get on the doors prepped do those until we're ready to start painting and then we can come back and do a little bit of prep on this in the morning and we can paint everything all at the same time it's gonna be probably a three to four day project just because we like to make sure we let it all sit at the time of year that we're in is about springtime high moisture in the air and because we're using a water-based paint we want to give it lots of time to set up and dry properly so though I don't want to rush things and have a problem now here's a trick we have a microwave shelf and this is just the veneer so what I'm gonna do is I'm actually gonna remove this and I'm gonna go pick up a piece of solid pine and cut it to fit this space and paint it like the rest of the cabinetry because I know that even after the this plastic vinyl here that's covering all the doors after this stuff is painted it's not durable no matter what you do we can give it a bit of texture we can paint it nice and it'll look pretty but it's not very durable so it's not good for a shelf so we want to do is they take your drill and underneath there's gonna be four set screws usually there we go and these are cabinet screws and they have a washer head on them they're generally around 3/4 of the thickness of the two layers of material added together and that's all they used to attach it so you can replace those four and you can actually save them for later just by putting them back in with a quick little twist [Music] now that I have my microwave shelf I'm not gonna just pitch it in the garbage I'm going to save this as a template so that I can use this to make my shelf replacement now drawers are a little bit different because there's a drawer face and then there's a drawer and we want to remove the face from the drawer itself and in this case it's five screws and we're going to have to that's alright we're gonna have to get some space in here and we want to first take the handle off okay then we have four set screws that are holding the face to the drawer we want to remove these screws only halfway well would you look at that these drawer faces are not just screwed on they are stapled on as well so unfortunately if I try to take that door face off I'm gonna run the risk of damaging this drawer itself the drawer is made of half-inch particle board material I am NOT going to take the chance that I'm going to be able to remove that without destroying the drawer and that causes a brand-new kind of issue so what I'm gonna do for now is I'm gonna treat all of these drawers and they have to be site finished where they are I'm just gonna see which ones I want to leave in the kitchen and which ones I'm going to take out to the shop entirely I think the home owner is gonna be able to appreciate having access to their silverware oh my so what we're gonna do is we're gonna finish these drawer faces attached to their cabinet when we come and take care of all of these other parts of the facade and we're gonna take all the doors off sight these are actually a lot simpler to finish because they don't have all the detail all right so this is actually quite easy to sand with a palm sander one of the reasons I want to take all the drawer door faces away and take it to my shop is because the contour in this panel it takes a lot of work actually to take the stain and get the finish off of there and do it effectively so that requires a little bit more precision than just throwing a palm sander on it and I want to have it in a different environment this is gonna be simple I can set up my palm sander on a vacuum come in and give this a good scuff with the transition primer and it'll perform just fine but this this is a lot more work trying to make sure all these met your nooks and crannies here are filled in and saying it properly so I'm just gonna finish taking the rest of my doors off get them loaded into my truck to take back to my workshop and then we'll meet you back there to continue on the process of how to prep these things up and get them all painted so we're back at the shop now and I'm gonna go through all the steps that are necessary in order to take it from this to a beautiful piece of finished painted wood now when you have to be careful of a couple of things when you get started one these little door stops you want to get these removed because you can see the unfinished wood underneath there alright so those garbage you can go to the store when we're all finished and we can buy a package of brand-new stops and we'll apply those when we install the doors at the very end of the project for now here we are looks like we're ready to sand except for one thing we need to clean this first because it comes from a kitchen depending how old it is and what kind of condition your cabinets are in you are gonna have varying degrees of cleaning necessary here but you don't want to start sanding until you've cleaned because natural wood doors have got texture and that texture if you put a sand pad to it it's gonna start rubbing all of that grease into the grain are you gonna trap it there and then when you go to paint you're gonna be very disappointed with the results so the type of cleaner that you want to use depends on the person and the condition the situation but generally like a TSP like a trisodium phosphate they come in powder you mix it yourself or they also come in spray form I just went down and I grabbed an all-purpose degreaser because I'm not looking for a chemical like a TSP where I've got to actually wash it off when I'm done this is you just spray and wipe and walk away they're in good shape they aren't very greasy there's no real surface dirt not covered in tomato sauce I'm not expecting a big issue so we're just gonna spray that on liberally and we're just gonna wipe it off with our blue shop towels and what I'm looking for here is just a physical inspection of this rag when I'm done and then I can find out how much dirt is on there now that's pretty darn clean so as a result I'm not gonna spend all day long trying to wash my wood I'm just gonna take this wet rag double-check the sides you're gonna be surprised majority of the dirt is gonna be right around where the handle is from people's hands all right and on the backside here that'll be where most of the dirt is once we've got this cleaned up now we're ready the sand so for sanding there's a couple of products you're going to need one is an orbital sander and you can get these where they go in circles or vibrating okay so either one will do the job if you get the kind that just vibrates you can actually buy these with a square or a triangular tip and that can be real beneficial for getting into the corners but because we have a detailed door we're gonna need a sanding sponge as well and the reason for that is we want to actually get that sponge press it into the detail and then sand out the detail okay now here's the thing we already tested this we know it's an oil base yes you could get chemical strippers involved and you can go crazy I don't think it's necessary technology today makes it so that it's not necessary to take this back all the way to the bare wood what we want to do here is just transition it into a new product that we can finish and that's going to have the resistance and that wear and tear that we're looking for so we're just looking to scuff this up so that we have a texture that will receive our transition primer once we have that texture we can move forward instead of having to go back to the chemical strippers if you're going to use an orbital sander of course we have to take precaution there's a lot of fine dust being kicked out by that so you wear your mask okay if you're dealing with really old cabinets or if you're adding new products that are solvent based buy this one okay this is good for all of those odors as well that are dangerous in the air this is just a particulate mask this will take care of the order as well we're not going to be using solvents on worried about it I'll just wear this version of the diaper woo like a glove this sander has two adapters one is a cartridge filter and that can attach and then you're just running the dust right into this box the other adapter is here and this is actually designed to be attached to your vacuum so you can actually vacuum while you're sanding for the purpose of what we're doing here today I'm going to avoid turning that vacuum on cuz that just gets a little bit too loud and we're not really making a whole lot of a mess yeah for sanding the surfaces orbital sander I'm using a 150 120 grit that's plenty you don't have to go any more coarse than that the only trick here is you want to line up the holes relatively speaking because that's what the vacuum is going to be sucking all the dust through the holes and then through your filter you don't line them up the dust is gonna go everywhere [Music] now you want to do your best to sand with the green and again we're not taking it back down to bare wood we're just scuffing the surface to get ready for transition primer so don't over sand you don't need to spend all day long in this process [Applause] [Laughter] [Applause] [Music] make sure you do all your sides and of course the entire back generally speaking the back of the door doesn't get a lot of wear and tear but it's that one time if you don't say in this before you do your transition primer so that one time a plate or a ring from someone's hand is going to scratch across that if you don't prep it properly it's going to disappoint you so take the time and do a ring now just a word this particular hardware has plastic caps that went inside a pre-drilled hole I'm gonna do my best not to damage those and remove them because when I put the hardware back on there's nothing there to be worried about I'm actually only gonna see the context around it so when I'm sanding when I'm painting everything I'm gonna leave these here and work around them and I'm not gonna be too concerned about what happens inside that area when you're done sanding take your cloth put a little bit of your degreaser on there and just wipe over your surface basically what you're doing is just trying to remove the dust and the debris from the surface that's all so that our transition primer isn't going to be competing with the dust that's on there in order to get a good grab the other thing you can do is you can hook up your air compressor over the blower and give it a good shot with that if you have one handy that is a great way to finish this as well ok so now we've got our sanding finished it's time for our transition primer this is a product I used by Dulux and it works amazing and I love it and so what I need is a paint tray and I need a roller now I've seen a lot of videos they talk about using these foam rollers when you're doing cabinetry work but I'll be honest with you I would prefer going with this ten millimeter microfiber foam rollers to me just seemed to pick up too much air bubbles and cause a texture issue and you don't get that nice smooth finish you're looking for so I'm gonna use this bad boy but my paint tray is a disaster and I am out of liners so I'm going to show you a paint trick oh my goodness take your paint tray put it in the garbage bag instant liner okay now if you don't own a five in one tool and you're gonna paint go buy one this cleans rollers opens cans helps to repair the drywall puts dents so you can fill them up and is the easiest way to open up a can of paint all right let's try to portion out what you think you're gonna use and there we go I know this is crazy if you can remove the paint from inside that edge then you can close that lid over and over and over again without having issues okay so try to clean that out as best you can give that attack now I buy these little nitrile gloves for doing stain work and that sort of thing and I'll be honest with you I generally don't paint with gloves on but this process is going to take a few hours and I'm going to be going back and forth between a couple of different kinds of paint and I'm gonna be touching a lot of edge okay let's face it these cabinet doors are tiny there's a lot of detailed work here and since I'm going to be taking a lot of edges and painting them here and then transferring to a drying station I just thought you know this one time I wear the gloves alright here we go brush and roll right so the idea is like anything else you want to fill up inside the brush okay and then take the extra off less is more and you want to paint from inside the brush not the outside it'll reduce your drips okay and the whole point here start in the edge and you work your way to where's the middle from both corners so you put it in the edge and you pull towards the middle alright making sure to get it in the crack because these are two separate pieces of wood so you want to get that nicely filled I would hesitate trying to fill it with any kind of caulking it's going to cause you a great deal of regret it's not gonna finish nice now if you get any brush lines make sure you pull them out okay there we go now I'm gonna show you another trick because this channel is full of nothing but tips and tricks this is my new favorite friend I love this product but using it for years any time I'm doing a minor patch or stain kill or anything that I need a good solid primer my favorite trick for this is actually an old set of stairs I can spray all this down on the oil paint and then finish a couple of coats of latex over top it and make it look brand new if you want to make your life simple this one can I'll do a kitchen now I'm not gonna suggest you spray the entire door with this but because the the detail that's in this door if you want to make your life easy you can use this as a spray primer just for the detail this is a shellac based paint and it is like a spray paint of course so will drip and it will run and if you have any of that just wipe it off out of the way and then let it dry okay if you get proficient with this kind of product you can try them all of this detail in just a few minutes and it'll save you a lot of time and effort alright of course in order to finish your priming you can use the brush on these edges here all right I'm going to suggest letting you do all four sides of the edge while you have this end okay you want to follow with the green and don't worry too much about the texture of the surface we are going to sand between coats so don't get hung up on that if you have paint pooling in a corner you have a big bubble by all means get it but don't worry about brush lines just want to clean all this up there we go look at this I'm still working from inside that one brush amazing how much paint a brush will hold once I have all five sides done I am going to pull out this thing here my trusty roller and I'm gonna roll the inside I've already got lint that's great now you'll see the process here you're gonna have a lot more paint on here than you want okay and this is the danger and that's why I'm showing you the hard way first there's more paint there than you want as a surface primer all right if you're not careful you're also gonna get it all over your edging and you're gonna be back and forth like this all day long just priming up your door not necessary so the way you solve this problem of having too much paint on a door is sand all your doors first and then when they're ready to go cut all your edges then go back and put some paint on and then go to the next door do two or three at once with a full roller and then you can come back and stretch it all out okay you'll see that when your roller is dry you have a lot more control you can even do all of the flat surfaces if you don't want to use your brush okay again it comes down to comfort but I prefer to do all my flat surfaces with the roller instead of a brush now all we do is take this set it to our drying area and you can set this up anywhere you like I think the best for me that I found is just get a couple of two by fours I'm on the ground in a corner and stack all your drawers your doors across that that's a perfect way to let them dry it takes about a half an hour so once your door is primed and it has dried completely usually let it have a good couple of hours don't be in a hurry here because you are gonna use a mechanical sanding machine and you don't want to sand all of this off real easily if it hasn't had time to dry and bond properly you're gonna be disappointed to have to paint them all over again so what I would suggest if you have the time in the patient's primary thing one day and then do your first coat the next day and then your second coat after lunch and here's why we are going to be switching out our sandpaper and we're going to go from our 120 gotta love the hook loop and we're gonna switch that over to the 220 now I like to buy them in different colors because then it keeps