Firewood Log to Bowl Twice-Turned Ebony Mulberry Wood Bowl - Woodturning Video

today we're going to turn this into this [Music] hi i'm kent and welcome to turn wood bowl today i'm going to take this piece of mulberry which i got from my brother aaron thank you aaron and i'm going to turn it into a really cool small twice turned and ebonized bowl and i'm going to show you the entire process so stay tuned with me and see exactly how i do this now i'm going to be twice turning it so that i maintain a nice round rim if i once turn it this is slightly green it still has some moisture in it if i turn it just once thin is going to contract the the pith ends the ends with the pithenin are going to push out and the sides are going to pull in and i'm going to have more of an oval versus a really nice round shape so in the middle of this process i'm going to take a break and microwave dry this i'm going to put it back on the lathe turn it the second time so it stays true and round and then i'm going to edit the exterior and we'll see what we come up with i really like this wood because it's got this kind of this cool yellow hue to it it's um it's just really nice it's nice wood to turn it's got it's very graphic looking and it's i love the green patterns in it so let's go check this out and see how it goes first thing we're gonna need to do is take it over to the band saw and trim out a bold blank [Music] uh all right so there's our blank now we can start to see the green really nice on the the end grain how beautiful that's going to be and i could also feel the moisture on this as well the the shavings or the dust coming from this is sticking together which is a good indication there's lots of moisture in it still and we'll be dealing with that i'm going to be using a four spur drive chuck that sits in the morris taper of the headstock to hold this piece in place the advantage of this is it's going to easily let me adjust these points to center the blank as i'm turning so let me get this mounted in here and we'll balance it out what i'm looking for is a balance rotation i want the flat side that's cut to be relatively uh flat as well as far as the location on the on the the rotation i want this to be nice and true but i'm also lining up the wood grain here too and i want this grain pattern to be relatively centered on the piece so that's that's a real advantage of using the the spur chuck and the tail stock because i can make minor adjustments and line up some of this grain the way i want prior to making the turn all right that looks pretty good i'm i'm happy with that the first tool that i'll be using is a 5 8 inch swept back bowl gouge this bowl gouge is really good at removing large amounts of material quickly the swept back profile is a profile that i like to turn it's 55 degree bevel and it has swept back wings that go about one and a half times the diameter of the shaft if you want to learn more about sharpening and shaping bowl gouges be sure to check out my tool sharpening for wood bowl turning ecourse on my website there's also a link in the description below so let's go ahead and rough this out i want to start the lathe off slow and make sure we've got a good connection and everything's secure make sure the rotation's looking good and then i'll bring it up to speed that looks pretty good i've got a little bit of of vibration in there so i'm going to back the speed down just a touch and as i shape this it's going to become more true and i'll be able to speed it up just a bit as we make these cuts we want to recognize that our gouge is extending way too far over this tool rest stop the lathe and move the tool rest up i usually keep it about a half inch away or maybe a centimeter away from the exterior of the bowl and that way i know that i'm i've got the good support from the tool rest so we're starting to get the shape of the bowl here i still have plenty of bark and i have plenty of bark on the base of this now what i'm going to do is i'm actually going to remove the bark at the foot of this bowl because that's obviously going to be in our way for making a tenon in that so i'm going to go ahead and remove that now [Applause] now again i'm just using push cuts and they're grain supported so i'm going with the tip of the tool pointing in the direction that i'm cutting and i'm riding the bevel which means i'm lining up the the bevel edge making it parallel to where i want the shape of the bowl to be okay that's going to give me enough enough shape to get in position here what i really want to do is i want to form the tenon at this point because i want to be able to determine how much space i have at the bottom of the bowl which is going to be consumed by the tenon and the shoulder so let's go ahead and let's make those i'm going to clear off a little bit of area on the bottom there i'm going to use my half inch swept back bowl gouge which is essentially just like the previous bowl gouge i was using except a little bit smaller it makes a little bit finer more detailed cut and i want to make sure that that bowl base where the tendon is going to be is nice and flat and the way i check that is just run the bowl gouge up alongside of it and you'll be able to see if it's concave or convex or if it's flat like it is now which is exactly what we want that tenon is gonna be right here now i show how to do this in the in my video of how to make a tenon you wanna check out that video it goes over all the details of that so normally shape that the tenon cylinder and now i'm making the shoulder area i use and make a shoulder on top of the tenon or below the tenon so that i have extra space later design wise i can use this area to shape the