Woodturning 101 - Video 9 - Turning a Goblet

[Music] if you've been following along with our woodturning 101 project videos up till now we've done all of the standard projects that we do in a five-day woodturning 101 course some classes have a little bit of time at the end and we throw in a bonus project our bonus project is our thin stem goblet with this project we'll do we'll rough this out with the spindle roughing gouge will hollow end grain away from the chuck talk about scraping the inside of the the goblet we'll talk about proper scraping techniques on the inside of the goblet and then of course turning the thin stem we'll also talk about proper grain orientation and wood selection for this project so with that let's get started on this project we can do this out of many different woods but one of the things i like to do is look at the grain and i want a nice straight grain piece like i've got on this piece of walnut here unlike this curly piece of maple where i've got the curl on the maple the nice fiddleback that can be problematic as i get into my stem and i get small in diameter because those grains are literally zigzagging through the blank and i get very thin on that that can shear off where the grain is running biased to the axis of the lathe so we're going to go with this walnut blank i've got a two and a half by two and a half by seven inch piece of wood here i'm also looking at my end grain and i've got some nice straight growth rings going through here i've got some lighter colored wood on the outside of this this was sapwood here this was out of a very large walnut tree and it's the outside cut so those growth rings are going as straight as possible as they can through this blank the only thing that would be better is would be if this blank had been quarter sawn but let's go ahead and lay this out so we'll mark our take our center finder and mark our centers i can now set up my lathe to mount this blank between centers i've got my centers that i've selected here i've got a steb center or a multi-tooth cut center that'll go into my drive in and then i've got my cup center with a revolving with bearings in it on my revolving center bring my banjo over now we talked about this earlier my cup centers or my multi-two centers have got their spring-loaded so i can place that center point into onto that point then bring my tail stock up and that will spin freely until i am ready to tighten that up i'm going to grab my tool rest [Music] start setting up my banjo standard tool rest height which again my tool held level on the rest the cutting edge is at standard error as it is at center and we're starting with my spindle roughing gouge now that we've got our tool rest height set let's look at setting our tool rest to make sure it's parallel to the work so i can look straight down on my piece and set the gap here so that i'm parallel and now i can secure and lock my banjo and my tool rest in place my piece still spins freely and i've got about 3 8 of an inch gap between my rest and my piece i'm not tight yet on my tail stock so i'll go ahead and bring that tension up and take the vibration out of the quill so as we do the math on this two and a half inches in diameter times the speed of the lathe my max speed of the lathe is 3200 rpm so if i take and i times 2.5 times 3200 i'm getting around to eight thousand that puts me in a good place safety wise that i want to be with that formula being the diameter times the rpm should equal between six and nine thousand so i'm below the maximum rpm that this piece should be able to turn safely yet i'm above the minimum rpm for cutting efficiently so at max rpm i'll hear the motor revving a little bit on this but it's still safe now that i've got my machine set up and before i start it i want to put on my safety equipment for the purposes of the video i'm not wearing my normal face shield i normally wear a powered respirator and facial combination and that protects both my face and my lungs even though this face doesn't need a lot of protection my eyes do you're only given one pair i'm going to wear my safety glasses however i am very secure between centers here this is one of the safest ways to hold the work and i want to make sure that i'm in good and safe as far as the dust goes we do have a dust collector running in the room to try and draw dust away from me so i'm not having to deal with all of the dust from a piece i will have some that will have to deal with that where i don't have my powered respirator on now a couple of notes as i bring this up to speed i'm going to start at zero i have an electronic variable speed so i can start at zero on this machine and then slowly bring it up to speed while i do that i'm going to stand a little bit to the side that way i'm out of the line of fire if this piece has a hidden crack in it that i was unable to see as i've worked and laid out my centers and processed the blank this far or something that it happens to blow apart i'm not in the line of fire i'm very secure between centers here as i bring my speed up i start my my lathe it's at zero i'm going to slowly bring my speed up and i'm going to keep my other hand on the tail stock of the machine filling for vibration a piece this size i shouldn't have a lot of vibration with a machine this large and heavy this should be quite secure there's about 2500 rpm i can feel some air movement from the square corners on here this is a good place i feel comfortable in starting i'm not oversped by any means but i'm turning fast enough to cut efficient as i start to cut this and set up my cut my feet are about