How to Carve a Wooden Bowl

[Music] so [Music] do [Music] all right today we're going to be carving us a proper bowl this is the piece of wood we're going to be using and there's a little bit to explain so the best way to do that is to get right into it let's do that this log right here is where we're going to get our piece of carving wood from this is a piece of sycamore we have chosen this piece of wood for a few reasons one is because it's a big nice piece of wood the other is because it's really clear there's no knots in it and the next reason is because it's sycamore so it's a lighter wood and you'll be able to see our layout marks our pencil marks on there uh we're often carbon walnut and it's really difficult to see the pencil lines especially for making a video so anyways let's get back to the more important things here so to get our bowl blank out of this log what we're going to do is we're going to cut off about like a four or five inch section off of that end to make sure we get rid of any checks that may have occurred while it was drying from the end where i get back here and select a good piece with no no knots or anything that's what we're looking for to carve a bowl a nice clear piece no knots knots will give you a really neat looking grain in your bowl but it'll make it really difficult to carve the entire time so we're gonna look for a clear piece with no knots and another reason why we are using this piece is because it's green when you're hand carving anything like i'll say in all our carving videos you're better off to carve green wood you can carve dry wood but it's just way harder and and when you're carving by hand you need all the advantage you can get so to start with a piece of green wood is way better anyways let's get down to it let's go ahead and cut this piece out and see what we can find [Music] so we've got our piece of wood cut out here and we're going to get our bowl blank cut out of one side of this when you cut any piece of wood you have the center of the tree and the center of the tree has like pithy like core and it also will have checks that are just in the tree every tree's got the checks and this check right here is really long this way and that's why we have positioned it going vertical straight up and down because we want to select our ball blank off of one side you never want to leave the center of the wood the heart of the tree in any of your work always stay way away from the center because there's pith and there's checks and stuff so we're going to select our piece over here what we're going to do is we're going to take this level and we're going to make two parallel lines over here and that's going to be our ball blank so i am making these lines to help you be more successful when you cut out your bowl blank but when i do it i don't necessarily make these lines because i can just eyeball it pretty quickly but if you do cut your bowl blank really accurate it's sli it saves a lot of time in the planing it later and i'll show you you'll understand here in a minute what i'm talking about now i'm going to make the same lines on this end of the log and that's why it's crucial to use a level so you don't have one set of marks going this way and the other set going like that so using a level is is really good so these two marks right here i have them three and a half inches apart that's going to be a pretty deep bowl it doesn't seem like it when you hear three and a half inches but it is a pretty deep bowl so i marked the marks here and on the other side and now it's pretty much just connect the dots with the chainsaw and that's going to be our bowl blank now i have an advantage of having this 36 inch bar right here but you can do it with a much smaller one you know a 16 or a 20 or something like that it'll do you just have to take more time to cut it out but anyways let's go ahead and cut into it [Music] [Laughter] [Music] so you'll notice i didn't make either cut all the way through because if you just make one cut all the way through you lose your ability to chalk your log up and your log tries to fall over so if you make them almost all the way through then you stop you make the next one almost all the way through you can just finish them up really quickly and your log will stay stable while you're finishing up your work so here's our bowl blank it's just roughed out right now you don't want to start carving yet because the chainsaw does a pretty rough job so what we're going to do is we're going to take a power hand planer and then we're going to surface it out and parallel it up really really good and we'll start from there so let's start playing [Music] so when you're planting the top surface of your blank it's very important to cite it and make sure that you are getting uh all the propeller twist out of it you want it you don't just want it smooth you need it flat and you can't have it crowned or dipping it needs to be exactly flat in all directions so you kind of keep one siding it and making sure that's what you're doing a good way to do that is to plane diagonally this way and diagonally this way and that that has a tendency to kind of just naturally level things out really really flat so yeah keep sighting it and make sure you're getting flat so now that we have the top surface of our bowl blank exactly flat now it's time to surface out the bottom of it right here so the chainsaw doesn't cut that accurate even if you're really skilled at using it it still doesn't cut that accurate so once i get the top surface of my bowl blank surfaced out it's really important to get the bottom of it exactly