Woodturning 101 - Video 8 - Turning a Box

[Music] today we're going to talk about boxes we've got several out here on display you we can look at a few different designs and talk about those some of the techniques that we'll learn will apply to all of these boxes we're going to start with a box today a tower shaped box out of maple and learn how to get a nice fit on the lid this one's quite nice i can feel the air move between it or as i pull the lid on or off i can spin the lid fairly freely but i can also pick the box up by the lid and not have the bottom come off of there this is a little piece of apricot with some chatter work done on the inside or on the top of the box that's done with a chatter tool a little bit more advanced uh on there again a nice fit cylindrical box this is a piece of olive ash or white white ash nice pop fit the base is very similar to the tower box that we're going to do today the lid is a little bit different and has a different shape on the outside again i do have a nice grain match on this piece this piece is a little bit different in the fact that the lid fits inside of the base rather than over the base like the other ones and then the lid is also a top this is clairol walnut and my grandkids love to play with that that box this box is special to me it's done by a friend of mine ray key the last time he was here teaching a class it's a demo piece it's unfinished it's off the tool uh with ray's work and it's a mezzer birch very nice little piece the tools and techniques we'll use today we're going to go back to our spindle tools our spindle roughing gouge our spindle gouges we'll also use our box scraper we're going to learn end grain hollowing cleaning up the insides on the box using a scraper we'll get more in depth to the use of the scrapers today we're going to learn jam checks or continue learning our jam checks we've started some of that one of the things that's very intriguing about a box is a very nice box has a nice fit feels good in the hand there's only a few ways to get there there's about 12 to 15 000 ways to mess it up so one of the most important things that we'll learn today is sequencing if you follow the sequence that we're turning today and doing this today you should come out with a good box if you don't follow the sequencing it's very difficult to get the box right the box we're going to turn today will be out of maple i've got a piece of three by three by five and a half inch block of wood this is nice and dry it's been kiln dried and it is stable you want to get it to your climate now the first thing we're going to do mark out centers here i'm just using my fingers as a scribe and my marker it's a lot easier to find the center of that square than that square so i've shown you three different ways so far to line out centers on a piece one using a centering head one using a ruler and one just using your fingers next i'm going to punch my centers with my spring-loaded center punch or ural whatever you've got i'm going to use my multi-tooth drive center and my cup center and my tail stock so so i've got my rest set at standard tool rest height for my spindle roughing gouge speed turn the piece by hand first start at a minimum starting forward won't cut very good in reverse bring it up i've got a three inch diameter piece if i go back to that formula diameter times the rpm of the lathe should equal between six and nine thousand i've got a maximum rpm on this lathe of about 3000 rpm so i should be able to turn almost up to maximum speed here i'm going to rough out it's about 1900 rpms that feels smooth i've got my feet positioned pretty parallel to the machine itself i've got my tool rest parallel with the lathe bed i confirm that by looking down past the rest at my lathe bed i want to cut a cylinder here my feet are about shoulder width apart my toes are tipped in just a little bit in the direction i want the tool to go handles down in my side anchor bevel cut large diameter to small diameter we're back to spindle work the bowls we were cutting from [Applause] small to large [Music] [Music] as i came back across there i kept my bevel in contact and it removes wood and then i can just start right back in by picking up a little bit more depth still got a little flat spot on there using the back of the tool you can hear that bounce i've still got a little bit of flat and another thing i'm doing here is i'm watching my cut and i'm trying to i want to see if it's cutting clean if this piece of wood is cutting clean this little bit that i've left off or i haven't cut it's hard to start out in the middle of space so i'll come in and pick up the cut from the body of the box and go out into space still got a little flat on there i'm going to bring the rest in i'm looking at the surface here this appears to be cutting clean which is good i don't have to throw a lot of extra tricks in there getting a little lifted fiber on this side so i'm going to mark that with my pencil so that i can reference back to that as i tried to put rather than just the peel cut as i'm removing wood let's try and put a little bit of shear a little bit more sheer to that tool all right let's check and see if that cut ran any better there's my pencil line it is cutting cleaner right there once it gets under the surface so i'm not going to have to put a lot of special tool technique into getting this piece squared up or cut clean that's always good just bring that a little smaller in diameter i'm on that back wing turned upside down look at those shavings coming off those are really nice little curls okay close enough now probably close enough but i'm getting to diameter to get underneath that