How to Rebuild a Allison 1000 Transmission | Duramax

[Music] what is going on everybody very exciting day today the moment that we've all been waiting for this is probably the most informative probably the best YouTube video when it comes to building an allison 1000 in this particular case it's a six-speed that we removed from a 2006 Chevrolet Duramax and it's a 2500 HD 4-wheel drive now you guys may have watched that previous video where Mark here at Kodiak truck in North Prairie Wisconsin actually repaired my transmission I did have a believe it was a pump seal leak so he wouldn't head and repair that while he was in it I went ahead and documented it while he was going further into the transmission and noticing that there was some other issues so that video obviously got a lot of views and we figured this would be a great opportunity to document you know this entire bill so mark we do appreciate you showing us that now mark is gonna go ahead and just take the lead on this entire video I'm just gonna record today guys so he's gonna go he's the subject matter expert here so what exactly are we doing today so basically you're gonna see that this is the finished product you're gonna watch the video and see we did a this are 750 horse build we do full teardown on this we've got most everything documented on here this is a alto g3 build really good clutches LML Pistons we got our Transco junior shift kit we've added a few more springs in the valve body we're gonna show you stuff that we do we also got we're gonna run the Garen triple disc X converter in here in my opinion the best converter out there and yeah you guys are gonna be able to see we did full seals everything in here and it's just it's gonna be a really nice unit for the customer I'm really excited in a few as a viewers watching this at home and you are actually doing a step-by-step on watching this video on how to actually repair your transmission rebuild your transmission I highly encourage that you watch this video from start to finish you cannot miss a single step on this one it's very crucial so other than that guys I do appreciate your time stay tuned and enjoy all right we're gonna get our filter off should have a magnet underneath there as long as nobody ever threw it away there it is got minimal metal debris on nothing to get excited about I'm gonna pull all the bolts out of the bell housing we're gonna take the cooler fittings out the bell housing basically stripped down so we can get it into the wash tank [Music] alright we got all our bolts loose these bolts look the same they're not all your interior bolts everything on the interior are all gonna be bolts I got old rings on we're gonna pull those old rings off throw them away put new o-rings on all the outer bolts and we're gonna hand these off to Jesse he's gonna start washing stuff and prepping right away for us all the inner bolts run with those all the inner bolts are the same except the two at the very bottom you'll see there's a copper washer on these this is LLY and newer style this is a six-speed so those two are different now the rest of these that are in here they're they're all the same bolts all the way through we're gonna get these bolts cleaned we're gonna make sure there is no oxidation and we'll stansson here we've got plenty of salt on the road in winter the see all this oxidation these things will be 100% cleaned up ready to go back in because all this stuff is gonna be torqued then we're gonna have different bolts here in this corner there I keep these four together all the time so we don't mix them up we got these three here they're all the same bolt they're actually the same as all the all the interior bolts without the wall copper washers on and again we'll clean these all up you'll see when we put this all back together everything will be clean and nice particularly I'm just now gonna take a dead blow and just catch underneath here and some of these things are real soft tap the bell housing it's gonna be loose it's gonna come up off the gasket will pull this bell housing off we're gonna get Jesse to throw this in the hot tank all right we're gonna pull the bell housing off we're gonna get in the hot tank or and hand that to Jesse he's gonna get that going for us we're gonna run that through a cycle get all the grease and debris off this at this point this is our stator assembly here I'm gonna pull the gasket off this sometimes they stick and there's chunks left on there this one the gasket came off pretty much intact but we're gonna obviously when we get this knocked down and we got a long ways to go on these things we're gonna check for every little piece of debris that can be on here we do not get carried away with a wizzy will grinding away or doing anything stupid like that take this theater assembly off we're just gonna put it in the tray for now we're gonna get to this later we're gonna keep breaking the trans stone this has got our pump and everything in here we've got our gasket on the backside we'll take care of cleaning and prepping that all later now we're down to our c1 c2 clutch drum we're gonna go ahead and lift this whole assembly out got our bearing with it which we're going to set on the side we're gonna replace all bearings in this transmission bushings everything now we're down and dirty if you look in here we're right down to our c3 clutches so I'm going to remove that snap ring get that out of there and we're going to pull that whole clutch pack out of there and part of the planetaries get underneath there with a little hook tool I tend to put a flat blade down in here and just leave it sit and as you keep walking around here working your way around with the pick tool this thing will just come right out of here just keep working your way around popping that snap ring off from underneath in here they go I set that up and take our top pressure plate out I do is I'm gonna reach down I'm gonna remove basically almost everything right out of here we're gonna take it out and set it up on the bench and we'll separate everything there here's our clutch pack we can look at our clutches we can see they caught some heat you can see some hot spots in the metals and the steels and everything else so there's this trans and been beat on a little bit pull all our gears off of here pull all this down everything's gonna get washed and inspected this is our thrust which you'll see when we put this back together with the clutches that we're using we're gonna have a spacer in here also which will explain more so we're just gonna keep stacking parts keep yanking stuff apart and we're gonna have Jessi washing and prepping and everything for us got a return spring assembly and now we can get to our apply piston right here [Music] four ply Pistons out sit down with the clutches is basically it at this point we're gonna rotate this now and take the whole backside apart these things can get plenty messy that's why we got all our drip trays everywhere and when we put this trance back together we'll get to stand wipe down the floor cleaned everything everything's got to be perfectly clean to go back together all right we're gonna take our big spanner nut off from next that pulls our output shaft in place always make sure that the trans is still in park because you're gonna need to bust that loose the interesting thing is I've tailor plenty of these Allison's down and then nuts as loose is what you just seen and technically the torque on there is almost a hundred foot-pounds so all right there's our spanner nut that's now we're basically just gonna blow all the bolts out that go around the whole rear extension housing we got all our bolts out they're all the same length they're all the same bolt so Jesse's gonna clean them up he's working right now you can see in the background I'm sure he's working on that we're gonna pull our rear extension housing out or start pulling our clutch packs out sometimes these things get stuck a little bit but just finesse them wiggle them now you want to be careful when you take this off we just heard the thrust drop which is okay there's a thrust washer and you can also see that the pin for our parking pawl stuck in here which is not a big deal we're gonna pull that out sometimes they're kind of suctioned in there a little bit this pin goes in here and you'll see when we assemble it there's a spring also you got to be careful with that but we got out that off we got our apply piston is basically right into this back housing want to set this off on the side for now we're gonna deal with that piece later this is our thrust washer that goes in there put the nut back on this just to keep this assembly together for right now now we're gonna go ahead pull his pin slide this out get it off the spring sometimes can be a little bit of a fight but not bad I'm just at a bad angle here I'm usually doing these from the other side there we go we're off now we're gonna pull this piece out that's all our parking mechanism right now on