Was live: I've finally got one - Prusa Mini unboxing and first print!

[Music] welcome to another live stream on this faithful Friday evening today we have boxes from fuchsia so yeah these just arrived today oh I got I gotta check in it and I'm not showing you shipping label see that back here we got this box but also we got we got two more boxes so the mad lads well actually my gosh is responsible for that the Madeleine's have not just shipped me a crucian mini they've also shipped me their entire crew shipment assortment so there's one and there is another so this is this is all the film intz they have all the different colors types and all of that which i will be using in the in the beginner series that i have talked about yesterday so i mean considering this one is kind of heavy I think that's the mini so yes that is what we will be digging in today I finally got one yeah again this is one that was provided for a crew sure because when they originally announced it I'm sorry when they originally announced it we didn't make a new actually did the small thing it was like up dude I'm gonna order one and by the time I realized that I should maybe order one as well in case they don't provide a review sample had already had like half yearly time so these guys if you order them right now they are shipping in September so it's a four monthly time which still is pretty rough but well here's me hoping that you know the currently time is just a result of a bit of a Cove in nineteen shutdown and things will kind of relax in the near future yeah so the the intro music if you caught that that's actually the Czech national national anthem on the version from epidemics on which I think it's actually really nice anthem so yeah let's start digging in so oh that camera is off I still need to plug that in one second there you go top camera there we go that buscemi need so obviously when you see the the hexagon tape it is a box and this kind of has been I guess the the the go to beginner pipe more or less printer with a cave do you need a you need a reliable choice one that you can't really go all that well let's do this one that you can't really go all that wrong with just grab this car it's not the cheapest so I'm I don't know what yeah so there is the spec that I got so there we are we've got the me color in orange you can choose whether you wanted an orange or in black this one has p i+ the textured one so the textured no I've actually got the ones from the from the mark three here so that's the sheet you know from the mark three that's the powder coated textured sheet the default shape that ships with the mini is this one which is just spring she spring sheet spring steel with a sticker basically on it with a sheet of adhesive and then a film of P I they both work this one is a lot more robust this one can stick a bit better in some cases but yeah it is fragile as you can see I think somebody parked a hardened in there so these are a bit more fragile than your powder coated ones Katherine Morton saying uh thought you already unbox it no no no this is my my first time actually there you go my first time actually digging into a real Buscemi so there is the option so yeah looks like there's this place for a filament box because what the other option that you can do they can choose for shipping is to include some filament and I guess that's the spot that you're going to put that they're gonna put it in by default it just ships with a sample so this is some purple and black PLA it's the galaxy black antique galaxy purple and it does have the QR code on it which is crucial a of tracking I'm shaking I'm excited about this one which is pushes way of tracking when it was made what they am it is they measured while it was manufactured but I mean with 2 x 25 grams that's not gonna that's not gonna get you very far okay let me see we get Tate May 28 May 28 this this thing was was packed so this thing is absolutely fresh off of the assembly line congratulations on getting a brand new original preshow printer pages to visit get the manual get the guides get the drivers buy more stuff and if you run into trouble there is the info add support push pin to start org wait kilograms what is that 7.6 scan me so that's the where that crucial cheat sheets regular bolts the ones that he may be using PTFE lengths oh that's all the bolts they're using on any pushing machine that's interesting so this is basically you know if you've ever worked with Lego then you know how that works you just line up your parts with that and you know exactly what you have which was a full Cartesian well technically it is a full Cartesian but you get the 3d printing handbook it Irish stickers stickers that's the that's not a mini that's the wrong machine on the stickers oh yeah and the the classic RepRap teardrop shape that's that's a nice touch open hardware logo and of course pushes face which I hear is hidden somewhere either in this boxer in the filament boxes or if I've seen people post like their their winky face cutouts so we're gonna see what we need from this so this is yeah full guide as expected then one thing I really liked about the mark I'm not sure if they did it for the mark too but for the mark 3 as well well for the mark 3 for sure this is the full test report for their testing during or after manufacture after assembly so it goes now I guess it depends on on which components you're looking at but for example the hot end there's a graph here that actually shows you how they harden performed there we go I don't think that's that's measured inside the printer but it just it's just you know a real test sheet for the components that are in this very box it's not just a generic yet quality passed it's actually measuring data for your machine so that's great you get a you get a mini sized pack of horrible important USB Drive with firmware see the handbook for instructions ok so this is a different USB Drive than to the one that he got with the so1 and I'm guessing there is some sample files on this one as well which we may be printing if there's a test file on there but we're for sure gonna be slicing our own parts so we will keep this one over here near the computer what else let's let's just start digging in here so we have two little pouches here ow Hal would hope something's funny so we get the textured sheet that's that Wow okay this looks a lot smaller in person than the dimensions kind of suggest because if you look at the dimension it's like yeah it's not that much smaller than you know the mark 3 you were a full-size machine but it's it does look tiny it does look tiny it's it's a bit of a finer texture on the pi/2 and on the mark 3s but this might just be an old sheet they may have changed their manufacturing process because I know it takes a lot to get these right let me compare two mm I guess I guess back here we have the end of 3 maybe I can give you a bit of a side we have a way to zoom in yes I do yes I do so back here is the Ender 3 and I can that's the end of 3 I can plop the bed on there and you can see it is it is a good bit smaller than the common machines I think the end of 3 actually has a like a 22 centimeter bed or something yeah it is it is small it is small it's smaller than I expected so that is the optional upgrade I think this is an extra 30 bucks if you get it and then this is the standard stock that's the public right pop I'll check that out in a second that is the standard god no no assumption no not today no no just let me stream in peace come on I'll get to that in a second um this is the standard bed that is shipping with the printer so it looks visually different to the one that I got before mark 3 it is a lot darker I think that's because this is just plain spring steel and this has a coating underneath to prevent rust and you can see this guy yeah this corner of the old I don't know if they've changed in the meantime but the old mark 3 steel sheets started to rust at some point yeah there's a bit of corrosion I mean it doesn't it doesn't impact function but it just it just doesn't look great when you have your little rust spots or corrosion spots on the corners so I'm guessing these now have a coating underneath whether it's paint or something but these should have a rust inhibitor these should have some sort of a rust inhibiting