it'll turn away but i'm going to make sure that it's gone before i continue i just i don't want to end up having that show up in the end piece and then i've got to figure out what to do with it so we'll make sure that that wood is we're cut underneath that surface that color seems to be running a little bit deeper than i expected that oxidized color i just don't want it in my my blank all right that's cut clean now our next step is to take our skew and put a tenon on each end size this for your chalk mine's going to be about two to two and a quarter i want a slight undercut just like we have on all of those so i've got my nice dovetail the undercut that'll hold very well in my chuck last a little bit give that just a flip i want to take a look at my blank is there anything that is pronounced on here that says i need to have one side up versus another side i actually like the way the light hits the grain a little bit better on this piece if this is the top i'm going to put the top into the chuck secure it i'm going to switch to my shorter rest now which you can see will fit back in much better i'm going to kind of lay this out a little bit so that you've got an idea which direction i'm going what i'm doing i'm going to part with a narrow parting tool this section here that's down inch and an eighth inch and a quarter i'm going to have a tenon right there that's about 3 8 of an inch long and then my overall length will be down in here somewhere so i've got the top the part tenon the body and a little bit of wood or a jam chuck now if i'm dealing with a very pretty piece of wood or extremely pretty piece of wood extremely rare exotic i'll jam chuck off of anything that's available i don't have to have a piece of wood out of that box to jam check it and this may not be long enough we'll see when we get there if that's going to work for parting i'm going to stay at that same rough out speed about 1900 2000 rpms i've now got my narrow parting tool here and this has been sharpened across the top and the bottom [Music] come in go about a quarter inch deep and then take up go down the blank about half the width of the tool and go about a quarter inch deeper and then just step that down through i can close one eye and look but down through there and i can see that i'm about a half to five eighths of an inch in diameter once you're more comfortable at the lathe than with the parting tool you can part through all the way through this piece the way i do that is my elbow comes up and rests on top of the headstock my left hand gently supports the piece and then with my right hand i pick up the the part or the cut and drive right to center it will usually just stop spinning in my hand it doesn't want to flip i'll flip and fly all over as long as you part off good and solid and consistent through there if you take your time and let it start flopping around then it'll it'll bounce around a bit and if you don't catch it usually the ground will break its fall since this is one of our first pieces that we're parting off remember also never have your tail stock in position when you're parting things off because when you part that all the way through you've got a little bit of pressure from that tail stock and you compress that wood or press the blank in and you've only got support on one side and that supports coming from your parting tool so that's an instant catch it's going to want to grab that and blankets break bind that up so always move your tail stock out of the way i've got a little back saw doesn't take long at all there's not a lot of wood left in there set that to the side i'm gonna bring my tool rest in set that up i don't need my tail stock for this project and i certainly don't want to poke my elbow into that revolving center i'm going to face this surface off now if you remember on the platter my second cut was a finished surface this is my first finished surface here this will be the inside the the rim on the box when this is done so i want this cut clean make a nice entry come in and cut across there now i'm going to change direction here a little bit i'm going to show you how the scraper works before you have to get down into a hole and use the scraper i'll work on this center bit here well i've stopped this this is cut clean so i'm good on that there for my box when i'm ready to continue on we'll move that rest back a little bit so we'll actually pretend like we're in the bottom of the the box like we will be later on we're going to use our box scraper now this box scraper this is the artisan box scraper it the side is not ground all the way to the edge and that's intentional i don't want this edge cutting and i do want to know where it's in i want to be able to point that so i know where the tip is because my tip is in line with all the blade it once you grind down the center then you lose the reference point for that tip then i've got an angle of 89 degrees or less and then it radiuses back i'm going to have my hand up front on the tool and my elbow over the top of the handle i want my handle higher than the cutting edge when i'm at center so i need to pick my rest up just a little bit more if you've got the handle down low and this tool bites it digs in before it can release and becomes a very violent catch if you're above that 90 degree break then this tool is very unlikely to catch the hardest part to hollow is the dead center because it's not turning but we're going to come in i'll just get a little step step step this is just like i would do if i had if i was down inside the bottom of the box only now i can see that surface once i've got my side cut down and i'm flat or relatively flat on the bottom then i'm