me honest and I don't forget that I got to switch it out again line up the holes get ready to go once we're sanded we're gonna be using the Dulux melamine paint seen a couple of videos done with this kind of product and they're talking about using something that's not an eggshell but it's not semi-gloss somewhere in the middle this product here it's amazing it's a melamine paint so it gets you that nice smooth finish without the semi gloss shine it's also got additives in there so it's really really durable and they're really helped your kitchen cabinets perform so if you haven't seen this product used before feel free to stop by the Dulux stores or PPG paints and have them talk to you about the benefits of this I love this stuff I've worked on it before doing some custom working kitchens and really pleased with the results because we're sanding and I should put this back on my face oh god help us all okay here we are now we've got our 220 pad and again this is really simple we're just trying to take off any little bumps that are sitting in the paint so that we have a nice surface texture I'm not trying to take this back to the wood of course [Music] and that is if the other option that you have of course and you'll see that even with just doing that exposed a couple of spots the other option of course is just take a sanding block you can get these medium or fine grit or if you have a medium grit and that's old keep these handy in case you ever get this project and you can just pass it over the surface real quick okay whenever we're painting between coats the goal here is not to create a texture that'll bond it's not to do anything other than to take off ridges and bumps okay so same thing get the corner right in that groove just to help guarantee you're defining that space okay anything that looks like it's a blemish I dress it that there we go of course when you're done tack cloth or use a little air pressure that'll do the job now same process okay I would suggest you start clean fill your brush with paint on the inside and then you're just going to pull it pushing it in the corner and then pull alright and then just clean it all up make sure that there's no ridges all right there we go now painting a cabinet door is actually relatively simple it's just time consuming and the secret is in not using too much paint and the way we deal with that is I'm painting the trim area here the detail but then I'm taking the brush and I'm painting the outside of this picture framing as well while I'm at it and the reason I'm doing that is because this gives me the ability to get rid of the excess paint that's stuck in that brush so I'm not leaving it all in the ridges and I'm not causing drips all right so here's my process I get in the corner and pull right now I'm going to pull in the direction of the green here and I'm also going to paint the edge with the excess paint that's left on this surface here one of the things you want to be careful of when you're painting is this concept of less is more you might take a little bit of experience but you really need to trust the technology that's in the paint nowadays this paint acts like a self leveler you put it on and then it'll it'll spread out while it's drying and gets rid of all these brush lines and it gets really good coverage a good quality paint gives you such good coverage that you don't hardly need any to get the result that you want and it allows you to still see the grain of the wood underneath the paint there we go that is absolutely beautiful okay now the same thing with the door I'm using a 10 mil roller and this one I didn't load up just see how there's hardly any paint on there same thing I'm gonna take the time to stretch this out for the purpose of our demonstration here I don't want to run it up against the hedges now you'll see I don't know how well that shows on the camera but I hardly brought any paint over here at all and I can just run this back and forth all day long and before you know it it's been stretched out and everything is completely covered look at that now to duplicate the same texture on the sides just run it over real quick so that you don't have a different texture left from the roller and the brush on your flat surfaces done now we wanted to of course do the sides as well this is easy sometimes you just use the roller again all the way around when it's dry there'll be just enough paint left in that roller that you can do that and then you want to let this sit for a few hours I would suggest probably five or six overnight again is better the more patient you are the better the result come back take your sanding block give it a quick shot just in case there's any more dust in the area and then give it in one more coat and that is all you need now if you want when you're all finished you can go back with a lacquer finish but like I said if you're using a regular latex paint you probably need some sort of a lacquer or a finish coat to protect the door but if you're using a melamine paint from Dulux you don't need that step it'll save you a lot of time and aggravation it also makes touching up your cabinets a later date really really simple because you can keep this stuff stored and if you ever do have damage during your install you can actually take the time to fix it and you don't have to worry about matching your lacquer as well as your paint there we go so the other type of process that you're going to see in your kitchen most wooden kitchens are going to have fillers valances microwave shelves like this one here and in most cases or even the exposed side of a cabinet most cases the price point that kitchens are purchased at you're not going to get these in solid wood and stained a lot of the fillers and and and miscellaneous trim boards are all basically an MDF material with a vinyl skin we'll call it plastic okay so you can't take a mechanical sander or 220 and sand that down it'll just eat a hole right through the thing you're gonna run into trouble so what you want to do is take some steel wool now this is not the core stuff this is actually for fine woodworking just 4:0 is actually used when you have a piece of wood is covered in bare thene some sort of finish like that and you want to just polish it up and you can just polish them and get rid of all the dirt and bumps and make it shine that's what this is for and this is what we're going to use here we're actually going to just rub it in circles and the idea here is we're gonna allow this steel wool to create our bonding texture for our primer because we can use a transition primer on this kind of material just like we did on the wood because it's designed to bond just about anything to anything now it's not gonna look any different it's not gonna feel any different but know that once you've done the steelwill application you're gonna have just enough texture there you can take your paint and you can roll okay the fact that this is even rolling means there's texture on there if there was no texture it would just slide across like a big schmear but the fact that I can dry roll this means that that worked here we go I got just enough texture even dry rolling that is brilliant and again what we're doing here is we're relying on the technology of the materials that we're using we're not relying on the texture of the surface this transition primer once it gets a chance to bond properly and cure and your finished coat of paint gets a chance to cure give over that put this microwave shelf back on and slide your microwave in place and it's not going to cause any damage at all okay so once your transition primer is dry go back to your mechanical sander you can then use your 220 sandpaper just like any other painted surface again when we're doing our sanding in between coats what we're dealing with this is the surface of what's painted not what's underneath so all of a sudden now we've got our transition primer on here we have a brand new surface so just treat it like an any other painted surface and you'll be fine okay so we are back on the jobsite today today is the day we have to handle all these little miscellaneous elements the skins beside the hood fan gables on the cabinets that sort of thing so I guess your first step is clean out your room we got to remove the fridge we got to move the hood fan and then we can TSP all of those surfaces make sure they're also free from grease double check quick note I will nowadays a lot of the kick plates around the cabinets are also done in the vinyl skin so that's the way it is here that has to be cleaned and painted as well don't miss that element I know it's underneath the cabinet but if you miss that today a couple weeks from now if you're sitting down for dinner look across the room ago oh my god look how ugly that is so we're going to prep the room make sure it's all ready to go use a couple of black garbage bags on top of the counters and appliances that way it's acts like a drop cloth I like to use the black bag just because if I have a drip or I see I'm making a mess it's really obvious to me once we get that done and we clean all of our surface then we're going to sand all of these vinyl skins again now we showed you earlier in the video that we use a little bit of steel wool for that we have a large surface so you can use a sanding disc I like to use 120 grit but don't put it on the sander just use it by hand okay so just grab a hold of it and use it as a hand sand again we're just lightly scuffing the surface so that'll hold to the bonding primer and then once we get all of that done then we can start getting our first coat of paint on and then it's just a matter of hang on the doors and making sure it's all level so let's get working okay so we're gonna remove the hood fan because we have skins on both sides and just a little bit of space but not enough to get a brush and roller in there and we don't want to try to maneuver back and forth we just want to remove it and then reinstall it now we've got a video about how to change your hood fan in our library so you can check the little icon that looks like a magnifying glass put in a hood fan and then there'll be a description probably a link at the end of this video max I'm sure will take care of that that way you can follow that step along yeah typical there's no more right there be very careful in messing with this stuff because you don't want to blow yourself up so like an idiot I forgot my degreaser today when I came lucky for me the client had her tsp this is the new TSP product it's an environmentally safe version my guess is that they had some issues with the political correctness of phosphates so they've corrected that which is lovely so it's just a part mix with warm water and we don't need a lot of scrubbing here we're just gonna make sure that our surface is somewhat clean again just removing the grease because we're not gonna use a lot of mechanical sanding I want to make sure we've got a good surface to bond to so the next step of course is to sand and this is a 150 grit and I'm just gonna go like this just using my hands like a sanding block again you can see on this surface if you go especially the circular motion you'll see the scratches and this is how you know you've scratched it up okay so like this you really can't see what you're doing but if you go a circular you're going up against the wall just fold your paper in half and put your hand in the way so it acts like a guide so you're not gonna scratch the wall except that so then when you're done before you paint just take a damp cloth or a tack cloth and just wipe real quick they get the dust off the surface there's no sense painting that in because then that's just one more thing you're gonna have to sand off later so again this is our transition primer we're gonna be cutting and rolling the cutting is just a fancy word for using a brush to draw a line without making a mess so we're gonna put the heel of the brush in on the angle brush and then push the tip so go heal the tip then we're gonna run a brush line down the side of that cabinet so that we don't make a mess on the wall if you follow this technique you won't have to use tape and seal everything off and if you want to you could tape everything off of course but I prefer to brush by cutting in I find I can paint just as fast as most people can tape off a room I can have the whole room painted so I've learned not to use tape when I paint even on something like this now when you get to the front of this cabinet we don't want to paint the surface all right and if you use the roller here you're gonna make a mess so use your your brush and cut that edge as well and the secret here of not getting any paint on it is when you get to the bottom if the if the metal part of your brush stays the level with the bottom of the surface the bristles all be coming away if you go down like this they'll curl underneath and make a mess on the bottom of the cabinet alright it's the same thing here we're gonna go down and pull all heal off all right now we have our edge defined we can take the roller but basically there you go with a little bit of pressure you want to just kind of move whatever paint you have there around to even out your texture here we go when you're done your surface take a cloth set it up and just do a quick rundown each edge see look at that I found a little bit of paint do the bottom as well nice and clean better to do it now it's hard to clean this transition primer off later if you find it keep it clean as you go because it is a transition primer and this really bonds to just about anything do some of this without getting any paint on the wall again when you're painting with the brush you want to paint from the paint that's inside the brush not on the outside make sure you force the paint inside the brush and then you can draw a line with your brush so you can see that in the beginning we taped all the doors and drawers off because we were gonna remove the faces I'll just take this out usually that easy you can see on the camera that I had these four screws in the corner as well as the screw that holds the handle we started taking apart and I realized well there's a staple on here as well in all four corners and the actual material on this drawer is quite thin on the front of the face so here is my concern if I try to take the face off I've got staples I'm going to have damage that's gonna be hard to correct and if they use any adhesive on this as well when they stapled it we're gonna run the risk of causing damage to this drawer that I can't repair so what we did is we said to leave it and we'll do all of this together when we come in and do the skins so what we're gonna do is we're gonna leave the garbage bags on the counter now that we got this area done I'll save the hardware for later so we're prepping our drawer by removing the door hardware taking off the little silent stop sit on the back for when you closed of course we're gonna get our TSP out this is usually the dirtiest part on any cabinet is right around the handle all across the top we're gonna have oils from people's hands want to get all that wiped up okay and then we're gonna want to sand now in this situation you could use your orbital sander but because I'm painting in this room I don't want to be doing anything that's kicking the dust up in the air so we're just going to use a hand sanding block and you want to make sure you get every one of these surfaces preparation is really the key here folks just because you have a great product like a transition primer doesn't mean you get to get lazy everything can always bond a little bit better be a little bit cleaner be a little bit more scuffed up so take your time although it feels like it takes a long time if you try to cut a corner with your sanding you're gonna be really disappointed with the results at the end of the day and honestly it takes a whole minute a drawer it's worth the investment there we go take my rag I'm just gonna the extra dust off and then once again we're going to cut and rule the entire surface while it's attached really want to just get all these edges and I'm gonna suggest not using a roller on all these edges are you gonna create so many drips that have to be cleaned up you must be going running around in circles so once again I'm using a garbage bag as a tray liner I love my garbage bags but this roller fell into the big soup so I'm using the 5:1 the curved edge and I'm literally trying to take out as much of this paint as I can okay off this roller before I paint the door face I don't want to have this thing saturated or it'll just be like sliding around making a huge mess so now that we have this pretty much dried out I'm not even using any pressure look at how much paint is coming off that roller okay so now when I apply pressure it's Noor to get coverage and I'm not going to be forcing paint