parallel you don't want it like this or like this in any way you want it exactly parallel because that's going to be the bottom of the bowl and this is going to be the top of the bowl so when you set your bowl there you don't want to be like second guessing be like my bowl even sitting straight now you want to know that that thing is sitting exactly straight and so in this form right here is the easiest way to actually control the way that ball is going to sit and so what i do is after i get the top surface exactly flat i kind of just match the bottom to it by making a few parallel lines here and one over there and then i just plain to those lines let's make those lines and start planing so i got my little t-square here you can do it however which way you want to do it but this t-square works well you can see that makes that matches that exactly perfect and we'll flip it over and do the same thing to the other side so we have a considerable amount of wood to plane off you can see how inaccurate we are there and so now we just kind of flip it over and plane that down we'll be ready to lay it out [Music] so we have our ball blank all prepared it's exactly parallel top and bottom absolutely flat perfect ready to go so we're not going to waste any of our energy wondering is our bowl sitting flat or not now we know it's sitting flat because we took the time to establish that properly in this stage so there's another thing i think often people think of carving a ball like something i might try to carve a bowl this month or something like that and that's a lot of bowls get carved that way but we carve a bowl almost every day because we have to do it for a living otherwise we'll starve to death so so this is a slightly different perspective on carving a bowl anyways but if you don't carve your bowl in one sitting it it can cause problems so if you start carving a bowl and you think well i didn't get it all the way down i'll wait till tomorrow put it in a plastic bag and seal it up and then it won't dry out on you but if you just let it sit there and think you're going to come back tomorrow and kind of continue the project that won't work because it will dry out and it'll check on the ends and all of your effort will be wasted so if it's going to take you more than one day to carve it put it in a bag when you're not working on it to prevent it from drying out because that drying out is going to definitely cause problems anyways let's go ahead and start the layout on this thing so we can get to chopping so if you've watched any of our other videos you'll know that we don't like doing things that we don't understand that is kind of something that's unavoidable at times but it's better off if you take the time to sort of think about and understand what it is you do so we're going to take some time to lay this thing out right that way we are not going through the process second guessing our every move it's going to be hard enough to remove this much wood by hand as it is and so if with every chop we're also wondering is this right have i gone too far i don't know what's happening i don't know that's a waste of energy so we need to put these marks our layout on here exactly right so we can direct our energy right to the line every time without second guessing every stroke because that can cost a lot of time and a lot of confusion there's no sense in doing that so let's go ahead and put a proper layout on here so we have confidence to approach it properly so we're going to start by making us a center line you always want to start from center that way both sides of your whatever you're making your product is the same this bowl is going to be an oval now laying out an oval is uh is a bit of a trick in itself so this this will be neat to see so i made a center line that way and a center line this way so we're going to start laying out an oval on the top here a proper geometric oval not a guess this is going to be how an oval is laid out so we make a center mark and then i'll come back in from the end right here making half inch marks and i made one two three four five of them so i'm going to make five over here one two three four five okay now over here i've got my string and some finished nails so i'm going to guess which one of these i need and you're almost always wrong on this guess i'm going to try to i'm going to kind of rush through this i'm not going to explain it all the way so i came two in here and two in here we're just going to see if that's right and if it's not right no big deal we'll just we'll move another one in another one out but one thing that's kind of crucial is whenever you are going to lay out an oval with a string you need to sharpen your pencil right and uh i don't know if you can see that you can see how i made the point right there that i carved this notch over here that's important because that notch is going to ride on the string so let's see how closely we guessed where uh okay we're not that close you can see we're way out there so i'm gonna move in two marks i moved in two marks there and then i'll need to tighten up my string here a little bit i don't want to go all the way to the edge because it's pretty thin there but in this sycamore you can go pretty close to the edge let me go tighten up just a little bit more here i'm gonna tighten up just a hair okay now i think we have our string set that string goes all the way to the end and it goes to the edge where we want right here so we're going to start marking and that string is going to control that oval you can see that really nice flow coming out of there and you can see it riding