Life-Changing Lidded Wood Bowl Turning — Very Special Video

today we're turning much more than a bowl [Music] [Laughter] [Music] hello i'm kent and welcome to turn a wood bowl today we're going to make a bowl like none you've turned before this bull is going to have purpose and meaning is going to be an heirloom it's going to be a repository a journal it has so much meaning you can't even fathom it nor will you ever fully understand it you might be thinking what is he talking about well i got to tell you i'm excited and i want to challenge you to make a bowl like i'm going to demonstrate today and you can do your own style you can change it a bit or however you want i'm going to give you an example of how i'm going to make one of these bowls but these bowls are designed to be given away to the folks over at beads of courage now i've got to admit i've seen the beads of courage logo and i've seen their little flyers and that i haven't really taken the time to fully understand the program until recently our local turning club had a mother of a child that spoke with us about beads of courage and the program and how it's helped her her son and her whole family essentially what beads of courage is it's a it's a process for families of children that have cancer to document their journey their whole process from the time that they're diagnosed through all of their treatments and their hospitalizations and all of the trials and tribulations and the successes and what they have it's pretty interesting they have different beads that have different meanings there's beads for office visits to doctors there's beads for having transfusions there's beads for pretty much anything and what a lot of people do is they'll actually string these beads onto a line that and it becomes this chronological diary of the whole journey that these families go through and it's pretty spectacular and what beads of courage is is asking woodturners to do is to turn bowls that can be donated to these families so they can use them as a special place to hold their beads and have them in a special container so that they can go back to them and see them and add to them and remember this whole process so this is a pretty important bowl i know myself i sell bulls and i give bowls to friends and family and that's very rewarding to be able to do that but this is a whole different level and i want to challenge you to step up and make one of these bowls or many of these bowls if you'd like and like i said i'm going to show you the process of how i'm going to make a bowl there's a variety of different ways there's very very basic requirements that they ask for and i will be explaining those throughout this demo but i want to see if you guys can do this with me if you can make a bowl like this and either donate it to the national beads of courage program or find a local chapter in a local hospital that will accept your donation now they do have a little bit of formalities and an application they ask you to fill out online i'm going to put links to the beads of courage program down in the description below so be sure to check that out and i hope that you guys take a moment to turn a bowl that you can donate to somebody you'll probably never know the full story you'll never know the full impact that bull will have but you can imagine that bowl is going to be very meaningful to that family okay let's talk about the bowl itself i'm using a bowl blank here it's about nine inches in diameter this is black cherry that i got from my brother aaron thank you aaron i greatly appreciate that and this bull blank was cut several months ago it's kind of equalized or dry but it's not completely dry which brings up an important topic i get a lot of comments for people saying things like they're waiting for their wood to dry completely before they turn it you don't need to do that as a matter of fact that's going to be a more of a struggle to turn completely dry wood you're going to have a little bit more difficult cutting it or difficulty cutting it and it's it's not as fun as a process of turning green wood the greener the wood the better actually as far as turning what we need to realize is we can turn wood whether it's completely soaking wet middle of the road kind of dry a little bit wet like this piece is or completely dry each one of those turning processes is going to yield a different result the wetter the wood is if we once turn it or turn it to its final size the more it's probably going to distort or deform the drier it is it probably won't distort or or deform but we can turn wet wood in a rough form dry it or allow it to dry and then come back and twice turn it and have a nice round shape that's probably not going to distort too much and that's what we're going to do with this piece while there's a little bit of moisture in it if i turn it and we're going to actually have a lid on this as well if i turn it with that lid it'll be great for the beginning when i get done turning it but after a period of time it may it may distort a bit and then that lid might not fit properly so what i'm going to do is i'm going to rough turn this we're going gonna dry it i'm gonna show you the microwave technique which is very quick technique it'll take a day or two but it's it's a technique that works very well for doing a project like this and then we'll final turn the piece and we'll have this beautiful bowl at the end that we can give to a family for beads of courage and that's going to be very exciting so let's go ahead and get started i'm going to take this bowl blank and i'm going to attach a face plate to start roughing this shape okay i'm going to start by marking the center of the bowl blank i measure across the bowl blank a couple different angles mark the center and i'll go ahead and mount the face plate now this bowl blank is about nine and a half inches wide the final bowl needs to have an interior that is six inches in diameter and five inches deep that's what beads of courage would like to see they will allow down to a five inch diameter and four inches of depth so you want to start with a decent sized bowl blank so you've got plenty of material to work with and because this is rough cut right now we need to true it up so that we can see what our total final size will be so i'm going to get this mounted to the lathe on the