shoulder width apart parallel to the axis of the leg my right foot may maybe slightly back just a little bit and that lets me twist my body i've got my left hand on the rest sliding back and forth across i've got the tool on top of the rest try to avoid putting your finger between the tool and the tool rest that's not a good thing if you do that you'll figure out why i recommended that you don't very soon hand underneath the tool handle down my handle is clear down in my side here and i've got the tool pointed in the direction i want to cut again we're cutting spindle work my grain is running parallel to the axis of the lathe so i'm going to cut large diameter to small diameter here anchor to the rest find the bevel by picking up the handle and then [Music] cut as that's my basic abcs if you want to add d direction or design [Music] and i'm just going to come in and take steps out of this blank first i'm not going to push these all the way to the end there's no need for that right now i'm taking steps out of it as i get down towards the end here i need to have some place to start my cut so i turn the tool over slightly shift my weight my feet didn't move and then i can just come in and cut the other direction always large diameter to small you can still hear a flat spot in the blank i'm now getting a pretty good gap between my tool rest and my blank so i've shut the lathe off and i'm going to bring that tool rest in i'm back to that quarter to 3 8 of an inch gap on there i've still got a little flat spot on the blank on two sides come in and make a slow down my cut by slow down my cut it's the speed i'm traveling sideways and that'll give me a better finish a nice bevel riding cut the tip is about a 45 degree angle from the cutting circle and that gives me a nice shear on the tool and i'm getting a nice shaving off of the tool still got to cut a little flat in there i'm going to leave that for now and as i turn it around and go to true the piece up then i'll get underneath that flat area i'm going to cut my tenon in now the first tool to come to hand is my skew i'm going to lay it flat on the rest start with the handle up level get under that first little layer and then drop the handle and arc the cut in i want about a two to two and an eighth inch diameter tenon for the chuck jaws that i'm using i want to make certain that i don't have any debris or rough edges down in here i've got a good dovetail of about seven degrees and then i've got as i put my straight edge on the piece i've got a slight gap in the center of the rule between the rule and the wood right there and it the ruler doesn't rock it registers on there if you've got a crown on that tenon re-cut it and make sure that you've got that flat so those the shoulders of that chuck jaw rest on this piece if you have serrated jaws on your chuck you cut a square shoulder rather than a dovetail tenon for that if you've got a question on what kind of tenon you you should be cutting go back and look at your owner's manual they all explain what kind of tenon those jaws should have some manufacturers are quite specific on how their tenons should be shaped if you've got a question beyond that can't find your owner's manual online or in your print version of it give our technicians a call at our 800 number our next step is going to be place this piece in the chuck so i slide my tail stock out of the way bring my banjo back grab my knockout bar place your hands to the side of the your center not over the top give that a little tap you do want to catch those drive centers rather than throw them on the floor and bang the tips as i put my chuck on i always brush the shoulder here and i make sure that the shoulder here doesn't have a bunch of crud build up on it i hold the chuck and then turn the hand wheel the last little bit eighth of a turn or so i give that a little flick just to lock that in secure again make certain that i don't have any debris that's got into this tenon and my chuck jaws are free of debris and i'm going to hold the piece in against the shoulders and tighten this up i tend to do it three times with the same tension even though each of the chuck keys or scroll gears are self-centering and all four jaws move at one time i put the same amount of tension on each chuck key as i go around and i pick up a little bit of mechanical slack each time i tighten that and i just find a point to where i'm no longer picking up the mechanical slack for me that's about three times or one and a half turns of the the chuck and bring my tail stock back up in my center should line up with the existing center mark and then i can bring my banjo in one consideration i need to take into account here is this is a 14 inch rest the standard powermatic rest this rest is not going to allow me to come in and get a small gap and be parallel to the work because i'm hitting my chuck here i'm not a big fan of having that rest in a position like this if i don't need it especially on spindle work here so i'll be changing my tool rest over and i'll go to a shorter rest so i've got an eight inch rest here and i'm going to set it up standard tool rest height and parallel and with this shorter rest i can come in parallel rather than being askew as i was with the longer rest now right there you may have seen me just move the chuck just a little bit with my hand what i did was i lined up my chuck jaws to where the gap is vertical that gives me the center height here to glance against as i'm setting or to glance over to as i'm setting up my standard tool rest height and so it gives me a nice little visual indicator as to where