Upgrading a Perfect 400k Mile Cummins Diesel

all right guys welcome to the channel welcome to the build-up of will's race truck will i'm looking you kind of straight today this is not your normal height well you know sometimes it feels good to grow five inches overnight yes it's a good way to go right there uh no no no so todd hijacked my project a little bit and he said hey we need to test our fuel system and turbos because this is a bone stock truck with 410 000 miles so yeah anybody's truck out there should run very similar to this if it's stock oh yeah and we got these new turbos we're coming out with i haven't released them yet but basically long story short is we have a very popular turbo called the k27 it's been a great turbo i love it biggest problem is borg warner doesn't make it in america they make it in brazil brazil is where they come from and it's we can never get them we have like a bunch and they're gone for six months and it's been a real supply issue of getting it it's a good turbo it's a definite nice upgrade to a stock turbo but man it's hard but it doesn't matter if we order 10 or 500 it seems like we get the same amount delivered and it's so frustrating and so guys like you can't have a nice turbo so what are we what are we so we've just we've been working on some modified stock turbos you know the borg warner is just a drop in it's their version of the hx-35 that's the k27 so we're taking some hole sets and we're going to modify them and we're going to test them out here and see if they're better or not and so i mean one of the cool things is we're using the he351 wheel on these turbos now this that wheel is like the king of all 60 millimeter wheels like nothing's ever come close to it yeah you talked to any turbo engineer at boar garrett road a master whoever yeah they say that is like one of the best home runs whole sets ever hit three 351 wheeled that 8351 60 millimeter wheel which is kind of modeled after the super hx40 six blade wheel but it's a seven so it's quiet and uh it just it's a flow monster didn't meyer hit like bang near 700 horsepower on that wheel on on the northwest dino circuit yeah i mean there's guys you know when everything's tuned perfect with the right flow they're getting up to almost 700. that might have been a healthy correction factor but still it's ridiculous hi it's ridiculous height so so we are going to put in that wheel in the 8x35 with the stock turbine wheel and some different turbine wheels and we're going to test it out and see if we can't find an affordable replacement for for the k27 then we're also going to do some a little bit bigger hot rod stuff too our super nines we'd call it we'll play with those as well so maybe that's kind of like a hybrid right yeah it's kind of a hybrid custom turbo and the whole reason for the super nine is in the past testing stuff we've done they seem to work really well like the giveaway truck has a super nine i mean and it's supporting a thousand horsepower and a compound setup and it spools like stock and i hate to say it but i mean i think this comes right on the turbo so anyway so we're gonna play with a bunch of turbos on here maybe just one or two right away and some fuel yep and then after todd's done playing wimpy 500 horsepower whatever this is then this truck is gonna become a dedicated race truck and i got a race coming in three months so this is gonna happen quick yes well we're gonna do this quick so right away is we're gonna do the fuel system and put like a 550 horsepower fuel package on here that should be enough fuel for 550 horsepower we're gonna see how close each turbo can come to that we're going to do spool up time so they're all going to have the same fuel package right yep no fuel setting is not going to change so just getting a 550 fuel package with an ac live so we can play a little bit of fuel but for the most part it's probably going to be max fuel is going to make max power and it's just basically a back-to-back turbo test on a stock engine yes on an engine that's out there in the street so we're going to get the best 500 horsepower turbo available in this testing it's going to be super fun so make sure to subscribe the channel so you don't miss these tests give us a like and i think are we going to do anything with the head bolts or anything or just send it should we do some of our head bolt kits in there maybe well maybe maybe we'll do this this will the stock a635 will leave the stock head bolts because that's a 350 horsepower we know that 360 on a good day and um so that's probably fine for there but going up we may want to do that we'll get to 500 i don't think the stock head bolt is a good idea cool let me play the fire so anyway we're gonna get started right now and start tearing this thing apart and it's gonna be awesome okay so todd and i made a little plan off camera maybe it's okay he may have got it we'll see he might have filmed it i don't know but basically i'm gonna start tearing this apart because we're over in a new little cubby shop next to power driven yep and we don't have any parts here so john's gonna run get the parts i'm gonna start ripping this thing apart and we're gonna put this fuel package on right now it's gonna be awesome [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right pro tip this little vanity cover is annoying you have to reach clear under the cow get your hand in insulation to do this and it bites you after removing this about four times when you progress in your hot rodding 12-valve cummins career you throw these things away there this is a proper looking 12-valve [Music] whew last week [Applause] guys you're taking the lines off if you leave all six of them bolted together clamped together they go on and off way easier there's room if you get your wrench just right to put these you take all these little clamps off it's really hard to get the lines back straight and running true so better off to just take them all off guys we're working on trucks it's nice to tuck this over so it's out of your way this upper radiator hose but i guarantee you if you do that at some point in your career you will forget about it start the truck and the fan will eat this belt i've probably lost five or ten of these over my career of working on these things so it's convenient but it's also dangerous proceed at your own risk okay so when you pull this off as a kit just make sure this stuff's out of the way and if some of them hang just turn them out a little bit they should come right off as an assembly look at that beautiful that'll bolt right on way easier next time all right dude i am back with mega parts i've probably bought got more than i should have but you know you started walking around the aisle it's like oh i need one of those i need one of those so this may be a two-part installment here but i got the you know 60 pound springs probably not needed for this but i mean you're here anyway so i mean you know we should do that i got the little tool so we can put the springs on make it easy cool all right let's go here i got the head bolt kit okay so i was thinking about like right here this deep anyway it'd be stupid to come back and do it later so if we think we need it we just do it now so i got the head bolt kit that's uh somebody's binding water gloves i like gloves so i got gloves for me um see here oh this goes ahead this is the tool for the head bolt kit governor