1000HP 48RE CUMMINS TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY

[Music] coming back to you guys for part two on the transmission assembly and installation uh meyer knocked out the valve body and now we're gonna go ahead and cover some things on the truck so taking you guys underneath we did uh get it all nice and cleaned up we have the adapter plate um as you guys can see here i thought the rear main was leaking but it's not so i guarantee you i'll blow this motor up long before the rear main leaks again so we're just gonna let that go i went ahead and i wire wheel out all the holes because we're gonna use arp bolts with that 12 volt flex plate so we're gonna go ahead and get the flex plate put on but just i mean we cleaned under here with a pressure washer other than that spot like she looks brand new gave her a fresh coat on her coat looking good so anyway we're gonna go ahead and put the flex plate on so first tech tip with the arp hardware throw the arp lube away and get yourself some red loctite all right step one wire brush on the cranks now [Music] all right once you find the right way the wire brush wants to go all right now you're gonna take your dpc 12 volt now there's a lot of kits out there on the internet rtv there's let's see our tv i've seen guys use the diamond encrusted washer which we use on the race truck on these hot street trucks what i do is you want to basically go like this and again this is red loctite and i'll kind of do this all right that's going to make your flange then you take this 2630 paste and some 263 liquid and you just start going to town i recommend a little couple dabs of this under the bolt head and then you hit it with some paste yes this is very inconvenient for when you go to remove it but if you're doing it right you shouldn't have to take it back off [Music] then you set this up on these billet flex plates you will disregard the spacer plate that the factory one has that you guys saw earlier in the video and i will put the first one on finger tight so it holds the alignment i'm going to go ahead and lube up the rest of these again a couple dabs under the head swipe across the shank and then the paste so there is a lot of different ways to do this chrome socket half inch impact just like a lug nut [Music] now it's a three-step torque method step two step three you want to make sure the battery's got some juice in it and that would be torque setting three on this milwaukee [Music] and that is how you install it i think the torque spec's 101 foot-pounds but ever since we started doing the dual stage loctite with the impact mod i have yet to have one of these come off all right so we are here with merc three take three and we are going to be reassembling this 48 re we are starting with the pump yeah we're just gonna go from the front and work our way back that way if you're trying to you know do yours you have a question maybe like oh it's in the middle of trance let's go to the middle of the video hopefully that's right around where we're working on so yeah how about the audience retention dude we're trying we're trying hard so we're gonna put this bushing in um something to note on this guy is there is a seam right here i like to put it towards the center between these two notches that way when you dent it in you're not accidentally denting in on that seam and you end up curling it over and screwing it up so we will use some green loctite that's a retaining compound retaining compound we use i like this on pretty much all the preston bushings or seals or whatever so just to really make sure it stays put smear it on looking for that seam it's right there boom fancy tools made by will terry himself [Music] okay clean up that extra we're gonna flip it around and put a seal on it this is the torque converter seal right yep this is the one that will leak if your flex plate is out of round yeah so if your flex plate is out of round that that snout swabbles all over the place and eats up the seal eats up that bushing it's not good this is a one hit wonder two hit wonder show or use some of our assembly goo because i like to go pretty hard with it you know make sure there's plenty in there and that because someone's inevitably gonna start this thing up dry because we got josh mccormick on the job oh that is a liberal amount oh dude we haven't gotten to the meat and potatoes of this build yet so again we kept them together so we know what way it goes so i'm just going to slide the outer in now that we got that in we can group up this guy keeping up that face not going to go in start up dry okay so with this guy what we'll do is do you want to line up that inner rotor with the snout and that bushing in there so this being the top you want to pull it down and we like to align these two guys here so when you go to install that torque converter it makes you drive a little bit easier and you want plenty of grease in here too because you want to make sure it stays there and doesn't flop around and uh when that grease it kind of creates a suction almost like the oil pump right where it'll suck fluid quicker because there's a good vacuum on it i would have to imagine so but i just like it because i know it's not gonna be dry for the first you know eight eight seconds ten seconds of run time being youtube stake the bushing here so we just pulled it apart again just a punch and you're staking it into the natural recessions there's two of them they're 180 degrees out and then this guy that guy those guys there clamp those you can't put this in wrong the bolts won't allow it but obviously we cleaned up everything ran it through the parts cleaner then we hit it with brake clean spray it off of the air making sure i would say the number one killer of transmissions besides me is dirty assembly i'm gonna say low fluid people don't know how to check their fluid correctly which is also which is also josh so i guess that's a lot in the same way and what are these torque tumor torque these two 18 foot pounds is just like a lug nut right yep so with this we had we take this all apart we have two selective spacers ones for the input shaft and ones for the pump the thicker ones pretty much always the pump i like to measure this and get an idea what we're working with so that way when we measure our clearances we'll know oh we had a 120 on the pump i can set that up or are you if you have like 140 or whatever yeah you don't want to step it up from there so bad juju anyway and just for reference this is a transtech 48re gasket set yeah 48re mer i paid for that damn pump gasket these are locking what are these scarf seals i believe i don't know what they're called but you just have to push it in and work the slack around until it clips in like that locks the tangs in and then a goop goes a long way a lot of goop goes further i've never seen somebody use this much transluce dude i don't put on