DIY Shed Roof Framing (How to Build a Shed Roof, Make Birdsmouth Cuts, and Install Plywood Decking)

what is going on guys so in the last video we built the shed walls and in this video we're gonna frame the shed roof put some plywood on and get ready to actually install some asphalt shingles in the next video so without wasting time let's get into it [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] so this video is all about the shed roof but in the last two videos we built a shed-based frame and we framed the shed walls so i'll leave links in the descriptions if you need to check out those videos but to get this party started we're going to establish our rafter length our raptor spacing and then we're going to talk about our bird's mouth cuts for the rafters and for my roof rafters i use 2 by 6 by 16 foot lumber so the first step in framing your shed roof is to determine the overhang at the back and the desired overhang at the front in my case i wanted around three foot overhang at the front and one foot at the back and then i needed 14 foot rafters to accomplish that so i simply cut two foot off of the two by six by 16 foot lumber that i was going to use for my roof rafters the number of roof rafters you'll need will depend on your roof rafter spacing i recommend between 12 and 16 inches i was a little bit more conservative here with about 10 and a half inch spacing in between my rafters but you want to space your raptors that the plywood you install later will have edges that land directly in the center of a roof rafter now i understand that planning out your roof raptor spacing can be a bit time consuming and a pain in the butt so if you want access to the exact spacing i used for this 10 by 10 shed you can check the link in the description after cutting all of the rafters to length i took one of the rafters and put it on top of the shed roof just to get an idea of how it would look i made a few adjustments to get the overhang at the front and back and as you can see here it's not laying flat on the back wall or the front wall to shed this is where something called a bird's mouth cut comes into play a bird's mouth cut is simply a cut you're gonna make on your rafters to account for the angle of the roof or the pitch and this is gonna allow the roof rafter to sit flat on the top plate so for this modern shed we're gonna need to cut a bird's mouth at the front where the rafter rests on the front wall and also at the back where the roof rafter rests on the back wall to mark the locations for the bird's mouth cuts i recommend that you go to the back of the rafter and you mark the overhang over the back so as you can see here i've marked my desired overhang at the back of the shed which is around you know 14 and a half inches you can see that pencil mark and once we have it established on the back when we move to the front of the rafter we can see exactly where that lines up and we can mark that bird's mouth as well after marking the front and the back locations for the bird's mouth cuts the next thing we need to do is calculate the roof pitch so in order to actually cut our bird's mouth for the shed rafters we really need to establish the pitch of the roof so the pitch of a shed roof is determined based on the number of inches the shed roof rises vertically for every 12 inches the roof extends horizontally for example purposes only let's take a look at a shed that extends 12 feet horizontally and 2 feet vertically in this example when you convert that to inches the shed roof rises 24 inches over at 144 inch length in other words this shed roof will rise 2 inches for every 12 inches that it extends horizontally this equates to a 212 roof pitch which is the same roof pitch we're going to use for this shed so starting at the back of the rafter we positioned our carpenter square at the 14 and 5 8 inch mark and we just marked all the way across the rafter so we have that reference line so after marking the back of the bird's mouth cut at 14 and 5 8 inches across the entire length of the rafter you're gonna measure three and a half inches over from that line towards the front of the shed again we're at the back right here then make another mark using the carpenter square all the way across for reference by marking three and a half inches from the initial line we've essentially established where the rafter is gonna rest on the two by four top plate of the back wall as you can see right here i'm showing how the rafter will be positioned on the top plate and what we're going to do now is we're going to cut out the bird's mouth so that it's going to sit flat upon that 2x4 again a 2x4 standard width is 3.5 inches next take the carpenter square and place it so that it's perfectly vertical with the original line that is 14 and 5 8 inches from the back of the rafter using the pivot point which is at the bottom right corner of the square we're going to rotate the square in the direction of where it's going to sit on the top plate in this instance we're rotating it towards the front of the shed we're going to rotate it until we get to the 2 marking on the common rafter scale as i'll show when i zoom in right here see it says pivot right there on that pivot point and then we're gonna go until you see the two which is right there and that's where it says common so as you can see that's our common rafter right there we have that on the two and now we're gonna go ahead and make that mark so get everything lined up and we're gonna go ahead and make a mark just like that we're gonna do now is take a framing square as you see like this and there's our mark and we're gonna