Turn a $12 Box in 10 Minutes - The EDC Box

if you are just starting out turning and we're stupid enough to tell people that that's what you are getting into well guess what they're gonna expect from you this holiday season yeah something turn and you might not have to develop the skills enough to do stuff that I would really show off well today I want to talk about a project that really doesn't take a lot of skill to do successfully but it's a good opportunity to refine the skills you have to apply elsewhere and I call these the EDC boxes I give it a funny name so people have to ask me what it's for and it gives you kind of a chance to practice your salesmanship marketing or BS skills cuz if you know the person you can basically give them a reason why you made it custom for them hey Bob I notice you go to barbecue a lot at lunch and you're always looking for a toothpick well I made you a custom mini Billy cub that's also a toothpick holder you can keep it in your truck yeah thanks Merry Christmas hey Annette I noticed you're constantly swapping out purses what do you have it well emergency box that you can transfer it guess what I was thinking of you when I made this currently maple EDC box you can store a couple $20 bills some aspirin a couple band-aids for the back of your heels yeah it's perfect for that and just carry this with you everywhere yeah made it just for you hey skip I know you're the family stoner and you always need a play set oh wait no no I'm not gonna you know Stevie see box for you now in all seriousness I don't know of anybody that couldn't use a small box that would hold toothpicks in the old days I used to call these needle boxes because people would carry sewing needles and sewing kits in them and they're just incredibly functional and you got a tight enough fit that they're not gonna open up just for random reasons now for me this is one of those products that I make as an entry-level purchase at art market because you know make those two $300 bowls vases and stuff like that boxes but not everybody that's walking through an outdoor market is spending that kind of money and I want to maximize the amount of cash I take from people so having something that I can charge between 10 15 20 bucks depending on what market on and that I've only got maybe 10 minutes on it and if you're just starting out you first one of these you'll probably spend 20 minutes on second one 15 but you get into this rhythm that you can really batch these out with this technique I'm going to show you because it pretty much takes all skill away except for one cut where you are creating the tenon where they seat together and that's the only thing you really have to focus on everything else is just artistic interpretation here let me show you what I'm talking about when you are batching something out for an art marquee or something like that it looks homemade the idea is none of them are going to look alike in the end product but the hard part the skill based part you want to be consistent no matter what you did design you do so the idea is the internals of it are all going to be identical in order to make the mortise and tenon joint I use a Forstner bit and if all my fortunates are the exact date where I bring down to this bottom section on the top portion and on the bottom section they are just the width of the head well I know they will all fit together and the only part of this that is critical for me to do right is the outside diameter of the tenon that's the only thing I really have to focus on the internal portion of it if I have a regular bit I can hollow it out to a certain depth on the interior say that red line and on the bottom go to that red line and that way every single one of these is going to be identical and to do that I create a template and I've been using this template for who knows how many years the entire width of it is the length of my initial blank that I cut and then I have all my diameters and measurement so that this is kind of an x-ray of each one of my boxes in order to start I basically round up all the scrap I have I do a lot of tops and I always seem to have an offcut of the big six quarter boards and as long as I can find a one inch square that can rip out of a board that's stock that I can do this is stuff that most people will consider trash so when the time arises I will cut up all my stock into one-inch boards which I can use that size for a lot of different projects now here's the deal one of the reasons why I think turning is so cool is because a situation just like this I know I want to do a project I come home from work you know you have dinner at 6 or 7 maybe spend a few hours with the family then you go out to the shop for a few hours at a time and you want to be able to actually get something done that you can share with other people again example the office party or this gift like here well if you've got stock prepped up like this you know 1 by 1 inch square is something that I will use for honey dippers muddlers magic wands and this kind of EDC box so you have a bunch of stacked right there you have your template real quickly I don't process it past this point until I'm ready to use it and at which point I'll take my little 6-inch tip on it with all my measurements I can drop it down get the settings just the way I want it so I'm going to be cutting this length right here and then it's just a magic cone over and pulling off however many you want to make that day now I very rarely do more than a dozen for the simple reason that's about all I can do in a few hours and if this is just the last day project that's all I really wanna do it gets kind of boring after that so I've got it one of the key things though is I've got to square off the ends because both sides have to be square so that's what we're gonna start out it and then how could I ever make blanks I want [Music] [Music] now I do suggest that you try to pick as many different species as possible but if you've got one long stick it's better finish that off and Oliva stubs right now here I got some pecan I think some hickory and something I just don't know that's got