dry yeah clearly there's bushings in here we want to get two and we have one more oh yeah i don't put on that on yet until after we check and play yeah all right so now the pump is rtb which for those of you who don't hang out with josh meyer that is ready to bog so real quick off camera what we did to this direct clutch was murr got it chucked up on the lathe and hit it with some 500 grit wet sandpaper we were just trying to get rid of i believe he called it the glaze yeah that's like your band was a little warm so when you guys saw us tear this down you saw the lack of fluid the brown color the warped direct clutches when you run a like this with low fluid dirty fluid uh you get a lot of cavitation that cavitation causes all kinds of issues um one of the things when i test drove the truck that i didn't really think too much of because it's been so long since i drove a stock 48 re is it when you put it in drive it kind of had a really slow uh engagement and i was like oh maybe it's just because you know i haven't driven a stock one well it was probably an indicator that the pump was cavitating a little bit during the direct drum yeah start on the direct drum you got to knock a new bushing in it so for this guy there's no orientation that we're really worried about we do have green loctite on there but we do want to a push in from this side i prefer that and b watch how far we push it because there's no stopper or anything but if you push it too far you end up interfering with the um the pump so it screws up your end play [Music] so right there you want to make sure you're at least you know obviously blow flush with that because otherwise you won't have oil going in and out of those grooves but you want to check the back here and you want to check the bushing compared to the little step there and make sure you're even all the way around and make sure you got approximately that amount of gap i would go a little bit further but not a whole lot yeah so i'm going to call that good so that bushings in there we're going to wipe away the extra lock tight so now we get to put some o-rings on it now in the kit they're going to be two o-rings that you can get confused with one is the overdrive piston and the other is the actual direct one as long as you always do the direct piston first you can't screw it up because the overdrive o-ring is a little bit bigger and either i mean it won't like go on now if you try to do the overdrive first then you can stretch the direct seal over it and it will sort of work until you get to this one realize you don't have the seal so that guy goes down is there an orientation there yeah so you can see there's a small lip right you want to think about it the pressure's coming from this side you want that lip to be going towards the pressure so like that's the common common with the all these piston seals they all have lips you want to make sure that the lip goes towards the pressure now as far as the one for the inside they supply two seals in this kit they have a little paper in there explaining but simply put one is a molded and one is the cut the cut one is a little bit wider there if you see the difference we always use the wider one because it's going to seal a little better and we haven't had any issues there you go oh yeah little atf and just run your fingers over it and make sure it's not twisted at all same thing with this guy here you tap on the fingers make sure that it's not twisted at all so it doesn't like that i'm just going to rock it back and forth a little bit yeah feel that solid perfect we're gonna put our springs in yep sales guy dude man knows where it was this just become a warranty no again three springs skip two three springs skip two and another three springs skip two yep and okay there i like to just kind of wobble them around make sure that all the springs are in there we go now we're going to go ahead and stack this out we have six frictions and how many steels six on this clutch pack and you want to soak your clutches and we let them drip dry like that atf make sure it's clean obviously you want one steel so it still goes against the aluminum piston and then you're going to have clutch steel clutch steel and then on 48 we shouldn't need a machine reactor plate it should just work with a factory reaction plate and if you guys have 47 re or 47 rh you guys are only going to have five in this drum in which case you get a machine reaction plate which is this right here that way you can add an extra friction so we're just gonna it seems pretty close and what kind of tolerances are we hoping to hit with this um i refer to the book but i think it's like from let's say from 90 to 135 it's like that enough to just steal my feelings yeah i do math i do not really so this is actually a little loose let's step it up a selective stamp ring yeah which size 80 something 88 and this is the game that you play you can change steels out too right yeah you can put thicker steel there if you wanted but that's a little tight sign so that is um 135 let's try making this 125. and if you fan them out and then cinch them down it's a lot easier and you want to check it all the way around you don't want to just check it on one side because they can't i like to because that aluminum piston can be a little off sometimes so it might be perfect here on the tight side here and you can shoot for a different range of the spec but anyway so that's 125 i'm calling that good okay and that guy is ready to go we will line up the clutches and that helps with you have to put it on the input shaft yeah it makes it a little easier for you not only rotate them to the same location but also get them to the center ish so you can see here all the teeth are lined up nice and straight now for the forward clutch so this guy in the basket and we're using one of our power driven diesel input shafts and for the forward apply piston there's that inner seal here and then there's the outer seal yeah now as far as this guy goes it's really the only for the outer one there's only one real one that looks like anywhere close for the inner seal there's going to be two that looks similar one has the lip on the outside and one has the lip on the inside you want the one to lip on the inside this is for your lower reverse servo but anyway again you want the lip towards the pressure we actually did it right that time crammed in there oil feel it make sure it's good i'll leave up the input shaft as well i'll go and set that down so this green tool is called a seal saver yeah it allows you to walk it down suppress these this on the inside make sure we're not finding that lip of the seal get it started on the snout now you can use this guy push it around the outside perfect now we are using a billet bevel spring yep these are supplied by goren transmissions out in iowa so fill it there and get the aluminum spacer now um for this guy