take this here and we're gonna move it down parallel until it just intersects with that line there and then we'll mark it okay this part right here is called the heel and this part right here is called the seat at this point we have our marks it's time to cut out the shaded segment right here and here's a quick reminder of what that seat cut and heel cut looks like on the model and here's what it looks like in real life now before we actually cut these out let's move to the front of the roof rafter and let's make the bird's mouth markings for the front as well so as you can see there at that line we're going to go ahead and establish the line all the way across with the carpenter square we're then going to mark three and a half inches across which is where it's going to land on the top plate of the front wall we're going to make that line mark all the way across then we're going to take our carpenter square we're going to position it so the pivot point is at the bottom right there and then we're going to rotate it until it hits the 2 on the common rafter scale 2 represents a 212 roof pitch and then we're going to make that mark now we're going to take our framing square position in place slide it down along the angled marking until it intersects with our second line and then we're going to mark it with a pencil just like before once we have the bird's mouth cuts established on the front and back of the rafter we can finally cut them out now there are a lot of different ways you can actually make these cuts you can use a circular saw like i'm doing right now to cut out the heel cut but you can also use a japanese pull saw you can use a hacksaw you could use a jigsaw i started with a circular saw and it was a little bit tricky because these birds mouth cuts are so small and precise as you can see here i had to pull the guard out of the way to actually be able to make that cut so use your imagination and use whatever tool you're most comfortable with i started with a circular saw and i wasn't able to get all the way across so i had to go back and clean that up later to finish up this bird's mouth cut i used a hacksaw but i'm going to use a jigsaw in a later example after flipping it over you can see how the bird's mouth cut on the back of the rafter will look now that we've completed that one let's move on to the front and complete the bird's mouth cut on the front rafter the exact same way as you can see taking the circular saw and i'm making the heel cut and then i'm doing the cleanup work with a jigsaw this time instead of a handsaw so once we have the bird's mouth cuts on the back of the raptor and the front of the rafter made for the first roof rafter let's go put it in place so after cutting the first bird's mouse on the first rafter position it in place on top of the shed and take a look so taking a look at the bird's mouth cut on the back of the rafter it sits okay it's not perfect but it's pretty close you can see that the heel cut is lined up exactly where it needs to be moving on to the front of the shed we can see that the bird's mouth cut looks pretty good here as well there's a little bit of cleanup work that could be done so if you're not happy with how the bird's mouth cut is lining up on either the front or the back wall you can always cut another rafter and test it in place until you get a fit that you're happy with the idea is you want to get one rafter that's going to be perfect that you can use as a template to mark all the rest of your rafters okay so at this point i cut another one that i'm a little more happy with so there's that here's the one on the other end so it looks pretty good now i'm gonna use this one i'm gonna put it on top of the next one and use it as a template to cut out all the rest so as i just mentioned you're gonna take your template rafter and you're going to put it in place on top of the next rafter i used clamps to make sure that everything was perfectly in line and i did that on both sides one there to secure it make sure it's perfectly even and then i confirm that on the back as you're seeing now once getting the template on top of the next rafter i marked it with a pen there a pencil would also work there i am marking the back and now i'm going to move on and mark the front then once you've made your marks you're going to release the clamps and you'll have the marking that you can then go back and clean up if you need to before cutting it out here's a look of the bird's mouth cut that we just traced and now we'll actually cut them out now you want to mark the very first template board and you want to use the same rafter template to mark all the rest of the rafters you don't want to keep marking one and switching over because the error will compound and you might run into a problem so pick the best rafter first use it as a template and use that same one when marking all the rest of the rafters so repeat this process of marking the bird's mouth cuts using the template board for all the rest of the rafters and cut them out i recommend that every few rafters you place it up on top of the shed and make sure that everything is still looking right you want to be able to make any corrections or tweaks as you need now once you've cut all the birds mounts for all of your rafters you want to mark the rafter spacing on the front wall top plate and the back wall top plate so as you can see here we're on the back wall of the shed and we're running a tape measure along the top plate of the back wall then we're going to go back and we're going to mark each roof rafter location based on the spacing that we mapped out again you