Make a $20 Bowl in 20 Minutes

today I'm going to talk about the process I use to make what I call my $20 bowls does the other follow me a lot and know that I learn work a lot of art markets and farmers markets to subsidize this channel and in those markets yes I have a lot of expensive stuff the 100 200 $300 bowls and containers and stuff like that but that isn't the kind of impulse buys most people are looking for when they go to these kinds of markets and some having something in this price range offers you a lot ability to sell stuff but to get into this price range there's one thing you need to take away your labor the materials free so if you don't have to spend too much time on these items you can make a little bit of money you're not gonna make a lot of money on this one but a lot of times it's enough to turn a bad market into a decent market where it makes up the cherry that you don't lose money having something that is an impulse buy it's just a necessity if you're going to do this and for even a part-time income so what I have right here are blanks that come from the off sides the quarter-sawn size when i section out a ball now this kind of material is prime wood and if I had a lot of storage space I would set this aside for 5 6 7 years to dry out but that's a long time personally I'm in a situation where I'd rather get the cash out of it so what I'm talking about are these are the some of the best pieces of wood and log you have the pic of the center and when you make Bowl blanks and stuff like that basically you cut out the pit because that's where all you crack stuff and then I will section that off and that gives me these sections right here which are prime wood for making vases or ingrain boxes or all that kind of stuff but if you want to just turn them into something these so you can sell quickly that's what I'm talking about here today in these $20 bowls now I make these kinds of balls when I have a situation where there's the efficiency of quantity I can do a small production run where certain steps are the same on all even though each Bowl is gonna be slightly different right now I've just finished out processing a tree I've roughed out all the other stuff and these are the stuffs I set aside that's already cracking everything but I can get these $20 items out of them and I would probably make able to make a dozen bowls out of this little pack or more depending on how bad the cracking is other times I do this kind of stuff is it when I'm pouring stuff I'm getting two three four bowls out of something I've always found that the center sections you know you can spend a lot of time making it really nice but when people see something the size of a cereal bowl they don't tend to spend a hundred bucks on that one that's something there's something to the mask quanti they pay for wood by the pound a lot of times that a bad analogy but that's what real life is like so in those kind of situations a lot of times I will take that Center for section which isn't the very big a set-aside and when I get about six of them I'll batch out a whole bunch of Bowl I'll spend maybe a morning doing that one and there we go onto the market let's sell them and move on so what's the first step in doing this we've got to make some squares now if you're gonna do any kind of production work on the lathe you're gonna find that bandsaw it's just a necessity it allows you to do so much work quickly gets all the roughing done pretty much all my wood turning starts out with a bandsaw because I feel it's a fairly safe way to get rid of the book what I have right here is just a standard Delta knockoff by jet of a 14-inch leg with the riser block and the distance makes it nice for me to do the very large bones the maximum size I can handle on this leg and whenever I get a new band saw or I set one up for our friend or something like that I will build them a crosscut sled and that sounds kind of weird for a bandsaw but it makes the kind of work I'm doing right now so much safer you don't have to kind of hold it and go across with the blade you can just let this sit right here you could even let go of it though I don't recommend that because all the forces going down it's fairly stable now what we're doing right now is we're taking all these flops that I have and I'm going to cut the end off to make sure that there's no cracking involved just cut about an inch off and then I will cut little squares out as much as I can stack them aside and when I get all these cut up into squares we'll move on but you don't want to cut up any more squares and you can handle the day your turning or the evening into the next morning because they will start to crack on you [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] now my crosscut stat sled has a stop that stops at the edge of the table so I won't go too far into my waste block and I can actually use my body to move it forward so my hands can control everything it's just nice and safe that way now I come over I check it take the offcuts slam it on the ground if it doesn't break apart you know you don't have any checks at the end if it does break apart cut another inch off throw it down until it doesn't break off just looking at the end it might look solid but there might be a microscopic fraction that you can't see from here what I typically would do is I would take the width of these pieces