here there are two snap rings that look similar that you can kind of mix up um both are wavy ones slightly wavy and one's extremely wavy you want the extremely wavy one so i'll do get it in press it in like that i'll actually just to make sure it's fully seated i'll just get the screwdriver on the edge of it like that same thing on the other side so now it's firmly seated all the way around the outside okay now we start stacking our clutches this is a 48 so we're going to need 90 three tooth clutches so it goes in oil and it's going to get some 70 000 steels but first fancy reaction plate what do you call that one here we go because that's a solid steel plate obviously you don't need to put a steel down first so it starts with the friction steel over here install it feels a little tight we'll see oh actually it's good what is the um i like to see like 25 to 35 ish what will be out right now so this is a this is a 30 it's a little tight on one side but it's pretty good on the other so i'd call it probably like a 25 maybe a 28. i'd probably call that at like a 28 so that's right there so we're good so now we have all of our clutch packs set up for the main case yep and then he's going to align the clutch teeth again this just aids in insulation when you're trying to slide it down on that planetary so it's gonna go on like that slide some spacers and seals on it it's the white interlocking one um seal as well as the two gold plastic little rings and then it's our selective spacer as well 60 thousandths it's good okay now we are ready to slide the direct drum on so we're kind of like halfway supporting it so that the clutch is kind of engaged we don't want all the way on the clutches otherwise they won't be able to move yeah so you're kind of waiting for it to clunk down nicely if you look at where it's rocking the rocking point is right at the selective spacer and it's on outside on the teeth so between that you know it's seated nicely and that is a complete assembly ready to go after you get your clutch pack assemblies done this is your forward planetary forward ring gear your sun shell your ring rear ring gear and your rear planetary's in there there are these thrust washers right here you can't screw them up they literally have tanks for them to sit on you know put a little assembly lube on them because of where we work and the uh roller rising of the planets that we did here and out of respect to my bosses uh meyer and i have uh got this all put together we're not going to show you guys how to do the rollerized planets again just out of respect for our bosses so here you go and this is the cool part about that rollerized planet i mean they just so smooth and the benefit of this is it really takes the abuse away from the thrusts which i've been known to destroy now for the overdrive output shaft goes in there sits down pretty good snap ring goes in and this guy has a total of three grooves one on one side and two on the other you want to say it with the two on top slide it in like that like that now all your your stuff goes in there so this is the overdrive um these are overdrive directs okay grease up the bushings in there then we gotta get that guy goes in you want to go in like this that's your overdrive spray what is that part i don't know it's the inner sprag piece i don't know what you call it it is possible to put these that sprague upside down as long as you do it in the order i did you can't put it upside down you have to try to put this dragon after that piece okay then we gotta replace this guy this is our sun gear yeah i'm gonna replace the bearing on it even though it looks like someone did it fairly recently [Applause] can that only go one way um i don't know if you can or not but it's supposed to yeah i think it'd be kind of hard to put on the wrong way like this snap ring goes on that bottom groove that can obviously only go in one way yeah you'd be pretty hard for us to get in any other way i'm sure someone could do it though this guy makes you got that bearing on there good then this guy here i like to put a little something on the splines just so it doesn't catch up when you're installing it how much do you just do this it works not the spring okay and to the shop press we go nope you gotta put clutches on it so it's ten overdrive tricks and then nine of steals okay and then you have two reaction plates splined on the insides blind on the outside make sure you use this one and you want to face it like this so step down step down then from there you start sacking here okay and this one step goes up like that and then we're just gonna align all the no you don't steal but i do it just because i'm crazy it doesn't actually help at all then before we start in the shot press the sprag and that planetary the splines on it they both engage on here you want to make sure they're lined up so you want to put that now does that just make it easier um you have to make it sure it's lined up otherwise it will not install um you can use your intermediate shaft to line them up but the nice thing about this being cut off is that it's easier in the press easier the press so if you don't have the tool then you'll you can i mean realistically if you're putting a billet intermediate shaft in you could very very easily make this tool yeah but it's not so it's not hard just just make sure it lines up before you try to throw it in the trans something that we might have missed i just want to fill you guys in on the overdrive bearing here on a stock output shaft they just slip on on a billet they're a little bit tight so what we do is we put them in the oven and then drop them on again nothing crazy how long you leave them in the oven for more 30 minutes at like 350 is so pretty much like pizza pretty much like pizza okay so there you go now we're going to go get this to the shop ring goes towards the output by the way all right ring goes towards the tail end of the output shaft [Music] choo choo things you can't do when you're actually working all right to the press i don't like using the air for this so i'll use i'll go by hand um something that might fight you this drum sometimes tries to go on sideways so what i have since i have the output bearing i got a little banker bearing on top i can spin it while i go and that just really helps prevent it from binding up if it ever gets tighter than like one finger like i can do this with one finger then you know it's something's lining up you have to wiggle it shake it or you end up damaging the sun gear like yours truly just getting the steels fed down with the clutches yep and as you guys remember that snap ring was broke this is the one you always replace mine came out in about four pieces i believe and then there's that inner snap ring make sure you double check that they are fully seated because if you let this spring go bad things can happen realistically as long as one