on that notch that we put in our pencil if you don't put that notch in there sometimes your string will jump off and it will just be lame so to make that notch is definitely the way to go i'll connect over there you can see look at that nice oval coming out of there that's that's not guesswork that's exactly perfect and uh i want to make that nice and dark so i can see it and so you can see it on the camera so that's how to lay out a proper oval that is the top shape of our bowl now we just need to transfer this down on the side and lay out the bottom and we are transferring this line down on both sides because we want the bottom of our bowl to be centered up on the top of our bowl and we don't want to be sitting there guessing just eyeballing it that's that's a waste of time and a waste of energy so we have an exact center and you have to square down from the top you can't just center up here you have to square down from the top and also you can't just mark a center here because these end cuts are out of 90. these end cuts right here are not proper 90 they're they're pretty close but they're not enough to measure off of that bottom corner to get centered so what you have to do is you have to put the square on there because sometimes the cut will be like this and sometimes it'll be like that but you have to you have to check with the square from the top and and see where center is on the top and and then you want to flip it back over and go from the same spot and you can see if we had to just measured from the bottom our our that is well it's only about an eighth of an inch off so that wouldn't have been that drastic but sometimes it's way more you can see it's hitting down here not there so we would have been about you know a quarter inch off center on the bottom that's not that good but this way you're not a quarter inch off you're exactly dead on and that's where you always want to be is exactly that on so once we get the center mark now again we're going to put these half inch marks because we're going to lay out an oval on the bottom of here and i'm going to eyeball roughly two inches off either side so a four inch base you can make that however you want to on your bowl now i'm going to put these nails back in here you don't want to drive these in deep because this is the bottom of your bowl if you're driving in deep you're going to you're going to damage your product here just barely tap them in just barely and get back over here and a lot of this is kind of guess work on how big you want the bottom of your bowl to be that's that's up to you and so what i'll do is i'll make my first line without putting a lot of wasted time in it because i'm trying to practice making decisions and i'm not trying to fortify my ability to take forever and not make decisions so i kind of want to shoot from the hip on that now this right here in in my my mind right here it looks a little small to me so that's that's not no no big deal i'm just going to make it bigger and uh now this is definitely more proportionate oh i got off right there sorry about that should have been paying attention this is a live take you can see so yeah so no big deal i just i just make my lines bigger here and uh and when i carve the bottom of the bowl this is going to be a valuable line anyways because i i need that to dish out the bottom and i'll go right to that line so these lines right here look good to me this is going to give us a nice a nice graceful flow so the next step is to start chopping so this is kind of important you can mess up your chopping block if you don't do this so this bark right here is filled with sand and dirt and stuff like we drug these logs up out of the ditch it's uh we it's on another one of our videos if you look up uh the tractor riding a wheelie video you can see us actually getting this log so anyways but we drug it up out of the ditch and down the road and so logs just always have sand in the bark so you don't want to chop this bark off on your chopping block otherwise all that sand goes down in your chopping block and every time you overrun a stroke you hit that chopping block filled with sand and it deteriorates your edge on your hatchet or your ads immediately so that is you don't want to do that you want to keep your chopping block as sand free as possible so i have a designated hatchet that we can cut the bark with and keep all the sand over here on the floor and not around our really sharp tools so we have the bowl laid out and we're ready to start chopping how we're going to start roughing out the bowl is with a hatchet now we have two real nice ones over here that we have forged those are the ones we're going to be using but i also have a fiskars hatchet over here and i'm just showing you the fiskars because this is a really good hatchet and if you don't have one you should go get one and i also don't want you to think i don't have a really nice super carbon hatchet i'm out of the game that's not true you can go get one of these for 26 bucks and you're right back in the game these are good hatchets you should get one anyways these two hatchets are not exactly the same one's a little heavier one's a little lighter and the bevel is blah blah blah a little different too so the one i'm selecting is the heavier one with a slightly aggressive bevel because we're going to do some serious rough out and we need the wood to want to split back and remove really really quickly so i'm selecting the heavier of the two with a slightly more aggressive bevel let's go ahead and start chopping so throughout this whole video you're going to see that we are doing