going to kick the handle towards center and see where that cuts picking up now more in the center of that blade on that radius and then glide that radius across now scraper works here because it's all end grain it's an even grain surface and you can look at that that is just as clean as can be 600 grit paper would rough that surface up not make it finer so with that let's go ahead and hollow this piece out we're going to do the bulk removal with our 3 8 spindle gouge [Music] if you remember on our egg jam chuck when we hollowed out the grain there i started just behind and below center and then plunge that in and then it was able to come and open up [Music] it's almost self-feeding [Music] now on that last cut i started in and it started to develop a cone okay i did i was not quite on center and so i came back picked up the cut at center before i continued over you don't want to leave a cone in there i can go just a little deeper [Applause] [Music] now i'm going to go back to my scraper i'm going to come in level off that bottom just like we did on the practice session there [Music] now this cut is one of the most important cuts that i'll make on the box as at least just according to getting a good fit i need to have a nice parallel cylinder going up into this box i've left myself a lot of wall thickness here because the the tower shape i'm going to take wood away from the outside on this so i've kept that in mind once as i put my tool up onto the rest i look down past the blade and i'm lining it up with the bed way that's why i cleared the shavings off of the bedway handle elevated so that i don't have a catch come in hold that and then plunge straight back if your wrist is low and you or you don't have clearance ground here in your blade the wood will come in and touch that area and push you to a cone shape or a tapered shape getting tighter at the back one of a box turner's best friends is a brand new unsharpened pencil i can hold that inside the lid of the box at nine o'clock and then look straight down over the top and eyeball that with the bed lathe and that's going to exaggerate any taper that i've got in here to me that looks really good that's a cylindrical box box top i can be a little gap this way a little bit wider at the top than the bottom but i definitely don't want any of this it is well worth taking a few extra minutes and making certain that you've got the right fit on this lid i've got just a little torn grain right in the top of that box i'm going to rub a little scratch free into that [Music] one of the few tools i hone is my scrapers i'm going to use the 180 grit side of my diamond card here and take any existing burr off that i've got and then lightly [Laughter] hone the face of the tool [Music] don't run your thumb over the top of that you'll remove any existing burr that you just put on i'm going to come back in rest seems a little bit high i'm going to put the tip of the tool back into the corner i don't want to go down that side while i know i'm happy there and then just drift that towards center back out i i'm not watching what the tools doing i'm watching the surface that's being left behind so i'm watching over here at the four to five o'clock range one of the problems or the big problem with trying to watch what the tools doing is you stick your head in there that pushes the handle down the tip up into the the blank then the blank grabs the tool picks the tool back up where it should be before it can release that your head and the tool handle are occupying the same bid and the same point in space your head loses that battle so watch the surface over here at the far side rather than what the tip of the tool is doing i'm feeling what the tool is doing and watching what it did all right so i've got the surface cleaned up on that move my tool rest out on the inside of a box when we talk about a finish for the inside of a box one they don't get handled a lot so i don't need a super high durable finish on the inside of a block box so a wax works good i don't want anything that has a heavy petrochemical smell to it if you take the lid off of your finish and it stinks you don't want to take the lid off your box and have it stink if i use lacquers oil varnishes or that on the inside those scents will stay around for a long long time so scratch free is what i'm using has no scent the other option that i would use or consider would be something like a versa wax with a lemon scent something that smells nice and pleasant i do have a little nub right there in the bottom now to get that nub out of there my left hand goes on to the tool rest thumb goes on top of the tool index finger comes up underneath the bottom of the tool handle kicks over so that only the center of the blade comes underneath that nub and i'm above the nub is above the tool i come in touch the wood pinch my thumb and my index finger together with the blade in there and drop the handle and that takes the nub out of there if i come in and sweep sideways i'll put a new nub in there and you just you can sit and trace that all day or you can sit and chase that all day long i'm now done with the lid of the box on the inside so it's ready to take out of the chuck and get replaced with the body of the the box make certain that you're secure in your chuck my next step is to size to my rough fit on my tenon [Music] and so to do that bring my blank up to speed 2000 rpms or so i'm not pushing the rpms i'm going to my straight across sku this one happens to be in a square section i like it a lot for cutting in my box tenons because it is very stable now cut down a ways and then cut a taper check to see if that fits i'm nowhere near fitting