of them seated it won't kill you but it's not good oh by the way guys on november 15th it is mers 24th birthday and i decided to spend it here what what a legend huh to be fair my birthday we were at ats really yeah that was that was my birthday i had no idea yeah i know you didn't nobody did no one remembered your name they do now so that is our overdrive assembly there now we're gonna put it i believe in the case right yeah we gotta get the case ready but see how this surface here and this surface here are basically flat that's good if you have too many clutches or something's wrong it'll either stick out or be recessed in and that is a sign that something's wrong if you guys look right here at this overdrive you guys see this groove here in this bearing that directly correlates to this snap ring that you have to loosen up to get it in and out of the case there gonna replace that seal uh when you guys saw us take this apart they did us the favor of rtv in it which is a cool mod um so i went ahead and wire wheeled this make sure we don't have any issues and the lip goes towards the inside [Music] and we're just wanting that flush right no secret there make sure it's even also guys i'm sure we'll get this in the comments this is oxidation on the aluminum casting uh if this was like somebody who was actually paying for a transfer josh we would we would have wire wheeled it but because it's mine and we're trying to get this done in a weekend because the trucks in our company shop i foregoed some of the cleaning process so we'll just paint right over that but again i just want to let you guys know there's no nothing wrong with repainting it uh with this oxidation but if you are a pain customer just know we do wire wheel a lot of this off corners are getting cut because this is josh so we're saving some money on like sprags and things like that but because at the end of the day if we have an issue with the transmission in this truck we'll literally bring it in the shop pull it fix it um and as some of you guys have seen throughout the years the company has rested very heavily on my r d and uh i'm gonna put the wreck or i guess the r and rec on this input shaft and torque converter again this will be the biggest power truck that we put one in certainly going to be the rowdiest driven so i'm really i'm always excited to try new parts i get very frustrated when they break though right merc yeah this is true okay so to put this guy on there we are just efficiency and speed at this facility [Applause] all right so you're gonna put the case on spread the snap ring just read this next spread make sure it clicks in that's right on the edge so what meyer is checking here is the play on this snap ring if you have too much play what we have to do is install a case saver so he's going to measure it right now and what what will this play cause a lazy overdrive a bind a flare just a sign of wear in the case it just means you have to set up really loose which or so set up really loose which means you have to set up the front really loose and then you start getting problems with seals not lining up so you got about 28 thousands for you i'll send it now we're going to install the overdrive brakes correct now these are the ones that get upgraded we're going to be using the gpz clutches and mark can you explain to people why you get all these fancy clutches but we use a more of a genuine oem style overdrive clutch for the apply um because they work so a lot of the clutches will glaze over and then they're glazed gpz's you glaze them over they'll find new roads and just peel that glaze no why why don't we upgrade the overdrive direct clutches overdrive directs because they never burn up and and why don't they burn up well first of all there's a sprague doing the same thing they're trying to do something we're gonna do for josh remember how we pulled out these two snap rings flat and then a wavy we're gonna toss the wavy and just only put this flat one in that wavy will break and then just throws off your clearances if there's metal everywhere you don't want it so we're using a stepped plate single snap ring step plate now we can because we did that we can now get six clutches in there instead of the five from the factory yeah so i need i always like to count first because then you know you have the right amounts where so if it doesn't stack up right you know you doubled something up another way to be able to know that what you did is right or wrong okay so now you're looking for at this gap here you want that's about ideal now if you want to like play around with it and make sure you're good if you take another steel it should be right there like that snapping without barely go in so that's the right clearance if it's sitting too far down then you probably um for forgot either forgot a steel or you deleted that wavy and on five clutch setup where you don't use a reaction machine reaction plate you can still do you can still delete the wavy then all you do is you take one of your old steels and throw that on top and now that's that's your clearance but because we also did a reaction plate we're doing full six frictions six steels and it's set up right now okay there you go so that's good now i just got to measure it so there's that on the bottom and this is going to help us set up our selectives on the overdrive apply piston this is actually for the intermediate shaft selective oh that's right this tells us which selective to put on the um immediate shaft and this one tells us which one to run on the okay so over here we're running this our spec was like one eight three oh so we want one eight three uh we normally bump it up one so we'll run the 198 to 200 a lot of times it's exactly what came out yep that's what that's what came out perfect so we can reuse that yep actually goes on the piston so that back in there just know it's the right one okay so we're all measured we're good to go and that is a tool from i believe transgo or tcs but that's actually a specialty trans tool you can do this with a piece of flat bar stock you just have to interpolate the chart yep it's kind of hard the overdrive is set up measured we know where we need to go from here i believe we're going to start serving all right so let's talk about some of the other parts we have a billet second gear servo um if you guys don't know there is some differences in different brands we like the thicker shafted secondary servos the thinner ones uh have a tendency to bind on that plate and cause a was that a second year hang um it burns up a second you're banned and because there's they have a little bit more volume to them they don't evacuate as quickly don't release as quickly and cause a 2 3 bind so we got this one here we have our power driven diesel billet low reverse servo um the only reason why we're doing this one is with the full manual valve body i do like the billet