that score and remove technique that works really good if you were just to start at the top and and commence the chop in your hatchet would be stuck every time these big splits would never remove and it would just be a terrible waste of energy another thing we're doing is we're we're practicing our ability to cite we want we want to go to the site and this is in the roughout stage but we're still developing these site ridges right here and we're developing our ability and we're getting confident with our ability to get these nice smooth flows in this rough consequence-free environment because if you can't get the nice flow in the rough stage chances are you're not going to be able to get the nice flow when it really matters when you're down to the mark so in this beginning stage always take time to really work on getting that nice smooth flow so when you really need it you have the ability when you are removing a lot of wood on a big blank like this one what you never want to do is go one on one with the wood ultimately we're trying to get it down to this profile but if we just started right here and started chopping we'd be facing three and a half inches plus of wood all the way around there that would be really really hard and so we're trying to reduce it down to a thinner edge that's much easier to move and that's what we're always trying to do is reduce it down to where when you make that control line you're not moving three and a half inches of wood at one time you only have like a half inch to move much easier that way now you'll notice these big pieces splitting away really good that's why we chose this hatchet that's really heavy but it also has that really steep bevel now even though these are really rough chops you'll see we're trying to keep some symmetry to our layout so we're developing these sight ridges because you need these sight ridges to see your symmetry but you also need the ability to recognize the sight ridges so you can train your eye to achieve symmetry and so you'll notice these cuts aren't just wild cuts one landing here one landing there all of them no they're making a nice surface and peeling off an intentional amount of wood with each pass so we have our basic rough out right here you can see all of the flat surfaces we're done with the flat surface rough out now we're going to start adding the compound round third dimension to it this was an important step to do it systematically this way for a few reasons one because it gave us the ability to systematically learn control on these flows right here to get these nice surfaces and it helped another way because we established these site ridges all of these site ridges here enable us to better achieve symmetry on the whole the process and it enables us to establish sight ridges site references so those are really really important things the next thing i'm going to take time to point out seems like it's not important but it actually really is so we're going to start adding the third dimension over here we're going to round in from this side and we're not just going to immediately go over and round this side we're going to round from here and then we're going to go to here and the reason is is because if you take time to gain all of this coordination from sighting from this side and and feeling in this experience from this side and then when you turn to this side you have to re-learn this other side of the bowl so that's not efficient if you if you take the time to learn and get coordinated with this side and you flip it around and then now you can just employ all of that that coordination that you gain and all that muscle memory you can just go right back into it fresh and so you're really really efficient that way if you just go from here to there you're relearning in between each time and that's not efficient it doesn't seem like that matters but it really matters anyways let's go ahead and start chopping but i want to take this all the way around to center this close to it okay now all of that experience and coordination and muscle memory i can just flip around and reapply it to this side efficiently without having to re-learn and re-get oriented so let's go ahead and start chopping so now we're going to start cutting on the other side you'll see the other side is completely positioned different so your your site reference everything is different so that's why we just went ahead and took advantage of the experience and did it how we did it systematically like that so now whenever i learn how to make this side i'm not going to go to the other side and forget all that i'm going to go to the opposite corner which is the same so it'll allow my all that experience to reapply really quickly another thing is notice how i'm leaving all of these wood chips on the chopping block so if i over stroke bang i hit those nice fresh wood chips instead of going into that chopping block that may have sand we tried to keep the sand out of the chopping block but your chopping block always gets sanded so this is safer you can hit those without damaging your edge let's take time to understand what's happening here so we are in the rough out stage so yes some of these chops are wild and rough hence the rough out stage also you can see there is a system to what we're doing you can see these sight ridges they're all very similar right here and that is that's making us more efficient with our chops because we spend less time subconsciously second guessing our every move all of these like add to our security and our efficiency so all these site ridges are really important that's why it's important