the side now we're gonna lift this planetary assembly out we're gonna have a bearing underneath here usually stuck still sticks to the planetary we're gonna got that kick it on the side basically we'll just keep those all they do vary a few of the bearings in these transmissions throughout the years as far as size and whatnot so I tend to just Park everything off on the side so I can reference and quick and go to the back room and get the bearings we need this is our return to spring assembly for our c5 clutches I'll pull our quantity Sun gears out of here again where they're setting everything on the side we got a bearing underneath here set that off on the side again I go in here I just grab this drum I'm not gonna get all the clutches but I'll get a good portion of them and this and pick it up go to the bench with it we'll see two on these see fives when you get these out if you guys look at these and I'm gonna show this to you 95% of the time when you pull these out and I don't know if the cameras gonna pick this up I'm not sure the mileage on this truck I know it's over 200,000 you'll still be able to see the part number inked on those clutches this this is the one clutch pack that in an average build never gets replaced when you drop your truck into first gear out of park this clutch pack applies sees very little wear the only time this sees a lot of wear is if you do a big smoky burnout in first gear you're putting an extreme amount of load on this clutch pack but other net it's not bad you can you can you can basically see everything on here all of Inc markings everything right from the factory with the part numbers pretty amazing we've taken these transformations apart with four or five hundred thousand on and you still read the ink marks on it so when you set that path off on the side for now set our planetary off on the side now we're gonna work and we're gonna pull our c4 clutches out which is right here this has a inner snap ring and an outer snap ring on the earlier versions that inner snap ring is a spiral lock and it's really critical on the five speeds and we'll grab one from the backroom later and just show you that so you can see what I'm talking about in case one you guys do a five-speed transits it's similar to the six-speed and that way you guys can see the differences in it but we're gonna go ahead and now take our take our pick tools and pry tools and get these snap rings out of here do what I'll do is I'll get that get my fingers under it and just keep working it around [Music] now we're gonna go for our inner if you look there's gonna be a split in it which is right here here's the one end of it the other end of it ended right there this is a six speed enough runs this style stamp ring I'm gonna pull that out try to get underneath that with our hope tool lightly I'll try to get my fingers on it if she went back in try her again you get to the point where your hands are so full of transmission fluid on these days everything seems to be pretty slippery we're underneath it now we're gonna do the same process as we did with the other one we're just gonna work it around just keep working it and working it keep coming around right to the end here get in here pop it out and there we go now we can go in we're gonna grab our top pressure plate hit that now we can grab our whole clutch pack assembly got our entire clutch pack here these are c-- fours and again you look and you can see in a lot of heat that got put into those clutches obviously again it's stock clutches so they definitely caught some some heat so we're gonna go ahead yank the apply piston out down in there turn that let the fluid run off it a little bit in her catch pan and now we're gonna be ready to rotate the trans again and we'll get the valve body out of this trans we're gonna roll the trans okay we're going to pop our pan off here you ask it came with it Allison specs these gaskets as reusable we kind of use our discretion but quite honestly 99.9 percent of the time it gets a new pan gasket which ensures all leaks this is our filter and then when you pull the filter the o-ring or sticks down in there so I just put a flat plate in there just carefully pry that out you don't to Mar the case take the filter we're just gonna discard that that out of here now if you look we got electronics lots of them you've got two clips that hold this harness down into the valve body which is a clip here and a clip here so I'm gonna go through and carefully remove all these and explain to these hog how we do them most of it's pretty self-explanatory you're gonna just pop these clips right here I'll use a small flat blade just come right in here and pop these when we get to these style there's a little tab and I just come in here real carefully and push but not too hard cuz you'll break it and release it and they'll pull right up a knowledge again you push that little tab into here and they'll come right up an off we got another one down here for another solid night we're gonna pop that and another one here neutral safety switch right here this one here and then the last one here is our pressure manifold switch get underneath there carefully wiggle that one and we're oh now we're gonna pull these two clips right here same thing I just put my thumb over the top because he Springsteen are these clips can go shooting up in the air pop that our whole harness is loose we fold it all the way put our clips back in to hold them solenoids in and now we'll be ready to pull the rest of the valve body out for our parking pawl setup also holds our neutral safety switch in place if you look the pin that pulls off the arm here so in a ball these two outs first got those out we're gonna take all these bolts explain what every one of these solenoids do or this video will be a mile long we get underneath there pry up on this a little bit loosen it up we'll swing that tube out of the way next we're gonna we're gonna pull our pressure manifold switch in this tube this tube actually is for reverse and you'll notice - you've got one gold bolt here on this pressure manifold switch it always goes in this location on five speeds this tube is in a different location you have the same bolt here that holds it but there's a tab that comes off here and goes to that bolt hole also so the bold bolt would go through the tab on the tube and the pressure manifold switch alright there's our manifold switch I'm gonna take the hardware we always watch and inspect these two very closely they have ol rings on here that seal onto the valve body you always got to make sure there's no damage there and you always got to look in here to make sure there's not debris if there's debris or anything ugly these get pitched again this is one of these items that nine times out of ten we end up replacing unless we knock at ran stone that's got really low miles and everything looks good we'll run it over but otherwise it's not one of them items that you have to replace if the transmission came in it was properly shifting and working and they just wanted to build trans then you can use that over we're gonna get underneath here with a flat blade again stay away from that surface area because that's where we're sealing o-ring on just give this a little wiggle that will come up and out I'm gonna leave these three in I'm gonna leave this one in and if you look over here I'm gonna leave these two in also they hold the valve body together I don't want to split the valve body in the casing everything else is going to come out of here all right we do leave this one in also with the bracket but that holds the solenoid in same here so now all I'm gonna do is there's there's a couple double pins that hold this in I'm just gonna grab the front of it you can see it's loose I'm gonna pry underneath the back here a little bit just wiggle it and I'm gonna come to this corner because this is where one of the dolls is we're just gonna work this thing and wiggle it just a little here a little there and the thing will pop up out of here there we go we're loose now you do got to unhook it down here and that's for your Park mechanism go see into your valve body if we ran unhooked that off there and you see that pin on the six speeds all this will stay in here it's impossible for it to fall out on a five-speed that's not there any kin fall out and it's not a big deal you can reinstall that later once you get done building the valve body which this will be one of the last things I'm gonna do we we always put the valve body and last we've got that assembly out we're gonna just work on getting our pan harness all quick you're gonna see that there's some fingers those we try to collapse they can sometimes get caught with debris we lightly work this back and forth real carefully and we can get the whole harness right out there's four fingers on this that hold it in two here two here if they should break I suggest you just buy a brand new pan harness pan harnesses are not that much money we actually stock