Woodturning Live Edge Bowl – Crotch 2 for 1 Bowls Elm Video

hmm what should we make out of this [Music] hi i'm kent and welcome to turn a wood bowl today i have this piece of drake elm and i've got a crotch section now whenever you're out there looking for wood to turn you're going to always want to try to find these these v branch joints they're really dynamic and what happens inside here is what makes them so interesting there's all kinds of tension where the two branches go in different directions this piece is pretty unique because it's almost symmetrical and it looks pretty good on both sides so what i'm going to try to do and if we're really lucky we're going to make two bowls from this one crotch so let's go ahead and get started okay before we make a cut i really want to be able to visualize exactly where this cut's going to be going right through the center of the crotch i use a marker and i'm looking down on the piece and i can see where it's balanced now one branch is going to be a little bit off centered as far as the pith but that's not going to be a big factor with this so i'm going to draw that line out so i've got a clear idea where this cut is going to be made and i'm going to flip it over and then look down that line again and continue that across the other side trying to get an even amount of material on both sides of this now i'm using a bandsaw for this and i want to make sure that the bottom portion is as tight fitting to the table as possible so i get a good support and i'm not jamming up the bandsaw you want to be super careful with the bandsaw and take your time keep your hands obviously away from the blade now i want to also look at this and make sure that i've got a large enough circle that i can make the bowls that i'm intending to make so i'm using my one of my circle templates to draw on the blank exactly where i'm going to be making a bowl now you want to be super careful make sure you've got a firm grip on this if you're not comfortable keeping that blank steady you're going to want to make a sled to cut that look at the grain inside of this piece already how beautiful is that all right so i'm going to use a template again to find the center for each of these bowl blanks these are going to be live edge bowls so i'm going to try to retain the bark on each one of them but i need to know exactly where to center it so that i don't run off one of the sides accidentally so i'm going to use the four spur drive center here but when i put it up there it wasn't seated flat so i'm gonna take the chisel and chisel out an area and give myself a flat area that i can mount this to the lathe so i've got a good secure connection all right with that flat area created now i can go ahead and mount it the biggest thing with the live edge bowl is making sure that the top edges are balanced and that's why i'm using the drive spur here so that i can take my time and balance these out so i'm just holding my finger in place i'm trying to see which one of these high points is not lined up and i can just loosen the tail stock and make adjustments until everything is well balanced all right i'm using a half inch 55 degree bevel swept back bowl gouge here and i'm just going to start removing material to shape the bottom portion of this bowl what i like to do is work on the corner and just make a nice gentle curve so i'm starting to see the shape of the bowl right away because i took the time to balance out the top edges the bottom portion of this bowl is not balanced and that's okay because we're going to balance that out in just just a few minutes here i have the bowl gouge pointing to the left and i'm just doing a really simple push cut here if the flute being straight up is 12 o'clock i have the bowl gouge oriented at about 10 30. all right so you can see that i'm taking off corners and starting to shape the bottom of this bowl the center portion is unbalanced so i'm going to make a simple face cut across here and level that off so that i can establish the tenon and the shoulder for this just take your time and make light passes here you don't want to get too aggressive because again you've got a a tension mount here between the spur drive center and the tail stock so you don't want to get too aggressive here just take make light cuts and smooth that area off in the center you can see how it's leveled off of one area but i have a low spot below that and if you listen as well you can hear a clicking sound and that is that negative space coming by so you're cutting and then there's nothing and then you're cutting again if you pay attention to what you're hearing as you're turning you'll realize what's happening a lot of times with your cutting ear you're going to get a clicking sound also this wood is wet so you can actually see the areas as being cut is a darker area or darker appearance because it's it's wet compared to the exposed wood we're getting closer to having something in the center there but i still need to take off more material now i'm making a push cut with the bowl gouge flute angled to the right at about one one thirty all right we're getting a pretty good space there now i'm gonna be able to mark with my dividers the tenon i have a video all about how to make tenons