Was live: Building a Voron 2.4! (Part 1: Parts used, frame assembly)

[Music] so [Music] this livestream series is sponsored by slice engineering and the mosquito magnum plus hotend push absurd amounts of filament while maintaining the structural integrity of the mosquito design the mosquito magnum plus can be configured with up to 100 watts of heating power redundant 500 degrees celsius rated thermistors and air or water cooling i'll be using the magnum plus for this build and you can find the links in the description below also thank you to dua 3d and the waron printed forward team for providing high quality parts for this build i've purchased the rest of the parts on the regular like the formbot kit upgrades from firmware labs and little bits here and there you can find links for everything in the description below now let's get started with the build welcome everyone to this voron 2.4 build let me all fill in on what we are doing here we're building a printer it's been a while that i've actually built a printer from scratch and not just assembled well yet another in the three out of the box but today this is is this actually live i don't know what these questions are yes that intro was recorded but this is live obviously um we're gonna assemble it from a kit because sourcing of warrant is quite a task um it's gonna be warren 2.4 which is a core xy um well i guess core xy that moves along the z-axis as well it's got a static bed we're going to be doing the 300 by well it's been 300 less 300 by 300 by 300 millimeter cubed build volume and yeah it's gonna be a uh probably quite an involved build so for all of you hoping that this might be a uh you watch this one video this one stream and we're gonna have a working printer sorry to disappoint you i'm i was informed that um this would be a 25 plus hour stream uh probably with uh all of you in chat it's probably going to be a 30-hour stream series so i'm gonna build today for i don't know four hours or something until i feel like i've i've done my you know i've done my fair share of building and until i'm exhausted and then um yeah we're gonna keep on building i think i'm gonna do like every other day just to give me a day to recover live streaming is exhausting so um yeah we do have basically the entire voron team here um i i mean i gotta say the warren team from from my interactions with them they they're amazing people it's a it's a printer that yes maybe is a bit over engineered it's a bit overkill in a lot of regards but it's from again from what i can tell it's made by a great team of people and they've put a ton of thought into the design and into actually you know how do you call it into maintaining a community into building a community and just being you know being there so um yeah nero3dp obviously youtuber as well building vorons left and right so if you want to check out more warren streams head over there as well as a bunch of other people who have that that wrench symbol um next to them i've added basically the entire voron team as mods on the channel so yeah um they're here if you got questions for them i'm hoping as long as you see them around in chat i'm hoping they can answer some stuff there too so let me go over the parts that we're going to be using as you can see they're behind me i've actually i've cleared off the workbench for once so yeah um oh god this thing is heavy so some of you have already noted that we are doing a kit build so this is the form bot kit that basically has all the components in there that you should need for the build i did replace some of them with higher quality ones um but basically this was my sort of easy way out of just having all the parts there um as a you know just just to make sure i'm not missing anything um really discuss the kit quality versus self source uh so as far as i can tell the kit quality is okay it's like of course you could source better parts but it's it's all right um we of course we'll see like how many issues we run into during the build but that's gonna be something we just you know will cross that bridge when it comes to it um so electronics wise like i said i'm gonna be using the do it so we're going to get to that in a second full do it 3 6 hc plus a 3 hc expansion board that would be simpler you know simpler versions of the do it that would work as well but i have some things planned for this printer that will require the full set we're going to get to that in a second um basically in the kit this is kind of the mother load of parts here this is all the little bits that you would have to self-source so you've got a whole bag of screws of inserts oh these are are these i'm for not sure um heat set inserts t-nuts screws socket heads um cap head well socket heads what are these called uh linsen cuffs in german oh we're gonna go through the manual in a second uh they did not have any skr boards in stock but they did still send over the drivers so this is 2209 i'm not going to be using those we've got power supplies we have an lcd module i believe yep which we're not going to be using as well since we're going to do it they're including drag chains they're including connectors these are solder connectors i'm just noticing these so these are i don't know where these are supposed to go so that's all the little bits that we're gonna need um also linear rails so on the topic of quality these are completely unlabeled no-name linear rails so probably not the highest quality but i've not had rails that were like that bad yet um for the build plate so you can see they did include a magnetic style a pi i don't know if this is pi but key pei um code bed this is it feels pretty thin um but that might just be the size yeah that's that's what it sounds like so this is coated supposedly i've i've been told this works it's got a magnet sticker i've been told this might not work for an extended amount of time um so this i will be using as a print bed and yeah this is you know an upgrade if i need to heater mat which is too small um the warren uses a 230 volt heater so well 220 doesn't really matter and yeah the build plate that that is included this is actually one of the parts that i am swapping out actually let's get this out of the box this does have a declaration on it it's saying hey um this is precision machined aluminum plate so the surface has marks of processing sure as we test the flatness of the part is 0 to 0.1 millimeters which would be fine but with a plate this size um what the warren folks have told me this might not be stress relief so as you heat it up it might cup and that's just not something that would be a lot of fun so the back side is raw and the front side has those fly cutter head machining marks to it actually what is what is that in the back oh that is a you see that there is like a like somebody dragged a ball along the bottom but yeah we're not going to be using this plate that has been or that is included with the kit instead instead i ordered this one from fermio labs and this one is also machine flat you can see it's like one big machining swoop over it and this one is stretch release so this is not gonna cup as the um yeah as we apply heat to it but again the um the heater is a bit small for my taste so this is 250 so it's not the edges are going to be a bit cooler so unfortunately yeah that's not going to be great i might i might replace this eventually but the bed is the one thing that i'm going to be playing with on this printer um also from fermio labs is a wire harness this is with the hello flan hello hello something um this is a very flexible high quality cable and wiring loom i will be receiving another one of these from a spanish company that actually reached out and offered to crimp the connectors for the do-it the do-it uses a different set of connectors to the skr or spider boards or your smaller boards for everything basically so this one i would have to re-crimp half of the well a large amount of connections and yeah they reached out and hopefully that that loom should be here tomorrow and then day after tomorrow is a bank holiday but that should be here in time um right next up next layer of parts next layer of madness that we get digging into enough thermal mass it's not really an issue well i can always point the floor at it and we can see how much deviation we actually get um retro care yes do it does supply connectors with it but i would need to crimp them and crimping connectors is one of those things that i don't think anyone enjoys and i don't think it's an enjoyable live stream experience so if i have to crimp stuff that is more than than just like a handful of crimps i will do that off stream or if i have a wiring loom um then you know no no crimping involved even better for that let's let somebody else do the crimping so next way we've got motors and the let me actually show that so this is the motor that is included with the formbot kit it is the right type number so that 17hs 19-2004 s1 that is the correct type number however it does not have a manufacturer on it so there is no branding no labeling on it so typically that is an omc part number i believe and these are not omc branded motors so i'm just hoping that these will work out so there's four motors for the z-axis one for x y or a and then one for x y b so these are six motors in total six identical motors in total and then one teeny tiny pancake motor that they also actually did supply a data sheet with that's this one right here yeah this is an okada i guess this one is okay uh it's a motor and it's i think it's pretty similar to um the one that i used in back in the day for the e3d titan pancake build this is a very light motor and according to the spec sheet according to the spec sheet there are your specs right there according to the spec sheet where is it there it's a one amp motor 4.5 millihenry and 0.14 newton meters so we'll see how well this one works i'm yeah i'm i'm thinking this should be fine oh drive is overkill for 3d printing yes it definitely is um thomas piconi the these motors are a standard 1.8 motors i believe yeah nero has already answered that so for the extrusions that are included these so supposedly these are oh this one has a tent on the end so supposedly these are the correct lengths and i would assume that they are you know cut square and all that this one you can see already has a ding on the end right there that that one's already dented i'm hoping that's not one that i'm gonna have to butt up to make things square but also as you can see these are very glossy like this is not a this doesn't feel like an anodized finish there's no texture to it at all it's just yeah it's just a very smooth glossy surface so i'm not sure what that is about also the the shape of these and they also have they have very sharp edges or the radius on the edges right here is not that large compared to the ones that i'm used to so we're going to see how well these work they are just extrusions so extrusions in case we need some i have more also included a solid state relay a gold solid state relay of course gold is the highest quality you can get and then we have some extruder parts gears and of course bontec clone wheels with a little roller bearing in there then they also included a an e3d v6 clone and this one is actually of the nicer kind so if you wanted to use that i guess that is actually one that would work how kind of how does this open up there you go so there is the hotend that they're including it is an all metal type it does not have the typical ptfe liner in the heat break and overall this looks oh this looks alright the nozzle looks a bit pointy just a bit pointy on the tip but overall this is usable again i've not tried it so not sure about that uh let's see so i think we're done with this layer there's some bearings there's the ic socket with a fuse um two three four large pulleys these are for the z-axis i believe and then on the side here we've got the din rails which are for electronics mounting in the bottom compartment um these look rather long to me i might have to cut these the manual calls for cutting these um to size uh we'll we'll see and i think that is it as far as the kit goes so that's the last layer i'm gonna leave this in here so that stuff doesn't fall out uh what else do we have yes of course we have the mosquito magnum so this is a hotend that is like not officially supported um on the war on platform yet i'm hoping i'll have a mounting block and fan shroud until we need it i mean it's kind of ridiculous right it's a it's a huge block it's 66 millimeters long in total there's a and there's an enormous mass of copper on the bottom here two two heaters um do i need this on this printer i don't know i'm hoping i'm hoping you know the mechanics are going to be able to push this fast enough uh it's it's a teeny tiny bit overkill but it's mosquito's newest hot end they're sponsoring the stream so i'll try to get this on here um i think i'll be cutting off all the wiring here and i'll be adding some molex connectors but yeah because this this stuff is not very flexible it's not going to go through the drag chains very well so that's going to be the hotend for this build um we also have yeah we have the do it boards why the do it okay um dude reached out they were like hey would you like to use a do it on this build and i was like well you know i've got some things planned for this printer that might require a bit more expandability than what the standard skr or spider boards now use and the thing with do it is so do it did just provide the hardware they're not like technically sponsoring the stream they are sponsoring with hardware um the thing with doit is first of all it's got insane stepper drivers on it so this is trinamic 5160 i believe which have discrete so this is 2160s okay and you can see so that's the that's the driver that's the control and right next to them there are four little square blocks um yeah you can see yeah it's mirrored you can see them next to the connectors on the inside there that is discrete mosfets so these things can drive five or six amps they can probably literally probably literally they can well they can definitely fry an ema 17 if you just push these with full current but yeah the reason why i web shows do it for this is because it has expandability so this is the um the do doit main board the the doit36hc and then you've got the three hc which you plug in through can fd so these rj45 connectors they connect up to the duet 6ht board and then you get another three stepper outputs and thermistors i believe yeah you get three more thermistors you get uh more ios more inputs more switches so that is gonna come in real handy for what we're going to do or what i'm eventually going to do with this printer so we have six stepper motor drives and three on top so nine total the vorono needs uh four for the z motors two for x and y and one for the extruder so that is a total of seven that you need um if my math is correct so we do have a bit of breathing room with the duets and of course you can add more of the three hc expansion boards if you choose to they are including connectors and crimps and a cable that i don't really know what i'm what what it does but we'll find that we'll figure that out so this is the um the jst vh series of connectors and you can see what sort of chunk that is it looks small but yeah this is a 3.96 millimeter pitch connector with the crimps included so i'll be either either the wiring loom that i'm still getting is gonna work or i'm gonna have to crimp those connectors onto my wires uh ribbon cable is a single board computer okay thank you for that i'm not going to be using a single board computer or something like a raspberry pi um that does like the communication part of the do-it i think i'll just be sticking to the built-in web server for do it that does pretty much what i needed to do yeah and