the pan harnesses for all the Alice's so we've got that out set that off on the side we're gonna finish tearing the rest of this down getting the rest of the boots out of here for the dip sticks and everything that plugged this off and we're gonna go ahead and have Chesky wash this whole housing [Music] [Music] all right we're gonna get that main housing washed we're gonna get everything washed and we're going to come back to you here and we're going to show you all the parts how we inspect them what we do we're gonna finish getting our c2 clutch drum assembly c1 c2 watch come down we're going to do our stator assembly and we're going to show you the valve body so we got a lot of content here yet for you guys so stay tuned so our transmission case is all washed at this point we hand wash every one of them what we're gonna do now is we're gonna put our fixture on here which you see we're gonna bolt in with two PTO bolts PTO cover bolts and what we're gonna do is we're going to drill a hole in here for the c3 oiler we're gonna then run the Garan covers which is got a casting on the inside we'll show you that curves and directs the flue it into that hole we're gonna increase the oiling to the c3 the c3 is were the most starved clutch for fluid in these transmissions and that's what we're gonna do is we're gonna increase the oiling in there so that we don't have clutch failure so we're gonna go ahead and put this on basically all we do is do this finger tight it's it's nothing nothing that crazy interesting all the the fixture in place when you drill through you want to be careful when you come through with your drill bit you don't want to go like a maniac and just run that thing in there as hard as you can so basically run the film through here you'll be able to feel when it starts coming through now philately take this fixture back off and you're gonna see now once we move these chips out of the way there we are there's our hole I'm gonna grab a cover and show you guys so you can see exactly what we got going on so here's the cover for the passenger side you can see the galley that's passed in there this cover will go on and when when doing so when the fluid comes around and spins with the with the c1 c2 clutch drum it's gonna take the fluid throw it up against the cover and it's gonna direct it and drop it right into that hole really cool setup there's a number of different c3 Oilers on the market this is the one that we use and we've had good luck with all right we're now doing the the driver side of the transmission same thing we just use the opposite side of the and I run this down in I'm just gonna stick the drill bit down a little further so you guys can see and you'll be able to see right where that drill bit comes down through into there and it increases our oiling alright so we're gonna grab our c1 c2 clutch drum and what you do that oh oh no no that got retired we don't need that no more we got a new milk crate it's it's right here here you guys I did you know like this so there's our new milk crate oh somebody even got a milk moustache on there all right we'll set our drum assembly up here make sure we're locked in where we want to be and start taking this apart basically again we just come in with a pick tool we got to get in on that edge put a little flat blade behind here pop our stamp ring assembly out here our Drive flange it's a tight fit one thing you guys do want to look at address it right now obviously the stuff needs to get all washed when these transmissions start to get some high mileage on or abuse or whatever you have to look at these corners on each side real closely because what will happen is this gear is so hard and this is a stamped steel plate it'll wear this out and it'll pick up slop in there and you'll actually see where marks in there and you'll feel a burr up on the edge and that's how you know it's wearing pull the seat tool clutch hub out then set that down I have a bearing here which is gonna get replaced if I see one clutch drum lower bearing and now we're just gonna pull all our clutches right out of here this is where on the prior trans video that we did with Josh you'll see that the drum was hurt internally again that only happens from those black choline steels that are super hard you're gonna have a spiral lock on the top you'll remove your spiral lock and you have to get a pair of snap ring pliers and get down in there and this one's a little tricky to get out sometimes but you're gonna get down in there get that snap ring to mark it up popped out and now we can pull that clutch assembly off and get those inspect all this stuff obviously we're not using the clutches over now we're down to the point where we got our input shaft we're going to grab this set of snap ring players we're gonna relieve this one like to drop it all the way lift it up and then get a fun bite on that stamp ring oh there we go not super high pressure we're gonna relieve the pressure off this so we can get the snap ring and get the rest of this drum assembly apart get the snap ring get it up these are really tricky to get out because they're so down darn play down in here we're gonna get a little fluff laid underneath there lift pull her up right in there and just work it a little bit there we go okay we're gonna pull all this out of here get everything down so we can replace every seal and everything in here internally now we got one snap ring left on in here I'm gonna do this I'm gonna take this and drain out as much fluid as I can I'm gonna get the last snap ring down in here when we relieve this one she's gonna pop up just a little bit right we'll get this snap ring out these can be a fight sometimes to get down in there pretty snug sometimes you may even have to just go down here with a small flat blade and just try to rearrange that snap ring a hair and move it there we go she popped we're gonna bring it up pull a whole drum assembly out we'll split these two apart there's another spring assembly in here pop this off and now from here we're gonna take each piece piece by piece strip it down we're gonna go into the wash tank wash everything and then we got one last whole ring down in here that we're gonna remove I'm gonna go ahead and we're just gonna remove all these which is gonna take a bit of time we're gonna remove all the seals and everything on the drums in or out or everything else everything's gonna be washed and prepped and then we'll get everything ready to reassemble we'll soak our new clutches we'll check our clutch clearance how to install our new bearings and we'll have this whole drum assembly ready to go back into the transmission well we're gonna assemble a c1 c2 clutch drum we've got our new seals on everything we got our seal on here we've even got our sealing rings on our input shaft and everything else now what I like to do is I like to Lube all this stuff as we put it together you never want to put a dry seal together it's going to skid possibly tear rip whatever and I use what its gonna run in which is transmission fluid so we're gonna lube everything up with trans fluid we're gonna suck all this stuff back down together and you guys can just sit back and watch there's probably no such thing as too much fluid down inside these got that down in we're gonna put our turn spring assembly in there this one here we're gonna need our our spring tool to get this down in this one could be a little bit tight to get down in now we're gonna get that down that piston down in there we're gonna drop the snap ring and it's not gonna set yet because we're gonna have to suck that piston down further so we can get the snap ring to go so we're just gonna basically prep it and leave that sit there and put our spring compressor in here and you're doing one of these transmissions yourself you're gonna want to make sure everything is lined up to where you can get back to your snap ring again otherwise if your tools in the way you're gonna have to undo it and go back and start over so we'll bring this up to the bottom of the drum here snug it up and we'll wrench this down and basically all we're doing is just compressing all the springs inside there all right we'll be able to bottom it out we'll take our snap ring now I'll drop it down in she's gonna give her a little poke and we heard her snap and set right in so we're good to go and back this off get the inside of the drums everywhere possible this piece sometimes it takes a little tap to get down in not a little shove but we'll get her down in there sometimes I just take the end of a dead ball and get her started for a light tap down and in drop our return spring assembly again we're gonna want to position our stamp ring that we can get to it what I use is just the this isn't the c1 drum from this transmission this is just an extra one I'm gonna drop this down in here we'll put our spring compressor on there and suck that down they don't make a lot of tooling for Allison 1000 set I've been able to find we've got