you might want to check that out but i mark the area where the tenon will be with dividers and then i continue with a face cut to remove the material around that tenon now i also like to make a shoulder for my tenons that's going to be a flat area that the four jaw chuck can sit right on top of and that tenon area is also really important because it's going to allow me to shape the foot when i'm done with this bowl so it has two purposes and actually has three purposes because it's also going to save us in the event that we somehow remove too much material from the inside of the bowl so i found that adding a shoulder underneath the tendon is super valuable and very helpful for design purposes and for practicality say okay so now that i have the tenon and the shoulder shaped i have a defined area so what i really want to do is i want that area at the bottom of the shoulder to have a nice flowing curve that goes all the way to the top wings of each of those branch sections so i just need to remove that material and work on the curve of the bottom of the bowl you can see i'm climbing up those extended sections but i need to make it all the way to the top of each one of those before i've i've reached the top edge of the bowl and then i need to connect that curve with the shoulder that we just created all right now i'm going to use a little bit unconventional cut here this is going against the supported grain if you're not familiar with a supported grain cut is i also have a video on that you might want to check that out it's really important however i'm actually cutting against the grain now why would i do that the reason i'm doing that here is i'm trying to establish the top edge of the bowl and i don't want to tear apart the bark i want to try to keep that bark on the piece so by making the cut in this direction i'm actually pushing the bark onto the wood as opposed to the opposite direction where i'd be pushing it off of the wood and obviously i don't want to tear the bark off so this cut is made for the sole purpose of retaining the bark on the top edge of those wings so what i'm doing kind of like what i did with establishing the tenon and the shoulder i'm establishing the top edge rim of the bowl and what i really need to do simply is remove the material between the two here i'm using a pulling scraping cut with the left wing of the bowl gouge to remove that material and to start shaping that curve and make a really nice smooth flowing curve from rim to rim across the bottom of the bowl now you can see the shavings coming off of this are fairly large that gives you a good indication that this is a scraping cut and i'm also what you can't see here is i've got the tool pretty much horizontal at this point so it's a relatively aggressive cut and this is designed for removing material quickly all right we're getting close we've got a nice curve starting to form there and we're getting close to the top wings but i'm still not at to the top of those wings yet and i know that i'm gonna have to remove more of this material so i'm just gonna go ahead and take some of this out right now what i'm looking for is a curve so when i look at the profile this bull you're going to see one smooth curve there's not going to be any bumps in it or any ridges or any high spots or low spots i just want one small or one fluid curve through the profile of this bowl i'm going to go back up to those those wing tips and i'm going to take off a little bit more now because we're cutting air here and we're cutting wings you're going to hear that clicking sound because it's cutting and then it's not cutting then it's cutting i have to be very careful that i'm not pushing into the bowl because the bowl is going to give me no guidance whatsoever and you really don't want to be pushing into the surface you're cutting so what i'm doing is i'm applying down pressure on the tool rest and using the tool rest only as my guide i'm lining that tool rest up with the same angle of the cut that i want to make i'm pressing down into the tool rest and then i'm just shifting my body weight so i'm making a very smooth pass along the tool rest it just happens to be in the same path that there's wood coming by so the point i'm trying to make is really make sure you're making a very deliberate smooth pass on the tool rests and because of that you're going to get a nice smooth cut on the bowl itself so again i'm just you want to take your time with this i've said this before and it's so important the exterior of the bowl is the bowl what does that mean well if you think about it everything we're going to do after the shaping exterior shaping the interior is just going to match that and when somebody sees the shape of a bowl they're looking at the exterior of the bowl so take your time with the exterior and get it right and the bowl look fantastic and when you have the exterior done i've almost got those tips up to the the highest point there you see that little flat spot from the original cut i want to remove that so i'm going to just nibble off a very small amount here and then we'll take another look see i'm trying to blend that transition to the bottom all right that that wing looks great that wings not quite there and that wings almost