12x20 Ultimate Shed Build from Start to Finish | Man cave | She shed | Backyard Office | Tiny Home

[Music] hey there and welcome to diy projects with pete in today's episode we're going to build this luxury shed which in our case is a warming house for a backyard hockey rink but it could also be something like a man cave a she shed an office exercise area or whatever you want it to be if you enjoy the video please go ahead and give it a thumbs up and subscribe to the channel and let's get to it i started by determining the location to build the warming house now i'd originally thought to put it on the long side of the rink but after brainstorming a bit with my older brother andy we decided to place it on the south end as it would be higher above the rink and have the best mountain views it also turned out to be the flattest spot so i found the center of the rink and then began putting stakes in the ground for the approximate size of the building which will be 12 by 20 feet i used a laser transit to check how level the ground is and i found it to be all within about two to three inches from one end to the other so i wouldn't need to do much to level the area besides bring in some gravel here's my original sketch of what i wanted the warming house to look like and some of its must-haves i decided on doing a single pitch lean-to style roof as i really liked that style and then i wanted to incorporate big windows to take in the views a wood stove bar and plenty of seating were a few of the top ideas on my list my buddy dustin let me borrow his dump trailer so i could run out and pick up some gravel at our local gravel pit gravel was eleven dollars per ton if transported yourself and i got about four tons dump trailers are super handy and have hydraulics that lift up the bed to quickly dump whatever you have loaded in it it was able to spread the gravel pretty evenly and it took just a couple minutes to unload i got the bobcat out to make quick work of leveling that gravel now the overall thickness of the gravel was about four inches and closer to six to seven inches on the far side that needed to be raised the reason a gravel bed is being used for this project is because i decided to build a foundation using skids about four years ago i had a 12 by 24 foot shed delivered to our home and it had a skid foundation as well it's held up great over the years i've had it and when i'm ready to build a big shop someday in the backyard i can always move it if i need to last year i built a smaller 10 by 10 foot lean 2 style storage shed on skids and you can see it being moved around fairly easy with the pallet forks which has worked well for my property but definitely build whatever type of foundation is best for your needs hey girls who's ready to build a warming house helene are you ready maddie you ready let's go girls i picked up four by six boards to use for the skid foundation along with two by six boards to create the platform this project was built in october and november of 2021 when lumber prices had temporarily gone down somewhat which helped out a lot with this build the platform was built first using two by six boards and this was very similar to building a deck as i basically built a rectangle and then filled it in with joists that were spaced 16 inches on center the boards were measured and then marked every 16 inches so the joists could be lined up when ready now since the building will be 20 feet in length i had to add a second board cut to four feet in length and connect it to a 16 foot board which is the longest that most home supply stores will carry truss plates or some sort of metal mending bracket would most likely be your best bet for connecting the two boards but i forgot to pick them up so i'm using some scrap 2x6 blocking and then staggering the seams on each side the joists skids and decking will tie everything together and make things super strong as the project progresses long screws were used first so i could get the boards lined up perfectly while working on my own then i came back with the framing nailer to further secure each connection each joist was set in place with the crown side up and then attached and this part of the project goes quickly and it's rewarding to see the platform going together i continued adding the joists using three sometimes four nails at each end now the joists were cut to size using a circular saw and since they're all the same length it goes faster to batch the cuts together so you can simply grab the next joist and attach it in place instead of going back and forth and cutting one at a time to help make this video as efficient as possible we edit out many of the screws and nails being inserted but make sure to use the recommended number of fasteners for each step once the basic platform was built i started cutting the skids to size i put a 30 degree bevel on the end of each 4x6 to make moving the shed easier if i ever needed to and the platform was pretty heavy so i probably should have laid and leveled the skids first and then done the 2x6 platform after the skids were leveled but it wasn't too bad to lift everything and with a few friends or some pallet forks you'll be able to lift and level it just fine i picked up a bunch of corner and angle brackets to secure the joist to the 4x6 skids and to strengthen the four corners i connected the two outside skids first using one and a half inch screws into the rim joists and then longer two and a half inch screws into the skids where the skids came together i made sure to get things as tight as possible and i used heavy duty brackets and a truss plate i also staggered the arrangement of the skids on each side of the platform i decided to do a total of four rows of skids for this project and so i started by sliding them under the joists i then measured to space the skids evenly and before attaching them i needed to square up the overall platform to square up the rectangle i used a tape measure from one corner to the other corner doing both diagonals i then shift the entire platform a little at a time until the diagonals each matched up and everything was square since this building is 20 feet by 12 feet that diagonal should be 23.3 feet or just more than 279 and three quarters inches you can find the diagonal length using the pythagorean theorem which is a squared plus b squared