to be dripping off all the edges so dry rolling your primer is definitely a good idea there we go all right yeah max wants to see if I can do this left-handed that's not as easy today it's not gonna hold myself still but the same concept applies clean just brush from inside and it's all about technique here not speed watch the heel of the brush I am NOT left-handed but if you follow the technique doesn't matter how good of a painter you are the technique is solid there we go [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so here we are we have this huge screen panel my suggestion is just keep the same six inch roller there's no real reason to set up another pink here with a traditional roller I know it seems like a lot of space but it's best a couple minutes rolling it you'll end up with a nice product you're going to end up spending 10 or 15 minutes just cleaning up the other roller anyway [Music] okay so all of our skins have got the primer on it's all nice and dry relatively speaking it's been an hour we just had lunch so now I'm coming back with the sanding sponge and I am NOT trying to scuff the surface this particular product bonds amazing with the paint what I am doing is just making sure that I don't have any large dust or dirt particles so I'm just doing a little bit of a circle here the idea just to make sure does any debris that's in my way I can get rid of it I'm sure that I have a nice smooth surface to work with just a little tip when you're working with your paint pour out enough that you'd only leave about an inch inch and a half in the bottom of the can that's perfect because now my brush I can force it into there clean off all the paint that's on the edges and the only thing that's left is paint that's inside the brush not on the outside and that is how you cut out making a mess this is like a really sticky paint man yeah you don't want to get it all over yourself when you're working all right well the secrets of rolling with a material like this because it has the ability to cover such a huge amount of space that's a little amount of paint is you really want to stretch your first roll mark out over a large area then you want to go back and then just push the paint around it cover it up okay and then as you're finishing hopefully your roller is dry enough that leaves a nice consistent texture if it's not don't rub some paint off somewhere and then come back so you have a nice consistent texture texture on the wall there we go there we go okay so the second coat I like to do once the doors are back in place of course I've got the insides and the outsides all painted but because I'm moving this to new location I have no guarantee the condition the door wouldn't arise and I would rather get the last coat while it's hanging in place just in case there's any damage that needs to be repaired from transportation I can deal with all that at the same time besides this really doesn't take that long to throw a coat of paint on a door and everywhere where you work you're gonna different lighting different environments it's just nice to have it in this final resting place when you do the final coat okay sorry now in order to finish the coat I just put a little bit of paint on each to the inside of these doors I don't want to just back roll until the coverage is really nice again I'm just using whatever pressures necessary to get a nice even coat then I'm gonna also put a little bit of texture on the doors where I rolled I'll use the brush sorry there we go no the only other thing that has to be done of course is putting the door Hardware on I'm gonna wait till the next day to come back and do that because I don't want to risk damaging the surface while I'm messing around with the hardware if you're using a color that doesn't look like it's gonna cover very well you can actually add the color into your primer so you can take your primer and then it gets the equivalent of three coats of coverage with your color so that you don't have any bleeding through I didn't do that here because I'm using a relatively white color and tinting white into a white primer it isn't really effective but if you're using something with a little bit more personality and you wanted to guarantee coverage sometimes tinting the primer is a great way to go [Music] I don't know how well the camera picks this up because we're dealing with a natural wood there are some areas here where this joint is you can see some light brown staining coming through and generally speaking that's just the sap from the oak it's very here and there oh there's a lot of it on this corner here Wow yeah that really shows you can see that the reason you can see that is because when we are using our our transition primer it's it's a water-based product that I'll that bonds to oil so it's not a sealer the same way that a stain blocker would work so what you're gonna find is when you're done you want to give yourself about a week maybe even two and then all these little spots are gonna show up and that's not a problem because all you do is you get a stain sealer and I like to use aerosol kills it's a shellac based product it's the same product I use to seal all of the detail like you can see this this was done and kills no dark yellow where the kills didn't show up at the stain comes through so we'll wait and find out where all the stains are that come through and there might be just a few spots so might be all over the place it doesn't really matter one said well it's all made itself apparent then we're gonna come back do it a stained block a little touch-up something like this because this product takes 30 days to cure there's a possibility over the next few weeks there's gonna be a couple of Nicks and scratches don't get worked up over it takes a while for paint to cure so this is the kind of process make it look like it's done in a hurry but unless you're gonna let these doors sit for a month and you're gonna add spraying a blocker everywhere this is what you're in for so don't be alarmed and if you have this kind of work done in your house and you see that there's stains coming through it's very normal with solid wood so don't get worked up over it just call your company up who did the work inform them that they're gonna have to do a service call look at a few weeks away so that all these different areas will show up and then you'll get it all taken care of and you live happily ever after well that's pretty much it we're just finishing the last coat on the last couple of doors here we're gonna be back in a couple of weeks well tag this on the video but we're gonna come back and do the stain blocking I know that's gonna be an issue I see some places already even after 24 hours there's bound to be a few more issues that a polka the heads up by then so what is way to deal with it all at the same time and who knows maybe by then we might even have some mother work to do okay so it's been a couple of weeks since we put the cabinet doors in and got the page I've done but since then of course the granite guys have come in they've done a measuring and a reinstall of the countertops now these are beautiful quartz and I'm here today because I need to reinstate all the plumbing and we have a beautiful sunny day which is the perfect time to do our touch-ups on her doors when we did the install originally it was a little overcast kind of late winter but now spring is sprung and I am able to see all the minor imperfections little places where the grain of the wood is absorbed the paint more than the texture next to it so I can see I don't you probably can't even see it on the camera but I can tell I need to hit something here I needed one more coat right because there are highs and lows in the grains there is a different material in the wood that the paint will react and respond to differently and you'll get different levels of absorption and you want your finished coat to be very consistent and so in this kind of light you just pass back and forth and you can see all the areas where you just need a little bit of a shot now we're really pleased because we didn't have any rubbish there's no Ben no damage in using the kitchen so obviously our primer and paint technique has been very effective this is just a little quality control one extra step that you know generally speaking nobody in the industry ever takes time for it and that's making sure that on a beautiful bright sunny day it looks just as nice as it did when they it's all cloudy out we were relying on the lights of the room but it is amazing how different things are natural light okay so here we go would probably take 15 or 20 minutes we'll just run around the room have a good look make sure that all of my spots I'm happy with nice and of course I can only look at it from one direction here okay we'll also inspect inside the cabinets looking for any of that staining I'm not seeing any issues here at the moment I've already contact the client and asked if they've seen any discoloration and there hasn't been any problem well there we have it that's all the whole system for repainting the existing kitchen this allows you to get a brand new look without the expense of changing all the doors now the thing is is it takes a little bit of blood sweat and tears material costs for this project was less than a hundred dollars all right a little bit of primer a gallon of paint and of course we put the new stickies on the back of the door the new bumpers yeah so everything is nice and soft really pleased with the way this turned out took probably about two hours to level off all the doors again that can be a bit of a trick okay so you expect to have some time to be patient there but other than that the process is simple prep prime paint paint paint put on the hardware and you're good to go brand new kitchen so if you like this kind of content give us a thumbs up we appreciate the interaction questions sure you're gonna have questions put them all below I will answer those questions every single day and we'll help you get through your project to see you next time so in today's video we are going to show you how to remove your boring builder formica countertops and we're going to transform your kitchen into something beautiful with this man-made quartz top this stuff is gorgeous so Formica tops let's just talk countertops for a second because a lot of homes are made with a Formica top kitchen and there's a reason for it the stuff is durable it comes in a variety different colors and textures and glazes and you can get just about any look you want with Formica and the price point is usually about twenty to twenty-five dollars a linear foot of counter space that's why it's used but we're gonna transform this because it seemed like the new normal nowadays is to have some sort of natural stone and that's a bit of an oxymoron because we're going back with quartz on this job which is not natural at all it's a man-made stone you need to understand that if you're using man-made stone in your kitchen it's been made with a resin and it does not handle heat very well so make sure you never put a hot pot on your course that being said let's show you how to remove this stuff and it's really quite simple again we're cutting silicon it's amazing how much silicon is used in the house alright so for the most part countertops are installed with gravity but because Formica isn't installed on a particle board and it is not always flat it is screwed down but it's not screwed from the surface that's screwed from underneath so as long as you know where to look usually four corners screw like this did nothing in the back corner well that was awfully nice something just remove a couple of drawers here get my drill in will lean into the back there's a screw here and that is all there is to it we'll put the drawers back right away because we don't need to have that access to anything when we put our quartz back because it is so heavy if we've done this right and they tile this right this countertop is now no longer attached to the cabinet and there should be a small gap between the stone and the countertop that's been covered with silicone we've cut we should be able to just slide this right out I'm gonna move the stove just a little bit get a good grip here [Music] you need a little bit more silicone in the back here give me a bit of a fight I usually end up with a black eye though here we go tada all right there we go help with the old and in with the new so this little piece of man made love probably about 100 pounds now we're doing with a lot of precision here no a lot of room for error we'll get it up here first yeah that is beautiful now what we're gonna do is we're gonna throw a couple of dabs of the sealing bond in the back corners just so that it'll have something that'll hold it in place now that needs a whole lot of help it's not gonna jump off but it may slide around here we go just lift the front and throw a little squeeze in here too you want to put that about two inches back just so doesn't end up squeezing out gluing your door shut or something there we go and that is an installed countertop amazing how simple that is so if you're updating your kitchen and you're changing your countertops just remember you have a few options you've got of course your Formica and there are luxury versions of Formica so don't discount that it's like I said it's about twenty-five dollars on the high side per linear foot a countertop we're generally speaking granite and quartz start at around the 50 to $60 range per square foot you're also paying for all the waste and offcut okay so it's not as simple as just measuring out your counter if you have any turns they're going to be cutting that out of another piece of stone and you're going to be buying all the stones used in the production process so keep that in mind you also have to deal with two things the man-made stuff the quartz lovely to have for ease of maintenance you don't have to use a sealer and it doesn't take any maintenance but what it does take is discipline okay you can't get it hot you can't put a hot pot on this because the resin will melt and it'll leave a mark the natural stone although it takes a sealer it's just a surface sealer usually apply it every two or three years takes about ten minutes not a big deal but you can put hot pots on granite and you'll never hurt that surface the other thing is with granite if you ever get a chip or a crack or any other kind of damage you can call up your Granite Pro from Ottawa Granite Pro and you can come out and he can do a surface repair on site while you wait and you'll never even notice your damage ever again the guy's amazing okay so the reason we are covering stone countertops granite quartz and otherwise as a DIY video which is kind of strange because you can't do your own countertop in this material the reason I'm covering this is because when you go to talk to your countertop company about this kind of material there's a few things that they're not going to do for you number one they're not going to remove your old countertops for you without charging an arm and leg number two they're not going to disengage your old plumbing and remove it out of the way at all most of these companies won't assume any liability dealing with the plumbing so you're gonna have to be in charge of your own plumbing so you even have to know how to disconnect turn the water supply off remove your faucet and then reinstate all the plumbing again when you're done this can take a lot of time all right and if you don't know how to do it then it is not a DIY then you're hiring three different professionals to come and work in your home and this becomes a very expensive process but the reality is this whole brand-new kitchen area here including these two pieces of quartz that are seamed together perfect you can't even see unbelievable this whole project here was just around $2,000 and since we're gonna do our own plumbing it's not a problem very affordable but since that's the new standard in some new homes today good luck trying to sell an old house with old counters because anybody who comes into your kitchen is going to see and go up just have to find a house that's got a finished kitchen most people don't want to renovate after they just finished buying so there we go we're done talking countertops today just a quick overview all I'm gonna do now is to try to get this customers plumbing back together before the weekend and if you like this kind of content and information hit the thumbs up button and if you have questions ask them below my god I love answering them for you helping you guys out and maybe at this time I'll say it okay subscribe to the channel if you haven't subscribed I haven't been asking a lot of that lately we've been having great response and really enjoying the growth of the channel YouTube's been great and we just love and being