to do things systematically you don't want to go about it all add a little bit here a little bit there that's not how you do it not very efficient anyways let's start rounding out the bottom part here that is it pretty much rounded out you can see again we got a nice sight ridge around through there and we've got some pretty good symmetry with the rough out of our hatchet on the bottom the next step is to true up right down to that line exactly to it so before we start cutting exactly to that line we're just going to take just a minute and re-strap the hatchet you want you want to re-strap often you know every five or ten minutes every 5 minutes doesn't take long and it really brings you back to that that that peak performance so yeah stop often that's what's dropping looks like it doesn't take long anyways now we're going to get right back to this line right here and again we're going to do it systematically so we're going to start here and i'm going to switch over there because we want to apply all the experience and and run with that experience we don't want to break it up and forget and have to relearn that's not efficient so let's go ahead and start on this side right here we're going to go right directly to the line now if we were doing this moving three inches of wood that would be ridiculous you can see we're only moving about half inch to 5 8 right there it's important to keep this 90 from the top so that is right down to the line 100 there and that's as far as we're going to go with the hatchet we are going to switch out tools we're going to start with an ads from here so i'm going to show you how we're going to lay that out this is a finger gauge technique in building anything this is a good trick to know so practice that it's very easy but we use it all the time so we're going to have about a half inch rim on this once we get this marked out we're going to switch over to the ads and start chopping so this right here is the ads we're going to be using this is the ads that we forged on the how to forge an ads video you can look that up and it's also the ads that we sharpened on the how to sharpen your tools video so let's go ahead and start this we're going to rough out the outside with this and we'll do a lot of digging out on the inside with the same tool so this will be the first bowl that this adds has carved let's see how it works so this right here is a rough out edge this is this is when you carve a bowl you need like minimum of two but more likely three adds and so this one right here was replacing our rough out end so it's really aggressive for doing this rough out and it is working really good so what we're doing i'm sure it's difficult for you to see the depth of this wood because it's so light and the light is is also making it really hard to see we've got that control line we're trying to take these rough chops and we're bringing it right down to that line roughly now those are the those are the rough ones and and so that's the real rough chop stage and then we're adding over here you can see we've we started to take the ridges off this is a little bit smoother but still in the roughout stage so we're going to take this take the ridge off cut all the way around you can see the transition right here where it gets really rough again so what we're doing is we're taking these ridges off right down to the line and this is still just in the rough out phase with this rough edge we just go round and round and round taking these ridges off and each time refining but we're only going to go so far with this rough out ads and then we're going to switch to a surfacing edge that's going to surface it out way smoother than this one can this one's really aggressive designed to remove a lot of wood really really quickly so that's as far as we're going to go with this rough out ads on the outside time to switch ads but anyways this ads is working really really good this is the first time we've put it to wood and i'm i'm really impressed i really like this ads so let's uh let's switch out here always put your tools back in the case so we're going to switch out to a slightly different ads this adds is much less aggressive it has it's not so rounded this way it's more kind of flat and then it rounds up locally on the ends so and it's not as aggressive this way it doesn't dig in so much so this this creates a lot more controlled surface with with less ridges so we're going to go ahead and put our final pass on the outside of the bowl with this surfacing ads we're taking this line this adds right down to the line this will be our final pass on the outside with this axe so that is the final pass we're going to make with this ads which is just about the final surface we went all the way to the line around through there you can see and surface that out really really nice this adds does a good job not very aggressive but it has a lot of control it really surfaces that out so now we're going to approach making the base of the bowl proud and working on this compound flow right here so we're going to make the bottom stand out proud now and before we do we're just going to take another moment to see our symmetry that we have here nice sight ridge you can see that nice symmetry you always want to return back to that so uh let's go ahead and grab the old trusty gouge here and a mallet and we're going to go around the bottom and make this bottom piece stand out real proud we've got a grain restriction right there so we're going to have to stop and start here and again we do it systematically do it one side that way we can reapply all the muscle memory and