servo i've had some bad luck with the regular ones in the past we have our power driven diesel 4-2 second gear apply lever here we have our power driven diesel uh billet strut and our power driven diesel billet anchor as well as another power driven part the billet accumulator with the upgraded four seal count over the oem ii and obviously it is a billet style material so we're going to go ahead the low reverse servo goes here billet accumulator goes here second gear servo goes here even on the billet reverse servo um you do have to reuse this spring so we're going to take that off really quick easiest way is to put in a vice you can destroy that one because it's stupid because we do provide our own again as you can see we did upgrade the seal count on this guy over oem so the problem with that one is that it gets locked in the four um we put two seals on it actually it's three seals but um that keeps it square in the bore so it doesn't bind okay and because we're doing a low reverse we're gonna put the little gold spacer in there um this locks out that spring for the most part and makes it so um it releases faster because now every time you're in first it does that second gear i'm sorry it does the low reverse band so you just wanna make sure you don't burn it up just because it's not releasing fast enough which i have done yeah it's basically the main way you'd burn up a low reverse band but i'm just there throw the seals on it the main purpose here again is just to make sure that they don't get sideways in the bore isn't it the other way so that guy is ready to go grab her the wad accumulator the top ones the uh they can only go on one way because the grooves are deeper the bottom ones you can actually go either way but you want to go o-ring towards the inside okay ready to go and this guy here is just a matter of throwing these guys on and one on here and that's the cover plate correct yeah secure servo cover so some of you guys that get like our 650 kits our 550 kits our pan off kits you'll just get this cover and you'll reuse the factory servo in this case because we are doing the full sends yeah this but there's basically a little spring mechanism in here on the stock servos it works great for a lower uh line pressure once you start getting high line pressure we use this one and locks as it locks it out boom so we're going to lube up our servos just fresh atf on all the ceiling surfaces yep and then lube up the bore so it doesn't fight you too bad yeah i'm the trick of this guy's time talk a minute angle and that dual seal does make it nice and fun for you our springs in there pretty pretty we're doing two watch um watch out that can spring out at you [Applause] guys you can do this with a seat fan yup but i forgot my screwdriver make sure that it's seated all the way yeah then i'll group up the accumulator i'll use grease just because i there's nothing actually holding it in until the valve body goes in so it's just kind of helps make sure it's not gonna fall out let me flip it around and stuff so i've actually seen these going backwards or should i say they came out backwards and the customer shocker while transmission built by someone else blew up big jobs big jobs and then last but certainly not least we have our low reverse logo so same story on this one just going to lube it up a little bit this is the only one where the springs are on the outside yeah so just trying to get that lip seal past the case there's a big lip there you might have to just to sand a little bit smooth it down but this uh lip seals a little stouter than the factory one so it's gonna fight you a little bit more there you go this is a full manual so we put a little stiffer spring in there and so in order to run that spring you actually have to run this guy upside down so upgrades more you know this is my fancy super fanciness i don't think you guys are ready for so it's about to go down i don't remember how i use this thing exactly oh it's like that [Music] something else too real quick guys that we did off camera uh we did rivet the uh we did pins here for this frag and then we did do some rivets on the back again um this is for the higher horsepower stuff and out of respect to where we work we kind of left off the measurements there again a lot of trans stuff is kind of figuring it out once you figure out something that works really well you kind of don't want to give it away to anybody else so that's why we did it this way we got our new reverse lever or i guess it's pin but we got the o-rings from it they're the two brown ones in the kit and we grab our lever this is why we like to do the servos before we put the overdrive on us because you cannot get these pins in after the overdrive housing is on so that way you don't forget but there's that one and then these guys here i'm gonna throw some tight on here 545 which is a thread sealant yep and this is that plug that you can only get to when the converter is out of the way so now we can just tip it up and start putting the overdrive on gasket nothing complicated here and this is your overdrive piston support pretty straightforward there's the gasket matches here and it has this little stick out here and then we'll put the bolts in there what are those two two mirror i think it's like 12 foot pounds right 13 13 foot pounds which i piston again you got to think about where the pressure is coming from way to put the lips there we go there are two holes two pins looking deals dowels i don't even call it they just need to line up these off doesn't matter which one goes where so i just try to get the inner seal on so we make sure we're in the detent or in the holes trying to spin it so we're good this is where we throw our selective on boom and then when we do that we also want to do the bearing on the overdrive still which is this guy right here yep now there's two ways of doing it either a set it on the the case and line it up or glue the ever loving out of it and it'll stay on the output shaft or the output assembly or the overdrive assembly guess which one i pick goop for the dub okay i'm going to grab our gasket again this can only go one way given the cutout orientation and then if you guys look real quick here you will see that this hole goes to the outside of the case this hole goes the outside of the case this hole goes to the inside of the case inside inside inside outside so these four right here insides get a little smack of rt sizzle on the bolts because if you don't put rtv there overdrive housing leaks and i am not happy so we're gonna put a little rtv on just those four bolts i guess there's nothing stopping you from putting them on all of them but really the only four are the ones that go into the case which is again this hole this whole this hole and this hole so obviously the pins are in piston support is in pistons in selectives is in we've got our clutches which