on that taper i'm going to remove the taper cut a new taper that almost that's very close i'm going to remove most of the taper and a very then put a very shallow taper in this time i've got a little burnish line right there that's where the fit of this piece is right now that's where if i cut that to a cylinder these two parts would match and fit i now know how far i can hollow out to i'm going to square that up again and then put a shallow taper bring the lid up don't hold that too long i don't want to burn this burner ring here but i want a burnish mark on the wood and i can see that burnish mark in there that tells me where this lid is going to fit onto this box if i was to cut that tenon out right now before i cut the tenon and i fit the lid to the box i'm going to come back and hollow this out a lot of turners will fit the lid turn the outside and then hollow the box and as soon as you do that you change the fit of the lid and most often they go very loose more so than they go tight and they almost never hold where you want them to be we're going to keep that control on adjusting the fit all the way through this piece so we'll set this to the side set our tool to the side i'm going to go back to my 3 8 spindle gouge i'm going to bring my rest around to the face i want to be just slightly below standard tool rest height speed i'm going to keep riding that 2000 rpm range it's working good for us i'm not getting any vibration first thing i want to do is remove that torn grain from the parting tool that is a finished surface [Music] found my anchor bevel picked up my cut once i had a place for my bevel the handle dropped and the cut arc towards center as i got closer to the center the handle comes up it's a good idea to stop and verify that that surface right there is cut clean there's my center there's where i want my tip to enter between at about 4 30. just behind and below push it to center now find the center and i come up off the rest getting a little bounce i'm not quite perfect on that open it up get rid of the bounce my handle running right down the center axis of the lathe this is a bit harder wood than the aspen i'm going to put my thumb on my blade as a depth gauge and i've just eyeballed where i want to be for overall depth based off my ref my rough line and i've drilled that deep in there now since this is a harder wood this tool might be very hot be careful don't grab hold of it and start hollowing and burn yourself [Applause] then from working from the center out that annoying sound is the tool letting me know it's being abused so it's time to switch over and go over to the scraper this is where the practice that we did on the lid by being way over the tool rest comes into play i'm going to keep my rest up closer now one of the things i need to watch for here is that i don't push this into a tight hole and it starts to lift on the back side when that happens it flips your tool around and that's where these old divots get picked up in the in the side of your tool is it's spinning it's a nice spectacular catch so if i feel that starting to lift i'll back out and open up that path make it a little wider [Music] didn't want to drip that sideways i'm trying to go straight back on there and still feel i've got drilled hole at the bottom once i hit the end of that drilled hole my scraper won't want to go forward any further [Music] [Music] [Music] still can see there's a hole in the bottom of this and i've got some shavings i want to get out of there so i've got a poor man's compressor if you use a straight straw it kind of gets back in your eyes or if you don't use a straw so i need a little bit more depth back to center so [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Music] okay just about all the way through the center i've got just a pinpoint of the from where the tip of the gouge drilled i can see phil just i see just that little dot in there and i can feel that it's got just a little crown to it i'm going to come in find the side of this and i'm going to go in about an inch or so going straight down and then i'm going to kick the handle over and i'm going to aim for this depth but inside of that wall about a quarter of an inch and so my hole is getting bigger as it gets deeper [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so that's one reason why i don't grind the side of that this tool i want to be able to see and envision where that tip is don't put your fingers into a running piece and for that matter don't put anything into a running piece that you want to hold on to it's not good practice and when you get deep in a box like this and you stick it stick your fingers in there and it's running it kind of cauterizes the skin and the web of your fingers and doesn't feel real good so i've been told gently clean the bottom up on that i don't not real happy with what i did where that tool went sideways on me a little bit i'm going to bring that back i want to get that thickness back on there by going straight that first inch and a quarter or so i've left myself an escape route so that i can shorten that tenon up if i'd missed the fit and that was a little bit of a miss what i've got going on here is i'm trying to equal this wall thickness here so i'm following the outside shape on the on that so i've got a lot of sweep on the outside i will have a lot of sweep on the outside of this box but i've got a lot of curve on the inside i've got the straight wall to start with that'll give me something that if i need to jam fit it to adjust the chuck i can or if i missed the fit i could come down a little bit further and still continue on and get a good fit if i started this taper all the