equals c squared next i attach the two remaining center skids these skids will keep the platform square and it's going to help provide a solid skid foundation for your structure i used brackets to secure each joist to the skids below three quarter inch tongue and groove osb was used to cover the platform which forms the floor i started from the corner and did one row at a time with the first two full sheets ending on the center of a joist and then a nailer was used to secure each sheet in place the last board in the first row was then lined up and secured a chalk line was snapped and the excess was then cut using a circular saw i continued on to the remaining rows and they're installed similarly but make sure to stagger the seams so they overlap on different joists in each row the tongue and groove should come together to form a tight seam and it's also a good idea to use construction adhesive under each board to reduce the chance of movement at the panel joist connection and to prevent floor squeaks if you have any overlap that needs to be trimmed go ahead snap a chalk line and trim what you need to once all the flooring was on i snapped lines at each joist so i could go back and nail each sheet down with additional nails and so i was accurate in getting the nail into the joist once those lines are snapped you'll be off to the races and getting those boards secured now that the platform was complete i wanted to do a couple adjustments to get it perfectly level so i jacked up the low end about an inch and shoved additional gravel underneath to level it i'm going to pick up some additional gravel as well just so i have a little more around the perimeter of the structure and to help with drainage i wanted to quick answer a few questions i think you may have first how long did it take to build this i built it within a two-month time frame working mostly on my own not every day but when time allowed and could it have been done faster absolutely especially if you have some help and if the weather cooperates the costs are an estimation based on the current prices in our area as of june 2022 the framing lumber came to about thirty seven hundred dollars and i lumped additional items in a couple categories below the total cost for my build would have come close to about ten thousand dollars with today's prices and includes things like the lighting tongue and groove ceiling speakers and the accent wall and then the large three panel window was donated for this project which is valued at about three thousand dollars so my total would have probably been closer to about thirteen thousand dollars if i had to pay for that i found deals on siding and other windows using facebook marketplace so that helped keep costs down a bit and then i'm going to be putting together a price breakdown at diypet.com forward slash ultimate shed that's going to have some more price information and details about the build window shopping was next on the agenda so i went to the local home supply stores to see what they had i wasn't real excited about my options so i reached out to some local windows stores to see if they had any mis-ordered windows for sale or any old windows and i ended up getting the two smaller windows used in the project as well as three more that i didn't end up using for 75 dollars total which was a great deal and then my buddy dan with lake glass had an extra three panel glass sliding door that he thought would work well for the project so i went out and took a look at it then we laid the windows out to figure out the placement so i'd know how to frame out the walls for this project i'll be doing 2x4 framing the top and bottom plates were cut to size and then stacked together so i could mark out for the studs which will be 16 inches on center locations i measured the window to determine layout for the king and jack studs that will surround it the seven foot wide and 15 inch tall window will be on the back wall of the warming house i continued building the wall and then cut the lvl beams for the header lvl stands for laminated veneer lumber and it's an engineered wood product that's strong and resists warping and shrinking each lvl board is one and three quarters inches thick so once doubled up they're three and a half inches thick or the thickness of a 2x4 wall all the boards were then laid out and then i began fastening them with the framing nailer the header lvl boards were attached to each other and then i connected each end to the king stud on each side inside the king stud i did two jack studs which support the header the board that frames the bottom of the window is the rough sill and this is supported by two jack studs on each side and then studs between the bottom plate and the rough sill the boards are still placed with the original 16 inches on center design so the 4x8 wall sheathing installed later will land at the center of the stud without needing to be cut i measured three and a half inches in from each end and then installed the second top plate the double plate of the two sidewalls will then attach to the top plate of this wall in a later step the wall is now complete and time to stand up now since i'm doing a lot of this project on my own i'm attaching braces to help hold it in place while i lift it with the skid steer and then i'll attach it to the platform once in position i was able to attach the braces to hold the wall up while i use screws and then nails to go through the bottom plate and into the outside joist of the framing below to secure the wall the next part of the project was to build the front wall of the structure now this wall is built similar to the back wall but with framing for a 12 foot wide by 8 foot tall 3 panel sliding glass door i added a scrap 2x4 block to connect the bottom plate at its seam so it would stay together while the wall is being built and at each end of the wall i did california corners which basically make it so you have something to attach the inside paneling or inside wall too a nine and a half inch tall by one and three quarter inch thick lvl board was used to create the header to span over the large window opening two of the boards were nailed together to form the header two king studs and three jack studs were used to frame the opening for the large three panel sliding door top studs were installed above the header and