is actually kind of a big deal because todd may have gone performance three speed from yours truly at one point or another um yeah and then you just throw it back on so just a quick rtv job for these and a little trick on these bolts that are hard to get to a snap-on seven stints universal chrome gets the job done 25 that's what i do anyway overdrive's on now we're gonna flip it up and start stacking let me call this person all right so meyer had to go take a call we're going to go ahead and stack this out get your band in you got to put in your low reverse sprag which can only go one way like so and then you can put your reverse drum in again guys just a salesman like so nothing goes underneath there so you do that and then this is the cool part about sprague it'll rotate freely one way and it won't go the other way that was that low roller spray we put in and look who's back birthday boy so i will let meyer take over from here so again we just got our not all you're not in good hands so again we got our low reverse band installed our sprag installed and our drum along with that bushing there and the snap ring next we're going to do the intermediate shaft it looks like yeah and our planetary gear set look at those dabs dude those aren't that good yeah and this is one of your many selectives yeah this one's actually really thick selective it might be too thick damn boy that's a yellow she thick this is also the one i struggle the most with getting on and off the shaft so what i do i'll just put it back on to show you guys well no i saw what you did so did they okay well you just pry it get it hold it with your thumb i just struggle with it okay that's all i'm saying just building the confidence of our audience you can do it thanks that's a big ass boy now we're gonna go ahead and drop this in and if you look hold on pull this back up these tangs here correspond with the low reverse drum tanks [Music] now i know how you're single god dang that was rough all right then we already got our snap ring in just um right and again this is why we use that alignment tool when we press the overdrive hub in if not you will not be able to get the intermediate all the way in and as you can see we are fully seated because we have the tangs in there i will say sometimes even when you align it correctly it's still a little tight putting that intermediate in um so if you just grab a rubber hammer and beat it down and just obviously i mean if it's not lined up you're not getting it but if it's just a little off you can just tap it in and just watch out like tap tap in i thought we were about to get some tick tock all right and then if you guys see here this is the 92 teeth uh ring gear here this is one of the things that's different about a 48 which is why your clutches cost a little a wee bit more there's more teeth here so we're gonna put a spacer here and then we're gonna drop the input shaft on with the two clutch packs you have to line up the clutch teeth here and then lastly the outer portion has to of the direct drum has to line up with these tangs in the sun show up we're going to glue our mickey mouse in there in the input shaft and this is actually something i do as well not just mer it actually makes sense i just this one actually i feel bad for my trans filter it's going to have to figure it out this stuff is awesome now this only goes in one way it'll only go in one way so the way i look at it it seems to may work the best is you find out which two are closest together so if you look at this these two are closest together you look at this guy these two are closest together he goes in like that boom done and always make sure you have this i put together a and will was scratching his head trying to figure out why my end play was like terrible it's because i didn't have that in there yeah so what you can do is you're gonna always set this about half down here about half the weight on the input shaft and half the weight you're gonna hold and just rock it back before trying to get those clutches lined up and as you can see these uh i'm gonna call these castles here aren't fully what sure i have no idea aren't fully uh there one thing that we do see on higher horsepower transmissions is these will actually start to bevel out and they'll get loose uh we have that problem on my 05 so i'm actually in the off season gonna they make a billet one of these i'm gonna just get one ordered i found suncoast makes one and since i've roasted this sun shell and we've had to drill holes in it to beat shafts out i think it's i think it's time for billet so anyway now we need to put our uh pump on and we're gonna use a used gasket to check our end play here and again it's kind of hard to screw this up you have obviously the feed passages here the square ones and then you want to make sure your bolt holes are good and then this is why we didn't put our fresh o-ring on the pump yet because we have to check the end plate those holes get lined up with those ones pump it will only go in one way so you're good there make sure we have our selection we've got o-rings and stuff gaskets i just put [Music] actually torquing makes like less than a thousands of difference okay you heard it here first folks now a new gasket makes more difference than that though magnetic base style indicator trying to hit that flat spot on the input shaft okay then you grab your universal gravity grabbies oh we're gonna do it so you're prying up on the sun shell going up no no no no we got 70. yeah gonna break to that honestly so we got 70. so that's obviously too much but we know how much we need to crank it down you want to check the rear and then to check the rear you just rock it on the output shaft the only pain in the butt is if you have a 47 rh then you just put a little spacer inside there in there just to go up in there and reach on there so basically 30 in the rear 70 up front so we're going for what 40. appreciate 40 in the front so we need to tighten it up 30 so it means we need to um if we step it up a one size mickey mouse and then step it up one on the pump pushing on the i don't going thicker on the pump pushing on the input shaft bushing yeah okay and just so you guys are clear when you're setting end play you want less in the rear than you do on the front because if for some reason let's say you get in the rear end collision the axle wrap whatever the case may be right delicious yeah you gotta say those trucks so i i i kid but i actually got rear ended about seven years ago and i lost my transmission because my drive shaft rammed into the back of the truck and basically if you don't have enough input to cover the rear it'll just thrust everything forward and it actually cost me the trans and it broke the thrust on the crankshaft because it ran there was lit too little and play here so this bottomed out into this this bottomed out into the converter converter