which are generally pretty consistent because I've been practicing with my chainsaw to do that thinking it through fine I dropped my finger over here and that's gonna be I square it off now it doesn't have to be a perfect square not really in fact if you go a little bit rectangle that's fine we're just doing this one to get it prepped to go on the way [Applause] [Music] [Music] there we go a net with about 20 Bowl blanks small bowl blanks you ready to rock and roll the next step is going to be just marking out the center's and drilling a hole ever so slightly smaller than the drive center I'm going to be using and I wanted to show you something this board looked totally cracked up totally worthless you'll see the really bad cracks but the cracks themselves only went in about two inches so this thing right here even though they look horrible couldn't return a few good bowls so don't be afraid about at least cutting into log to see how bad it actually is all of these are ready to rock and roll no cracks involved okay there we go I've got about twenty blanks I've took the time to find the center of all the blanks and Jordan 3/8 inch hole that will allow my driver spur to really bite into it but it will go in fairly easily and it won't come loose now I like using drive centers for this kind of work because I'm trying to save steps I'm trying to save time if I'm selling at this price point that's the key thing you don't want to spend much time on it and if I can set my Chuck up and not change it do all one step on all 20 bowls then change my tools it just saves a lot so far even dawdling around changing a bandsaw blade I have maybe 30 40 minutes involved in this project so far that's not too bad now don't feel too worried about using something like this as a drive spur because I see masters do big bowls off of one / like this now what I do do this I like to use the biggest jaws that will fit my piece of wood so I went in found the smallest piece of wood got these jobs in so they'll all sit right there you know give me a good stable platform I also like my one-way system I'm kind of partial to them because they make all these kind of drives birds live centers and stuff like that that will fit in the Chuck so once you put the stronghold Chuck on the leg very rarely do I ever take it off so here we go just let's lock this in install my blank and get to turn in okay my first goal is to get the rough outside shape of the of the pole and to add a tenon and since the drive screw is going to be the recess of the bolt this that's going to be the outside now there are a lot of people out there that would have cut this circle out on the bandsaw and when I'm doing large stuff large boats as exactly why I do but did this size I don't feel find a time-saving for doing that one also there's another thing all right a lot of people will when they first turn it they'll square it off round to make it easier to turn the shape another thing I haven't found that being a time saver now one of the key ways to saving time when you're turning is to sharpen often a cane edge will get you a better better cut you'll have to do last shaving you'll be less abusive to you but sharpening often doesn't mean you need to do stuff to dull your tools quickly and if you understand hole turning basically what in spindle turning a tree grows up straight you turn it on its side you spin it around your axis in Bowl turning we tend to turn that tree on its side and spin it like this so on every revolution you're cutting straight into end grain right here and right here and long grain right there end grain is incredibly hard it will dull your tools fast so if there's any way you can avoid cutting swinging the ingrain you're not gonna have to sharpen as often and you can do it will be a lot easier for you well so what I tend to do is I just skip the rounding part and I just go straight to shaping this isn't that big bowl max sighs we're gonna have a little six inch bolts most of them are going to be plus or minus five inches perfect for cereals dips and stuff like that so here we go awesome this sides I don't bring my tail stock in if you want to do that one you're perfectly fine I just find it saves me one step and this is pretty secure now the tool I'm going to be using for this roughing work is my I think they call it late master it's a three quarter inch Bowl ground gouge and I use more what they call an Irish Gong cried or my little different terms for it's nothing new it's just very swept back and this let allows me to do both the pull and they push push cut and because the wings are so swept back it exposes a lot more blade so I can take a bigger cut fewer passes less time and I'm not the fastest earner in the world but if I can speed myself up a little bit it means more money for me now I'm going to be doing what's called a pull Cup meaning I'm going to be using the side of the blade I'm gonna pull it in towards me exposes a lot of the blade and it does it works tender it tends to work quicker when you're just doing roughing passes this is not going to be a smooth cut but we're trying to remove once again we're trying to remove stuff quickly I know there are a lot of people that get into wood turning that you want to take the time you wanna make every cut your best cut that way over the course of a boat earning you get better and better and better and that