Woodturning Wood Bowl Coring Oneway System Video

how many potential bowls do you see right here [Music] hi i'm kent and welcome to turn a wood bowl today i've got this great big piece of wood that i've turned into a nice large bowl blank now this is a lot of wood to be just turning one large bowl it sure would be a waste to not use up all the inside of this bowl blank so that's exactly what i'm going to do today i'm going to core out three different bowls from this one full blank let me set this down it's getting a little heavy [Music] when you've got a large bull blank like that and this is actually fresh green wood that's wet and it's heavy it would make a lot of really cool shavings but if i were to turn just one bowl from this and remove that entire interior there's going to be a lot of shavings a lot of waste a lot to clean up but instead instead of wasting that we can use the inside portion of this larger bowl to make two more bowls and that's what i'm going to show you i use the one-way coring system and i'm going to demonstrate that today and you can check it out now the bowls that we're going to turn are going to be once turned wet and then i'm going to seal the end grain and we're going to set them aside to dry so later they can be turned a second time that's called twice turning if you'd like to learn more about that check out my video all on twice turning and why you might want to try this to get some really nice round bowls in the future alright so the first thing i need to do is i need to rough the outside of the main bowl and then we'll set up the coring system and start coring so let's get started all right i need to find the center of this bowl blank so i simply just measure across and i measure across in a couple different areas and mark those and then i've got a really good idea where the center of this blank is now for a piece this size i'm going to use a face plate face plate especially this six inch or approximately 15 centimeter face plate is really nice for holding this bolt blank very secure on the lathe now i'm going to put i'm going to put about six screws in this i don't have to fill in all of those screw holes this will give me a good secure connection to the lathe if you want to learn more about how to attach a bull blank to the lathe check out my video on three different ways to attach bolt blanks to the lathe you definitely want to make sure you have an appropriately sized faceplate for your blank and when you come up to the headstock like this you want to support the bulb blank and get that faceplate lined up with the threads and turn the hand wheel only this is a real good way to mess up the threads on the on the headstock if you start trying to spin that bowl blank those threads and the weight of that bulb blank can really do some damage there so you want to be careful just turn the the hand wheel when you're doing that all right so i'm going to bring the tail stock up for a little extra support i'm using my 5 8 inch swept back bowl gouge to start the roughing process here i'm essentially going to take off like a 45 degree angle start cutting off the side angle and that's going to start shaping the the base of the bowl as well i'm using a kind of a sweeping cut with the tip of the gouge pointed to the left at about 10 o'clock you also want to bring that tool rest up close stop periodically and move that up so you get good support i'm using a sweeping cut and i'm i'm allowing that left wing to really dig in and just tear out material i'm not really concerned about making a nice smooth cut here i just want to get material removed from this blank to start making that outer shape because we're using the one-way coring system they are basically like a hemispherical shape so we want a relatively round bowl blank the blank that i'm going to be making or the blanks i'm going to be making from this will be relatively thick so after they dry and we try twice turn them and after they've distorted i'll be able to still make some other final design changes in that so there's plenty of material to work with let me just keep working one pass after another to take this whole side down now i still have some bark that's included in this um section so i'm getting a little skipping and some bouncing going on because of that bark area now i've rotated my body here a little bit and i'm doing more of a scraping pulling cut and you can see how that is basically ripping the material out a little bit quicker the darker patches you see spinning there is the bark area this is real green freshly cut pecan it's a pretty wood and it's got some really cool grain patterns in it it's got some heartwood and some some patterns it's from a relatively large tree i think the large bowl from this is going to be especially nice once it's finished so twice turning essentially is turning it once like we're doing now while the wood is still wet and we're going to turn it with the wall thickness is about 10 of the diameter that means it's going to have a relatively thick wall and the reason for that is when the wall and the bowl dries it's going to distort typically the side grain areas will pull inward and the end grain will push out so it makes more of an oval shape well if we make the wall too thin at this point and the bowl is oval shaped we try to put it back on the lathe there may not be enough meat or wood material to actually turn a full circle that's why we want to make sure that we're using about a ten percent uh thickness compared to the diameter so the the idea here is we'll turn this while it's wet just to a rough shape this thick and we'll put it away until and