way up here you imagine that line coming through there i've thinned that tenon out if i need to slide down the wall to make the fit i won't have that if i leave this with the cylinder on the inside or just a cup in the bottom of it it leaves a very heavy box and people are more pleasantly surprised when it weighs less than they think it should rather than when it's heavier than it should at this point i'm going to sand and finish the inside i want to do it exactly like i did the the lid so they look the same on the lid i cut clean and didn't need to sand i've got one little groove down in the bottom we'll deal with it late well we won't deal with it later we'll call it good for today on there nothing's more boring than watching somebody bore on the inside of a piece you can't see what's going on in there so again a little scratch free you gotta stick my finger down in there so i've turned the speed down just so i don't burn my finger you could use a set of sanding clamps to get down in these deeper boxes like this okay we're back out to the outside i'm gonna set my tool rest up standard tool rest height and i'm going back to my straight edge skew my lid doesn't quite fit anymore one i took a little bit of material back on there but also this piece has had a few minutes to relax once you get that hollowed out it's a good idea to give it just a few minutes rest at least a few minutes or less too overnight to let this wood relax and if you've sanded heavy in there you've generated quite a bit of heat you want to wait until it gets back to room temperature and that's all cooled back up to speed 2000 rpm take a few peeling cuts for that tendon i'm working on the last 16 of an inch or so of wood and check that fit and this time i'm brushing my dust off of my tool after each cut i want to be able to see how much wood i'm removing so i've cut a little taper i'm fitting over that taper there dust comes off crunch fit it's a little tight but it tells me where i want to i can start working too i'm going to lengthen that out okay that cut came down to where i want the thickness of the outside to be so i i projected that line down there and then i'm going to continue to refine the fit here now i'm work trying to get a cylinder so i've got a good cylinder on the lid get a cylinder here that ought to fit together quite nice before i fit that get out my depth gauge my overall depth ended up just past that line there i want about 3 8 of an inch there's about where i'm going to part there's my depth there so i'll take this tenon off of that that'll work out good i like to line my grain up here i don't know that it matters a bit crunchy i can see a little burnish line down there about halfway if i use sandpaper here i wouldn't have any control i wouldn't know how much material i've removed so i never use sandpaper there it's always off the tool so my inside of my box is right there to give you an idea to right there i'm going to come in first thing with my narrow parting tool part in about a quarter inch i now know where the bottom of my box is going to be now this is a tower shaped box so the top of the box is a smaller diameter than the bottom of the box so that's the first cut i'm going to make on the outside spindle roughing gouge anchor bevel cut using the wing or the nose of the tool and i'm cutting the cove i don't cut up hill so i need to come back the other direction now i know how deep i can go because i cut that groove as my depth gauge so [Music] mmm take a little bit of extra time get your shape right [Music] i'm looking for nice asymmetrical cold i've now got down to my thickness bring my rest around go to my 3 8 3 8 spindle gouge so put a little og on top get my tool started cold cove tall bead one more time and that cove is not dishing in it's coming straight and cutting cove out that way get my tool started cold cold tall bead slow down at the end cut all the way to the center this corner is very sharp those fibers are really short on that edge so i'm going to just put a little chamfer here i want to have some kind of separation between the top and the bottom so i'll slide my lid off just a little bit now that can be as simple as the groove that we had in there for getting down to the depth i could do something the one that i had in there was pretty wide i could do just a small sixteenth of an inch groove and what i'm looking for is something that when the fingers fill it and they send the signal to the brain said hey there's something going on there it doesn't match the finger the eyes look down say yep fingers you're right there's a groove there or there's a bead there but there is something that separates that now i don't care where you live your wood's going to have some movement with the seasons and so while this may have fit perfectly smooth just a minute ago while i had that lid on there and possibly even if i turned the grain around because it's alternative as a cylinder today but that lid is going to move slightly different than that body and so i always want some kind of separation between the two so like i say it could be as simple as a little groove with your parting tool or your skew on the side let's roll a bead anchor my wrist is in anchor to the rest my wrist is in an uncomfortable position and i'm going to roll from my left to my right find my bevel and roll that out switch my wrist position anchor bevel bring that around now the reason i've got the lid slid slide slid off just a little bit is there's no way i'll get that match on that groove if i've got the lid tight i'll always hit be off a little bit now i can tighten the lid on to the piece come in half a bead and a half a bead and dress that