springs cover spring tools there's anything about that yeah we have the screen tool um afc live while we're in here let's put the afc foot in there so we don't have to waste our time modifying crap 400 000 mile afc housing new rebuild kit we're going to rebuild the afc i think that's awesome you're talking about your belt crank bushings and how the tps sucks in this thing yeah hunts for overdrive the hunts for overdrive because the tps sucks oftentimes it's just a bell crank bushing so we're gonna put these things in probably solve that hunting for overdrive issue um timing we've got the timing of your puller and our timing wheel so we can bump timing up here for sure we need that what are we going to take it to you 18. don't you think it's about for 550 horsepower sure yeah uh help us out i got our 5x12 injectors here these all come with the install kits all our coppers and washers are here and i got us a polar so we don't jack them up pull them out of there we're not gonna vice grip out the threads on this one it's gonna be great 400 000 mile injectors they might not come out without it yes i want to pull over sure i figure for these little turbos the boost up is nice enough we don't need a turbo tuner necessarily at this level so i thought this is a very simple way to up our boost we can do that with this guy right here boost elbow uh oh two five delivery valves give us some more fuel in that pump pretty awesome while we're in there setting timing i got this new pin in case that one's missing or broken or something if you're 4 000 miles while we're in here i don't want to run back over the shop and grab them these are so cheap but just like it's a pump timing kit pump timing kit and then our max travel kit we're gonna need to have that afc slow down a little bit with our extra fuel so so that's our bag of parts or box of parts i guess is more accurate so there's one thing we need that you forgot oh crap let's look as they pull them out valve cover gaskets get some valve cover gaskets bad all right i'll go grab some of those too [Music] all right will i came back and i got some more crap too because you know that's what you do when you go get stuff all right so first off i decided to get oh we need one of these i'm not sure if you have to deliver out a dv socket here in your toolkit or not so i sell that from tony perfect uh i got the boot kit because i just those looks so crusty i'm like you know what it's not a big deal you put them on here and um so i got the boot kit with it with our super clamps these things so we're probably gonna take this turbo testing to high levels of boost maybe 45 50 pounds if we can yeah what was interesting you probably knew this but tony never told me and i didn't know because i don't do stock boots very much there's a different angle on these two one's passenger one's driver so the passenger one has a much uh less more angle yes there's more angle and so i just thought i'd just get a 45 degree angle that's totally not going to work so the different angles so we got the right boots one for the driver's side one for passenger side so it's going good i got the gasket for you do you know any vehicles no one has blown them up yet no one's blowing them up yet we got the valve cover gaskets and then i got the intake horn gasket so yeah 140 pounds of boost is what these are rated for so far yeah we haven't blown it up one forty five forty five one forty five oh my gosh so these are holding up in the junker 145 pounds of boost i think they'll work out okay on the single turbo testing but those are i mean if those have 400 000 miles on them let's just replace them they might have sometimes they rub on the inner fender remember too oh yeah somebody can wait holes in it right now yeah we'll see when we take them off okay keep cracking [Applause] [Music] and it came off but it was harder than the rest of them so everything we do a number six is going to be harder than anything we do on one through five i don't know why it has to be that way and that is a totally effective life for sure all right ejector puller tool this is a very this is a very simple tool makes pulling injectors a breeze so if for putting fresh you can pull them out by hand he's been here a long time knocking out my hand some guys will grab the threads with vice grips channel locks and they send them back in for a core refund and we cannot refund it if these threads are buggered up sometimes they'll grab the flats here there's a on the side of the injector there's a thought a field return if they if they put marks in this we cannot give them a full core refund so if you're gonna give seven injectors do yourself a favor get this simple little tool works really well nothing's fancy about it and you will be able to get full core refund on your some injectors rather than saying sorry your injectors are junk you should have used something to oh this is the first gen one sorry so this is a this is the first gen nut and the second gen there's two different sizes in the kit depending on the first ones have a smaller thread or a smaller pitch or diameter excuse me covered cough there it is okay three so just tied her down she comes injector out save yourself a ton of headache and nasty stuff and then it just comes off somebody might say it was because i wear gloves and will's a real man because he's got dirty hands since you're real man could you give this little tug and break her loose nice and firm so the barrel doesn't good that's gracious but i will say you go to any mechanic shop anywhere through our gloves same two hours later look at these gloves here we don't need that where we're going freaking todd you know how you hide gloves from todd hide him in the toolbox he'll never find him we're not a counting shop we're a race shop that's very different we're ready for you mr muscles mr muscles good firm we don't want the barrel turning got it no movement why do we not want the barrels turning tell the folks why you got to do a good firm pull because the barrel can turn if the barrel turns that changes the orientation of the barrel to the plunger which affects when it starts injecting fuel and how much the quantity it's not good [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] guts don't fall [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] all right so here's the old injectors i got it all out now when you pull injectors out make sure you see a copper washer come out with your injector we're gonna put new ones back in so you know sometimes these will be stuck or in the bottom of the thing of the hole it's not hard to get it back out just make sure you don't put two washers in there don't leave this one in there and then put another one on top of it so all of my injectors have their washers with it so we're good to go he's ready to see this action magnet this factory d beaks this is 180 horsepower you probably can't see it says oh 52 181 so people call these a 181 delivery valve pretty simple all right so this is the stock 181 delivery valve this is the power driven o25 you can see the seats are different the seat's not where the magic happens the only thing that magical about the seat is some guys see this and they'll put these ones in upside down so this is the bottom and this is the bottom don't flip those around the magic is right here the shoulder of the delivery valve controls how much fuel comes out of it this valve has to