there all right so just a little bit more and i'm looking straight down at the bull gouge bevel and lining that up with the previous cut and then just inserting it a millimeter at the most now i can also see that i'm making a hump down here because the more material i move from removed from the wings the more that it's changing the shape of this exterior so i'm going to remove this hump with a scraping cut here so that i have a nice fluid curve to the bowl again see those larger shavings it's giving you an indication this is an aggressive cut that's taking away material quickly you just have to open the basically present the flute to the bowl and open the top wing a little bit and pull back [Music] all right so that wing is taken care of that wing not quite and that one's really close but there's still a little bit of flat edge there we can fix that with a with a little shear scrape first i'm going to use a scraping cut now this is kind of a blend you can see that the handle is slightly dropped there so that's almost a sheer scrape but not quite this is more of a scraping cut and you can also look at the shavings coming off there's a lot of large shavings coming off that's a that's a scraping cut that's not a sheer scrape now when i drop the handle and i change the angle of that lower wing this becomes a shear scrape now this is a refining cut what this is designed to do is to refine the surface of this take off any tool marks or any rough spots and leave a really smooth finish you can also see that the shavings coming off are much finer and smaller it's a good idea to stop and check as you progress also look that i have the tool rest at about 90 degrees to the tool this is not a typical push cut support for the tool rest but this instead supports the bowl gouge really well for scraping cuts and for shear scrapes now i went back into this with more of an aggressive shear scrape because i'm seeing a high spot there that i'm not liking and i really want that curve to be right so again with the exterior of the bowl take your time and get it right what i'm looking at here is the full shape of the bottom of the bowl from my vantage point looking down on that i'm not looking at just the the tool area where i'm working i'm looking at the full shape and the full curve of this bowl and i want that to be a smooth curve now here i'm using a shear scrape you can see the lighter shavings coming off and you can see that i have the handle dropped this is just to smooth off the surface when you do this the shear scrape well you can leave the surface so smooth that you barely need to sand it you can start at 180 grit or even 220 or 240 grit because the surface is so smooth i have a video all about shear scraping you might want to check that out because it is a great technique to use especially with the swept back bowl gouge all right the shape is looking really good you can see there's a little flat spot there by the shoulder that needs to be addressed so i'm going to blend that transition area from that flat spot to the curve of the bowl using a gentle shear scrape here it's kind of a combination between a scrape a pure scrape is about a horizontal position and a shear scrape is the tool is at about a 45 degree position with the handle down on your hip and it's more of a shear scrape is more of like a shaving versus a cut this is a this is a scrape cut right here that's the one thing i love about the swept back bowl gouge and it's why it's my preferred bowl gouge is because it can do essentially four cuts you've got a push cut a pull cut you've got a scraping cut and a shear scraping cut and between those four you can do pretty much anything all right now i'm going to use my 3 8 inch spindle detail gouge to shape the dovetail of the tenon just going to take my time and put a slight angle and there's about a 10 11 degree angle and i want to make sure that that shoulder is nice and smooth because that's what's going to be receiving the top of the four jaw chucks or the top of the jaws rather and you want to make sure the inside bottom corner of that dovetail is nice and clean so that the jaws can grip it firmly and not have any obstruction okay so there's the exterior shape of the first bowl and before i go and reverse that i'm going to take the next bull blank and i'm going to repeat this process the cool thing about doing this this way instead of going through and making one bowl completely and then coming back and making another one is you're saving a little bit of time i've got everything set up and i basically can repeat that exterior process with this bowl pretty quickly here again i'm lining up the the top edges of the bowl i'm loosening the tail stock to make a very minor adjustments but what i'm trying to do is get the tops of each one of those pieces to be lined up so when this bowl is finished each of the top wings has the same height off of the tabletop spending a little time here will have very positive effects on the overall bowl i really want to tighten that tail stock up because we've got wet wood here and as i turn i'm going to continue to tighten that tail stock because the four spur drive center and the tail stock are going to continue to dig into that wet wood so we need to continuously