the basic stuff a lot of the tooling even in my industry and drivetrain stuff you got to make your own there's just nothing out there especially when you're building one-off stuff so you got to make your own slugs for seal driving and everything else so basically they can buy this spring compressor at I bought mine I think either few jigs or summat but I've leave it with summat so basically now we're just going to tighten this down we're going to get that snap ring set now feed this snap ring down and around catch it underneath that lip keep working it around give it a little shot and there we go and on this particular one I like to do sometimes it goes further than the groove so I like to double check and just get underneath this and just pull up on it and make sure that it's set and it's in the groove so now we'll just back this off and we'll get our input shaft assembly in here and we'll be able to start stacking clutches on the input shaft we've got our new sealing rings I like to put a little trans gel on them because when we slide the converter on I don't want that converter going on dry over those and transfer Lube just really doesn't stand in place too well so we're going to smear that through full with a little bit and then we're gonna put this shaft in the drum assembly drop our snap ring back on there we go now we're gonna start stack and clutches we're gonna stock stack to see ones first and we're gonna get it all together we're gonna put a snap ring on this we're not gonna put the Spiro lock on just the basic snap ring and we're going to take a measurement and see exactly where we're at so we'll go ahead and start that right now always follow your instructions if you're not getting a trans from us or somebody else follow the instructions for the clutch clearance and the order of them stacking we're putting these in dry right now we are gonna pull them back out once we get our clutch clearance and salt them and trans fluid and then we generally let them soak for a half-hour and then stick them back in the trans we're gonna drop our top plate on set our snap ring in here we're gonna check our clutch clearance you gotta make sure this one sets all the way down in there we're down now you're going to lift this plate up and slide the feeler gauges under I have 86,000 right here the spec is 85 to 95 I always like to run a little on the tighter side we got perfect clutch clearance right here in order to set the clutch clearance you can either use a feeler gauge or if you want to go through the effort you can set up a dial indicator and move the plate up and down and do it that way that's a lot of screwing around when you can simply achieve it this way the main thing is just to make sure you pick up on that plate and then it's not cocked down on one side because that's gonna give you a bigger opening on this side so what I do is I do it down get the feeler gauge in lift it back up firmly and feel my feeler gauge and rock it side to side and I'm good so there's a there's our clearance we actually machine our own top plates because we found that we need to in some cases because the clearance is that much off and we machine them ourselves this particular one is a 420 thousand so the kit came with a 450 but we're good to go here so we're gonna take this back apart soak the clutches for a half hour we're gonna stick them back in here and then we'll finish doing our c2s and dropping our drums in and our new bearings we're gonna start dropping our clutches in the ones that in this particular case with this clutch is the ones that go in first the lining goes downward these are the g3 alcohol these are really really good clutches we're gonna have the lining facing down and we're gonna start with the external spline and then we're gonna alternate back and forth until we got all the clutches in there you got clutch material on both sides you just got to keep going back and forth from internal to external spline and again some of the clutch kids can play upon what you use may call for a different orientation as how they go in now we're gonna drop our top plate on we're gonna drop our snap ring back on and set that we're down in now this is where it gets a little tricky you guys get as much oil off your hands as possible because we need to set this the spiral lock in yet this is a spiral lock when you look at these you have to be very careful that these don't get twisted around because there's an offset in here so you could physically get this thing spun around the other way and it'd be incorrect and you're gonna get a different clearance and I'm gonna just demonstrate that so you guys can see now if you look at the end of this you'll see that this comes across and there's no spot fork to go up in so this is totally backwards could it happen maybe not likely but we're gonna bring it to your attention so here we go we got our spiral lock we're gonna get it down in one corner we're gonna work this around and now we got a lift up on this whole clutch assembly I grab the whole thing so we did it to drop in and if you've seen that it just went in and I was just check it with a little tiny flat plate just put some pressure on make sure it's there then we're gonna put our bearing in the center which is right here we've had that soaking in trans fluid and now we're gonna drop our boom on you're gonna turn these back and forth and you're gonna get the clutches to bite the drop this this may take a few minutes and again you try to get as much transferred back coffee as possible because it's hard to grab this stuff especially when you've got trans put it all over your hands you'll feel it hit right there and it's all the way down in always make sure to your bearings are going the right direction now we're gonna put this bearing in next this is for the c2 clutch hub this bearing if you and if you guys decide to build one of these transmissions on your own I highly suggest you get one of their kts catalog or something to that nature so that you've got reference points this bearing goes face down just like that now we're gonna drop our c2 clutch hub I already put a little trans gel on the on the thrust there to keep that in place and just a little bit of Lube on it some guys use a sleeved clutch hub or a billet one in the horsepower specs that we've run we've run up this what we build this particular trans gonna be a 750 horse we don't have any need to sleeve this or put a billet in we've never had one of these hubs explode if we do a bigger build then for sure we put that piece in that's full billet so we got that in now we're gonna soak our next clutches that got to go in there so and let these soak for a half-hour or so also and then we'll come back to you and we're gonna get these in we got our bottom steel in we're gonna start dropping clutches and we're going to alternate again clutch steal clutch steal pull we're all the way up to the top and then we're going to take a measurement on this and see what we got for clearance the tolerances are so tight and you really got to be on it otherwise you create a situation where you may have slippage or something else and cause it clutches to prematurely fail what we're looking for on this is around 70 to 80 thousandths of clearance and I measure these simply with my vernier like it's a depth gauge I just catch the corner or where the top plate hits okay we're gonna come in and grab this grab this log right here and measure off the top of there so I'm going to come down I'm gonna bump my vernier right onto there when they take our measurement we're looking for 70 to 80 thousands of clearance so we're good to go we're gonna end up putting our top plate on now putting our snap ring on and we'll be all set ready to go and we'll be ready to drop this assembly in the transmission that's it c1c2 clutch drum assembly is ready to go in alright we're gonna work on our stator assembly next we've already gone ahead we've got our c3 clutches soaking right now in ETF because when we're done with our stator will drop our c3 clutches in we're gonna get those all make sure they all shim out as far as the clearance goes will drop our c1 c2 clutch drum in then we'll drop our stator assembly bail house and we'll call the front sight stuff you can see there's still some gasket on here and everything else so we go ahead when I peel off all this gasket we're gonna make sure both sides of this plate is gonna be cleaned down all the way for any little debris when we're all said and done we're going to take this apart we're gonna go through the pump we're gonna look at that and check everything out on it pull our thrusts out of here we're gonna do a bunch of mods to the stator assembly and what guys through it what we do here sure there's a lot of different builders that do different things all different ways and we'll show you what we do we're gonna take this plate at this time we're just going to take it over put it to solvent tank for right now let it soak for a few and we're gonna