that is helpful little tip that i found along the way turn your piece by hand i've got a little bit of a flat in one spot everything's running clear because i've remounted the piece i'm going to turn my speed down to zero and i'll bring it back up i don't take for granted that because i've turned this piece around it's going to run at the same rpm that it ran beforehand things may have moved and weight differences so i always go back to a zero point and then bring my speed up standing again to the side out of the line of fire and one hand on the machine filling for vibration and the other one bringing the speed up anchor bevel and i can hear just a little bounce and then bring my cut across i just touched the jaws with the back of my gouge no harm that just lets me get as much of this surface cut nice and evenly as possible i'm just gonna come back and lightly bump the back of my tool against my chuck jaws to get as tight as i can take a nice skimming cut and then look at this surface and make sure that i don't have any flats left on it any torn grain everything's cut clean that looks nice my next step is going to be to come in and face this surface off here so i'm going to move my tool rest and i will tuck it in a little bit and i'm going to pick up my 3 8 spindle gouge set my tool rest for standard tool rest height and i've tucked that in like i mentioned that's going to get me a little closer as i come across if i lift it parallel to the axis i'd be hanging out with quite a bit more still over the tool rest than i am going to be here i'm going to start with my handle up my flute closed my bevel pointed in the direction i want to cut once i get a place for my shoulder to ride i'm going to drop the handle and the tool tip of the tool arcs towards center i'm going to stop look at that surface make sure it's cut nice and clean so i'm cut clean there i'm cut clean here i can start to shape the bowl on this goblet i'm going to come down i'm just putting a random mark in here just as a guideline to where i'm going to start the shape i wouldn't come in with a parting tool at this point and neck this down because i want to leave the strength up here for hollowing this but i'm going to start by shaping rough shaping i'm going to start by rough shaping the bowl here and the simplest shape is going to be just a simple open bowl shape a nice little curve coming in here i'm only going down to about one and three quarters to two inches in diameter here i'm leaving a lot of mass in this piece still i've got to come back in and hollow this out and i don't want to get thin back here so leave a lot of mass in here you notice how that length line keeps sliding up from where i originally drew that pencil line i keep sliding up as that curve comes in just a simple shape on this goblet and now we'll move our tail stock out of the way i don't need to bump into that revolving center and put the mark of a wood turner in my elbow so i'll take it out i want to set my tool rest at standard tool rest height or just about a sixteenth of an inch below right now first thing i'm going to do is continue to face off this blank anchor bevel cut without the tail stock you can immediately start to hear some vibration here now as i come around and i go to start hollowing this i want to get as much room as i possibly can so i'm going to slide that banjo tail stock all the way out flute closed over to about 10 10 30. again we're hollowing in grain so i'm going to start just behind center and below it at the five o'clock position with my flute pointed at about the 10 30 position as i advance the tip forward the bevel pushes at the center if i've got my rest a bit high i'm going to get too much vibration on here and since i'm just a touch low i need to lift the tool up just off the rest and i can plunge straight back in i was getting just a little bit of burn on this tool so i'm going to slow down my rpm use my thumb as a depth gauge and eyeball that flute or the tip of the tool and i've hauled that out double check that now the tip of this tool is very hot the best way to test this is not with your finger but with your tongue your tongue heals quicker than your finger both of them will still burn don't get me wrong there it'll still burn you now one thing that i'm noticing right now is that my gut is hitting into my handle on my banjo so i'm just going to rotate that over get it out of my way and then i'm going to reach over bring my speed up from that thousand to 1500 rpm that i drilled at back up to about my 2500 rpm turning speed again with the flute pointed at the 10 30 between say 9 o'clock and 10 30 position i can then come in take small bites and pull towards the outside i'm taking about a quarter inch cut right there i'm going to leave a quarter inch wall right now for this come in take a second cut i'm either squeezing with my fingers and pulling the tool towards the outside or i'm pushing a little bit with my right hand and pushing the handle away both cuts will yield the same results starting to get a nice little squeal off the tool and that's the tool flexing from the reach on that rest i'm going to come in i tried dampening that with my fingers first still getting it i'm going to take smaller bites the wider you go the more squeal you're going to get now you turn the tool over so it's a little less aggressive that quiets it up [Music] the bottom line is that noise is the tool letting you know you're abusing it and it's about time to switch over to another tool now down to my depth of my original drill hole or very close to the depth on my original drill hole and i'm