property okay let's let's get to that tip Thank You shamsher for you for the hundred bucks it's like a regular occurrence now that that this guy is throwing me off with huge tips but thank you thank you again I guess I guess you're enjoying the stream so I'll keep streaming cool but these are the two bases you get so they're both two-sided they're both dual sided this is P I on the is there a visual difference so I had a side B no so yeah P I on both sides for both of them so yeah if you wear down one side you can just flip it over and you have a completely fresh surface again so that's the mini bed I'm actually going to try if we can fit the the old Mark three beds if those just will slot onto the mini because it should be magnetic in the same way oh and we also got the yes we also got the film in Center upgrade and this is not a there's not a component that comes with the printer by default this is something that actually just it looks like Atrix just clips on so I'm assuming this side goes into how we'll see how it works yeah I'm thinking this side goes into the extruder and it's just a little switch in here can you see what it is I don't know it's got three pins so I'm thinking there is some sort of active component in there and not just a mechanical switch but yeah this is an optional upgrade I'm not sure if I'm gonna install it because a film and sensor is in in my opinion unless it's like a really basic one I think this is this is very much luxury upgrade so yeah I don't mind not having a film in sensor but it does make the one thing it does do is it lets you use that last bit of filament on a spool so yeah it just means you're not gonna have those last little 25 or 30 grams of filament left on a spool that he can't really use for anything you can just chain those up for example print and just use all use up all those little bits power cord you guys know how these look standard european boy we get a spool holder okay interesting so for bearings anti-vibration pad a bunch of screws maybe we can check this one out yeah there's that maybe we can check this one out once we've got the printer going and built that because I've got I've got plenty of spool holders behind me one no that one doesn't have one one tooth also no spool okay I got two spool holders behind me we can use those for now just to get this thing working as quickly as possible and then we have a bunch of accessories so this is the yeah spares bag as well we get a bunch of spare screws if you need to do replacements olives that's that's the pkv coupler I assume looks like it Rindge bit of Lube few zip ties so just a few things to hang on to I've not needed this one for the mark 3 I think but then again I do have like screws with nuts and stuff so if I ever do need a a fastener I just reach in to what I have at hand anyways ah isn't the film instance just me switch I guess you guys are figuring that I was how many pressure minis did I get just one just a single one I mean they are trying to get these out to customers to people who buy these and yeah they did send me to the mark 2s and two of the mark threes and those were in you but that was a kit and an assembled one so I was able to see the assembly process works and then if I screwed up which I certainly did I would have a machine that you know would work for sure where they were taking me out of the equation so yeah I guess I guess who she doesn't trust me all that much which I have no idea why that would be where's my man you later did you already throw that out okay we have a screen so this one might forget no actually goes like that so it's open on the backside that's interesting LDL motors are calm makes that screen for them that's interesting that it's that like visible without open usually manufactures aren't that keen on on people knowing where they get this stuff from but apparently true chandelle do motors are working together I think the mark three already uses lvo motors motors and maybe aluminum profiles there they make those two I don't know but apparently this entire screen assembly is sourced or manufactured by Elio motors interesting Tom fusion of SolidWorks fusion all the way because I can't afford so it works so little cable with the screen we will use that when we assemble it I'm I know I'm probably skipping the how to unbox this thing but I just want to dig in and we will work through the unboxing six in the manual in a second so yeah the yeah I guess to finish out why I've only got one minion not a kit and a fully assembled one there is only one way that these are being made and shipped and that is in this mostly assembled version I guess they've decided that supporting people through the build and and providing customer support in the end is more expensive for this machine than just assembling every single machine right off the baton and kind of again taking the customer out as a to Phileas so you come out here not as asking do I use blender for 3d modeling ever way to wrap this to not damage it there we go I dunno some basic blender stuff and I occasionally use it for like a rendering stuff but I don't use it for modeling right there is the base of the pusher mini the frame the y-axis and yeah this is as assembled as you you'll get it so basically the motor wire is tucked in down here so it's hidden away and secured with that with a little rubbish rubber probe and that's the word okay bearings are nice and lubed up the the rods are already all oily wow that is that is actually that's kind of gross there's so much Lube on these things there you go you can see how that's just being pushed around mmm look at that yeah they made sure that these things are properly oiled does feel very smooth I gotta say that much it does feel very very smooth okay that is the mostly assembled base so the interesting thing is it is still 3d printed for the most part which is something a lot of companies are moving away from but since Busha are making printers and are using the manufacturing for new printers as their well testbed for seeing whether certain improvements are good or bad or you know what the failure points are they are making a lot of the parts on their machine so the front here is the belt tensioner and idler the entire back here is also printed yeah motor mount is included and then there's just these two aluminum rails on the bottom that are just standard these are thicker ones these are 30s 30 millimeter aluminum extrusions alright next let's just take out this little box here that feels like a power supply yes meanwhile power supply so I guess this is I think I think in the interview it were flat where's it Murph was it Earth was it more I don't know I Pendley this is like the standard 3d printer power supply now 24 volt 6.6 of amps 160 Watts not sure if this is the exact same one as on the ultime Kerr but I'm pretty sure it is compatible same locking plug same power supply that has worked well for a lot of a lot of other machines yeah and that's the in tiny little box so we just have the Z and x-axis left how do I set this down so we're not finding anything oh it does stand up just stand up on its own but I'm not gonna trust that so also a lot of 3d printed parts on this guy B that's the main board down here that base is printed let me get you a better view with that camera you know that is very dark but why is that camera so dark even can't even make anything out that's pretty dark - god damn it black filament so kind of interesting organic shapes on the on the mainboard housing there so I mean that's something you can only do with really printing really or with a vacuum forming process but I don't know if that's necessary don't really see anything there maybe it's for the for the cables that are plugged in to give those a bit of extra space but that's down there and I think that's actually gonna be mostly hidden will it well there's gonna be the screen in front of it so you're not gonna be no that's the backside actually okay screen will go up here so you won't it's not front and center but interesting so yeah obviously the orange bits on here are printed as well the end of the x-axis and this x and y coupler piece with orange ptg I assume feels like it and yeah because it's just it's a cantilever design with just a single single a single z axis these are a 10 millimeter rods or