then the double plate was attached make sure to cut the double plate the full width of the top plate as i made a mistake and cut it short so i ended up fixing it later usually i'd keep the bottom plate intact while raising a wall but i had to cut it out so the skid steer could get close enough for the pallet forks to lift it once the wall was standing bracing was added to temporarily support it and to get it plumb for the time being here's a look at the front and back wall constructed after a good day of work and i could start to see that the front bay of windows was really going to make this build the far sidewall was constructed next and it was super easy to build because we decided to go without windows on this side it's going to have a bar area with an accent wall and hockey memorabilia hung up and when framing just make sure to measure correctly so the exterior sheathing lines up properly with the studs by accounting for the three and a half inch wall that butts up perpendicular to the sidewall once up i attach it to the front and rear wall as i mentioned earlier i cut the double top plate on the front wall short so i added some blocking to fix it then i added the double top plate on the side wall which overlaps the rear wall to secure them together i realized i hadn't done california corners for the rear wall so the interior wall can be secured at the corner so i added a 2x4 at each corner then i moved on to the last wall which will have a door and a small window this side took a little more thought to frame since there were a couple openings but it went together pretty quickly and was straightforward the headers above the window and door were made by sandwiching a half inch piece of osb between two 2x6 boards my buddy rob was in the area and he stopped by to say hi and to check out the build he helped out with getting the wall up and in place while he was over we tied the walls together added that second plate and then put a couple studs above the window i came out the next day and started sheeting the walls with 7 16 inch osb the sheeting should be spaced about a half inch down from the double top plate to give spacing for the rafters bird's mouth which you'll see in a later step the first sheet will start to help square up your framing to make sure that those walls are nice and straight and prior to sheeting the framing can actually sway and move a little bit but once that sheeting goes up it's going to be nice and solid a ledger board was attached to the base of the shed to help hold the sheets up while i installed them now you could also just mark a line at the bottom of where the sheeting needs to go and then pound in a couple nails to help hold the boards up while you install them if you don't want to use a ledger board the 4x8 sheets are attached at each stud location and if framed correctly you shouldn't need to cut any of them down for the back with the pandemic i've seen this osb go for as much as 63 dollars per sheet but luckily it was down to about 18 when this project was built lumber prices have certainly fluctuated like crazy over the last few years and so i hope the prices stay toward the lower end to help minimize costs on your project here i'm adding a 2x4 board below the header due to a measuring error for the window framing so this isn't something that would typically need to be done a router makes quick work of cutting out window openings and getting them nice and flush to the framing next i moved on to adding sheathing on the front side of the structure and pre-cut a few of the boards to fit around the window opening to help install the sheathing and to work on higher parts of the shed i got out the scaffolding i actually bought six sections of scaffolding a few years ago when i was re-sheeting and residing my home and renting it would have added up quickly for the time i needed it so it ended up being worth the investment to purchase it as i've ended up using it on multiple sheds and for painting and staining projects i'm going to be doing vertical channel siding to match my house but to significantly save on cost and time you could just use t111 sheet siding which is commonly used for sheds and is how i built my 10 by 10 shed last year which is linked to in the description there were a few more sheets to install and my wife stopped out when she got home from the clinic to see how things were going while i had an extra set of hands we put up the last couple sheets and it was pretty nice to see the walls closed in as it was starting to look and feel like a room the remaining openings for the rear window and the side door were cut out using the panel pilot bit in the router then the bottom plate was cut out at the base of the door and the osb was routed flush with the floor a couple pieces of sheathing were added under the big door opening on the front of the warming house then i went back and added some additional nails to a couple sections that still needed them i did the fasteners about every six inches around the perimeter of the 4x8 sheathing and every 12 inches for the in between studs the next big part of the project was to build the roof and i started by lifting a 2x8 board in place to determine how much to overlap the front and back of the building after playing around with the different looks a little bit i decided the back should hang over only about a foot and then to have a larger area on the front to protect it from rain and so there's plenty of space for the recessed lighting the board was temporarily secured in place so i could make it into a template of how to cut the rest of the rafters and i used some scrap wood as a straight edge to get the angle to cut the rafter at and did it at each end to minimize the mass needed and to make it easy to figure out the bird's mouth i cut a scrap 4x4 board to a half inch thickness placed it on top of the wall and then traced around it at both ends and this worked well for me in creating the template without having to do any calculations i adjusted the saw blade to match the line i made earlier with that straight edge and then cut both ends parallel so the total length of the rafter was about 15 and a half feet the bird's mouth cut was next and a circular saw was used to make the initial cuts and then i used a jigsaw to get the remaining parts of those cuts the bird's mouth notches will