Richard Raffan turns a cross-grain box

hello i'm richard raffan and in this video you'll see how i made this little cross grain box so these are going to be uh a box basically that kind of shape that's because this is falling in half so uh the main thing is the lids made first i just roughed that out with a kind of tenon on the end and i want to get that true because the size of the lid has impact on what i do with the base and then i'm going to then i'll make the base and then the lid gets fitted to the base later this was made um gripped by chuck around the outside i'm not quite sure how i'll grip this one and we'll deal with that when we need to know so that's broadly where we're going with this one in this project you see just about every cut there is with the standard tools around face work so this will be the lid because of the bark on it um so this will be the inside which is where i'm going to drill the hole the bottom one ah that's got a little bit of bark and the chances are the base is going to be wider than the top of the base so that'll be the center of the uh that'll be the um the base now i've had to eyeball that center and uh the more you eyeball the better you get at it generally but you might pay to check and just see how we go [Applause] a whole millimeter out so i'm on form today so just need to drill a couple of holes so this is going to be the the in the top of the bottom now you see on the drill here when i spin it you see some lines and that tells me how deep i need to go all tells me where i am and where i am is a flat battery but i've got enough of a hole there looks like i've got another battery ready to go right so i do the lid section first now i don't need all this screw on the chuck so i'm just going to space that out so a couple little spacers so i've got about uh i don't know three eighths of an inch about eight or nine mil sticking out that'll be that so and just make sure it's right on now all i want at the moment is to get this round and have a tenon on the end so i've got a lot of options as to what shape i'm going to do and this is clara ash it's bone dry and i'm going to use the half inch spindle gouge to rough down which is what i normally use in these situations so hand on the rest i'm just going to swing the edge through the corner [Music] now from here i'm just swinging the tool through an arc there and i can go on swinging and then i've got the bevel riding here which means i can just use a sheer cut up to the end don't go racing off the edge because that just splinters the rim so roll the tool over and just use the right wing ease that in so still a little flat area there i want to get rid of down across the bottom i'm going to use the left wing tools pretty well on its side to start and then drop the handle and roll the tools up slightly open the flute up so it's out about 45 degrees [Music] now where is the bark which is the main thing here so i don't want that in the final piece um that's where the bark is at the moment so just mark that and that's about the right size for a chuck anyway so for the time i've there's the other bit of the bark so i'll just take away that bit and a foot at the end of that cup the tool's right on its side squeeze it back and then the jaws will seat right in that corner it doesn't need to be dovetailed it can just be just be straight in and that'll be fine and that's really all i need to know at the moment i'd like this flat on the top [Applause] or slightly concave so that's the lid section done whoops and you can see that short screw grips pretty well and at this stage i just get an idea of where my lid's going to be in relation to the base will be fine so let's find that on normally i kind of throw these onto the screw but there this blank's just a bit light for that so all i do again here is true up what i've got so i want to get rid of the the bark and i'm going to throw up the bottom so so that's the shear cut from there i've got the bevel lined up with where i want to go which is straight in once i'm in there this is the three spin uh half inch spindle gouge there now the [Music] the bottom i can still go another i'll probably take off nearly half an inch off the diameter and i can come up from the other end for that now i'm going to have a an underhand grip here my finger comes underneath the rest and then i've got my thumb on the top and that gives me much more control and if i've got my hand and i'm pushing so i can only go so far physically and i've got just a lot more control pushing on my thumb and these fingers are resisting now coming around the bottom there's quite a bit of to come off here so i'm going to tend to have the rest of the angle because then my hands here out of the way if i have the rest across here it's just not so easy not so comfortable a little squeeze here the tool here is moving pivoting on the end of the handle rather than on the rest if i move the rest in i can take i pivoted on the rest i can't take off too much what we'll do is just squeeze in like that now i can come across and take a sheer cut [Music] so you can see the bevel starts with the tool on it and the tools on its side bevel here onto the wood pivot the tool forward roll it very slightly clockwise to get a shaving little shaving then you can move [Music] now stop it and look see what defects there are there's a knot there which i can probably cope with i started turning when a defect was a defect and if i had anything like a knot in it even it