something Printrbot has done that a lot and some of the earlier and and well actually very similar price point of printers just had that one z axis where it's a single lead screw and a you know with the XX is not supported on that side at all with just eight millimeter rails that can be somewhat flimsy they've got the extra 30 millimeter extrusion up here there is still going to be a I guess measurable if you really have the measuring instruments for this there is going to be a deviation in where the tool head ends up over the entire height of the printer it because these do ever so slightly Bend and it's good enough like I'm sure they could compensate for it in software if it was a real issue but yeah I will see how well it prints I'm more worried about like resonances and dynamic movements but we will see how well it does a quick look at the hot end this printer water even still around they were rebooted so print about went bankrupt last year there's a video about it on the channel and interview with Brook Drumm and they went through that whole process and are now back in action more or less so it's just Brook and I think a friend or one more person they own the rights to the name Printrbot and they are probably gonna start making printers again right so we've got the Minda sensor I guess this one is called so not the pin dies on the on the regular mark to you it as well right yeah yeah but the Minda looks very very similar and they proprietary hotend so this is a hot and that is made by pusher or by a manufacturing partner for Purusha and it's not it's not to be six that are we're seeing from the mark three this is a Teflon lined hot and actually so you can see the heat break right above the nozzle right in there you can kind of see that shimmering out and that is thicker than would you typically see on an all-metal hotend because there's a teflon tube going all the way from well from somewhere up here from someone the heat sink into the hardened means you can't really print with super high temperature materials it does make it a bit more robust like if it's not perfectly machined there you can see the aluminum heatsink that's an interesting shape but yeah I guess it's it's just cheaper for them to use this sort of a hardened I'm pretty sure you can put in yeah it's all printed so I'm pretty sure if if we want to you can still add in your own hardened but you know me I'm not really a fan of upgrading machines and kind of relying on aftermarket upgrades to even get your machine working so I will be giving this thing a good render and seeing how well it performs a question about whether it's Bowden or direct it is a Bowden system and you can see there is the Bowden tube right there extruder is sitting on here on the z block carriage which is like five different layers screw together sandwich together this is a three to one geared extruder I'm I don't know if it's a I think it's just a single gear yeah you can kind of see in there absolutely yeah so it's a three to one gear I don't think it's a dual well two sided pinche poori but it's we'll see how well it does I think in combination with a with a Teflon and hardened like you're not expecting like SuperDuper highest performance but should be adequate should we get to assembling this guy any mods around here is this a knock to a fan it's not brown and beige so I don't know but we'll see how loud it actually turns out to be I'm gonna set this down real careful for now that's good so let me dig into the manual meeting isn't based on the end of to know there I mean what are they based on I guess Printrbot really was the first one that did that cantilever design just you know rotated 90 degrees so I guess technically they're all based on those but you know going for a hey this is based on that at this point is kind of pointless so there's an old photo of the print form how it used to be I mean this is probably a year old and they've they've doubled their that's probably more than a year old by now this photo they've doubled or tripled their capacity and printers please be cautious when doing any interactions with the printer is an electrical device indoor use only place the printer on a stable surface household power don't stumble over the power cord do not disassemble the power supply don't reach inside the printer while still in operation that's interesting because this thing doesn't really have an inside and an outside do not leave the printer unattended while it's still on yeah I think that's one that almost nobody is gonna is gonna follow but just in case you do leave it unattended they told you introduction I'm I'm guessing that's the that's really the manual the handbook yeah use a manual because with the mark two and three what they did was they supplied two different booklets so they supplied the handbook which was a more generic do I have one of those here no more generic hey okay so if print doesn't stick to that if you want to load film into this it's kind of like a general generic general walk-through of the 3d printing process and then they had the actual manual for the printer which for the kit obviously was the assembly manual the full thing and then the calibration menu at the end maybe for the assemble ones they always I don't remember they just had the handbook and not the full assembly manual but with this when you just get one book glossary the parts that you have on the printer cool alright compact small smite and affordable please check future 3d out comm slash drivers for the updated version of this 3d printing hands book should we do that yeah I guess let's do that so we can kind of show you guys through and you get I mean you can treat that right Prue sure 3d dot that would dot dot com okay slash drivers so handbook that's the wrong printer that's the right print is so handbook one older three and we have it's interesting we have 1.3 if this numbering is correct 1.3 and on this one it's no version number so let's go for the updated one just to show you guys what's going on if I press that button that should get a bit bigger okay that's the parts that are on the machine do actually have a I should be able to there we go there no that doesn't work that works at least a power switch package content handling transporting the printer well this one isn't a symbol yet quick start do not wash with running water do not peel off the PII sticker well if you have to replace it II still have to do wipe the sheet with IPA as it all should work as well spool holder connect on the power supply unpacking and first start come separated into three parts please flip this handbook to get to the assembly instructions and pre-flight check oh oh oh okay okay okay okay okay that's not that's not them okay I'll take that do we have a pdf version of that yeah maybe if we if we go all the way to the bottom on this one do we get the do we get this one upside down come on let's go for me and touch screens to get the assembly manual upside down no we don't but this is sorry if this is slightly confusing to look at okay so there's that's not the assembly manual that we were looking for so I'll have a quick look if we can find a kit assembly manual okay building your mini alright so that's I guess that's the same instructions basically it looks like it's it's actually a printed version of look at that there we go what's that system called it's the one that I fixed it uses it looks like this manual is just a printed version of that which is interesting so flip your laptop over yeah I'm not really getting a good look at chat here but be right back owned by some hardcore me bag of IRA bears okay only the allen key is like required for assembly okay so we only need not in here this one be safe for later is the is no a machine here now already misplace the bag well I'll grab I will just grab another Ellen key we have there it is and the one that we need is missing okay we'll figure it out at once when we get to it use labels for reference once the labels are scaled 1 2 1 download the cheat sheet we are here for you if you need support please prepare x/z assembly and 3 by 40 and 320 and three by 1200 it's in here it is in here okay but it's just labeled as a that's the X key ok that looks like it doesn't look like a hex key to me let's go in here no SD card is shipped with a flash thumb drive