remaining foot of the bowl but i can also use the shoulder and the tenon in case i mess up the interior and go too far down inside the bowl so that's going to be our shoulder right here making a push cut to clean that up i'll finish the tenon later but now you can see that because i reduce the the depth of this bull blank really the bottom of my bowl and the shape is going to be down here so now i'm going to continue shaping the exterior of the bowl using this point as the reference to be the base of the bowl that's also going to help me remove these bark areas okay so i'm going to continuously because this is green wood i'm also continuously checking to make sure the tail stock is nice and tight now i'm going to readjust the tool rest so i've got plenty of support to make this curved cut i'm going to go back to my 5 8 inch bowl gouge and remove the bulk of this material [Music] okay another thing is that because we have the majority of this bowl shaped i can speed up the lathe now and get a little bit faster or smoother turn because i can go faster i also i'm looking here i have to take off another half inch or so to get rid of this bark in this particular area [Applause] okay we're getting close we're down to the cambium not to make it curve available i'm it's kind of clunky looking i want this to be more elegant and a continuous curve so i'm going to actually pull up my base there a little bit more and then keep making that turn i'm going to bring my tool rest in just a bit i'm going to go to my smaller half inch bowl gouge here and become a little bit more refined so right there is going to be my ending point for the base and that's going to continue through as a nice curve and now i'm going to make the curve of the about the bowl match that [Applause] [Applause] this is a scraping cut scraping cut is just kind of a quick way to remove material but a little bit more refined and it also reaches into areas like i'm doing right now a little bit better so watch the shoulder and the base of the bowl there we go now it's helping to refine that shape just a bit more still have some cambian over here so i'm going to reduce this just a touch i'm leaving this top area alone because i know i've got a a crack going on here in the pit i may be taking that area down just a touch plus it's uneven it's just going to keep tearing out if i go that way so i'm gonna i'm gonna keep refining this this shape i want it to be more more elegant i wanted to come down to almost more of a point here so let me keep making that shape [Music] [Applause] okay and now i'm leaving this shoulder here because i need the support when i have the four jaw chuck attached to that i need to have good support at the base of the bowl but this is all going to be removed at the at the end of the bowl we're getting close now keep in mind we're roughing this out so that we can dry it and then we're going to turn it again so this doesn't have to be perfect on this turning but it should be pretty close let's speed this up just a bit check my tail stock okay so now that's looking good up here i want to get to refine this bottom just a touch all right that's going to be good now what i need to do before i can flip it is i need to make the dovetail for the tenon okay so some people ask why don't i make the dovetail when i made the initial 10 in here and what i like to do is i like to be able to be flexible with this setup when i'm using the four spur chuck and the tail stock and there also could be some vibrations introduced for making all those major cuts so what i like to do is put the dovetail on last so i'm at the same rotation then or the same position as the last few cuts i was making on the exterior of the bowl so it should turn truer when i rotate it around in the chuck so to get the dovetail on there i use a detail spindle gouge and i just make a simple push cut into the crotch of that cylinder to the shoulder and i also clean off the shoulder make sure it's nice and true and actually the little indentation in the middle if it's undercut a little bit is fine if it if it's proud that's going to be a problem because it's going to interfere with the the top of the jaws grabbing on properly so this looks good here everything is set up i'm going to get the four jaw chuck and reverse this and that's what we're looking for we're looking for a perfectly flush seat from the shoulder on top of the chuck and the tenon does not sit down in the base of the chuck so the only thing that's touching is the top of the jaws to the shoulder and the inside of the jaws to the tenon only parts that touch again if you need more information about making a tenon check out my video on how to make a perfect tenon okay there's a lot of rough material up here plus i also have just a portion of the pith area that's in here i want to remove all that so i'm going to make some some push cuts across the face here to clean up this material and clean up the face of this bowl blank and then get down beyond some of these cracks that may be a problem later [Applause] i can see a little bit of that pith area here that darker a darker wood and i can see that there's already a little crack right there so i am going to i'm going to go ahead and reduce this just a touch more okay so right now we have a shaped bulb blank and we know that we're going to twice turn that so when i core this i want to leave the wall thickness about 1 10 of the total diameter so i'm going to grab the tape measure and it's about 8 inches so if i were to make this a tenth of that wall thickness it's going to be about eight tenths of an inch if i come in here just a little more than three quarters of an inch it's gonna be right about