was filled people would not buy the work in the early 70s had to be clear of everything so i've got a base there um i'm just going to smooth that off with the uh the scraper ease it back a little bit just so i've got more room to angle the tool [Music] if i go very hard here that's vibrating because the top of the blank isn't absolutely flat so you just need to go more gently [Music] stroke the surface just check that that's flat again so now i've got that now i've got to decide what to do with the base now if we look at the half bowl with the base here i've got two options this was a demo piece i did somewhere or other and because of the chucks available i had to expand inside a recess now there are two downsides to that one is you reduce the depth to which you can hollow or it means you've got a very thin section which when the work starts to scream at you and you don't get as good a grip if you're gripping there as you do on the outside so i much prefer to grip around one of these little beads if i can and so um that's what i'm going to do i hope with one of my bigger chucks so just i have dividers already set to the chucks so i can come down with that um another way of doing it is to i can just grip that now and then take away any chuck marks later and i might even do that or will i know but i'll just come down to this size and then i'm going to grip around the outside so the idea here is going to be to make a mark there's center the little white dot in the middle uh make a mark with the left so it lines up with the right point which is going to be just about there [Music] and so that's my diameter and i'll cut that now so now it starts to develop the profile and first i'm just going to cut this straight [Music] what i'm going to do here is to cut some beads and that'll be the base of the outside [Music] so that's that i'm now going to do the bottom because if i've cut this in at an angle every bit i take off here means i'm going to have a narrower diameter so i don't need to take very much off the base that's the side you want to hear almost almost brittle that's nice and clean a little rebate in the bottom just for decoration [Music] now coming up the outside i'm going to use the 3 8 spindle gouge i'm going to use the the wing of the tool just to kind of stroke that and that just makes it round then this is going to come into the wood move the tool along the rest a little bit we come into the wood move the tool along the rest then drop the handle and roll the tool slightly clockwise up again same again might even do another one chances are that will go eventually now the second one in here there's a little bit of a i don't know what happened there but there's a little ridge on it halfway down so i'm going to go form the middle out and just open the tool up very slightly and just scrape the surface that looks okay now i'm not going to be able to get at the bottom again so this gets sanded now 180 grit should be enough i'm basically going to work everything i won't be able to get out later which is certainly the bottom two beads good chance i can't get to the next one either but basically i'll be holding in that in the bottom groove okay now got a 240 grit always hold it with the wall with the with the numbers and that way it stays folded now for the finish i've got a got a fair amount of already done a couple of bowls this morning so i've got a fair amount of boiled linseed in the rag already so that will be enough for that and i'll put some wax on top of it which is the the beeswax natural beeswax so i just get the two mixed in together right so that's got the the bottom of the outside done and when i get a chuck on so there's a vm 100 chuck that looks terribly close that's right i thought i got it too small for a second and because that's exactly the right size of the chuck the chuck shouldn't mark the wood at all but if it did um i can re-chuck it at a later stage anyway now to get the overall shape of the um the side i like to kind of bring the bring the sides in a little bit here it just they just um just seems to look a little bit better than having them dead straight and i like to get a bit of a curve to it as well kind of quite architectural forms of medieval castle type things running through my mind so i'm just going to cut the curve again using the half inch spindle gouge again i could do that with the 3 8 bowl gouge the problem the problem with the bowl gouge is that i can't get the corner the nose right into the corner as i can with the spindle gouge which is why i prefer the spindle gouge here we've got the bevel riding i'm going to go into the bottom of the first bead right on its side and then just tweak the tool back and just gently brush the top the top b is just looking a bit big at the moment so it's going to become a cove and yes we might get away with that it'll probably sand a bit flatter anyway so just leave that for the moment come back and do it later if i want to coming across the top we're going to use the wing of the tool uh tools on its side to start with just squeeze in just flatten off the bottom if you do that with the tool flute up to guaranteed catch because the weight of the wood will be on an unsupported edge of space under here and it'll just well you're hanging on to it if you're doing that kind of thing and the wood will go over your shoulder unless you're standing in the way in which case it'll catch you in the face [Music] [Applause] right so next is to drill a depth hole