up quite well nicely on there reduce my speed half or a little bit more and i'm ready to start sanding sheet paper fold it in thirds just like we did before in fact this is the same bit of abrasives starting with 120 grit you can see it doesn't take long with 120 grit to level that surface up 180 so look everything over we're ready to apply a finish on this uh we'll go it's a little scratch free first just to polish it out so so that pops that grain out quite nice now i've buffed out that scratch free let's put a friction polish on this i'm going to use a shellac based product this is a waxed shellac the wax gives you lubricant there's a lot of friction polishes on the market i like to have the ones with the least amount of wax rather than a lot of wax some of them are almost all wax wax goes on easy it also comes off easy i want enough wax to act as a lubricant while this is turning but i don't want so much wax that it builds i'm working a small area at a time and then i'm going to use friction from speed and a little pressure in order to cure and dry out the solvent which is alcohol as i dry off the first coat which is rubbed in by hand always then i'm applying a drop or two to the towel at a time keep your hand moving side to side very quick or you'll get streaks build up in this type of a finish build as many coats as you'd like until you're happy with the finish the reason you rub the first coat in is so that it penetrates into the cells of the wood a little bit and if you've got dust in an open drain wood and you put the apply a friction polish onto an open grain wood while it's turning you might have see the dust particles left in the pores of the wood friction polishes can be very durable if you've applied them properly most people don't apply them properly they either flood too much on leave a soft spot a soft coat underneath a hardened coat then they sponge they lose their gloss and their sheen to them and just like any other finish they can be taken care of or they need to be taken care of you can restore a shellac fairly easy our next step is going to going to be remove the lid and adjust the fit on the the lid to where it is where i like it that's a tight fit it's a two-handed fit that's my work fit i needed it or wanted it that tight so that i could do all this work out here on the the lid and shape it now that i've got all my work done now i'll adjust this for the final fit for the end user so i'm going to adjust the fit bring my speed back up 1900 2000 rpm i'm going to my straight across skew that's in a square section tool this was originally purchased as a beading and parting tool which is ground square across and i've just put a skew angle on it that makes it a lot easier to work here because the handle is off to the side and that gets my eye in a line a little bit better with what i'm trying to i've accomplish my tool rest slightly so that i can get my finger wrapped up underneath there and get a good hold here now i'm going to cut a barrel shape tenon so i taper that slightly on the front brush the dust off taper back to the center [Music] slightly and i've got one shiny bit there and i'm just going to kiss that and then check the fit that's still tight you might be able to see where that's a little shiny right there at that high point brush the dust off my tool just skim this i'd rather check it 10 times and get to the right fit then go too much and not have checked it give that a little twist i can see the burnish now not everybody wants a pop fit like that it's really nice if you want to take that to the club meeting and show off everybody that you got a pop fit but that's still just a little tight that's going to take two hands to pull that apart you don't always want that in a box sometimes you want to have a box that just the lid comes off with one hand especially if you've got a little jewelry box that's by the sink for rings or something like that that's not a two-handed box or if you're giving it to your aunt your grandmother's got arthritis in her hand so bad she can't pull that lid off they're not going to be happy with a really tight fit on that box lid i like to feel air movement on mine but i don't want them to where i've got to pry them apart they're difficult to pry apart again sand paper i'd have no idea what i'm doing shape wise or how much material i'm removing so i'd lose a lot of control by using sandpaper and so i wouldn't allow that that's a much nicer fit doesn't have that loud pop on it but it turns and it's fine now this may and most likely will change a little bit as it rests overnight it might be a little bit tighter tomorrow in which case i might have to come back through and retouch that um tenon a little bit for now i'm going to put a little scratch free on there on that tenon just so that it looks the same as everything else has a finish on it and i'm ready to part this off one quick check from the depth of my hole i've got plenty of wood on the bottom you're never happy when you get this far go to part this off and it comes off all of a sudden you've got a big hole in the bottom of your box speed 1900 just stepping one side then the other quarter inch deep at a time down to about an inch in diameter half inch in diameter stop and take the side of that if you would like i'm going to reach over the top my arm's supported by the headstock i'm supporting the box with my and i've got one finger inside and i just aim for center and part that off i've got a choice now do i turn this down for a jam chuck to fit inside of the box and hold it which would be what i would do if i needed to adjust the fit on this tenon or well or do i go ahead and cut a relief in size