tighten them up if i don't tighten them up those fittings or those connections can become loose so i'm going to work the outside corners of this piece i'm using the 55 degree bevel swept back bowl gouge here if you want to learn how to make your own swept back bowl gouge and mine is 55 degrees and if you want to do a different angle on the the nose of that you can i have a tool sharpening online e-course that will explain and give you great detail exactly how to shape and sharpen your bowl gouge to any profile that you want and it's a great course that covers a lot of detail you might want to check it out you can actually go to turn a wood bowl dot com forward slash sharp to check out that course all right i'm making just a simple push cut here now if you remember though if i continue making the exterior of this bowl and i keep using this push cut in this direction what will happen if i get to the top of those wings is i will just blow out all of that bark and it'll just tear it right off and i'm going to have a real nasty edge up on the top of those wings and that's why in just a minute i'm going to reverse that cut so that we keep that bark on there i can make that curve a little bit in that direction and take it up there for a little ways but i don't want to go all the way to the top because i definitely will see damage to that bark edge okay so i'm making simple face cuts here to flatten out the bottom of the bowl and this is a push cut with the bowl gouge bevel riding the bevel and having it essentially on center i'm going to go ahead and mark for the tenon and we'll continue with those face cuts to remove the material around the tenon and the shoulder i've got the flute angled at about one o'clock here just pointing in the direction that i'm making the cut with the bevel riding the bevel on the surface if you want to learn more about riding the bevel i have a video all about riding the bevel this is drake elm it's a really pretty wood it has a great colored heart in the center of it it's just it's a really nice wood to turn it's a very solid wood especially when it's green like this it cuts very nicely and i've actually had really good luck with um using the pith or keeping the pith in the piece and the pith will have a little minor cracks perhaps but nothing where it splits the piece in half and every tree species is different that way some tree species you really don't want to leave the pith in it because it's going to tear the piece apart after it continues drying but with the drake elm that i'm turning here i've found really good luck leaving the pith area in there and it's hasn't been too detrimental to the piece in the long run all right so the tenon and the shoulder are established i'm going to make just simple push cuts here to establish the curve and shape of the bowl for a little bit and then i'm going to reverse my cut and shape those tips of the wing the neat thing to be about doing multiple bowls together like this in a kind of a production line is you'll get really good at the different aspects of turning if you turn the bottom and shape the bottom of several bowls all at once you're going to see your skills improve dramatically in that area okay so here again i'm using an unsupported grain cut which is somewhat unconventional but the purpose is to keep that bark in place on the tips of those side wings and what i'm going to do is i'm going to establish the top edge of the bowl and i've already have the bottom edge of the bowl established with the tenon and the shoulder and then i just have to merge that curve between the two i've got a really big nasty cut mark there from the chainsaw this is one of those things where when you're preparing your wood you really want to be careful not to take away too much material because you're going to be left with a situation here where you've got to remove more on the lathe than you really want to i've got to cut that top wing down quite a bit so that i can remove that cut mark that was that was made with a chainsaw here i'm using a pulling scraping cut to remove some of that bulk so i can see the curve of the bottom of the bowl and what i'm doing is i'm just holding the bowl gouge up against my body nice and firm pushing down on the tool rest with my left hand and just shifting my body weight here is the same exact process except i'm going in the opposite direction i'm just shifting my body weight leaning forward into this cut let's look at these corners i've got a one corner is good two corners are good that one's got a big cut mark in it still so we've gotta remove a lot of extra material if that cut mark weren't in there i would be able to make this bowl larger than it is however i'm going to need to reduce this curve and the exterior of the bowl quite a bit to accommodate that what i really don't want is i don't want to have sides on this bowl that are vertical and drop down and then there's an angle in the bowl and then there's kind of a flat bottom to the bowl i want a nice fluid curve across the shape of this bowl so if you put this on the table top and you get down and you look at the side profile profile of this bowl it should be a really nice smooth flowing curve across the bottom actually it should be a small