there let's go ahead and mark that on the full blank so what i'm going to do is i'm going to core out the material in the center of this bowl and because i'm not really too concerned with the the form or shape of it now because it's going to dry i'm just going to go ahead and turn this out as quickly as i can just to get the material out and try to keep an even wall thickness of that eight tenths of an inch again these are these are push cuts with the bevel pointing towards the cut i've got the the bowl gouge turned at about a 45 degree angle rotated and then the handles dropped down at about a 40 45 degree angle as well and if you need to learn more about that check out my bolt bolt turning or bull gouge beginner's use video there's a lot explained in there [Music] [Music] uh got a little too aggressive with the nub there it's always good to remember that that center turns at a slower speed than the exterior now let me point out something here okay i'm going to try to put the camera here and get into position to make this cut it's not easy but i want you guys to see this angle this is basically what i'm looking at right here the when you're hollowing out a bowl to keep an even wall thickness what you want to do instead of looking in the end it's really common to want to bend over and look from the end of the lathe into the bowl as you're hollowing it but you have no idea what the thickness is instead stand up straight and look down on the turning as i make this turn i'm basically looking i can see the exterior of the bowl and i can see the general location of where the bull gouge is cutting it's also a big advantage of taking the time to make a really nice curved exterior because it's sim it's that's a simple cut to do in the interior you're going to basically make a rotating cut with the bowl gouge on the inside anyway if you have sides that go straight down and have almost a 90 degree angle you've got to do a lot of maneuvering with this tool and it's not it's just doesn't have a natural feel and the look of it isn't quite as elegant as just a nice curved bowl [Applause] [Music] [Applause] all right so this would be this is an ideal first turned roughed out bowl blank that will work great as a twice turn piece and as a matter of fact i want to show you something when you clear out the center it's kind of like a straw you ever played with straws when you're a kid and you pick up your drink you put the straw in your drink you put your thumb or your finger over the end of the straw and you lift it out you lift out all that drink with it well when you clear out the inside it's kind of like releasing the straw when you lift your finger off the straw all that liquid comes out well this is the this is the moisture coming out of the wood grain because of the back of this being released so the ingrained we have basically hollow straws on the side grain this the straws are running this way they're like this so the end grain's coming here now the trick is we need to dry this before we turn it again and as we dry it this pith area is going to move out and these sides are going to pull in but because we made this real wide we will still be able to put it back on the lathe and turn a nice true circle so guess what we're going to dry this now and i'm going to use a method with the microwave and you're going to want to check this out so let's go bring this in and microwave it okay so i've jumped in here and i've been microwaving this through short cycles of about 30 to 45 seconds and over a couple days this has become relatively dry and it's dry enough for us to go do our second turning and get a really nice true round shape that will stay that way over time if you want to learn more about microwave drying and drying in general be sure to click the link up above for this other video i have a microwave dry and check the description below because i've got a couple great articles on how to dry bulb blanks and those go into a lot more detail so check those out and we're going to jump back on the lathe and get the twice turning started on this and let's see what this thing turns out to look like okay if you've seen my other twice turning video then you've seen me use a face plate like this or a flat panel that's on a face plate the other one i have for larger bowls has a void in the middle and that's designed to hold that that raised pith area after a bull dries usually the pith will raise on some of the bigger bowls it can be really dramatic and it causes the bulb to be wobbly this one is raised just a bit but it's not horrible so i'm going to use this this simple one i have it's flat and it basically just has a piece of carpet backing or foam on it and a dedicated face plate and that's it and this would be essentially a flat jamb shop so what i'm going to do is i'm going to use the center point where the tenon was attached over the tail stock was attached earlier and line that up once that's lined up i know that i'm going to have a good rotation now keep in mind this has turned to oval 2. we know the perimeter of this is turned into an oval shape because of the drying process and so has the tenon and the shoulder so i'm going to true that up now actually before i get to that i want to show you guys something this shape of the bowl take a look at that because this is our next most important thing i want to this is again this is a rough shape i want to create a really nice elegant form here so i'm going to spend my time making this exterior just right and i'm also going to use a smaller four jaw chuck down here i had a four inch and i'm going to use the my two inch jaw chuck here before jaw chuck so that i have a smaller grip and i can work the