cool color to it now as far as what tools to you need this really could be considered a fairly limited to project obviously you need a lathe I'm going to use my own mini lathe because I believe that's probably what most of y'all have and the way I do it is I'm trying to save as much time as possible I need to repeat this is not my best work it's my best work in the time allotted because I am trying to do this as a price point you can spend a lot more effort in it and really refine it up but the tools I'm using and the techniques I'm using I'm trying to get it done fairly quickly so I prefer instead starting between Sina's using a chuck with spigot jaws now if you are a pen turner you could probably do this entire project with just a drive sperm and the same jigs you used to use your drill press to drill holes into pen blanks but I don't think very many people have that and I find that these are a lot more flexible in other art projects you can do those pinned like things are just kind of dedicated to pin blanks so I prefer doing it this way cuz I think it's a lot quicker basically this is just holds it so that I can grip it and drill into it other tools you'll see me use are those bits I discussed earlier but I use Jacobs chucks in my live sent block in my tailstock and this is one of those situations where in turning it's best to have two of these because most of the time when you are drilling stuff you're going to have to drill different sizes and while you can get away with one of them and just swap out bits it's just so much nicer to have two and they aren't that much money in the long run because these are our lifetime investments even the cheap ones other tools you'll see me use is I will use an awl I will use a flush cutting song I will use a slide knife and the tools I use it comes down to basically two different kinds I'm going to use a skew and I will tell you I have two different size skews here this larger one is the one I use most of the time there's just one or two designs I will use a smaller one and I will be using my spindle gouge now you can't be using any tools you want roughing gouge bulk out whatever you want but the main to cut you're going to be doing in this kind of project are going to be a planing cut and a slicing cut and those two cuts are just really easy to do with a skew and this is a great project to practice those because you screwed up you've only wasted maybe five minutes of time it's not that big a deal before finish because I'm doing this on a time crunch I'll use a little walnut oil Mahoney's to be specific and some beeswax and that's about it I mean really for a turning project that isn't that many tools oh I will sometimes use a wire burner it's just a guitar string with two knobs on the side to create some accents that's about it but the very first tool I use is a marking gauge on each one of these is incredibly important I find these Center so I will come over and use my marking gauge and while it might not be perfect if I go around four times the crosshatch will find a perfect spot on it and I'm going to do this to all my blanks before I start out because it's best to do all one step at one time and then I'm going to take my all find that Center and make a little divot and that divot it's going to be easier to find on the live drive and my drive spur at the time because the load driving pins would just kind of slot into it because this project dilk deals with hauls in the dead center and once the wood is together we're totally blind where those are it's incredibly important to have those Center marks now to mount the work as I said earlier I use a spigot jaw now my opinion is spigot jaws are not really the best one out best things out there because there's a lot of force on the outside if you are squeezing this because the the torque is coming down inside so it wants to kind of bend these or something like that so I don't really like using spigot jaws I would much rather have a good tenant on a side so I could but that shoulder that tenant up against the jaws and squeeze down that really locks it in but once again I'm going for speed here and with this project right here I'm going to push it all the way in so that that flat spot that was very careful about making registers against the jaws then the squeezing action is going to actually come up here and all the spigots are actually doing is kind of stabilizing it a little bit not much now squeeze it down once again it's squeezing up here and these are just kind of stabilizing it and from there I've got a mark out where I'm going to divide it and why is that important even though I'm trying to do these fast one of the things that really impresses people is when the grain aligns up and one of the common ways people do this pro this type of project is they drill a hole on this side to drill a hole in that side then shape it and separate it and kind of reverse them and bring together and if you do that one the grain will always be opposite you're never going to be reaction we actually want to bring this piece of wood back together with all these lines in it in the same orientation so in order to do that we've got to separate it here drill holes in the middle and then bring it back so the first step is to separate it out and because the head of the box is always shorter that's what I put in here so now I will go get my template I'll find the top section on it and I the way I've got it laid out is I bump it up against that right there and I've got my division right here so I will go ahead and make a fairly dark pencil line and when I turn it on I can actually see that pencil line so I will take my freshly sharpened thin parting tool right on that line I've just put it rise it up and you cutting me off yes now you don't want to go all the way to the center with this tool because it will bind up on you well after I go a little ways I'll come over about half the width of the tools then plunge in again come back again locate your way down until you get to a point where you're brave enough now there is a chance it will pop off on this side so if you want to you can bring a tail