portion of a large circle is what you really want so there's no kind of are no other bumps or curves in that shape it's just a nice smooth flowing curve so i'm transitioning here from removing material in that curve area and then taking the top wing down just a bit to remove that material on the one wing that's got the cut mark on it so it's a push cut here and then i was using a pull cut to remove the bulk of the material in that curve still got a little edge there if you're liking this video so far do me a huge favor and click that like button below the screen yeah the little thumbs up go ahead and click that for me i greatly appreciate it thank you okay i still need to take that edge down so this is the almost my vantage point of what i'm looking at i'm looking straight down on the piece when i'm making that cut there's just a touch there that's looking really good but now i have the curve is a little bit bumpy so i need to take some of the high spot off of that curve i want to be careful in the wing area because this is a little bit delicate as far as getting a catch or tearing up some of that bark we don't want to damage any of that so i'm making a really light shear scrape here a shear scrape is with the handle drop down the tools at about a 45 degree angle now over here is a little bit more meat and i'm making a scraping cut and this is i've got the this is funny because i have the bowl gouge down a little bit of an angle so it's kind of like a blend this is between a halfway between a shear scrape and a scraping cut and the more i'm pushing that wing into the bowl the more aggressive the cut becomes and i'm doing this to shape that curve all right everything's looking good there i'm going to bring this the spindle detail gouge back and shape the tenon now the angle of the dovetails on my four jaw chuck are about 11 degrees and it sounds really precise but after you've made a couple of these you can kind of eyeball it it's just a slight inward push cut on the side of that tenon and then i want to clean up that shoulder make sure that shoulder's nice and flat and now we have two bowls that have the exteriors complete the tenons created and shoulders created as well so now we can move on to the next step which is going to be removing the interior of the bowls that's the profile profile i'm looking for a really nice smooth curve on the exterior of the bowls all right with the four jaw chuck installed now i'm going to mount one bowl and start removing the interior [Music] this is an important step right there make sure you turn the piece by hand first to make sure there's no contact with the tool rest because you've got these extending wings that are pretty delicate you can really tear them up quickly if there's a contact there and you're smacking the tool rest you want to take your time and make sure that just kind of get in the habit of spinning the bowl blank and make sure it clears everything before you start the lathe okay so i'm removing a little bit of the material in the middle of this just to balance it out so it's turning well and then i can get the lathe speed up a little bit faster and then i'm working the outside edge first i do not want to remove the interior first now why would i want to do that well we'll talk about that in a second first i really need my tools to be sharp so i'm going to go to the sharpening station and sharpen my bowl gouge again be sure to check out my tool sharpening online e-course you can go to turnawoodbowl.com forward slash sharp and you can learn all about how to sharpen and also shape your tools the way you want them in the way that works best for you the sharpening process does not take long once you understand it and you have everything set up it's a very quick process to go over to the sharpening station and sharpen your bowl gouge but you really want to make sure that tool is sharp throughout your turning and especially when you're making final cuts like this inside wall thickness for this bowl now what i'm looking at here this is pretty much the way that you're going to view this you want to stand upright and look down on the piece and i'm matching the the bevel of the bowl gouge with the exterior of the bowl i want those two areas to be parallel with one another and i'm just making very light cuts and i'm working one area of the bowl first and then i'll work down into the bowl use your fingers to determine the thickness of that bowl and then keep working it so i could tell there that the wall thickness is good but it's going from thin at the very edge to a little bit thicker so i know that i need to take down a little bit more area to thin out the piece so what i do is i kind of work out a little channel there so that i can get some more material out and i'll pick up the cut and work down to that already determined wall thickness you can almost see there how it's getting thicker you can feel that with your hands so what i need to do is i need to go back and i need to take off a little more material and make sure that that wall thickness is even i'm just making a really light cut here and removing the material and bringing it down so now we've got a nice even wall thickness your fingers are very sensitive and if you pay attention you can