last final cut is perfect we're not at that spot we just want to get it to shape and only concern yourself on the best cut on our last cut and the pull cut just seems to be doing a lot better now I'm going to go into a lot more discussion on grain direction when we get to that final cut but for now I want you to notice I'm going to be pulling from the center out and ineffective three-fourths of the time this will allow me to go with the grain so let me grab my face you up because when you're doing a pull cut all the shavings coming right at you and we'll get going okay one last point I am wearing gloves so all you safety police out there you know go ahead and leave your comments never use gloves around power tours but I can almost guarantee y'all have never turned green would at least very much because Greenwood has water in it we are generating friction with the cutting that generates sting right on your hand Shaggy's coming our sting you will burn yourself if you're doing a lot of work this way if you don't have some kind of protection and these are tight-fitting gloves even if they they're not gonna Royce snag I'm back here it's I understand the risk I would rather burn myself than satisfy safety police trolls on people that don't know what they're talking about so here we go come up spin it make sure it's okay I put it in low gear on my lathe because it's not very powerful lathe come over spin it up slowly spin it as fast as you feel comfortable the faster you spin it the more work you can get done the smoother cut you'll do and when you're turning so air like this it will actually be smoother operation and less abrasive for you I generally turn it fast enough so that my lathe doesn't dig starting at the corner and start roughing out your shape notice okay so I now got my rough shape of the bowl now what am I looking for in shapes let's go to the whiteboard I'm talking about that okay we aren't making artwork here this is crap we're just made of mass-producing some attractive looking bowls that are actually going to be used and a general design theory is if you have any kind of circle or you oval so if you have a perfect circle or a a kind of a oval or even an oval like that okay if you take any portion of that circle it should be a nice pleasing shape for a bull with a perfect circle if I cut it in half and then take off the bottom third for the foot I have a pleasing looking bull I do the same thing for a long flat oval I have a pleasing looking bull I'd be the same thing at any level on this and I have a pleasing looking shape so we're not doing the rough shape I'm actually picturing portions of a balloon the top portion not the part you tie the round portion of the balloon to get the shape I want for this rough ball and I'm not making the shape perfectly I'm just getting it roughed out right now getting it perfect at this point of stage is kind of a waste of time because you're going to have to go back and clean it up once you put it up put it on the tenon so ask yourself at this point in time how much time have we actually put into this bowl blank I mean drilling the holes all that kind of stuff that was about 30 45 minutes and this process right now if it's 2 minutes at the max I would be surprised taking those rough cuts maybe 6 passes to get the general shape cut in this size measure tenon square it off pull it out time to go grab the other 19 of these and just do the same exact thing get it to a bowl blank shape [Music] [Music] okay so there we go we've got 20 Bowl blanks no cracks on the outside most everything is some kind of a balloon shape I know it's tempting to add elope textures stuff like that but stick with the balloon shape because they'll allow you to get a very thin bowl all the way down it might be a tad bit thicker right here but not enough to make a difference if you start doing odd shapes or something like that the interior scoop is not gonna match the exterior and then you'll have a thicker spark part of the bowl than other parts and you might get crack because remember these are green bowls we're not wanting to spend time drying them returning them re-- sanding them all the other stuff we're just batching stuff out and if it warps it works no big deal now the next step is I'm going to change over my Chuck to the set up on this put smaller jaws on it and then we're going to start hollowing them out to me first we'll finish the shape on the outside if we're gonna do sanding will do sanding then and then we'll start hollowing it out it is a little after 5 o'clock now I want to say I started this right around 2 o'clock maybe 1:30 but I've had a lot of distractions today I've produced a video for Instagram one of my woodworking tips of the day hey check it out I try and do those at least once a day during the weekdays and I've answered a bunch of the emails and stuff like that I did time me for that Instagram video and it took me about two and a half minutes to go from loading it on the chuck to pulling it off so that tells you about how much time it would take you if you just got after it make an hour to do all of these so let's get to hollowing it out so the next step of the process is to finish shaping the outside of the bolt and this will be the last time we touch the outside until you add finish which for my particular person purpose is milk paint so this will make a little bit more of a