yep so SD cards are a thing of the past because this printer uses a pretty much all new 32 bits control system 32 bit board 30 bit processor obviously 32 bit firmware that is developed in-house there is some what's that surface cleaner isopropyl alcohol this thing is probably worth like 10 bucks right now and a X punch your needle so hex key this apparently is all we need spares we don't need the space for now so I is this really all that we need for assembly three screws four screws so n3y 40 got that m3 by 20 that's this one and 1 in 3 by 12 we have one spare m3 by 12 note the second screw we will use that later ok so some early units might arrive with easy access in the lower position ours is in V so this is the base so always is all the way up already the list continues in the next step prepare the y-axis phone block or foam pads set okay so that is these these are mats that's some thick foam so I'm guessing these are used as feet and as rubber dampers might arrive is a third with circular foam pads with a perforated foam block yes that's we got in case your watches assembly includes a Pei XI please remove it now we do not have API sheet or a bed on here so this is just the bare bed oh by the way this is the same style very power or whatever you want to call it bed that we saw in the mark 3 with mark 52 bed hoping I'm gonna be able to get you a bit of a reflection a bit of a view of how these heating traces are laid out yeah you can you can just barely see it there so there where we at you can see that there's a discontinuity in the traces so the traces go this way that's the lines you see that's the actual copper traces that heat up and then on the outside here there's a bit of a line so the inside is a lower power heating zone and the outside is a higher power zone so basically as this bed naturally cools off more towards the edges the bed is already compensating for that so you get more heating power you get a more consistent heat or heat up from this bed they're just two zones on here as far as I can see yeah it's split down the middle into a front in the back and then there's this ring around here so it's kind of interesting pointing a thermal camera at this guy and seeing how it compares with the mark 3 and some aluminum core bits because those those are pretty good as well foam pads push the pads out of the block so let's go ahead and do that any more like a mark 42 and combine it with the magnets off to 52 yeah so you still get the you still get the calibration spots so the previous push our printers the full-size one use these spots where there's no heating traces that I picked up by the Minda probe on the tool head for calibrating how square this machine is assembled and in the mark - because it didn't have the magnetic metal flex bed that would sit over this entire I think they would also level the bed using those because it just had a p.i sheet on that on the mark 3 they still use those for squareness calibration but do the probing and the leveling on the bed itself so this is used with we're done with 16 points a 4 by 4 grid on the mark 3 I think on the new your firmware versions so yeah it's it's very similar to what's done on the mark 3 on this setup so yeah we've pushed out the the foam blocks you will need you will need five paths okay and we have one spare so let's keep that as spares please focus only on the y-axis peel the protective film from all paths lay the XY axes carefully the X DX is carefully side and the glue and the and then glue and glue the first foam pad into the groove on the bottom side of the electronics box so let's just do that step-by-step so we get electronics box that looks like that's where that needs to go so laid on the side I want a pain trip break any cables here those was printed without supports but because you get foam in there that's it uh that does lift it up quite a bit yeah there was a bit of an oozy boozy loser lose bug in there a booger that's the word that I'm looking for there was a bit of a booger in there not hoping to find any Z's in my eye my printer box and Purusha but you never know rotate the y axis so that the heat bed is facing down puts off that or cloth and need to prevent scratches and that actually is not preventing scratches on the bed that is printing scratches on your actually we do have some some poplar up here that is to prevent scratches on your table because these screws is m3 screws these are sticking out somebody was asking early on whether this was actually the type of bubble wrap that pops I'm gonna answer that real quick it's the bubble wrap pops but it's not a very satisfying pop it's more of a I don't know it pops but it's not the type of pop that's really satisfying seeing Victor three days here hello we also have a mist and chair probably a bunch of stuff trying to get this right twist it no no I'm not gonna do the e pappad routine okay glue for foam pads on the frame like in the picture mine to correct orientation so these are so yeah this one we did so orient them where the cut off sides are left right so let's go ahead and do that and they go all the way up against the printed part I'm gonna leave like a millimeter of space just in case this thing ever needs to come off and yeah that way it's not it's not gonna be glued to the is that printed with variable layer height no it just looked like it anyway I'm not gonna peel off these pads these pads or when I ever have to do not that I expect to but what what did I just what did I just do why why is there why is there sticky tape on this on this backer all right and one more what did one of these not get the full amount of sticky tape I don't okay so I guess at this point we can kind of give it a test and see how oh yeah this is this is quite rigid foam so my crew uses well at least here the first ones used a very springy rubber foot assembly this is a bit harder so we'll have to see how well this dampens vibrations this table is a hollow-core IKEA table so it does amplify any sort of vibrations you get quite a lot which is great for testing printers and seeing how well they they did the engineering when it comes to stepper motors and stuff but yeah we will see make sure the z-axis is in the upper position if not use your fingers turn the lead screw using your fingers in the lead screw and move it we don't need to do that release and remove the m3 screw on the box with the electronics okay so that what no one will undo interesting we've taken apart this printer paper stone and foam yes I'm kind of I mean I've been doing that for years I've literally got the same paper stones in my basement I've got a full kitchen countertop with those foam pads underneath and it's working great I'm kind of kind of feeling like an idiot not doing that video earlier it was just so obvious to me in a way but yeah obviously congratu fun for the or on the successful video launch okay electronics box is open remove the printed cable cover lifti electronics covers slightly before you move and completely pull it first towards the vertical release both pins from the slots okay we got it out no resistance okay keep the box open we need to connect multiple cables throughout this manual okay so this one's not going back on for now the thing is like this is this isn't this isn't standing on the box anymore so I guess I'll lay it down on the side on the back should be about worse right cool LCD cable mixed for this step please prepare the LCD take the LCD cable and push it through the hole in the box with the electronics make sure the tooth in the connector is facing up okay there is our hole we add camera why are you so dark give me give me a bit more light here one more yeah there we go make sure the tooth is facing up what make sure the tooth on the connector is facing up but that's the other way that how are you supposed to make sure the cable fold in the connector is facing up the cable fold it's facing up okay let me let me just double-check that this is actually the way that yeah yeah okay that makes sense so there's our connector that we need to get into you can see that notch on the opposite side on the inside there that's a bit of a tight space but we can plug it in right there I know you guys aren't seeing much but it's kind of tight in here all your cables are pushing against me there we go so that is