you can feel that change in thickness very easily okay so now i'm using a push cut with the flute angled to the left at about 10 30 and i'm making this kind of like a scraping cut that's removing material it's actually more of a push cut but it's removing material from that center now why do we want to leave that entire center there that's a that's a really important aspect of turning a winged bowl or a live edge bowl or a natural edge bowl for that matter that center creates a mass that helps hold and stabilize the entire bowl if we had worked from the inside out by the time we get to a really thin walled piece like this especially with green wood it's going to be vibrating like crazy and you're not going to get a smooth cut on the exterior of the walls however with that mass in the center right now those small protruding side wings are very stable because of that center mass so we're only working down small areas at a time so i'm working down maybe an inch inch and a half maybe like a two to three centimeters space at a time of that wall and once i've established that wall thickness and made that wall continuously even i don't go back up the wall and don't return to it because the more of that center that gets removed the more those wings and side walls are going to vibrate and you're not going to be able to get a smooth cut on it so again i'm checking that thickness and then once i'm comfortable that the thickness is consistent on the area that i just turned i'll remove more material from the center and work the next section of the wall but you want to keep that center mass in there to help support and stabilize your turning right down to the very end when you're done with the bowl all right i'm feeling a little bit of thickness there so i'm going to do a really light cut here i have the flute very open it's probably about a 12 30 position sometimes almost 12 o'clock now if you were to do that cut and have that bull gouge in that position and you were to get a catch you're probably going to knock the bowl off the lathe because it's going to be pretty dramatic only use a very open cut like that when you are making a very fine finishing cut never do that in any other circumstance because it can lead to a lot of problems okay so the wall thickness is pretty even all the way throughout and i just have the center bottom portion to do here at this point i can basically take away that entire center mass just by using simple face cuts across here i want to remember to not push through that center if i push through the center i have run the risk of tearing out in grain or wood grain rather and leaving a hole in the middle of the bottom of the bowl and we obviously don't want that i've got a video all about how to turn the centers of your bowls and how to remove the interior of your bowl you're going to want to check that out i'll put a link up the book for that okay everything's looking good there and take this off and we're going to put on the next one the nice thing again about doing this process and doing multiple pieces at the same time is everything's already set up we already have the chuck in the lathe where i have the tool rest there so it's a matter of just putting it on and picking up right where you left off and the really great thing is it's excellent practice because you've got you just did this so now you're gonna repeat that and you're gonna you're gonna pick up skills and you're gonna do things a little bit better the second time each time you do multiple pieces so i'm just working down to that wall thickness starting on the outer edge very light cuts and again i'm matching the bevel of the bowl gouge to the exterior of the bowl that way i'll know i have a parallel wall that's going to be evenly thick if you're not watching where your bowl gouge is in relationships to the exterior of the bowl that's when you run into trouble and you go through the side walls or you have walls that are thick and thin and have issues so you really want to orient yourself above the bowl blank look down on it and and make sure that you're paralleling the exterior of the bowl again the exterior of the bowl is the bowl remember that just making a really light pass here even that out [Music] all right so that looks good and i'm going to take some more of that center down and then we'll work the next section you just want to work down this the side wall and make the wall thickness even a little bit at a time and don't go back up the sidewall if you were to go back up the sidewall and go up to the tip of it like right now if i were to try to work those edges you're going to hear a really nasty clicking sound because those different wings even with the center mass in there right now the very tip of those of the bull edge are vibrating enough that they're you're just going to smack it and you're going to get really dramatic tool marks in there as well from that so i take the center down a little bit there's still a large mass in there even at a lower level the nice thing about doing that with the left wing and then using the right wing with the push cut it also wears evenly on your bowl gouge you want to be sharpening both sides of your bowl gouge and you want your bowl gouge to be balanced when you're