all the skill we've gained with the first pass we don't break it up so we went around there with the gouge and we got the bottom of that bowl standing real proud now we're going to finish up with this fishtail we want a nice controlled start we're going to flow this back in all the way around let's go ahead and get on that so that is that you can see the outside of that bowl is a pretty good rough out those uh those fish tail marks right there are really symmetrical that looks really really good you can see this way we have a real nice like s-curve to that both ways and uh we are going to switch over to the spokeshave from here and get on with a spokeshave and kind of and flow out these fishtail cuts a little bit let's do that time to get at it with the spokeshave we're going to finish up these fishtail marks and flow that in really really nice and smooth it out a spokeshave is a really nice tool i'm sure a lot of you know what these are and have them and use them every day and for those of you that don't you should get one spokeshave really really nice tool you're about to see just how good this thing is [Music] so that is pretty much that with the spokeshave we have the outside of that sucker all surfaced out really really nice and see you can see how smooth that is a nice round the even shapes on both sides even looking at it in for end like this really nice smooth flow to that so now it's time to flip it over and dig out the inside let's get started on that so we're about to start digging this out but before we start digging it out i want to like take a moment to explain a few things about adzes so i have this ads right here and i have this ads in my toolbox specifically for the purpose of showing everyone an ads that you should never use and this is the most common ads out there on the market when you go to buying ads you will see this one when you look up youtube videos on how to forge in ads you will see them forging these right here and from a blacksmith standpoint this is really quality work it looks really nice amazing fun videos to watch too there's a bunch of them out there they have really big fancy power hammers and whatnot and they're doing a really good job as far as blacksmithing is concerned but as far as woodworking is concerned they're not effective at all for a thousand reasons and i'll show just a few of them so for one the handle is here like you're supposed to hold the handle here but when you're chopping you're not holding it there you're holding it way back here which puts your knuckle so far away from the cutting edge it's becomes totally counterintuitive and and you can't control it at all and you have just no efficiency so so that's one of the reasons another reason is because from where the wood chip is going to start cutting to here there's no depth so the wood chip immediately starts pounding up against there reducing its ability to actually move any wood again it's a very narrow cutting edge that way so just there's at least 3000 reasons why this ads is awful all that being said i'm sure that if you're approaching uh carving a bowl this is most likely the ads you're gonna have in your toolbox and so the best ads is always the ads that you have except for not really the best ads is one of these over here so let's let's put this one down before i get carried away and uh let's look at these answers now now this ads right here is the one we just forged the other day on our how to forge an ads video we should look that up anyway so this ads is different for a thousand reasons so the depth the throat here from the cutting edge all the way to here is really really long so the wood chips can just go and go and go and they never stop or start restricting the cut the cutting edge is way wider so it's way more aggressive and the distance between the cut and your knuckle is really really close so that makes it really intuitive you can just man with just precision strokes you can get right down on it and uh there's another reason why these ads are good because this ads we've given this ads an attitude we have charged this ads to accomplish a specific task this ads over here is supposed to accomplish a full radius which that's ridiculous that would be like taking your honda civic or your prius out four wheeling you would you would never be uh you wouldn't have much fun doing that so we'll put this as back so this ads has a specific task we have we have given this this ads an attitude and its desire is to be aggressive and remove a lot of wood so that's what this adds does it moves a lot of wood really digs in really moves the wood okay so we rough out what that edge then we come over here to the second one and the second one you've seen this one in action already two this is the surfacing edge it is not nowhere near as aggressive it rounds off a little bit more here making it not just dig in with every stroke but it really makes a nice smooth surface so this is what we surface out the inside and the outside the bowls with the final pass of the inside will be done with this one right here and we'll go over here to this third edge this third edge is even like sillier looking but this one here has a really really aggressive radius so this one can really take a really steep radius so this one i use for getting way down in the bottom of the bowls and if you look at them you can kind of see how how the aggressiveness changes throughout all of these adds is right here so i think a common mistake people make is thinking you're going to be successful carving a bowl and using only one ads and you can beat yourself to death and hack through