there are yeah florian is is pointing out and some others that there are conflicts with warren for rep firmer as far as i'm aware there is no conflict for the 2.4 yet directly for the uh the warren 2.4 on the doit3 platform there is one for the duets 2 and then the expander for the do it too which is not directly compatible with the doit3 so i will need to i guess porting is the wrong the wrong way i'll just use the configurator that reprofile provides and i'll use those values from the 2.4 forward to it to configuration as a starting point um trickiest part is probably going to be setting up the combination that the voron2 uses between a tool length sensor which is a pin that the nozzle physically touches down on to compensate for you know nozzle length changes as you do a nozzle swap or i mean you could install a different length nozzle or tool head even so it is a tool length sensor for that and then it uses a inductive i i guess that's that's an inductive probe it uses a probe um to actually level the bed and to compensate for any warp and and all that so getting that to work and do it is probably going to be a bit tricky because for me for me the the way that do it the z offsets and all that it's already something that that is hard to wrap my my head around so uh i guess i guess we are ready to start assembling stuff i do have some tools at the ready so i did have a quick look through the instructions um we're gonna need some thread lock we're gonna need uh something to set the heatset inserts we've got the regular pliers nice i'm not sure if i'm gonna use this guy probably i'm probably going to stick with the torque limited little drill driver that i'm going to use a framing square for squaring the frame so yeah um that's that's my tool stack over there we're going to see how much we need about that uh rushmore 3d thank you for pointing that out yes i have realized that do it are not including the the can fd cable and if you want to use a do it 6 hc main board with a 3 hc expansion or with a tool board you do need to order one of these rj45 to rj45 one to one straight pass-through cables which are rare in germany actually especially if you would just want one meter and don't want a three or six meter long line to actually hook up your your phone because typically we hook up phones or landline phones with a tae to rj45 plug so ah sorry rj11 i'm i was thinking like oh it's it's different than the no so this is rj11 you are right uh uh dominica sorry so rj11 typically germany uses tae plugs on one end of these and yeah these are these are a bit harder to find but i found one ordered one uh with like five bucks on top of that which is crazy for a cable like that so rj11 i i would have wished it's it would be an rj45 because i have heaps of just ethernet cables which is rj45 uh well choices six-pin modular yeah it's a 6p4c this one that's that's all i need all right [Music] where do we start we start with the manual that is probably a good choice so i do have the official voron 2.4 assembly manual open on the laptop here and we will try to follow that i'm hoping that font is legible because it is pretty thin fonting which looks cool but might be tough to read on stream um yeah so i'm gonna try to follow this there will probably be some things that uh we might deviate from during the build or some stuff that the that the kit doesn't do and that we're gonna have to work around we shall see so oh yes thanks for pointing out the floor around uh where are they yeah actually one of the one of the core parts that i forgot is the printed parts so of course you can print you can print all the parts yourself but these are parts um from the voron printed forward team uh there we go from the warren printed forward team which is a well i guess a way of the war on team to organize people who want to print parts on a war on for future war on builders and these are all abs they're all black for the main parts and red for the contrast color these are some amazing parts there's some really amazing looking and feeling parts i mean i could not have done that better myself even if i tried so that is uh these parts were printed by at least this is a fun banger that's the the little snippet that was included so funland.com printed these um these were provided by the for by the warranty and typically these are parts that you buy and they're i think the 2.4 set is about per 100 which is i think fair for the for the amount of of parts that you get and for the quality of parts that you get you can print them yourself it does use epithelial filament uh it does use up a bit of filament i think it's like it's probably like three kilograms of filament in total if you print everything uh somebody from the from the warren team can probably get more specific on how much exactly it is and it's like eight or nine days of printing i would guess so right let's jump in with the manual so they do have um a bit of a word of caution at the start you are about to assemble a robot please do not become the first war on fatality so yeah you are dealing with mains power um you are dealing with moving parts yeah so just just be careful um stls if you want to print these yourself obviously you're probably going to have a look through the manual primary color accent color and then quantity like all that's all very well organized there are some different versions for which set of parts you can print yeah print guidelines wall count recommended four five top bottom layers and then point two layer height the parts that i have don't look like 0.2 they look like they're like 0.1 or something so no supports required that is a nice one because support material is support removal is the worst and yeah they are mentioning the print it forward program discord channel if you have some stuff that you run into and of course everything is up on github the full the full cad model too like i think somebody already mentioned like it's it would be useful to have the cad model loaded up i don't have fusion installed on any of these computers but it is a fusion 3d fusion 360 design so you can you can you can like actually look at the printer in its full detail once it's fully assembled or it's going to be fully assembled in a cat model that's what i'm trying to say and you can reference that for how the parts should be uh should go together for you um yeah so exactly um adam's pointing out all the printed forward parts are printed to the specs so five layers five top bottoms all there is four walls so these are some very solid parts fun thoughts take your time okay printer parts might require some finishing you're dealing with mains power right explanations of the materials or of the components we're going to be using the button head that was what uh that was the word that i was looking for um button head cap screws socket heads hex nuts shims shims as in that's actually one thing that i that i noticed um it's shims not washes so i guess the shims are made to a more precise spec um or to a different thickness or something but yeah the voron does not use washers it uses shims throughout and then you have idlers pulley so just some some terminology heat set inserts those are included in the kit as well that i bought bearing scrub screws right step one the frame so one thing i actually noticed before i um before i started the stream today was like the frame doesn't have anything that holds it square right other than the frame itself and the ends of the profiles butting up against each other or the the ends of the profiles butting up against the size of the profile so the fact that the like right here one of these one of these corners um the fact really how square your profiles are cut is going to determine how square your frame ends up because you can you can't do you can't really do much to correct for that you can check it but you can you can't really adjust it and you can already see the z-axis linear rails on these profiles so i'll try to build this carefully and as square as possible [Music] this is a brand new table that is hopefully flat i mean i i did check it it is it is pretty flat um this is going to be my build reference the manual i think in a second will call for a glass sheet to um to build on top of but yeah i'll just use i'll use this table there are printer parts that keep the necessary parts square once assembled okay that is good to know so i'm guessing i'm grabbing some extrusions so we're gonna be we're gonna use all of them except the four short ones so let's use all these uh no granite surface plate um nah so i mean the what's what's the war on tagline um we make uh we build spaceships with gardening tools or something so that everyone can make their own spaceship yeah that's kind of the motto of the um of the reprap project originally as well it's like hey we would like you to to be able to build these printers with common tools so that everyone can build them that's the four shorter ones rockets with garden garden shed tools okay close enough that's our there you go there's a frame that was easy enough headphone users yeah sorry um so basically we have we have long ones and we have short ones so the long ones have the end machining to them where there's holes through two sides which is where you can fit that button head screw um goes in the bottom slot and then you reach through with a with a hex key and you tighten that screw that sticks in the end of these profiles pretty common way of building these frames actually it's all it's all explained in the manual mike died hopefully not so screws is also what we're going to need so this is going to be fun because there's just there is a oh yeah there's also magnets included and i think this is the pin that we need for the for the tool length sensor i'm going to keep that safe in the box but yeah screws lots of them uh i so if we run out of screws at one point i do have most of these um in my assortment of fasteners as well m5 one millimeter spacer oh there are brass bases that they're including that's interesting m3 washes all that these these smell like oil m3x20 m5x30 i might need to grab some little um little plastic container 3x8 ah this is going to be an oily mess five by ten hammer nuts okay hammer nuts t-nuts more t-nuts i am glad to see that these are mostly t-nuts these are the ones that you kind of slide into the profile um i much prefer these over the hammer nuts but i guess some just have to be the hammer nut for functionality 3x8 five by ten five by thirty three by twenty spacers three by thirty soaked in oil uh five by sixteen five by forty three by forty four by six three by eighteen so there's a couple that are eighteen and most of them are eight or twenty m five hex nuts so many different screws these heatside inserts we're going to need in a second um by the way this is the type of heat set insert that they're including that hopefully can come into focus so yeah it's the type that has like the double helix herringbone style to them these aren't as far as them i'm aware these aren't that bad m3 nuts 3x12 m3 washer and that should be and there are some self-tapping screws which is for the electronics mounts i believe uh okay yeah paper towels we will probably need a couple uh heavy nuts for the panel clips okay only for the panel attachments all right have the panel so i should be good so basically this is corners that we're going to assemble actually actually so use a low strength thread lock compound here i don't think i don't think threadlock works all that well on oiled up screws so i'm hoping we're going to be fine still we do have a medium strength what's up with that focus i think it focused on the on the um on the profiles medium strength so it's supposed to be a low strength but with the oil and all that should be good and this is the blue the blue stuff is one that you can still remove unless it's like an m3 screw m3 you're going to strip like you're just going to strip the head but everything else blue usually is fine so we have one of these and then we're basically building corners so we do one like that and then one like that and that should be one corner assembled so m5 by 16 button head cap screw thread lock is not really needed wait are you already telling me to not follow the manual that's that's early we've not even put one single we've not even put one single screw in and i'm already told to not follow the menu that is a first so i think i'll just put some thread lock on these because it's you know it's no big deal it's not a big job to add thread locker to these and if it's i mean it's just cheap insurance right that's way too much so basically you just slide these in like so and then you grab a hex key of some sort or you grab a power tool hoping that it's not too noisy there you go and you set it to an appropriate torque yeah that feels about right and you screw that sucker down i'm going to do that on the edge of the table so that i can lay these flat and make sure they are that's not that that perspective is not helpful i'm going to lay it down flat on the edge of the table um just so that we have a flat reference and this sticks through that goes in and we're tight yep that is a good joint um thanks for the five euros aaron much appreciated um [Music] right yeah let's let's see how long i can keep building today we've already spent 40 minutes on just explaining stuff [Music] but i'm hoping i'm hoping we're going to see progress as we move on so i'm hoping we're going to see continuous progress from now on that is i don't know what what i was expecting but this is surprisingly light alright so there's one let's see so we build we build two corners okay you build two of these corners and then we add behind me waiting on all the wiring and that been like that for three weeks now don't have the time and patience right now uh nearest 250 is over 40 pounds in total yeah i guess the frame is is relatively um very i guess it's relatively light uh thank you for the five unseal hoping you're gonna have success with that build um waiting on all the wiring and all that yeah wiring is wiring is the worst it's because it's like hey the printer should be done the printer feels like it should be done but you have to do that annoying job of wiring after getting into 3d printing very recently i have fallen in love with 0.1 parts are on the way and i will be building so what do you mean torque to spec i mean it's if it's tight if it's tight it's it's torque to spec i guess i'm not going to use a torque wrench on these um v 0.1 parts on on the way and we'll be building a 2.4 as well it's like everyone everyone's building vorons like where did you guys get the inspiration to build a warren in the first place was it really stefan that started it all [Music] nope okay two corners done [Music] and these are oh look at that uh unfortunately the top camera isn't the best but if you look at that these are surprisingly either both not square but by the same amount but these are surprisingly equal stefan mentioned in the melt zone oh well yeah i guess i guess i got stefan to build one in the first place uh it's like a virus spreading everyone's everyone's doing forums now the good thing with these 3d printed 3d printers is you can just print more you can you know that's literally the idea behind wrap wrap is you build one printer and well that one printer can now make more oh yes people challenge too as well yeah that's that's one thing that's obviously the warren is kind of a prime choice for so i guess step now is just we have two corners we have two independent corners and we add a center or we add two center verticals these massive growth run when the lockdown started yeah that's that's also something i saw on the youtube channel actually a lot of people were just looking at 3d printing and looking at how to get into it um so yeah that the choice is there hey do i want to build something