mess okay I just finished a push cut to get my shape I generally like to do my shaping with a push cut but this was going against the grain and if you notice I've got a little bit Terra right there and right there and if you feel it the it looks deceptively smooth but if you feel I've got a little bit of a high spot right there so what I'm about to do is show you a skewed scraping cut and that I'm going to use this bottom wing right here of a freshly sharpened gouge and I'm going to break drop my handle so that it's gonna just scrape at an angle I'm gonna move the camera so you can see that so here's my bottom wing I'm going to drop my hand oh so it's like hit ever so slightly and I'm just gonna give it a light touch and this is the only time in this project that I'm really focusing on getting the best possible cut I can and if you notice I'm getting very thin shavings this is not sawdust in these shavings and the better I do here the less sanding I have to do if I have to sand it all my goal is that when I'm in when I'm done I'm not gonna have any lines no shadow line and looks like I'm going to have wine okay let's check it out let's see our finish I got some lines right there and that's probably some two lines but I don't seem to have any maybe a little bit error right there but I'm gonna let that slide I did one really good pass best cut I could do in that pass everything else I'm gonna let go so I will reach around I'll grab the 150 get random orbital sander pad and I think that's 150 grit I'm gonna be painting my fish outside so I'll reverse the direction normally when I'm working I'm not doing this camera I have a fan blowing behind me and blue all sawdust but I'm not going to do much sawdust in here I'm just taking off whatever nibs are left there in whatever lines shadows for my tool marks one direction reverse it go the other direction good enough oh and I don't think I mentioned it after that outside roughing work I generally will ships switched to a 3/8 inch gouge it's still the same Irish grind and that's what I'll use except for when I'm doing the very bottom of it and just lately I've been switching to what's called a traditional grind wrong one a traditional grind which is more straight across and this is more of a bottom-feeder and just does that one cut sometimes I like it sometimes I don't it just depends now it's time to hollow up interior and I'm going to be basically trying to do it in three steps the first step I'm going to come in from here I'm gonna make V cuts and that's gonna leave a pyramid in the middle from there I'm gonna get rid of the pyramid and then I will try to make one last pass following the outside curve maybe an eighth of an inch no more than a quarter of an inch on this size preferably down to eighth in the niche and just match the curve from the outside of the end so real quickly let's hollow out the interior and don't be afraid to really crack up the speed at this point it is a balanced way everything should be just fine so starting at the corner come down to a little bit more than my desired thickness with one stroke come back in about a half inch three quarters of an inch come back again this is Greenwood now this is also pecan which is known as concrete because it is so hard you'll get the idea okay now to get rid of that center section I don't know it turning off but you can see I've got these little pyramids right here and I'm about a quarter of an inch right now here but it starts to swell out the halfway down so all I want to do is get rid of these little pyramid there we go now I'm going to try in one pass to follow the outside now there is a trick to doing this and it's a head Bob if you put your finger out in front of you if you put your hand in front of it you can still know where your finger is and if you move your head you can see the finger going back and forth your finger you know where exactly where the tip is well you can do the same thing with a bowl and it's the same thing owls and all the analysts do why they move their head back and forth it's to focus on the tip so if I look at my tip I can see it here I could see where it is at some point it gets behind the wood if I just move my head back and forth I can kind of tell where it is in relation to the edge and I'm just trying to make it consistent right now so hopefully with one pass I can get the shape I want oh wait before I do that when I joined like to shape my rim I either do it as a concave going in or a concave going out I'll do a concave going in I'm going to use that lower wing right there just to get it to where I want it's just a very light touch drop the handle so it's nice and skewed I like it to be slightly rounded that way when people feel it kind of falls in okay there is about a lesson eighth of an inch if I come in I put my tooth in here and once secret is don't take a light cut take a good amount of cut something you can control easily if you take you like it a lot of cut then tool doesn't want by then it skipped on me I'll redo this okay take a nice bite [Music] okay let's see how we did now tell you a lot you'll see woodworkers put their fingers in all the time you can't really tell the difference between your fingers if you just touch them together but if you move you can tell if they're going apart or coming in so if I come in here I can tell I'm beginning to separate right about