give the rafter a flat area to rest on top of those sidewalls the 2x8 rafters are spaced 24 inches on center so i went ahead and measured and marked for their placement i put the first rafter in place to test it and i was happy with the fit so i ended up taking it back down and used it as a template to trace around for the rest of the rafters the template made it real easy to mass produce those rafters and it made quick work of the process i went up and secured the first rafter in place using a couple rafter ties i then used the floor as a work surface to cut the additional rafters and a circular saw actually came in really handy for cutting off the ends since you didn't have to lift the big boards up on the miter saw stand here's a look at the other outer rafter where i ended up using an additional l bracket to strengthen the connection then it was off to the races and i simply put one rafter up at a time secured them in place at each end with a hurricane clip and then used nails or simpson strong tie screws to connect everything i hung the sheathing slightly high near one of the rafters so i quick used a multi-tool to make it so the bird's mouth cut would fit around the wall i continued lining up each rafter and attaching them to the top wall using those hurricane clips and once they were all up it was dinner time so i checked out my work and called it a day the next day i came out and put the sub fascia at the end of the rafters this is a little hard doing on your own so i hooked up a couple clamps to help hold the two by eight boards in place while i got them prepared to attach the sub fascia is installed slightly lower than the end of the rafter and you can use a straight edge or scrap board to help out with its placement a few of the rafters had minor twisting or warping so i used a clamp to get a little leverage to straighten them out the upper walls on each side needed to be completed so i started framing out the triangular area with two by fours and then added short two by fours cut down to size with an angled cut on top the vertical boards were then attached by toenailing the screws in at an angle i then repeated the process on the other side of the building making sure to maintain that 16 inch on center layout the subfisher board was then attached to the rafters on the front side in a similar manner to how the backside was installed and then clamps helped hold the boards in place and made it doable to install the boards without an extra set of hands two additional boards were cut to the same size as the rafters but without the notches i measured out for the overhang i wanted to go with and then attached it the excess fascia board was then cut using a circular saw the same thing was done on the other side of the building to help position the board i temporarily installed joist hangers to hold it in place once it was lifted it was then attached at both ends and the excess board was cut off the next step was to cut sheathing for the upper walls of the shed i measured snapped a chalk line and then cut each board this basically completed the exterior walls of the building blocking was then installed to strengthen the roof and the overhangs my canadian buddy and hockey teammate nick stopped over to help with the blocking and then the roofing the blocking rested on top of the front and back walls to further strengthen everything here's a look at the blocking installed on the back side and then of it going in on the front side now after this it'll be time to sheet the roof we loaded 5 8 inch thick osb sheets onto the pallet forks and then lifted them up to rough height so we were ready to go nick started throwing down the sheets and then we'd line each of them up and nail them in place having two people to do the roof helped make it go quicker and nick is a framer and contractor by trade so we knew quite a few tricks to get the roof completed without a hiccup we started at the back side of the roof and worked our way to the front completing the majority of each row before we'd move on to the next row and a few of the end boards needed to be cut to size and so we made those cuts and then attached those additional sheets and then chalk lines were also snapped at some of the ends that needed trimming and then the excess was cut next we rolled out the ice and water guard to protect the roof under the shingles now this has an adhesive so it sticks to the sheeting and it does a great job protecting everything it was october 10th and the forecast was calling for a winter storm to come in overnight so i was really glad to have had nick's help so we could make quick work of the roof uh to help keep snow out and uh yeah the weather was starting to cool down and we got a lot done so we called it a day picked up our tools and headed in well the meteorologists were right and we got a pretty good amount of wind and snow i definitely wasn't ready for winter yet but our one-year-old pup was loving the snow i'm a big fan of the look of windows with black trim so i cleaned the vinyl window taped off the glass and then did a light sanding to prep it for the paint i did the same thing with the metal door i bought at the hardware store once it was prepped i applied a satin black spray paint designed to adhere to vinyl and i did about four light coats of the paint and i also painted the metal door door jamb and then a smaller metal window using this method my buddy dan with lake glass graciously donated the large three panel glass door for the front of the warming house so his crew came out and delivered it and dan's an awesome guy to work with he's who i bought all of our windows from for our house remodel a few years ago and the window will help tie in the look of the warming house with our home the wind went down so i thought it'd be a good time to put up the tyvek house wrap i started at the base of the building and slowly worked my way around each side and a hammer stapler was used to hold it in place the tyvek was cut to a more manageable roll for the remaining parts that needed to be covered since they were out of smaller rolls at the store and then i wrapped the upper portion of the building and then did that large window opening i continued wrapping the warming house around the remaining sides and cut the window openings once finished and you'll want to pay special attention to