faceplate and there's some loose bark on here you always want to get that loose bark off right away because it's clearly going to come off on its own and it's going to go flying so it's a good way to prevent an accident by getting that off early now i'm going to clear the bark area of this piece to create a flat surface so i can put a tenon on this end of the bull blank i'm using my 5 8 inch swept back bowl gouge this has a 55 degree bevel i have two versions of this bull gap they have this larger one which is a 5 8 inch and i have a half inch one that i use for finishing cuts the 5 8 inch bowl gouge i'm using right now i use this for roughing cuts and for cleaning up material i'm just trying to get a surface area smoothed out that's wide enough so that i can mark where the tenon will be and start shaping that location i'm going to pull the tail stock up for support but it's also going to give me a good mark at the center bottom of the bowl that i'm going to use later to realign now the project that we're working on right now is a bit challenging because we're going to be coming and going with bull blanks later in this process i'm going to be mounting things and unmounting them so the more references that we have to make a good clean mount each time the better and that little mark from the tail stock is going to be very helpful here i'm marking the the width of the tenon and i'll go ahead and trim the area away for the tenon and then i'm going to trim the shoulder area i like to establish the tenon and the shoulder right away as soon as possible because that's a very defining location for the bowl this is going to be the base of the bowl and i also make a shoulder and a tenon relatively deep so that i have extra meat or material that i can use later to shape the foot or if i have some kind of issue going on and inside the bowl i've got extra meat on the bottom of this bowl that i can i can work with now i'm just rounding the corners of this now this wood is it's not green green meaning it wasn't just recently cut but it has moisture in it so we need to dry this before we final turn it so this turning right now is just a rough turning we're just trying to create a rough shape with even wall thickness and we're going to go ahead and dry that with a microwave which you're going to see in just a minute so right now i'm just even evening up the exterior of this bowl and creating a little bit of that curved transition from the side wall to the bottom of the bowl but i'm not really dealing too much with the design at this point just using uh the bottom wing there is a kind of a quick scraping cut to level off the top so i can see where the top edge of this bowl may appear and just doing a nice simple push cut you can see how the tip of the bull gouge is turned at about a uh the two o'clock position if the flute is straight up i'm at about the 1 30 or 2 o'clock position as i'm progressing and now that i have the side nice and straight i can bring this curve around and really tie the two together the bottom of the bowl and curve that right into the side of the bowl i'm going to use my 3 8 inch spindle detail gouge to tidy up the dovetail of the tenon i want the dovetail angle to be really crisp and i need that shoulder to be nice and smooth i also need that inside corner which i'm cleaning up right there to be extra clean so that it seats really well in the four jaw chuck there's a little mark that i mentioned earlier that's at the bottom of this bowl we'll use that as a reference point later and that's going to be very helpful so i'll go ahead and remove the face plate and then i'm going to mount this in the four jaw chuck and we'll start cleaning out the material in the center of it now when we dry this and we do a twice turning like this this first turning what's really important is that we keep the wall thickness even throughout there you can see how how tight that shoulder seats on top of those jaws i've got a little pith area here that i really don't want to leave in the bowl so i'm going to go ahead and remove some of that material i'm using my larger bowl gouge this is the 5 8 inch swept back 55 degree bevel bowl gouge and i'm just going to make a few push cuts across here and clear off that material so i remove those those center pith areas there's going to be tension there and it's got a good chance for forming cracks later on and i don't want those to form so i'm looking at my depth of the bowl it's about four and a half inches i'm kind of getting a little short there the bull itself is nine inches wide now i want to make the wall thickness one tenth of the diameter so it's going to be about nine tenths of an inch or about seven eighths of an inch so i'm going to mark this and that will be the thickness of the walls for this and this is going to be just for drying so i'm simply going to remove this material so that we have good even walls from the top rim all the way through the bottom i want those walls to be even so that the moisture can escape easily the other thing by opening this up and turning the interior and the shape the rough shape we're creating more surface area for that moisture that's deep down inside this bowl blank to escape it makes it that much easier for the moisture to leave the bowl evenly that's what's really critical if we have too much moisture in one area or if we have a really thick wall and a really thin wall well the moisture is going to leave the thin wall before the thick wall and then there's added tensions and that's when cracking occurs so when you can make those walls evenly thick throughout that's your best scenario again i'm not doing anything for aesthetics right now simply just trying to create even walls and a wall thickness that's about one or about ten percent of the overall diameter of the bowl and this is black cherry this is a beautiful wood both to turn and to experience afterwards because this is it just it's just a great wood to turn it has almost like a porcelain feel to it after it's been sanded and finished okay so i'm going to take my second bowl blank and this is going to be used for the lid i'm going to attach the face plate just like i did with the first bubbling then i'm going to attach this to the lathe and i'm going to clean up that bark area now i've sped this up a little bit because we're pretty much just repeating