here so keep the questions coming looking forward to talking to you next time [Music] alright so today I'm going to show you guys a really great trick we're gonna take an old garbage piece of backsplash like this stuff stick like a biscuit and we're gonna put a brand new backsplash on but we're not gonna make a mess we're not going to incorporate a lot of time we're going right over top stay tuned so traditionally with doing a backsplash in the kitchen if you have existing tile you've got two options a lot of these things they're just put on with an adhesive but you know what when you're building new houses they do the adhesive before they even use a primer that's right they're right over top of drywall which means this tile is attached to the paper backing of the drywall so when you try to rip that off you're rip you all apart so but most guys in the renovation business have learned is if we just smash it up and cut the drywall top and bottom replace that whole piece of wall section and then put on the backsplash it's actually quicker and easier but I'll tell you that is a really big waste of time so for a DIY trick I've got a way to do a tile over the tile oh no you're gonna love it so what we're gonna do is just remove all of the electrical stuff of course almost everything electrical is attached with a number 632 screw to machine screws and that means number one Roberts any drill take these bad boys they because these are gonna be garbage we're gonna have to use longer screws we come back now if you don't feel comfortable playing around with live power turn it off just go downstairs most rooms the breaker panels are all labeled for kitchen if not well you can always apply some black tape just to make it a little bit safer I like to live on the wild side all right someone I'm doing in my backsplash my simple process is Bart garbage bags believe it or not when you have nice countertops you want to do something to protect them while you're working tarps are no good to you because they they just always slide enough garbage bags I almost have like this cling effect it's almost like using saran wrap and almost tape someplace look at that how cool is that it now a lot of people think that if you're gonna go tile over tile what you need to do is come over here or some sort of a machine and sand the ceramic tile down and honnestly that may have been true a long time ago but nowadays in the renovation business we're relying on technology not technique okay so boom you've seen this before if you watch our channel this is eco-friendly we use this as a floor level or primer I can convert sheet vinyl flooring into a substrate that I can tile over on concrete with this primer I can also use it on existing tile to install tile right over top with a cement oh my god do just bust my way in here think sometimes and I wish there was an easier way to get this done if anybody knows that open is easy putting it in the comment section below the guys at mat boy maybe you could put in a spigot here sound like a spoke we could actually pour it out like a paint can that'd be real helpful all right dear Lord we're just gonna load that up stuffs a little drippy but who cares we're on plastic get yourself a little mini roller and this is a lot like painting for pete's sake just to do a cut and roll job on this okay there we go then we're just putting this on the surface oh good and this doesn't look like much but I'll tell you when this primer is dry it is like a rubber surface with grit it is absolutely amazing as long as you don't let this stuff freeze in the winter time a pail of this will last you a long long long time for a lot of projects I love using the mini roller just goes into every nook and cranny without any difficulty and then when I'm done I don't have to wash I just scrub it everything out now remember this is a dry area not a wet area and according to the tile recommendations of the International Brotherhood of guys who like to tiled and we need to get about 80 to 85 percent of heat so if you don't get every square inch of this stuff on here don't worry about it back splashes don't get a lot of abuse you know this stuff dries in about an hour so do your primer clean up walk away and then you can pull out all your tools and get set up for doing your backsplash by the time you're all said and done this should be dry and ready to go I'm loving this product because it makes life quick and simple if I was to take a do a demolition approach here and then a reinstall it would probably take me better part of half a day just to be at the same place as I'm gonna be in here in about 15 minutes okay so here we go just about done we're gonna go grab a coffee while this stuff dries and when we come back we'll show you how to install and this is beautiful this is a subway tile we're gonna use it's like a 2 by 12 I believe so ceramic it's very simple it's gonna have a little bit of depth of color in the greatest game so it'll really nicely tie everything together so excited about this ceramic tile 3 bucks a square foot for backsplash that's the way to go so this is the stone that we picked out this is a ceramic tile as 2 by 10 it's very simple very it's kind of beveled edge which is nice so you get the little bit of texture on the wall with a nice cleaning surface easy to wash and what I've done is I've laid this out just to measure it off okay so whenever you're doing tile you really want to think about the the layout before you get started it's not an afterthought what you do is you want to measure off your gap countertop to Canada 16 and a quarter I've already gone and checked the entire room is within 1/8 of an inch of that so what I really want to do is I want to create an environment where I'm installing this stone at 16 inches okay now you have an option because we're gonna be using these grout spacers you can go with a 16 or 1/32 inch or even a 3/16 okay so you can have the ability manipulate a little bit and generally speaking backsplash tile are all designed to fit that gap of an 18 inch gap between upper and lower cabinets before counters up so as long as your countertop is standard and in our case it's quartz it is its inch and a quarter we're in good shape so this is really easy to work out so now I've measured off 16 inch using a 1/8 inch spacer so I know that I'm gonna go full tile from counter to cabinets all the way along my backsplash and I'm not gonna have any ugly cuts near the top and I'm not gonna have a big gap to fill with nothing but grout later so very important when you're planning know the dimension before you go and buy your stone just in case it's a little odd you want to be able to pick something out it's not going to have slippers or huge gaps left other than that the only thing left to do before prepping is move the hood fan what I did is I took out the screens just backed off the four screws a little bit slid the whole thing forward and tighten it up again there is a gap between the hood fan and the cabinet on both sides and so we want to make sure that we get tile up in and behind that and then we can reinstall this hood fan pushing it back to the wall piece of cake this one actually vents up into the air if your hood fan is vented out the back wall I would suggest leaving it in place and tiling around it just because the the flames that fits into the wall is only I think is about 3/4 of an inch thick so if you start tiling over tile and you have a rear exit fan and run into problems so be careful of that other than that let's just talk about the tools that we're going to need all right so our tools are very simple and and I love this because I'd love to be able to show a very simple combination of tools for doing work at home here's my little tile cutter it's a Brutus cutter it's designed for 12-inch stone great for backsplash I'm gonna need a drill with a number 1 robertson bit all of these electrical switches and plugs need to be backed out then pulled away from the wall just some tape a marker knife float and a trowel and my spacers of course no measuring tape and you were in business so with the basic tools you can be able to do is don't work yourself the only thing that's missing here is our grinder it's sad to set up outside we're gonna cut all of our stone with a grinder outside just so we don't put that dust in our atmosphere here alright so when you're doing a backsplash tile you don't need a whole lot of tool just a small pail you can use your grub mixing blade here alright that'll work fine we're just gonna make a half a policeman and the reason I like mixing it in this is because I can have it sitting on my counter and it's really simple to work from I'm not using a lot of cement in the application so there's no sense having a big pail up there since it's too hard to work with we're using the ultralight cement from Mapai and the reason we're using this instead of an adhesive is because of our primer it'll bond much better to a cement and will an adhesive our glue so here we go tricks for the trade I always put your cement into the water not the other way around and in this product case a little bit of water goes a long way don't need a whole lot of drill for this either just low-speed okay now let's show this for most people they would look at that you go oh that's a good cement for working with tile right it's a little bit stiff bla bla bla but the point is is ultra light mix is different than any other cement you've ever worked with that is missing almost a half gallon of water ultra light should be more of a consistency like whipped cream not like a cement [Music] [Applause] here we go now that is more what I'm looking for and I'll show you this the way you test it is you can just go like this and see if it holds the peak okay that's amazing it's so light it's just it's like fluff it's almost like a marshmallow kind of a soup mix it's crazy but that is them how you properly mix this product as long as it's holding the peak you want it as wet as you can get as long as it holds the peak when you're mixing if it's not holding its peak just put a little more powder in right away but you have to make sure you have this compound the way you want it before you let it sit once your ten minutes of setting time is up you can't touch it again you're gonna just destroy your product all right so we're gonna let this sit here for ten minutes you've read the instructions on the bag almost every cement that you makes you want to have a set-up time so we're gonna leave this and go grab ourselves a copy alright time for a quick recap now our cement has been sitting for ten minutes it's ready to go we have everything primed we've got our counters covered with my plastic this is what I love to do just so I'm not cleaning up a mess later and I'm not getting hairline scratches from any of my tools especially with the quartz you got to be real careful actually because a lot of the housing on your tools it's all made with like an aluminum product and whenever there's a vibration with aluminum and actually well we're off onto the quartz and leave as a merc know there's a cleaning trick for that just take Clorox bleach and a little unsanded grout and you can rub those marks out but why make a mess that you have to clean up later so what we have to do now is just remove all of our electrical and I don't know about you where you're from but around here look these are 632 screws I generally am a crazy man and I do all this with live power but if you want to run off the breakers it's not a bad idea yeah depending on the scenario your screws may not be long to reinstall long enough to reinstall they just look like about an inch and a half so we're gonna work fine so roll we're on I keep these handy because that is going to work just and then of course the last thing you have to do since we're starting in an inside corner and we have six rows of tile which we've already predetermined we have to take three of them and cut them in half because we're doing a half offset subway tile pattern okay so our tile is ten inch but it is an actual 9 and 3/4 so the way you can find out the measurement to the mid part is half a nine is four and a half and a half of three quarters just three eighths so when you put all that together it gives me four and seven eighths boom right there alright so there's my mark now I don't know if you noticed but on my tile cutter I actually have a mark here where my tile cuts so I can put my tile on here put my mark in line and then I'd like to do this just I only have to measure once so I put every tile in that same spot and in case you're just off by a hair keep your left and right side separate just a little scratch and a little pressure and off with other races is that simple no need to have a thousand dollar machine to do that it's really all of them all the sciences in the little cutting wheel and you can buy a replacement wheel for eight bucks so a thirty dollar tile cutter I'll do the Jim by the way a lot of cases these handles they have a screw off end with a spare wheel so if you buy a $30 cutter they already give you a free eight dollar wheel but if you don't know about it you don't know about it and you can see how good the cement is great that's got grab this is why I love to use this because I'm going to be taking this tile straight across the back of the stove area and this stuff will keep my tile from slipping so I don't have to put any temporary bracing in place it's so much easier to just buy a good product then they have to fuss around with a piece of wood and screwing it to the wall and finding the studs and maybe putting a screw through your electrical save yourself in the house we'll spend the extra five bucks and get the right cement all right so you can see the technique is simple you just throw a few blobs on the wall it's not going anywhere because this is really good cement for this situation because you're gonna want to be able to take your time working around all your electrical plugs right without getting yourself electrocuted you can't do that if you got really wet nasty cheap cement there we go and if you're using adhesive you can't do a large area with backsplash because it dries before you even get the tile on that's why this cement is so wonderful because it holds everything right to the wall and gives you about a 15 to 20 minute working time which there's lots of time to press around here with us man and get your stone you cut and installed you don't want to do the entire kitchen at once here you want to just do a certain area and we know that the full tile to the top so I'm gonna have your problem laying the tile all across this area right out of the gate bottle just out now I'm going to show you this technique it's very important when you're putting tile in your kitchen lift it up and put your first layer on your counter oh so important especially if you live in a zone a region where you get probably below freezing temperatures what ends up happening to the house is on the outside walls the the lumber of your house freezes it starts to warp outwards okay as the wood moisture in the wood starts to freeze it expands and so a lot of times you'll see in your kitchen the silicone lines around your kitchen on the outside walls gets cracked and the wall separates from the cabinets in the wintertime so if you put the space here in the wintertime if you use the right kind of elastomeric cocking which can grow 400 percent of what you put on which is four times the size you won't get cracking but if you start with your tile right on the counter you're gonna have a nasty mess coming the winner now if you don't live in the that kind of an area I imagine you might get away with it but most areas have heating and cooling just because of the air conditioning systems that we use if you live in the heat so it's nice to have that kind of control there we go next step I'm gonna put the half tile now I like to I'm doing this stuff just lay it in and then move it all around this keeps the cement and getting stuck and squeezing out the gaps it's a little painstaking like this if you do a lot of tile with this particular product you can just come along and set it in place eyeball it and give it a press generally leave it because this is meant to hold it in place but for most people better just to take the time and use the spacers we're not in a rush because the cement like I said takes a while to dry this is where it gets fun so you have to kind of eyeball you want to get nice and down here and see what your height is there's three things you need to know the left on the right side of the box okay mark those the center of the box and then where the hole is that this screw mounts to most boxes are a rectangle with with an added little bump circle on it half circle the screw mount in it and so the box looks like this and then it has this thing going on right well you