open further before this shoulder clears that and lets full fuel come out of these flutes the o25 delivery valve has a narrow shoulder that's where the magic happens where we're picking up that 25 to um kind of pins on on the pump but you can pick upwards of 60 ccs of fuel guys that don't speak fuel that could be almost 100 horsepower if you have enough air behind it so that's the magic of an 0.25 delivery valve all right guys we're going to do delivery valves next now there's one mistake or problem a lot of guys have if you have a 94 or 95 model year pump injection pump so a 160 or 175 horsepower pump or if you have a newer truck and maybe somebody swapped a different pump in there there's a little steel shim that goes underneath the factory delivery valve that you do not want to reuse we want to pull that out so it's coming a little tighter here and i'll show you in the pump right where this steel shim is and which one do you wanna get right here so you see where my pick is pointing down on top of that that is the actual barrel and on top of that there'll be a little shim so you wanna look and make sure there's not a shim there if there is you need to pull it out and throw it away then your new delivery valve this big side goes down so these are o25 delivery valves they just drop down just like that and these are clean from power driven so you don't have to but you clean them off if you want but we package them pretty clean drop them right there in the pump really easy to change delivery valves okay so we're going to take these o-rings off the delivery valve holders and install the new ones that came provided with the delivery valves it's a little kick works great just to get that thing started and then you just roll it off like that then i like to spray these off with a little bit of brake cleaner then the new o-ring just roll it on like this and if you want you can look in here and see if your pump has had any rust or anything in it and if this falls out it's not the end of the world this is just a little spring seat it's got a couple of shims on it just put the shims back in put that on goes right back in just like that now that needs to go right on the tip of the delivery valve so like on an old one here see the top of the delivery valve this spring ends up going just like that and then this compresses down and seats right on the top of that when you install it so after you clean it off i like to take a little shot of wd-40 just because i like to lube that o-ring a little bit you can use oil whatever i just want use grease if you're like a real pump shop but a little oil is all we need let's go over here and put this on the truck so then i just hold the spring with my finger and let it kind of fall short distance onto the delivery valve i fish it so it's on the top of the little valve and then just thread it in by hand and you're watching this o-ring get crushed down in as it slowly works its way in make sure it doesn't get pinched and it kind of popped and went i could feel it with hand [Music] so [Music] so all right so now that we got all the delivery valves installed now we got to torque them the first step is to take them all to 25 foot-pounds this just kind of seats them in make sure everything's straight so don't go over 25 is all we're doing i think it was 34. now in one motion you want to go right to 84. so a click-type torque wrench is actually better for this you just got to be on your game with this otherwise you're going to over torque it you can split the seat if you over torque the delivery valve i guess you could pull the threads out of the barrel too if you're really really rambunctious 86 to 88 was my range not not bad for freehand all right those are all cleaned up and good now we're gonna do valve spring all right guys we're gonna do the valve springs now because the injectors are out uh we're doing a whole lot to this engine let me just pull injectors out and put them back in but when the injectors are out the engine bars over really easily because it's not to compress all that air now there's a cool tool an engine bar until you can buy that goes down the adapter plate that'll turn the uh the flex plate i guess it is i mean if you have a it's just a flex plate it'll turn that and it'll turn the engine over really easy but it's kind of a pain to get down there so if you have a 7 8 socket on a wrench you put this on your alternator pulley right here and you can turn the engine over backwards so you're not going to be like you're losing the bolt as you do this it rotates the engine over backwards the engine is moving easily there's no injector so it's nice so there's lots of different ways to hold your valves in place if your piston pistons down in a stroke and you take off the locks and keepers and retainers this valve is going to fall down into the cylinder which is a big mess you got to take your head off you don't want to do that some guys make cool contraptions we're going to pressurize air into the hole and that'll hold the valves up against their seats and that works cool for me it's much easier just to make sure i have the piston at top dead center in its respective hole and then i can just let the valves fall on top of the piston and you have no issues so how do you find if what pistons at top dead center well with this engine going this way then it's going backwards so what you're going to do is you're going to watch your intake valves you look for one that's coming up let's go on number one here so we're gonna wait for number one we're gonna watch number one intake valve and it's gonna go down and this is the intake this is the exhaust very good yep thank you well some people don't know that absolutely well i'm glad you said it okay intake's going down so we're not there yet all right starting to come back up i'm slowing down i'm watching this come back up now i'm watching the exhaust valve that exhaust valve starts to move okay just move okay these are both now moved so this is an overlap so this piston is now a top dead center now the cummins has companion cylinders one and six two and five three and four are together so if this was a top dead center that one is also a top dead center not relative to the cam but it's the top of the of the cylinder so you can do one and six at the same time two and three at the same time three and four at the same time some people say and this is technically not a top dead center of the compression stroke yes but number six actually is yes but the pistons are both at the top of their stroke in different you know relative to the cam timing all that kind of stuff so now we can take this guy off and these guys will just sit right on top if you're nervous and you want to verify find something skinny to poke down the hole you'd be able to feel that piston there it is look in the piston so i know that this is the top dead center so now the valves will sit on top of that so let's pull that we got to pull this head bolt out while we're doing that might as well replace with our new head bolts it wasn't very tight yeah dude some of these old trucks are not super tight [Music] oh [Music] [Music] so [Music] so [Music] like that [Music] all right what are we doing right now is we're going to replace the stock valve springs with the upgraded 60 pound valve spins these are stiffer they can handle more rpm what we're also doing is replacing the stock retainer and locks