foot now the reason i'm doing that is i'm going to shellack the entire exterior i'm going to finish the entire exterior sand it shellack it and then i'm going to ebonize it and i need to shape the side of the bowl and the outside of the foot before i can do that so i'm going to take this down because this right now i don't want the bowl to have this great big clunky foot on it so that's going to be part of what i'm doing right now i'm going to spend the time to really shape this bowl to exactly what i'm looking for let's take a look at that okay it's centered now again we've got that wobble in it so it doesn't look like it initially but it'll be centered up here in just a moment the remainder of the turning that i'm going to do i'm going to be using my main half inch 55 degree bevel swept back bowl gouge and this will be able to this this gouge will be able to handle all of the moves we need to make here for cleaning up this bowl and finishing the exterior remember the shoulders here is really extra for me right now and clean up the face here and i'm going to use my dividers to mark the new tenon okay because i'm in this end-to-end configuration i don't want to make a lot of dramatic side cuts because i could be dislodging this instead i'm going to use a push cut into the headstock it's a little bit safer that way all right and now i'm going to reestablish the shoulder underneath this new tenon the area that i'm working on right now is going to become the outside of the foot so i want to be careful with what i'm doing here and start looking at the overall shape i'm stepping aside and i'm looking at the top edge of this and from your point of view this top edge here and getting an idea of what that shape could look like hmm i have to use my detail spindle gouge for the dovetail and i'm also going to use that to shape the foot here as well just making a slightly indented angle cut to accommodate the angle of the jaws for the four jaw chuck and i'm going to undercut this lower inside corner just so that we don't have any interference there now i'm going to look at the the shoulder of the foot right now it's coming out straight like a straight cylinder i want to cut that back in just a bit i'm going to give it just a bit of angle there that's what i'm looking for okay so what i'm going to be turning here is primarily the foot area in the the bottom of the bowl up to maybe the side of the profile and at that point i'll go ahead and mount it back in the chuck and it'll work it from the other side but the exterior has to be perfect first before we can do the inside especially when we're doing a thin bowl here i'm using just a touch of a pole cut only because i can't get in there and get on the bevel very easily i'm going to try to turn around here and get on bevel so that i can get a good bevel riding cut across the surface here a push cut okay i don't want to hit that padding on our jam chuck it sounded pretty good it is good i i was hoping i just wanted to take off enough to even out the exterior so it was cutting off the high spots and basically just shaving right across the low spots i've got a little bit of cleanup here on the base and i'm going to do this i'm going to use the shear scrape to do that we'll do that now [Music] [Music] [Applause] you can see how dry that wood is now and how fine those shavings are [Music] okay i really like that shape it's very simple got a nice curve to it i'm going to go ahead and reverse this put it in the four jaw chuck finish cleaning up that outside and we're going to true it again on the chuck because if this wobbles at all and i'm doing this a thin wall then it's going to be off so i'm going to put on the truck and see how we do with that all right let's see how true this is turning it's looking pretty good i'm going to do some more shear scraping on this side get this curve and then i'm going to get that tip taken care of as well the first cut i'm going to do is to clean up that rim just give me a simple push cut so all right that's looking pretty good now i'm going to take the time to do some sheer scraping and clean up this exterior and really make it nice and smooth so that we can get our finished applied actually before that i'm going to come up here and clean up this rim because the pith areas are higher than the other parts and i want to i don't want that to be interfering with what i'm doing in the other cuts so you can see the wobble there i'm going to go ahead and clean that up right now just a simple push cut all right okay so now the rim's squared up let's go back to this and i'm going to do the shear scraping and get the exterior nice and fine-tuned [Music] okay that's looking really good it's exactly what i'd like to see and now i'm going to sand this up and get it ready for a quick layer of thin shellac and there's a good chance if i evanize this right up to the rim that i'm going to get some on top of that rim while keeping it in the truck and keeping everything nice and balanced i can come back here and just trim off anything that gets on the rim and start hollowing out the inside once we're done with the ebonizing and the outside so i'm going to sand this now and just to show you what i'll be doing i'm using a three inch foam sanding disc or pad on a angle grinder and i'm going to be going through 120 180 240 220. that's interesting 240 i've got 240 and then 320 grits until i get a nice smooth finish here and i'm not going to bore you with that part because you guys have seen that before although i am going to do a video all about sanding that will be coming out in the near future so stay tuned for that okay i'm going to put a layer of shellac on the exterior of this