don't want to find all that I'd be ridiculous okay so what you want to do is you want to cut this rectangle and then take your grinder and just go zip zip zip zip zip so that you've got defined space there for your your screw hole and that's all there is to it no I'm going to run outside and grind this real quick and then we'll come back in and we should be able to finish to the rest of this ball for the first four or five feet think we're gonna need a little bit of a grind on that piece right there but that'll be about it for the grinder other than that we'll just do a few scratch tools and we'll be done [Music] then double check make sure that you can see the hole and maybe just clean the cement out of the way just so that when it's time to put that fixture back you're not gonna be in there with a tool shoveling around all right and I'm gonna suggest you measure this way especially if you believe the power unlike me don't get your measuring tape out because that's got a metal end and you don't wanna blow it up okay you can touch the plug with the ceramic not conductive so get right up to the edge there so when you're putting these tiles in demonstrate here you want to set it right on the right on the tile right on the tile that's how you want to start and then you want to slide it up and away in into position that's how you'll guarantee you'll never get the cement in the grout lines okay once again tile the tile and then you slide it up and away okay that folds the the line down gives you a much better contact but it also keeps all the lines nice and clean so you're not coming back afterwards and doing a whole lot of cleaning this is the process for tiling over existing tile you know if you're not using if you if there's no existing tile then you don't have to use the cement okay it's completely optional in a kitchen tiling on a bare wall is usually done with an adhesive that would probably be a much more traditional installation the benefit of tiling over tile is really obvious generally speaking if you're gonna remove a backsplash you have to take the tile off the drywall surface and the drywall gets destroyed it's really difficult a lot of cases to remove just the tile so what most guys do is they'll come in here and they'll quote or they'll remove and cut out all the stone and they'll cut out all the drywall replace all the drywall it just creates a whole lot of work it's a boat I would say almost half a day just to remove and reinstall the wall board and then you've got to do the backsplash and then you've got a gross it becomes a whole weekend project doing it this way you can do it in an afternoon and that is renovation on Saturday fishing on Sunday real quick before you come back to the plug just mark the center line and put that on the grout line here and that's how you can continue on with your perfect space number four and 7/8 was our magic number here there we go we just set up a laser line know I've got that perfect right no concern if I'm gonna be good or not and there we go we'll cut this now one of the benefits of tiling in this environment without demo tearing everything apart is you don't wrist and with your counter your cabinets remember these are solid wood cabinets so if we were to start pulling out a hammer and a chisel and you're gonna cause damage this way you guaranteed that everything is stays mint-condition especially if you're doing this as part of the process like we did here because we painted all these cabinets and they're only two weeks old the paint so it doesn't even finish curing it I can't even imagine trying to work around that curing paint until at least 30 days it's just be a nightmare well here we are I think I'm about what 30 minutes in maybe thanks I started it's gonna take another hour and I have to finish this off that's a and I've done a lot of this so you know you might expect to take twice as long but you know we're gonna get so many comments on this from contractors out there who are hatin on this video because it's like how dare you show them how easy it is how dare you show them a system that doesn't force them to remove all the walls and help me jack up the bill but reality is folks if you've got a skinny little tile like this you're not losing any counter space you know what's the quarter of an inch for me you know a couple hundred dollars for the backsplash tile one bag of cement bag I grow I mean it's a $300 transformation of the room okay it is absolutely spectacular and the fact you can do it yourself with a couple of hand tools I say contractors should just get out of the backsplash business okay so we're gonna show you a technique for working around your faucet I don't want to be sitting here with this metal trowel messing around trying to just back butter the tile right in your hand okay this is not all that tricky we don't need a little percent adhesion here all right we're not holding up the house here's just a little something pretty to put on the wall that's easy to clean all right it's just tile the tile set it in and then slide it into place nice and easy and then over here I have a little bit of the cement there I'm just gonna leave that part of the tile untouched okay and then slide it into place come back the spacers in a minute [Music] okay so now that tile is all installed I've screwed the plugs back in just to guarantee that the holes are gonna be good okay it under scrutiny tight cuz you're gonna cause problems with breakage and pulling them out of position I just wanted to guarantee that all the screw holes are good now we're gonna let us set up for a little while before we grow and while we're waiting for that before we go out we want to take care of this exposed edge now because we're tile or tile you don't have to be a little bit creative here so what would have done is I've used my understanding of building materials available at the building store emboss the outside angle this is aluminum but it's a brush metal and it matches up with all the brush metals in the room so what we did we just put a little miter joint on it we're gonna cap it and this is going to be the finished look and that is going to look absolutely stunning we can use the painters cocking up against the wall and the reason I pull this out now is because you want to put this on with your hot glue gun before you grabs okay very important if you go out first you're gonna find that there's always gonna be a film or a residue left on the tile it takes it until you dry overnight then you got to buff it off and that adds a whole lot of process to this or if you put this on now before you grabbed then you're going to be working with a brand new clean surface without any dust that's how I prefer to use it little dab goes a long way hot glue is one of these particular products where you don't want to make the glue sit too long before it's pressed into place so do one piece for the glue get it installed then just measure it off and then let it sit for a second until it cools down there that's done now I'm going to do is I'm going to put the glue right on the same spot I'm building this out a little bit because I'm gluing onto the bevel and that is the problem that I'm running because I'm gluing on to the bevel the top piece wanted to roll back a little bit so then when I glue to glue gonna build out my bevel that way hold that in place until it's dried okay well good now when you're using hot glue if you see any of this glue sitting out proud of the trim just take your knife trim it back it will not grow nice and it'll be ugly trim it off now we are free and clear all the little glue residence rub your hand on the countertop and I'll just bite right off for you we're free clear now when this is all set up food an hour - we're gonna let it dry we'll pull out all our spacers and then we're gonna grow all that in place and we'll add some caulking on the top paint it in that'll be spectacular all right well thanks for joining us on our little how-to tile over tile episode here it's a great little how-to trick to spruce up your home without making a huge mess in an afternoon if you like this kind of content I really ask you to give us a thumbs up and ask questions in the comments below of course we're gonna answer those questions for you if you haven't subscribed to our channel by all means hit the subscribe button we do have new videos coming out every single week for your enjoyment and education and if you want to know how this turned out as far as the whole look when it's finished grouting just check us out on our reality renovation series there will be a link at the end of this video and you can check out that and all of our other major projects that we have to them thanks a lot for joining us we'll see you next time [Music] hey welcome to home renovation DIY we are a YouTube channel that specializes in helping homeowners do renovations at home but get professional results so stay with us for this ride but today we're talking click laminate flooring we're gonna teach you all the tips and tricks and secrets so you can have a quick clean fast professional result that'll last a long time [Music] so before we talk about our product today let me just encourage you real quick if you haven't subscribed to the channel we got a lot of great information on here to help folks out just like you so today is click laminate flooring and the reason we're doing this video because we've done a laminate floor installation is I think this is the most popular DIY product on the market there's a lot of people who can install this with minimal amount of tools experience and understanding so we're gonna go through the benefits of why this is such a good product first of all it's easy to install this product just fits into the grooves the ends drop lock on top of the other piece beside it and as a result as long as you stagger your joints properly you're gonna get a nice tight fit without any corners sticking up and you can do it yourself about half the time has the kind of floor where you gotta hit them hit the boards and lock them together okay so this is a great DIY project you can do in the average bedroom and about 3 or 4 hours if you have a helper with you okay probably take the whole day to install the whole floor cut your doors and saw your trims but it's a one-day you got a brand new room so this is why this project is popular now this particular floor is a 12 millimeter floor so it is a decent quality it comes with the under pad already attached to the back and that takes a whole step out of the project so before we get started on the flooring let's talk preparation okay so preparation for doing a new flooring job of course is you have to get your existing subfloor in the condition where you're ready to put your new flooring down that means it has to be tight you don't want it moving around this is really old flooring this is one and a half inch soft lumber and it's nailed through the tongue and groove into the joists which are on 16 inch on center you can see or the joints are for the flooring that helps to identify where the boards are underneath and the simplest way to do this really is you just go around walking and have somebody absorb if the boards are moving and if they're moving then what you want to do is line up on the joist line and just I have some surface screws down in there and tighten it all up okay once you've gone through and got your floor nice and tight keep your drilling screws handy in case you find something along the way but that's about all you need to do to prep your floor if you have existing flooring on there in the room then I always suggest before you put laminate floor down remove the old flooring because you don't have the ability to inspect your subfloor and that's important if you have holes or you have squeaking points or you have things that are moving around you want to get that dealt with early because once you put your new laminate floor on if it's moving around too much you're gonna break the joints and it's not gonna last very long the other thing you want to do before you get started is make sure you sweep and vacuum your room when you have tongue-and-groove joints like this that are over a hundred year old you want to actually vacuum out each one of these gaps because we're gonna create an area here where as you step on a floating floor there will be some air movement underneath the floor and that'll encourage dirt to blow around so if you can get it all now you won't get crunching later and yes you just remember you laminate floor can go on concrete just make sure you use a vapor barrier as a part of your under pad and you can always talk to your floor supplier how about getting that product okay so let's just talk about laminate product itself real quick it comes in a variety of different thicknesses that are available in a variety of widths I like to have about a four inch board find the bigger ones and a lot of floors there's just too much movement and it can't follow the contour enough without having hollow spots underneath it so that's my own personal preference this particular floor has got like a hand scraped texture some of them have a wood grain texture some of them have no texture at all they're shiny others flat there's a variety of differences some of this product is even good for wet areas so make sure if you're doing it in a bathroom or a laundry area check the product make sure it's made for that area the reason I like laminate instead of vinyl is really it comes down to cost this is the most cost effective flooring on the market if you're looking for a quick solution to brighten up a room or to clean up a space this is the way to go if you have any kind of budget at all this product I actually got a bit of a deal on it was end of inventory there's a dollar sixty nine square foot and has the under pad already attached so I have nothing else that I need on this project Wade installs is just boom drop it together and it's it's smoke together it has a tongue and it has a groove and the boards will continue to install in like fashion you just line it up okay snap it together done that's the installation procedure so you just do that a few hundred times and the room is finished right so what we're gonna do now is we'll show you how to lay it out because I get questions like this a lot which direction should I go do I go in the long wall the short wall do I start at the door or the other side of the room and the answer is simple I prefer to start on the longest wall that you can start on because the the grain of this long board on the long wall aesthetically is pleasing now in this situation the room is a little bit more square so we're gonna go in the same direction as the existing boards are now and that'll help it to follow the contour of the of this old house that's here as well it also gives us the ability to come to the entrance door in a situation where my door is going to be here and these boards will finish up into that space that's a lot easier way to finish at a door if you come this way then your cut has got to be exactly perfect cutting into the jamb and around the baseboard it's quite intricate but if you come at it this way into your door you'll find that you only have one cut on each side of the door makes the installation really quick and simple okay so this is gonna be kind of how to install flooring for beginners first if you don't do this on a regular basis and you haven't got good calluses on your knees get yourself some knee pads okay these are really nice they're soft they don't have any hard cover on them you're not rolling off all the time just make sure you're always sitting up nice and tall the elastic straps that hold this on really tend to pinch if you're sitting down on your feet a lot so try to avoid doing that next remember there's two ends there's one that's got just a square end here that it's designed us to drop on top of the lock and there's the one here that's got the extension on the board and because you want to install a floating floor with room to expand and contract you've got to be careful because if you put this right up against your baseboard you've already got a gap alright so what you want to do is maybe start the flooring on the other end of the room okay and what I'm gonna do is I'm going to show you a technique where we're gonna build the first few rows and then we're going to pull it off the wall where we want it and then we're gonna set a bunch of our wood on top of the floor to keep it from moving around while we build the rest of the room so before we get started we're gonna remember that we want to have these joints moving and changing location on a regular basis when we want to have the gaps the distance between those joints significant enough that there's strength being transferred from one board of the next so that the floor doesn't come apart now in order to do that