want to space your roof rafters around 12 to 60 inches on center and you want to position the rafter so that the edges of the plywood decking that we'll install later is going to land directly in the center of a roof rafter we're repeating the same process for the front wall obviously the spacing on the front wall on the back wall needs to be the same so after marking the roof raptor spacing on the front wall and the back wall it's time to position all 11 of the rafters in place using some ladders and getting the help of my brother we put all 11 of the roof rafters on top of the shed just to get them up there and then we'll go back and space them out appropriately so at this point we're taking the 11 rafters and we're spacing them so that they line up on the marks we made on the front wall top plate as well as the back wall top plate and here's a real quick look at the raptors spaced out on top of the shed so after getting the rafter space according to the plan i tacked them in with a framing nailer just to hold them in place temporarily what we're doing is we're just going to tack in the first couple with a nail gun and before we nail it you can see that the rafter is positioned right on that line that we marked just to hold them in place so we'll do that for this one and then we're going to do that all the way across so we got it lined up and now we'll do this all the way across okay so we got everything tacked initially and then we went back through with our hurricane ties and you can see for the end we had to use this type to get it flush and then we're using hurricane ties which we'll do for all of the rest of the rafters we'll also do it in the back here so as i just explained in the field you're gonna need to use rafter ties for the outermost rafters and then we went back in and we used the more sturdy at least in my opinion hurricane ties for all the rest of the rafters so at this point we have all of our hurricane ties in at the top and we're plugging away at the bottom here we got a couple more to do and then we'll be rocking and rolling once we have all of our rafters in place it's time to actually install the fascia boards on the front and back of the shed so just like you wanted an overhang for the front and back of the shed you likely want an overhang on the sides of the shed as well as you can see here we have a one foot overhang on both sides so we're gonna need a 12 foot two by six for both the front and back fascia board but before we install the fascia boards let's work smarter and not harder so let's install the blocking in between each of the roof rafters but because we cut the bird's mouse we can't use a standard two by six piece of lumber because when you put it in between the rafters you can see that it will stick out just a little bit again because we cut a little bit of the width off with that bird's mouth as a result what you're gonna do is take a circular saw and you're gonna rip off around an eighth of an inch so the piece of blocking you install between each rafter is not going to protrude up further than the actual rafters introducing a complication when we go to install the plywood so after ripping around an eighth of an inch off each piece of blocking we're going to go ahead and cut them to size so they fit in between each rafter again we spaced our rafters that we had 10 and a half inch pieces of blocking in between each but if you want access to all the plans check the link in the description there's always a possibility for a little bit of compounding human error when making measurements so definitely field verify the distance to make sure that you're not cutting all your blocking to a dimension that's marginally off continue to cut all of your blocking and now we can go ahead and install it as you can see here we're taking the piece of blocking and we're inserting it in you can see because we ripped it down it's sitting beneath the rafters which is exactly what you want and you want to make sure that the piece of blocking is flush with the outermost edge of the top plate of the back wall which we're doing first then you're going to take your framing nailer and you can see i'm trying to toenail in the first one i did was not good but you can see that we're getting better as we go so make sure that the pieces of blocking are flush with the outermost edge of the top plate and you're going to go ahead and toenail it in as needed continue to install all the 10 and a half inch pieces of blocking and the purpose of this blocking is just to prevent birds from going on the inside and making nests and also it looks better from the inside so here i am doing the last 10 and a half inch piece between those two rafters and then installing a nine and three quarter inch piece on the very edge now that we've installed all the blocking let's go install the 12 foot pieces of fascia board on the front and back of the shed so first things first we're going to mark 12 foot on our 2x6 lumber and we're going to cut that for both the front fascia board and the back fascia board now what we're going to do is we're going to take both of our fascia boards and we're going to mark one foot from the edge this is going to indicate exactly where that line needs to fall on the outermost roof rafter make this mark on the fascia board on both sides so here's a little trick of the trade i put this together i just put a screw through and i put it on this scrap piece from one of the bird's mouths and then what i'm going to do is go ahead and mount it there so although having a helper is best here's a trick if you need to install these fascia boards on your own