myself and use that as an educational experience or do i just you know buy a ready-made machine which of course is also valid it's a lot more convenient but you might not learn as much so there's one there's another so how do i square this one up now ah hints in the manual building square okay i'm guessing i can lay this down onto one side and at least build it square that way hold on if i do this first and i do that and then i tighten it like this it should at least be i mean it's going to pull itself tight anyways but in the one direction we have the table well in this direction we have the table and in the other it should be the profile this is going to be a brain teaser to assemble all of these without getting them mixed up like which part goes in with the others how ariel good to have you on on livestream it's yeah there's always a first for everyone um live streams do have a different vibe to everything else that i do like regular videos and live streams are so incredibly different but i mean for for me doing live streams is extremely exhausting uh just because well there's no edit there's a thousand people what i don't know how many people are watching but there's a thousand people watching probably and however you mess up will be on the internet for well i can't delete it but people are there to see it right then and there and i guess a lot of you are also expecting to be entertained in some way and i'm just hoping i can i can deliver on that so now we have the uprights in there so i'm talking this all with the with the clutch on on this ryobi um driver set to eight which like feels right you could of course torque this with a torque wrench and i do have a micro torque wrench for this sort of stuff but i mean you can go overkill and you can go like crazy over to there is no point in twerking down these frame bolts there might be a point in torquing down some other parts on this build but for this it's not it's not it um thanks for the two kyle how long did it take to order and receive it all so this is there are a couple parts that the first one is um receiving just the kit it's now it looks positively huge uh the first one is receiving just the kit itself um from china and these kits are only shipped through dhl express so this was here within 10 days i would say but then of course if you're still adding on to that and if you're adding like little upgrades here and there that's going to take a while to source and for all that to arrive so if you're completely self-sourcing and if you're ordering from china it might be you know six to eight weeks that you can expect to have most of the parts at least where i live shipping to germany with imports and all that can be fussy at times and i think it's today actually or next month or sometime new uh imports rules are going to come or we're going to go into effect so importing stuff from china is going to get more involved and more expensive um so if you do if you source from china that might be something to consider that yes this stuff is going to be probably more expensive and more lengthy from now on because dhl can do it within two days but it's you know clearing imports um paying duties all that that can add up three months nero is saying yeah that's that sounds about realistic especially if you want like if you're collecting parts and you're realizing oh i still need this bit i still need that but i need that um no power tools well that's going to be one bit of the manual i will have to be ignore to be honest i would rather use a drill driver with a clutch just to give me some sort of repeatable torque so do not trust my hands on that and so far i've built pretty much every 3d printer with one of these not this exact one my bosch tools are giving up but with a driver like this and it's been fine so there is that um and i guess i'll just work my way my way around with these this looks like uh you know one of those cubes from satisfactory something that has uh what are they called like versatile frames or something or reinforced frames it's exactly that i think that that that entire game was just about hey we're going to make the most complex 3d printer building simulation because playing that feels a lot like ordering stuff for a 3d printer oh you need that and then you need that part to go into that and yeah modular frames right okay that goes there the good thing is with these holes pre-drilled it's pretty hard to assemble it wrong um like if you have a if you're using like connector blocks and i'm just checking that i'm not missing anything if you have connector blocks and you're using those little angle brackets and stuff you can position those however you want and for example misaligned the misaligned the ends so for example this is all ends four ends in the corner you could build this completely completely differently i'm guessing there is a there is a crossover between people building 3d printers and people playing satisfactory [Laughter] i've played that game co-op for probably 100 hours now or i think that the steam counter is past 100 hours but i mean we've got full full-blown factory and all um not touched nuclear power yet but the problem is the save now won't load it will like repeatedly reliably crash five minutes after you load it so at that point we were just like well this was fun but i can't play like that uh well well hoping i gotta fix that um d harmar um kit or source the parts individually i went the easy way out and i went with a kit plus a couple upgrade parts you can jump back in this stream and have a look at all the explanations of the parts that i'm using here so interestingly this corner right here so i tightened this corner up and this corner here is in place and maybe a millimeter off so that tells me this side here and all these other sides here either have areas that cancel each other out or these are all cut pretty well and i'm i'm starting to think it's the these are cut pretty well version so laser cut square is what i'm trying to say yeah firmware labs was recommended to me as the high quality source for parts the thing is just when i tried to order these pretty much everything was out of stock i would have used fermio probably but a lot of a lot of stuff was not in stock and i had also i had already ordered the deform bot kits when i started looking into them but yeah they are a bit more expensive than buying the kids but you're going to get possibly much much better quality parts than what's included in this kit if you have a hand square well i have i have this was called for a construction square i know this thing is square ish and this looks very square to me so if you go over here yeah this thing is like 30 years old but a bit bit out of whack so this top side is coming in a bit but not by much um yeah this is this is good this is square this is so the thing with 3d printing is always you're going to have to you're going to have to accept good enough at some point so the frame yeah it's going to be mostly square is going to be square up to i don't know one oh that one might not be tapped far enough um it's gonna be squared down to i don't know 0.1 degrees or something but the thing is also the 3d printing process itself has tolerances and and deviations and like inaccuracies that it just naturally brings along with it so yeah building a frame super square for a process that is not super duper precise i'm not sure how much how much sense that would make uh did the banged up extrusion end up somewhere safe it ended up somewhere model is my soldering iron i will get to that in a second yep that is not oh that is not tapped far enough so you can hopefully see how that is still wobbling around so i'm gonna have to tap that with can it there we go i'm gonna have to re-tap that hopefully not bend the frame of the process there so this side i will grab a machine tap real quick uh i'll be right back so again this is the sort of stuff that you probably should expect with a kit like this where it's not all super high quality components you might have to do reworks or workarounds um like these every now and then um i'm just gonna leave this on on this view for a second i'll be right there that's fine right uh okay we dominate the stream now i'm just gonna use the impact the impact gun to piss people off um somebody was asking about the soldering station it's an ad 1080 so letters a letter t eight zero d um and it's not one that i would recommend it's rather low power yeah the soldering iron is pretty pretty weak so pretty easy to break am i even tapping the right side yes i am uh novella no i i bought this during my my student years and i could not afford a villa i might i might buy one at some point or a um what's a proper brand brand that at 10 is is cloning it's got the same styling and everything but impact is to thread to thread yes impact to thread like i said just to annoy some people um too many different brands of cordless tools well makita doesn't make the small guy unfortunately so i do have the rayobi here i could also grab some more bosch but that is not my preferred tool anymore unfortunately pencil saw irons yeah those those ts100s i think juno got one recently are those usable for like doing bigger stuff like soldering to soldering i don't know 1.5 millimeter square cable to a pad on a pcb or something do those work for that because my my fear is always those that those wouldn't have enough thermal mass um in the tip and all and not enough heating power to supply enough heat to heat up larger bits might be great for electronics but sometimes i need to solder bigger stuff as well they're only like 30 to 40 watts yeah so that that starting station has 80 in the names in the name it's got a 60 watt transformer so it's not that different i guess there is our modular frame oh giving you a little uh perspective illusion there and yeah this seems square to me either not rigid enough to actually bump around bounce around but yeah i'm i'm going to call this i'm going to call this square i know it's sideways but it's square like that as well so i think we're good in that regard uh probably oh yeah i'm already scratching up the table oh well it's solid oak i can sand it down that's the good thing about that measure coin into corner uh diagonally [Music] can i use that now measure corner to corner what should we what should we read if we go corner to corner so i'm going to burn 10 here i'm gonna go there so that's 90. corner to corner 94 and a half pretty much oh yeah it should be the same okay that makes sense and 94 and a half and we've got 95 94 and a half pretty much spot on maybe maybe like 0.2 millimeters off that is what i'm gonna call good enough do we still need the frame are we done with the frame no of course we're not done with the frame so i guess i now get to choose a top and a bottom um i guess this works we will use an m5x16 and an m5x10 and a shim as well as i assume some sort of t-nut maybe is this not going to get screwed down i'm thinking i'll use a this is t-not regret measure point two with a thing yeah you know it was spot-on but i could see it was just maybe a little off a point two is like what i at at the very best would be able to tell so yeah manual doesn't include t-nuts okay so we will add t-nuts here i'm guessing it's just assuming you're going to need t-nuts there um m5 so we knows we also need we also need the corner brackets these these are aluminum yeah aluminum these look like plastic with the i'm not sure if this is paint or anodization i think it's anodized um so insert fasteners before you start it makes attaching the bed extrusions to the frame easy don't tighten these down too hard at this stage so these will get adjusted um when the bed first heats up i was told welcome to the warren club uh yeah it seems it seems like everyone's building them one t-nut for each m five by ten so we're gonna need a couple you know m five by ten button head so probably the first real review well technically live streams aren't reviews this is just a hangout format if you're into watching other people build 3d printers or if you're building the same printer at the same time that might be something that that could be interesting just as you know an opportunity to build the printer with someone like a cup and a club well isn't it like nah is there a difference in how he can join a cult or a club what is my older iron i don't have an older iron as a soldering iron single digit serial number v2 do these printers have serial numbers do i get to to like etch a serial number somewhere on this frame once i'm done does that get assigned to uh to you by the by the voron team hopefully that would be something so these screws get a shim and these shims are compared to washers these are thick boys i think that is a proper amount of shimmage um let me see how i can insert these without colliding into each other so yeah that's still going to fit and that is still going to work if you insert well i guess you can do that too so yeah because the m5 by 16 does not have the shim that one sits closer in the in the bracket and then you can still drop this one in that's gonna work so that's these two i assume yeah because they're obviously that exact same length and we've got the same procedure as every year phone am i missing something here so these are going to go on the bottom of the frame like that they're going to support the the bed directly and that's something that i was wondering about is like okay so you have your frame which is intended to be cold or to stay cold and then you rigidly mount your bed plate on top of that i guess like so this is going to expand and contract so the answer was well that is an eight millimeter slab of aluminum these are some relatively thin uh rails we're hoping that these rails are going to give first so there is going to be a bit of tension in these um but yeah with a bed that thick i i don't think it's gonna be an issue uh somebody wants to ask which kit did you buy um the link lists like 20 different ones yeah they're all the same kits um phonebot is listing like 20 different kits on their website or on the on the aliexpress story they're all the same i think some might have shipping included some might not but they are physically as far as i can tell the exact same thing um let me see so i'm gonna tighten the the end caps on um on these bed rails totally and then i'm gonna leave the shorter screws that attach it to the rest of the frame i'm going to leave those loose there we go mounted three screws okay yeah i guess four screws would be overcut but three is still three is still a potential to warp uh how much was this war on well i'm probably using parts that are worth 1500 maybe so that is the kit plus a bunch of upgrades the kits was a bit over a thousand euros to to buy and to import um it's like 899 i think for the 899 for the 300mm version and then of course you have 110 bucks worth of shipping uh you have uh imports which is another like 200 bucks at least for me so you have all of that on top of the cost of your pure kit when you if you decide to buy a kit but there are other shops that is there an orientation i don't think so there are shops that will sell you most of these parts locally uh how did i insert these last because this is gonna be this is gonna be pretty finicky if i try to get these nuts in here i think something like that should work yeah there we go so these t-nuts they have like a roundish shape on the bottom and a little spring-loaded pin right there you can see that that is spring loaded that kind of keeps it in place but you have to kind of swivel them in there we go so that is on its side you basically grab it you swivel it and until it locks into the profile like that it's still loose but now it's it's mostly fixed like you can still slide around but it's not going to fall out by itself i really like this the acnipex pliers do work pretty well