stock in and that probably will be a good thing for this demonstration the safe thing for me to demonstrate but I'm doing this as quickly as I possibly can so from here I will gently move this over grab my saw saw it off just like that here move your tool rest back and you're going to notice there's a little bit of a clump right here that clump could mess up your force from bit or the brad point alignment cuz you want to hit dead in the center so what I would do a lot of times is I will take my skew I laid down flat and use it as somewhat as a spray fir and just make us like recess right there for the Brad point bit to fall into I will also somewhat hollow out this with a spray can pack using the lower wing at a negative tango and I discuss this in my four cuts video how you can use these cool follow that the center section that way when the two halves meet the outside will always meet before the inside now this being the top it's going to actually use two sized holes if you remember the first is going to be a Forstner bit and it comes down in and the reason why you go for the first one this one being is because that center spur will create a spot for the brad point bent spur to fit in so they will both Center each other so I'm just going to come in here and the way I do this one is I measure it towards the bottom of the blank black of that shank right there so you put it into the tool rest now here's a kicker the tourists cannot be in its fully retracted position right now you see how it's got some wiggle in there this cone is actually there's a push out bar so when you retract it these will push themselves out so you actually have to extend it out a little bit so it will fully see them so now there's no wiggle give it a little twist now anytime you're using a Forstner bit or a drill in the tailstock to drill a hole you kind of have to hold it with your hand and keep that tight in there because it could loosen up now I'm gonna do something that they always tell you not to do is I'm gonna come forward to the point where it touches and then I'm gonna back off a little bit then I'll lock my tail stock down then I'm going to lower the gearing on my lathe even though this has a variable speed right here you still have a low medium high and this is gonna be a high torque situation I typically put it in the medium for all of this step for the simple reason it allows me to do that separating cut and the drilling cuz these holes aren't that big all the same step now if I was just doing the drilling I would probably do it in my low gear but so right now I'm relocating it into the medium gear getting this other way and I'm going to drill a hole as they tell you you do it in normal thing everything's locked down I'm holding the Chuck I've got the lathe turned to a fairly low speed and then I use the quill advancement to drill the hole once a heads buried I start paying attention to that little black line black rim and once that is at in line with the edge that's when I stop back it off to back it out turn it off then untighten my tail stock come back forward and reverse it and that's gonna push my Jacob's Chuck out because you're not going to be able to get it out by hand okay then I grab the other Jacobs Chuck now this drill bit is going to be the same size to the top and bottom it's going to it's creating the orifice for all your items to go into the Forstner bit created the tenon for the joint and on that I have two red lines marked the first red line is for the top depth the second red line is for the bottoms of death so once again you have to advance it go forward a little bit so this will fully seat get it locked in not to drill the top section make sure you can see your red line I will not lock my tail stock down I'm just going to press forward with it because the center of the bit is going to find the center of that fourth bit that's going to Center it but the key thing is I've got a lot of pressure going down because if I don't have my tail stock locked there's nothing keeping this so it won't ask you rock on its own so I have to keep pressure down here as I move forward to lock everything make it tight so I'll do a whole straight hole and once again you turn it on to a fairly low speed I got my pressure down and then pushing forward on the back of the tailstock through the center [Applause] I just find that a lot faster now the last thing I'm going to do is probably a bit on the stupid side because my lathe does not have a reversing function it is turning clockwise counterclockwise right now so that's why you always cut on this side you here to cut on that side the force is not actually going down into the tailstock it's actually coming off but I want to put a slight bevel on this right on that edge so that when a customer combines the two pieces together it kind of slides into that hole and less chance that they will torque it and break it off so having a slice of bevel right there is beneficial and the reason why I'm saying I'm going to do something stupid it's because I'm actually going to take my skew and because I don't have a reverse I'm going to go on the other side I'll go press down really really hard on this side and then just lightly touch it just scrape that bevel if I go too fast there's a chance it's gonna catch and drag it around now in tongue go like that so there we go we are now done with these joinery part of the top so take that out notice I've still got that piece in here we're doing it in order to eliminate steps and I've got this side I'm going to make sure I put the side in that has that nub on it cuz that's where I divide it off it's gonna be nice smoother square on this side I press it all the way in tighten it up and the first step we need to do is square that off oh and this is a good point I want you to look at this when this thing is spinning if I put something dark behind it can you see how there's kind of this shadow set up us turn the speed down see it gets more obvious that is not in the chucks square see how that center section it's dancing around which means that maybe this piece of wood was a little bit twisted or something