Woodcut Bowlsaver Bowl Coring System - Demonstration

hi everyone we're back here in the Axminster Skills Center today we're going to be looking at the wood cut bowl saver I want to take you through the process of getting a blank from rough section log section like this through to setting the bowl saver up and starting to take out your bowls from the center of your blanks there's a couple of bowl savers on the market now so the wood cut to the max 3 and the standard to be honest this is a 14 inch bowl blank is a bit of monkey puzzle so quite a hard tough timber but it's only 14 inches so we're gonna go with the standard bowl saver we're not gonna skip through any of the details we will take out some of the drudgery the the rough in the bowl down but when it comes to set up you're gonna see everything even if we make the old mistake here and there we're gonna learn together set everything up and make I think probably a nest of three bowls out of this the Timbers semi-wet so it's been down a few months but obviously a bowl blank of this so it's not going to dry that much so that's what we're starting and I'm guessing it's sort of similar starting point the most of you are going to be starting with there are a few things to go through obviously safety on the lathe we're going to look at and we're gonna look at what makes these two bowl savers different as well and the templates so you get in the in the kit to make life easier when it comes to setting up so stick with us we're about to start roughing down and start nesting our bowls okay so we're gonna rough down our bowl blank like we've already said this is a piece of monkey puzzle so it's quite a tough timber there's none of those knots none of those branch entry areas that's a characteristic - monkey puzzle so it's gonna be a fairly smooth timber I'm hoping it's semi dry so it's not completely green it's it hasn't been fully seasoned so we're in about halfway position at the moment to be honest a big lump like this we're never going to fully seize and then keep it in one piece so this is this is really saving this piece of timber by by hollowing it now I'm going to put my PPE on in a moment that includes a dust visor so protect me from the dust and a shield to protect my face in case of anything flying off the machine but also we've generating a lot of noise here so I'm going to wear my ear protection as well in terms of the lave this is the eighty four oh six trade machine it's got a two horsepower motor and ask quite important for the coring part of the exercise we need something with a good amount of power there but I've also put the belt setting down to its lowest talk so that means it's gonna deliver more power to the machine just like gears on a boys school we're going down to first gear so give it a good give us a little bit more strength there behind the machine we're gonna rough the outside of the bowl to our rough bowl shape and then create a hundred mill foot on the bottom and for that one I'm gonna use the evolution SK one one four Chuck with type G gripper jaws so they've got a good strong grip as well okay so I think we're about to start so I'm gonna get my my PPE on nice half-inch Bowl gouge there's a 12 mil bowl gouge and at the moment I don't know what speed I'm gonna start at zero and slowly wind it up suspect I'll probably get to about three or four hundred or take a few cuts off when it's nice and even then I can get the speed up a little bit faster okay I think we're ready to start so here goes [Music] okay so there we've roughed the bowl blank down what we need to do now is create a foot that we can hold it in our type G gripper jaws now I've measured the jaws so I've opened the jaws there's a small gap between them around about six mil gap between the jaws have measured them they're about 90 mil on the internal diameter so that's the size we're going to create for our foot here I've set the calipers as you can see though at the moment there's a long way to go so we'll start roughing bit about away once we've done the foot we can start shaping the actual outside of the bowl okay so back with the the PPE [Music] okay so there we are we've roughed the the the shape of the bowl down there are a few tears that's not important at this stage this is a rough torn piece so it has to happen once we've done the inside we're gonna leave extra thick the bowl can then dry much quicker than it would do in a solid form once it's dried fully we can then remount the bore of the bowl and tidy both the inside surface get down to final thickness and tidy the inside as well and the foots also been sized I've sized that to the 90 mil we spoke about earlier so pretty much all that's left to do now is take the tailstock away clean up the point where the tailstock centre was and then we can dismount this and get it in our chuck ready for coring okay so we've rushed down we've created off foot what we need to do now is start our thinking about setting up the bowl saver itself so at the moment we've got the bowl on a face plate so we're going to take the bowl off the lathe so just engage the spindle lock I've got a spanner here just to make things a bit easier I've used a smaller face plate here only because I want to get a few bowls out of this one and if I use a really big face plate then the screw holes could potentially be in the way so I've just doubled up on the screws slightly longer ones than normal just to give me a few more options later on okay so before we do anything like that with the bowl we're just gonna pop that down to one side I'm gonna use a center this is a tell stock center I know that but all I'm gonna use it for at the moment is to give meself a center height to set up the bowl saver so it's all rest can come out okay so we're using the standard bowls over here so we've got to set this collar to allow this cutter head to be on center height so what we're going to do pop it in there just for the moment pinch it up with the spindle lock on the saddle and now just adjust up a little bit there we are that's okay there so that's that pinched up but we want to adjust the collar now so we're going to adjust the color so that sits down on the shoulder of our saddle and then we don't have to move it anymore there we go that drops down lock him in position now every time we come back to that machine that's already set the center height you're good to go so that could just come out just for the moment and come away okay so now we're going to mount the Chuck and we can put the bowl back on the lathe and get everything to set up ready for actually hollowing or for coring the bowls out so there's the Chuck like I say we've got 90 mil diameter in there we can now bring the bowl to the chuck you can bring the bowl to the chuck and then both to the lathe if you wish it's just my preference make sure everything's seated nicely before you tighten right up just make sure that nothing really Bad's gone wrong then get a couple of hands on your Chuck no Chuck key give it a proper proper tighten up the jaws in the or the center of these jewels there a gripper section so they're designed to physically buy in so these are going to give a nice maximum amount of grip there before we saw Halloween now I'm just gonna clean up that surface again it's an optional you don't have to do it's just wood I prefer to do so we're gonna clean that surface up then we're going to mount the ball core up get him set and just before we do that though I just