plugged in right there mind the orientation of the connector there is a notch okay that that from now on proceed careful when moving the x z-axis the LCD cable is facing down and might get damaged okay in order to protect the cable please don't try any other orientation because it will complicate the assembly so this is now being routed around this box just let the wrong set of cable now so we are routing this thing around the box it comes out on this side and then it goes around like that carefully the XE assembly on the side see the picture so that's the other side don't stretch the cable Jana pulling on it now tilt the tilted back okay note that this is only a temporary solution okay so we are basically wrapping and kind of clamping this guy in here just to kind of keep it out of the way something like like this that should be good enough for now hope they they get black ribbon cable next time yeah that would be nice so I guess this is just for assembly read the following lines carefully and they put that that note in there just for me right you need to assemble the all three silver m3 and E nuts in the y-axis assembly with the correct counterpart holes in the X z-axis assembly the total of three nuts the first the longest on the right will be used to connect both parts together using m3 at 42 second the second longest will also used to join parts a third the top of the extrusion not visible and we'll do that later okay which will be in direct contact with the aluminum extrusions the first nut fits inside the clamp okay so in the blue area that blue area there that's what we're gonna line up one of these we're calling them m3 and II nuts which is yeah these guys these non-removable t-slot nuts that's these two and then there's one more down here and this is actually what I heard when I had first picked up this box and I was like time there's something rattling in there it does sound good and hoping it's not broken I think these are the ones that are hurting there okay prepare the y-axes assembly move it all the way back to the right oh I guess if you if you want to look at that head it that way place the right m3 in it approximately in the middle of the extrusion length that's not and then it's not under the heat bed structure okay so there I guess and then this one goes somewhere roughly there push both parts together and try fitting the clamp the xes and weight directly on the m3 and II nuts which we have moved to the center of the extrusion is the 40 scoop to connect both parts in case you can't reach the thread of the nut wiggle this screw do not tighten the screw fully yet okay okay so we're just doing the m3y 44 now so these this is gonna be horrible to show on camera because the like you guys are probably gonna be in the exact spot that I want to be unless ya there's no way you seeing what I'm doing here but basically there's the nuts and I'm looking at the two actually I can show you what I'm doing here I'm this thing here this over here that that blue mark thing that's what I'm seeing from the top and I can line this up visually there we go that snapped into place hello where's my screw there it is there's my screw there's my key hole like grabbing yeah something's grabbing yeah yeah yeah that has grabbed onto the threat that's nice okay so these should be somewhat connected now yeah very good so now I'm just hoping I don't have the other not too far in profile we will see so we did that don't tighten the screw fool yet okay it's still kind of loose take the second one and push it all the way it's okay so we should have left this one all the way to the front of the printer you see maybe it's still slides out yet still slides so now we can just push this into place and it stops okay whoo I'm kind of getting sweaty here and this is the n3 wet 20 yes they're going that should actually because the nut is now and wash it looks weird because that nut is now in the right spot that should grab doesn't why are you not grabbing why are you not grabbing all right one one second here I am King I'm getting way too sweaty here why do I not have my oh no no there it is top there you have to take a little sweater real quick here so yeah that nut is a bit hard to actually grab onto though what's hoping it would be somewhat easy because it's just you slide it into place perfectly don't don't get excited there so somehow in theory this should lock on maybe if I laid on the side you know it's gonna pop enough just in the right space just in the right spot no come on this slide out no there's not slam that was the other one so I'm gonna try and get the screw out again and see if we can reposition it somehow and I can I can hear it doing something against that that nothing there Mika's not switch back oh thanks for the hint I know this isn't how he's supposed to lay this machine down but there we go I'm being careful right so that's this oh that is that is rather tight okay so I'm just seeing if this screw actually just goes into the nuts and it's yeah it looks like there was a bit of a burr on the nut because now it's it's going smoothly I'm like just initially it was it was a bit tight to get in so there is a bit of a bevel on this guy so theoretically the screws should find its place there we go there we go now it's grabbing okay who don't tighten the screw fully yet yeah that's ptg now take the m3 and E nut in the upper part of the extrusion and slide it under the steel plate okay that makes sense so we've got we're yet there you've got this nut right there and this is just gonna slide under this plate there we go and that's lined up and we're gonna graph I think one of the yes m3 by 12 just double-checking I'd wrap that here and just screw it in if you would grab there we go thanks for the tip here to take ID no they did not they did not reinstate my affiliate account I had to sign up and reapply for an entirely new account which means all the old links that weren't done through genius became obsolete I lost a bit over a month of affiliate earnings on amazon.com and yeah I had to spend like a week or two just replacing old links that were now obsolete and you know just pointing to Amazon without actually being afeared link so yeah apparently Amazon was doing a bit of a spring cleaning I mean I was hearing stories like that where just people's accounts were just suspended for reasons and yeah kind of the same for me where it was like oh yeah it was fine for like four years and all the sudden it's like now well you violated our Terms so we're just gonna we're just gonna take a thousand five hundred bucks or something from you and have you replaced all your links and you know just just just you know saves us some money you'll come back you'll come back to us yeah anyways yeah thankfully this printer it's this printer on Amazon I I don't think it is no I hope it isn't in this step we'll move the entire x z-axis avoid pushing so we're not don't tighten the screw fully it okay so we're not tightened down yet you'll move the entire X z-axis avoid pushing grinding it against the aluminum extrusion or you might scratch and leave a small gap while moving the parts whew rotate the back of the printer towards you and push the heat bit all the way to the front where did I grab this there push it all the way to the front hold the yxs assembly and move the x/z assembly to the back so hold this I'm guessing I'm gonna lift this up slightly ha and we should be should be in place this electronics box is kind of sticking off in a weird angle so you can see that there's a maybe you cannot but right there I'm seeing a bit of a gap maybe maybe that top camera can can see that no but it's just it's just the geometry of that box wait Danny what you hold alt on the live chat Wow got them in YouTube why why didn't nobody tell us that okay there is a notch which indicates the correct mutual position of both parts okay where we at where is that not what let's see look Oh I was sliding it the wrong way okay that's why that box was looking weird I've actually got to slide it to the front there we go and now there is that not move the EXCI assembly to the back yeah that's weird I guess I guess front back is is backwards so I was moving the heat bed to the front and then I gotta move the XC assembly to the back but on the printer from is that and back is that so