there on the ball about 3/4 way down so right at that spot right there I'm going to come back in and try make one more cut to finish it up I think my depth is just about okay so what I come in do is I run that bevel in I might come back a few times pick up the line make my cut see how I did much better transition now the last thing i cutting actually i do is i will pick up a scraper this is not to get a finish I'm actually pretty happy with that finish I don't see any tear out whatsoever I could put this right on that one but it's a shape issue people are going run their fingers on the inside and because I have such a short bevel so I can turn make the corner on this one there's a little bit of undulation that you can feel you can't really see it but you can feel it by using the largest scraper I have that curve right here tends to take away those undulations so it will feel a little bit nicer so I will make one pass with a scraper and call it done there we go notice I did not hit the sides with the scraper it was only the bottom because for some reason when I transition that bottom I get those undulations but it might just be me so here we go I have a nice smooth curve in here somewhat even thickness all the way through the lightly hit it with sandpaper 150 just to remove any high spots on tool marks on the inside I will go up to 220 reverse my speed break from my edges on the rim [Music] and there we go I am now done cutting on this board except for removing the tenon and this is the last step I can do with my lathe in this configuration so I will do all 20 of these the same way and then come back to you and I'm probably going to take a break right now so you'll see a different close when I come back in because I got prep for another art show so here we go this man so we can tonight and then we'll come back tomorrow oh and at this point in time as you finish them in stages throw them in a box and if you can't get to something right here throw them all into the box and finish them up the next day the box will kind of slow down the drying process it will prevent air from moving and any moisture that is scarce will kind of stay here it's not a great fix but it's an easy one [Music] [Music] okay now with the finishing of the last bowl it's time to reconfigure our lathe so that we can remove the tenon on the bottom now there are a lot of ways of doing that you could put those original chucks on for some tape on it so they won't Mar it up and just press it on if I'm doing one or two bowls or if I've done like those six bowls from coring and stuff like that just something that's how quickly I might use the tennis ball trick I've shown you all before where you just put the test ball in there you use a tail stock to squeeze it in and then you sand off the net but with 20 of these two going it makes sense for me to put on the Jumbo jaws and those will just make things a lot easier and for this mass-production thing so I'm gonna change off the jaws and I will show you how to remove the tenon now jumbo jaws operate off the principle that you can squeeze that your Chuck down and these edges which are little pyramids um hopefully you can see that in there well squeeze down on the rim this is another reason why I tend to go for these less than half of a hemisphere or a balloon designs cuz if you have it folding over down on the top the jaws will kind of pinch it out instep pinching it in now there is something know as you use these jaws you will start to get a little aluminum marks on the top just from sitting there or rotating around or rattling around or whatever and however they come out so if you're needing to protect this rim right here you might consider putting a ring of blue tape on that and you that blue tape wall should come up a little bit because sometimes you'll get these little rubber marks I am going to paint the outside which a lot of times has a paint coming over this lip so they'll after I paint it I just run this a draw on some sandpaper to remove it so I'm not too concerned with it another thing is notice you have quite a few of these little things having to reposition them for every single Bowl takes time and that's what we're trying to say so this might make some common sense pull out all your bowls and group them by outside diameter size that way you don't have to reset those plastic triangles up once per diameter before you chuck it up this is the last time you have to make any adjustments on thickness how deep the bowl is if you missed your thickness from down here and you know it's pretty thick you can actually eyeball it and make a pencil mark on how much of this bum section you want to remove I've got mine pretty close right now so I'm not going to make that mark and all I'm gonna do is remove the tenon and hollow it out a tad bit so chucking up just put it in between centers tighten up the Chuck and it'll stay now if you need to for comfort sake you're more than welcome to bring it till stock up and push it in right there warning don't push too hard especially if you've done the interior shape okay cuz you might not have that much pressure here and you could shove it in because you get a lot torque with that little sharpening wheel I'm not going to do that one because it saves me two steps I don't have to really move that Center burr that Center dimple and I don't have to pull this back and push it