to that and jam the box into the jam block that i've got here one i've never seen any seen a box split from jamming it into a compression chuck like that i have seen many boxes split by jamming the jam chuck into the box that's thin material now you've got to be careful so let's take the safe bet to hollow this out and open it up it's a little bit more difficult but it's a great skill builder my rpms stay the same 2000 rpms nineteen hundred two thousand rpms i'm going to bring my tool rest in front standard tool rest height for my 3 8 spindle gouge just like we did earlier i'm going to face this surface off mark center and i've marked where my tool is going to enter so you can see that [Music] so open it up a little bit check your fit i'm not there yet so i can square this up [Music] there's the other side of our blank cut a new taper [Applause] that's close i'm going to square this up [Music] [Applause] cut a shallow taper you can see with the pencil on there the taper that i've got i've got a pretty good taper on there and i'm just barely catching the inside of that just like we did on our jam chuck for our bowl i'm going to bring this skew in from the side get a little bit more taper on that i've opened it up to where i'm hoping that my tenon fits in just a little bit and i can get a burnish on there for the fit i've got a rather long bevel so i'm sliding that back and i've picked it up above center so that i'm clear of the wood coming around okay that's close and i'm not deep enough the reason i'm not just using my box scraper scraper and going straight back through is just like on the bowl jam chuck for every sixteenth of an inch i take off of here i take a sixteenth inch off of there and i just don't have that kind of control that i that i do when i come in and sneak up on it like this so i'm coming in very careful i do have a barrel shape tenon here and so i'm fitting at different points but i want to fit at the widest point i'm sneaking up on this and if you don't have enough wood left in the bottom of your blank don't worry about that that cut a a jam chuck you need a little bit more angle on the skew if you don't have enough wood to cut your jam chuck just get a scrap piece [Music] my tool rest back in front standard tool rest height 3 8 spindle gouge should be running true if not you're not shouldered up here you're not fit in that jam chuck right face this surface off here watch that entry cut so you don't have a skid i'm coming in about a quarter of an inch and stopping i had about 3 8 of an inch to work with so i'm not worried about going through the bottom on this one famous last words now as i come up to the wall on this cut i just kind of roll the tip over and smooth that up i've created a little half bead on this on the bottom of this box that'll lift it up off the table and make it look better now if i want a whole bead i'm going to pick up my bevel angle in towards the center again wait until that cuts that knob off of there don't try and push and break it off that's all right if i wanted the half bead for the full bead i'm now going to come back from the center out to the other side of the bead cutting straight across as i get to the end of that where i want my bead and the thickness that i want it lift the handle close the flute scrape on the bottom wing and don't drag the tip in like i just did you can scrape back the other way if you want i'm gonna clean that up just a little bit give it a little bit more definition this area here if you're not real happy with the smoothness on it come in with your skew laid down flat sharp edge it's a negative rake scraper that'll also clean up the corners on that bead quite nicely here on the corner of this i've got fibers coming this way and ending and i've got really short fibers i've got a chamfer on the lid so a chamfer on the base would look like it belongs there move my banjo out of the way reduce my speed find my abrasives 120 just like power sanding i'm going to start with a coarser grit than i think i need move through the grits very quick a lot quicker than if i just started at 220. 180 240. 320. scratch free to polish if you look you can see where this has started to settle always shake up your friction polishes before you use them if you wanted to put lines back there to sign your name you can do that before you put a finish or afterwards and then just finish up the grooves speeds 1100 as i bumped it up to get a little bit more heat going on on the finish a little friction so i'll kind of blend the two surfaces together be careful with any rag that has a finish on it if you put them all in a pile they can spontaneously combust i like to unfold my finish rags hang them over the side of my waste bin so that they dry like that rather than bound up bundled up in a ball of uh towels that can spontaneously combust hold on to the two sides of your box and then with with one hand give that box just a little pop with the other put the lid on there check for the grain line up i've got a nice little grain match all the way around that bead helps hide the fact that there's it's not perfect but it's not going to be perfect because i've got the tenon in there so unless your grain is perfectly straight it won't be dead perfect and then when that sits on a table top with that bead on it and that chamfer underneath it that lifts it up above the tabletop and it almost appears that it's hovering on there rather than sitting on the table [Music] you

Channel: Craft Supplies USA

Views: 54,716

Keywords: craft supplies usa, woodturners catalog, woodturning

Id: dQ02HcTHDEY

Length: 94min 35sec (5675 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 17 2021