for that though i don't think it's the way that you're supposed to install these let's do it again with the fat part towards the outside self-source is around 1500 us dollars yeah that sounds about right so it's for for a diy printer it's a pretty expensive build but it's using some pretty high end parts and quite a few of them so it's not a cheap printer it's not an end of three like if you're expecting in the three price wise you will be disappointed i'm guessing you could use shims here just thinking could probably well shims uh washers for these this isn't really dimensionally critical and a good thing with these t-nuts is you can put the screw in and as long as you don't tighten it down you can still slide them around and adjust the um yeah adjust the exact positioning of them and then the front as long as you don't do that so many things to pull focus on wow so is there an alignment that we have to do because right now these are free to slide around left and right those float for now because your bed location is based off of where your x y max ends up being and also the z and stuff okay so these are basically just left to float for now what is that noise that i'm hearing i'm hoping my mic didn't die no still seems to work someone fisher is asking hey you're going to build this thing totally today ah no no i wish i could i i wish i could but it's it's a bit it's a bit too much of a build to do in one sitting so i'm expecting 25 to 30 hours of build time uh for this whole thing so it will be a a bunch of it will be a bunch of streams until this thing is done and printing okay next up z rails rail spacing three millimeter spacing off at the bottom of the extrusions okay leaves room for the installation of belt covers later in the build and i'm guessing it doesn't like this shouldn't be a critical dimension you can you should be able to space this a bit further up i'm thinking you're not going to drive your hot end like right down into the bed so okay m3x8 no washers no nothing just with t-nuts so i'm going to tighten the down this uh this bed sub assembly just on the lowest torque for now just so it's not flopping around and we can open this up later again yeah that's that's good enough uh okay so you will go on your side and also we need some rails so these are apparently all identical uh rails mgn 9 style viability is faster than nero well no way absolutely no way oh these are these are completely vacuum sealed and these are also going to be very oily that is just the norm for these there you go yeah try not uh that's a bad sign that these don't slide down by themselves typically these are very easy to slide around so quick sound check on these rails that's not that's not too bad these don't sound these don't sound bad of course if you so that this is no load that's with a torque applied to them it's not too bad then with a linear force that's that's pretty good that's pretty good i have definitely felt worse rails these again they do not have any markings on them oh they do have some scratch marks on the back which i guess is a some sort of internal factory mark there you can kind of see it shimmer there's two marks on these not sure what's that what that's about also if you're using these make sure you keep these uh end stops in where you put a zip tie through one of the screw holes or something because if this block slides off you're gonna lose some balls some bearing balls and that slide or that carriage is going to be toast pretty much um you have to remove the oil first it's an anti-corrosion and not for greasing yep it does feel very oily it's the shipping oil that they that they use in general i can oil these uh later on the pair of carriage two rail oh was that eight no that was not a dent so basically unboxing more of these so we need four for each one for each z-axis corner grease squeeze squeeze squeeze grease i'm in lubrication manual well these aren't high wind they're human so they probably do something differently there um the thing with the z-axis is the axis is not going to see a lot of motion like sure you can you can use these rails for a z-axis as well and it's going to be perfect for that but this is a very low low usage axis on the printer uh nero's suggesting getting all these out and using the four worst ones for the z-axis um that is actually a good point and i will try and do that so i guess you guys can just watch me uh degrease my my linear rails for a bit so these are all mgn9 all the same size the same length i probably shouldn't cut in the bearing but this should be hardened so because i shouldn't do much there four worst for z two best for x though i was told only to use one for x so i do have a i do have a spare just in case when am i going to build a hypercube or a heavier headboard or rat rig v something at some point we'll see how well this build goes there's a bit of grime on this rail on this one specific one yeah they are mgn9 these are all mj9 rails yeah i kind of want to work my way through the through the war and if this one works out well if this one ends up being um a printer that works well and a stream that you guys enjoy um i might just go you know war on one war on zero war on switch y voron i don't know are there others there are others i think printer builds are always always i guess fun it's a weird way to have fun but they are they are fun legacy yeah just build the boron 2.0 and then 2.1 and from the 2.2 and just work my way through that single rail afterburner doing fine nice yeah stefan already mentioned on i don't know if it's on the on the newest episode of the podcast of the melson podcast i think it's on it but he did mention like he wants to build a v2 but like space oh this one this one feels okay but space this is a commanding printer i mean this is quite a quite a big frame i'm thinking it's not going to get it's not going to get any bigger than this but i'm guessing these are tolerances that they've written on the back it's not going to get any bigger than this but it's to be honest to be totally honest i don't think this takes up more space than something like a prusa um because yes this is a solid box in the end this is something that you're not going to reach through but if you think about how far the bed on a on a bedslinger printer extends i think that is actually more in depth that actually takes up more depth than a printer like this and on the sides with all the stuff dangling out i don't think this is that much this is using up that much more space to be honest this one's unmarked that one has scribbles on it there are some markings on the back of these which i cannot decipher it looks like some of these are single digit numbers some of these are two digit numbers but the numbers don't make any sense so let's see oh me say that first one is probably on the on the rougher side this one is also pretty rough yep that one as well these three on the left are pretty good and these two are about equal so this is my pool for the z-axis i'm going to kick this one out so we have four of the better worst ones that go on the z-axis and then we have three of the better better ones that go on to x and the two sides for the y axis uh there you go so these we need and these go into storage for now hey stefan's here so stefan when when are you going to build that uh that 2.4 we just talked about you how are you how you are going to build a 2.4 eventually right right all right we need a couple of screws so every other hole thing is so that the manual shows a lot a lot a lot less screw holes than these rails actually have um how many should i drop in here because the manual is like well there's your spacing there's my spacing jeff is going to need a separate printer space yeah manual is autistic okay okay so i'm guessing i'm sticking to what's actually on these rails so that means one two three four five six seven eight nine ten fasteners totally then um with these mainly drawn for the 250 cat oh yeah and the 300 rails are long of that that makes sense so we've got 10 for each rail 2 4 6 8 ten okay let's get these and i'm gonna grab a hex key for this yeah there you go this is gonna be fun just a bunch of bunch of these t-nuts to drop in oh yeah if you just press them on one side that works that works pretty well thanks for everything you to tom you're completely responsible for getting me into 3d printing benjamin thank you for that and i'm sorry for if we're dragging you into this sorry for for for sucking you into this uh a time intense hobby or john i mean some people have something people are making this their job which is pretty amazing but thanks for the tip and uh thanks for for being part of the community uh somebody was asking about the lens julian was asking about the lens so that camera that i've got on there is a sony a7s iii with these i counted 10 and just put them in one pile uh sony a7s3 with the sigma 24 to 70 f 2.8 great lens great camera combo heck inexpensive in germany way overkill for everything but i mean it's fun it's fun doing you know 4k 60 videos even though the stream is in 1080 60 because youtube doesn't let you stream any higher than that m3 by 80. lube your rails yeah maybe maybe i do have some some uni lube here but i don't think that would be the preferred preferred choice for that there's my x keys so these will not get tightened down all the way actually i probably should space these out first and i guess i should also align these two um to the bottom corner before i start everything because that might be pretty hard to to line later on and they want an exactly three millimeter space so i'm going to use a three millimeter screw the shaft of a three millimeter screw for spacing here that's gonna be 2.9 something i know but that goes there that goes there uh what frame profiles do i have so these are the frames that came with the uh formbot kit and they are six millimeter loot no name profiles that's gonna bother me that is really going to bother me can you guys see that marcus match my laptop screen but that t-nut up there he's in backwards it's sticking out i'm gonna have to take that out nine screws into instead of ten oh yeah well that that makes sense then i can just take this one out cool that makes it easy but i'm guessing it i should then have i should then have one in the um in the top hole and not in the bottom because the bottoms bottom is really going to see that much action so we'll need to flip one there we go so one up they go actually i guess the smartest way would be to leave one out in the middle because there the rail is supporting itself more on both sides so i'm going to leave a space there i'm going to four four on top and five on the bottom and that's probably going to be pretty unconventional but thinking that checks out the best would love to see more vern streams plus once you build one vern you'll be hooked and automatically need to build the rest of them winking face oh no what did i get myself into thanks for the five oak man uh that seems to be a pretty common theme that when when you when you start building one boron you you want the next one i've already mentioned that i've already mentioned that i'm i might start building more of these if this one works out ah [Music] oh i did that was not a smart move putting these too far down that was not a smart move because the baron needs proper funding and molex slash ptfe wiring is not cheap enjoy the build can't get in there i can push these up can slide the profile up but not on oh that that works okay i can still slide it up but i okay i should have just taken the screw on anyways notice that molex pj wiring is not cheap enjoy the build thank you for that thank you for the 10. um i do have hold on i need to find my my nuts here there we go um i do have the ptfe wiring the hiluvlon wiring from firmware labs i will get a different wiring boom uh hopefully tomorrow-ish with uh proper connectors for the duet 3. and yeah this was all probably 1500 bucks so far but it's it's all right these this seems to have a fep nearly the same yeah these streams do have a sponsor so we we're good we're good thank you okay so part alignment yes print use print alignment that was what it is 6 783 8422 i have no idea what that um what that message is supposed to be but thanks for the five i guess creation idea machine what what what somebody knows what that was about uh this build is sponsored by slice engineering and the mosquito magnum plus if you start the stream from the if you start the stream from the start you will see that that entire sponsor disclosure sponsor showcase all that is at the start of the video doing 3d did provide parts they're not technically sponsoring the bill um who else was providing parts yeah the volume pif team was was providing parts as well and hopefully the other wiring loom is going to come my way in a second as well in a day or so you printed everything in black um i did not print everything in black these prints are again they are from the pif team super interested in building of r and myself maybe a v0 to start smiley face yeah these these prints are from the warren pif team which is a i guess a way of of the warren team to organize people who have warrens and who want to print parts for others and yeah the red and black well red accent black main parts that is the standard voron color scheme at least with 2.4 i think and yeah that's what i went with there's two rail alignment pieces oh good thing good things try it out um oh yeah there is another one i was gonna keep sliding it down along the rail while tightening it i think that should work as well so we have another one this is actually a pretty simple pretty genius part just sits on there so i guess you just leave these on and then you tighten everything yeah that's going to work what dimensional accuracy is required for the heated for the printed parts um they need to be pretty good as far as i'm aware which is why most of these are printed on previous borons and there is the first rail attached to the frame just three more but hopefully those three should go faster so i'm gonna put the end stop the bump stop back in so that i don't accidentally you know crash this carriage off the rail don't want to do that i'm hoping i put that into the into the correct side ah yes okay i put that into the correct side thankfully i could have i could have put this in like on the other side and that would have been i guess it would it would have still worked maybe but it would have been wrong so that is the correct side on the side that is basically in line with the bed rails um what else okay so that's in now it's just three more three more rails for this entire thing but hopefully that should go faster so i did five on the bottom and then four in the top and mac robison thanks for the two just finished the warren 2.4 why watching another boron build i thought you just had like 30 hours of war on building that's going in pretty well yeah apparently once you build one that's it you you just you're just lost you're gonna build more and more and more until your your space is used up so yeah um one note on the printed parts um all these parts are printed well all these parts as you see not literally not as a single printed part but all the printed parts on the voron are expected to be printed in abs i guess asa would work just as well but since this is i guess technically an enclosed printer or one that could be enclosed um and yeah you've got stuff like motor heat to deal with printing them in a heat in a particularly heat resistant material is probably a very smart move hold on what am i doing here there there there then we do that we had four up top yeah so yeah these parts are all the parts from the pif team are all printed in abs as are the um red accent pieces so that should allow me to just drop it in so we have all the um all the t-nuts aligned i'm going to keep the screw at the