how you wrap the windows with tyvek and then how you'll flash them and i'll link a video in the description from the flashing manufacturer in case you want to check out the process in detail i installed the seven foot wide vinyl window making sure it was set nice and level and then screwed it in place and removed the masking from when the window was painted flashing was then applied on each side and then on the top portion of the window next the large front window flashing was applied so it was ready to go when i had some help to install it then i prepped for the smaller window and installed it similar to the other window this is a metal window with an awning style opening the window was leveled then screwed into place and lastly flashed next i moved on to cutting the fascia board and dry fit everything before staining it my brother-in-law alex stopped by to say hi and he helped me lift and install it since it's pretty awkward and hard to do with just one person that evening i was able to recruit some help to lift the 12 foot wide by 8 foot tall 3 panel window with the sliding door in the center into place my buddies james and nick both who play hockey they joined in along with a neighbor and a friend from the volunteer fire department this was a great thing to finally get in as it was one of the last things to do to get that building enclosed the final part to completely enclose the building was the main door so i prepped that opening shimmed the jam and then set the door in place the big front window came with black vinyl on the outside and white on the interior and i really like the look of black trim so i decided to sand and clean the vinyl and then i taped everything off i then did multiple light coats of a matte black spray paint designed to adhere to vinyl and then i removed the masking now there honestly isn't that much information out there about painting vinyl windows but i've had pretty good success with my process and it's bonded well to the vinyl i probably wouldn't do a whole house this way but for a couple windows on a backyard shed i think it's the way to go i've done a few similar projects over the last few years using this method and the paint has held up well i'm not a big fan of using keys so i installed a keypad lock to make things easier and then it was time to start working on some of the basic electrical twelve two romex cable was used for all the wiring and i did plugins about every six feet the fascia board that i had dry fit was then removed and i cut the excess off to get a perfect fit once it's hung back up to protect the 1x10 pine board i used a solid colored stain named carbonized and then did two coats brushed onto both the front and back sides of each board i really like the contrast of this color with the lighter siding and it helps tie the building in with a similar look as our home the next morning we had a beautiful mountain sunrise and i decided it'd be a good day to put up the hockey rink boards and then to work on the roof in the afternoon and if you want to check out this year's hockey rink build it'll be linked to in the description below the metal drip edge was installed on the back portion first and then i used a hammer and roofing nails to attach them and i cut them to size with the tin snips then i did the right and left side of the building working from the bottom up so the pieces overlap each other for drainage purposes i snapped a few chalk lines to reference off in order to help keep the shingles as straight as possible and then used starter shingle rolls along the back and then sides of the building i've done plenty of roofs using a hammer and nails but if you want to speed up the process and make it much easier i'd recommend using a roofing nailer you can find pretty affordable ones on amazon i'll indent each row in about six inches for the first six rows then i'll cut a shingle down in size to fit the area that needs to be filled in i use a scrap shingle as a straight edge and a razor blade to cut the shingles and uh make sure to have plenty of razor blades on hand as they do dull fairly quickly and you can use a scrap shingle as a rasp to sand down rough edges of the newly installed shingles if you need to after six rows i start the pattern over again using a full sheet to start row seven and then doing that six inch offset on the rest this style of shingle has three tabs and you'll use a total of four nails on each piece one nail on each side and then one over each slit that creates that tab i continued until the shingles were all the way to the front of the building the excess was cut off with the front of the building and we'll seal it up a little later with some flashing here's a look at the shingles after being installed i was happy with how they turned out and i thought the onyx black color looked pretty sharp before adding the metal flashing i used some leftover deck joist tape to seal up the edge and then applied flashing sealant to the underside of the flashing and stuck it in place a tin snips was used to make a couple cuts so it would wrap around each front corner and then i nailed it in place sealant was used over the nail heads and along the flashing as added precaution to prevent any potential leaks now it was time to move on to the siding and our home has 1x4 cedar channel siding which gives it a clean and a scandinavian look um i wanted to do something similar with the warming house but after getting a quote on cedar i realized it was going to be way too expensive so i had to look into some other options and i ended up finding someone on facebook marketplace who had a bunch of leftover pine channel siding from their project for only four hundred dollars so i quick loaded up a trailer picked up the wood and basically hoped i could get it to look similar to the cedar once it was stained the pine 1x8 boards mostly came in 16 foot lengths and the long tongue of the board made the channel larger than i wanted it to be so i ripped the boards down in width to remove some of the board's tongue i bought the same stain that was used when i resided my home with cedar a few years ago and this semi-transparent stain is basically a diluted white paint that white washes the wood once the stain was applied to the first couple pine boards i could tell it was going to match the home siding almost perfectly so i continued