this this here is the stock piece for one it's very heavy and it's a very soft metal and this are the actual pieces that hold the valve in they're quite small let's compare them to what we're going to replace with this is the stock piece hardware this is what we're placing it with so much heavier duty much stronger and the reason we want to do this is as you get more and more rpm these will start to actually pull through these little guys what's in here and the valve will actually start pulling it and pulling that down further and further and further and pull through it'll actually crack these bases here these are these are these retainers they're just they're junk well they're great 400 000 miles they're not junk they're great for their intended purpose but when you start increasing rpm they are not designed for that so what we've done is many guys like even me and my junker i ran these with 60 pound springs got a little over 3 500 rpm and mine were spider cracked and i had several of these that they were just about to drop and if you drop a valve at rpm you're munching a piston cylinder wall i mean guys have windowed blocks from drop valves yeah so it's really a mess so we come up with this chromoly retainer here and so this is a much lighter weight much stronger material heat treated chromoly yeah it's awesome and obviously with the much stronger locks we don't have any issues with these things pulling through and breaking so this is a much more modern uh valve retainer lock setup and it's awesome and honestly this is the most affordable valve spring setup it's not the highest performance but for most guys i mean this this is by far the best bang for your buck out there so anyway we're gonna put these in this truck here then we can have confidence as we rev it up it's gonna be great and um yes let's get after it great time to change your valve stem seals but let's be honest papasaurus is going to have a race engine pretty soon so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay let's put that new head bolt in there all right since we're not gonna be putting the stock head bolts back in we're gonna do the power driven upgraded head bolts um this is just it's a nice replacement you got longs and shorts these are the long ones because this is the uh rocker tower so this is the longest bolt in here [Music] brand a lube there this arp lube lots of it so you can do a good job so we're going to lube up the threads real nice i'm also going to lube underneath the head of the bolt there's a lot in here so you should have plenty to do this job with some despair honestly i'm going to do underneath this underside of the bolt here so it doesn't any friction and then she's ready to go in now this is a socket cap bolt and 125 foot-pounds your typical chromies probably not up to the task you may get through a set you may break a crummy so we offer this nice tool you can get with the kit here this is a nice head bolt socket so you can option this if you buy the head bolt pack and this will be uh this will get you through the no problem very strong tool okay at home that's it that'll hold the power for that particular boat we got to replace the rest of them but it's not that simple one at a time [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Applause] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] so all right now that we got the valve springs and the head bolts installed we need to redo the valve lash generally whenever you put a higher strength fastener in the engine it crushes the head gasket down a little more which will tighten up the valve lash now on an old truck like this one we're working on 410 000 chances are the valve lash was too loose to begin with so if anything it makes it closer to spec but since we're going to kind of hot rod this on the dyno a little bit i want to make sure that we're set at 10 and 20. so on the cold engine you want the intakes at 10 000 you want the exhaust at 20. what we need is is literally five tools for that we need a 10 000 feeler gauge a 20 000 feeler gauge a screwdriver to turn the adjuster on the rocker arm we need a 14 millimeter wrench to uh turn the lock nut and then we need a 7 8 socket on a ratchet then we're going to turn the alternator now we still have the uh injectors removed so the engine is going to bar over really easy that's why i'm doing it right now we're going to do this the same thing todd told us earlier in the video where you want companion cylinders so i'm going to turn the engine over with the alternator it will only turn over in reverse we're looking for an intake valve to come up right as an exhaust valve so valve overlap so when we see that on a cylinder we're going to know its companion cylinders at top dead center where we can set the valve latch safely now there's other methods in the cummins manual on how to do half the cylinders bar the engine 180 from tdc to the other half and although that works on stock trucks the stock cam when you start working on race trucks with higher lift cams you learn that that cummins method does not work and you can't set your lash so we train all the guys and mechanics at our shop to do it the companion cylinder way that way you're definitely on the base circle of of whatever cylinder you set in the lash and you never ever have screwed up lash let's get to it so first i'm just going to bar the engine over we're just looking for a companion cylinder okay so back here in number six i can see the intake valves coming up as soon as the exhaust valve starts to go down right there now i know i can safely do the latch on cylinder number one because one and six are companion cylinders any two cylinders that add up to a total seven is a companion cylinder so now i can do the lash on number one and see both of these are loose you can't do the lash on that one because they're an overlap so all the lash is gone essentially the intake we're actually spot on there and it was probably at 12 000 before but since we added the head bolts it tightened down the gasket it probably tightened up this latch so that one's intake's perfect let's check the exhaust exhaust just fine i mean it might be about 20 and a half thousandths but i'm not going to mess with it for this so now let's go to the next cylinder so number one's fine okay it looks like this intake's coming up so as soon as that one goes into overlap that means we can do number four okay so now number three is an overlap we can now do cylinder number four 20. that's good so that one's a little bit loose i'd say it's about 12 so we're just going to loosen this adjuster here put our feeler gauge in we just go till it's tight you still want to be able to slide this but you want some decent friction okay so right there we're there now we're going to hold this tighten the adjuster pretty easy we're holding the screw so it doesn't turn perfect so one and four are done let's watch for the next companion cylinder okay so it looks like number five intake starting to come up right there intake came up exhaust started going on five five plus two is seven so i know this one is the companion cylinder if the head was off both of these pistons would be all the way up this one's an overlap this one's at top dead center of this cylinder so now we can check the lash on it check the exhaust 20 good and tight that one's probably 19 and a half it's close enough for what we're doing that one's pretty