front and back is the same okay there's a little notch right there you can that's gonna be a horrible to show okay basically there's a yeah there's a notch that just slots against it the the front piece of the blower frame so all good all good once the parts are aligned tighten all screws in this particular order okay so first the aluminum profile then the long 40 and then the 20 so okay first whoo that's just that barely were perfectly clears cool so should I worry about aligning this at all in like you know that this thing is actually straight up how much torque doesn't say I will use yeah that's that's enough that's enough for an m3 and then the 40 long guy that's tightening against plastic so you don't want to over tighten those and then this one is also yeah you can hear the PDG squeaking it's also tightening against plastic so you don't want to give it a lot of torque either so now this thing should be rigid there we go and thank you for the $2.99 tip tripods garage I will grab a coffee or a tea I'm gonna drink both but you see I drink more tea and coffee I'll grab one next time I get a chance thank you arrange the Bears come off okay leave leave the others okay but because we are following instructions when you can for dieter's is I feel quite a lot against plastic writeable okay hey guys want to hear me chew for five minutes note there is a protective film keep it on until the end to prevent scratches mm I broke the rules no I just I just didn't follow the mango you so we can see there's a bit of ribbing in here which is probably hard to make out there there's like little subtle notches oh hold on what was I meeting myself oh I I saw I'm sorry I activated the wrong Mike that's my bad that's on me so we can lay this thing on the side it is I mean this is not my preferred orientation for this printer because it's all going through the linear bearings and stuff holes on the y-axis but yeah this is where the LCD goes there's two nubs on this guy and basically yeah the screen clicks into position in a few two different orientations so I will just screw them together and I guess there's already a nut embedded in this printed part yep it's grabbing so you can it's not spring-loaded that would have been nice if there was like a spring washer or something in here but instead you be actually lock it in place and I guess you can say you can still force it but I feel like that's yeah well you can't so force it okay you don't need a spring washer interesting we'll leave it at that roughly that should give you guys a good angle to have a look at the screen later on hmm all right and there was a 50 Czech crowns tip from Dominick thank you for all you taught me in 17 and a whole lot of a lot of things about 3d printing things to UM already have a job preparing 3d printers fan tastic helping people get jobs I didn't know I did that thanks for the tip thanks for being it thanks for joining in I wonder what would I mean that that's check rounds that I mean how many check 3d printing companies are there not that many are there carefully remove the free end of the LCD cable from the box with the electronics and connected to the board on the LCD mind the correct orientation okay I mean you can force it in but you probably should so this just release you can I mean the only real orientation that we can do is underneath like this does this have a wire manage option right okay so insert the cable in the extrusion carefully bend it into two halves along its length okay so we first plug it in we make sure we have the orientation correct and we're not twisting it I'm guessing like this then there we go and then this goes over here this folds into two halves okay okay I see where we go in and then we just cram it in so like like that I mean doesn't strike me as particularly elegant okay I mean it's not a moving connection or anything it won't have to yeah won't have to actually go in and out there I'm gonna put some tape over that because I can't really stand that open look actually that's the electrical tape just to cover that up and make sure it's not it's not coming out flush cutters I guess those work just one quick piece of tape I think it's like that and by the way welcome David Underwood as a Youtube member great to have your long ride for the stream for the channel hi okay nobody's gonna see that nobody's nobody's seeing that all right okay so that is connected that is arranged I wish the cable was a bit longer because what we just did and just a centimeter more that would it be nice but yeah connect the y-axis cables turn the printer back on its feet we already did that and rotate the back of the printer towards you so back in front I mean it's it's pretty clear that now with the screen on there it is that's the front turning the what and rotate the back of the printer towards you okay take the motor cable labeled why it's in here push it through the hole through the hole through the hole okay see that hole okay so that's just going underneath the frame I'll take this rubber band off does this machine get the new dimmable LCD screen we will see no I'll get a try and we will dig through the mini to see if there is any option like that that's just coming out like that there's no no cut out or no wire right there and then there's a little hole on the enclosure to the suit lets you poke it through like that I guess that's that's pretty neatly sorted and then there's really only one open connector on this guy yeah that's up there there's the buddy board oh that's that's not actually the connector you're supposed to plug it in it's over here okay okay so 4 pin connector 4 pin receptacle get a bit of a click there we go all good but I'm envying it ok that's a that's a weird way to pronounce that yeah well welcome aboard to the 3d printing madness I mean you're gonna learn something you're gonna learn some things even so glad to have you along thanks for the tip and also thank you Peter for the tip and the I guess that's a youtube animation that he can do ok Oh interesting interesting I've not seen that one so we've got the so that you've got the y-axis connected which means at this point we should not be jerking this this medicine we quickly I mean we can still no hold on now we've got that we've got the motor connected not the pad yet so yeah if you move this we might run into issues with the stepper drivers later on so we leave it there take the cable bundles from the heated from the heat bit and guide it into the box from the top there's no dedicated hole there's no dedicated hole so you can't you can't oh so there's just a just a kind of so no wrong holes on this one take the cable bundle connect the individual cables to the board thermistor and heat bed heater gently push the cables inside the box in position to wrap near the top left corner where most of the cables enter the box right what push the cables inside and position the wrap near the top where's top and where's left on this thing so I guess top and left so that's but that's printer right so hold on so this goes on like that which means this connects well this connects over here let's just plug it in first and see how we can wire management why am i how we can wire management how we can wire manage this thing in a second so these have a bit of a keying here so there's this little notch right there and that really indicates where you need to connect it and then there's the clip that's secures it on the other side so to take this out he actually have to press down on this so during printing during using during shipping these connectors have absolutely no chance of coming out on their own so how exactly are we supposed to wire management help I that's apparently I can say wire management what okay okay so I guess like that just loop it around like this have one too bad that is [Music] that looks that looks alright the cover has three little slots in the corner for three different bundles to fit through because I'm guessing that's this corner right there because that there are no other openings do a zip tie this down somehow we will see in a minute so position it like that okay I mean but that's that's basically how we how we did it already filament sensor is that really just plug in guys film in sensor no good them up I'll try that is first configuration involved I thought like this