like that or for whatever reason so whenever I square this off and drill a hole in the now Center it's not going to be the same Center as this piece right here it's going to be a little bit offset and that's going to show itself off whenever you look at the grain direction we're never going to actually be able to get them to be perfectly lined lined up there always be a slight offset because it is not centered in the jobs this is an example of I'm doing as good as I can in the time allotted once again if I were doing the best I could time unlimited I would have put Tenon's on these each and I would centered it up on each side and that would have made it dead perfect but that's also spending another 20 minutes per I'm also doing different setups on the jaws and there's just a lot more effort going into this I'm trying to eat eliminate as many steps to eliminate as much labor and just dealing with the fact that it's not going to be perfect as part of that it's also why don't charge as much so right now I'm just going to square that off and you can do that with several different tools I myself is what I'm going to use my skew because I can line up this edge right here to create my line and I'm gonna make a peeling cut from top to bottom I'm not trying to remove much wood right here because the more wood I remove the more the green will not align up plus a fact these spigot jaws are not the strongest in the world so I now have it flat I couldn't need to create a slight center point for the drill bit to start into and now we're going to drill it and this time when were you when I drill in I'm going to go to my second red line the first one is right here the second one is right there I'm not sure you can see that in the video by a stick of Sharpie it marked through the gullet so it would stay there for consistency so turn on the speed make sure it is not too high so you don't overheat your drill bit so I'm gonna unlock it I'm going to hold on to my Jacobs chuck make sure it is firmly pressed in as possible I'm gonna be putting pressure down so it doesn't wiggle that much and then I'm just going to slowly go forward now the key thing is I'm pressing back here right in line I'm not pressing over or anything like that I'm just going forward then every mac now then coming out and letting the saw it and sawdust come out because I saw dust which preached so much of the heat and back it out restored pack it out last one let's try stop at the red line now it's time to set the depth of our shoulder so we have the cap right here we want this little tenon right here to go in a certain depth but we don't want it to go in so that bottoms out on the inside of that ledge right there and if you remember we set that ledge by utilizing the Forstner bit we went all the way to that black line black band right there so if now we just set the depth of this tenon to the wet of the I guess you call that crown we know we won't go too far so real quickly I'm going to take the depth of my Forstner bit not going all the way to the tip just to the rim right there and I'm going to make me a pencil line then you can just extend that all the way across and that'll be dark enough that as its spinning we'll be able to see it now this next step is really the only difficult part in the whole project we're gonna fit this tenon to the mortise we created earlier I'm going to do that with a peeling cut now I want you to notice my skew gouge it is pretty much straight going from here to about right there and that's when it starts to curve down or it leaves that's how I try to sharpen it but if you look at the angle it is angled and a skew that's why they call it the skew so in order for that to be flat I actually have to not go in straight but at an angle so that what you can see me do is a peeling cut but I want you to notice the cutting edge is perpendicular with the excuse me it's parallel with the grain and I'm basically going to set that shoulder in line now I'm not going to worry too much about getting a perfectly clean cut on this shoulder right now I'm just going for the depth and through practice you're gonna know know how far to go and then we will fine-tune it so here we go I turn up the speed I was still in the middle gear I'm just going to have to go a little bit slower because of the lathe it's not turning as fast feeling cut yeah pretty close if you don't know what I mean by a peeling cut I do suggest you watch that for cuts videos I did earlier but then I'll come back up just meeting up with it then right now I'm right on that pencil line under there's a really slow so I get the cleanest shoulder I can but it's not that critical now from here I'm going to lift up my skew so that's now as a negative I'm going to kind of do a load of tail right there and with that I can take my mortise right here and I just touch it to it and it's not going in at all right now so I know that I can now bring this shoulder down and totally eliminate that dovetail right there so just slowly bring it down and to that pair of is gone and then add another dovetail so with the bevel there and the bevel on the inside as you can see they the two Bebo's marched together and as you do a few of these you're gonna get to the point where on the first try you can get there after that we're going to start sneaking up on it so what I want to do is just slowly bring that to about half that bevel height I've got ease into it at this point I am still using a peeling cut start I come down because he shavings coming off and now I'm cutting then I'm gonna ghin see it still it goes on a little bit further you can see the burnishing marks that we're getting where those fibers are actually compressing so I know that that bevel is now touching on those burnishing marks so I can actually take those burnishing mark so I'm going to come down a little bit more and this time instead of trying to come across straight on the angle the start beginning to bring my skew out a little bit so it's gonna give a slight taper to what I'm removing I'm just gonna make those burnishing marks go away you can see where it is starting to cut meaning it's time