bottomed out into the crankshaft and that car accident not only did i get a new bed new bumper new axle new drive shafts new transfer case new transmission and a new engine this was 2009 and i had a 2007 truck we were like a thousand bucks away from a total loss and then like everything else i sold it all right so let's get those let's get those selectives swapped out so that means we gotta pull the so here's the mickey mouse again that's why you glue it i glue it so much that it actually stays it did not stay it's right here no i'm saying sticks to that oh so we're gonna go up one size so this is a 70 i think the thickest is an 85 so swap it out yeah so go ahead i guess i i keep that and then so that's going to give us 15 thousandths this one here is a 60. and we're going to go to a 80. all right now one last check now that it's all together we're going to do an air check so all these line of holes here we're going to first do this one you can hear it's holding air it's leaking out the um seals a little bit because they haven't seen in yet we're kind of filling with grease so it's kind of normal that one sounds normal too you're using the pd input shelf which has some extra oiling mods so that's gonna be normal then we're checking the second gear band that's good and you can go by the factory spec which i honestly don't remember right now but i'll just go by hand we got that good so i'm gonna tighten up the adjuster quick so we're going to push air here and then just air gun in the back this way the adjuster doesn't spin the lock nut does there now we're going to check the lower bursts and we need to put the plugs in round two so that's good i'm actually i like that adjustment right there and then okay then one more um so this is for the overdrive we plug this hole here we feed air in so you can see where it's getting pressure's getting locked in this port and if that's what you want so that's good perfect so now this is done we're going to put a dummy pan on here and close up some of the other odds and ends and paint it [Music] all right something not shown we're gonna go ahead and put a modified power driven diesel third gen transmission line kit i say modified we're basically just gonna skip the heat exchanger uh my plan is to delete that when we swap turbos so we can get to that coolant passage there so we're just going to bypass the transmission fluid side of it um and go straight to the front cooler with the plan of very soon putting a auxiliary like derail or bd or somebody's transmission cooler in there so just don't want to leave you guys hanging on that but we are going to put that kit in so finish her up we got the speed sensor in there uh we do have to put the parking rod in it's not very tricky at all but there is a little cavity in the case so you're gonna feed it in there and you can once you do it a couple times you get a hang for it but you kind of feel like something's a little springy in there um but it's not going in that's because we probably have to spin the output shaft there so that just pops in you can feel this resistance and you can pull it all the way out if you want but you're checking it now what a good way to check is to see where this pin is in relation to the hole it should stop right on this side of the hole and if you pull it to about even with the hole that's park apple jack can't move now it can uh that's a good check because for instance this is a 48 trans but apparently someone swapped in a 47 output tail housing because um first of all that's the parking rod it had in it but and second of all that's the parking crawl that's in the case so um that's good just good to check make sure that works before you throw it all back together and now the bell body fell by is ready to go but do a couple checks first so first of all we got our parking rod in there it's in there good you got all second gear band stuff in there we got the low reverse band set we air test this generally i'll air test it paint it and before throw the valve body in again i'll air test it again won't put you through that but we already did that um we got the accumulator it's incorrectly we've got the accumulator spring we're gonna check all these surfaces make sure there's no dings or anything they are they all look good so now we can throw the valve body in another thing when we ship valve bodies we put this plug upside down reason we do that is because there's it's super common they'll break so we put it upside down screw it back to the valve body so when you grab your valve body from us from power driven you know check this guy you'll probably have to take that screw out put it right side up and throw it back in so we're gonna do this we're gonna pull this guy all the way up like that we're gonna get this started in here there now we made a little tool called hockey stick to hold this circlip but you can do it with a screwdriver and if you need a little pliers so you're just trying to get that started in there there you go parking rods in this is also where you want to be careful of the 48 neutral safety switch um generally if it's your first time whatever i would take the switch out pop the valve body in and then screw it back in again um if you finesse it you can get it in without any problems but there's a good chance that you'll end up pushing on that lever and actually screwing it up and then you won't be probably won't indicate park correctly but there you go now we're just gonna put the screws in of our screws we got the long ones over here all right we got our medium ones let's go here here here we actually are missing one still there it is you got two short ones here and there they're gonna upgrade them down make sure they all are started nice push that valve body towards the driver's side a little bit and i'll suck it down because it's the best possibility of indicating part correctly so now we're going to torque these to 105 inch pounds valve bodies in so now we're gonna put the neutral safety switch in there i'll just tap this in a little bit make sure it's fully seated so now we're gonna grab a multimeter and actually make sure this thing works 13 and a half 32 600 and that's not the second pin from either side okay so we're gonna start off putting the fill tray on this uh ppe filter block has an o-ring on the bottom pretty sweet mod honestly would recommend so we're going to just line up the hole to block tighten those screws down okay now we're gonna use a filter we like these the older style filters um a little better and are take a little longer before they're clogged so it's kind of all around good mod for performance trans there you go fill tray installed somebody will get the pan out of the parts washer and let her eat so now these guys i torque to uh 12 foot pounds i use a roman numerals or something because it looks a little different than your normal 12 but it's it's 12. hands on i