forward all the time and remember I'm trying to save time here and I trust that these dovetail little rubber washers and the fact that my bowls flare out ever so slightly will keep it locked in and that all my torque my pressure of is going into the wood it's not pulling out so my goal right now is to recess this center section to the point where it's just under this rim right here and then just smooth everything out so I will be using two cups one will be a push cut pulling in and I tend to go in a slight angle and the rest will be this scraping cut notice I've got a freshly sharpened gouge we do want to take very light touch of this stage you take a light cut but a quick touch serves the same purpose start in the center off the handle to raise it up and now you're making this skewed cut just keep your hi on the side so that you do not go past the base too far [Applause] after you're worried about thickness you can stop the lathe and kind of tap it if it doesn't feel solid you know you're getting kind of thin and using the back of my gouge I can can't check it to make sure it is somewhat Hollow there we go I like that I personally also like to put few grooves here and if you understand your bow its thinnest there it's a little thick there so you have a little bit of room you can use your gouge and it kind of just dresses up the bottom a little bit and if you sign your balls which I typically don't sign these cracked ones it gives you a spot to sign them in it with a little 220 to blend it in remove any kind of hair out or anything like that and you're done so I'm going to do the rest of these - the montage because they just take too much time to edit when we come back we'll put all the milk [Music] so there we go all the balls of the tenons off and we are ready for finishing and my finishing method I'll show you in a second is milk paint oil and a little bit of wax but I want to think about how much time we put into each Bowl so far it didn't take but maybe thirty Seconds to a minute to actually cut a square out on each one of them I showed you how I shape the outside and when I tie myself I think it was like two and a half three minutes or something like that for the Instagram video so let's say we've got five minutes in it total let's say it took me a whopping five minutes to hollow it out which is probably closer to three minutes so we're ten minutes there and fiddling around changing all the delays setting up the bandsaw per video let's add another five minutes to do that and take off the tent so we're up to 15 minutes which gives us five minutes to slap paint on it twice sand it between a pillow oil on it we're right on track for only putting in about 20 minutes per Bowl and I'm not the fastest earner anybody could do this so the next step I typically will spend a few seconds on each one of them as I I walk them from here to my finishing table and I will sand any rough spots because this was green wood and just sitting out in between stages sometimes you find a little bit of kind of fuzz pop up I'm not saving away tear out or anything that just kind of evening it out now I like using milk paint it's a very easy finished apply and you can store a lot of it of a bunch of different varieties I typically buy the stuff from the old-fashioned milk paint company and I bought a whole set years ago and then I just replenished what I use and I keep them in these masonry jars most of them have one of those plastic moisture absorbs are in there and I put a little spoon in each one so they don't get mixed up and basically all you do is I typically use a black base color and then I put another color on top of all the stuff I sell this time I'm going to try to mix it with a little snow-white to get more of a slavish gray color so 1 tablespoons really all you need and I have found that if I mix one of these little baby syringes of water with one tablespoon that's about perfect amount of water and because it's water-based this stuff will actually absorb into the top layer of the wood in addition to sitting on top of it so it just kind of really sticks really well but as it wears it looks better and better and better now you will have to apply multiple coats of this stuff for the simple reason it is water-based and it kind of doesn't go on like most people think latex stuff duck paint does but because of that it just wears incredibly well now because they require two coats or at least two coats I would typically put a base coat of a very dark color a standard color like this black see that's kind of like mustard and we want it just a little bit soupy on this first coat so that it will kind of absorb into the wood and on the top coat because this isn't translucent whatever color you put on it will be that color but anytime anytime they scrub on it we're on it this black will come through before the wood another thing I like is because milk paint mixes with water that's the color you will get it's not like another a lot of other plants where you apply it on it's one color and then after it dries it's another color this is the color you're going to get so if you mix two powders together before you put it on your wood you will get the color of an actual representation of the color so you mix it up let it sit for a minute or two and then we'll apply it and I'll show you a few tricks for applying it in a second now all these other colors