the same thing we did on the previous turning so i'm cleaning off an area that's large enough so that i can mark the tenon i'm gonna mark the tenon i'm gonna shape the tenon and then i'm gonna shape the foot now this is gonna be essentially an upside down bowl this is gonna be the lid and i'm making the shoulder on this a little bit deeper than normal because that shoulder and the tenon area will be turned into the handle later on the curve i'm making is the top lid or the top of this bowl structure i'm using a scraping cut there just to quickly remove material again we're still just rough turning this i've got a big knot there that's got soft material in it that's going to be a problem that i have to deal with later so i'm going to take this off and i'm going to reverse it i'm going to mount it in the truck now after taking the faceplate off if you're enjoying this video do me a huge favor and click that like button below the screen it helps this video and it helps the whole channel and i greatly appreciate it and i appreciate you thank you very much all right so with the lid mounted in the four jaw chuck i realize there's some areas of this blank that are not in so great shape so i'm basically just turning this excess material that's not so great out of the way it's kind of a waste of material but it's it's a quick way to get down to the shape that i need all right now that i'm down to the thickness of the bowl itself i'm going to start turning out the interior of that of the lid and again i just want this to be evenly thick so i'm going to follow the outside convex curve with an inside concave curve so the overall thickness of this piece is pretty even this is going to be left relatively relatively thick for the time being okay so now we have the lid portion turned this is our first turning and now it's time to dry these so let's take them inside all right the first thing i want to do is i want to weigh these i use a postal scale and i switch it over to grams grams is going to give me a really easy measurement to measure i'm going to measure the lid and the bowl separately and i'm going to keep track of that each time i come in and dry these the bowls starting out at 1388 grams now i start conservative i'm only the first microwave time i'm going for about 25 seconds and i found that that barely warmed up the bowl so i increased it and got it up to 60 seconds you can see right there i'm using a little block of wood to elevate those and that block of wood is going to out allow air movement to move through there and and let these evaporate you don't want to cook the bowl that's not the purpose what we're trying to do is coax the moisture out we're just warming it up and then we're letting these air cool and while they air cool that moisture is going to evaporate off of the bowl you're just going to want to do this over a period of time i do it whenever i think of it maybe eight ten times a day for a couple days the ideal situation is to have no weight change when you're done and that's not always possible but if you get done doing this and let them sit for like a week and you see no weight change your bulls equalized here you can see how all the weights changed i did this 21 times and you can see how the the weight changed of each of the bulls all right so i'm going to bring them out to the lathe again now you can see how the rims aren't lining up because there's been some shift in the drying process i'm going to get my flat jam chuck i mount these to the wall using this mount that glenn lucas sells i'll put a link in my description below and you can check that out it makes it pretty handy to keep them out of the way on mounted to the wall so i'm going to start with the the bowl first and that little pin hole from the tail stock before is going to help me line this up very quickly i'm just going to put the pin right back in that same hole and then pin it up against the jamb chuck that's a piece of carpet padding that yellow portion that has been spray mounted to the plywood it's a very simple jam chuck that you can make now i'm going to do a push cut with my half inch 55 degree bevel swept back bowl gouge just to clean up that tenon i just want to take off the high spots of the tenon the tenon has shaped from perfectly round to a little bit oval i'm also going to scrape the surface of the shoulders to clean those up and then i'm going to come back in with my 3 8 inch spindle detail gouge to clean up that inside corner and the dovetail angle make sure those are nice and crisp with the tenon cleaned up now i can start shaping the exterior of the bowl if you look at the side of the bowl you can see it's wobbling well that's the shift that's occurred during the drying process if i had just turned this bowl normal or once and then just left it dry on its own it would have shifted like that and would have that that distortion in the final bowl instead that distortion has taken place and now i'm re-trueing the bowl and i'm going to have a nice clean round surface that shouldn't change much shape now i can only work so close up to that jam chuck i'm trying to get as much of this area that i can from this angle because the bottom of the bowl is nicely exposed at the moment this is a shear scrape i have the bull gouge handle down at about a 45 degree angle and i'm using the lower wing just to shave the top surface of that wood i've got a video all about shear scraping if you want to check that out i'll put a link up in the corner all right so with the tenon squared up and the bottom of the bowl started to be shaped i'm going to go ahead and take this jam chuck off and mount it in the four jaw chuck i've got some cracking that occurred on one side of the end grain that side of the log was exposed and i'm going to have to deal with that in just a minute okay i'm going to use a scraping cut this is kind of a cross between a scraping cut and a shear scrape what i'm doing is i'm removing material that's on the high spot now that we're mounted in the four jaw chuck that will be the only way this bowl will be mounted again until the very end so the more time i take here to true this up and make it nice and crisp and smooth the better the better this bowl is going to turn out the chatter that you might be hearing there is are the high spots coming around now i'm going to work from the rim