it's a little bit kind of wobbly there for some reason so i've just made a kind of starting cone for that now my depth through with a quarter inch drill and i'm going to go down so that um i need to be about a quarter of an inch shy of that mark i could put another mark on but i'll eyeball it needs to go down a bit oh yeah this is still a fairly new drill to me and i'm getting used to it ah i've got a mark just where i want it much better so hang on much firmer this time and push it in up to that mark we need to do it in little jabs because the end gets extremely hot and you don't want that to interact with your fingers or the ends of your fingers because they've got nerves on okay so inside of this now i've got the depth established i'm going to use the 3 8 spindle yards just want to get the tail stock out of the way 3 8 bowl gouge rather and with this you should have the inside out the bulk of it out in half a dozen cuts at the most [Music] [Music] [Music] so i put that down to lack of practice what happened was that the the tool wasn't right on its side uh i could see a bit of the flute and so the um as i came in the the rim in a rim in a lip of the the end of the hole just caught the left wing and that's what caused it to run back a bit not a big disaster really so this is um my dust hood getting in the way a bit that's why i've got a hinge on it so with a fairly steep nose on this gouge i want to go straight in so i'm lining this up with the way i want to go which is in and once i'm in there then i can rotate it slightly handy clockwise to get a better shaving right so that's really got the bulk of it out i can go back a little bit more and the rest i do with uh with a square end scraper which is a three-quarter inch i need to get the light down a bit i hope isn't going to be in the way of the camera [Applause] [Music] so not trying to use the whole lot only about a third of the edge at one time and you watch what's happening over at about four o'clock just over the other side i'm holding the tool back so you can see what's happening inside but usually i'm i've got uh i hold the tool much nearer the ferrule so the the handle is under my forearm and that means that i can still see what's happening but i've got much more control of the tool i'm trying to take too much at one go there so just ease it over slightly use the tools towards center and take less of a cut and then i can feel just drag the tool back feel where the step is and then carry on with the rest of the cut let's see how we're going for depth and so on now that's some down to about the top of the of that bead of this of the third bead in fact so which means that the bottom is still about half an inch thick so it doesn't need to be like that now coming down the inside here you can always try with the with the square end scraper but no matter how smoothly evenly you go the chances are it's going to tear and that's what's happened here with this end grain so i'm going to go down a little bit further in the bottom first and then cut the side with uh with a spindle gouge with a 3 8 spindle gouge so first is to go down um just check that again this time with the uh with the uh scraper so i'm down a little bit further than i thought um i'm near the top of the second bead so you might just get some a reference here so these are the rear earth magnets so i can go down to at least there anyway so now i've got about an eighth of an inch to play with so i'll just open that up and down across the middle across the middle where there's that and just mark it so you can see see better um there's the center so to go from there don't try and get the edge right right on the point because right on center because you just you won't do it other than by luck so you come up from underneath and then move across [Music] right next is to get down the side now you don't want these boxes too thin in the wall um this is face work i don't think i mentioned that before this is face work so the whole thing is going to move in and out with with seasonal changes in humidity so it can be a loose lidded box and the thicker this is i find the less it's inclined to move or it doesn't seem to move so far with the season so and come in here now cutting really going to get the this this is the 3 8 spindle guard right on its side and get it into the wood if you're a bit unhappy doing that then you can use the corner for the tool just to get started and then you've got somewhere to ride the bevel tools on its side and you roll the tool slightly together shaving and then away you go down to the bottom [Music] so i want to get fairly well over the gouge here over the handle and you can't see what's happening inside because there's too many shavings in the way so you just have to go on down to the bottom and that will give you generally a pretty good clean cut which it has here and there'll be no need for 60 grit or anything like that um the big hazard is when you're near the bottom is just going too far and ending up with a big kind of pastry cutter although i never actually done that but it always seems to be all seen it done but it always seems to be a possibility now coming into the corner here this gouge just needs to be skewed slightly more so in this situation it's already about 89 degrees up in the corner and just a slight curve it's going to have a bit more of a curve so all i've done is just uh swung the handle around so that's just slightly more uh slightly more radiused and and angled