let it dry and after it's dried technically it's equalized there's wood is never really dried but it's basically equalized to its environment then we put it back on the lathe it will be distorted but we can chew it up we can true up the exterior and shape the exterior and then turn the interior and you've got this really nice relatively dry finished piece that most likely won't distort anymore so if you ever want to make a bowl that has a really true circular shape to it there you can see that bark i've got to get off there still you can also see the beautiful patterns in the end grain there if you want to make a beautiful bowl that's got a nice round shape it doesn't distort the the way you do that is you twice turn it you need to turn it once while it's wet like we're doing now let it sit and dry or put it in a dryer of some sort or microwave dry it if you want to learn more about microwave drying check out my video on microwave drying bowl blanks although this is a pretty big bowl to be drying in the microwave more medium or smaller size bowls work well with the microwave so basically just working this material down and and getting this surface down to the shape the final shape and we've got to work through that bark area i'm through the bark area there's a little bit of cambium that needs to be removed too that that surface right underneath the bark i'm going to square up the side here just bring the tool rest around and make it just a simple push cut across the end so that's all nice and rounded off now i've got the lathe speed up to about as fast as i'm going to make this go i want to make sure that i'm not turning too fast this is a very large bolt blank it's got a lot of weight and momentum and that can become dangerous if you're not sure about what your lathe speed should be based on the bowl that you're turning then check out my video on wood lathe speed because there's a lot you need to know especially if you come from the spindle turning world you do not turn bulls like at the same speed that you turn spindle turning spindle turnings can be turned at much faster rpms than bowls so you're going to want to check out that video all right so we're starting to get the final shape here you start seeing the curve taking place i'm going to make a few push cuts still need to remove a little bit of that cambium bark area i'm going to make a push cut all the way around that's the other nice thing about turning green wood is look how long those shavings are coming off well if you think about it so the long shavings are basically this is a side grain mounted bowl so the grain is running sideways so when the bulb blank goes around it cuts side grain from in grain to end grain well the end grain is kind of like the cut off point so what those big curls are is basically the entire side grain of the bowl coming off and then the shavings stop at the end grain because the end grains are about 90 degrees to the bowl or the bowl gouge so they kind of break off there but when the wood is green and all of those wood cells are filled with with water especially along the in grain then instead of breaking off like they typically do they can be turned sometimes continuously so when you get really wet wood you can turn shavings that almost never end they just keep spiraling off there because they're not breaking when they come around to the end grain portion of it this is my half inch 55 degree bevel swept back bowl gouge this is going to give me a little bit more refined cut i'm just doing this kind of a quick cleanup cut i'm not trying to make like a finish cut here we don't have to do any kind of detailed work as far as making finishing surfaces on it all right so the shape is pretty much there now i'm going to take and clean up the base and make the tenon that will be used to attach this to the chuck i'm just going to clean up the face of the bowl here this is my half inch swept back bowl gouge and i'm going to use the dividers to mark the tenon and it turns out i've got just enough material there to make the tenon size i want now i'm making the tenon larger because it's also going to distort the bowl will distort and the tenon will distort so i need to true up that tenon before i can put the bowl back on the chuck later after it's dried so we'll make that a little bit oversized which is technically not the best thing to do for a four jaw chuck because it doesn't have a true grip on the tenon or it doesn't have the best grip that it possibly could when it's larger than the chuck size but that's okay this will work fine i'm also defining the shoulder area and i'm creating the bottom curve of this bowl just kind of making that continuous you can see how that curve will flow through the shoulder and through the tenon the final base for this bowl will not be as big as this tenon we're doing a nice big tenon here so we've got plenty of support while we're working on the lathe for coreing out and then that tenon area will be removed on the final bowl to to create the final foot all right and that was my 3 8 inch spindle detail gouge i used to make the dovetail angle on the tenon so now we can take this off the lathe and get it turned around and ready to core it's a pretty quick process because we're not really fussing with trying to make the outside surface perfect we're just giving a rough shape and then we're going to do the coring and we can come back and do that final shaping on the second turn again use that hand crank do not try to spin that bow blank off the headstock because it will damage threads all right so basically he's going to unscrew the face plate now also if you