loose in fact i wonder if a 20 will go in there it felt really loose oh a 20 will almost go in that intake's way loose okay so we've done cylinder one two and four let's keep going and see the next cylinder that goes in over that looks like number one is coming up this looks like number six is gonna be the next one exhaust is perfect on six intakes a little loose it's about i'd say 11 000 cylinder 6 runs a little hotter so i'm just going to leave it it's too hard to work back there anyway okay so 1 2 four and six are done so it looks like number four is coming up so the next one we're gonna do is number three now number three is an overlap or four is an overlap that means we do number three three plus four seven simple math that one's a little loose an intake walk to just that exhaust just right you can't get your wrench on there just slide the rocker arm out to the edge of the okay so remember we've done one two and three now and six looks like number two intake's coming up so number five is going to be the next cylinder we're in overlap so now we're on number five five is good look the next one coming up is number six that's where we started so six is an overlap we come back and double check our work on number one if you're really thorough like your race truck you'll just double check them after you borrow the engine over just to make sure next one coming up is three that means number four is the next one just like we did before 10 and 20. perfect all right lashes set let's put the injectors in now all right guys we're going to install the injectors now we commonly get questions what thickness of washer should use factory first generation cummins have these thick washers factory 215 horsepower trucks have these thin washers they're about 20 thousands and most 180 horsepower trucks like this one was 96 automatic they came with a medium the difference is this kind of changes how deep the injector sits down into the engine bore a little bit generally found if you run a lot of timing you want to run these thin washers the downside is if your old head is cracked or you don't get the injector bores very clean these don't seal as well so usually we tell guys run the mediums because they're easier to seal one and two if you have cracks they don't burn out as easy as these ones if you're going to turn up the timing a lot then definitely you want to run these thinner washers because they get the injector deeper in the bowl which allows it to have more timing and still spray correctly into the piston since this is just a 550 horse fuel package and we're not cranking the timing to the moon we're going to go with the medium washers okay sometimes it's hard to keep these copper washers from fallen when you tip them down in the cylinder so a little bit of grease or this is some sort of silicone grease but regular engine grease works just fine put a little bit on there and that'll hold this washer in there because it kind of suctions on there see now it stays there now you can drop this in the hole without the washer falling ball side goes out there's a little detent and cylinder head down in there that lines up and you know this hole goes that way pretty easy drop her straight down take your hold down nut i like to throw them down finger tight first and then come back with the wrench that way you can make sure the injector is seated [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] i like to go to 42 foot pounds on the ejector hold downs i think the spec's 38 or something like that but 42 is what i've always done there we go all right now that we've got the injectors installed let's work on the afc housing and get an afc live and afc foot installed on this injection pump and we'll also need to do the governor springs so we're going to show you how to get the factory governor springs out and install a 4k governor spring kit we're going to take this factory feed line off so that we can get at the tamper screws on the afc easier since we've got a grind on it now we got all this access here [Music] [Music] now comes [Music] [Music] so uh okay to get the afc housing off the shutdown solenoid has a bracket on top of it this just pivots out of the way if this is too tight there's an eight millimeter bolt underneath here that that's too tight and won't let this pivot but this one i'm just gonna force it there see i got enough i get afc housing out there it is the afc is out all right you don't want to drop anything inside the injection pump governor housing that's anything below this this is the fuel plate we're pulling out you use an impact screwdriver to break it loose but you want to be very careful not to drop that split washer in there or you got to fish it out with a magnet or pull the pump because it will blow up the governor housing eventually if you lose anything in there looking at the hole it looks like the fuel plate is in the factory position so it's kind of centered on the plate if this plate was slid all the way where this edge was lined up with the edge of the threads that would mean the factory plate fuel plate has been slid so i'm wondering if the fuel plate itself is a little worn and that's why we got a little more power on the dyno maybe this was a factory freak we'll see so on this factory fuel plate you see this witness outline where the washer under that bolt head was let's see this shiny mark here it looks to me like somebody has slit or messed with this i wonder if the factory maybe had most mess with something on here or the dealership at some point because it definitely has two witness marks where it had been so i'd say the fuel plate was not necessarily in the factory calibration because right there is where it was but it could be slid back into there you can see from the wear marks here so i would guess some somebody's been in there that must be why the horsepower is off a little different what we think who did that it's hard to say it could have been the factory been a dealer could have been joe schmo we don't know and the old man can't remember he's had the truck too long okay we're gonna work on this afc housing the first thing we need to do is get rid of this tamper screw underneath this little sheet metal cover a lot of people call that the smoke screw what that is is the pre-boost fueling what it does is it sets how far this afc foot is forward or rearward which this is a boost reference throttle stop so if you screw this in it moves the foot this way and gives you more fuel before there's boost if you're a hoon again and you crank this all the way in you lose all of your boost reference fueling and you get full fuel all the time and it smokes that's not what we're trying to do we just want to take this off so that we can adjust it back a little bit because this uh this new afc foot this power driven one we're going to put in is modified so it can have more travel but we don't want to lose our smoke control so we need to get in here and adjust this a little bit [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] nasty that it is stuck only boost is supposed to be on this side so all this oil is oil that came out of the intake track or stuff that leaked by the seal in here because there's crankcase pressure in here it's pretty clean looking oil [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right now we're gonna get the max travel kit installed first thing we gotta look is we did a 35 psi spring