bottom here just to give me an you know that that three millimeter offset and supposedly now you drop on the alignment tool one in the top one on the bottom and we should be able to just plop screws in and tighten those down tpu voron when whatever works for you but i'm guessing these parts do need a bit of rigidity maybe you could not print the parts with a prusa um so the way i print the way i print the abs parts is with a prusa in a box so prusa in a osb wood box just just to close it off and that gives me enough of a of an ambient temperature rise for the parts to come out really strong not crack during printing and it also keeps the smell contained just a bit so yeah if you have a printer i mean if you have a printer that uses pla printed parts maybe don't do that because you're gonna you're gonna melt your parts but if you have a printer that at least uses ptg parts you can just put it in it doesn't even have to be a wood box it can just be you know an amazon shipping box or something as long as you're like eliminating any and all drafts that might arise um and might happen around the printer so yeah and and i found that basically any bit of ambient temperature rise that you can get helps a lot um where my printers live in the basement here is it's pretty cold especially in winter we have like 15 degrees ambient in summer it's like 18 maybe and that is not the bit it's perfect for pla like pla prince love that but for abs you are going to have uh immense warping issues so yeah putting a printer in the box is definitely mandatory in that case an enclosed warrant v2 should be around 50 degrees celsius when enclosed and at abs temperatures yeah that's the thing as soon as you use a box or some other type of enclosure just the heat from the bed mostly the heat from the bed that already heats up your air inside the printer to a point where it's going to be suitable for abs or it's going to at least be better for abs so the voran technically is an enclosed printer it doesn't have any you know unlike the ultimaker 3 which has that bone tube sticking out that kind of makes it hard to enclose and the warren 2.4 should be pretty much all enclosed does it have a top i don't think it has a top pedal right but it wouldn't be impossible to use a top panel so i guess technically it is in close and with with all abs parts you shouldn't have any issues with with your parts warping how smooth are the rails so let's give it a sound test on the on the frame itself oh that's pretty good that's pretty good hey and apparently max is also here why why am i not seeing the mod symbol okay i'm probably missing something in chat right now but yeah two wheels on yeah with the with the oil removed they do slide around a bit better that's that's i mean that's pretty good that's pretty good that's the one in the back as well good enough for me uh two more five in the bottom four at the top yep it doesn't really matter but you know if i'm gonna if i'm gonna build one of these might as well at least space out things equally screw it there's that screw just using that screw as a spacer because it is roughly three millimeters now these are these are actually pretty easy to push in i thought i'd need like a tool or something to use and and to lever them in but turns out you can actually just push down on them with your bare fingers like that and they pop in place so that's pretty good that's one of the reasons why i oh i love these t-nuts just so much better than than hammer nuts if you use the hammer nuts i mean you can do that too but basically you need to attach them to the rails or whatever you're mounting to the profile first and you have all your nuts sticking out and then when you tighten it down you're hoping that they're going to spin the way they they intended to and not just not spin and just back up against your python t-nuts are i'm not gonna say the worst but they're not great i don't enjoy using them and i try to avoid them whenever possible and the thing is also with these hammer nuts you can drop and you can drop them in and remove them whenever you need to you don't have to um like with the cheaper stamped tile stamps type and i think their flow drill or something with the with that type you do have to slide it into the ends of the extrusions before you put anything on and before you close off the end but with these you can add and remove them at any time where the max key there it is so alignment tools one on here these alignment tools feel fairly loose for knowing how sensitive these rails are for um how sensitive these rails are to misalignment and you can see that is that is slightly rocking around still but i'm guessing the because it's still using printed parts there is going to be some elasticity in the entirety of the assembly so i'm thinking that should be good enough uh mikhail is asking how expensive was the kit the kit um so this is the 300 millimeter kits that i got from formbot um is 899 for that size it's 839 for the 250 and i think like 939 for the 350. um but that is plus shipping they only ship it with dhl express which is another 130 dollars ish and then plus imports which is just vat and imprint duties if that's that's applicable to your country in germany this was like another 200 bucks for me so the kits in total pretty much exactly uh 1 000 euros pretty much exactly with dollar to euro conversions etc it worked out to be that pretty much exactly sp4n where did you where did you buy that um i'm missing a screw still did they really send it via dhl express i think they actually did send it via dhl express because yeah i remember doing the doing the customs through dhl expresses website because obviously you know when you order these sort of things they're not declared properly so you have to do the tax declaration basically again from your side so yeah uh mark ferris i'm building a 300. i thought like well this is you know this is going to be a relatively large printer i don't want to like build the absolutely largest one for well both for space and for rigidity because you know the larger preview printer and if you don't scale up your components as well you are going to lose rigidity because just your your levers are going to be longer um so this is the 350 you could also build it in 250 or 350 but for me i was like well 350 is probably a good size it's probably a sweet spot size more or less probably if you want to do the absolutely fastest print speed if you want to you know do the speed boat race um building a 250 is the smarter choice i don't know if you can build you can you can probably build these even smaller and go with 200 or something but yeah i i don't want to like build this for the memes and just build a printer that i'm going to spend 30 hours on the build itself plus you know all the prep work etc and then just be able to print a fast bench i want this to actually be practical and also i do have some something planned for this um that is going to require the space so um a 250 would probably not have been large enough right but parts wise they're pretty similar so longer belts longer linear rails longer extrusions uh different skirts so you can close off like your electronics compartment in the bottom with a skirt and obviously if you if that distance is longer you would use longer longer skirt parts but other than that it is really just a scaling thing where you use longer components as far as i'm aware scale of someone scale the 2.4 down to 150. okay i'm guessing that thing can print pretty quickly then yeah the the good thing is with the core xy setup you're not adding that much extra weight by scaling up yes your your x gantry is going to get heavier it's more weight that's going to need to be moved around but compare that to a bedslinger system or a bedslinger setup you can't really scale that past 300 because your bed starts getting so heavy and just so so well you need for for your larger bed you're going to need for a larger moving bed you're going to need larger belts um just to reduce the the amount of ringing you get and to stiffen up that drive system you're going to need you're going to need stronger motors you're going to need possibly a frame that can absorb or absorb all that um all that that the weight is slinging around and can provide rigidity for that and you will also with a with a bedslinger build you're also going to need a heap heaps more space because you don't just need um with this build with the 2.4 the bed is completely static and just the tool that moves around that but with a bedslinger you need twice the depth of your usable bed size so i mean that's one of the reasons why the prusa is 250 wide and just 220 deep and now 250 deep and 220 wide because well that would basically add another 5 or 10 centimeters in needed space in depth yeah warren 2.4 scales pretty well in z direction um i can see that yes i can i can see that wow wow really tom um i think it's just i i really rarely need z space uh on the stuff that i print and also the i mean the parts that are printed for the voron i think none of them are really taller than four centimeters something 40 millimeters um so yeah the z-axis is is like the least interesting access to me which is which might be why delta printers were kind of a fad i don't know uh is that okay yeah that's okay so there's two there's two more that's better so there is the yeah shouldn't bend the frame like that there is the frame built and we have some z rails installed rail spacing we did all that having to take these off again would be crazy this page intentionally left blank which means we can have a quick drink of uh some tap water we are a big fan of your videos and warren it's on our to-do list to build a plug-in for either fluid or mainsail all right thanks spaghetti detective yeah um i'm guessing the the high dehumidifier um i'm guessing the the static nature of the bed of the warren would be pretty good for if we're doing like webcam time lapses because you don't have the bed moving back and forth you're just building the print up yeah time lapse is really good and also for what the spaghetti detective does with the ai print failure detection not that i think this printer will ever produce a failure but you know just in case that would be pretty good because you have no no motion blur or anything okay um do you have to go back and check that all the screws and bolts are tight uh nah nah nah uh no gummy bears around unfortunately yeah so next up after the page left intentionally blank which is weird in the pdf manual but anyways the z drive assembly so and this is where that that point of this thing being kind of kind of over engineered comes into play so this is just to drive one side or one corner of each to the party really cool build tom one one of each z corner so we're gonna have a completely moving up and down xy core xy assembly and then each corner is going to have its own drive unit but i'm guessing that means we can drop the frame off behind me real quick yeah one of the good things about rigid frame is you can just toss it around as long as you don't bump it around and get it out of alignment actually we can that's the cheaper bit but there's that if you want a sense of scale that's the 300 millimeter bed uh in the printer and also three inches tall so that's the that's going to be the maximum build height basically uh disappointed by the lack of a sanctioned snack break call out yeah that's actually that that's a that's a tip for the for the warren team like use that blank page and uh use that blank page and mandate a snack break okay um yeah z drive z drive so there's an accent print piece in there there's another accent print piece down there there's a foot you have a motor pulley small belt a large pulley and then in that back hole back there i'm assuming that's where you're going to get a belt popping out that actually attaches to each of the corners of the x y um or if the core x y x y assembly that goes up and down so that's what we're going to build next this is an 18 where they have my 18s there is yep i do have more screws if you lose some ah all right z drive assembly so this is you can already see the heat set inserts in there we're going to try and heat set those as well all right components components component components pulley motor inserts printed points let's try and find those so i'm hoping these bags with these are labeled one two and three i'm hoping these are in order for the for the order that you're gonna need them in there is a packing list is a packing list that was included with all the little bits and bobs and printed parts all the printed parts that are included in that kit for some reason the a the accent colored parts aren't marked off but they are included so that's all the parts that were printed and i'm guessing they are yeah so that they are in function sorted by function group but then i also have the backs that are labeled one two three so this is one and this actually looks like it's the one we need so we have we should have four corners which means we should have four identical or at least mirrored sets of parts so these are identical these are four identical parts as well one two three four motor brackets then these these look like something oh these these are so angry why why are these angry a little angry block right there there we go oh we also have that perspective yeah i didn't use that yet four blocks of these four there's the rail alignment two we might need those later and four of these so i'm thinking that's gonna be four or four corners four of each four corners four identical we also need some accent pieces which well we're gonna need those in a second we're gonna need those in a second we'll get to those once we um once we need them so motor mounts there's gonna be an axle going through these idlers i hear these are i idlers oh god and then some part that i have no idea what it does but basically basically pulleys and doing heat set inserts for [Music] these so these parts and these just have the through holes on them so these will get some thankfully they aren't wobbling around these will get some heatset inserts so let me grab my soldering station that's why i have my soldering station with me today and i do have a tip that i ground down you can see that hopefully oh why is this loose this oh that's that's fantastic um you should not be falling apart right now that's that's a bad time to fall apart no no no that feels solid whoo that is stressing me out okay are these um mjf parts no these are fdm parts these are what the voron apparently is capable of so these were printed on avoron 2.051 and this is what that machine produces all abs parts um yeah abs printed on a regular printer 0.2 millimeter layer height too i already said like well this is i don't think this is 0.2 but it's i don't believe it's two but it is point two so yeah i do have that special tip as i said um hope you can see that right there that should allow me to slide a um one of these inserts right onto it like so like so like so and then that is not gonna jam if you just use go in the other half hold on okay thanks for catching that um i would have wondered why they wouldn't fit okay these parts why are you so blurry this is where we're gonna need to to install the heated inserts into the heat set inserts okay that's the that's the manual that's the part right i guess the the lack of this large detail should have been a dead giveaway whoops okay but theoretically this should be the correct side theoretically i should be able to push these in and there we go that's set that does feel rather loose it doesn't feel like it's like really smooshing its way in but that's what we have so the iron is set to 250 i guess i could go a bit higher than that and just to give it a quick test fit yep m3 fits perfectly yeah and and it's pretty hard to pull out temp low and slow go 200 okay i'll turn it down to like to [Music] 15. i know the temperature on that iron is pretty is pretty low it's lower than what it says it is i'll just preset all these while that cools down a bit the screws will go yeah the screws will go in from the other side i thought as much since it has a through hole and this looks like it has the matching um counter bores so i'm guessing you don't even need um the this style of insert this is the nicer style of threaded insert you could go with the cheaper ones as well though the problem with the cheaper ones with these super cheaper ones is they like to kind of create a neck at the bottom so as you try to screw into them from the bottom you would have that that wall of plastic you'd have to screw through first for the stream go 450 iron should be down at temperature but i'm going to finish setting all these first yeah i'll be i mean obviously these need to be very particular diameter these are much larger than the cheap ones but what i'm saying is that the parts could have been designed for the cheap ones if it's just pulling from the other side the parts could also have been designed for uh just using a nut squaring out to something that gets um you know that is that is sunk into this side but heatset inserts are just so nice to have um you know you set them and they're not going to fall out they're not going to rattle around they're going to be a zero slop solution for this exact problem so let's do this one first i also like that the way that these sit in there before you before you set them so the iron is saying 214 still 214. 