notice the size of this face plate it's it's proportionate to this bowl blank you wouldn't want to use anything smaller than this and i really don't need to use anything bigger they're pretty much face plates of any size you can imagine so this is my largest face plate but it works really good for this size of bowl all right so i'm putting on my four jaw chuck same technique use the hand wheel to bring the chuck up to the headstock now i have to over expand these jaws because i made that tenon a little bit larger knowing that it's going to distort and change shape and what happens is instead of making each one of those curves gripping the tenon it's the corners of those each jaw that kind of bites into it so you don't get its true grip when you have a larger tenon so you really want to make the tenon as close to the actual four jaw chuck size as possible okay i'm going to use the 5 8 inch bowl gouge again to make a face cut it's just a simple push cut if the flute is open straight up at and that is 12 o'clock i have the bowl gouge tilted to the right at about 130 as i'm making this cut i actually have the tool rest a little bit high there i had to reach into that center to get down all right i'm going to switch over to my half inch 55 degree bevel swept back bowl gouge and kind of make a little bit cleaner finishing cut here both of those bowl gouges have the same bevel profile that 55 degree bevel swept back i really like that because it has so much versatility and can do so many different things okay so we wanted a good clean face so we can see what we've got going on here all right this bulb blank is about 13 inches wide or about 33 centimeters and what i need to do is i need to mark off about 10 percent of that for the thickness and that's going to be about an inch and a half or about 33 millimeters and i'm going to bring the tool rest up and i'm going to make a circle so i i know where i'm going to be cutting so that is going to be the diameter and the shape of the largest bowl blank now i'm going to make a second line which is going to indicate just roughly about the thickness that i will be cutting with the coring knife now we're going to measure the second bowl inside there and this is coming in at about 10 inches wide or about 25 centimeters so 10 of that is about 1 inch or 25 millimeters so i'm going to mark that so that's going to be the wall thickness in the diameter of the second bowl and then i'll go ahead and mark where that cutting tip is the space that it'll cut as it's making the cut and now you can see the three bowls at this point we don't really need the tool rest anymore and i need to get out of the way so instead of taking it completely off the lead what i like to do is i like to just pop the the bowl off the chuck and then i'll slide the banjo and the tool rest up underneath the headstock so it's out of the way now we're going to need that space for the coring system okay so the plate that the coring system has has a a simple little locking clamp that fits the space between the two rails on the bed so you want to put that block in place and snug it up and then we've got two post supports one is for the center knife and the other one is for the support for the knife each knife set has a matching supporting curve this is the number one knife set which has about a about a five five and a half inch swing on it and that would be about a 13 centimeter swing so i'm going to attach the handle to this knife now they call the curved portion on a cutting knife but the um the actual tip is what's doing the cutting what i'm doing here is i'm going to position the system the way to make the cut that i need to make first of all i need to know how deep these bowls will be and i'm going to measure the thickness of the first bowl and again that's about an inch and a quarter about 33 millimeters from the base of the of the bowl and i'll mark that i'm just going to make a mark on the side of the bowl of how deep that one should go and i'm marking that from the face of the of the top of the bowl now i'm gonna i'm going to yeah that's about four cent four centimeters coming off the the side there you really want to take your time and measure this and think about vids i i do this visually i look and i imagine that that cutting knife and the rotation and how deep that rotation is going to go into the bowl itself so here's the deepest this will be the the depth of the the large bowl now i'm going to measure the the second bowl and this is about six centimeters in so i'm going to mark where that's going to cross now i don't want to come in so it's gonna be about three inches or seven and a half centimeters deep the arm of this knife has a five inch or 13 centimeter swing right from the tip of the tape measure there is the rotation point so that's where i'm measuring from i can see there's the the 5 inch or 13 centimeter mark and i'm looking straight down on the top of it i'm also measuring the distance between right there's our pivot point i'm measuring the distance between the bull blank and that pivot point and it's about four centimeters there so i'm positioning the tip of the cutting knife right on the two lines that i already drew and i'm spacing it back away from the depth of the bowl so that swing should give me the depth that i'm looking for for the first bowl so what i do at this point is i lock the plate of the coring system very carefully just take your time and lock that down and then i move the support arm right underneath the cutting knife and tighten it down and we're ready to start making the first cut now when we're cutting with the coring system we