down i want this bowl to be a closed rim style bowl what that means is the rim diameter will be smaller than the widest part of the bowl in order to do a supported grain cut you'll start from the rim up to that high spot if you want to learn more about what direction to cut with the bull gouge i have a video all about that you're really going to want to watch that if you haven't quite grasped that whole concept it's super important for turning and you're going to need to know what direction to to turn and i highly recommend checking out this video because it's going to be very helpful for you all right so i've got a little bit of a high spot there and i'm going to use a scraping cut just to kind of work that edge down now i've said this before and it's still very very important the exterior of the bowl is the bowl for all intents and purposes that's what we see that's what we feel that's what we touch everything so you want to take your time and make the exterior of the bowl just right and the scraping cut and the shear scraping cut are a great way to just very subtly make minor adjustments to that shape and you can see i'm just taking that high spot off okay now here look at the interior of this you can see how the end grain moved out and those ingrained walls are thinner than the side grain they're thick so the outside has been trued up but you can see how the inside moved during the drying process now we're going to true that up as well i'm going to do a light push cut you really want to make sure the bowl gouge is at a 90 degree angle here so you don't get a skip back and then you're going to basically do a push cut down into the pole follow the curve of the exterior that's another reason why the exterior of the bowl is so important is essentially the interior of the bowl just follows the exterior you'll want to apply extra down force to the tool rest if your bowl gouge is extended out beyond the tool rest like it is here this is my half inch 55 degree bevel swept back bowl gouge and we want this bowl to be relatively sturdy i'm going to have about a half inch wall thickness on this entire bowl you have to keep in mind that there's going to be children that are going to be playing with this bowl and holding it and it's potentially going to be dropped so really don't want this to be a very thin bowl or something that's delicate that's also one of the requirements for beads of courage is they want to make sure that you have a good foot on this that's wide enough that it can stand well and doesn't get knocked over very easy and they also want the lid to be easy easily opened by a child so we don't want any kind of tight fitting or snap fitting lids so it's this is going to be a relatively durable bowl it's about a half inch thick it's going to have a little bit of weight to it but it's not going to be super heavy now let's address those cracks what i use is i use titebond 3 which is a waterproof glue and i simply put it over a crack and press it down into that crack and then wipe away any excess and i only work a small area at a time and then you take sandpaper and you vigorously sand with the grain this is 120 grit sandpaper and i'm sanding with the grain when i first learned this technique i thought well there's no way this is going to work and all my previous experience with wood glue was you apply it and you clamp your wood down and you wait a day to get to it and i'm thinking i'm not waiting until tomorrow to finish turning this i want to i want to turn this now and the person that showed this to me gary he he had uh he just smiled the whole time he goes you're gonna love this so basically you press it down in there and what and then you sand it and what's happening is the friction from sanding dries the top layer of the glue and you also make this really fine dust that blends in with the glue so this crack almost becomes camouflaged right before your eyes which is incredible so for small cracks i highly recommend using this technique take your time make sure you sand with the grain so you don't make a bunch of scratch marks and then you can continue with your regular sanding and those little cracks will just blend right in you won't even see them so what i do is i sand with the lathe running first and then i'll turn the lathe off and i will sand with the grain to take away any any additional scratch marks that were made while i was going with the lathe running and then i'll repeat this process through the grits i usually start at 120 or 180 and then i'll go through 180 240 and 320. i do the same thing with the interior with the lathe running do not go across the center you want to turn this or sand the center with the lathe off if you go across the center you're basically going to sand before and after the center and you're going to make like a little valley there and you don't want that so you sand the center like this with the lathe off if you want to learn more about sanding i got a video about that go check that out you're going to enjoy that because there's sanding doesn't have to be that big of a problem all right so you can see here i've got a slight inward angle on that rim and the reason for that is i want the lid to seat really well down on that and appear closed when it comes down i'm also going to use this pin and i'm going to mark one of these slots on the jaws so that i can see exactly which jaw to line up and where to line up the tenon next time i put this in the in the chuck so like i said before we're going to be taking these in and out frequently so i'm going to switch back over to the jam chuck and i'm going to do the same thing with the lid now that it's been dried we're going to true up that tenon and turn a little bit of the top surface and then we'll go ahead and mount this in the chuck as well so what happens is the kids that receive these beads i can't even i can't even begin to comprehend this they're they're going through almost a living hell they've got doctors visits and hospital stays and treatments and all sorts of stuff i mean the amount of of the amount that these kids go through is astronomical some of these children have hundreds and up to and beyond a thousand beads they receive a bead for pretty much every accomplishment or everything that they go through during their journey journey but most of the time if you think about like an