bowl first why would i want to do that well the reason for doing that is to prevent the we're going to use black indian ink as our ebonizing for this particular bowl i know it's going to give me a nice jet black finish and it's going to look gorgeous the problem is the end grain again are like straws and they soak up liquid i've had i've done this in the past and i've applied the indian ink to the wood raw and it soaks right through and pops out the other side and once it's done that it's going through the whole fibers of the wood there's no way to get it out so the way you do that is you prevent it from going through the holes and i'm going to use a layer of shellac on this first and i'll sand it back a bit and then we'll apply the indian ink if you want to learn how to make your own shellac go check out my other video on how to make your own shellac and as you're seeing right here it's not just for finishing this technically is for finishing the wood but it's also really more for as a tool the tool that i'm using it for right now is to seal up the ingrained fibers so they don't soak up the ink and create an effect that i really don't want for this bowl instead they're going to create a nice coat that the ink will sit on beautifully and it's going to look great this is a one pound cut meaning there's i only made a cup of this particular shellac but essentially there's a the equivalent of one pound of shellac flakes per one gallon of alcohol so again check out that video it's in my sequence how to make shellac all right this dries pretty quickly i'm going to turn the lathe on slow and we'll let this dry get it going too fast you're going to have nice spatter marks all over all right the slack on the exterior is nice and dry and i quickly sanded it with 320 grit sandpaper to take off any kind of high spots or any imperfections and that's also a great technique for preparing a surface for lacquer as you can see here i'm putting on gloves because i'll tell you what this indian ink is amazing in how it sticks to everything all right the ink you want to use for ebonizing a bowl is speed ball super black don't use anything else and there's a reason for this the main reason is the fact that this the vehicle that this is or the binder that's used for this ink is shellac and shellac is actually a great natural product and it won't fade this particular ink uses has uv protection and things of that nature it won't fade over time this is the only one as archival qualities to it and it's used for fine artwork so speed ball super black now if you notice there i only put like a couple little drops in there that's enough to paint a large a large space you'd be surprised so what i'm going to do is i'm going to start working from the interior out i kind of work aside sometimes this will fade a little bit and i'll go through and make a second coat which is nothing wrong with that i'm gonna find a place where i can set this down and rotate this i'll turn it this way there we go so i'm just gonna kind of work across this and put a nice even coat try to keep a wet edge and i'm also covering the side of that foot and probably should have taped up my four jaw chuck just to keep it protected and it'll be all right for right now and just work your way around and get a nice even coat i'm just using a cheap art brush here it doesn't have to be anything fancy you're going to want to use rubbing alcohol to clean out this brush afterwards this is interesting i had somebody ask me if they made blue indian ink and they got me into checking into it and figuring out exactly what is indian ink and essentially what indian ink is is shellac which is the binding binding agent and soot it's literal soot smoke and and i don't know where it's [Music] harvested from but it's basically smoke soot and burnt burnt material soot that's why it stains so intensely and it's so permanent i'm sure there's other ingredients in this that allow for the the uv protection in that all right so i'm going to kind of look through over this and look for wet areas where there's a little bit thick spots i want i don't want to thin those down just a little bit don't want them to get too thick on there and i'm going to let this coat dry really well once this tacks up or it starts getting a little bit drier i'm going to turn the lathe on slow so it's not puddling up on one area all right i think that's pretty good for now i'm going to turn this all the way down and get the get the lathe going and we'll let that dry okay so this is dried there's some thin areas in here and what i'm going to do is just go back over it and do another coat same exact process start one area work your way around it's gonna be a little bit thinner this time i'm not gonna try to put quite as much on just need to make sure i'm covering up all those areas now there's several different ways to ebonize wood bowls if you are interested check out my video i did a demo for our local turning club on a variety of different ways and i have a an article on several different ways to ebonize wood using indian ink is just one of those ways and it's actually a really fun technique especially if you have kind of ordinary wood or if you have wood that contrasts really well the yellowness of this mulberry is just really nice with this with the black of the of the indian ink it just gives it a really nice combination so it's just a fun different way of taking an ordinary bowl and stepping it up a couple notches try not to let that run too much again there's only like two little drops in the bottom of this cup that i poured in from the bottle over there stuff goes a very long way i will list the indian ink in the description a link to