there okay so now I can come over test it again and you can see I'm now going farther in a little bit the burnishing marks car coming up quite a bit farther so I can now bring this all the way across to that level where the burnishing mark is and once again I am still doing a peeling cut that certain point I could come in here and bring this down so that the angles not presenting it as a neighbor break and started doing scraping if I want to take finer and finer cuts over now test it down you do not want this to be too loose bringing it in and see how far it will go and it will pretty much go all the way down now but it is extremely tight so at this point in time I'm going to revert to sandpaper I have some 220 grit sandpaper and if I hold the sandpaper so-so holding you I can pretty much guarantee it's going to be straight and I just slowly sand it down until it fits on tightly but not too snugly see I'm still burnishing as I go down so if I just sand off the burnishing marks I'll get closer and closer to the perfect fit [Applause] still going on easier and eventually if I just kind of twist it the burnishing czar gonna make it fit just perfectly there we go we have the perfect fit now I can't emphasize enough the value of sandpaper when you're ging those last final kind of fittings especially when you have such a long Tennant and we need that long tenon so that we can get that poppin airtight seal that we like so much as it presses the customers and a little bit of oil will dramatically loosen this up whenever we finish it but for the most part I am now done with the antenna interior section everything else is decorative so while we've got this set up the way we go just throw this down load up another one and start the whole process over here's a little montage for you [Music] [Music] so now that you got the last of the joinery all done it is time to change the setup and whenever I do these segments I kind of base it when I'm working on the lathe on the lathe setup I would do as much as I possibly can before I need to change something here and in this particular project basically we only have two cells one with this spigot jog Chuck and the other between live centers between centers so for the rest of the project I like to use a drive spur and specifically one with good teeth on this is a force per one and whenever you squeeze that work between sinners this will actually dig into the end grain and give you a lot of bite to it whereas if you are just learning and want to practice with tools like the skew which I'm going to be just demonstrating here this might be a better option it's called a cup drive and you can see it's not going to bite it's actually going to transfer its power through friction spread over a larger area that way if you get a bed catch your work will kind of spin on this make a squeaky sound you can back off and they'll just go again no big deal I just don't like it because I get kind of aggressive with my tools and this slips a little bit too much I prefer these four spurs which have a lot more biting you'll also want to drop a live Center in the back I prefer the cone ones like this because it just gives me more room to work to the point though yet to be careful because this can split wood if you get too aggressive with a rear firm and then it's just a matter of taking that point that we did with our all's lining up the two points there and squeezing it together now I will say once you get this set on the first one you are not going to have to really change it but you want to extend it out a little bit here so you have some room to move the quill so you can lock the and never have to move it again for this project now if you are more comfortable using things like a roughing gouge and spindle gouge than that kind of stuff hey use it but I would encourage you if you are just learning and this is kind of an entry-level project that you want to repeat you know a dozen times so you can get some good practice and work on your skills then go with a skew because I'm pretty much going to use ask you for about everything from here on out and this is a great practice especially in this first step where all I'm doing is making a cylinder to practice your planning cuts because you're turning to be training so much air if you do get catch you that catch kind dissipates in the air it's just easier to control it's just great practice but the first step is change those gears and you're in high speed because we're going wide for open from here on out now a lot of people are scared with speed and if you are deterring big heavy bowls I would say yes that is intimidating you really kind of want me to watch your speed but if you're turning pins and stuff this small speed is your friend once you've got a square between centers that is the safest thing you could be turning and the speed will actually make everything smoother and more competence inspired so right now I have my lathe in its slowest setting in high gear but even at the speed so you have my cool bounces it's because there is enough time for gravity to work so it's gonna come down into these gaps and that is very disconcerting whereas if I were to turn the speed up gravity no longer has enough time to make it work and just kind of it's not as hard it also allows you to use the wood more like a solid piece for example if you watch my 4 cuts video I talked about riding the bevel and how that is so important because it controls the depth of your cut well in this situation I can touch my toe to the tool rest I can touch a tool bevel down I'm not cutting but it is a nice it's allowed but it's smooth on my hand it's not jarring whereas if I had that speed down low there's just more impact coming into my hand at the higher speed I can treat it more like a solid piece of wood I touch it bevel come off move the cross [Music] that's basically what I do to rough this out using a skew I was starting [Music] then when I get closer to the edge I just flip it around [Music] and I flip it around because you always want to be going off the would come into the wood off the edge because there's a good chance of getting