skewed so i can get into the corner with the tool and see where i am and again i'm watching what's happening over down at about five o'clock once that angle richard as you're right down in the bottom of the bowl what's the angle of your tool then do you mean tilt it down it just needs to be less than 90 degrees so when you're on a flat surface that angle in there needs to be less than it's rather like let me get the half box um so if we were here and uh we're going to look at it this way so if if when you look at it here when you're there it's going to be safe but if you're up up at that angle um that and that means the the woods are going to grab the edge and the edge is going to want to go through the surface i'm sure if that's a very good angle or not does that show yep no i was thinking of you personally yeah yeah okay otherwise i normally do it with the with the hand here so if you can yep so if you have the tool sticking up like that it's gonna and the wood's coming down it's gonna grab but so you always want the angle between the top of the tool and the surface you're cutting less than 90 degrees and that's what the negative rake tools are designed to do you can still catch a negative rate tool but it's it's uh it's designed to prevent that happening the downsides i think in in this kind of thing with a negative rake tool is that it's like using a skew chisel into the corner the two sides keep the point from getting right into the corner whereas with this one i think you're much better off right so that's done on the inside that's good and i now need to just true up the rim because i've still got the remnants of that catch i usually do this with the just to the right of the nose with the um 3 8 deep fluted bowl gouge and hands on the wrist and i'm just going to push it forward with my fingers and i want to tilt it in very slightly so it sits better with the um with the base i just need to make sure i've got plenty of lid to go over and now i can sand that now on the inside because i've been dealing with um you've got the cross the the end grain i think it's cut cleanly enough that i might be able to get away with the 180 grit have a quick look but i would expect to use 120 in here ah no that's good enough to sand with 180 right sanding the inner rim there because otherwise when i go in i might just cut myself reaching in the bottom across the bottom it's pretty pretty clean so ah and i've got to address the outside uh forgotten about that i think i'll just uh eliminate the um just get some more light over it just going to eliminate this little groove thing at the bottom here i'm not quite sure i might just have a curve at the bottom here [Music] i'm in severe danger of having neither one thing or the other at this rate i'm going to use the the bowl gouge because when i come around to the corner it's going to give me just straight off the nose that'll give me something oh i thought i could live with it but i can't so that's got a bit of a lump there i'm setting myself up little problems here get rid of that lump i'd really like to keep this as a bead in here so [Music] just parking the tool in very gently i've got my finger underneath the rest tools against my thumb these fingers are pulling the tool in really tight down onto the rest and just pivot the tool through an arc [Music] just brush the top gouge that looks a little bit better it's it's kind of flat that top of the um that bead beads don't have to be round so that's right on its side right i've got a little bit of a lump there which i can get rid of with the square end scraper i've just been using on the inside just a three-quarter wreath just go very gently i don't like to associate the skew chisel with anything to do with face work but in this situation if i want to get just underneath that little [Music] into that corner there just defines the whole area better and it means that the top of the bead i can just roll the tool very slightly anti-clockwise and i don't know if you see there's just a teeny little shaving on the edge there that'll be just gives me a bit more definition in the corner so we're now back to the 180 grit all right right when the paper gets um not really cutting uh i'd like to feel the the the wood kind of trying to drag at the abrasive and when it starts to skid over the surface uh probably time to replace it don't always put the speed down first uh kind of 20 years of my like almost 25 years of my turning career i didn't have variable speed so i certainly wasn't going to put the speed down when you have to change belts to sand but if you've got variable speed uh it's often you get a slightly you get a slightly better kind of grip if you like sanding slower but it's not essential and across the bottom it's going to skid around all over the place but it's quite difficult to get in there and hold it firm that will do that and so i've got the oily rag i'll get some wax on foot it'll all mix in with the oil i need all that [Music] now noise point if i don't like the outside or if the beads have been um [Music] the chucks mark the wood i can make a jam chuck and just fit the uh or even put this over over another chuck and just turn the bottom off so i can grip it from the inside basically what i'm saying right that's it [Music] but there's no mark on the jaws so that's it so and i have the box and it's very elegantly lit um so i can now that's where i want to be so next thing is to get a chuck oh dear did you i'm getting old [Applause] so