we want to remember that this area here with the tongue is going to be what we call the finished edge the clean edge and we want the cut to be on inside of the board so I'm going to start off by cutting three boards three different areas and yes this is my Roberts cutter it's like a guillotine anybody can use this or like this like this or like this [Music] just remember when you're cutting with these tools do it outside the dust is horrible and wear your safety glasses I'll cut one board in half wooden board it will third okay and then one board at 2/3 and this gives me the ability to start four rows at a time and that way when I'm done these first four rows then I can fix the spacing and put those other boards on top okay so once you get started there are basically two design options that you have and I'll just lay them out real quick one is it's a constant step can you go from big board to smaller board oh you see junk like that make sure you blow it out you don't wanna have anything in the joint okay smaller board just among the board just smaller board ah blah blah and then the whole process will start all over again alright so your floor is constantly stepping down and that pattern reoccurs over the floor some people like that look personally I think it looks a little bit too intentional and man-made and I'm not a big fan I like to mix it up a little bit I like to the long short long short that's just my preference there's no real right or wrong way now we're going to show you the installation technique so you put it in the groove you slide it along to help make sure that you good contact and then drop it down okay and you'll notice that things aren't gonna sit really snug right away just put some weight on one side and work this pulling it in that direction while you're pushing down and everything gonna sit nice and then he put the next board on and until we get some weight on this floor it's gonna want to move around okay so you can use your leg just do like that and then we'll go short again now we have something we can work with now these first few off cuts oddly enough what I'm gonna do with them is I'm gonna just set them aside until near the end of the job and we'll use these in the last few rows when we get to the other end of the room I just don't like to have them in the way all right so we're at a point now where we're just about ready to get into production we want to finish off our couple rows and we always have our big tongue sitting in front of us okay as you're building and so the way that you're going to measure from here to the wall you should turn the board in the reverse direction set the board up to the wall take a black magic marker and right at the edge of this corner I want you to take off a quarter inch which is basically the extension of the tongue and the bored plus another quarter-inch you want to make that short on purpose here's why that's going to be the gap that second quarter inch gap that's going to be the gap that's there for the floor for a little bit of expansion contraction now generally if your house has conditioned space like air conditioning and heating system there's not a whole lot of expansion and contraction that goes on but if you live in a house where you don't have air conditioning and you get a hot summer then you're gonna see that your floor will have varying degrees of how it fits so remember the hotter and more humid it is the bigger your floor gets so you can make your adjustment based on your condition some people go with a half-inch gap around the outside of the room and use the three-quarter inch cord around just because they're in extreme conditions but traditionally a quarter-inch will do the job okay so here we go now there's my offcut all right I don't need that now but I'm going to use that to start another row over here all right this is how it works so every time you cut a board after you've done your first few and set them aside every board you cut now you put one into one side and you start a row on the other side and that way you don't have anything going in the garbage so again we'll just set that down then we'll grab another board now remember I'm starting tight on the other wall and so when we get the first few rows in most slide it over and close the gap a little bit but for now we just want to get this nice and nice and tight and then we'll pull it across and then drop it down and just giving it a little tap like that will help to manipulate everything in the position here we go again we'll set that against the wall and we'll mark a quarter inch after the base so there's the finished floor there's the end of the rough floor a lot of gap and we'll mark our floor there so here's our little piece so everybody who is wondering is that kind of cutter gonna be able to cut me just a little piece the answer is yes it goes in the same way slide it over and then lay it flat done and if you see the edge of the board has any damage break it off and clean it up anything that's got damage like that is it gonna close properly just push it to the corner remember you're gonna be sweeping as you go there we go no much space is shorter than the board so again I turn it around and I measure same way there's my unfinished foot on the floor finish board and my gap market now most flooring when you're clicking it together they call it a click flooring because the flooring actually makes a click sound when it's sitting right so this is gonna be the secret we're gonna see if we can get the microphone on here to pick this up there it is okay here we go there that way everything fits perfect the secret to doing a job like this is be 100% happy with everything you do before you go to the next one if you're not happy with what you've just done take it apart and try to figure out why you're not happy you might find that something is not tight enough there might be some debris in the gap so it's not closing properly but if you keep moving forward there's no way to go back and fix it later so we basically have our first five rows done and before we go any further what I'm gonna do now so we just take this original cutoff piece here my weight back here and get the tap now I'm damaging this board and it's fine I'm gonna treat it like garbage but what I want to make sure is is that they first few rows everything is nice and tighten one of the things about the click lock system it's just cuz it's in doesn't mean it's in perfect they can open up and have a gap right so that's that looks good you hear that click okay so that's down there's a gap now listen that's a click lock okay and when you're doing the first few rows it's hard to get that click sound because things aren't perfectly straight need your first few rows before even the straighten event so what I suggest before you go ahead give everything a little bit of a love tap make sure everything's clicked in nice and tight then he won't be disappointed and your floor won't open up after the fact real quick we better show you how to move your floor into position because remember we want to have a consistent gap on both sides and the back wall now after you do five rows it can be pretty heavy and you might find that the finish on the laminate is too slippery it's got a good grip this is where tape comes in okay literally hold the tape down and hold the edge of the tape and you can pull that floor right off the wall all right now you can also push it but if you try to pull it it might be a little bit difficult for you so use the tape another thing you can do if you have a board that separates and you need to kick it back into position just put a little bit of tape down and the reason you want is this helps give you a little bit a little something for your shooter to kick on and you can use that to manipulate your floor put that into position okay so we'll check our gap on both ends I'm liking that there perfect so now to keep this from moving around on us you want to add weight each of these boxes way is approximately 60 pounds okay and when you're done packing all of the rest of the flooring for the room on there you're doing two things hey you're getting it out of the way because you're installing a floor in the room and B you're putting enough weight on that floor that you've just put down and put it in the position to keep it from moving around I remember because this is a drop-in lock system we don't need to use a hammer anymore now that we've got it started and straightened out we've got it all tightened up now we're ready to go and build ourselves a floor now it's time for the time-lapse then we'll be able to show you the tips and tricks for dealing with around the doors and fitting your doors after the fact most likely some of these will need to be cut down okay so we're done there basic square footage of the room now we've come into a couple of places where it's nice to talk about finishing details you can see that only took us about 20 minutes maybe 30 you know so if you're new to this and and you're you're just starting in for your first time maybe expect that to take about an hour but I tell you once you get used to the cutting and you get a rhythm going we can get doing that pretty quick if you have a helper it makes it all that much faster so here we are this is what we call a quarter around and if you look at it it looks like one quarter of a piece of pie that's what it's basically called and we use this as our trim molding they close up from floor to baseboard alright and the way we do it is the inside corner is gonna get mitered at a 45 degree angle and over here we're gonna bring it right up toward the door casing mates okay so we're just gonna make a pencil mark here where the door casing is and we're gonna cut this one on 30 degrees and that opens it up a little bit nice like that looks clean looks finished if it's cut square it looks stupid so it's a nice soft angle and it'll work really well and what we use to install it is a brad nailer and we're just using inch and a quarter nails now this setup here with an air air tool with a gun the hose and the compressor you can actually get at the local home depot the husky machine I think when I bought it it came with the hose and a nail gun I can't remember exactly but I think the whole the whole outfit is less than $200 and of course once you have a hose you can get interchangeable tools you can get your stapler for the quarter-inch plywood you can get ratchet so you can do power tools to work on your cars as well so having a compressor pressure itself is a hundred bucks you don't need to spend a fortune on these kinds of tools I'm rough on it I probably go through one a year because I don't treat it well but for me it has something that is that versatile for a hundred dollars a year that is just money in the bank as a homeowner if you actually take care of your tools it'll last you a lifetime okay so you can do all the trimming in your house all your finished carpentry anything you need and you can also put a little blower on the end of this and you can use it as a as an air broom and you can clean things off and clean the dust out of the room clean out your computer and everything else with that too so very handy definitely suggest having that that's one of those tools that every homeowner should have if you're gonna do DIY you don't want to spend your day running around the little finishing nails in the hammer trying to hammer all these trims in like as 1950 that I'll just take you forever and you're gonna waste your whole weekend doing something that could be done in about ten minutes alright so here we go once we got a measurement we just run down to the saw cut it stick it in place throw one of these Brad nails in every 16 inches every two feet come we're done so let's talk transition because this is the one place in in the whole room where homeowners always do it wrong and it screams DIY they don't cut the casing and slide the floor underneath and the reason for that is to probably just don't know what tool to use or how to get that job done properly or maybe you've hired somebody to do some work in your house before and they were lazy and didn't do it properly but here's the secret take your floral put it upside down and you buy one of these now this it's called a dovetail saw okay because of the way you can hold the handle flush on the ground and still cut without rubbing your knuckles off it's also reversible left and right you push this down and you swing it around and then in the locks in position to cut the other way okay so all we do is set it on top of the flooring and the reason we use this piece upside down is just to measure the depth and this is not about strength it's about speed okay so fine too soft means you get to the jam which is this material here you can stop or you can keep going you can cut right through the whole jam it doesn't really matter but the goal is to get to the other side of this casing clean through so you're probably going to be cutting some of your baseboard as well and that's fine there's no damage in it because here by doing this when you get near the end instead of trying to put all your force on the front try to use the push up push against the heel like this kind of motion and then you'll get the back of that cut off and the way you can tell if it's done just take your trusty knife there's probably some caulking and adhesive in there here we go there we go yeah we've got the whole thing it might be it just a little bit left and you can take your knife and cut that a little bit of trim left once you got it all cleaned out now you'll see your flooring will slide underneath your trim and you'll get a perfectly clean line and there's no need for cocking this is absolutely beautiful if you add caulking to this after the fact you actually make it look ugly so it detracts from the situation remember the only reason they use cocking in the first place is because come as somebody cut the hole too big and they had to close the gap so if you use this kind of fine-tooth saw the saw blade itself is so thin it's like microscopic the difference that's gonna be left here for now if you don't have one of these you can go to the store for about 20 bucks and pick one up or if you have a PVC saw same effect it's a fine to saw thin blade this is the cheap little pull saw from Irwin fine two saw same effects all you do is just set the floor there and you can do the same effect okay now to do the same thing all right these are ten bucks they're a little flimsy but if you're a DIY homeowner sometimes it's not what you can buy but what you can use that works so as long as it's a fine-toothed flexible saw same process you'll have a great result too let's talk about our transition know this flooring is only going in this room I'm not carrying it into the rest of the house we're using a different flooring for that so there will be a transition and the rule of thumb is this when you're doing a transition anywhere on your flooring you want that transition to be right in the middle underneath the door so here I'll show you here's the door jamb this represents the outside of the door it represents the inside of the door you want your flooring to go right to the middle where the transition is except since this is a laminate product the transition is gonna look different it's gonna be about a half an inch wide it's gonna be a metal track that goes screw down to the floor okay and then there'll be like a team molding and it'll snap into that metal track and it'll go over top of each of the laminates so in fact we want to go right to the jamb with our flooring okay we don't want to go into this area because the transition itself will bridge the gap from here to here knowing that because transitions traditionally are inch and a half a door is inch and a quarter so as long as your flooring comes up to the edge of that you're gonna be fine all right so in order to do this same thing we turn this around we put our finish floor there okay and we're gonna mark right there we're gonna cut exactly to fill here and in this particular case we're not going to use our guillotine because we want to get a nice clean cut in this situation I'm gonna use the chop saw so here's our quarter of Maryland and here's our mark with our 30-degree so we're gonna set our saw to thirty degrees I'm gonna lock it in place I'm just gonna set them on the blade up there we go that's done and then I'm gonna push this all the way the other side set it to 45 which is my inside corner miter and the idea here is I want the blade to cut from the tip going down so I don't make it any shorter now that piece is ready to install so here's the piece of flooring this is the one that goes into the room and this is where we're gonna finish off it at the door now just note this baked-on finish here that comes from the factory this is a lot stronger than the kind of