a heavy catch and it's just not as safe now when you're doing this you have to be careful now right now I have the standard drive spur that comes with my jet lay and I like using it on this project because if you notice I'm now just about round but I have you know a good eighth of an inch spacing right there so I can tell when I'm getting close to it being perfect because it's slightly smaller than the one-inch block I have on this now you have to be careful on that one because if you hit the metal it's it's nasty so if you want that the Cup Drive is a little bit smaller than this and it's probably a little bit safer I just use that as a gauge for my thickness so I know when I'm getting close to being perfectly round got a little bit more to go here [Applause] [Music] see shavings I've got the shavings coming off those about a quarter of the way up you never want to go past half way and then just keep it moving forward [Music] as long as you were going down here really some nice smooth finish now once you notice something remember earlier when I was saying that the holes were not going to be aligned up and that was a lower quality than I could do because I was trying to save time well here's what I'm talking about this is pretty much lined up perfect close right here close right there it's almost dead-on on that grain right there now you do have a bit of a gap because we did remove a little bit of the center section so something that can be caused by that but when you have it the two pieces that are kind of offset opposite what's going to happen it's going to line up perfectly one spot and the other and that is one of two reasons why I never leave this joint right here perfectly smooth on just about any box in any style I make the second reason is this is now ingrained whenever you add a oil finish which I pretty much always do it absorbs into the end grain a little bit more that's why the ends of boards are generally a little bit darker than the faces so that line which looks practically invisible now even you notice it because of the grain not lining up perfectly it will become a very noticeable line after I add oil to it so at this point in time I've got this perfectly smooth before I do any decorating I'm gonna add a V cut where I'm going to use a very tip of my blade and just I'll enhance that line it's a very simple I start up by I just aim right for that line I push down into it then I come over on either side come down like that playin it up [Music] now I want you to notice what just happened those grains even though they aren't perfectly lined up they now look perfectly lined up because I have that space that's separating plus the fact even though the in grains going to become quite a bit darker than the long grain it looks appropriate so at this point in time I'll come over I'll grab my template again making sure the top is going to the top side me personally I always put the top on that side just so I know it's for certain I can lay that and now I have a 3d x-ray of the interior so I can now mark my two ends and I did this overall length way back in the beginning of about six inches remember we've already cut off a little out of the center that's why that is so that I have this space on either end because I knew the two points were going to squeeze in the middle and even though you might take away the hole there's still pressure right there that would change the colors and this just gives me room to work this right here I'm going to turn it on and just do my line that right there I get every single one of them to this stage and then I can start doing whatever artistic designs I want and if you are doing this in a small batch production run of a dozen it's a good challenge to tell yourself hey out of a dozen no two are gonna be identical plus the fact that gives you options and when you presenting them as a whole if they're all the same in generic someone looks machine-made but if you're at an art market or you're presenting a whole bunch to a friend telling them to pick one out they can get pick one that they like the best so they feel that they're getting the best of the bunch I mean at reality it's just their opinion so we want to do a dozen totally different but for this first one the first technique I'm gonna walk you through my most basic and popular design and show you the steps and then I'll break down the different elements you can add to each design so here we go my basic setup the idea is I just want a gentle curve starting from the base coming forward and blending in the middle that will give them it visually looks like you can grip two parts and pull apart that way so to do that one I'm going to first add V cuts on either end and they will go about halfway down I start high touchdown and now if you remember from our three booth template I have a good half hint of solid wood on either end so I don't have to worry too much about that time to do this around the spare it's not that easy okay from here I can remove a little bit of the trash on your end that'll give me some working room and then it's just a matter of nice planning cuts terminating right there from each side start here make one reverse it come the other one once again I'm going around the family kind of hard to do [Music] yeah this just trijet [Music] where my v-cut barely goes away not quite but still there but still get all those benefits that's just a nice smooth transition okay now I want you to pay attention to something right now this particular piece is a nice piece of pecan and it's got a nice glossy finish now very smooth I'm going to hit it with some sandpaper a little bit but I'm gonna be starting at about 320 so you don't have to go to too aggressive if you've got nice technique and you're using a sharp gouge but one of the great things about working with a skew is you get to practice what different cutting angles will do see I can present my tool right now so that the wood is coming in and where I'm touching right about there that is actually a pretty steep angle coming in that way if I were to bring my skew more this way it's a lot less of an angle and different