would just be but if it's really just plug it in and it works yes there's one yes just be plug it in yes yes yes yes okay yes yes you got me convinced so film and sensor so I'm guessing that c3 pin that's that's open here then yes so these are key again so these connectors can have their in this little lows here you can see it's sticking up you can barely see it sticking up but up here there's this little nose and that can be in different positions and that exists so that you can't plug in the wrong connector into the wrong receptacle so even if you have several three pin connectors of the same style that nose can be in different spots and you know that that'll prevent you from actually inserting it into the wrong one guessing that's all this is right there is the filament in feed tube that goes in there I'll forward you push it in I guess until it's snug and there we go there's the is that is that the entirety of the installation nice then you know please please don't repeat yourself it sounds like you're stuttering okay so that is connected that pushes in tighten the screw gently and this isn't going to slide off you can tighten this one if you need to slightly through the filament sensor to make sure there is no deformation so let's use these two filaments do not eat no this one does not say it says do not eat we're looking forward for you so forward to snack so filament filament goes into the sensor this cutoff this is all this filament end is already cut off at there we go at 45 degrees that's a really nice shot of the galaxy black so this there we go he's going in smoothly I'll say so that's I guess that's all we're gonna use this film in for yeah we've got I mean we've got the extra boxes of filament it's like literally every single type of film and pusher mates in there so if we need more we got it we got it fully pushed onto the PTFE connected we did that so that was the 3-pin connector arranged it so it all goes out that back cover covering the electronics so screw it back on what [Music] thanks for the five years later man thanks thanks for the left arrange the cables extruder bundle heat that bundle film and sensor cable optional so they have an order on the cover okay so heat bet goes towards the inside of the printer and the sensor goes towards the outside so basically we're doing this and then this goes underneath here and then like this but it's a two-step process so you first put on the cover the Bracey stylee you know there there there okay this one goes here that goes there no is the nut still in there yes it is I can see it no we need the cover there's our cover and that should lock all the cable bundles in place gotta say this is a bit fiddly like it feels very much like and like an afterthought having this sort of killer management on there but you got it on this thing is in place so this now just goes in here if I can find the scroll notes for the back okay thankfully once that's all in and screwed down we're not gonna have to get in there anymore it max I mean I don't know if you if you put it together before or if you've done it on a live stream with I don't know how many people watching and you know trying to show stuff to a camera and try to pay attention to chat and all that the thing is you know what an electrical engineer does is usually you know not assemblies like that it's the planning that goes into that huh anyways that's I mean that's assembled it's starting to look like a printer I'm missing the bed we've got film and sensor we've got these z-axis cabling done that bad that this rap is actually pretty interesting because it's on the on the older on the Mark threes and stuff they had just mesh leaving but this rap actually has it almost feels like it has a padding to it it's almost like the automotive rap that he'd find in your any wire harnesses and there is yeah it is quite substantial so I don't know how much support this actually gives to the wars in the is there a piece of filament in here no there's not so there's no film and actually to steal this cable and to give it a constant bending radius I guess the Brad helps with that we have to see how this how this holds up it's probably fireproof I don't know maybe it feels like it's it's like a hardened nylon mesh may have some fire proofing additives in it tighten the second cover did that horrible time spool holder we are skipping that and we might do it once we're up and running and our printing because again we've got enough spool holders here already remove the protective film from the display connect the power supply place the P I she'd down double check and you're done Minda sensor height is now set from the factory no need to adjust it optimal height is point eight to one millimeter between the nozzle tip and the sensor okay that is an animated warning sign okay now please read the handbook if you encounter any problems okay we're done I guess if you move on here most common hardware issues well we're not planning on having issues so let's skip that what used to be something for the mark three is filming sensor is twisted it's fine what used to be something to worry about for the mark three is the different thickness in P eyeshades between the sticker version and the coda version so because the sensor is only sensing has gonna be so hard to show off maybe maybe so this one is the sticker version and this one over here is the coded version you can see the thickness is way way different but the steel core is the same thickness so basically the P I on this one with the adhesive layer is just thicker than the coded version so because the sensor is just sensing that steel core you're actually laws and distance to the surface here would be different I wonder if the mini actually asks you hey are you using a sticker version or a coded version and adjust the offset accordingly I think in the mark three you can store different beds and calibrate the offset for each one each one individually I wonder if they if they improved on that so yeah we need to get a pee ice sheet on here that's why I was grabbing these I'm just gonna start with the coated one and just like on the mark three there are two screws poking out back here you slide this against these two plop it down and it is in place and it's actually a bit it's actually a bit bigger than the bed that's interesting so that's in place we have a peel to do very very important I need to get my mic in here real close once they can grab this corner before we get that funny perfect you can store 500 feet okay and we need to park in a power supply so actually is there no the sl1 has it built in and why it is I think it is the same suppliers from the CW one that we used yesterday that's still the power supply from the CW one that's plugged in and it looks to be the exact same one okay I will still use the one that's included with a mini just in case yeah it looks like they are you know this power supply works for us and they're just reusing what they what they know works and it's I guess it's a it's a good sized power supply for that it is supplying the heated bed and that's not okay that's the right way up supplying the heat of bed and the rest of the machine you're supposed to be off there we go it's flying the heated bed so it does need to provide some power but since it is a 160 watt unit and this heated bed isn't all that big and coming not all that powerful should be adequate plus it's a it's a mean little unit so it's a it's a fairly high quality one ah what I'm missing Jeff why doesn't it just measure the different the difference in thickness when bed leveling it can't it's not like it has no way of detecting the plastic coating it has no way of detecting that film because the sensor again only picks up the steel underneath so we are done here let's power you on bootloader 1.0 0.0 Marland oh that was a Marlin logo so this is my Island based interesting I thought this was a completely proprietary inand Prussia only there you go that's better screen is the screen is alright like viewing angles are are okay they're not great would you like to continue what's so I guess orange is selected and blue is not I'll say where'd you selected okay well font choice the status bar is at the bottom of the screen it contains information about nozzle time heat bed temp okay so that's like the Start