do not need a very fast lathe speed i do not i'm probably turning it maybe four or 500 rpms now again i don't have an rpm readout on my lathe the other thing i'm going to be doing is as soon as that knife is in a little bit deeper i'm going to be able to move the tail stock up i'm going to use that for added support the first cuts that the knife is making is are scraping cut so they're all scraping cuts but they're going against that in grain at about a 90 degree angle so you're going to get a lot of fine dust initially and it's going to be a little bit hard cutting at first you can see the knife and if you if you go too aggressively it can slow down the lathe or you can get the belt to skip on your lathe too so you want to just take your time and you need to also back the knife out frequently to get the shavings out of the groove so that they don't bind up in there and just take your time do a little bit at a time back the knife out clean the shavings off now you can see as the knife gets a little bit deeper i'm getting more shavings that's because it's getting around to the to the side green material and it's making those curly shavings now i've got enough room to get the tail stock in there for some support i'm just basically moving in and pulling it out and then make sure you clear the shavings each time just a little bit of time you don't have to be doing anything really fast here okay so once there's a little bit of depth that's been cut you want to rotate the supporting bracket underneath the knife and put it into the channel that's been cut now that support arm needs to be perfectly lined up and parallel to the cutting knife so you can put your hand there you can feel that they're lined up and you want to get it pretty deep into that hole but not up against the bull blank the bull blank should be able to spin freely and then carefully tighten that back up now i hold that base plate so i don't accidentally torque it and change the rotation of that plate i want everything to stay in the same position as i'm making this this cut all right then we just pick up where we left off let's keep removing material making sure that that area stays clear yeah unfortunately there's not much artistic um opportunity here you're basically confined to cutting out a a round chunk of wood but it's it's a great time saver and it does prevent you know wasting all that material just making a big pile of shavings which would happen if you didn't have a coring system like this all right then periodically you're going to want to stop once that once that groove gets a little deeper you're going to stop and work that support arm in a little bit deeper as well so you have more support you don't ever want to have the knife over extended into that cutting space without support underneath it yeah it's it's just a fun process it is it's really satisfying to be able to get multiple bulls from one bull blank here you can see the shavings are accumulating much quicker when you when the knife is wrapped around the back side you're you're cutting that side green it's kind of just tearing material out much easier than the the initial cuts are against that end grain and it's a little bit more difficult for the knife to make good clean cuts but once it's down into the bottom of it it's cuts really efficiently as a matter of fact you can slow the lathe down when you're coming towards the end of the cut now when the handle is parallel to the surface of the bowl the top rim surface that knife is pretty much also at the bottom center of that bowl blank so it's going to be breaking off pretty pretty quickly once that the tool knife is close to the parallel to the front we're almost there i'm going to move this in just a little bit more just to make sure that i've got good support while i'm in there i've got the lathe speed down and there you go there's our first bull blank all right we'll set that aside if you're enjoying this video do me a huge favor and click that like button right below the screen yeah the like button the full thumbs up yeah click that thank you okay so every cut you make with the coring system you basically want to loosen up the the base plate and the support arm and basically reposition them now this bowl is it's only 13 inches or 33 centimeters across and i can do both of these cuts with this one knife if you notice that the first cut i made i wasn't really centered and i wasn't making as big of a cut so i actually made a smaller bowl with this knife now i'm going to try to make the maximum size bold this knife will make which is about an 11 inch bowl so i'm going to bring the center pivot post right up against the bull blank that's another reason why we cleaned up that face of the bull blank before we started that support right there in the middle you can see i'm right up against the bull blanket obviously i don't want it touching but there's just a hair of space between there and that's going to give me the closest rotation and now i'm measuring the depth of how deep that will be cutting and it's going to cut down to the the point that you're seeing right there about four and a half inches or 11 centimeters deep and i line up the cutting tip with that little groove that we drew earlier now i'm going to tighten up the plate again once that plates tightened that doesn't that doesn't come i just gotta you gotta be really careful with that especially when the shavings accumulate there it makes it really easy for that wrench to pop off and i'll tell you what i wrapped my knuckle pretty good and you'll see that in just a bit it really smarts okay so we do the same process here now there