going to come back in and clean and refine this curve up with my scraper the scraper i'm going to use here is a french curved scraper with a negative rake ground into it tool rest height standard will work good slightly higher is a little bit better and that way i can still have a trailing action to my tool just like i would with a traditional or a positive rake scraper and that way i'm still working with the same techniques and i'm much less likely to have any kind of a catch however a negative rake is much less likely to have a catch than a positive rake scraper as i look at this piece and i'm set up here one thing that bothers me that i don't like is i don't like the fact that i've got a flat rim so the first thing i'm going to do is i bring this up to speed is i'm just going to come in and slope the rim in just a little bit and you can also see out here how your tools working on this surface now i've got my my hand is over the the well or the bulge in the handle up by the ferrule and then the handle is tucked under my forearm here to me that's a big safety issue because if i should happen to have a catch here in order for the tool to come out of my hand and hit me in the head it has to take my arm off and go through my arm so i would much rather have good secure hold on it here then be out here right there if it grabbed and popped then it's got nothing between it and my head other than some air so i'm going to tuck that underneath there and there's two things i learned in little league and that number one was choke up on the bat so i've got a lot more control on the tool when i'm choked up here than i do here so if i want a nice smooth curve i'm going to choke up on the tool the second thing i learned was there's ice cream at the end of the game and i can work back and forth with this negative rake and thin this out to whatever thickness i want i'm going to go with about a quarter inch goblet this doesn't need to be super thin and then come and blend this curve and the bottom out nicely okay so you notice i've got my left hand anchored to the rest here and my thumb is anchoring the tool and i'm pivoting off of my thumb and my index finger on my left hand is actually riding on the outside of the bowl to stabilize the bowl now luckily we're designed with a built-in thermostat on if we're pushing too hard if that's generating heat you'll get or friction you'll get heat and it'll let you know that you shouldn't be pushing that hard that's just barely gliding my fingers just barely gliding on that surface if by chance your thermostat's not working too good and you start to smell bacon cooking you better be in the kitchen or you're pushing way too hard on that finger now you want to be careful as you come into the center right there i bump just a little bit past center and you heard it give me just a little rattle as it wants to pick up and come across and set me back down so you want to be careful as you come into that center that you're aware of where the tip is i've still got quite a bit of wood to get out of the center there and look down in i can still see some of my hole from my original hole and these negative rakes lose their edge fairly quickly so i've grabbed a diamond card i'm going to hone the top surface first and then hone the bottom surface that'll put any burr up on the top side or go back to your grinder and this tool is ground 35 degrees on both sides top and bottom kind of adjusting my fill with my left hand here see which side which surface i want which is going to feel most comfortable as i come right into that center you hear it kind of want to skip it's trying to pick the tool up if i was putting any pressure in on that at all and forcing that tool it'd grab that and want to flip it over and spin it also be mindful that you don't want to build a cone up in the dead center because it'll also give you the same effect as wanting to grab that tool and pick it up just a puff of smoke there as i pushed in there's not a lot of speed in that center on there and so as i push against that i'm taking a rather blunt instrument into that and friction burning it i'm going to move my left hand grip over the top just to give me a little bit more secure hold as i get right in on the center um touch that edge one more time you only have seconds of life here on a scraper it's not minutes of life it's seconds now i'm trying to avoid dropping my head and looking inside because as soon as i drop my head and look inside the handle goes down the tip goes up and then it's going to embed into the wood once it gets into the wood the motion of the lathe and the wood we're going to want to pick that tip back up to where put that tip back where it should be and the handle comes up and then the handle and your head are occupying the same point in space and that's never good as i come in on the bottom i can fill that little nub and i just come in and just drop the handle a little bit and arc up i start just below the nub come in find the back of the the bowl and then just arc up and as soon as i pull sideways i'm going to put a new uh divot in and so i want to watch pulling sideways because i don't want to put a another little nub down in the bottom now as i reach in here taking my potter's hands the best set of calipers i own or the one i rely on the most i've got some extra thickness right here so i'm going to bring come in and hollow a little bit more in this side you hear as i started that cut as i get up on that wall it's a little tinny in the sound and that is vibration and a little bit less support so it took some meat out of there still got more to