214 is what i'm going to tell you is set to but it is very satisfying for these two to well to watch these go in also that the feeling you get on the um on the iron tip it's just like it's gliding in it's a very very satisfying job to do very satisfying task to do so i mean so far as far as the kit goes it's not that bad i did expect worse um i did review a printer from foambot before which was the raptor 2.0 and that thing was uh oh no bumped it that thing was something so i was having uh pretty low expectations for this kit but so far it's i think it's very usable i think it's very okay except for that one you know that one extrusion that wasn't drilled all the way but that's a pretty easy fix make sure to have ventilation running um this room does have ventilation but we're not i mean we're not like re-melting abs just a really small bit of abs that's getting heated up shouldn't be shouldn't be a huge issue okay and then we need to do the three of the one that i bumped out camera please i'm back on manual focus i guess i could also change the autofocus just to be box focus and not full screen face detect your iron tip should not be that long well sorry my tip is just long that's the way it is these tips by the way if you want to make one yourself it's super easy you just file down a tip i think i put this one in a drill chuck and um and file it down until it was that shape pretty much perfect solution i think you can you can buy these two if you want a ready-made solution but yeah um hustle print asking printer parts came with the kit no the printer parts did not come with the kit that i think is the one component that you do not get included with the formbot kit however you can you can buy them outright from the voron printed forward team which is a group of volunteers basically that are printing more voron parts on their borons the set for the 2.4 is 100 bucks if you want to buy and that is the exact parts that i'm using these are parts from the pif group as well they are very nice they're probably nicer than they need to be but that's kind of the recurring theme with this entire printer and there we go that's all the heat sets satisfyingly heat set and these are all just below flush there are printed parts from aliexpress available there are questionable says nero well as is as is most stuff on aliexpress well some stuff is less questionable than others but yeah uh nice of his think you can choose it as an option with the kit i don't think you can i don't can you i don't know printed forward printed forward yes printed four oh that's what's that sorry sorry for that for not explaining that all right so we have four heat set four parts with the heat sets all installed next up four motors so these motors have the wrong connections on them and i will need to re-crimp them at some point i will also need to re-crimp the motors or the cables that are in the x y or on the a b motors but i'm not going to worry about that for now i'm just going to keep the original cables on them which is i believe a p ah ph ph connects with the standard step connectors uh which is jst whatever standard stepper connectors that's what they come with which works for an skr or the spider board but does not work for do it so yeah i will need to to re-crimp these eventually or make an adapter or something um i i do have um i do have motors that come with the with little sockets with the connectors on the sides and don't have the fixed cable but i i mean i have two boxes of spare steppers but i'm not sure if those fit the spec that the waron build requires so my my guess is that the motors that are included with the formbot kit are closer to that voron spec because they are labeled with that exact spec number so cool i want to print yourself without prusa um the warren team reached out and offered to send me these parts i was like well if you guys would rather have me use parts that you know are not going to give me trouble i will gladly use your parts saves me a bit of printing time so i could have printed i could have totally printed these myself but the foreign team offered to send parts so i'm not going to say no to that so pulleys police where are police in already here parts around these please that's either there's more poke yeah bye please i'm guessing that's one of those two are these identical no so there's two types of pulleys that are included there is the i should just switch your focus mode on this thing there's the 16 tooth five millimeter two gt and the nine millimeter p5 whatever p5 stands for um but this is the one that we're gonna need i think what printer would you recommend for schools you know schools and like public institutions are are a bit tricky because usually a school is going to require special types of certification and compliance or whatever from the printer manufacturers so that already eliminates and and if you're in the u.s like i think you can only buy from u.s companies that already eliminates so many options that would be great for schools which is i think where loadspot had a lot of its we will apply thread look to this in a second which is where where luthbot i think had a lot of its business which was schools because they were a us company matterhackers also have a have their line of printers i think geared somewhat towards schools and institutions but really it depends on where you are and what your requirements are as usual there is no blanket this is the best printer for school statement i think like if you can if you can use the brushes obviously those are the printer that i right now go to when i want to print something is the mark iii but there are other printers that do that job as well again if your school can buy those by minis if you if you're on a budget that works out yeah and and thankfully okay if you're in germany like shipping from the czech republic isn't that bad what with that don't don't try and build anything yourself like that's gonna you're gonna be responsible for that then for the rest of your career and yeah i don't know if you really want to do that so uh grub screws need loctite i know i know i'm putting that on any second um so manual calls for using two grub screws though because these motors do have the d shaft they do have well that's hard to see so d-shaft i mean you know what these stepper motor shafts look like sort of right there um one side is cut down if you just add a second screw from the side that i don't think that's really going to do much so actually these go on the other way so if you plop that on like this and tighten that screw down that's going to sit down on the uh on the d shaft on the d of the shaft the flat side and that's going to be pretty much all the torque that's going to transfer so yeah i usually just go with one grub screw slather it with um with threadlock and that that should be that should be good uh is there a alignment required for these pulleys it looks like it's actually it's a bit past flush so it's a bit inset i'm thinking this should just be aligned to the end of the shaft so flush flush with the end of the shaft that's what i'm what i'm thinking you align them with the belt okay so i'm putting thread lock on now and then realigning them later okay just hoping this doesn't set up before we um we make it to that step i'm just thinking of the of the newest video from from stuff made here right now where it's like hey you have all your parts work in a vacuum but as soon as you assemble them stuff goes wrong and it's it's going to be hard to diagnose that's what i'm what i'm getting as a vibe right now with the uh hey you applied threadlock now and then you assemble it and then like you align it later i'm hoping that stuff is still going to be accessible now um i i mean i don't know if i'm going to be able to apply thread lock later that's why i'm putting it on now i don't want to assemble it all and then i have to take it out again but by the way great video from stuff made here the door lock yeah with lock picking lawyer love that sort of stuff so this one's just going to go on flush for now flush-ish plenty of room to put it on later well i don't know that rather put it i'd rather have it on now i'd rather have it on and not need it then not have it on and need it later and not have it have creately offered you a cr01 nope don't think so need to invest in some good quality uh cr o1 scanner uh hold on no uh just did that you need to invest in some good hex drivers uh yeah you can you can see i'm starting to go on autopilot that's that's dangerous that's where i start to make mistakes so we'll we'll see how much longer it can last here um need to invest in some good quality hex keys yeah this is just the one that i grabbed out of my random hex key box if you have some nicer drivers here um i know t handles all that once once i grow up i'll get some nice ones i promise there's some motors four little motors okay so that's on heatset inserts are in don't use red red is like one stronger right i also have purple no i have i have green i have green uh don't prop don't don't use green don't use green on anything like you're never gonna get those apart again don't ask me how i know that was an expensive mistake uh okay so these motors are i guess we're gonna set these aside for now drop screws we're not gonna need so now we are assembling a shaft belt drive shaft we're gonna need the pulleys we're gonna need some bearings we need shims that's the other police then okay is that the other pulleys 20 tooth nine millimeter is that these i guess oh yeah right because yeah because these are what's going to be driving the uh zx system directly um you get a box dedicated to hex yeah so this is just the box of like random printer stuff i you know when i take apart a kit stuff goes in here and i take out and and put back in as i need to so we are going to need these pulleys please what are you you are f695 we don't need you yet but we need the six two fives and we also need some shafts you also need some shafts i'm hoping i can find those that's idlers belts i'm thinking we're gonna need belts right some more pulleys that's y there's some open loop belt ah found him found him shaft five by sixty because i guess these are the only oh these are d shafts interesting okay so these have the uh the d groove or the d flat cut on them interesting uh let me go through the the chat real quick do we know the differences between or quality differences between the different kids no idea ask nero or one of the other folks who have built multiple of these before i so far only know this kit and it's it's all right uh vibra tight is nice for thread locking so also not closed loop i'm guessing i should leave these in the box then somebody asked how how are you capturing the screen of your ipad um well guess what it ain't no ipad it's a it's an hp convertible hp pavilion convertible ah there they are uh what else wiring takes six lifetimes to crimp i'm hoping to have a that's for ya hoping to have a finished wiring loom here tomorrow that's fits these exact components that i'm using including the do-it so nobody nobody likes wiring uh yeah yeah so the bags are the bags in this kit the bags in this form mod kit are labeled so for example the ones that i just took out of that was a gt2 nine millimeters so i'm going to put the bbq nine millimeter belts back into that one because the individual baggies are not labeled at all bearing shafts shims pulleys guessing that's these yeah bearing bearing pulley okay should have it all good belt what is this labeled gates oh look at that so supposedly this is a there you go gates belt if that is i mean if that is accurate that these are genuine gates built the other ones also say gates so if that is if that is accurate if these are actually gates belts that is a very good step at least that is um you know something that you're not going to have to upgrade later on so i mean any of the cheap belts i would say it's like you use those you throw those out like if you if you're building a boron there is no point in using sheet belts um but these do look these feel rigid these do look good so these are some chunkers of a um of a pulley these are 80 tooth i think i've bought 82 before and these are not cheap these are like 8 to 10 bucks each at least the last time i bought them they they're they're pretty they're pretty big pulleys but i guess they are what allow do you actually need them they are what's what give the z-axis its resolution for the most part and it's holding torque so because these basically gear down the stepper motor so much you're not going to have issues with your z-axis drop or with your entire assembly of your x y z gantry basically dropping down i think so yeah unfortunately the higher required for better or for worse yeah the belts do look belts do look legit and there we go since switch-wise some people use keybacks what is a what is a keyback so yeah zero uh focus below z resolution yes you also theoretically get extra z resolution um if you have auto bed leveling like z resolution on your stepper motors is not going to be that big of a deal because you have you basically have dithering um in the motion of that axis now but if you don't use bed leveling auto bed leveling um then yeah that is going to be something to consider oh that's a nice pulley box that's a nice stack of shafts camera come on there you go retractable killer for what why are you not going in oh there you go oh those belts keep okay okay the i just know him in in ski resorts that he used for your um for your key card or something before you're for a day pass they use at the lifts right so assembly um bearing pulley double shim bearing double shim small pulley bearing no shims because um no shims around the outside bearings i'm guessing that's just going to be free floating which is going to be fine let me zoom that in okay can you show the blue glue it's threadlock medium strength just regular blue thread lock nothing nothing special really so that goes on like this i'm going to put the bearing on last because that's just going to keep falling off these are not threaded all that well there is like a bit of swarf at the very bottom that then two shims oh that shim has ouch and that's that shim has a good amount of swerve on the inside i'm gonna set that aside for now hopefully we have