sharpening it and if you're using everything with one side if you're cutting everything with one side of your bowl gouge you're going to be kind of wasting the material on the other side the nice thing about this technique is you're using both wings of that evenly both of them need to be sharpened and they kind of wear evenly now here there's a little bit of a high spot or an edge and i really want to make sure that i hit that and i don't add to any more trouble i don't want to go too deep in another area and make it thinner than normal so i want to mark that area so i can clearly see it and just make a really light pass that takes care of that that little high spot and i'm feeling another one right here so i'm going to go ahead and mark that take your time and mark it with the pencil that's going to show up really well when the lathe is turned on all right there we can see that pencil mark and i just need to make a very light cut i have the bowl gouge open at 12 o'clock here very dangerous position you just want to make sure you're making a super light cut when you have the bowl gouge in that position and that's it nice and smooth all right so we can continue moving removing some of the center and working down the interior of the bowl there you can see i was using the left side of the bowl gouge now i'm using the right side of the bowl gouge it just adds for or makes for even wear on the bowl gouge which is nice now the reason we slow down in the center is because that center is rotating slower than the rest of the mass of the bowl if you want to learn more about that check out my video on the wood lathe speed and basically i explain in there why that center is moving slower than the rest of the bowl but it's turning slower and requires you to change your pace and make it slower as well if you don't slow down the pace and you just push through the center of that you're going to tear out fibers and damage the inside center of that bowl so i need another pass here to make a nice finishing cut very smooth shallow cut and again i'm going to slow down right there and just let the tool make the cut all right that looks good so now i'm going to move through the sanding process with the open wings of this it's it's better to sand with the stand their lathe off and work those edges i'm working off i'm starting with the 180 grit here and what i'm trying to do is take off any tool marks that i'm seeing but i'm using the side of the sander the sanding pad and lining it up with the grain of the wood so i don't get scratch marks in the wood and i'll do that with both the front and the back now i'm starting at 180 i'll go to 240 and then i'll go to 320 to sand both of these bulb blanks now i will turn the lathe on to work kind of the mass of the center but i'm not going across the very middle of that if you go across the middle of that you're going to make an extra divot and i explain all the details that in my sanding video you're going to want to go check that out instead of going across the center with the lathe on you go across and clean up the center with the lathe off and i'm only rubbing with the right side of this sanding pad and i'm attempting to line that up the best i can with the grain of the wood so i don't make extra scratches okay so with both of the bulb blanks sanded i'm going to change out this chuck because i'm going to fit in a jam chuck jamb chucks are a great way to remove the tenon from the bulls i've got a video all about jam chucks you need to check that one out as as well if you're new to my channel go check out my videos because i got a ton of videos that show a lot of these details and you can learn quite a bit from from those videos all right i'm using a piece of foam here to pad that and then i'm lining up the tail mark tail stock mark on the bottom which was made originally when we first started and that's going to orient everything and we'll have a nice smooth rotation here so i'm going to take the with the bowl gouge i'm going to make a push cut in towards the headstock to remove the tenon the push cut towards the headstock is really good here because it's basically reinforcing the support of the of the mount of this piece right into the right into the headstock if we make a lot of pushing cuts or face cuts across that there's a chance you can dislodge this from its mound now i'm scooping out a little bit of the inside bottom of the foot because i want the edges of the foot to touch the table top but not the center i don't want it to wobble there now i've switched to my 3 8 inch spindle detail gouge and i'm going to continue shaping the inside scooped out portion of this foot and then i'm going to start reducing this little nub that is holding on to the tail stock just making an angled push cut in towards the headstock and nibbling this down now if you're not comfortable doing this you can stop right here you can cut that off with a knife or a small saw or you can sand it down but what i like to do is i like to come in here and just make a cut across here and then rotate the spindle detail gouge into that little v-shaped nub and sever it off and i'm pushing in now and i'm going to power off the lathe and i'm going to turn this by hand and it's going to cut through those