come back and clean this but we'll get these other components apart here first all right we're gonna take this we're gonna get our convertor flow valve off which is right underneath here we're gonna go ahead and all we do is just take a small screwdriver we're gonna push in on this take a magnet pull the pin right out comes right out now we're gonna reach in and grab all this stuff out of here [Music] and all this what you see right here we discard some available do is we'll take these and drain flats on them and use them over we just choose to use the converter flow valve we'll put it in and make it all happen next we're going to pull this apart so we can get to the regulator spring we're going to increase pressure on that so they make all different sorts of tools I made my own this seems to work pretty slick we just basically run this in here we're going to pull this out pull our dowel off and pull us all apart there's a couple different ways to do this when we've done both you can change the actual regulator spring tester for spring or they do make shims for underneath there we actually make our own shims for that with our CNC so we're gonna go ahead we're going to strip the rest of this valve out are this not the valve body with a stator down mr. the stator down we're going to get the rest out of here we're gonna wash everything one thing we're gonna look for when we're inspecting this and I'm gonna try to make this real clear on the on the video now is it common somewhat common issue if you're gonna have one with this piece these two oiling holes have to be at six and twelve o'clock so when you look at your assembly here here's the bottom of it you got to make sure these are lined up if this sings or twisted you're definitely gonna have wailing problems plus you're gonna have problems internally here because the splines are tearing out of it so we're gonna go ahead and keep tearing this down you're gonna take the pump apart here and it's still got quite a bit of oil in it we're gonna inspect this plate once we wash it up for any galling anything that doesn't look right I'm gonna pull our gears out these have a set-to mark on them we're gonna look very closely at these to make sure there's no cracks there no imperfections no nothing if you were to ever accidentally drop one of these on the ground I would highly suggest you quit right there because they are fragile and I would get a new pump we're gonna take this pump we're gonna drain it we're gonna pull the seal we're gonna pull the bushing out we're gonna put the outer seal from the bell housing out run wash this all up and get our new bushing new ceiling and everything get our pump back together after we inspect it all as long as it's good and go from there so for now I'm gonna set this over here in the wash tank we're gonna wash this stuff up we're gonna pull this snap ring next and we're gonna get that so we get the bearing out of there and then we're gonna flip this and take the apply piston out of the back these can be pretty tough to get out at times and sometimes you'll see here where the snap ring stuck underneath there so what I do is I just come in with the flat plate and give it a little twist and I get her out I tend to release these inside here so you don't end up wearing upside your head because there's a lot of pressure on that we're gonna flip this over I'm gonna try to pull this up a hair just by hand if I can they're sucked down in there pretty tight sometimes a little tiny pocket screwdriver works the best I just usually catch this corner very carefully wait like that it popped up pull this out we're gonna wash this we're gonna pull the seals all off here I'm also gonna pull this off the gasket and we're gonna clean up this whole back half and we're gonna end up running this back piece through the hot tank we're gonna get the rest of bearings out we'll be good to go Hey our stator is ready to go back together we got some of the pieces already back in place we got a bushing back in new bushing we're going to drop our sealing rings on we're gonna get these down and on there's these two are two different size we'll drop it on in place and get the outer on I got that good to go when I flip this and we got three of them on the backside that we're putting on and you want to make sure that when you do this that they're lined up properly that they don't get offset or something in another we got it just right there and what I do is I usually set one like at two o'clock ten o'clock I'll set one at six o'clock just offset them not a lot of rhyming the reason I just do it to keep them offset so they're not all lined up much like piston rings so got that we got our bearing in the back we're gonna get our converter flow valve in here ball goes in the converter valve first then our spring when install it in through here carefully you got you don't want to push in that thing too hard that the spring of the ball would drop out I'm gonna put the end piece in there and all I'm gonna do is just take a flat blade screwdriver again push that in here drop our pin in and we're good I just like to go back and recheck everything make sure that the spring and everything's working properly down inside there gonna put our regulator back in here now and use the same stock spring we're gonna use our shim that we machine I'm gonna put this back together now what we've done is by putting that shim in there we've increased the pressure on the spring which is increasing our life pressure we're down in we'll take our doll and we'll drop it right back in here we're good to go I've already got our pump ready to go we've got our new seal in our bushing our exterior o-ring for on the bell housing we're gonna go ahead we're gonna get this assembly together we're gonna get the bolts back in if the thrust on it and torque it you got to be real careful doing this when you put it down through so you don't catch a seal ring and break anything I'd like to keep just two bolts handy here carefully bring this up and again a lot of rebuilders will possibly do stuff differently this is my method of doing it is there a right or wrong probably not as long as you get it back together and everything torqued right you're good to go I'm gonna put two bolts in here we're gonna start them or on the impact on very low because we're gonna sort these it's basically just hold it together which I already got set I torque these at 20 foot-pounds I go through them once and then I go through them a second time just to double-check everything on them there we have it put our thrust back in here I'm gonna take some trans gel we use this here and there I'm gonna take a little bit of trans gel just to kind of smear that on there basically to hold it in place because when we assemble the trans this is gonna be facing straight down I'm gonna put a little bit on the bearing just to kind of lube it up a little bit and I like to put just a little bit on the Rings or the gap on them s and then we'll smear a bunch of this stuff down with transmission fluid to when we go together so spin this around sliding the converter on when we get to that point to that's another critical thing you want to make sure we use we made our own set of doll pins that thread into the converter so that when we slide this the converter into here which is where it goes your input shaft comes through here that you don't damage any of these sealing rings if you do it you're gonna have a problem right out of the gate with the trans it's not going to be correct so we've lubed up the inside of our bore here on our transmission case which we've thoroughly inspected this case for any cracks or anything that we could see or any porosity holes or anything stupid you also got to watch very closely at the finish on these cases this is actually a machine finish in here and it's coated so that the piston itself doesn't get tore up so at any rate we've looped this with a bunch of trans fluid smooth it around in here we're now gonna drop our apply piston in the apply piston has a weep hole that belongs at 12 o'clock we're gonna drop that in I want to push the piston down in you heard it snap down in and we're down in now we're gonna drop in the retaining string the return spring assembly that's gonna sit down in now on this build we have the black Colleen's with the g3 clutch material the instructions call for the relief hole on these Steel's one steel will have these relief cuts in it and when you see those cuts you got to be able to get one of those cuts at 12 o'clock which is going to be right here here's our relief we're going to drop this in because this is the top of the transmission I'm going to drop it down in sit down in now we're gonna alternate our installation of our clutches which I already oiled I'm gonna drop a clutch and then a steel gotta make sure that everything's lined up properly you'll see the notches in the case and again these pre oil all this stuff to make sure that there's plenty of transmission fluid on