you see that's longer and heavier so uh this is kind of how some of your smoke control comes we got a little bit stiffer spring controls the afc better and because longer it has more range of motion to control let's get this new diaphragm the old one on this truck looks okay but i wanted to show you get a new one these are kind of terrible the new ones the same size from bosch just not all beat up from boost and oil from other years let's get this double washer back here oh we need the spring first spring double washer move the foot forward so we have something to clamp on put the outer washer back on you go just till it starts crushing out this just a little bit so you're good and tight snug perfect power driven foot in here so you've heard the stock one it's a little bit modified on the profile it's a little taller so the governor arm doesn't get above and do weird stuff and uh the barrel has been trimmed already so that it can travel get a lot more travel on this foot than factory one gonna put her back together we wanna make it flush just to make it easier to install all right also in the max travel kit we include these three three millimeter metric five millimeter socket cap screws to uh replace the tamper screws so instead of putting this screw back in that we ground a groove in which you could use we give you this nice nice little metric bolt here to make it easy on you over here we have a short one that replaces the smoke screw cover here and then we got a long one for the afc housing to replace this one here they rip off the afc housing so that's why there's three in there okay okay so you need a three millimeter allen wrench and a 10 millimeter open end wrench to adjust the afc foot we're gonna turn this in until we start getting tension on the afc foot somewhere around there i got tension and then we're gonna go in since this is a milder truck we're gonna go in uh two turns one and a half to two turns is where most trucks so there's a half there's one there's a half there's two then you want to tighten this little jam nut i don't usually put this tamper cover back on because sometimes you want to mess with the smoke screw more so i don't even ever put this on any of my trucks i usually throw this away but you can put it back on if you want it to look factory stock again we had this off so we could access the star wheel inside here is this little teeth thing this a check this changes the preload on the spring so we back this off because the max travel spring is long enough we don't need to pre-load it with the star wheel anymore you can do some tuning with that but generally you just back the star wheel all the way off with the supplied max travel spring because it's long enough that you don't need to add pre-load on the spring it already has a bunch okay well that's done now let's take care of this little mess down here 400 000 miles nasty o-ring all right from bosch make sure it fits and we're going to glue it in with little right stuff [Music] just trying to glue the corners and the gasket will stay in place sucker back on the truck we're just tightening this down [Music] normally there's a boot that holds this all on there obviously this boot's disintegrated on the shutdown selling knife now we've got to get the shutdown arm right here off there's an eight millimeter right there oil pouring out of there all right so now we're gonna put the governor springs in um we're gonna do this without using a barring tool um because you know that's how some guys at home can do it so we're gonna use our 7 8 ratchet our 7 8 socket on the alternator and we can turn the engine backwards we're going to come down here and look in the governor housing that we've opened up we've got to line it up wait for that governor to come into view the spring pack let's start coming to view now we want it kind of centered so we can get at that nut in the middle a little bit more okay looks great except [Music] [Music] [Music] and then [Music] [Music] [Music] yes [Music] come out two pieces [Music] this is the wear shim on the bottom this always goes back in this is the idle shim this always goes back in this is the very lowest piece when i did the other half this one didn't even come out the magnet i didn't fish enough but that's always in there little wear shim idle shim sometimes there's two or three of these little idle shims in there they basically make the idle spring taller so that you get tension on the idle spring before you get tension on the main pack which gives it a stronger idle which is good strong idle is good back in [Music] okay now we're going to put the shutdown lever bracket back on this shutdown shaft there's a half moon key that goes right there if you lose that your truck won't work right it won't shut down and it won't turn the fuel back on all the way so make sure we don't lose that but we also got to make sure we installed put it in perfectly flat then this has a cutaway in it right there that cutaway is going to line up with the half moon key otherwise you'll knock it out shutdown lever goes this way go slow and make sure you don't knock the half pin key out and that went in smooth should stay a little better shut down on perfect all right we put shutdown lever back on which should be fun the boot missing so [Music] nice and clean but that kind of clutch doesn't work very well all right so we just got the uh fan and fan shroud off and look at this fl this uh damner it is puking its center out this thing definitely needs a new dampener we don't usually keep stock dampeners on the shelf so this thing's getting upgraded with the fluid down there all right we're going to advance the timing the first thing we want to do is get the engine to top dead center so i'm going to use my little trick over here on the alternator with my 7 8 my alternator with my uh 7 8 socket we're going to bar the engine over backwards i'm going to watch till number six is an overlap when number six is an overlap right before i see the exhaust valve starting to go i know i'm really close then i'm going to reach under the pump there's a plastic pin that sticks out you can put pressure on it and it has a little pin that will engage the hole in the cam gear when it's at top dead center so i just want to get close before i try to reach my hand under there and push on it especially on a greasy old engine like this it's not comfortable to have your hand crammed in there i'm just going to turn it over a little bit in fact i'm getting really close i can see the intakes coming up on number six so i'm going to push this cam pin in and get it locked at tdc there it went hear that click now we're locked at top dead center let's get this open we got to pop the injection pump gear loose now and we got to get our power driven timing kit magnetic gear wheel set up on the dampener here so that we can do the timing so i'm going to do the timing on this truck the fast way the super precise way is to get it top head center there's a pin on the side injection pump you would then pin the pump because it should be centered in the window assuming the trucks that stock timing and then we can break the gear loose we can back the engine up however many are actually we're going to um to advance the timing we want to back the engine up which will make the injection of event happen earlier that's so advancing is kind of weird long story short if you use the alternator you