finish that you get on the site finish floor this is baked on it's very much an enamel you want to cut your board standing up when you can okay if you're gonna use the saw for cutting your wood get it standing up line up your saw and you'll see that you bang into it you're gonna have to move the guard out of the way get the saw starting and go slow there you go now that's the finished cut I can live with perfect and what is the rule what I'm doing flooring I like to do my cord around as it's available probably an OCD issue to be perfectly honest but is this nice to see it cleaned up and finished so what you do is you put your gun in the middle and you push down and then you roll it towards the inside a little bit okay you don't actually want to nail through the flooring into the subfloor and you don't want to ever nail underneath an electrical plug in case the wires coming up from underneath move away and just put one every whoops 16 inches over two feet just to make sure it's nice and tight because this is a click laminate floor you can actually cheat here just a little bit you see here I can set it on top of the groove and then slide it towards it alright now it's not going to want to sit in there perfectly so you have to do is you got to lift this side just a little bit so you can get this one to click in you can really pull and find that it's not gonna happen yeah every once in a while you're gonna want a ham or something keep a little cutoff handy okay and the reason this works great is because the contour of the tongue and groove is exactly the same so you aren't gonna damage the face of the board done locked perfect you sink clean right up to where the transitions gonna be that's how you finish the floor this is easy from this side of the flooring you get your body low get your angle in slide it over put your fingers in there in the groove pull while you wait hold down perfect every time when you're on this side of the the wood is so much easier that's why when you're starting it takes a little time but from this side it's just that easy so you'll see as I was laying the flooring here what it is I just marked where the the floor grade is and to make my life simple I'm going to cut it out after the fact I just find it easier to install all right bring my jigs over to set the blade in that hole and I'm using a 3-inch bit just so you know three-eighths and then we just go [Music] and this is why I like to do it after the factory because I can cut this perfect every time okay so we are about I don't know two thirds way through this project now and that's as far as the flooring is concerned we've got a few more details left I want to discuss and these are really important one of them is the your doors you need to consider do the doors still function after the new floor is in and you want to know that in advance because if you could bring your flooring right up to the door and then it won't open it's really difficult to get it back out again so do a double check make sure you got some space okay this door is not going to clear and so what we're gonna do so I'll show you my system ugly piece of flooring in front of it and if you want to take a good look at this pencil if I hold it like that I actually get an extra almost quarter of an inch a whole bit like that and Mark the door on top of the flooring so that when I cut this door I'm not just cutting it to barely fit I'm cutting it so that it will completely work I'm also gonna double check with the door open because old houses and notorious for having different heights and different variations so just double check and here it actually clears so we know that we're opening from a high spot to a low spot so if I take that door off and I cut it in that position it's gonna function wonderful so we want to get that out of the way right away so the way I remove my hinge pins is I use a a drill bit just clean it from the side once you get a little bit you can just use the claw in the hammer pop it up and you're good to go and just there we go we're gonna get this right out of the room and when we're all finished and then I'm going to set up and I'll cut the door and I'll show you how to get that reinstall so now that we've got all the tools reconfigured we've changed our workstation we're putting our cutting station I've got a moving blanket down here on the floor just because it's a new floor and it's got a nice durable finish doesn't mean you want to take in any chances so I always cover your new floor surface when you're working on it and this gives us a chance to just catch up with our sweeping again remember preparation preparation as we're working we're creating dirt and blowing dust around so that was a great time to just clean your surface one more time before we go to finish off okay so really there's only two steps left to doing a floor that you're gonna need to know and that's one is the closet area they have a unique challenge that associated the closets and that is your closets usually come and build into the room so now we have this wall dividing one section of flooring to the other and because we're coming this way we're gonna have this intersection that you need to think you need to pay attention in advance and come up with a strategy for doing this because as you can see this board goes in here and that's nice and lovely right done we can cut install that last piece and then I can put in that board what about this one you know Mines you're supposed to take a jigsaw and cut the middle out and try to try to hammer it in I can't do that okay so what you want to do is realize that in this situation you're gonna want to install the floor from the middle going in both directions which is a little contrary to what we've been showing and there's a secret to doing this so you plan to go from two different directions because it's a drop lock this board you want to start right here off the gym okay and this board is the one you want to cut and measure first and if you can't measure that board first and get that installed from that side and then use a tapping block to push it underneath the trim we used our song took all that trim out okay we actually took a dovetail saw and cut all the way through the entire casing all the way up through the baseboard all the way around this side okay the reason we can do that is because we're going to be adding meant shoe mold on all the base and so it's not going to cause us any trouble but it will give us the flexibility to push this trim push this floor underneath so what I want to do is I want to measure here first get my marker mark my spot where it'll slide underneath the baseboard and the case just to make sure I'm gonna be okay one of my from the jamb to the flooring it looks like my mark is 2 and 3/4 okay good lots of room okay and then I want to bring this right up till my my finished edge is in line with this Jam because that's what that's going to connect to all right and you can just kind of eyeball this to begin with right there and then we can cut this just past the corner we're gonna use shoe mold or cord around here so it doesn't matter give ourselves a little bit of room and then set my marker and then I'll just pull okay no I have my cut and I'm just gonna run down to my skill saw set up outside and of course it's outside because that desk is really brutal and I'll cut this piece and then we can come we'll install it measure and cut the other piece and I'll show you all the tricks so you can finish this off I'm going to start with the middle of the floor instead of the edge we'll get it up to where we want it get it into our groove properly lock it in place now we want to do is take our hammer take one of your short off cuts line it up underneath and then use the cut off areas a tapping block remember that the contour of the tapping block exactly matches the rest of the laminate so if you leave it flush to the ground and hold this together he'll have a perfect transfer of energy without causing any damage [Applause] now you can see it's underneath the contour here so no cocking necessary anywhere here we're gonna get the quarter round shoe mold so you can cut yourself a little bit generous on the backside here make sure you have lots of room to make this joint again in place perfect because this is the click lock you can actually lift this edge a little bit so you can get this in okay and just give it a Yank snap it in bum done look at that that's beautiful now we can go back with our cut-offs make sure you establish your gap at the wall we go and this is just a matter measuring cut to finish so here we are we're gonna do another quick little time-lapse we're gonna get to the end of the project we're gonna do all the cuts and starts and finishes make sure our are etching which we call it which is our joint lines are staggered and mixed and look nice okay so now we're pretty much down to the last step aside from cutting the door which is coming up next for installing your floors up against the wall obviously the gap this left is not consistent with the width of the board so we can't use our cutting tool we can't use our chop saw to cut this wood so we need to do something else now I'm gonna suggest if you have a table saw that's the best tool for the job you can also use a skill saw you can actually take this board and you can clamp it to something else and then run your skill saw and cut up the piece off you could use a jig saw if you had to but the point is anything that will cut something long and in the straight line will do fine you're not gonna see the cut line because it's going to be covered by that quarter round we showed earlier so don't be too concerned about how perfect this is and give yourself a little bit of space to work with all right the biggest mistake people make here is to make it too tight and then I have to fight with it to get it in they damaged their baseboards and then they're gonna have issues with the expansion and contraction because it's too tight so the first thing you want to do is find your two pieces get the measured and cut to length so they could fit comfortably in the space and now you have your template okay now it's time for measuring tape I'm gonna measure it from wall to here not to here all right and that'll make a smaller space than what you need and it'll leave that quarter inch gap that you want to have after you're done installing your flooring so measure your gap which here to the finish flooring is an inch and 3/4 but to the button to the extension of the groove here it's only inch and a half and then you're gonna take your measuring tape and measure from finish flooring to inch and a half and make it work okay does that make sense so we're actually measuring the smallest part of the gap and cutting from finish flooring so we left with the quarter install the pump and we're all finished here it is just a quarter and a half inch and a quarter so each end it's a different depth so I have inch and a quarter on one end inch and a half on the other take one of your flooring boards and set it up and this is one of the reasons why you want to take that quarter inch off it's nice to have a little bit of mercy here okay connect your dots and that'll be your cutting line for your table saw all right this one it's a little bit simpler it's just inch and half on both sides that one you can just make your mark set your fingers in the groove and pull okay so now we have our two pieces you're gonna go down to the table saw well get that Rick and then we'll come in and drop them in and I'm gonna drop them in I mean literally the same process you're gonna set your tongue in the groove I'm just gonna give it a wiggle edge and set it down and that's all there is to it [Applause] okay so the last step of the flooring before we cut the doors and install them is just to lay down the strip's that we cut of course we cut it short on purpose remember to watch your gap at the end and you just lay it in no this is not completely done it's not set down tight so use your knife get a little forward pressure okay call you're pushing down there we go if you're not sure if it's down enough you're gonna lose just go like this from till like give it a shot and I'll lock it in nice and tighten remember you're gonna have cord around going on here to cover it all up don't be too picky a bit too hard on yourself as long as you can see that gap closing see the gap closing push it down when you push it down with the gap opens push it forward again tell us until you can push on it without the gap opening up click action I heard that click click there you hear that noise you know your goodness gold and then you just take your cord around and cover it all it so one of the benefits of this product is now the room is done and that's the only garbage you're throwing out I love not buying material that goes in the garbage okay so here's a little bonus feature for this video and it's kind of necessary because in a lot of cases and you're adding a 12 millimeter laminate you need to cut your doors down okay so because we mark the surface of the door they're gonna see from the room before you get started you're gonna want to protect the door especially if it's already finished paint the marks caused by the saw okay if this is a bike rack or and you're not going to see the backside of it and you can mark the back side instead I would suggest to do that but in this situation is these kind of circular saws have a steel plate and that's what keeps it from going all wild and wonky on you and that still plays movie dragging across your finished paint and make a mess so cover it up in some tape real quick here's our pencil line you're going to want to set the depth of your saw relatively the same to the door it'll decrease the amount of chipping that it's going to cause and doors are entering the quarter so we'll set this off rinse in half that would be more than enough make sure that they're going to get past your hinge or you'll have to cut from the other side and that's a little trickier here we go now we can set up our mark here just saw a particular that line at zero is where the blade is going to cut and then remove so we can set that right on our pencil line set the blade depth on that almost too perfect all right now can we wear a tape our doors in great shape use that just to rub the door real quick so that it's nice and sanded that's it time to stick it back on all right she generally way to remove a door I'll leave the pins nice and handy and all you do stick the top in all right and then you can work on the bottom there we go perfect sometimes they have a core that's about an inch or so and when you cut that off you can actually peel the the face of the door off the car and reinstall it with glue and a couple hours in this situation that core has been cut because it's already accustomed or has been thrown out now we're cutting it again if there was any core left it'd be so small it would've been worth worrying about but if you have the time and energy and you still have a core yeah by all means feel free to reinstall it if you're worried about spiders or mice whatever getting up in the door making a home there can always use a little low foam expansion window and door foam and you can seal the bottom of your door and then trim it off later [Music] well thank you for joining us in this comprehensive instructional video for how to install laminate flooring especially the click version a lot of the tips and tricks in this are good for vinyl or hardwood and other types of laminate as well but we just want to make sure that if you're gonna be able to start this project at home you've got all the tools you need so that you can finish it like a pro alright so thanks a lot listen if you haven't subscribe to the channel do so check us out on Instagram but most importantly check out the rest of the playlist for A to Z videos that we have we have a lot of instructional videos that will teach you all the secrets of different trades so that you can be a good painter and a good taper and a good try Waller enjoy fixing up your house we'll see you again next time [Music] so what we have to do here of course we're doing plumbing rule number one turn off the water so we have shut up valves under the sink nice and simple now these ones are not quarter turn valves they are style of valve that have gaskets on them and now this house is really ancient and they actually don't even have modern plumbing coming up to the cold water line that's really creative that's another problem so we're gonna go down stairs and turn off the main water supply because these old valves the gaskets are bad they'll end up leaking and last thing we need down here is to start ruining the cabinets for the water leaking everywhere so we're gonna be installing it's actually kind of cool it's a brand new Kohler cast-iron enameled sink it's a