uh this is the bm190 with one of the 35 mil jaws i think something like that where we right so now we've got the lid just another little look so the idea now is to uh we get this into the chuck and turn the inside so and if you're going to know how much to hollow inside or wait essential to know the boundaries uh within which you can hollow so first thing is to true up the face and do with the half inch spindle gouge and we measure the diameter of the the chuck so this is always an in-fitting lid because this um the grain's running this way and this will move in and out over time with the seasons and so all that so you want a fairly you want a loose lid so if you put the lid on when the grain's lined up um it'll fit properly and when they've the lid and the base have moved when you twist the lid um it'll it'll lock which people who aren't turners think it's very clever turners think it's a defect [Music] anyway for that where it fits and so that's going to be a little tenon all i need is enough to stop the lid rattling around so this is using the the wing the left wing of the uh single gauge quite quite tough and then i'm going to cut a little chamfer that way not a dovetail because it's a dovetail i've got it too loose and i'm going to lose the whole of the flange anyway so just do that [Music] needs to be slightly more this is when you practice your entry cuts for feet and things like that and that's a little bit more right so that doesn't fit right on but i've established the diameter which does fit so that's that so now the inside comes out and i don't want a particularly thin lid here i've got a heap of material to play with for shaping later might be a shade narrower than i was anticipating initially but that's dictated really by the bark which had to come off on the base [Music] so that was down to the bottom of the drill the chuck hole the tools right on the side you've seen all that now around the inside uh i'm going to use use my scraper again the bowl scraper that should get round that curve all right yep i don't need all this rest so get a slightly smaller one shorter one the vibration i'm getting is as much as probably because i haven't i've got a i'm gripping on a fairly small diameter for the size of the block there's quite a bit of weight out from the uh from where it's gripping so now i need something to expand the chuck jaws into for when i'm shaping the outside and the best tool for that generally is the little skewed scraper and can i see it i have no idea where it got oh there it is right so um that's gonna ease no that's the point is gonna get in the way so i'll just do this with a skew so this is a a half inch screw chisel i'm going to bring the rest up just to shade now all i need is a really a good groove or two just for the jaws to slide into so the idea is to try to make these look decorative um so people look inside and say oh that's a nice little detail but so they don't realize the real point of them is to provide somewhere for the chuck to expand so that's what that's going to get now the inside and also while i'm at it just mark the inside i'm going to waste an awful lot of wood here just right so marking the out the exact depth you don't go making allowances for it so it's um and i'm just going to fade that line out so i know that is the point i need to know about that's where the inside is i'm now sandy inside because i'm not going to get back to that make sure that 180 grit is enough which it is i haven't got the black line in the middle yet trying to get into those little corners a bit all i need inside is just something to stop the jaws sliding out oh i've forgotten i need to fit the um fit the lid to get that better [Music] so i know at the moment that just it fits on about halfway up that slope so if i just cut it in uh pretty well straight uh i think that'll be right so hand gripping the tool really well on the rest tools right on its side as going to raise the handle to drop the edge through an arc into the wood right on its side at the end of that cut it looks nice and shiny so it won't need sanding and if i can hold the lid hold the box up there and spin the base or spin the lid that's probably just about right now on this slope i've got two options when i'm making this i want it undercut so that when we're looking at the half box um i want the it's like a little eve on a house i want it coming down over the wall so that when you look at the box from the side when it has warped you won't see the join or you won't see the gap where it's walked so that's the purpose for doing that slightly undercut and i've got two options for that since i've got the gouge i can come in from here right on its side at the end of that cut or i can use the skewed scraper just getting dust off and i'm going to be taking a lot of that outside bit off anyway so that'll be fine right back to the sanding probably don't even need that much going into the base no point in taking up valuable storage space so ah i've picked up the shallow gauge and already use the deep floated for this but does the same kind of thing just swinging the edge across trying not to put any pressure on the um against the let's get a wood of check that that still fits and i haven't overdone it just a shade tight if anything so seen a bit more another way of doing it again would be with the uh with the skew and in this time rather than come in like that as a scraper i'm going to use the bevel side and just drop the handle slightly