wanted to talk a little bit about the sharpening so these are the individual blades for the bowl saver there are a steroid tip to the blades and all I tend to use is a little diamond sharpening card very fairly carefully you're just gonna sharpen the front of that one just a couple of passes the idea is that we keep the tip sharp rather than sharpen it once it goes blunt so a couple of passes every time you make a cut that should be enough to keep it nice and sharp and ready to to work for you so back with the PPE on we're just going to skim the surface the reason I'm keeping the tailstock there is that's important for holding the bowl core in a moment we need that as part of the whole mechanism so that's will stay there so let's start let's just clean that surface up [Music] [Music] okay so we've got the bowl prepared now one thing that we didn't talk about earlier is and I've just done this because my own experience is we've created a dovetail recess so each time we call out a bowl we can easily quite quickly flip that over back on the chuck tidy the back of the the new bowl up create that foot again and then get it straight back in the truck ready to go if you don't do that then it means screw it back on to the face playing going through that whole process again it's just I just find that easier and a little bit quicker really so now we can start thinking about setting up the bole kaura so the tool rest needs to come away remember we've previously setup the height of the core itself that's already done so that needs to go in we're gonna line up the face of the core up with the bowl and also now start thinking about the depth or thickness of Bowl that you want to create to start with wood cuts apply templates with all of the coring systems with the big max three you get three templates because you've got three blades so these come in paper form you then put them on to a hard back in MDF plywood something like that but hard back in to create of longer-lasting tablets and also with the standard one we're going to use you get the two because of the two blades as well at the moment we're using the biggest blade so that means the biggest template out of the pack and what that will do is give us a depth if we think about the actual curve cutter on our Bowl Cora that's going in a true arc around so this is set here it says the center of the bolts are the bolt here and this will give me the back side of the cut so this is gonna give us how far we can go in I want to leave about around about 25 to 30 mil of wall thickness and I'd like to have that fairly even throughout so I'm going to set that to the bolt so I need to come a fair ways in so they're the center of the bolts lining up and it's lining up with where I want the thickness or the back of the bowl to it to be and I've also now setting up this wall thickness here like I say is between 25 and 30 mil that will allow the bowl movement so once we come to read through the bowl there still be a solid material in there to get a nice round form I think we're ready to go so I'm going to make sure everything's tightened out we now need to bring the tail stock closed so the tail stock needs to support the back of the bole kaura here so that slot straight in the reason there's movement here is to accommodate the movement that we've just given the bowl saver in terms of wall thickness so now that set we can lock everything down there's a number of things you'll need to lock up so make sure your tail stops locked in position your adjustment screw down here is nice and tight everything in terms of the tool rest is tight including the spindle lock there everything is nice and firm and ready to go we've got good clearance nothing touching the bole kaura before we start okay everything set up I'm double-checking all the locking levers making sure everything is nice and tight the speed we're gonna be running at really a maximum of 600 revs for this sort of thing I'm gonna start off fairly slow though around about 400 and then increase it as I get close to the center we have to think at the moment we're cutting side grain loves to be cut no problem at all once we turn the corner at the bottom we're then hitting an grain again also surface speed is going to slow down so I want to up my speed to a maximum of 600 revs and you have to gauge that determining determined on the timber you're using this is fairly dry again is gonna be a little bit more abrasive okay so we're about to start you have to be aware once you make contact to start with it can be fairly aggressive so just hold onto that handle make sure your fully supported and you got ear protection and your dust visor on as well so here goes [Applause] you you okay so there's our first bowl out you might want to reshape the inside with a bowl gouge just to make it nice and even it's a little bit of difference there but that's as nice deep Bowl we got their depth I wanted we're now gonna go to number two so don't forget already we've put that dovetail recess in there so all we have to do now is keep the Chuck on the lathe and expand into the recess I'm going to use the same Chuck it might sound like a big surface or big foot but that foot can be taken off later it's not a big deal so there we are if I just shape the foot we'll remount that in the Chuck and then we're gonna go to the smaller blade now on the wood cut on the the bole kaura to take out our third bowl okay so now we're working with the smaller blade so the smaller template is going to be used so I'm just gauging how deep I want this to go and we're about there so I can lock that to Westham position starts also thinking about the the amount of wall thickness we're gonna get so I'm gonna bring the cutter close so let's come a little bit further away okay so using the template we're just making a guide as to where that cutting edge is gonna come if you look at that cutting edge there you can see the wall thickness so there we are that's about the right place now I'm happy with this here we're gonna have less movement on a smaller Bowl and so like it's slightly slimmer on it some wall thickness now because we brought it a long way this way we're going to have to adjust this area now to meet up with our tailstock so let's just undo that and get him in line bring the tail stock up marry it all together line everything up tighten up the tail stop stop double-check all of our clamps and again we're good to go so there we are the woodcutter ha lowers we've got two sizes available there's the standard that we use today but if you're doing bowls over sort 14 inches in diameter then the match free would be the one for you a fairly hefty lays required over two horsepower this particular ones are two horsepower machine it's quite a versatile piece of kit as well and I hope today I've been able to show you a few little hints and tips about using it and just to demystify dur a little bit it's quite a worthwhile tool if you're doing lots of bowls obviously you're going to make far more money out of the timber that you're using and generate less waste as well there we are the wood cut coring system you

Channel: Axminster Tools

Views: 33,771

Rating: 4.9099097 out of 5

Keywords: power tools, woodworking, machinery, hand tools, workshop, woodturning, tool shop, tool store, diy, tradesman, axminster, tools, woodcut, bowlsaver, bowl coring system

Id: A5I05qYVSoc

Length: 19min 59sec (1199 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 16 2019