I have found that the brighter colors with the exception of orange because i'm in austin texas longhorns they don't really sell that well having darker colors base colors earth tones seem to do best I might even lighten up this lexington green right here but I have a barn red a seafoam green you wouldn't think driftwood would be a really popular color but in a bowl people seem to buy that one that color a lot and these are all the standard colors from the old-fashioned milk paint company now when I mix up the colors I typically use these small Dixie Cups because I'm not mixing up much just enough to cover the cover to the outside of maybe two bowls at max so I will use about a half a teaspoon one these plastic Dixie spoons and as you can see that is why buying buying a pint of the powder will just last you forever and because I didn't use a full spoon I just use about half of this little syringe of water mix it up and let it sit and by the time I apply all the black paint this will be ready to rock and roll it also helps out to mix it with warm water now I'm using one of these cheap Harbor Freight blow brushes right here now the key thing to remember though is this is naked wood any paint that gets in here you're not going to get out because it's gonna blow up in the top layer take a lot of sanding geek to get it off and I don't really want to get any paint on this rim but the last step before I apply oil is to sand this rim to make it nice and crisp and we'll get to that one the idea is when I'm painting I put one hand underneath it did I just rotate it on this hand when I come to the edges I just brush off the side so I get the holes part when I'm done I'll actually store it on the face side and they'll dry as soon as the water evaporates off that's another reason why I really like milk paint the one thing you don't absolutely don't want to do is leave these little hair bristles in there just peel them out and then right before I'm done I will walk through and if there's any bubbles or anything like that I'll run the brush over them he'll pop them out they'll give me a nice smooth finish also it gives me the cool direction I'm looking for in my paint brushes makes it look like pottery now here's what's cool about milk paint by the time I finish the last one of these the first one's already dry so I just grab me one of these little foam sanding pads I give it a quick once-over to knock over the high spots oh yeah and I really like the fact that the grain the brush strokes just slightly show through now you got watch out for this powder you don't want to get into the pores on the inside so be careful with your other hand and then it's just a matter of applying another coat of paste of another color I'm using the barn red this time so I will paint this let it dry sand it boil it then maybe a day or two later I'll put some paste wax on the outside in the inside and so it that's all there is to it also because it's milk paint water-based I just wrench this brush out with water in the sink between colors here's one make sure you get all the pigmen out because they will mix with your next color but reuse the same 50-cent brush for the whole batch now we're at my favorite part oiling them all up and when you do all them I suggest you do all the interior the bowls first that way you won't risk contaminating the interiors with any sawdust or excess pigment that's on the outside of the bowl and when you do the outsides I suggest on the very first time that you kind of only use a pink one paper towel per color I've got six different colors here so obviously I'll use six different paper towels after the first oiling or Schleck or whatever you want to put on it the color is pretty much set so you don't have to worry about it after that I boil these and in a few days I will throw on some paste wax some beeswax oil mixture buff that out to a high shine and put them on the mark and sell them and most of these are going to be in the $20 range as I said in the title but you know just good impulse buys and the colors really do bring the crowds in well I hope you enjoyed this video maybe you'll learn something if nothing more how to speed yourself up you could do this project like I do it for farmers markets artist markets or you know in one weekend you could pretty much make everything for your entire Christmas get good lists and not spend too much money but something to think about and if you did enjoy this video please like favorite subscribe do all of those social medias tell your friends and visit our website Worth effort com I run I write blog post and I have an online store where we sell lots of swag t-shirts posters hats and a lot of the more expensive art work I do a we will post there and all those selves help subsidize this channel and I want you to remember one last thing besides look at how pretty this milk bank turns out when you oil it man that is nice but I want you remember it's always worth the effort to learn create and share with others y'all be safe and have fun you

Channel: wortheffort

Views: 969,000

Rating: 4.8669066 out of 5

Keywords: wortheffort, worth the effort, woodworking, wood turning, woodturning, shaker, milk paint, bowl, bowl turning, gouge, milkpaint, turning, hand tool, handtool, lathe, wood

Id: hwu0R5a1QGc

Length: 51min 52sec (3112 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 03 2017