office visit that's a that's a bead one bead and these kids have hundreds of these beads so this is kind of it's great idea i mean it's a great way to document the their whole process and and be able to kind of grasp the magnitude of it and i'm sure for a family and for parents it's got to be just overwhelming and after a month or two of doing this you must be thinking wow when is it going to end number one and you probably forget about all the things you've been through so this is a great way and a great program that's been established to help people really realize what what they've accomplished and all they've gone through on their journey now i did mention at the beginning that this is for kids with cancer but that's also kids with serious illnesses other than cancer as well that that can be part of the beads of courage program so that this container basically travels with the child and the family and they can take it to the doctor's office to the hospital so this this bowl is going to get used so we want it to be durable we want it to be something that looks nice and is it should be a piece of artwork but it also has to be functional and it has to be able to withstand a little bit of abuse in case it gets knocked over or something like that okay so i'm trueing up the inside rim of the lid and then the inside of the lid itself now and i don't want to go too deep with the inside of this lid at the moment because i don't really know exactly how this is going to merge with the rest of the bowl so i've left plenty of meat on this lid so that i can turn it and be able to adjust it as i go i'm essentially going to be sneaking up on different sizes and hopefully matching them as best as possible i want to get a nice concave curve inside this bowl and the bowl is still really thick it's about three quarters of an inch thick and i'm going to leave it like that for now because i still have to to turn the exterior and i need to take a couple of these tool marks out i'm going to make a light finishing pass here you can see how open that flute is it's almost at 12 o'clock i'm just barely using a little bit of that edge to clean up that surface and take those tool marks out all right i'm looking at these two and their inside diameters are matching up you know i've got this circle template and i thought this would work out great for turning blanks at the bandsaw and it never really worked out for that but wow does this clear template work great for this situation i can see the inside diameter size of the bowl and then i can see the inside diameter of the lid and they're almost exactly the same which means i've got to make a lip on the bowl and that's part of the reason why i marked that foot so i can remount this very easily and make sure it's good and true so what i need to do here is i need to make a an inside groove or lip it's almost like a rabbit joint a woodworking rabbit joint and i really need to keep that bowl gouge in a 90 degree angle unfortunately i'm not and when you don't have that bull gouge at a 90 degree angle when you're pushing in you get a little skip back sometimes just like that it's not going to be a major problem but what i'm going to do is i'm going to clean that up with my 3 8 inch spindle detail gouge now remember a spindle gouge on a side grain mounted bowl like this one is an absolute no-no as far as removing large amounts of material for doing little detail work like i'm doing right here is perfect because it's got a long pointed nose and i can get down into that groove and i can make a really nice crisp corner that's all i needed for right there i'm not removing large amounts of material okay so we've got that groove established now i can take that back off and i'm going to go ahead and put the lid back on and i'm lining that up as well to make sure that i've got a good mark there so i'm going to go ahead and turn a little bit and then i'm going to test it and i'm going to size it actually let me let me size this up and i can see that my mark needs to be at seven and a half inches and the cool thing about this template it's got a hole on it i'll tell you what i'm going to put a link to this and everything that i use in this video in the description below so you're going to want to check that out i also have recommended equipment on my website you can go to turn it wood bull.com forward slash gear and you can see all my recommended equipment there all right so i'm going to use a push cut to cut down to that line and then i'm going to push in from the side and crispen up that edge a little bit and let's see what fits perfect it fits and we've got a little bit of wiggle room again we're not trying to make a tight snap fit lid we just want it to sit there and not fall off all right this little knot which i'm kind of concerned with has got really soft rotted material in the middle i need to get all of that out of there i'm using a little dental pick i'll actually have that in the description below if you're interested in it it's great for getting any debris out just like this so i want to clean that out really good yeah i didn't mark the lid yet i'm going to go ahead and mark the lid and i'm going to put a little bit different symbol on this side of the jaw so i know which one's the lid and which one's the bowl okay i'm going to use a small piece of gaffer's tape gaffer's tape is like magic if you think duct tape is good uh you probably have never tried gaffer's tape gaffers tape is amazing i'll have a link for that in the description gaffer's tape is kind of like duct tape except it's more adhesive and it is uh it leaves no residue you can actually pull the tape off and it's going to leave no residue we'll i'll show you again we're going to use it again in this this is a five minute epoxy that i'm using it's a two-part epoxy and i'm gonna add some mica powder this is a it's called bora bora blue i'll put a link in the description i'm going to mix this up really good make sure both parts are mixed really really well i'm going to use this to fill that knot and remember i've got the tape on the inside of this that's that's holding that and so it doesn't just run through and i'm using the roll of tape underneath to kind of lift it but it needs to be lifted up a little bit more there you can see the benefit of using the tape as a little workstation you can just