that i try to do that on all my videos if i've got different items that i'm using that are unique i will put a just a link in the descriptions to those items you can check those out so if you see anything on any of my videos that that you might be interested in just check out the description there's usually a link in the in the description all right this is getting close again i'm going to let this dry and then i'm going to buff it a little bit with a 4-odd steel wool and that's going to help take down any high spots but before i can do that this has to dry thoroughly so we're going to let that take place which i get this last little section here and then after that we're going to turn out the interior all right that's looking pretty good smooth out some of those higher spots now i'm going to be putting an oil finish over the entire bowl when i'm done but for right now i need this to dry really well okay so i'm going to turn that on low and we'll let that dry and we'll come back in just a bit okay so the outside of the bowl is all ebonized i don't want to go back out there and do anything i don't want to shape it or anything obviously because it's going to take that off now what i'm going to do and here's what i was talking about you see how the ink came across on the rim i'm going to trim this rim down just a little bit i'm going to work the rim shape across here first and then i'm going to start working down into the bowl steps at a time and as i go down i'm not going to come back out i'm just going to continue working down until i have the full shape of the bowl finished so the first thing i'm going to do is get this rim set up i'm closing the flute to three o'clock let me get my lathe speed up here now i want to check and make sure there's no visible ink on that edge and now that looks really good i've got a nice crisp black edge coming right up to the wood and that's exactly what i'm looking for so now what i'm going to do is i'm going to do a an inside cut that's going to start establishing the thickness of the wall now remember the inside of this is not balanced because it was contracted we've already trued up the exterior but the inside has not been trued up so we're going to hear a little bit of clicking in that from the different depths of wood okay so what i'm doing is i'm making sure that my tool is really sharp i just went ahead and sharpened this bowl gouge and again this is my swept back 55 degree bevel bowl gouge if you want to learn more about shaping your bowl gouge and sharpening them be sure to check out my tool sharpening for wood bull turning e-course on my website there's a link down in the description as well so what i'm doing is i'm i'm keeping the the bevel parallel with the exterior of the bulb i'm looking from top down on this bowl i'm not looking down into the into the center of the bowl is that i'm looking down and i'm trying to line up this the angle of this bevel with the exterior of the bowl so that they're parallel i'm thinking that's going to be my thickness of the bowl right there so now i'm going to remove some more material as i work down it's kind of taking a a step back and looking at this and trying to figure out if that's the thickness i might go just a hair thinner than that i'm going to remove a little bit more material below that and i'm going to make one pass from top to bottom bring the speed up just a bit i'm going to make this will be my finished thickness wall thickness right here the best calipers you have are your hands take your index finger and your thumb and determine the thickness all the way down this feels nice and even all the way to about right here and it starts getting a little bit thicker right here which is fine because that's what i would expect at this point so that's going to be our wall thickness i'm going to continue working through the base of the bowl if you've heard of the abcs of wood bull turning or of wood turning you may want to check out my video called the ahbc's of wood bull turning that's what i'm using right here is i'm basically i'm letting the heel touch and then i'm picking up my cut and then i'm proceeding when you're doing this and you're and you want to keep it really precise stop frequently and use those super precise calipers right there and you can see exactly where you need to be making more cuts or a little bit more refinements okay that's feeling really good i'm going to continue down into the bowl i'm going to switch out for my curved tool rest if you want to learn more about tool rest check out my tool rest video and these are robust tools tool rests and they are just fantastic for doing this type of work just in general because they're they're always where you want them and they don't slide around that's my favorite part of them all right so i'm just going to keep working another inch or so [Applause] that's feeling good right there it's getting a little bit thicker this is a really interesting opportunity here to show you this if you see these lines if you have grain lines going like this through your piece there's a chance that if you've got tool marks or if there's a thick area or a thin area like right here there's there's an area that's it's really subtle it can be more than a sixty fourth of an inch higher right here than it is here but these grain lines will tell you that check that out you see how these they kind of move right there now sometimes it's the it's the pattern in the wood but in this case it's actually the cut i'm just a little bit a little bit thick there i can come back and try to fix that of course it's getting really nitpicky and that honestly i'm not going to now i think about it because that's only it's