you can create some kind of apparatus like you're seeing there and you're going to temporarily screw it to the bottom of your outermost roof rafter then it can basically support the fascia board as you install it here's what i mean by that so even though i have the luxury of a helper installing that temporary support bracket on the outermost roof rafter is still helpful when you're doing the installation of the fascia board so as you can see we're checking right there to make sure that we have the one foot mark positioned on the outermost edge of that fascia board and then i'm taking a drill with some three inch screws and securing the fascia board making sure it's crown up into the outside of the roof rafters as you can see i'm making sure it's flush there and i'm gonna go ahead and install it's a little bit tricky to do this i should have moved the ladder so that i was actually on the fascia board but basically do what you can to install the fascia board to the roof rafters okay so we got the front plate on there as you can see as i scale this sketchy ladder we have this piece holding it in place so that's not going anywhere so that's a nice little tip if you're doing this on your own you can fasten it and let it rest and then we have our line right there we're just going to line that up so it's flush with this rafter so go like that and then we'll go ahead and screw it in place once you have your fascia board positioned correctly you can screw it through the fascia board and into the rafter behind it i use two screws to go into the fascia board and into each roof rafter then i just remove the temporary brace once i secure the fascia board to the outermost roof rafter next it's simply a matter of attaching the fascia board to each roof rafter and i used three inch screws and i used two screws per connection i also used a bar clamp to make sure that the fascia board was perfectly flush with the tops of the roof rafters then you're simply going to screw this in for all of them although you could use a framing nailer here i chose to use screws since i think it's a slightly more secure connection now after doing the front fascia board let's move on and install the 12-foot fascia board on the back of the shed just like the front of the shed we're going to install that temporary support brace on the outermost roof rafter and then we're going to lift the 12 foot fascia board into place we're crowning the board right there to make sure that it's crown up and again pay attention to crown for all of the shed installation you want to make sure that everything is crown up on the roof that goes for all the roof rafters so at this point you're going to want to make sure your one foot offset is positioned on each of the outermost rafters and then we're going to secure the fascia board to each raptor with two three-inch screws per connection the exact same way we did for the front fascia board after installing the fascia boards we're gonna install the outermost roof rafters that are gonna overhang the sides of the shed these are gonna be cut to 14 foot length and you should have done that when you were cutting the initial roof rafters if you jacked up any of your bird's mouth cuts this is where you will install those messed up 14 foot roof rafters so after establishing the crown we're gonna go ahead and move it into place and we're gonna get it flush with the outside of the fascia board we're using bar clamps to hold it in place and then we're simply gonna do two screws through the fascia board into the overhanging roof rafter the exact same way we did for all of the other roof rafters that we uh we did previously so again that's two three inch screws going through the fascia board and into the overhanging roof joist and then we're gonna go ahead to the other side and put two screws in once we had it exactly flush with the outermost fascia board after installing their roof rafter overhang on that side of the shed we moved on to the other side of the shed and repeated the exact same process again that's taking the 14 foot roof rafter putting it in place in between the fascia boards holding it in place temporarily with the bar clamps and then putting two screws through the fascia board into each roof rafter connection so as you can see we use the clamp there to make sure that we have it flush on the side and he's just gonna screw that in right there now the last thing we need to do is install the six pieces of blocking that attach the overhanging roof rafter to the adjacent roof rafter now these pieces of blocking are going to be 10 and a half inches but you want to field verify that distance between those two rafters just to account for any possibility of human error cut all 12 pieces of blocking six per side to size based on the rafter overhang you established now unfortunately i did not capture footage of installing this blocking but it's very similar to how we did the other blocking between the rafters position them in place and use bar clamps to temporarily hold them and use your framing nailer to nail two nails at each connection location so now that we've framed the entire shed roof let's install the plywood roof sheathing which is gonna be the decking that we install the asphalt shingles on in the next video to actually install the plywood roof sheathing i put two or three sheets on top of the roof just so i had a surface to walk on and after putting a couple sheets up by kind of just shoving the plywood in over my head i climbed up on top of the roof and i got the sheets of plywood positioned as shown here this spacing is based on my course guide so check the link