peel it up and throw it away okay so i'm going to mount the bowl again into the four jaw chuck and this time it's actually acting as a jam chuck not only is it a bowl but it's a jam chuck so i'm going to use the little pin hole from the tail stock and line up the lid and i'm going to apply a little pressure to it and hold that in place and now it's time to turn the lid and start to shape it i wanted to show you guys this particular viewpoint so you can see exactly what i'm doing i'm taking the lid and i'm trying to conform the shape so that it blends in to the bowl underneath and i'm going to take my time i'm not going to rush this process again this is the exterior of the bowl this is the most critical part of the bowl now and this is a lid i don't do a lot of lids but the lid is obviously going to be seen even more than the bowl because it's up on top so you really want to take your time and and work this very slow and get the shape you're looking for so i'm making really light pushing cuts here and i'm just slowly creeping up on the diameter of the bowl underneath not quite there but it's getting there so i'm going to use some scraping cuts and some shear scraping cuts to remove very light amounts of material the scrape cut which is a little more aggressive than the shear scraping cut is ideal for this because you're removing super thin amounts of wood at a time and it gives you a lot of control now as i'm watching this i've i've shown you guys in the past this technique but i'm not looking so much at the tool i'm looking at the other side of the bowl at the profile kind of like what you're seeing right here when you're looking at the top of this bowl i'm looking at the top of the bowl as well and i'm watching the curve of the lid and i'm i want to just blend that fluidly into the curve of the bowl underneath right now i'm not worried about that shoulder and the tenon i still need to use the tenon for another purpose you'll see in a minute so i can't turn that away but i'm just going to get the curve of that lid right where i want it this is looking really good a little bit of a high spot there you can see just slowly taking it down and the shear scrape is the way to finish up the surface like this it's going to leave that surface super smooth it's going to allow me to start sanding it 180 sometimes i can start sanding at 240 is so smooth because i'm just gently shaving a light layer away it'll take out any tool marks it does a great job here you can see the shear scrape this is this is actually a little high i've got the handle up a little bit high for a sheer square this is like a again a cross between a scraping cut and a shear scrape shear scrape the handles drop more like at about a 45 degree angle now i'm looking up above my tool across the top of this bowl to see the overall curve of that into make sure that i'm blending the shape the way i want all right it's looking really good okay now i'm going to take a scraping tool and i'm going to make a little bit of a relief mark here the reason i'm doing this is the way that the lid and the bowl come together is this perfect tight fit well there's a good chance that over time this is going to shift a little bit and that perfect tight fit is going to be really obvious if it's not if it's not matching if it's off just a hair it's going to become a problem when you make a little bit of a relief scrape like that then it gives a little bit more visual room for there to be play in the finish of that joint okay so i've got the outside of the the lid shape the thickness is looking good i don't need that tape anymore on the inside so i'm going to take that off and now i'm going to switch take the bowl off and put the lid back into the four jaw chuck i got to make sure i line it up to the same location now beads of courage has have beads that you can place in the bowl i measured this to be a little bit less than 7 8 of an inch in diameter and this bead can be put anywhere in the bowl i'm going to put this one on the inside of the lid you can put them in the foot you can put them on the side of the bowl i've seen some i've seen some up on the side of the lid on the outside you could put it pretty much anywhere and you don't have to have the bead in there but it's kind of cool and i'll put a link in the description with the other beads of courage information so that you can order those beads if you want they come in a package of 25 which is pretty ambitious to make 25 of these bowls but that would be amazing if you could so i just did a quick little test to make sure everything's about right now i'm going to cut the total depth of this piece yeah if everybody did 25 of these bowls that would be pretty impressive but if you know people that turn they can they can you can share those with them the bead is a little bit proud of that hole but i think that's going to be fine for what we're doing so now i'm going to sand the interior of the lid and i'll go through all the grits with these again 180 240 and 320 and i'm going to check the depth of this and make sure i'm not getting into any trouble and i got plenty of room there so that beads nowhere near where i'm going to be putting a handle so that's that's exactly what i'm looking for so now i'm going to remount i'm going to put the bowl slash jam chuck back into the four jaw chuck and i'm gonna have it hold the lid and use the tail stock to center to the little point that's in the tenon on the lid and now i'm going to use the secret weapon this is the gaffer's tape and this is where the gaffer's tapes works really well if you've seen any of my other videos you know i use this sometimes and it's great for holding pieces together so i'm going to use this to hold the lid to the bowl it does a great job of holding and i don't have to worry about there be gummy sticky tape residue later we no longer need this tenon and the shoulder so i'm going to start removing them and i'm going to slowly just work this down and i'm going to merge the area that i get down to with the curve of the top of the lid now you could just turn all of this away and drill a small hole there and then turn a separate handle for the lid and then insert that into the hole and glue it in there i'm just choosing to do it this way to to have it all as one piece to have the handle part of the lid and keep it all together