woods hardwoods versus softer woods will react differently to different angles so you can actually control you start feeling that you're getting some tear out bringing the angle down if your yours noticing a rougher cut and you want it smoother you bring it up so you get to play with angles with a skew that it's much harder to feel with a lot of the other tools like just a roughing gouge so now I'll turn the speed down I'll do a quick sanding I believe I have 220 with 320 on this side and 400 on this side and a lot of people will say hey Shawn you need big respirators and stuff like that and normally I would have it but in talking the camera will risk it this time so this is about all the sanding I'm going to do on this one I just keep sanding it to us see the transitions are the same then I'll go up to the higher grit I will blow off all the sawdust now go start adding finish in the finish I preserve prefer because it's quick and I want to be able to sell these is just a little bit of walnut oil and I'm talking a very minor amount now everyone's gonna tell you use paper towels on these I like using cloth because it absorbs the oils and waxes and after a while if you do this enough you don't even have to have to apply more you can actually start adding finish just by running it along there like that and all the oils and waxes already absorbed here get transferred over this is the first one of it this day so I start out I'll put the drag underneath because it's rotating towards me and I'll just drizzle a little bit of oil on it and then the oil that's now in the rag is good for a couple of these things now I'm going to turn it up go find a dry portion of the rag I'm gonna put some heat into it notice I am NOT wrapping it around and the way I'm holding it if it flings out of my hand it's just gonna come out my thumb and stuff like that I'm not gonna be wrapped up in it now I'm just adding heat that heats gonna I don't want to secure the oil but it kind of makes it go deeper into the wood cells so it's not gonna feel oily right away from there I just grabbed a piece of beeswax run it along get the speed up and then melt that into the piece that's what's gonna give you the really cool feeling like you put a lot of work into sanding and stuff like that what they're actually feeling is that wax and that wax can be rebuffed over and over and over for a couple years and now notice that centre line right there it is a lot darker because it's absorb the oil and the waxes now all we got to do is part it off and you could do that you know with a saw or whatever you want I could come over and just continue doing my feet cuts on this side and when you're doing this always work on the spinning side not the drive side that's where all you twerk is I'm gonna get this fairly narrow on this side right here we'll work on the drive side now slicing cut is going to be there very clean but I want you to see something let's see if we can zoom in on this I've got it narrow it's right where I wanted to break it off I've got a little gap over here what I'm actually going to do thank you place right here for to break off away from where I want it let me explain that a little bit better whenever I separate it I'm not gonna separate it next to my workpiece I'm actually gonna separate it right there I'm gonna leave this nub there the reason being is one when would start to get very thin it'll actually twist off and when it twists off you're gonna get a hole going into your piece well if I separate it off a little bit away from my final piece well even if that hole comes in it's not gonna be left in the final work and I can remove the rest with sandpaper or a knife so now that I've got that to the thickness I want it I'm gonna go over to this side and just show you the difference this time I will use a spindle gouge come over and do the same exact thing with remove the material this is just a lot thicker tools they get to remove more material to get it in there then come up into fresh wood and make a nice slow why sing cut [Music] and once again I'm going to come up a little ways and create a Z so it will separate off they're not somewhere else now at this point in time you could remove it and just use a saw or something else to get them off and that'd be the safe way to go a lot of times I will go ahead and separate it off with my skew on this side and then just do that side of this saw so that's why I'll show you how to do so I'm gonna reach around I'm gonna get get it fairly thin the reach-around get ready to catch it there we go I lost my clip I just had but whenever you're doing this off with the saw you would have that Vika you don't want to go straight across what you want to do is you kind of take it to the side and angle it up and then just make a smooth cut you know pop off you only be left with that nub that's right there at which point I will grab my slide knife and using my thumb as a pivot point my hand my hands drawing back so I'm actually making a slicing cut and you start kind of whittling up until it gets flat and then you can start slicing it so it gets smooth and I will I would do this until I see no more tool marks and doesn't take much and notice my fingers are underneath so even if it slips it's not gonna hurt me at which point I will go a little bit more right there at which point I will grab my sandpaper whether that 220 or 320 I forget to do some quick sanding until I see no tool marks still see a little bit there once I see no tool marks go to the 400s buff it polish it and go grab that rag that you just used with all the oil and wax in it and using a lot of pressure build up some heat and there you go you have no tool marks nice shape grain lines up the interior I do not finish the interior at all because that I'm sewing it for not much money now if it's a way too tight for you you can take your rag and just make a few passes to get a little oil on that one and it will really loosen it up a lot of times I do too much and it gets too tight too loose so there's the first design my most simple design seems to be the most popular one now it's all fine and dandy to put