and you get that very fine powder coming off you've got a lot more control just by dropping the handle than moving the tool forwards yup that's fine and that's still smooth enough it's a shame to scratch it with 180s and so on to the 320 which is the blue beeswax now the oily rag is still pretty soggy there don't know where that vibration's coming from and ever it was is gone right so now i have this supremely elegant box here with and the main thing i want to know is well i'll just take it down a bit for a start i'm going to take it down to like to project the the line i've got and the side through to the top but uh we'll just do a little more basic wrapping first so these jaws will expand inside there now the inside of the top is where the the mark stops there so first thing i'm just going to do is thin down this block half inch spindle gouge again [Music] do a smaller knob [Music] now this you can play around for hours just kind of getting it looking better and worse so what i want to know now is i want to keep track for the moment of where we'll look at it from the uh i'm quite sure where you look at best from probably from the end of the lathe so i want to project this line up to the lid so i'm going to mark that up there and i want the the diameter of the lid less than the the base so i can bring that in to about there so this goes back on the chuck [Applause] and just feel where it sits and then just tighten it up gently just enough to hang on to it so that's going to be the diameter and that is the projection of the the line of the of the uh the base coming up through the through the lid still with a half inch spindle down [Music] i'm just going to cut straight in here [Music] that's that and i've got a little bit too much up here i'm going to round this anyway so [Music] so now i'm going to see and you can see the thing beginning to take shape the little knot i was worried about earlier on uh is now out on the rim so that would be just a little bit of decoration um this could be a wee bit smaller in diameter so i can that line doesn't quite match up with it um otherwise the overall proportions aren't looking too bad i've got heaps of wood up in there so i'm going to flatten the dome a bit and my uh let's see how we go here that's just beginning to feel a shade blunt blunt isn't quite the right word it's not cutting quite as well as it could do so if you think that just go straight to the grinder [Applause] it just doesn't take long you just do a quick um [Music] just a quick retouch and you probably hear the difference definitely right this needs to be down a little bit in diameter this dome now i'm going to start thinking about the knob [Music] so we'll see how that looks on the base all right so it's getting to look uh going to look much better and i've now got to decide do i want a line which comes up from the side into a dome or i can take that away and have a kind of pavilion look to it there's enough wood there i'll probably lose quite a bit of this knob on the top and i've got all kinds of other options for the of the lid too in the way of shapes and so on right we just had to change the memory card and we can't remember where we were anyway we'll just have another look at the the lid um right here so yes i was going to be having a dome uh whatever we'll just stick with the dome and go with what we are but uh main idea is to give you the idea of what you can do in these with these things so this will now come around so ash much better really to scrape it getting in there with the guard didn't isn't that easy because this is face work you'd be wanting to take the cuts from the smaller to the larger diameter [Music] now coming around the corner here i'm going to use the little square end [Music] three-quarter inch square into the corner [Music] the knob is really looking quite intrusive at the moment it needs scaling down 3 8 spindle guards i'm just in there just think about a little kind of beady or something in there and i'll reduce the height too [Music] so all the time when you're cutting it you think oh will i keep that or won't i [Music] almost over did it i think that time i'm going to take away that little bee [Music] and because because i took off too much first time i'm not going to reduce the the dome here [Music] and that skewed straight will allow me to get right into the corner [Music] now i can drop the rest a bit more and bring the tool up on its side this shear scrape has this curved side so that you can slide easily along the rest and this is a hardened rest anyway so there's a robust hardened dress the bic mark comes with one as well i just have to pick the robust out of the drawer now that because i've got a corner thing no i can't quite get into get into the corner with that tool so back to the square [Music] and to get in on to the top of that little bead just as i did on the base i'm going to use the skew on its side as a scraper and just rolling the tool very slightly left i can use the beveled side just to clean up the top of that bead now coming round in this area you can generally get a very clean cut sheer scraping that and there are two ways of doing that one is with the bowl gouge um you know it's not the bowl guard rather there's a the half inch spindle gouge i'm just moving the rest out so i've got somewhere to rest my hand and i'm going to squeeze the edge in so the curve uh the cove i get is going to come straight off that edge and if you did this without a strong