so turn a little bit after section like that bring it down and then gently with a scraping cut merge the top those surfaces together so they curve all together and they flow together with the convex curve of the top of the lid just want to make gentle push cuts these are all going towards the headstock which puts little stress on the wood we have the tail stock here for support but we don't want there to be any issues with the lid getting jostled inside the mount for the bowl so we're just going to make light cuts and if you're making a pushing cut in towards the headstock that's usually very very gentle on the piece of wood if i ever make a sideways cut across that then it was going to be an issue with the lid sliding inside its joint so you want to stop sometimes and take a look at this and feel it if you're going to do something like this we're going to turn the handle right into it have it give it a feel and see if it feels right this that felt a little big so i'm going to make it just a bit smaller again i'm going to take those surfaces and just lightly with the shear scrape blend them all together so we get a nice fluid curve across the top of that lid we've got to keep in mind that there's going to be children opening this so it needs to be small for their hand as well so you can't be too big also if you if you end up adding a handle to it you don't want to make a big decorative long finial they they don't recommend doing that they don't they don't want to have uh long pieces on it or very delicate pieces again they don't it shouldn't be fragile it shouldn't be potentially dangerous if you want to keep your handles were small and compact so with it attached to the lathe and the tail stock there for support i'm going to go ahead and sand that whole surface again i'll go through all the grits and make sure that's sanded as i'm looking at that i'm really not happy with this little rounded inside corner so i'm going to tighten that up with my 3 8 inch spindle detail gouge and make that just a nice crisp crisp inside corner there just make light light push cuts with the spindle detail gouge and get right down into those corners now the top of the handle i want it to have a convex curve that is parallel and matches the curve of the lid itself so i'm making a pushing cut and i'm starting on the side and kind of coming up i need to make sure that i remove enough material that i can sand away that little nub in the middle or the little hole where that that the tail stock made right there now i have no tail stock support i'm just making a really light scraping cut here to take that little nub down all right that's looking pretty good i'm going to sand that i'm going to use the sander to round over that top corner as well see how the top of the handle mimics the shape of the lid that's a good design practices have shapes that mimic one another and the side angle of that handle also matches the curve of the bottom of the bowl okay so now it's time to reverse the bowl and we'll get that foot shaped on that so i'm going to use a jam chuck to do that this is a jam check i've had laying around and it's a little out of true so i'm going to just quickly turn the front end of this to true it up now you don't want to turn this into a point if you turn it to a point then you're only going to get a connection with the bottom center of the bowl and that's potentially going to wobble around and cause problems so what you do is you have either a flat spot across the front or a little bit of a concave section across the front and that's going to give you a big circle or like a donut that's holding onto the inside of the bowl it gives you more contact surface i use a piece of foam to pad the inside of the bowl and again that mark we made at the beginning with the tail stock we're just going to line that up now we're done with this tenon in the shoulder that can be removed i'm not going to mount this again that way so they've done their work this these tendons and shoulders have probably done more work than most the bulls tendons i've turned going back and forth that's the other thing that's fun about this project it's a little bit of a puzzle you have to be thinking about the next step and what you're going to be doing next and i find that actually to be quite fun okay so i'm basically doing push cuts in towards the headstock removing the shoulder and then shaping the side of the foot we don't want to make this foot too small where that might look really elegant and decorative to sit on a table or something that's not going to be functional for what we need this is again this bowl is going to be used and it's going to get handled and we want to make it functional but not delicate and fragile so i'm going to keep this foot relatively large here and i'm just smoothing that transition i'm going to flatten the bottom of the foot and then i'm going to do a push cut in towards the center to make the bottom of the foot concave this is my half inch 55 degree bevel swept back bowl gouge just want to make very light cuts here don't get too aggressive with it and i need to go deep enough that i can take away the little hole that's that tail stocks going to be creating there and while i have it all mounted i'm going to go ahead and sand all that material around the foot okay now i'm using my 3 8 inch spindle detail gouge and i'm going to get in there and make that nub as small as possible and then i'm going to continue that convex or concave rather curve and make that really fluid across the bottom of that foot you can stop here if you're not comfortable and you can sand that nub off but what i'm going to do is i'm going to apply pressure in really hard then i'm going to turn the lathe off and push in and it's going to cut those fibers off and it's going to take that nub right off so we'll have a little sanding on the foot that can be done by hand by holding the sander and holding the bowl but i've also found that if you use the jacob chuck in the lathe itself and turn the lathe into a little mini sander that works great this is a two inch sanding mandrel and basically just work it around there now you're going to want to rotate the bowl so you get a good even sanding and remove that nub evenly so you don't get any divots or deep spots in there okay i'm going to mix a little more of the five-minute epoxy