this my last clutch now we're gonna drop our pressure plate down in and then this will be the fun part pressing that down we got a lot of spring pressure on these alumel bills we're gonna press that down we're gonna get our snap reset kind of get it in and under there and I just worked this around very slowly and if you just keep pressing down with your thumb and everything you'll get this to go keep moving it around keep working the snap ring now we're over now I just give it a thump and get that snap bring the drop I push it down a couple to three times circle ends we're looking for a 60 thousandths we've got 60 thousands on the feeler gauge I'm going to run the feeler gauge between the bottom of the pressure plate and the clutches that's exactly what we got so we're good to go we're gonna go ahead now and we're gonna drop in our c1 c2 clutch drum we're gonna get that in when you have to grab some gaskets and lay some gaskets down here and then drop in our stator assembly there's our bottom gasket you're gonna want to make sure that everything lines up perfectly I get these as close as I can right out of the gate now we're gonna drop our state or right on top of the whole assembly these things are pretty heavy you want to use two hands you don't want this thing to slam down on there cuz you got sealing rings on the backside and there we are drop right into place or put our top gasket on we're in place and now we'll be able to drop our bell housing on drop our bolts in and torque everything basically these bolts have o-rings we took all the old ring old bull rings off and we have the new ones going on these bolts are all the interior perimeter bolts these are our two bottom bolts with the coppers on and we got a couple of oddball ones on the bell housing that will sit out here we'll be ready to go I just put a light bead very very light bead of B up inside there just so we loop when we go onto the o-ring want to drop the bell housing down on I'm gonna line that up with our holes inside here just kind of give this a lake tap back and forth we're down on I like to go to the very outside bolts and get to those in so that we know everything's aligned and I give them a little wiggle that all feels good there and now we're just going to go and drop all our bolts back where they belong we get to the interior bolts again like I say there's you got to pay attention what you're doing the two coppers they're gonna end up at the very bottom our interior bolts we've got all the way around [Music] and then we're gonna put all the bolts with the o-rings on on the interior of the bell housing area through all the ones with the brand new o-rings we're gonna torque all the bolts in here what I do is I go across to just to start with and then just start going around working on the outside ones I'll go around this thing one complete time and then come back a second time because obviously when you torque this bolt here there's no pressure on the rest of them and as you come around they'll you'll see when I torque it they'll take just a little bit more torque so we're gonna go ahead right there and now we'll just work our way all the way around [Music] we're gonna go ahead get our two cooler fittings back in which if you guys can tell this truck already has the hydraulic lines for transmission cooler lines should've put these back in we're gonna snug these down and then we're also gonna go ahead and get our filter on many times I've taken these trainings apart or even just once we've serviced in the maintenance gone a lot of times what'll happen is a guy will unspent a filter off not realize that the magnets stuck and he throws the filter away puts a new one on the magnets gone so here's our magnet put that on we're just going to take a little to have a trans fluid on the gasket I'm gonna spin this on snug her down by hand real good well we have not sold our clutches yet I'm basically just setting clutch clearance right now if you look I'll get down in here we got a ton of clearance way more than we're supposed to have I put I got 60,000 so on this feeler gauge we got a mile in here so what we have to do at this point is they give us selective thicknesses for the choline steels that separate these clutches so we're gonna have to take this back apart remove some steels and keep adding to this to build this clutch pack back up closer to our pressure plate so that we get our proper clearance so right now the Steel's that came in the kit I have all the thin ones in here because I'd rather go deeper to begin with and build it back up than have it too tight and not be able to get the snap ring on or super tight right out of the gate so we're gonna go ahead and take this back apart and we're gonna add a couple clicker steals in here and build this back up and take a new measurement see where we're at alright guys so we went in I took this all back apart we took two of the thinner steels out my gut feeling said put two thick's in we did we needed to get her to our 60,000 splints and we are spot-on so now we're gonna take this back apart again soak our clutches for a half-hour we got to get further down into the transmission put some more parts in there and we're gonna get this whole thing assembled after we get our clutches so we're gonna drop our Sun gear down inside the case here we got a go way down in just drop these in I keep turning them and they're gonna grab the front see three clutches as we go and just keep turning and wiggling and you'll feel this when it finally hits down on the backside and gets tougher as you go and right there we are we we hit right down on the bottom so perfect now we're gonna go in we're gonna drop our bearing in here which you've already had soaking in ATF we got that in now on this clutch kit because we increase the clutch count we end up running this spacer also that came in the kit it's going to take that with our thrust put these together we're gonna drop them on here and now the trick is to hold that all in place because it's got to drop down and in and this is where our trans gel comes in pretty handy so we're gonna put trans gel on here on four sides this here will smear that down in this one hurt anything with the clutches or whatever this got a low melting point in fact on a warm day it's it's a lot softer than when you're doing this in winter time in the job but we're gonna smear that down in here that's gonna hold it in place so we can turn this and drop it in and not fight with this thing so that should be enough to hold it where we need to be want to pick this up I want to carefully set this down in here and I'm gonna turn this and drop it in now the trick is to get all four gears lined up to drop so we keep kind of playing with it a little bit and all of a sudden she'll drop just like that so we're good to go we're need another bearing down in there before we get too far drop that one into place and now we're gonna start stacking our clutches back in here which we've had so cleaner we're going to go back alternating our steels you guys can see how they really increase the clutch count on these from factory which is such a really cool deal because we'll take a lot more power we're going to drop our back pressure plate in at this point we'll put our small snap ring in first these can be fun to get set because we got a lot of pressure on return so what I do is I get in here and I try to get one side down and caught we're down in under there now I'm gonna just work this thing all the way around we'll keep pushing down on it and you can see we're down but we're not in so what I like to do is this is a pretty heavy steel plate we're in the groove but we're not set back where this snap ring belongs because we have our outer snap ring that's gonna lock it in so all I do is come around give this a light tap with the screwdriver and if you watch over here when I hit this you'll see that the snip ring starts working its way out the case now that's all the way out and about now our opening on our snap ring is over in this area I'm gonna purposely offset this snap ring the other direction and I try to shove them down in at an angle like that and usually you get him to go and drop real easy there she's downing in got our bearing already in place I'm gonna drop our next planetary down in and this is where we start truck rolling pretty fast that's down and in I'm gonna drop our next bearing in and I'll stop and say here - now we've inspected all these planetaries the gears we've checked the clearances on them we looked at the thrust we did all that there's a lot of stuff that needs to be done on these we couldn't document everything on this build but we got the meat and potatoes of this so we're gonna keep rolling along pulling the drop bar after intermediate chef in start stacking the gears back in here got a spacer that goes in next another gear and one more bearing alright we're gonna drop our c5 clutches back in I'm going to apply bottom apply plate and then we're just gonna start