go there's the center bump just past center got a little chatter okay not bad i do have a little nub down in the bottom still working a little bit of meat out of the side of this come in and fill for that center you hear that rim getting very tinny i'm seeing a little bit of torn grain in there so i'm going to go back to my grinder sharpen this up one more time get my best burr possible and then come back and try and skim that surface and get rid of any torn grain before i go to the grinder i'm going to put a little bit of lubricant in there whatever paste wax you happen to have handy or if you're putting water-based finish on use whatever finish whatever is make sure whatever you put in here is compatible with your finish this will be compatible with what i'm going to put onto this piece and so i'm going to rub in a little bit of paste wax i'm going to give that a few minutes to set while i sharpen this tool that'll swell the fibers up a little bit and help me cut through them much cleaner i've been to the grinder and you should be able to see the burr on this tool now i've used a 35 degree bevel angle on both top and the bottom i sharpen my top first and then my bottom which puts the bur on the top of the tool and should give me my best chance at cutting now i used my very i used my coarse grit wheel i used my 80 grit cbn to raise as large a bur as possible i need to get into this and get a good bite hold of it to get underneath that torn grain if i just needed to skim i may go to one of my finer grit cbn wheels so let's get our tool rest set up i didn't change my height we're still at standard tool rest height i'm going to bring my lathe up to speed i haven't changed speed just sharpen the tool and we put that wax in there to support that help support that fiber come in at center and pull back now with that wax on there i'm seeing a different shaving it's definitely got some body in there a lot less dust okay that cut clean i've got a curve that i like and let's sand the inside of this goblet i take my sheets i cut them into 1 6 sheets and then i fold them in thirds again i'm going to reduce my speed from the 2500 rpm down to about half to a third of that so somewhere in the thousand rpm range for sanding i never sand at my cutting speed i sand at half to a third of my cutting speed your number one enemy when you're sanding is heat and that breaks down the glues that hold on to the abrasive your abrasive is your number two enemy it comes around and knocks the next bit of abrasive off i'm taking a 50 jump in abrasives so i started with 120 i went to 180 i'm going to 240. now the advantage of folding that into thirds is it doesn't slip on itself so as i come into hollow on the inside of that bowl that paper doesn't slip i'm going to take a little bit more of a jump now i'm going to a 400 grit paper and i tend to would prefer to have my jump at 400 right now than sharpen or sand to 320 and then jump to a 600. so at 400 i should be able to stop and not see any scratches but 600 gives me just a little bit of assurance that i'm not going to see any scratching you notice how i don't roll that edge around i come out and then sand that edge separate i want to keep that nice and crisp i'm going to set my papers to the side i'm going to add a little scratch free which is my last step in my sanding and my first step in my finishing a bit of paper towel and just burnish that scratch free into that cup okay that's the inside surface now as i fill in here i've still got a little mass right in here but i've got a good inside curve so before i bring the tail stock up i'm going to try and shape this surface a little bit and if i don't need the tail stock to counter the vibration it'll allow me to check my thickness much easier light cuts [Music] sharp tool stop and check that's coming around nice i'm back up to my 2500 rpms i'm going to remove a little of this extra wood here so that i can bring this curve around a little further as i come back on here come to pick up my cut make sure i'm anchored to the rest find my bevel and i tickle that tool back and forth until i pick up a cut now my eyes are going from the tip of the tool to the horizon to see the shape and the tool work done bring that curve around lower my rest just a touch that'll give me a little bit better access remove a little bit of waste out of the way cutting a fillet right here now if i just brought this bowl around all the way through here if i just brought that bowl all the way around into a thin stem i'd have no strength and it would be very easy to pop that that right off of that little thin stem so i'm going to do a fill it here or a flat and then go into a cove arm just bumped the potentiometer for a second lowered my rpms brought my rpm back up there's my fill it before i continue on here i'm going to get something some tail stock support in here i'm going to get my revolving center put it in my tail stock i'm going to put the cone back on it i think that'll fit a little bit better for what i'm doing i'm going to take a little bit of paper towel fold up a nice little pillow gently bring this in i don't want the tip to embed down in i don't want a point in the bottom of that cup and i don't want to knock it off of its center so it feels like it stayed on center i'm going to move a little bit of wood out of the way here for that i'm going to come in with my bowl gouge this is my 3 8 bowl gouge it takes a couple of heavy cuts [Music] and a couple in my book is three i know i'm messed up but that's the way it is today come back with my spindle gouge and refine that cove going in now as i