brick you probably have a pretty dramatic catch so that's just squeezing the tool around taking the dust off the wing there another way of doing it probably safer way of doing it is with um [Music] i'm going to use the the the bowl scraper with which i've used on the inside of the lid this is a wider tool again so i've dropped the rest a bit further and i'm going to use the lower wing here the tools right up on its side [Music] i'm just taking off dust i do that with a [Music] round nose it's this this one this is a three quarter inch same kind of thing hands planted on the wrist squeeze the tool in that's actually better the best tool for the job here let's do that again to see where the dust is coming off now that's meant that i've lost that nice little bit of detail i had at the top of the bead so come in with a skew [Music] and that's almost it and just have another look and see how that looks on the base so that's uh looking reasonably good i can i'd quite like to flatten that just a little bit i think it'll look better slightly out of whack so or just in that situation just it's probably me not holding it in firmly enough still slightly out of whack right you can live with these things um i'll just use the square and screw when i went i'll use the i use the square end screen but i've just got to move so far to bring that tool around so it's much that's energetic on my part if i've got the skew excluded so i want to get that lump away [Music] now for the last little bit i can use the square end so i've just messed up the the cove there inadvertently so back with the small skew [Music] and that of course has meant that little hole in that that bit is wide and i really want to come back to the round nose and shear scrape there the other thing i'd forgotten to do was just to shampoo this rim here i have to pick up the half inch spindle gouge now across the top uh it is out of whack so i'm going to have to re-cut that it's not very much but just enough to be irritating i really have to do that because i'm i haven't yet done the very top of the of the knob so i tend to put a little kind of button on on the top here and this is made by just pushing the handle away and rolling the tool over so [Music] and the tools on its side bevel rubs and i take a little haircut in from the rim from the side stroke that with the left wing of the tool right it's all sandable so the great thing about this particular project is once you've grasped the steps you can make all kinds of different shapes uh i think it's a good idea to make sit out to make three more or less the same and then compare compare the three when they're finished and see which one you prefer and why and then you can sort it that out you then go to make another one and where you start to refine your own personal style that you'll develop whether you wanted to or not it just happens should be all right the rest of the wood's been working fairly well so that's picked up that bit of grain so i can either first just try shear scraping that and i'm going to use to tone the edge up so use a fairly coarse honey so this is a diamond tone can i do it there so what i'm doing is bringing the bevel heel onto the uh under the stone let's get this noise out of the way so i'm bringing the bevel heel here onto the onto the stone and then just trying to keep keep the whole thing flat against the bevel with the bevel slightly hollow so it's on the ends of the bevel and that should just give me a little burr on top which will just cut a little bit better so i'm trying to get rid of that little bit of torn not particularly well cut grain nothing 120 grit won't take care of let's see what happens it doesn't 120 grit it's going to be [Music] i've done a reasonable job but this is quicker and easier right back to the 180 the yellow i've got still probably got enough wood up in this part of the lid if i wanted to change the shape again i could do so so so right so that's okay just on that kind of thing um so happens i did a box as a demo the other day and uh because it was a demonstration i wasn't sanding the inside so i need to sand this again and in order to be able to do that i left this little ridge on the outside so a chuck will grab that which will allow me to finish the inside then jaws will expand inside that and i'm really doing the same thing as here only um that extra ridge will go eventually i don't think it's particularly desirable as a design feature but it's there purely so that i can sand the inside a bit later so that now gets polished finished the beeswax and the oily part it could probably do with another squirt of oil [Music] and with something like this this finish will provide a good base for ongoing polishing and the problem is if you seal a bit of wood then nothing else goes into it it never really develops a really nice patina whereas with this if you polish it regularly the rule of thumb is kind of every day for a week and then every uh once a month for a year and then kind of every month thereafter but you'll find if you polish this even once a week with furniture polish for um it's a bit wet so i'm going to do this polish it once a week for six or seven months it'll look like a an old antique it'll have a lovely patina on it so that is that one got a nice useful little pot

Channel: Richard Raffan

Views: 9,753

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Id: WH7jFKpnHGo

Length: 74min 31sec (4471 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 21 2022