stacking clutches again these are all the stock clutches that were in this transmission rarely do you replace the SI fives they normally hold in there pretty good if you had a higher horsepower application that was more than like a 750 horse build or something that nature then we would definitely look at replacing those also then with hypothetical watches put in our return spring assembly that's got a tab that goes right to the bottom side of the case we're gonna drop our last planetary in here down and in take the nut back off obviously we need to take our trans at that time make sure it's all the way up as if it were in Park drop that back in I'll put our parking pawl in we're gonna hook that in put our pin back down in I always try to line this up too it's not necessary but when you get to torquing the nut on the back you're gonna want that where it's at we got our new rear output bearing in place we're gonna now go in here with the Stamp ring you'll watch a snap ring the snap ring he's got a bevel on the edge of it I don't know if he's gonna be able to zoom in with the camera and catch that close enough but it's got a bevel down on it the bevel sites always up you can put this snap ring in backwards so we're gonna go ahead drop that down in there and make sure it sets there we heard a drop in what I like to do right or wrong or indifferent is I like to just take a flat blade then just catch one of the holes give it a light spin it around we're gonna get the apply piston in the backside here again we're gonna use some a tee up in here we're gonna Lube this up we got all our new o-rings on the other piece this also is we got to make sure that this ends up down in that cavity that's where we gotta line it up so what we're gonna do is make sure that this drops right into that cavity so you got to kind of line it up so what I do is I try to get it down in there and I try to drop that site first just right there we're perfect we dropped in squeeze it down in and there we are here we go with our extension housing this also got to make sure we line up we're gonna line up over here with the pin for the parking pawl we drop down in that's good want to start all our bolts loose some of you guys probably have experienced or seen and we've seen plenty through the shop here where this tail housing will crack and break nine times out of ten it's the result of a bad u joint bent driveshaft something shakin in the drivetrain very difficult job to do in the truck as far as replacing this bail housing and very critical because you can real easily drop a clutch out of place and cause issues so when we do these here you'll see that you've seen all the clutches that went in when you have this thing in the truck lane 45 degrees from this it's real easy for the clutches to fall back out of that thing we have done them in the truck I've done them in the truck already we have quite a way of doing it we end up pulling the transfer case out of the truck moving it back onto the ground and we actually have a special slug that goes in the receiver hitch on these trucks and we lift them about a good 6 feet near on the back so we can maintain all the clutches sliding forward nine point nine times out of ten we'll get it and we have no problems every now and then we'll have one that'll fight us and we'll end up having to pull trans to get it done we're gonna go ahead now I'm gonna run a couple east down by hand because you don't want to run them down with the impact because that is spring loaded and you want to make sure you draw that thing down real slowly and evenly I'm gonna go ahead and torque these and again on these just like the bell housing I'm gonna run through them twice so I'm gonna start over here I got that one snug I'm gonna go here and now I'm gonna work my way around two times torque it the only thing with this is with the valve body out you got to make sure that your transmission stays up in park so I'm gonna kind of hold that over there because you gotta keep the planetary from spinning otherwise it's all going to spin in a circle all right we're right there I'll keep the pressure on it there we are this is the Allison socket for the one-to-ten Allison's for the spanner nut in the back I also have the one for the 11 and up elemental style trans which is a bigger spanner socket because they run a bigger output shaft so we've done a lot of 11 and off LML trans bills already also alright guys now we're moving on to the valve body alright what I do is I take a little small flat blade there's a break right in here I get there and then I slide around to this backside and kind of split it there and try to get up into the middle there's another dull right up in here right there I also hold this top plate down here because if this comes off the solenoids are gonna come off trim valves and everything inside there's gonna shoot off because everything spring-loaded so let that piece off what I like to do is I just for now until I strip it I'm gonna lay it back on the bench top and I just drop the socket down just to keep pressure on that plate so everything doesn't come apart here's our mid plate this is gonna get drilled for our shift kit we're gonna get a bucket and drain all the excess fluid out of here right here we have a little tiny filter that filters the fluid in the valve body and we can always inspect those and look see that sometimes will dictate how much clutch material a transmission may have in it so you pull that out and we'll look at this closer but all in all it looks pretty clean this was a stock trans that really wasn't beat on all too bad clutches got a little hot but I've had these already where the stock transmission and somebody's really roasted hard on it and these things will be packed pretty full of clutch material so we just kind of laid out the instructions here so you guys can take a look at it I'm just gonna grab a screwdriver here as a pointer so if you look at this all what's gonna end up happening is both of these trim valves one has a ribbon at one dozen our turn gram developed with the rib right here is going to be on the outside edge of the valve body and the other one's gonna be on the other inside so everything behind these pieces right now what you see right here where it says reusing the instructions everything behind there we're going to discard and then we're also going to take to our Center plate I want to drill two holes in it with the with the eighth inch drill bit that's provided there we're in a pop a hole through there and there I want to file that down will show that to you so with that we flatten the surface back out so we only have no fur from the drill bit or anything else so we're gonna do here is we're gonna pull this plate off keep your fingers over the top of these two because I'm gonna want to pop up see how that one just did it no big deal we're gonna take that set it down and take this one pop it out set it down cut in an angle a little bit and I'm gonna pull it up and I got the spring and that all these parts here so far we're gonna save I'm gonna pull this out next push these through and we'll come off the front side okay right there there's the other one now we got the rest of the guts that are in here yet I'm just gonna take this and dump this and show you the pieces that we're gonna display that's basically what we're pulling out those are the old valves so we're gonna finish stripping this valve body down we'll wash everything up where we started taking our valve body apart we're gonna pull all these out and again we thoroughly clean everything we're gonna lay this all out here there's another one there's our spring take this side apart get that out now we got that all done we're gonna clean all these parts we're gonna come back to and explain a few things here a few modifications we make we're gonna pull a solenoid out you have to shift solenoid and we're gonna break clean all this the rest of this strip here's our mid plate for our valve body these are the two holes I just took them marker and circled the two that we're gonna drill and file down just so that you guys could see it easier and rather than me try to point to it so we're gonna go ahead and drill those and then we'll file it off from both sides flat some guys will use a chamfer or just a hair bigger drill bit that's also another option you just want to make you do not enlarge in the hole any more than what that drill bit is so we'll go ahead and drill these I'm just gonna take a file and knock the burden on these and then I'll show you my trick what I like to do take the drill bit then and run through the opposite side just make sure that if there was a metal chip or a burr it's gone I'll go back and check this side we're good to go now I'm just gonna go and hit this with a little brake cleaner and blow it off for one final cleanup here is our our factory spring that was it's the same screaming all these we've run an upgraded spring and basically it's a hair longer spring to put more