staining the boards and then i started putting them up one by one since the boards were a little hard to work with on my own i used a 16 gauge nailer with small stainless steel nails to tack the boards in place this would hold them up well enough until i could come back later with a string line to put in rows of ring shanked siding nails normal wood trim around the windows and doors isn't being used instead i'm butting the channel siding right up to the windows and doors but before doing so z bar flashing was painted black and then installed over all the windows and doors vertical siding without trim is somewhat time consuming in my opinion and your cuts need to be very accurate around windows to make everything look nice and neat but if you like that look i do think it's worth it i continued installing shorter boards both underneath and then above the window before going back to the longer boards and i was really starting to like how it looked and i think it's tying in nicely the 1x8 boards had about a five and a half inch face to them and then the channel left in between once pushed together was a half inch and that's after i ripped off part of the tongue just so you can see here's a board that hasn't been stained sitting next to one that has been and the whitewash stain is semi-transparent so you'll still see the grain of the wood each corner was pre-assembled to help get tight joints where the walls came together now the boards used on the front of the warming house were just over 10 feet in height the side boards were tapered from 10 feet down to 8 feet and 8 feet is what all of the rear boards were on the warming house the boards went up pretty quickly once all the prep work was done i did have to be efficient with how the boards were used to make sure i'd have enough though the windows helped in having to use fewer boards and being able to use shorter cutoffs above and below them and i was able to cut the 16 foot long boards in half to get all the eight footers on the back side of the warming house there were a few more boards to stain and it was snowing outside and cold so i turned on a space heater in the warming house cleaned off the boards with a wire brush and then applied some of the oil-based stain onto all four sides of the boards once dry the remaining boards were installed and then it was on to the soffit while the sawhorses were still set up i used them to stain the 1x6 tongue and groove boards that i got for the soffit i'd measure to the center of the rafter and then cut the end of the board at a 30 degree angle where it butt up to the next board it was then nailed into place at each rafter i really like the look of tongue and groove and once you get the hang of it you'll get pretty efficient at it and i had to rip the last board down about a half inch to make it fit and use a screwdriver to help pry in the last tongue and groove boards then i moved on to the sides and this is where it really got fast i basically cut a bunch of the boards down to size slid the tongue and groove together and added some nails i worked my way down each of the sides and saved the back soffit for last the back soffit had to be notched to fit around the building and then i ripped a pretty narrow piece and pried it into place for the last row i mentioned that i tacked the boards up with smaller gauge nails earlier but i came back once the siding was all up ran string lines and then was able to get my nail lines perfectly straight for this row i'm using two small torx head coated screws per board and you can see how they pull the board into the building nice and tight for this row i'm demonstrating using stainless steel ring shank siding nails which have a small head as well and also pull the boards in tight it's much faster than using screws but there are benefits to using each type of fastener in my opinion i'll typically use nails because of how fast it is but the screws are sometimes nice to use around windows or doors in case repairs or maintenance needs to be done to them since you can simply back out the screws to remove the siding and make that fix for exterior lighting by the door i decided on an entryway light that has the ability to automatically turn on once it gets dark and off in the morning i think recessed lighting in the soffits looks classy so i made templates and spaced them out for four lights i traced around them and then cut them out using a jigsaw i temporarily put the lights in place and then i'll come back and wire them later i really wanted to use a wood stove to heat the warming house and i'd save the stove that i removed from the basement when i remodeled it to use as a tv room with a murphy bed for guests so i grabbed that old stove from the garage and rolled it out to its new home when i'm ready to install it i'll use the dura plus class a chimney kit from northern tool company which i'll link to below it contains everything except the stove and chimney pipe and the single wall pipe from the stove to the ceiling is cheap but the class a triple wall piping coming out of the roof is expensive so definitely shop around for that the warming house needed a step at the front door so i went to an old pile of tracks left over from a deck project we completed a couple summers ago we love to entertain friends and family so the deck was well worth it and if you're interested in checking out that build you'll find the link in the description below the temps were consistently in the teens and 20s toward the end of november so i definitely wanted to get the stove working so i had heat while finishing out the inside i determined the placement for the stove by checking out the manufacturer's setback requirements and then figured out where i could put the cathedral box between the rafters i made a wood template to play around with the angle and how far i wanted the cathedral box to come below the slanted ceiling and then transferred the sizing to the cathedral box a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder was then used to cut the box the box was then secured in place using screws and i only have one board shown here but i used blocking on the other two sides as well so it was super secure the next step was to drill a small hole through the roof and to make sure i was directly over the box then i used a jigsaw to cut a round opening and made