a bowl using one adds i definitely don't recommend that you should start with at least two you'll be way more successful way easier anyways enough of that painful describing uh all of that nonsense which is actually super useful information enough of that let's get back to chomping on this bowl let's have at it always a good idea to strop often all the time every five minutes or so just give her a once-over and it'll just bring it right back to that that uh amazing aggressive performance that's what's dropping looks like and we're ready to start removing the wood from the inside now i see a lot of times on youtube also where people take chainsaws and they score it now that scoring with the chainsaw it it does enable you to like bust out some wood quickly but it i don't think that it that it overall like speeds up the process i never score them and if it sped up the process i would probably score them because we have to carve so many of them but i don't ever score with a chainsaw because what you're doing is you're you're you're you're creating like this isolation from the wood when you do that hard to explain but let me make an attempt so i'm not going to score it with a chainsaw i'm just going to start cutting and the reason why is because i want to start cutting slow and get bigger and bigger and bigger and and with every cut i'm going to practice a flow and control so that's going to give me a lot of time to really work on getting that flow and getting that control by the time i get all the way out to that control line and put my finished surface on it so now if i scored it i would have to break these scores out here and it would be really really rough and then to go from the chainsaw to the adds is this awful transition and you're beating yourself to death and it reduces your ability to practice and to really get a relationship with the wood so it it it it isolates you from from from that element of learning the wood so i think that scoring is a negative aspect i don't recommend that but i also always recommend do what you're comfortable with doing anyways let's start chopping you can see we're making some pretty good headway there now what i hear all the time when i'm carving at shows and stuff i hear people say well that must be a really soft piece of wood that's what they say and uh they're always wrong about that because sycamore is not that soft and neither is walnut walnut's pretty tough wood but the truth is it's a really sharp effective tool mixed with good technique all that being said focus on like when you're making these chops you don't just want to go crazy and like and just accelerate out through there you can see that even though we're in this this really aggressive roughing stage you can still see a good system to what we're doing you can see like this rough oval keeps expanding systematically towards our control line and these uh these scallops there are really really even so keep that in mind even through the rough out make the rough out look nice and do it systematically let's get back to chopping all right so we've gone about as far as we're going to go with this as because this is the really aggressive one the rough out one and it made really short work of that man it just went so fast but you can see it's a pretty nasty job now this ad just keeps wanting to dig in and dig in and dig in so that is a rough out right there now we're going to switch ads and surface that out with an ads that has more control slightly less aggressive ads so that is that that is the final cut that we're going to make with the adds nice surface through there probably have a difficult time seeing it on the film but anyways that is a pretty nice surface you can see we have this this nice even uh reveal all the way around through there now we're going to take the spokeshave and we're going to we're going to roll this back but before we roll that back we are going to take the spokeshave and finish up this edge because that edge right now only has a hatchet cut on it which is a really good cut but it needs to be a little smoother so we're going to surface this out with the spokeshave here and then get on the inside and roll that edge out too let's do that so you so foreign so so so that's pretty much the top of that sucker nice and rolled out through there now we've got to flip it over and we've got to dish out the bottom right here so when you put it down it doesn't rock so we're going to carve out the bottom right here [Laughter] so that is that that's the bottom all dished out nice so when it sits on your table it won't rock around this is that's pretty much it this bowl is just about complete the only thing left is to let it dry out now it's roughly three eighths to half inch so it'll dry out really really quickly take about like a week week and a half or something but anyways that's what one that's what one looks like that is got some really nice s turns there on the side nice smooth surface on the inside and uh nice graceful little bottom there to uh to perch it elegantly on right there bang so that's that if you're interested in any of the work that you see you can check out our etsy shop we're going to leave a link in the description and if you have any questions about the tools or techniques or just anything in general you can leave those in the comments so that is pretty much it for today i hope this video brought some value and i guess we'll see you next time

Channel: Carving A Path

Views: 204,190

Rating: 4.9139099 out of 5

Keywords:

Id: f8tUeOZ5NNU

Length: 58min 44sec (3524 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 17 2020