enough spares that we can not use that one two shims two shims then bearing and the shims came off perfect uh what hotend did i use with the kit um this kit came with an e3d v6 clone which actually looks pretty decent um but i will be using the slice engineering magnum plus with this uh which is going to be a wild ride to get that to work but especially because it's because the printer is not made for the magnum plus but yeah magnum plus is going to go in here so you know if one thing's certain we're not going to be limited by the meld rate of the hotend in this build speed is not going to be limited by that at all claiming like something like 90 cubic millimeters a second just for come on just for reference a typical prusa profile on the mark 3 i think is limited to 15 and magnum plus is saying okay we're fine until uh we hit 90. so and yeah the motion system is going to be the thing that that caps out first for sure so there's that bearing in the center i don't even know if you need that center bearing so that's i'm assuming that's going to sit in these like that and it has a bearing on each side it has a bearing on either e it has a bearing on either end not sure if it needs to center one but hey it's there oh yeah i mean okay okay yeah it does need the center bearing hold on because the center bearing is actually what aligns this um longitudinally laundry along the axis of the of the shaft um so this one on the end yeah because the two at the end are free floating the one in the center is the one that holds it left to right so that's pretty that's pretty good that is pretty smart and you don't even need to like perfectly align uh each bearing or align the shaft that perfectly because well look at that it's off like by two or three millimeters and still rides perfectly fine that is nice ah having having something that uh that spins with a bit of masthead with a bit of inertia to it is uh that's satisfying okay so there is one of the z-axis transmissions i guess you could call this or gearboxes uh just three more to build did i put thread lock on this i think i did yeah so basically the position of the shaft just needs to be slightly slightly poking out and then we can go ahead and lock this one down right away make sure the grubs have liberal thread locker yes they do have plenty of thread locker and i think i'm going to tighten that one down again in a second just to make sure it's it in there printer will be using the axis pulley unfortunately yeah this um i guess it's it's rigid enough so that it can work with three right just to make sure these are all tightened down well it's it's you're threading into aluminum but the grub screws are pretty long so you can twerk these down fairly well uh what materials what material did i print these parts from did i print the the printed parts from i did not print these parts these were from the voron printed forward team and they're all abs so the recommendation and the requirement for these parts is abs because they are technically in an enclosed volume they are backing up and supporting motors that are going to have quite a bit of heat output if you run them at high currents to sustain the speeds and all that and yeah the did i not already do these pulleys now um yeah the pilots are going to see some significant amount of heat and while you could probably go with ptg you could get away with ptg abs is the safe option there is that and that goes on like so i keep referencing uh the manual here just to make sure we're building this one with all the parts in the correct spots seem ptg fail way too often please don't use it okay okay do not use ptg do not use ptg then that's a recommendation from nero who has way more experience with building these than i do so austin saying warren is a diy printer king the thing is this is a the warren is a very special kind of diy printer this is the the printer where there's no no holds part is that how you say that um no no tabs pull no no restraint on on how far to go with the design and with um with implementing that the concepts that the folks want to see implemented like hey you want a f4 motor z-axis drive with a what is a 16 to 80 gearing sure let's do it reasonable printer designers would find a work way to work around that people who are just enthusiastic about the entire thing and want to have the best possible and the least expensive spared kind of build they design a war on and that makes for a um yeah non-plus ultra that's a that's a good term to describe it that's makes that makes for a for a very nice build in the end indeed so two more to build these do go pretty quickly thankfully maybe at the close belts for now um i'm gonna add i'm gonna assemble all four of these gearboxes of these gearing shafts for now i guess belt reduction shafts to be more accurate and then we can move on to building the entire assembly that these are being used in you don't buy vor and you build a vorn yeah that's that is true um i mean you can't you can't really buy a assembled born at all you have to build it and that is part of the process i mean i keep recommending uh people to buy again the prusas as a kit if they have the chance if they think they they can handle the build which isn't that bad and i don't think that the warren built so far has been that bad it's just it's gonna take a while um but if you can handle the build and if you have the time to do so building a printer is always going to be a much more educational experience than just buying one also because you learn about the machine you learn about the ways that it works the ways that it can fail possibly and well you you get you get intimate with that machine you learn about it in and out ins and outs and in the end when something goes wrong there's not an if that is when something goes wrong and when you you're puzzled by something that's going on you will know much more about the fact that this thing is completely out of focus um than if he had just just outright bought a machine so yeah kit building is something i think is very much worthwhile so more shims uh somebody suggested hey you should speedrun the last one and beat the record what i mean i should speedrun the last one oh speedrun the assembly of the last of the four z corner pieces maybe but we passed that somebody should put up a speed run time or something but i guess it's it's one thing to build it with [Music] average amounts of preparation i'm going to say not totally unprepared but i've not have not read through the entirety of the manual or something and it's one thing to do like that to do a first build and to build this thing for the i don't know fifth time or something like nero has done okay and at that point you can look into doing speed runs it's the same with with like doing video game speed once you don't do that the first time you you play it you do it the 50th and the 200th the 200th time you played you do the speed run but not not the first time the first one you just enjoy the ride right so there is four of the gearboxes whatever built next let's consult the manual apply threadlock compounds uh not only to the nine millimeter grip screws yes but also the adt i think the now they see they both see the same torque okay install heatset inserts oh we got more heatset inserts that is nice um assemble belt drive you're just using i'm guessing i'm guessing we can assemble these and then install the heatset inserts later on in three by forty that's these all right we can already see that the sticker is is like dissolving from the oil that they used ah i hate that that shipping oil that they use basically i mean the main reason why so many components are oiled up uh straight from china is so that they don't rust on the ship basically these screws do they need to be holed up i don't know but it just makes working with them unpleasant and also the thing with these uh black screws well what are these called um not anodized anyway with these black screws the thing is also once the oil wears off and once i don't know you clean that off and they see the slightest amount of of moisture these are gonna start to rust these will look so nasty in two years time um i do prefer stainless black oxide yeah nitrate nitrate yeah i do prefer stainless or just plain old galvanized um screws because they they don't there's no downside to using them sure these look nice because they're black and all but i would prefer using galvanized screws with this right zoom zoom so make an alcohol bath yeah i mean the thing is as the more um the more of the oil you remove the easier they rust so that is kind of a choice you have to make do you get oiled up while you build it or do you degrease them and do you have a rusted up printer in in a bit of time so why did you consider building a voron the question is like why did you not or why would you not consider building a war on there's one then the other half just goes on like this okay these are a bit sticky maybe maybe that was printed onto glue stick perhaps and then these screws just go in from that side and hopefully they're long enough to reach to those heat set inserts why didn't you consider building one earlier yeah that's that's a better question time i guess had other stuff going on are the aluminum 80 tooth gears interchangeable with the m4 extruder ones i'm not sure what that question is so those screws are slightly sticking out on the bottom so not sure if you can see that but yeah they're just ever so slightly sticking out um the seat that these screw heads sit down onto is not a counter board it's actually a counter sink at the bottom of these of this counterboy so it's a it's basically enough space for the screw head to go in and then it's a taper it's a 45 degree taper i guess that is for printability but that also means the contact patch of your screw head is going to be quite small and you can feel by tightening them down how that compresses down um the problem with that is this might creep over time i'm sure the warren team has thought about that and has thought of that but just one note maybe maybe do the do the bridging layer that you drill through instead instead of having that that taper because this is a very soft tightening experience they were saying no issues so far i mean this is not a critical part or anything but it just feels feels weird oops oh you know what i do have i have a tool for that why am i doing that by hand if only i found mine there they are i'm the correct driver that takes just way too long so torque let's see that should be good [Music] hmm that is interesting so that is actually you can you can see that that is actually pulling the insert into the part let's do that with the one next fit as well yeah but not that much i guess i should click the torque down a bit on these twerk limit on this ryobi isn't all that good but i'm guessing that's tight that's going to be probably tight all right next one whoops uh why not the bosch anymore because the bosch is dying all of my 12 volt posh tools are failing and i'm i've had enough of that on that no this one on that boss driver that i used to do that i used to use and that actually had working torque limiting um the [Music] the trigger is starting to fail so you pull the trigger and the led starts lighting up and nothing happens so i chose to try ryobi and it's very mediocre as expected belt belt belt belt belt belt belt okay okay i see i see you does this need a belt really there we go thank you for that that's why i have youtube uh the youtube stream mode on ultra low latency so you guys write something i see within seconds thank you stop using the drill i don't know it goes so much faster i know we should just get a t-handle driver or something i'll finish it off by hand okay but the question is like how tight should these be because again i can feel it kind of pulling into the material and sinking down into that into that 45 degree counter bore i'll just do that i think that that's about right that that's always that's always um been good enough for m3 for me just to do to to not use never use an m3 allen key with the long and you're just going to rip off the screw or strip to strip the thread or something always do short end and use your fingers like that and that gives you a a good amount of torque that is not going to rip the screw apart where is the rest there is the rest oh that one's spinning pretty darn well belt right wow stick screwdriver uh thanks for the two benjamin what is the wow stick screwdriver i mean like the are you referring to like the who has those xiaomi i think sells those like the the actual electric screwdrivers are those any good actually always wondered about them but i was like well this is this is what i use for driving screws but are those electric screwdrivers any good yes they the thing is also i can drive these so fast i don't want to wait on like a slow electric screwdriver the only reason i use a power tool is because it's faster i have i thankfully i'm not that old yet i still have a functioning wrist but yeah they are great e is one two one okay tight until it goes loose then back off quarter turn okay okay how old is tom too old turning 30 next month no turning 30 this month oh god it's already june this is coming at me fast uh yeah the other thing with with drivers also is like the um i've tried the the bosch exo which is basically so this is a three cell this is a 12 volt 10.8 volt tool and the exo is a single cell tool and those just are those are so slow and boring but they are exactly that there are bit driver only tools that are made for driving small screws like this and i this is like the the smallest tool that i'm that i'm willing to use the xo is just ah not nice to use ruling's fab in the united states over lasagna building thank you for the five mr pew pew pot hole uh-huh but the um i mean the name makes sense but the the text kind of makes no sense at all it's like hi 12 volt park side i'm guessing the i mean the park side is the is a tool from lidl um that's pretty much the same as this ryubi tool i'm thinking come on using air impact would sound great oh i do have that's actually something i can try um the so impact drivers that i used to to recut the thread yeah but impact drivers um are surprisingly great like you can do you can use these surprisingly what's the word you can get a surprisingly good feel for what you're doing with impact um drivers i was i was for the longest time um i was going like well who needs an impact driver americans use them all the time but like who who really needs them i guess it's just a thing that they do but then i got when i was like wow this is actually really good um but yeah i wouldn't really want to use it for for an m3 thread that's like the one thing i'm like okay this is this is too much power tool for the job okay so this is the last one last one for the z-axis sq boxes or whatever you want to call them they are called officially the belt drive module and there we go four of them assembled that was quite a few little individual parts so it was the shaft the pulley four spacers the large pulley three bearings six uh heatset inserts which we're gonna add more to it in a second six heatset inserts and two of the printed parts it's quite a few parts for it for each of these corners wow so more heat set inserts three more in fact and they go in up here i think and these will actually so the ones here the ones that we did here they actually get pulled on they get sucked into the pipe by the screw and these will get pulled out of the part it looks like this sits flat okay and while this iron heats up to 200 degrees of course it's 200 degrees um let me just pre-position these everything smells like oil by the way everything smells like that that screw oil my fingers smell like it um the table's gonna smell like it the entire room smells like it these parts are probably gonna be covered in in oil stains