come around with this tool and i come around i want to watch this big wall of end grain i don't want to contact that with my wing my open cutting edge that'll lead to a definite catch so i'm going to stop just shy of where the last cut ended so i don't pick up that wall of wood okay that's still pretty heavy it's about 3 8 of an inch and i'm going to come back and sand this surface here because once i neck this down to the final surface i don't want to put the tension on here that it'll take the sand reducing my speed from the 2500 to about a thousand rpms i'm going to come up underneath support my sandpaper with both hands get into that fill it so get into that fill it with the corner of the paper and move through the grits now i've put red lines on each of my sheets this one has four so i know it's 400 the previous one had three it was 240. one before that had two 180 and i started with one line at 120. now when i get to 600 that's way too many lines for me to draw and i've only got five fingers so i can't count to six so i put one squiggly line on the paper now that i've got this sanded out to 600 i'm gonna prepare it for finish like i did the inside with my scratch free coat a little bit on burnish it in with the lathe running take my thumbnail right into that fillet behind the paper towel so that it gets finished same equal all the way down go to a clean part of the cloth and i've got that cup done down to the fillet bringing my tool rest back around from my thousand rpm back up to my 2500 i want to be careful on this start i don't want to have that skid back up so that i make certain that i'm anchored to the rest and that my bevel makes contact first [Music] before i sweep around in that cove you decide how thin thin is we're about 3 16 of an inch right there i'm going to come back to my bowl gouge again 8 inch to 3 16 of an inch cut [Music] move wood out of the way [Music] little skate right there because i didn't get the tip into the of the tool in the cut first i came in and i let that lower wing make contact because i have my handle down that'll be important to know when i get to the end of this right now it doesn't affect anything it just kind of chews things up a little bit i can afford to skate here i can't afford to skate down here using the wing of the gouge i'm now shear scraping down to the diameter i'll turn the tool over turn the tool over and come back from the top of the cup for the top of the stem down check your diameter again waste off a little bit more wood [Music] waste out a little bit more wood three or four cuts using the wing cut back i want to be careful as i come out on this area that i don't i'm really careful with my cuts because i'm getting thin behind there i'm now going to come in again reduce my speed down to about 1500 this time i don't have a lot of diameter so i don't need to reduce the speed as much and that's cut fairly clean so i'm going to start with 240 grit 400 grit 600 grit a little scratch free just for safety sakes and it's not my safety i'm worried about here it's the stem safety i'm going to take a very small bit of paper towel rather than a full sheet and the safety i'm worried about is this somehow being able to grab it roll it up and if i've got a big bunch of paper towel there that could snap the stem bring my tool rest back in now i realize i'm doing this with the lathe running if you've got an older lathe with a capacitor start motor that'll also be one without an electronic variable speed those kick up from zero to whatever speed instantly i don't want this lathe to come up to speed instantly and snap that torque that cup right off the resistance from your tail stock can sometimes do that especially with the older machines so i don't move this all i don't drop all the way down to zero rpms on here if i don't have to and i tried to do this in one shot so if i need a break if i feel i need a break coming on i'll take it before i come down to this diameter but i try and do this stem and finish this in one session if possible [Music] repeat same cuts as before i even repeated the catch right there get some wood out of the way then with the tip of the tool then slide to the wing of the tool now if you don't want your stem to look like a wood dowel throw a bead or a little decoration in it you could also put a little taper to your stem looks quite nice clean that edge up a bit okay i'm getting closer to this end i don't want to have a skate now so i'm going to watch my starting cuts and i'm also going to start practicing what i want for a base or practicing my cuts for the base for me that's going to be a little bit of an og curve cove and a bead there is my skate very small [Music] bring my stem back so [Music] [Music] that was the skate i definitely didn't want to have but i've got the material i think i can get up underneath it uh clean that surface up i'll reach in and fill that i don't want to shut the lathe off and look at it so i'm going to do a similar design down here on the base is what i've got up on against the cup as far as putting an og curve onto the piece now my base is a little bit different it's got more of an og than the simple curve on there but they both ends have the fill on them i don't know if you picked it up right there but i had a little bit of trouble getting that tool to find an edge that tells me i'm starting to lose my sharpest edge off of this tool and it's really time to go to the grinder because that tip is not as sharp as it should be so i've switched over to my smaller spindle gouge so started in a cut with my parting tool got my same series of sandpaper 240 