double sink and it's thirty inches which is oddly enough a little bit too big for this cabinet so what we're gonna end up having to do is we're gonna have to cut down through the gable side of this cabinet here so that we have enough room to get the sink in it won't be exactly on center but it'll only be off about a quarter inch should be pretty invisible so because we have to do that remove this we're gonna be cutting the countertop best to just get rid of the doors this is a nice quick system a little pin in the back to pop so the way you take these braided faucet lines off really simple it's a 3/8 fitting put your ranch on and you just start loosening it and if there's a little bit of slack once you get it loosened up a bit you can usually do it with your fingers these aren't really difficult to attach and traditionally it's just a little bit of a gasket in there so the reason you need a wrench is when you do it finger tight to install take it and give it another half turn that's usually how you said it okay so this is never fun but you really can't do this blind so it's always good to get right in here just kind of like going for a trip in an MRI machine here we go it's a single faucet and they have just this little threaded piece here to hold that in and on the other side I've got my pullout hose these are just finger tightened of course with time you get a little bit of water getting in the wreath and then the particle board on the countertop swells that's more than finger tightened after a while so that's good I'm glad we got that off without too much of a fight disconnect this hose so that I've come up through the hole we got lucky today because this one's plastic and not metal so I'm all for keeping my life simple so now we're just gonna take it apart in the reverse order when it was installed so we're just gonna pull out the hose and pull that faucet out and this is always gonna be nasty underneath I've never seen this look good crowbar to pull that out that's ridiculous the way things are done around this I was makes you wonder I'm playing it safe I'm gonna wear some gloves for the rest of this plumbing what does he pulled out the faucet I hope we have to do is remove the sink back underneath we go and there's a lot of different clip assembly situations going on this one's really simple it's just a long screw and this clip sits in the saddle here and when you tighten this screw it goes up and so it creates a reverse compression pulls the sink down so there's usually you know six eight maybe ten depending on what the rest of the Installer is [Music] just double-check reach around make sure everything's good we're not connected to the counter anymore but we are connected to the plumbing so we have two options you can undo the collar right here if you're going with the same kind and this is really simple you have two connections here so this brass ring here connects the drain with a tail piece and this plastic one here compresses the tail piece onto the ABS usually with a gasket so we can take our wrench and we can put it on here and we can rip this off it usually comes off pretty simple so if you have the ability to reuse your plumbing later this is a great technique they just separate like that and they just give it a pop I know she goes here's the original rubber gasket this is the plaster steam seen that they send you and you stretch it out around the underside of the sink and then you put it down the compression on those clips is supposed to hold that in place to keep moisture from getting underneath you can see how effective it is it doing that I mean it's not that's why when I'm installing my sinks I like to always make my own gasket out of plumber's putty because you can always use more than you need and let it get compressed out of the gap and then clean that up afterwards so as a contractor I'm always on the lookout for a good deal I have a lot of suppliers that have discontinued product or return product or just they've changed their stock and so they're no longer selling something what are they going to manufacture rebate and they're passing the deal on to us so I have this horrible habit of buying things that I don't need anticipating that someday I'll be able to use it and when I saw this sink I fell in love and whether I was putting this in the clients home or my own home someday down the road I didn't care this is a Kohler cast-iron sink this sucker here is worth a lot of money and I think I picked this for 50 bucks great deal so when I got the phone call to do this job Mike I got the sink for you because I saw the cream-colored tile it's not the greatest but I think this sink is gonna pop and have so much character you'll forget the condition of the rest of this kitchen so the downside of buying things that discontinued or whatever is they don't always have all the parts in this case I don't have the template obviously somebody bought this sink special order this color isn't the standard it's a bone color they went to go install it took up the template realize they had a problem brought the sink back so what I had to do is I got to cut a hole in my existing countertop and into my cabinet that will allow this to be installed without a template so I have to now make my own template we're gonna go 31 and 1/4 inches wide 19 and a half deep so before we get too carried away and start cutting holes now that we have our measurements we want to pull out our faucet and just confirm that this faucet and this sink are going to work together in harmony my hope is is that I can cut the hole and remove the countertop and attach the faucet to the sink only not every single faucet will do that so I just want to double check here real quick make sure that that'll be possible we're gonna do a partial installation just to see if this will tighten on this is where we play the jeopardy music well I try to find a thread that I can't see wearing gloves this might seem monotonous but trust me it's a lot of you here to do it here and discover you have a problem before you have this hole installed now some of you might be thinking oh you're crazy of course it's gonna not gonna work if this was a regular steel sink the steel gauge is so thin you'll see on here on the faucet now once it's installed this nut only leaves so much space but because it's a cast iron and it's a thick sink that allows me to go right on to it so I don't have to drill holls after the fact I just saved a step because I took two seconds of my note if that's going to work awesome so we've taken our measurements of our sink we've reduced that number for the overhang marked it with a pencil now we're just laying some tape right on the countertop so visually I can see it and you can maybe see the pencil line in there son but when I start cutting my jig saw and I gets sawdust for you everywhere I'm really hard pressed nor my line is this line here represents where I'm cutting I'm also going to cut right against the back wall you can see this is a much bigger saying so we're not relying on any of the structural components of this cabinet to hold that sink in from the front or the rear and most likely we're gonna have to take the whole front support right out before we even bother starting it's gonna be the gable support of each of the side cabinets that's gonna be carrying the weight direct load transfer just like structure it'll support itself from the side to side without any difficulty at all so before we can remove this piece of cabinet from the countertop just good to know they installed the counter top to the cabinet with these little worn into quarter inch screws you could buy a blade specific for formica countertops not really necessary here because we have a half inch overlay you'll find that the chipping that happens with this blade is so minuscule it's not even a 32nd of an inch it's irrelevant to our situation I don't use the tape to keep her from chipping that's so old wives tale if you have to rely on tape to keep something from breaking and you're already made this mistake you know what does work if you use tape on plaster before you put a nail in it that works it's the only time tape isn't it good to you max [Music] there we go we just got a trim up a little bit of the particle board in the back corners here grab my fine multi-tool is just like a vibration cutting tool if you don't have one of these bad boys that's fine you can always just use a hammer and chisel you get the same result this is just a lot cooler so now we've got the whole set for our sink the the sink is it's only got a half inch gap on the front so we've got to cut pretty tight here but in the back there's like about a three and a half inch space which is awesome because that's where the faucets gonna go so I just traced out the line for where the sink is gonna go the idea here is we're going to cut through the Gable and then we're going to shim underneath between the sink and the gables that there's a direct load transfer so we're not putting all the weight on the countertop so now we're just gonna roll this in all right perfect so now the next step now that we have our sink in place we're gonna attach our faucet our drain all that kind of stuff this particular sink doesn't need a gasket it is just too heavy and too flat and it doesn't have a cavity for the gasket to sit in so if you want to seal around this the only thing you can use is a little bit of cured clear silicone let's go when you're tightening this up you don't want to go is you know full full tight right away especially if you're working alone if you have someone working with you like a cameraman you could reach over and hold it in position while you tighten it otherwise finger tighten so it still has a little bit of flexibility we want to lift it forward away from the back wall and that'll be nice I'm good there we go just take your pliers what I want to do is to just separate them a little bit there's tabs on that you can turn with but if you have a little bit of torque with a pair of pliers you can really get it tight so you don't ever want those coming loose once you got the rest of your plumbing put together I always want to test to make sure you got it on there tighten up okay yeah those taps are going to move yep so this particular faucet it has a threaded assembly and has a gasket ring inside here so we're just gonna seat this in push down on this part now the gasket assembly is inside nice and strong there we're going to just make sure we're not cross threaded we're going to tighten this collar on here and that'll hold it all in place doesn't matter how tight you turn this it won't affect the ability for the faucet to move so feel free to make sure it's nice and snug one more thing we're since wrote in the country and we have well water here a little hard and you saw the cottage plumbing I'm concerned about debris I'm gonna take my knife here I'm gonna take off this extra bit of screen how many screens just a tap need now that the screens are gone we won't have a problem with the faucet bugging up you won't have as much aeration but I'd rather have a faucet that works so here we are with our sink components we've got our basket strainer I've to take off our nut a nice little gasket here I call it the top hat gasket just so I can differentiate between that and I'll regular over in I am NOT a licensed plumber I've just installed a gazillion of these things okay and then we just go back so they sembly simple you take your ring you put your brass extension in there then you drop in your washer no pace blues otherwise necessary so once we've these in glaze we'll be good yeah this is inch and a half pipe and this is an inch and a half hole in the kitchen your father your strains are always inch and a half hole the exact same piece they make it for bathroom sinks and it's inch and a quarter do not get the wrong one let's drive back to the store you're gonna regret slide that on so it's important once you have everything finger take take the wrench and you really want to tighten the basket nut here it's moving around just put your hand in the top put a little bit of compression resistance there there we go all right just so give us our measurements I just adjust these I'm looking to measure we measure from the inside to where you want the pipe to finish we're looking at a nine and a half inch pipe that's comfortable all right so we're gonna go and cut that first we're gonna cut a one-inch piece for here so we can stick these together and send our water back towards the back corner in this particular application there is no p-trap it's actually in the basement downstairs which is great because it gives you a little extra storage you can keep your garbage and recycling under the sink that way a little old-school love to sand up my ends a little bit one of my Birds rough up my fittings I just like to believe that that might just make things stick a little bit better I happen to be aware that there's two kinds of ABS out there one of the building store that was that today to pick these fittings up doesn't carry the kind that I like to use my plumbing supply stores closed and it's the Saturday so I got stuck using this stuff and I know and if you don't rough it up it just does not hold very well then you need time to grab the glue using the yellow abs glue here I'm going to grab a cloth that stuff can make a mess so respect people's property in their cabinets we're gonna do just glue these in first prep to loosen the collar slide that into position just lay that one into position this is really how simple this is run your glue and then turn these in together tighten the callers need a bit of a slope hand tight and then a quarter that's it so what I'm gonna do here is I'm gonna put a little bit of glue here get this connection piece in then I'm gonna just kind of dry fit my corner I'm gonna measure you can see I have to cut the back plate so 10 inches to here 10 inches to the bottom of this so I need a one-handed tool so I can hold the pipe so something's got it [Applause] perfectly the secret when your plumbing there's your last connection how do you get that pipe in I always think you want to finish somewhere where you can glue this way and then go like that and then shove it in so just pay attention to your process it's your last joints an easy one and then I'll go together really simple like that so this is a braided supply line with a 3/8 female connector has a gasket inside so once again you know we just gotta line it up find the happy place with the thread finger tighten it now you know you've made it to the gasket oh there we go and take your pliers set that on there about a half turn you can over tighten those so this is a lot of tool a lot of torque you can keep going until you can't go anymore the danger of that is if you ever have to take it off and then reattach it again that gas gonna be shot and you'll have to buy a brand new supply line so just another half and if you get a little drip developed you know another little quarter turn that's all you're gonna need try to extend the life of your lines so the last thing we have to do is just silicone the seal around the sink because the nature of the way this is designed there's no room for a gasket underneath so we're gonna just take our new flex 302 love this product it smells a lot like vinegar but the reality is is it worse [Music] [Music] alright well thanks for watching our five tips on how to get a brand new kitchen now listen not everybody's house is the same so if you have specific situations that are a little different than what's shown in this video what I would suggest is go to the search tool on your home page on this channel type in the topic that you're looking for and first see if we have a video that covers your problem if not make sure to put your comments below I'm here to help you out and we're gonna answer your questions for you and help get your job done perfect if you like this kind of content hit the thumbs up to really appreciate the interaction and don't forget to subscribe to the channel we got a lot of great content coming up we're really enjoying being a part of the YouTube community we'll see you in the next video guys [Music]

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 537,819

Rating: 4.76648 out of 5

Keywords: home renovision, kitchen, remodeling kitchen, kitchen renovation, renovision diy projects, diy kitchen remodel, kitchen remodeling, kitchen renovation diy, kitchen remodel diy, kitchen diy renovation, kitchen remodeling diy, kitchen makeover, kitchen remodel, small kitchen remodel, small kitchen design ideas, update cabinets without replacing, kitchen remodel 2019, kitchen makeover on a budget, easy diy kitchen remodel, do it yourself projects, diy farmhouse kitchen remodel

Id: cq7KTz97uyM

Length: 166min 21sec (9981 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 23 2018