literally like a 64th of an inch at if that and i'm if i go back and start fussing with it there's a chance i'm going to go down deeper in another area so i'm not going to do that i'm going to continue what i'm doing here and finish the base of this bowl [Applause] [Music] okay you want to make sure we keep that thickness all the way down and it is getting thicker starting right here so i'm going to make a couple more [Music] passes see how that looks all right that feels really good i need to drop the tool rest here now you want the the portion of the bowl gouge that's actually doing the cutting which in this case is going to be the the front right corner of the of the bowl gouge tip you want that to be cutting right on the center line especially when you get to the middle of the bowl okay so i can see there that the this the space in this in the center of the bowl is relatively flat i want this to curve and match the rest of the bowl so it's got to be concave just a hair so i'm going to pick up this cut out here rub the heel lift the handle make bevel contact we've got to go really slow here because we don't want to pull out fibers we want to make a cut here not pulling out fibers that's it now let's use the hands calipers that feels really good okay i'm going to sand this out now [Music] now what i'm going to do is i'm going to apply my favorite wood bowl finish which is tried and true original this is linseed oil and beeswax check out my video on that if you haven't seen it already and this application couldn't possibly be any simpler basically going to take this piece of old t-shirt that i have inside this jar and i'm going to squeegee out all the excess the amount that needs to be applied is very minimal now one thing we do need to be aware of with this bowl which is pretty special is the fact that that indian ink is on the exterior of it still so what i'm going to do is i'm going to apply everything to the interior first and then apply the exterior so if any comes off on my application cloth here it won't get on the clean wood itself so all we need to do is create a nice thin coat if it's if you can sense that there is oil on the wood you have enough there that's how the application process is described to me from the people that make this and then what's going to happen is in an hour i'm going to come back and wipe off any excess because you don't want any thick areas if you have if you've ever applied this and it's kind of turned tacky or sticky it's because you've applied too much so in an hour i'm going to come back and wipe off any excess and then tomorrow i'm going to run this on the lathe with the four odd steel wool and burnish the finish after it's set for 24 hours so there is the ebonized two-tone mulberry and black bowl very very simple now i haven't taken the tenon off this yet i'm gonna do that tomorrow i'm leaving the tenon on there so that i can put it back on the lathe and burnish the finish before i turn that tenon off but if you want to learn how to turn off a tenon check out my video on tenon removal you see that my playlist i hope you've enjoyed this i i'm putting together i'm putting together some of these videos they're a little bit longer because they show a lot of different techniques that go together such as the microwave driving drying the twice turning the ebonizing the the way i'm shaping these bowls how i'm using different tenons and things of that nature that's how i learned i saw other people doing things like this and it i had a lot of aha moments and it was it was it was nice i mean that's that's how i was able to pick up most of the things that i've learned so let me know what you think about that these longer videos if they work for you let me know leave me a comment below i'd greatly appreciate that i'm also making shorter format videos on specific topics because again i never saw that when i was learning i never saw somebody showing specifically how to do some of the things with bowl gouges and other turning aspects like that a lot of times the title said they would but then you'd watch the video and they'd basically just turn a whole bull and it was kind of confusing as to what they were trying to teach so let me know what you think of that i'm kind of got a mix i've got i've got more specific videos going on on certain topics and then i've got some longer format i'm calling them start to finish videos where i'm showing you where i start from a piece of wood and turn into a two-tone ebonized mulberry bowl things of that nature so let me know what you think of that and like my video if you haven't already if you do like it of course i mean that's what i'm hoping you do that's why i'm doing these videos and if you're not already subscribing please subscribe i really need you to click that subscribe button and click the bell and that way you're going to get informed as soon as a new video comes out and i've got tons of great more videos coming out so as i always like to say when i finish these videos until next time happy turning [Music] you

Channel: Turn A Wood Bowl

Views: 382,843

Rating: 4.8688416 out of 5

Keywords: Woodturning Log to Bowl Twice-Turned Ebony Mulberry Wood Bowl, woodturning log to bowl, log to bowl, bowl turning on a lathe, woodworking projects that make money, bowl turning videos, wood bowl making, wood bowl turning videos, how to turn a bowl, wood turning a log into a bowl, wood lathe, wood bowl, wood turning, wood turning log into bowl, woodturning bowl, bowl turning, wood turning videos, woodturning log, turning green wood, making a bowl, wood lathe turning

Id: RvULhYwQbG0

Length: 57min 53sec (3473 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 03 2020