are multiple knife sizes that are available i have another i have the number two knife which makes about a 14 inch full blank and there's another larger one than that i haven't yet to use that myself personally but if you're able to get to like a 15 15 or 16 inch bow blank that would be like in the 40 centimeter range then you can use multiple different size knives to make the inside bowl blanks and those knife sets will just simply drop right into those same pivot holes they're just a slightly different sized arc so the same process here basically working through pulling out making sure the material doesn't accumulate inside the the kerf of the cutting groove and the tail stock being there for added support is is a huge benefit i have a tail stock extension in there that you might want to check out i'll have that listed in the description below along with all the other materials that we're using here if you want to check that out i use that on a regular basis and it's i i really like that extension okay so i'm going to take the support arm and work it into the new cut groove and make sure it's lined up with the knife and i'll tighten that up you know glenn lucas makes a set of levers that go in on this particular coring system that replace those bolts and it makes it really nice so you're not wrapping your knuckles into the side of the lathe like i did earlier that's something to check out the larger the curve and the deeper the bull you really want to make sure that material doesn't build up inside that nice space i have bound it up before and brought the lead to a screeching halt and it's not good obviously you just keep working that support arm in again you don't want to jam it all the way into the back you want to spin the bowl and make sure that it can spin freely and it's not rubbing the cutting tip needs to be taken off about every two or three bowls that tip needs to be taken off and sharpened there's a sharpening kit for it that will will help you hold it it's like a mount that you can hold the tip in and you can bring it up to your sharpening station and sharpen it on the platform the really interesting thing you can do instead of turning the the grinding wheel on you can simply just turn the wheel by hand and just lightly sharpen the the tip that by not turning the grinder on you won't remove a ton of material from it it is a really small little cutting tip and if you grind it a whole bunch it's going to disappear pretty quickly but just by turning it by hand you can create a nice sharp edge on it and you're not removing that much material okay so i'm working in the support arm a little bit farther and again you really want to make sure you hold that plate because you're applying so much torque with the leverage of that wrench you can easily rotate that plate and then your curve is off from the cutting tool and you're going to have issues so you want to make sure that plate does not move while you're tightening the support arm base now see how the handle is almost parallel with the top rim of the bowls that's how you know we're getting really close you can also hear the sound difference because it's cutting through a little bit hollow material and you've got that hollow bull moving around you can slow down here because you're cutting with the grain of the wood you don't have to be going that fast you can see how slow this is going it's maybe a couple hundred rpms at this point all right it should be through now i'm past parallel you can see it's moving just a little bit there it's gonna go any second sometimes they don't pop out like that first one did and that's okay you can you can basically back up the tail stock and you can see if it's loose and that's what i'm going to do here in just a second you can take the wrench and pry this out but only do this on the side grain areas if you do it on the end grain areas you can tear the end grain in the bottom if you do it in the side grain it has a tendency to to pop off just like that there's our second bowl blank all right so we have three bowl blanks that's the fun thing too is when you do the second one then the third one's completed at the same time so we're done using the coring system at this point so i'm going to take the the knife and the support arm off and then i'll take the plate off of the lathe now i need to get the tool rest and the banjo back out now i want to remove that little nub in the center of the bottom of the bowl it has some torn out end grain in it if you think of it like a like a wick almost like a candle wick that's going to be an area that can dry out really quick because of those loose torn out fibers there so instead of leaving them like they are i'm going to go ahead and trim those off so the bottom of the bowl is relatively smooth my regular tool rest isn't quite reaching so i'm going to use my longer j tool rest and i'm going to use my 5 8 inch micro bevel bowl gouge this is a great tool to reach down into a deep bowl like this to make an easy cut if you want to learn more about the micro bevel bowl gouge check out my video all about the micro bevel bowl guide it's a secret weapon so i'm going to basically turn this off and make it flush and get all that i want all that loose torn out end grain removed because that's a great place for the moisture to escape too quickly all right there we go and so again we're not trying to make any any perfect shapes at this point we're just you can see my knuckle that got wrapped up against the lathe right there okay so here they are all right so now i'm using this product called anchor seal this is kind of like a wax latex sealant and it