in the description if you want access to the spacing and the plywood segments i used to create my plywood roof deck so after getting a few sheets of plywood sheathing on top of the roof so i had a stable walking surface i climbed up on top of the shed but be careful you're up on an elevated surface which if you're not careful could be dangerous so it was very hard to film here but what we're doing is we're arranging the plywood similar to what you're seeing here and based on our roof rafter spacing what that's going to mean is that the edges of the plywood are going to land directly in the center of a roof rafter that way it'll be fully supported once you get the plywood pieces preliminarily in place you're going to use your framing nailer to tack the plywood into place into a few of the roof rafters we're gonna go back and install a bunch of nails later on after installing the first three horizontal full sheets we're gonna cut that final sheet at the bottom and in theory we should cut that to eight foot long by two foot three inch wide but i always like to field verify so what i'm showing here is i have the first three full sheets in place and here is the fourth sheet of plywood that obviously overhangs the back of the shed so after positioning it where it needs to be i went on the underside and i marked the cut line again this should be eight foot long by two foot three inches wide but i always like to field verify so my brother is up there removing the temporary fastener that we use to hold it in place and now i'm pulling it off the shed so i can make the cut along the line with my circular saw as always i'm propping up the piece of plywood using some blocking underneath so i'm not contacting the ground or anything with the saw as i make the cut after cutting the bottom piece to size we lifted the piece of plywood sheathing back on top got it positioned in place at the bottom of the shed there and once we had it exactly where it needed to be we tacked it in place with a couple temporary screws but you could also use nails in your framing nailer after installing all four of the horizontal pieces of plywood if you will we moved on to the vertical pieces so we're lifting the second vertical piece up into place we already installed the first vertical piece in the upper right hand corner of the shed and it's a little bit tricky as always but it's very doable so we're getting it preliminarily positioned right now and we're gonna put a temporary screw in to hold the piece of plywood in place while we field measure at the bottom again in theory this should be a six foot three inch long by four foot wide piece of plywood but you know me i always like to field measure and there i'm using a chalk line to establish a cut line and for this piece of plywood sheathing we got aggressive and we simply adjusted the blade height so that it was the exact same depth as the piece of plywood and we cut it in place on top of the shed at this point we preliminarily installed all of our plywood roof sheathing we just didn't install all the nails so we're gonna go back and install nails every 12 inches on center okay so at this point i put nails into the board to indicate where the rafters are and then i'm gonna go down to the other side and mark a chalk line so that i can nail the wood down so as you just heard in the field i put a temporary nail at the top of the shed that indicates where the roof rafter is and then i took a chalk line to the other end of the shed and where the roof rafter was positioned at the back i snapped the chalk line to hopefully indicate the location of the roof rafter along the entire length of the shed after doing the first one i simply moved the chalk line to the next roof rafter snapped the chalk line and you get the picture i repeated this snap line process for every roof rafter along the entire length of the shed and this is an important step to make sure that all your framing nails that go through the plywood roof sheathing hit a roof rafter all right so at this point you can see i have all the lines now it's time to nail them all in i simply took my framing nailer and every 12 inches on center i attached the plywood roof sheathing to the roof rafters below and this was easy to do since i had the chalk lines that showed exactly where the roof rafters were repeat this process across the entire roof making sure that you secure all the sheets of plywood to the roof rafters every 12 inches on center you may need to angle some of your nails to make sure that it contacts a roof rafter appropriately at this point we've successfully completed our lean-to shed roof framing and the decking installation in the next few videos we're going to be installing the shed siding and also the asphalt shingles on the shed roof so definitely subscribe and hit the notification bell if you don't want to miss when those videos drop drop a like down below if you enjoy this type of content thanks for watching and i'll see you on the next one

Channel: Andrew Thron Improvements

Views: 372,220

Keywords: DIY Shed Roof Framing, Shed Roof Framing, How to build a shed roof, shed roof, lean to shed roof, birdsmouth, birdsmouth cut, build a shed roof, shed plans, how to build a shed, modern shed, lean to shed, set roof rafters, install roof sheathing, modern shed roof, lean to roof framing, shed roof pitch, plywood roof decking, shed, diy shed, diy modern shed, roof pitch, DIY, shed roof installation, shed roof framing, frame a shed roof, DIY shed roof, how to, rafter, seat cut

Id: Y_RChmd6YHA

Length: 24min 41sec (1481 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 01 2022