as much decoration as you want into these things I know some people can buy special tools to add chatter marks and hashtags and stuff like that but I kind of limit myself to just beads and codes because they're quick and once again I'm at a price point but once again if you've made a dozen of them you only have probably 7 minutes into them so far maybe 10 if you're taking your time you're not wasting much material or effort just to experiment so we're loading this one up on this one I'm going to show you beads coves and some ways to add other kinds of decorations really quickly so here we go let's rough it out [Music] [Music] there we go see if we got us round a little bit more [Music] at the v-notch on the joint [Music] now we're at a place where we can start decorating so I will add my ending spots in beginning spots I would go ahead and add in my V notches on the end to designate those in case my lines are going to go away [Music] yeah some people like kind of a lipstick where the top is a definite cap so you can actually blend this into the base of that one and leave this tall that's what I'm going to do I'm gonna start over here as I come closer I move my doubts a little bit farther so the shavings start coming off here where they're doing it and then as I get close to that spot they bring it over here so eventually I'm pushing off right at that point that allows me to get really close into there start pushing forward there we go nice little curve try not to leave any tool box okay now I want to add some beads right here so what I'm going to do is I'm going to add two V notches and this is these are such small beads after that I'm actually gonna round them over with the same thing [Music] but in order to make them look like beats I now have to lower this section right here so that's why I had that slightly smaller skew because just as practice for you we can come in at different angles so I'm gonna come over here the same exact thing I think come in this way I'm actually gonna rub the bevel off of the bead right now I can get a nice [Music] there we go if you want to make it perfectly flat you can then come in with the gouge at a scraping angle the way flat if you do that one it's going to be quite a bit rougher you can see the difference in texture whoo I got some tear out right there so I need to go down a little bit deeper but that's a lot smoother because that was a planning cut that's a scraping cut and then from here the normal sanding will round over that bead now when I am shaping I do like to have my dust collector because it makes a lot more of a mass Punk I have a little bit coarser grit right here I want to say this is 220 that was 320 let's just come over here and that'll round it over without spending too much time on it and there we go ready for finish another decoration can do really fast I'll kind of dress up a boring design is adding lines now you can do two couple different things right here but here's one quick suggestion we never do more than two lines because if you only do two lines the spacing will always be perfect but if you do three well there's a chance the gap won't be equal so just two lines is easier to control the cosmetics of it now me personally I like this look because after I stand it the little rough is gonna go away and the oil will get into those lines and then absorbed into the end grain a little bit more so it will bring them out but some people would like to actually make them black by burning them so because you had that v-notch you can take a guitar string this one just happens to have two balls on the end get it in that groove and just bring some pressure down until you see some smoke and that will blacken it up that looks high contrast here but this is pecan and cano darken quite a bit whenever I all this so les will quickly sand it blow it off add our oil burn heat it in then you add your wax you don't want to add too much wax when you've done those lines because the wax can get inked by those lines add your heat find the dry spot you rang to get off the excess there you go a fairly boring design that's a little bit dressed up now if you make one of them a little bit too tight which a lot of y'all were sitting there watching me while it's video sayin that's way too tight well here's one that was game up there in it it's way too tight for the customer I mean I could twist and burnish it to make it loose but here's a way you can loosen them up just take a little bit of oil and I'm not even doing this for finish I'm just doing one little corner like that right there see what I did right there and then whenever you twist that on okay how much looser this becomes you don't want to do too much oil because it will become too loose that was tight enough that I actually had to grip it really hard to twist it and now it'll pop off with fingers so you make it too tight you can always loosen it after the fact and make it too loose well one trick is to dry it dribble with some super glue then super glue around here and let that dry and it kind of gets a core so it will just kind of grip a little bit better but it won't look very good well there you go a bunch of shortcuts to help you batch out a small production run of some really useful gifts that you can give out in the office or family and friends whatever you want so let's show off your skill even though you're still learning those skills to begin with well I hope you enjoyed this picked up a little bit of knowledge and are willing to get out there at least try it in the shop y'all be safe have fun and remember that it is always worth the effort to learn great stuff and share it with others I got six more to do before morning and it's ten o'clock on a Friday night yes be safe have fun

Channel: wortheffort

Views: 379,664

Rating: 4.8570857 out of 5

Keywords: wortheffort, wood, woodworking, woodturning, turning, box, simple, needlebox, needle box, EDC, pillbox, pill box, pill, needle, basic, beginner, skew, gouge, lathe, turn, art, market, skill, technique, learn

Id: L7G0KgHf6TI

Length: 66min 8sec (3968 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 11 2019