sure there were at least two inches of clearance between the pipe and any combustible materials the pipe will then screw in place as seen here but before permanently attaching it i vacuumed out the sawdust that got in the box then reinstalled it and added the remaining chimney kit parts i got a little rushed filming as it was six degrees fahrenheit outside and i just wanted to be done but there are lots of good tutorials on youtube to learn the process she's heating up pretty fast 72 degrees in here got the stove roaring and it's a cozy warming house out here i decided to do recessed lighting inside as well with track lighting pointing toward the bar area and accent wall small holes were then drilled to run wiring through the ceiling and i also ran some wiring to the exterior lights which are on a separate switch the wiring was roughed in for six recessed lights three separate switches two eight-inch speakers a plug-in behind the tv and additional plug-ins around the room i'll use staples to secure the wiring and will trim excess wire as the project progresses the next step was to start insulating the walls and i decided to go with r15 rolls made for 2x4 framing i cut them to size with a sharp knife and then stapled each in place i realized i should put an outdoor gfci outlet so i could plug things in easily outside so i did this quick before the area was insulated insulation went in between all the studs and was cut down to fit in the smaller bays up higher i then added a 2x4 over the wall on each end that was flush with the lower portion of the rafters this way i'd be able to secure the ceiling boards at each end when i get to that step i wanted to run high-speed internet out to the building so we could stream music youtube tv hockey games and use the space as an office at times so i looked at ways to beam the internet out from my house and my brother-in-law alex did the same thing out at his shop a few months earlier and he recommended this setup which was under 100 for both antennas and has worked great for his setup and it does for mine as well i made a bracket out of pvc and zip tied the receiving unit to it and secured it to the warming house an ethernet cord then runs inside and hooks up to a router to send out a strong wireless signal inside the warming house and as long as the units are configured correctly and the transmitting unit points at the receiving unit you're good to go the next step was to insulate the ceiling and i used r21 insulation bats for this which are designed for 2x6 walls i installed some rafter vents to help with air circulation once i do the soffit vents but i don't think they were really necessary as the insulation doesn't completely fill up the full cavity anyways i continued putting up the rest of the insulation and could already feel that it was making a huge difference i put a vapor barrier up starting on the back wall first and it was stapled in place and then next up was to install the tongue and groove ceiling 1 by 6 pine tongue and groove was used for the ceiling which is the same board that was used for the soffit i worked one row at a time and where each board butted up to another a 30 degree bevel was used whenever a board had a warp to it i used a tool made for tongue and groove installations called a bow wrench it provided leverage against the rafter to remove the warp and to hold it in place while i'd nail it in the little orange rubber piece at the end normally fits into the groove but it popped out in this shot and you can see how well it still pushes everything together and it also works great for installing warped deck boards i disassembled the recessed lighting and the speakers so they could be painted black a couple coats of matte black spray paint were sprayed on and i thought they ended up looking pretty snazzy looking good i started to get a pretty good idea of how i wanted to line up the lighting so i taped stencils in place and then used a hole saw to quickly and easily cut out each hole for the recessed lighting i'd then pull the wiring through the hole to make sure i didn't lose it up there and then temporarily put the light in the hole now none of the electricity will be hooked up until the actual wiring has been completed next one of the eight inch speaker holes was cut out using a jigsaw the speaker will then fit in place with tabs that rotate out to secure it to the ceiling a round electrical box was then installed for where the track lighting will go i continued cutting each board to size and putting the tongue and groove sealing up making sure to stagger the joints to give it a natural look and the longer boards can be a challenge to install on your own but securing clamps to the rafters to hold the board up will definitely help the last boards had about an inch and a quarter ripped off to fit snugly into place i wanted a real natural look to the ceiling but to still have a little shine to it so i ended up going with a water-based polycrylic sealer from minwax it's easy to apply doesn't smell and it dries quickly i rolled two coats on the ceiling and didn't have to wait long before the second coat so this process went super quick if i were to use a colored stain i would have stained the boards before putting them up so you wouldn't see areas without stain when expansion and contraction happen but for the clear coat you'd never know and this was so fast and easy to do that that's how i did it once everything dried i installed the track lighting kit and then permanently wired each of the recessed lights and the eight inch poke brand surround speakers the trim included with the kit was then put up around the ceiling support box to protect the warming house from hockey pucks i ordered a net to stretch tightly in front i put four eye screws into the front fascia board and then used carabiner clips to attach the net to each eye screw then pulled the net down tightly and staked it in the ground with large yard staples once up i threw a few pucks as hard as i could and determined it was going to do a good job protecting that glass this is the backup net in case the 10-foot netting around the hockey rink doesn't already catch the puck brit came out to help decide if we should go with some old barn wood from the property or some newer channel siding for the accent wall that i'd picked up on facebook marketplace and