works really good for sealing the end grain and the reason we want to seal the end grain is if you think about them as like the open ends of straws they're going to let moisture out really quickly the end grain is both on the inside of the bowl and the outside of the bowl i've already painted the outside of the bowl and now i'm doing the inside portion i'll have a link for the anchor seal in the description below if you want to check that out but the side grain doesn't really need to be sealed off if you think of the side grain like the straws that's like the the side grain are the sides of the straws and the end grain or the ends or the tips well most of the moisture is going to quickly escape the ends or the tips of the straws and that's what we're sealing up so we're slowing it out it kind of evens up the amount of moisture that's going to evaporate from the bowl and makes it evaporate more evenly so it doesn't have a tendency to crack okay so now i take these bowls and what i do is i use some scrap pieces of wood use three pieces of scrap wood and you can stack them inside one another just the way they came out this is going to allow for enough air movement around them that they can dry out these can be placed on a shelf or if you have like a a passive dryer you can put them in there and there you go and we've just made three bowl blanks from one chunk of wood i got to tell you that's very satisfying all right there you go that's how you can get multiple bull blanks from one chunk of wood now it's a super cool technique it's very efficient it's time saving and it's really resourceful it's really using the materials without making a lot of waste but there's a little bit of a downside to this and that downside is you kind of have to wait if you're going to twice turn now you essentially have three bulb blanks if you want to continue and finish up each one of those bulb blanks you can but you don't have to you could you could twice turn this let it dry then twice turn it now i get the argument a lot i get people say well i want that instant satisfaction and i want to have i want to finish the bowl and be done with it and i just want to get it done well i'll tell you what what most people don't consider is that the coring doesn't really take that long to do and we're just roughing those surfaces so we're not really trying to get a smooth finish cut necessarily we don't want ripped out grain but we're not trying to make everything perfect on this first turning so it goes pretty quick and what you've done is you've essentially done half of the work of turning a bowl so you set this aside let it dry if you've got a dryer it might take a few weeks if you put on a shelf it could take a year but what's interesting is you're probably going to find other things to turn in the meantime and you're going to forget about these blanks i know because i thought the same thing i thought i'm going to turn a few of these and i'm going to try to wait but i'm going to turn them too early and they're not going to be dry well guess what i completely forgot about them i did and i started i had other wood that came in that i found people gave me so i just kept turning and before long i went back and looked at these bull blanks and i looked at the date on them which by the way that's a great idea take a take a marker and mark the date and put the type of wood on the bottom of the two if you do a bunch of these and they're all stacked up you might forget what kind of wood it is so i went back and i looked at what i had in my stack and i had things that were over a year old and they were completely dry so it was they were ready to be twice turned the weight really isn't that big of a deal think of it as like putting money in the bank you're going to have these beautiful bull blanks that you can make really nice round bowls with and the big plus is you've already done half the work with this coring process you're essentially going to put this back on the lathe true up the exterior and then turn the interior and you're done that's it so it's really it's kind of like taking all of the labor and breaking it in half so i like to do these and i like to do like three or four of them at a time so i come out with about you know nine or 12 bowls and then i'll put them in the dryer and just forget about them and once they're dry i if i don't if i have time to turn them i'll get to them but if i don't i just stack them on the shelf and then i'll get to them eventually so i hope you've enjoyed this video and i hope this kind of gives you a little bit of a taste of what what can happen when you core out your bull planks if you're into turning wood bowls or you're curious about turning wood bowls go check out my website turnawoodbull.com there you're going to find tons of information all dedicated to the art of turning wood bowls so go to turnawoodbowl.com and check it out all right guys well thank you so much for watching this and until next time happy turning you

Channel: Turn A Wood Bowl

Views: 24,479

Rating: 4.980392 out of 5

Keywords: Woodturning Wood Bowl Coring Oneway System Video, coring, coring system, woodturning, oneway easy core bowl coring system, oneway bowl coring system, oneway, one way coring system video, coring system for wood lathe, bowl coring system, nesting bowls, Kent Weakley, Turn a wood bowl, wood bowl, oneway coring system, bowl turning, wood turning, bowl turning on a lathe, bowl turning techniques, bowl turning videos, wood bowl turning, wood bowl making, Wood bowl lathe

Id: EdfFWXHTEL8

Length: 39min 38sec (2378 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 13 2021