can't screw up the alternator will only turn the engine backwards which only allows you to advance the timing you cannot the timing with the alternator unless you want clear around the circle we're not talking about that so the quick way i know this truck's at stock timing i'm just going to put the degree wheel and i centered the tdc 0 mark right on the rpm pickup sensor right on this side of it so to me i'm using that as a pointer if you want to be more thorough you can get a wire under a bolt head and make a pointer but i'm just doing this quick and dirty so the tdc's lined up with that so now i'm going to do is pop the pump gear loose and since this truck stock is i didn't look at the dado plate yet let's look at that 12 or 13 degrees so this truck's at 13 degrees so to take it to 7 or to take it to 20 we're going to advance at 7 degrees so we got to get this oil pickup removed [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] now we're going to take our third 30 millimeter socket you see this one's been through a lot and the only thing that fits is injection pump gear so you can say i've done this a few times it's right on here this is standard thread righty tighty lefty loosey oh [Music] you want this most of the way off all the way off you know don't drop it inside the cover there you're gonna have to go fishing for it okay you want to find the holes it looks like these ones are at about 12 and six they're straight across it just depends on where the gear is lined up since we're at top dead center that's usually where they kind of end up okay now that we got the gear loose i put one of the bolts from the puller back in here just so it gives me a handle so i can manipulate this gear what i want to do is spray aerosol solvent brake parts cleaner carb cleaner starting fluid whatever you want in here we want to clean there's a tapered shaft underneath this gear i mean we don't want oil in there otherwise it won't see this tight and you could slip the timing later [Music] yeah lots going in the crank case you know what you can change the oil evaporates slip timing sucks okay now this is loose let's back the engine up seven degrees and be all set back it up about seven degrees oops we went too far don't worry we can just go down on the dampener and turn it back forward with a 15 millimeter [Music] it's about 98 it's all we could get and started moving 60 beautiful [Music] all right now we're going to take the front cover off because it's leaking away like a sieve and this dampener needs to come off so it would have been a little easier to do the timing with the front cover off because you can see what you're doing but uh way to show you the way most guys are going to do it so let's get this front cover off first off we're going to get the belt and the dampener off and then all the front cover bolts got it [Music] see that that is a bad dampener that rubber is supposed to be flush this thing's caked caked with grease look at that rubbers all squeeze out that's my word for squ for when it's you squeeze it in the past tense squeeze [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] this is okay we're going to install the killer dowel pin kin first let's open it up and see what's in here we've got a new front main crank seal and a little installer tool and we've got the tab and we've got an extra dowel pin in case we in case ours is falling out so we don't need the dowel pin there's two styles of tab here if you have a 1998 model sometimes there's an aluminum boss right where this dowel is located so you need a little bit of a of a pocket like this our style's flat so we're going to use this flat tab we're just going to use the bolt that came right out of it and put a little loctite on it and send it home pretty easy okay so that's the killer dowel pin that can rattle out because nothing retains it it falls right on the cam gear there the cam gear spins counterclockwise which makes the dowel pin fall out and get jammed right in here in the case and breaks the case this one hasn't fallen yet but i can see it's backed out quite a little ways we're going to tap it in and put a little tab over it send her home [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay if you guys remember that stock dampener was uh falling apart is disintegrating so we're going to upgrade with this fluid damper you also need this you notice it has an sfi tag on it when you go quicker than 11.99 the drag strip they start wanting an sfi rating on your dampener so uh we're going to put this on uh this truck so we're going to take a racing but we actually needed it the other one was coming apart and i didn't have any stock ones to put on there so configured might as well upgrade it anyway since we're turning up the power [Music] just like that dude all right the torque specs like 101 foot-pounds and we put blue loctite on there after we clean the threads but it's too the engine will start turning over on an old 400 000 mile there's not enough 400 000 mile engine there's not enough compression to let you torque it that high so you can either have a buddy go wedge a screwdriver down in the flex plate or you can get a 200 foot pound little torque wrench and just send it as hard as it'll a little impact like this and uh it'll it'll usually stay good if you you send as hard as this thing can do it for a minute they call it the ugga dugga torque [Music] method [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so all right guys i want to tell you a quick tech tip about these power driven five-fly aramid fiber reinforced boots a lot of boot manufacturers when they made a these turbo hoses for your cummins they just guessed and decided oh the intercooler's about three and a half inches and the pipes are three and they made the angle about 45 degrees because they slam a little bit we'll come a little closer here and look at this these are the factory boots we pulled off now if you look closely you'll see this is the passenger side one this is the driver's side we know because it's still got the turbo discharge on here look at the angle of this boot versus the angle of the passenger side so the factory made the passenger side boot have a steeper angle than the driver's side now let's look here at the power driven boots that complement this here is the driver's side see it's got less of an angle and here is the passenger side so it's got a steeper angle so these are perfect fitment also these are not three and a half these are about three and five eighths or three point six two something inches you know our our guys got an exact fit these fit well and uh they won't blow up we've ran these to 145 pounds of boost on a real engine on the chassis dyno no failures yet so that's why we're gonna upgrade these boots so when you're thinking about upgrading the turbo hoses on your truck sometimes it pays to to buy quality parts now in this case we have one of the most affordable boots on the market anyway so it's not even like you're paying extra you're just going to buy the right turbo hose or boot to fit your truck and actually we'll will last a lifetime thanks [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] uh if you guys remember when we started this process we left all the lines together so that they would reinstall easily check how easy it is to install these lines when we left them all together [Music] all the holes line up [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so uh okay after you've had the fuel system all torn apart and for us it's been a couple days injectors pumps been opened up it's going to be a lot harder to prime the system so you need to leave a couple lines loose i like to leave lines that are easy to work on loose so number three probably has the most access i always leave number three loose number six is back there it's hard i'm gonna tighten number six all the way right now because i don't i don't even care if that one bleeds slower than the others we'll get all the bleeding done with one or two lines up here so to me i usually pick three and number two some guys like this one it just depends on your turbo and the coolant lines number one is kind of hard because the lift brackets here so i usually leave these leave three loose sometimes number two the other thing you can do a lot of guys are scared but you can make the engine run just on starting fluid if you start it up with no turbo and the grid heaters disconnected so there's no chance of a backfire from the grid heater lighting off the ether you can start a truck and just fog the intake as it's idling and keep it running and it will self prime really quickly with everything buttoned up tight so you don't have to break lines loose to bleed it it will self bleed as it runs but it's way faster if it's not trying to compress air when it's trying to push all the air out of lines it's wide open and just just a quick little tip when you're working on the fuel system on the 12-valve cummins okay we're going to install the afc live next the first and foremost is you want this in a convenient location where you can turn the knobs and see the gauge but most important you want to be able to hit that full power switch so this has a nice bracket that goes here so it's pretty easy we're just going to screw the bracket on and there's a couple little thumb screws that holds the bracket so it's almost like a trailer brake controller where you can pivot and stuff but in a race truck like this papa saurus i want this close so that i can hit that switch easily when i'm racing so i'm probably going to temporarily mount it here and when i put a ratchet shifter in here i'm going to get this mounted on my shifter base so that right there by my shifting hand it's easy for me to hit the full power because sometimes when you're like index racing or something sometimes you get a bad launch you need a little extra power and you just flip that switch mid track make up for your bad launch and you can just fend or race the other guy to the finish line to try to get the win without breaking out all right since this is an automatic there's a perfect place where the clutch um the clutch slave cylinder would normally go or the clutch master cylinder so uh we just put a little drill 3 8 hole right through the uh little plug there that's covering the clutch the clutch pedal hole and a perfect place to run the afc live lines the future will you run a boost line through there egt probes things like that so if you have an automatic it's really convenient if you have a manual i don't know if you're smart enough to drive a manual you're probably smart enough to find a way to route a line through the firewall boy all right guys so we've pulled these through the firewall now remember the one with the white tape goes to the cylinder head so you want to route this up here come under the cowl i'm going to use some zip ties after i work it back here right here's and zip tie somebody else's use i'll just hook it through here this is running down to the cylinder head okay so we're going to route this line under the injection lines and into this quick connect fitting on the cylinder head here if i can get it and keep my hands out of the camera view so you guys can see what i'm doing maybe not i gotta do it the audio gun yep okay so for this second one there's no white line but there is this quick vent valve this makes the afc live work a lot better in a manual transmission trucks helps the air pressure bleed off faster so there's a little bit better smoke control so we're going to do here is we need to cut a little section of line because we need a little splice part to go from here into this afc one here i'm just going to cut off the inch or so line on my beautiful valve cover there so putting this into the afc housing fitting here just insert it pretty easy and really important the white line goes towards the afc housing the white dot if yours is rubbed off you see there's little arrows there's an arrow pointing the direction the air flows in and out you want the airflow to go towards the afc housing then we're just going to hook this end in here a couple zip ties and we're done dude all right this is the moment we've all been waiting for first startup guys if you've never worked on a truck one of the most satisfying things you get to do after all your hard work is you have all this fear and anxiety did i do something wrong is it actually gonna start and then when it starts up and if it runs and purrs like a kitten oh the it feels it's the greatest thing in the world so i'm gonna share this moment with you we have no idea if this thing's gonna start up well i uh maybe cheated a little bit and and i primed it and i got the fuel out and was starting to cough so i think it's going to start we'll see how it goes check it out come on baby please start [Music] always want to check for leaks pretty smooth huh all right guys it runs so we're going to go slap this on the dyno i'm so excited i want to see how much power we added now remember we just put a small you know 500 horsepower fuel package on here so it's nothing crazy but i want to see what this stock turbo will do and with these mods and let's see if that stock will hang in there fingers crossed maybe it will maybe it won't but i guarantee you with the governor springs and a little bit of fueling we did this thing's at least going to be able to burn out which is a huge win all right guys so as you can see it did a good burnout as evidenced by the smoke still coming from under the hood let's just say papasaurus has never had the exhaust manifold that hot and a little bit of the oil and grits burning off it but you know it's just getting the pipes cleaned out these old trucks they got a lot of carbon buildup and a couple good burnouts gets them right on track for better ring seal and uh you know more fun uh obviously we gotta fix the one tire fire this peg lager although it looks cool on the burnout it's not cool if both tires aren't spinning so i'm embarrassed to say that yes i couldn't get both to go so we're gonna have to put a limited slip in here which is on the docket anyway because this is papasaurus give me a race truck but for now let's actually go get on the dyno and see what these uh power mods did to the performance of the truck and then let's test a couple turbos out while we're there then we'll crank it up for some big power maybe even a new engine thanks guys you

Channel: Power Driven

Views: 644,203

Keywords: Power Driven Diesel, diesel power, cummins, turbo, turbocharger, 12 valve, dinosour power, horsepower, torque, injectors, dyno, boost, big boost, Dodge, gsk, 60#valvesprings, 4kGSK, 500HPFuelPackage, AFCLIVE, mechanicalmafia, YouTubeFeature, DieselDocumentary

Id: 00AQBYH8ZTY

Length: 105min 34sec (6334 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 10 2021