fibers and remove that little nub i'll still have a small little portion there that i need to sand off but it's really easy to deal with now we'll get the next bowl and we'll do the same process i think you can see here now how nice it is to do multiple pieces at the same time but in the process of doing each step together i didn't have to rearrange anything or set anything up it was all there for me basically just pop it in there and remove the tenon with the push cuts just like we did the previous one make a little scooping cut here to make sure that those feet touch the table and not the center of the foot and then we'll switch over to 3 8 3 8 inch spindle detail gouge these are very light cuts that are making here and then we go into just really light angled cuts to reduce that nub down obviously take your time here you don't want to be rushing this and i also have the lathe speed turned down quite a bit i'm not going very fast with this if you're curious about what my lathe speed is i don't know and i don't have an rpm readout and that's actually a good thing again check out my video on the lathe speed okay so now we've got both the pieces completely turned we need to do a little finish sanding on the nubs on the bottom and we'll go ahead and wrap these up how cool is that all right i'm just using a little two inch foam mandrel sanding pad here to take off that nub area in the bottom you really want to be careful not to not to bump into the the foot ring around there because this will it'll take a notch out of it very quick now i use a wood burner to sign my bowls i like to take my time and make a really nice signature on these and it's interesting because the tip and the temperature will vary based on the wood species this wood is very wet so it's taking a very high temperature and i'm using my chisel tip here to make these make the signature all right now i'm going to move over to one of my favorite finishes here this is tried and true brand danish oil now danish oil is linseed oil and in the case of the tried and true brand this is only linseed oil i can't emphasize that enough this is a polymerized i can never pronounce that properly i think it's polymerized poly polymerized you guys can correct me in the comments i'm sure polymerized polymerized i think is how it's pronounced but basically it's not boiled in linseed oil and it's not there's no chemicals in it there's no metals there's nothing it's just pure linseed oil danish oil it's very natural it's the best on the market that i've found i love it if you want to check it out go to my website and look at recommended equipment and then go into the finishing section and you can see both this danish oil and the tried and true original finish which has the danish or linseed oil and beeswax i love both of those finishes look how beautiful this piece turned out or these pieces turned out look at that you have two mirrored matching pieces from one crotch section of of drake elm this is fantastic i'm just very very thrilled to get two pieces out of that one chunk of wood so there you have it there's actually two bulls that were hiding inside that piece of crotch wood now you never know what you're getting into when you're turning a piece of crotch wood usually there's something really interesting in there and it usually has something to do with the dynamic patterns and the tensions that were inside that wood as it was growing now this particular piece was cut right in half we made two bowl blanks out of it i could have taken the entire piece and turned one deeper bowl that would have gone through the pith area i've turned some of this drake elm in the past and i know for a fact that the pith is pretty tolerant as far as not cracking now some trees and some species aren't that great for leaving the pith inside the bowl so you're going to want to experiment on the wood that you have available to you locally and experimentation is the best way to know what's going to work for you but for this particular piece with a split in half there's no pith in the center of it and we've got two beautiful bowls that are going to be able to live on for a very very long time i hope you've liked this video if you have liked this video do me a huge favor and click that like button below the screen a little thumbs up go ahead and click that for me i would greatly appreciate that it helps my channel it helps everything out all right guys thank you so much for watching and if you've got any questions or if you'd like to leave a comment please leave a comment below and until next time happy turning [Music] you

Channel: Turn A Wood Bowl

Views: 147,849

Rating: 4.9181175 out of 5

Keywords: Woodturning Live Edge Bowl – Crotch 2 for 1 Bowls Elm, woodturning live edge bowl, crotch turning, crotch, live edge bowl turning, live edge, natural edge, woodturning, Turn a wood bowl, wood bowl, wood turning, woodturning bowl, woodturning log to bowl, woodturning videos, bowl turning basics, woodturning for beginners, woodturning log, wood bowl lathe, wood bowl turning, natural edge bowl, woodworking for beginners, wood turning log into bowl, Wood turning project

Id: bw1334yUc6I

Length: 50min 31sec (3031 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 06 2021