to set that bead inside the lid it just occurred to me that i really don't want to drop any of this on the wood around that hole so i'm going to work really slow it almost looks like i i changed the video and went into slow motion i'm just being very deliberate and making sure not to spill any of this epoxy on the inside of the lid anywhere all right so i'm going to set the bead down in there and it the the hole is a little bigger than the bead which is fine this is going to be pretty interesting i'm getting a little squeezed out here and it actually turned out really good this is a fun little happy accident it created a border around the bead that matches really well plus that epoxy went into the hole for the bead so it's really going to be holding that on there it's not going anywhere all right i'm going to go ahead and sign the bottom of the bowl i like to sign my bowls with a wood burning tool this has a this i'm using a chisel tip to sign with it's not a typical signing or signature tip there there are other pen tips and other nibs you can use that are a little bit easier i just prefer to use the chisel tip because it gives me a nice crisp line and you just take your time and sign the bowl okay so the finish on this i'm using tried and true original which is linseed oil and beeswax now you have to be really careful um beads of courage highly recommend not using any kind of toxic substance for the finish remember some of these kids are very sensitive so we don't want to use any paints or any anything like that which you want to keep really really simple pure finish and that's why i love this tried and true original it's linseed oil and beeswax and that's it there's no chemicals there's nothing else added to this so once this is dried and cured there's nothing there there's no residue of some anything and it's it makes a beautiful finish and on this particular wood this cherry it is it literally makes the surface feel like marble or porcelain i absolutely love using this finish especially with cherry well there it is there's that little knot that kind of surprised me i thought was going to be a problem that actually turned out to be a beautiful accent for this lid it's a happy happy surprise there and the inside of the lid again another happy accident there the hole is a little bigger than it needed to be but it actually worked out and it's it's actually looks really cool with that blue border from the epoxy around the bead and the interior of this bowl is cherry what what can you say about cherry cherry is just gorgeous wood to turn all right guys there you have it this is a green wood twice turned and dried in the middle lidded beads of courage bowl i hope you guys have enjoyed this video and i hope you also realize that essentially what we made are two bowls that just happen to be sized so they fit together it's not super complicated this is very doable and i hope that you have the opportunity to take a look at the description below this video i'm going to have links to the beads of courage program in there you can actually purchase beads and they'll be sent to you so you can put a bead on your bowl like this there are some people that have put them inside the lids like i'm you're seeing here there's other people that have mounted them on the sides of bowls up on the lid or in the outside of the bowl you can put it wherever you want you could actually put it on the foot of the bowl as well but and it doesn't have to be on there but it's kind of a neat touch and it's part of their program so something to consider check out that link in the description also be sure to register with beads of courage as an artist as a woodturner and that way you'll be in their system and they'll be able to direct you where to donate the lidded bowl that you turn for them so this is an incredible opportunity to turn something much bigger than yourself and much bigger than anything else you've probably turned in the past and something that's going to be really important to a child and their family and it's probably going to be passed down for generations and it's definitely going to be a family heirloom so this is a pretty big cool opportunity to not only help somebody but to just feel good and have a great time doing a little bit more complicated turning and just get that added benefit of knowing that you're doing good for somebody so it's really really cool opportunity i hope you guys take advantage of it do me a favor if you plan on making some beads of courage bowls then leave me a comment below and tell me about what you plan now keep in mind this is just one design and one way to make the bowls for beads of courage as well there's other ways to make bowls you could do laminated dried wood or segmented turnings as well so it doesn't have to be exactly like this and there's lots of opportunities you basically just need to make sure that the interior is large enough to meet their requirements to hold the beads and that that's pretty much it so i hope you guys have enjoyed this video and thank you so much for watching do me a huge favor if you're not already subscribing click that subscribe button so you don't miss out on any videos i have coming in the future and i've got some really good ones coming also do me a huge favor and click that like button below the screen when you click the like button for this video and any other video that you watch of mine that you really enjoy it helps youtube understand which videos to promote and it helps out my channel and i greatly appreciate that and i appreciate you for clicking that like button thank you all right guys as i always like to say at the end of my videos until next time happy turning you

Channel: Turn A Wood Bowl

Views: 73,409

Rating: 4.9454703 out of 5

Keywords: Life-Changing Lidded Wood Bowl Turning — Very Special Video, Lidded wood bowl, lidded bowl, beads of courage, woodturning, lidded box tutorial, lidded box woodturning, Kent Weakley, Turn a wood bowl, wood bowl, wood bowl turning, wood turning bowl, bowl turning videos, woodturning videos bowls, kent weakley wood turning, wood bowls on lathe, wood turning, turning projects, wood bowl turning videos, bowl turning techniques, lidded box, epoxy inlay, Fix wood crack, how to

Id: R8ooja7yZzE

Length: 59min 48sec (3588 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 20 2021