you see a little shiny spot right there that's the lowest spot on there i need to sand until it all looks the same has all the same surface texture to it going to drop back to 180 got some tool marks on the cove in this base and they're from the bevel of the tool their compression marks then go back to my 240. four hundred i've got one compression mark right there i could sand that out take my skew lay it flat on the rest long point into the piece and cut a little v groove and make it look like i intended a decoration there now as i come in to part this off i've already started a little bit of a groove where i want to start now i'm going to come in and take just about as 64 of an inch [Laughter] cut and i'm going straight across with that and then i'm going to angle in towards the stem but i've got that little surface flat right now and i've also kind of tapered this in a little bit this shoulder so that it doesn't anchor to the table it's got a lift to the table you can see that angle on my parting tool is angled in i cut a waste area out and then i come in and take a light skimming cut hoping that a little clearance angle but i'm hoping that as i come in with that light skimming cut that i get a cleaner surface then i would when i'm doing my heavier cut so waste first and then a light skimming cut i'm going to take a little bit more waste out of this reducing down from my 2500 rpms down to about 2000 rpms i'm down to about a quarter inch in diameter in that stem my left hand has came up over the headstock and is rested on the headstock and i've got the stem held between two fingers and almost got away from myself need to finish this lower end be a lot easier to do that while it's under power get the scratch free on there than it will be after i've parted this off again i don't want a big piece of paper here to get caught up now you could come in with a handsaw and gently separate that and there's nothing wrong with that and probably a good move especially if on your first ones i'm just going to gently whittle away and i want this cut to stop the head stock side of the piece i want to leave a nub in the goblet i'm more concerned about tearing fibers out of the goblet than i am about leaving a nub i no i didn't have much tension on that tail stock never part off when you're between centers with tension like that you even saw how that grabbed a little bit between the two nubs my next step is i'm going to take my chuck off and then put in my drill chuck and put a sanding mandrel in my drill chuck to sand this off so i'll set my goblet to the side for now clear my lathe tail stock out of the way banjo out of the way chuck out of the way blow the dust out of your morse taper wipe the dust off the morse taper put your jacob's chuck in i like the keyless jacobs chucks that way i don't have to worry about where i left my key last i've got a sanding mandrel in my jacobs chuck and a hundred piece of 180 grit abrasive only going to run with about 500 rpm here doesn't need a lot i'm not going to just place this flat against the disc i'm going to work on the edge and work it taking that nub off of there and you can see that's slightly concaved in that surface and i'm holding that off a little bit at an angle and roll that around i i prefer this method over going to a belt sander and trying to sand everything flat that little quarter inch cut that i did going in and kept that flat gives me a good indication or an indicator of where i can sand to and keep a flat surface and then as i'm working this piece i just kind of keep rolling it in my fingers as i get finer in my sanding i can let that kind of spin sometimes freely by itself it'll use its own inertia to spin them you see a little bit of that inertia there and just put a little resistance by pinching it from there i would move through the grits but you've seen one grit you've seen them all finish the bottom to the same standard that you did the top and then wax that surface and it's all ready for you to sign date and put the species on all right here's the two goblets that we worked with one this was the one that we started i showed you at the first this was the one that we did today this one's got an og curve in the bowl a little bit taller um line on it or a tulip curve and then a tapered stem we talked about both those design changes this one has the just a classic open bowl shape to it a thin stem a bead in there in the center of the stem and down to the foot so there's many design changes that you could do here and all ways to test out and practice with length diameter i remember years ago i made a small goblet out of a pen blank put a triple ribbon twist down through it so this was five inches tall three quarters of an inch in diameter african blackwood and i took it and i gave it to my wife and i told her happy birthday and she looked at it and said you usually do better than this and i said well gee thanks i thought i did pretty good with this and she said no you usually give me money so guess what my wife gets for her birthday every year now so try a few different design changes here you don't have to be too particular about the wood i want a good close grain hardwood but it doesn't have to be real expensive stuff it doesn't have to be walnut it could be your maples whatever you've got handy in your shop give it a go try a few designs have some fun here we'll see you later [Music] you

Channel: Craft Supplies USA

Views: 16,607

Keywords: craft supplies usa, woodturners catalog, woodturning

Id: QpugspYzRkY

Length: 83min 41sec (5021 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 18 2021