probably didn't forget anything now let's we're done we can check to see if we uh anything obvious we forgot yeah we're good all right last but not least you take your new converter and you're gonna put fluid in it try not to make a mess usually hold about a quart half court somewhere in there so we were actually able to get a full court see how much of that actually leaks out and then you look inside here you can see the tangs of the pump one there one down there my was nice enough to put it at almost 12 and six and that corresponds with these here so again you're gonna have to spline it to the input shaft you have to spline it to the pump stator then you have to finish spline it to the pump uh drive gears and basically once you get it in you shouldn't be able to get your hand back there unless you got i guess maybe really small hands done i was actually only wrong again so what i mean is you shouldn't be able to stick your hand behind the converter and it should stick out i'd say about a half inch three quarters of an inch that's actually like five eighths i think so we're both from yeah and then i always try to set myself up for success and try to put a converter bolt somewhere close to the vicinity so like that's not so [Music] perfect and there you go now we're going to install it uh the only real big problems you're gonna run into converter bolts we actually use a paste and liquid loctite and we use the impact method you should be straight up buggy doggies seems like that's gonna be working really well for us lately um and then we'll usually try to let them sit for at least overnight so we'll put this transmission in and then i won't fire it up probably for tomorrow all right guys so a couple things when installing a transmission number one you want to check your flex plate for run out on these 12-volt billet ones or the six bolts they're usually pretty damn straight the stamped steel sfi ones sometimes we'll have a little run out check that if you don't it will hollow out that seal that we talked about earlier and then you want to make sure your dowels are good because this is actually what aligns the again if these are gone missing gold it will lead to some torque converter alignment issues and a couple other issues that will cause some damage and you want to make sure your adapter plate is still tight on the block and then we're going to go ahead and get this jacked into place you do not want to suck the transmission in with the bell housing bolts you need to get it aligned pushed on the dowels and then install the bolts we got our t case on drive shafts in on the third gens especially in fourth gens you want to check this double carton right here this can cause some vibration and then you definitely want to check your rear drive shaft uh what we did was we took the old ones out of the 05 that only had a few thousand miles on them put them in here we drained and filled the transfer case ran our transmission lines as you can see here the nice blue power driven line got our full manual shifter cable hooked up there got our harness ran you can see it kind of go back for the shifter for lock up overdrive again it's pretty easy you only need to send 12 volts and two grounds and meyer is putting in our pressure gauge we always add a line pressure gauge to the middle port the accumulator port that allows us to see what the transmission is doing catches any errors very quickly okay guys last step of the process we're topping off the trans i know it sounds dumb but we're going to go over it because there's a couple you know traps for young players um we put 12 quarts in the pan already this is a deep pan now we're gonna have josh start it up and that's gonna have to fill the converter and help fill the uh the cooler circuit he's gonna run for 12 seconds shut it off that way we can pump more in if we just put it all in right now it would probably overfill out of the breather and make a mess so we don't want that okay josh okay now we can add more uh this is the d-pan fresh cooler uh we're probably gonna put in 17 and then check it so guys this is what i'm talking about as far as a false reading if you look at it it looks like it's right at the bottom of the okay line right if you look right below that hole is actually a perfectly dry spot it's really hard to see on the camera but the fact of the matter is there's a dry spot there so you know it's not there and whenever that gives you a kind of a weird reading like that it generally means that it is cavitating a little bit and so it's just kind of sloshing the fluid so what you need to do is i will shut it off again like we just did okay and josh i'm going to apologize for your engine brakes i'm going to have to make a little bit of a mess here one-handed no no okay if we look we're not even we're barely on the stick or when i say barely we're like okay without the truck running it should be right around here so we know we need to add at least like a quart and a half okay so we just put a quart and a half in it you can see it's right there without the truck even running so that's gonna put us pretty close i think we're within a half a quart now so we're gonna start it up and check it in neutral i don't know if you can see this guys but that's a nice hard line dry wet super straight line no dry spots below it i'd say that is a good fluid phil so it has been a long weekend yeah it definitely has um i don't want to make it sound like you guys are stupid and don't know how to check your own oil but um yeah i mean we've all been there like it happens more often than you think where we gotta have someone having an issue with our trans turns out it just wasn't full enough they got a false reading and they thought it was good and hopefully you can catch it before um it does any damage to anything but yeah having a right amount of fluid in there actually quite a big difference but yeah it was it was an interesting weekend for sure so i'll just show you guys we didn't really go into depth on this video about this but here is our gated shifter with a mount custom built by yours truly so we're wrapping this up um again this wasn't really meant as an install uninstall series this was more of how to put together your 47 rh re or 48 re transmission hopefully you guys learned something i just want to give a special thank you to the birthday boy working on his birthday to get this done again couldn't have gotten it done without them so i appreciate you guys like subscribe comment let us know what you think about the video if there's any tech questions you have drop them in the comments i'll do my best to get them answered uh until next time stay tuned guys

Channel: Horsetorques Diesel

Views: 23,294

Rating: 4.9358287 out of 5

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Id: e3VoodIeQMk

Length: 79min 36sec (4776 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 30 2020