once we're done i guess this might move would have been just supplying my own screws using my own screws i do have all these screws as just galvanized versions i have them at hand i have them here i didn't even need to i wouldn't even need to order them but i was i was gonna try the kit have substituted the screws because you know you don't think about it you don't think about the fact that hey the screws are probably going to be iffy or nasty to work with it's just like well screws should be like the smallest issue no gloves well working in rubber gloves or in um nitrile gloves it's just not not pleasant separate the dryers that goes there um that's not hot enough to ignite alcohol so that's good just wipe my hands down with some ethanol smells better now [Music] yes okay that that's never gonna get old oh especially when it's totally blurry let's try this one this one's nope yeah can't back out of that let me get you like a real nice close-up of these going in there we go whoa flush what is the temperature of the soldering iron it's uh 200 of course as uh recommended i'm actually doing 250 but the recommended temperature is 200. it feels like you're like it's it's something sliding in a in a well-oiled contraption or something you know that not not the screw oil or something but like a kind of a greased may a greased mate or something that's like tightly made and it's just like just slides into position that is very satisfying to do we got oh popped all of those out got some more nope well what's what's what's the c or f question what is that what is that f you're talking about press f to pay respects for people who don't know proper units or what's the what's the thing about that like pushing a marble through model clay i guess because the plastic gets it doesn't melt that's the thing about plastic plastic never really becomes a liquid it just gets softer and as you push it into plastic that is still cold and still hard that kind of provides you a bit of resistance and stops it from just sliding in okay there is that so let's give it a quick check what we are up for next so feet i'm assuming this is feed motors and then comes the sandwich so here's the plan it's 8 30 right now 8 30 p.m um i'm going to finish off the z [Music] this is called the z belt drive module i'm going to add the compressor feet are these printer parts i'm hoping there are and the motor mounts and that's going to be it for today i'm people keep asking hey like tom are you going to finish the um are you going to finish the build today i'm like it's a 25 to 30 hour build like no i'm not gonna finish this today um but yeah i will finish this today motor mounts as well as the feet and then we're going to see each other again in i think two days we'll we'll see we'll see how much recovery i need um tomorrow access misalignment what we're going to see how much recovery i'm going to need tomorrow but um yeah why not no i'm not gonna finish this today like there are some things that are unrealistic there's something that is just straight up crazy but yeah building a warren in a day especially first time building a born in a day not the smartest thing i don't think these are printed parts i don't think these compressor feet are printed parts i think these are oh yeah there they are there they are they are printed what they are printed parts but there are printed pints that voron supplied no what huh somebody help me out here no these are what the heck is what's going on so these are the parts that worn that war and not boring formbot supplied this is what they look like so they are like a semi-soft rubbery material but you see that up here that looks like it's 3d printed that looks like solid info up here that's what threw me off because it has it looks like it's exactly it looks exactly like it's a like as a 3d printed top solid info but it's not that is what threw me off so uh the rest of the part looks normal the rest of the part looks completely like a like a normal part but just that spot up there i don't know if this is like a like an insert or something because it's not it's not flush up top weird might be some sort of machining mark too but that is weird indeed so these go on to [Music] there with a with a [Music] with a plate in between and that plate i think is printed in the accent color yep here it is there's one two three four and anything else we need we need the motor these are the wrong motor mods i think so yeah these are not the ones that we need we're gonna eat different ones for that okay we'll grab those in a second once we need them so these wow that is a very red red m5 nuts also very oily what's the last amount you're looking for yeah have a cake those are updated version okay thanks for the fire fox carl i will have a cake on on you as soon as that's allowed and normal and acceptable again thank you okay so this entire plate is a trap plate for the m5 nut and then we have m3x8 which is the big bag that we have for the rails as well that attach it to this uh to this this entire assembly and then an by m5x10 buttonhead so for these four of the nuts and then a whole bunch of these screws so basically plate except accepts one of these nuts and then that goes on to here like so i'm hoping that's not going to fall out yeah but if it's if it wanted to fall out it would have to rub up against the if i pull this off it would have to rub up against the large pulley so that should be okay especially because we're going to be pulling on it and we're not going to be pushing that back in i'm hoping these screws these m5 screws are the correct length to not actually bite into that pulley that would suck that would that would be an issue that is impos or very hard to diagnose not impossible but very hard to diagnose if you had to diagnose that like oh my z-axis is binding why is my z-axis binding well because you adjusted your feet your leveling feet or your compressor feet and now you're digging into uh you're digging into your belt let's get these tight belts you need the belt you need a belt which belts do we need don't forget about the belt which belt hold on so we've got the big belt in there what belts the belt loops okay those those belts okay okay okay these belts yep belt is in there these are all all assembled and they all have the belt in them i i checked i checked okay warren design is already trolling me okay we're off to a fantastic site okay that is barely gripping that's good that's not going to be too long for this to freely turn perfect that was this one maybe get this one tight so this one doesn't have to be i mean it's a it's a rubber foot right it doesn't have to be super dupe wow that actually stands at it i did not expect it to stand by itself okay yeah i guess because you have the large pulley that's still spinning freely very freely the belt is in their foot is that that looks like a very wonky part for some reason i know it's going to attach to the frame and all but because it's just so offset okay there's one why are you slow why are you here that's the question why that i'd like to ask come on oh wrong key how do these things tighten the belt um they so right now there is no belt tightening um in this mechanism as far as i can see the so these are going to be the motor mounts i'm told and it looks like they attach to the frame directly with some m5 screws so i'm thinking just by pulling that motor away does it have a tensioner it has a tensioner okay has a tensioner built in so that's taken care of um the that tensioner piece is actually a contrast or an accent colored part as far as i know as far as i've seen that it's like a little bird mouth kind of tensioner that spins freely that's good two down it it feels like this should be sticking down it feels like this should be something that actually just suctions onto your your table but it it doesn't it's just because the center of gravity is so far towards the center of these [Music] i know can't get over that sorry sorry not sorry there you go so more like these where do we have oh yeah it's it's time for me to call it the app i was looking for the um for the place to screw this part to on the one that i had already scoot the part onto so yeah i am running out of steam today that's why i'm not doing 24-hour streams anymore i mean i did that 16-hour um what was it atom 2.0 life build i'm not doing that again that's just you're just done for the week after that um so yeah i want to build this in a semi-efficient way which is you know building as long as i can go and streaming as long as i can go and turns out that point is three hours so i don't know how many streams we're gonna have to do here but i'm i feel like we're making good progress i feel like we are making some decent progress um it's starting to feel like a printer you have a frame frames behind us i have your frame we have some z-axis drives we have a nut that we just lost and we're assembling stuff next week for another stream um not i mean i i could do like one every week and just make it a recurring theme but i kind of want to get this one done so next stream either tomorrow or day after tomorrow um this one's so yeah tomorrow or the day after tomorrow and yeah depending on on what i feel like tomorrow the thing with live streams is always yeah it's 50 everything working and take working out and all that well probably probably not 50 probably like 20 but it's it's just 80 of hey how are you feeling today are you feeling like streaming today and i can't i can't force myself to do that it needs to be i need to be in the right mood to make this a good stream right so yeah if i'm if i'm not feeling like it if i'm not feeling like i'm like i'm totally up to it that day i just i say okay let's let's do it the next day because i want these streams to be good there's no point in in like doing them a day earlier and just not doing them well you know um there's one more thing i want to build today and that is just the the were assembled today and that's just the motors the motor mounts right that should be a a quick one it is literally just the mounts onto the motors because we do have our four little piggies right there we have our four little z-axis motors are you oh put you back into hard focus we have our four little motors and i'm told i'm told these are the correct motor mounts so i'm i'm kind of tend to believe that i'm just gonna check if i have any other motor mounts that look like that that i have four i shouldn't have four of any other motor mod right because this is the there's no other place in the printer where you're going to use four identical motor mounts now this is just all extruder stuff that should be good um cable orientation that's one of the things that's always important for these um so it looks like we're going to have the cable outlets towards the left of these if you have your mounting flange towards the top let's see if there's any other nope so these are all going to be oriented in this exact way so cable towards the left so cable's going out the back here and then basically to the left to the top like that and these just all get m three by eight screws standard screw for anything in a 3d printer basically and these are going to be attached then yep that fits well the nema 17 face plate screw holes i always feel like they are too shallow i think they're like four millimeters deep um and yeah that's that's always like just so that you can't it you might run into a situation where an m3 by 8 might be too short and an m3 by 10 might be too long so that's a i wish these threads were a bit longer in the faceplates but you can't really do that without making the actual faceplate longer because these screws that attach um the bottom plate to them also screw into that same piece so if you if you make that deeper you'd give those screws less thread to bite into timothy that's a good suggestion to pull the grub screws out if i don't install the this install in the line the motors today i don't think it's going to be a big issue it would or it would be a big issue because just for everyone following i already have the thread lock in these grub screws but yeah it's probably smarter to pull them out and to reapply some thread lock tomorrow or just to pull them out and now threadlock is a is a material that sets and aerobically as far as one way so as soon as you tighten it down and you smoosh those threads into each other and they are like you lock out the um the oxygen that's when they are gonna that's when that's gonna sit down wait that's when that's when it's going to not sit down that's when that's going to set is the correct way for that audio is really low yeah so far so far it's been fine uh and i actually do have a i do have some audio levels here in obs and yes it is it is pretty low i am peaking around 10 when i'm talking a bit more loudly but typically we're at minus 50 did i say 10 minus 10 um you are peaking at like minus 15 which is low yes it is low for for youtube typically i'm at -5 but the alternative to that would be to have the compressor which kind of levels out the volume to have that set more aggressively and if i do that it's going to give you a very horribly very exhausting profile to listen to um it's it's going to be like very dense very very like like somebody's constantly shouting into your ear um kind of feeling and i feel like having i feel that having this having this compressor not as aggressively um just sounds more natural even if it is a bit low you can always turn up your speakers a bit um but you can't take out that that negative effect the compressor is going to have all right there is four stepper motors all assembled these are gonna get mounted next time that's gonna amount to a frame this is gonna mount to a frame somehow so what did we get done today um we made it through the entire intro of which parts we're using that is at the very start of the stream we assembled oh let me get this bet off before we drop it we assemble the frame the entire voron 2.4 frame with four um linear rails in the corners that sometimes also slide bed mounts are in there those are gonna need to get aligned next time that's gonna see the sandwich construction which goes i believe over those bed rail somewhere in there we also have the four z-axes where are we at the four z-axis gearboxes i'm gonna call them they're called differently officially but that's from the motorcycles here motor goes on the big belt to a smaller belt that's actually going to drive up the z-axis on the rails and we have the motor mounts attached very good all right that i think is going to be it for today i can feel myself running out of steam and i don't want to drag you along with me just limping along that's not a good idea to do like i said i will notify you all tomorrow or day after tomorrow when the next episode of the spill of this build airs and until then uh thank you all for watching thank you all for being here if you want to support the channel can you can do so on patreon or through youtube memberships thank you to everyone who tipped during this stream thank you all for just being here joining in and filling up chat with hearts and positive thoughts and motivation and yeah have a great day i will see you all sometime later goodbye [Music] you

Channel: Thomas Sanladerer

Views: 112,495

Rating: 4.887507 out of 5

Keywords: 3d printer, 3d printing, Voron, Build, 3D printer build, DIY 3d printer, Voron 2.4, Slice Engineering, Duet3d, Voron Engineering, Fermiolabs, Voron Kit, Voron 2.4 Kit, Voron kit build, voron design, voron 2, core xy, voron v2, voron v2.4 bom, voron 3d printer, voron design 2.4, voron v2.4 build, voron v2.4, voron v2 3d printer, voron v2 build, voron v2.4 bed, voron v2 kit, voron design sourcing guide, voron design afterburner, voron design 3d printer

Id: EYEi2vTkzhw

Length: 207min 17sec (12437 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 01 2021