after going back and forth we decided on the cleaner looking gray channel sighting i took a trip to the hardware store and picked up some half inch plywood to use for the walls of the warming house it was about 21 dollars per sheet in november of 2022 when it was purchased and plywood is super durable it's quick to install and it will hold up well in case the structure's ever moved i put one board up to see how it looked and then decided to finish up with the rest of the vapor barrier before putting more sheets up i worked my way around the front of the warming house and screws were used to secure each sheet tightly next up was the accent wall and i used spacers to hold it up from the floor aways and then attached each board horizontally using 18 gauge nails after getting a couple boards up i realized it would be easier to paint the adjoining walls first so i painted each before putting up the rest of the accent wall holes were cut with a jigsaw to make room for outlets and wiring that needed to come through the tv will be hung in the front corner of the room above the bar so outlets are behind it so you won't see any wires once installed the 120 volt power comes into the box at this location and i have a couple circuits ran from it it's super basic but it does the job perfect for this small space cutting holes for electrical boxes can be somewhat of a pain but this cutout locator tool comes in pretty handy a magnet sticks into the electrical box then you put the sheet on temporarily and match the other magnet up with it then draw around the template and finally cut it out with a jigsaw it's been a pretty good tool and i've used it for quite a few of my remodel projects the plywood was easy to hang and i think it's a great solution for shed walls you don't need to worry about taping and texturing like with drywall and then the walls are all solid for hanging framed photos coat hooks and whatever else you want to put up i used adjustable depth electrical boxes to easily make the box flush with the finished wall and then began filling the plywood joints with a flexible and paintable caulk this way the joints blend in better and a little shifting won't make it crack i used my finger to smooth out the joints and then removed excess with a damp paper towel the walls were then painted with a color named agreeable gray by sherwin-williams and a total of two coats were rolled on the walls there were a couple larger knots and imperfections in some of the plywood that i filled with some spackle and then i also filled quite a few of the screw holes then i lightly sanded the areas before applying a second coat of paint insulating foam was used around the door and all windows to give everything a tight seal and to stop drafts this stuff is super sticky and hard to get off skin so either be careful or wear some gloves once it's done expanding and has dried the excess is cut away using a sharp utility knife i put the switches into place and then put the switch plate on before clear coating the trim that will go around the ceiling the trim was ripped to one and a quarter inch widths from leftover tongue and groove boards it was then attached with 18 gauge nails around the perimeter of the room and it sealed up the area between the ceiling and walls nicely i ordered a 43-inch tv with a pivoting mount to install above the wall in the corner to make sure we wouldn't miss a game especially when the minnesota wild were playing [Music] i really like the look of the gray cedar channel siding we used for the accent wall so i ripped some extra boards down to three and a half inches and then stain them to use for the trim around the windows and doors i painted the floor around the base of the windows to help protect against moisture and i'd probably have painted the whole thing but he got over super quick and i needed to take advantage of having his help so we used some leftover roofing uh underlayment i had in the garage to quickly waterproof the floor before laying down the rubber i picked up four foot by six foot rubber horse stall mats for the floor of the warming house from murdoch's ranch and home supply we started by placing full mats in the back corner and they are heavy and awkward to carry so this is a good two-person job we measured and marked as needed and cut the mats using a jigsaw the rubber mats have been a great floor choice for the warming house because you can walk around with ice skates and not damage anything and the mats do expand and contract somewhat so we installed it with a small gap around the edges so there was room for it to expand when the room heats up the next morning i went out and installed the remaining trim around the doors and windows the large window had to first be trimmed out around the inside since the depth was less than the thickness of the wall and then the final trim went up around the perimeter the baseboard trim was ripped to five and a half inches tall to give it a more bold look and then installed over the rubber mats i had some leftover metal roofing material from redoing the roof on our home so i decided to use it to protect the wall behind the wood stove each piece was cut to size with an angle grinder screwed in place and then i used a piece of cedar to trim the top of the metal for a finished look cement board was placed underneath the stove and painted a dark gray color to look similar to steel but without the price brit came out to help clean once the construction was complete then we brought in a little bar to use for the time being and started getting the warming house ready for use all right thanks so much for tuning in i hope you enjoyed checking out how this warming house was built and i hope it inspires you to go out there and build something maybe a shed warming house man cave an office whatever it might be all right if you enjoyed the video please go ahead and give it a thumbs up and subscribe thanks so much for sticking with us till the end and take good care cheers from montana [Music] [Music] you

Channel: DIY PETE

Views: 2,107,684

Keywords: man cave, she shed, tiny house, backyard office, warming house, ice rink projects, backyard hockey, luxury shed, 12x20 shed, lean to shed, montana shed, shed plans, wood stove in shed

Id: i-Hl10ogJTQ

Length: 53min 39sec (3219 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 12 2022