pressure on it I'm gonna try to hold it there so the camera can see it and you can see the difference in length our Springs we run are just two hair longer so they're an updated spring they work well and that's what we do so we're going to go ahead we're gonna get rid of the old Springs and we're gonna assemble this thing and put all the new Springs back in it [Music] this one here we don't have an aluminum cup onion so I just take my flat blade kind of push that down got a sit around a little bit got her in and every one of these two I always go back and I just double-check everything's moving slowly just take my screwdriver put this one in next we have another upgraded spring showed that in the aluminum cut back in there go there got our last one here and there we are now we're gonna take our filter which is right here it's a brand new one we're gonna drop that in the valve body stick that down in that'll be good there I'm going to take our mid plate that we've now drilled set that on and you'll be ready to go there and all we're gonna have to deal with the top half of our valve body when go ahead and reinstall our solenoids this one's gonna go back in with the spring feed it in here got a guy don't be careful doing this one sometimes I'll put a little trans gel on it or I'll just turn it upside down what I'll do is I'll get it in there I'll hold it with my flat plate bring it back up and then I just check to make sure everything seated in place and that feels good bring this solenoid in flip our bracket back on put this in I just put some white light small pressure there just to hold it torque that once we get it all back together now we're gonna go ahead and we're gonna put our valves in so I've already got these bags cut open so we're gonna just dump the parts out I'm gonna try to lay them out here so you guys can see everything we got two springs in a check ball and this stuff here I definitely use the trans gel on so what I'm gonna do is take this the smaller spring put a little trans gel on get that ball to stick on there and literally shove it right inside there then I just take a little bit more trans gel just put a light bit on there put the spring on and just enough to hold it in place now this one with the rib is on the outer edge of the valve body I'm gonna stick that in get that one in again I just kind of check it with the flat blade we're gonna do the same thing with the other one this one doesn't have the rib on take a little bit this trans gel get that ball stuck on there get a position just right get it in there stick that in again just a little bit to hold that spring so it doesn't move on me when I put it in that one up and in we're good to go and we stand her up honey in our last steps here I will start dropping everything back in that we took out we ran all this stuff through the tank we washed it with mineral spirits and then we also just took brake cleaner and brake cleaned everything that one's down and in get this one down and in okay Baltimore in do not mix up your solenoids they are they are different and I'll put both of those in I push them down and hold them in place I'll put these accumulators back in put our plate over the top everything's in place there and all I'm gonna do is just take this at this point and drop it right on to the other half of our valve body you see our doll right there when the drop in we're good there and then we got one more on the opposite side go lined up just try to catch this one right away cuz that's obviously holding all our Springs and everything else in there recipes in alright there's our valve body we're back together we'll get our pan harness clean we'll get our new o-ring on that and we'll show you the install into the bottom of the trans alright so we got our trans ready to go I got the new o-ring on our pan harness I took a little trans gel and just lube the bore we're gonna slide this into place you'll hear it clip just like that make sure that the fingers grab all the fingers grab that this doesn't come out I've seen where guys do this they put the harness in they go to plug it in and end up pushing this right back into the transmission so if you got one of them fingers that are broken I highly recommend you replace it so I'm gonna flip that harness out of the way I'm gonna shift the trans up to here so I can catch that pin this is our selector pin that is gonna go in in the selector inside the transmission we're gonna line that up right into that groove so want to spin the valve body we can slide that up here so we can catch it now we're gonna make sure that catches and then we'll just drop at the valve body not drop and set and it's in well we're talking everything here I got a system I kind of go through on all these I torque these at nine foot-pounds it does call for a Newton meter we calculated over and that's about what it comes out at is nine foot pounds so we go through these I do these and then I get them all done and I go back a second time and I double-check everything I know some of you guys you might look at that and say a light on it over at two times three times better safe than sorry make sure you got everything correct I'm married at 10 so we're gonna finish up hooking up our pan harness and finish up the strands at this point right now we're gonna pull these two retaining clips back out we're going to drop our pan harness down where it belongs I'll put our clips in these clips clips are interchangeable from side to side so are these two particular solenoids we're in there now I'm just gonna come along and I'm gonna plug everything back in then go down to the very bottom here which is the toughest one to get down in your fingers at and we're gonna get this connection plugged in that one's in come up to the top and we'll just go right across plug it in I always double-check it kind of pull back on them usually you can hear them snap in this is our Neutral safety switch which we're in pressure manifold switch over here that's solenoid you also see that we put our our bar in here for our detent for our shifting it also keeps our neutral safety switch in position one more chip if you guys want to watch how that works as we shift into transmission it's changing gears in novela body but our neutral safety doesn't move because the other side of that's held in place there so we're gonna go ahead we're gonna put our filter on I put a little Lube on that o-ring just trans gel trans fluid whatever you prefer line it up put a thump with my hand it's down in and drop our pan gasket on our pan on we're gonna put our bolts in here we're gonna torque those at 20 foot-pounds I'm gonna pull this back out we're gonna put a new o-ring on that and that's gonna get torqued to 25 all right guys so as you guys can see this is the finished product you watch till the end of this video god bless you that's pretty awesome I know it's a very long video but very detailed and in-depth and again mark I do appreciate you allowing me to come here to the show bring the camera and document this and I hope you learned something I really do but yeah overall guys it does come down to the Builder now if you're watching this video and you know you decide you want to take on this endeavor yourself or you decide to pay a transmission shop to do this it really does come down to the individual that's actually building it and we can put some really amazing clutches and steels and you know whatever inside of the inside of the transmission but at the end of the day with 35 years of experience behind Marc's belt he really knows what he's doing I highly encourage you guys to reach out to mark here Kodiak truck in Wisconsin and if you're out of the state or you're kind of far away wouldn't be a bad idea to travel if you're really wanting something to be done there correct way so again mark thank you so much for allowing me to video this hope you guys enjoy the video awesome but other net guys I do appreciate your time as always we'll see you on the next video take care yeah so that was definitely a great video I had to say so myself that was pretty good absolutely yeah good what was their foot over there or something all I saw was a beard that's all I saw swirl [Music] bring that ranch back here where you going with that [Music] [Applause]

Channel: Truck Master

Views: 404,746

Rating: 4.8916817 out of 5

Keywords: lml, lbz, l5p, lly, lmm, lb7, duramax, 2500, 3500, 1500, gorend, ats, billet, stattor, clutch, clutch pack, allison, 6 speed, 5 speex, 5 speec, 5 speed, ppe, suncoast, remanufactured, remanufacture, rebuild, rebuilt, valve body, sun gear, gear, pistion, greg a, grega, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 3009, 3010, 2011, 2009, 2010, 2013, 2012, 2014, 2015, 2016, 20162017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, snap on, harbor, harbo freight, ford, chevy, dodge, gmc, silverado, sierra, gm, truck, jerp

Id: lUBD5_D_Iw0

Length: 79min 47sec (4787 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 09 2019