menu is something where the dock or whatever z-axis and the heat bed is already heating up why are you heating up he said to 35 degrees Celsius okay so I guess it's running it's running a check check in the background I assume selected film int so you select PLA or PGA and stuff press next to run the self-test so that's the yes that was the hot end cooling that was the hot end cooling fan at the second one was the part cooling fan the hot end cooling fan is a bit noisy when it's spinning at full blast it is by no means as quiet as something like to knock to acceptance on the mark 3 pie cooling fan though is is not allowed at least you know what I just heard and step annoys is it's good like it sounds very smooth you can hear some hum some vibration it is not totally silent and there's some oh that just got caught shouldn't get kept the caught there yeah there's a bit of hum there it's not entirely silent we'll have to see how loud it actually is during use they use the motion part of Marlin and put their menu on top ok that that makes sense so it is using and stop less homing I'm not seeing any and stops here is it also using n sub less homing for the z-axis for the top because it did it looks like it just ran into something and stops so yeah on the on the mark 3 they actually said hey we don't have the pursuit I shouldn't have talked at that screen up that far cables coming out they said for the z-axis we don't have the precision to home it without actually having some sort of a making of a probe on there so they added that probe no I can smell the hotend so 280 degrees holy traveling that's crazy 280 degrees for a Teflon line hardened to 80 to 80 oh ok it doesn't actually heat ok ok ok he can t wear it there for a second was that like an attempt to to burn up the PTFE and assassinate me and you know with a printer with a custom printer firmware ya know dancy is asking upper a kid from a mark to improve mini dad I mean the mark 2 is still a fantastic machine I'd stick with that I still I still like that machine I would stick with mark 2 if you already have it minis we'll see how good the mini is but the mini is probably a very nice machine to but if you have a mark to like just stick with that all tests finish successfully done first layer calibration so we need to load some film and so it's now preparing for that already at 215 degrees [Music] Wow filming are we gonna use show me actually I mean if we are going to use the swole Pikachu that we printed yesterday actually the print will be done i reprinted that let's actually use a yellow filament so we've got extruder PLA now we're gonna load in here no it does smell slightly burnt but that's I guess that that camera is also cooking but that is I guess normal for a brand new hardened so filament is all the way in we're gonna go ahead and load so oh you can now it's 264 a say Wow so first layer apparently it is now letting you do it with PLA PGA si and flex with Flex Wow on the mark 3 was like hate we have PLA loaded okay so grabbing whoa whoa okay that sounds mean always gonna say yeah the mark three you can only do the calibration with PLA here apparently you can do it with pkg it's a flex and PLA and you get to choose her jeans oh it's it's already purged so it's true really solid color is correct it does smell it's like it does smell it does smell burnt but that's just new heart and smell now let's calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print sheet so I'm guessing at this point it should ask me what sort of schita have installed check the pictures in the head book for reference okay so we're basically getting to do a yeah this is just the classic calibration I guess is it worth the price I don't know yet this is not a full review this is just a unboxing I mean literally says entitle to give an opinion on whether it's worth your money I need to use this printer for a bit and not just load filament into it okay so that's the live link that looks like it's using a four by four grid as well I can see all the screen oh they're better why don't he do bet there he dependents at 60 degrees right there you can see 60 degrees well there so that's the prime line I assume yes that is a bit high you can see it's not sticking down all too well yet so we need a bit of squeezer and this is real-time adjustment if you have a firmware that has a lot of buffering and you do it through a computer interface it would have to complete those moves first before you'd see anything but because this is part of the firmware it can just instantly override your height and you can you can kind of hear the z-axis stepper motor clicking down see and now we're getting to a height that looks good I will show you what that looks like in a second yeah that looks good maybe a bit more yeah pick up so I'll take off I'll take up the sheet in a second and show you what that looks like and that is looking just about perfect is it quieter than mark 3s so from what I'm hearing right now assuming that this is like regular printing noise it is as quiet as the mark 3s or the mark 3 in silent mode however the hot and cooling fan is whiny like you can you can definitely hear that spinning so I mean it's not it's not loud it is still a very very quiet printer but yeah these salad fans to make a bit of a difference so if I grab please hot and if you would just move out of the way there we go so what we did was basically you can see it started out up here that's what it did first and this is just completely loose and then as we tweaked the nozzle down we're starting to see the sticking a bit better and this corner is almost perfectly stuck down already and here it's it's at a good height where it is sticking and you can see it getting squeezed down instead of laying on top like a spaghetti so the one that's loose on top here that's the one from further up where it was not calibrating it and then you know down here this is a good height and you can see this block that is printing wow this is a nice in the official manual but there should be no gaps there's a bit of a gap at the bottom and they should also know there should not be any voce knowing where the edges of the individual traces stick up so I'm gonna call that good we could maybe go down a bit further this texture cheat is very nice for this sort of stuff because it really grips onto your your filament but I'm gonna call that good and printable does this bed scratch easily peter is asking it does not so this is a powder coat of Pei and this is a very very robust surface of course if you take a if you take a knife to it and try to scratch it and score it it will scratch but in general it is pretty robust like he can you can jam your nozzle into it but you shouldn't drag the nozzle across it that might leave a mark do you want to repeat the last step and readjust the distance between nozzle and heat bed no we are done calibration successful happy printing alrighty then what kind of ambient temp for the room well I'm nice and warm so it's probably like 21 22 degrees in here so that's just regular ambient temperature so for PLA that doesn't really matter for ptg you probably shouldn't print it in a totally cold room and for a a put the print in a box and just eliminate any drafts and kind of keep it at a constant at least like 30 degrees Celsius for the ambient temperature did I select the bed tub I did not see where I would select a bed tub so let's see what we can find here in the menu no use be plugged in so we can't even select that preheat filament calibration settings factory set firmware update filament sensor is on guess the detected time out on land setting so this thing has a yeah this thing has an Ethernet port did I have Wi-Fi I think I asked that before but it doesn't look like it safe Crashdown time on ok we'll just leave it at that info what's in here system info CPU load ok version info firmware 405 bootloader 1 and buddy board version 102 all right so I'm guessing this is it I'm not I'm not seeing the option way to choose which bed we're using but yeah what's the max print volume it's an 18 centimeter cube so just slightly smaller than most printers guessing at this point let's go ahead and then slice something right Wi-Fi Wi-Fi can't be added with a chip yeah so let me show you sure 3d dot-com not drivers will be we'll be looking at drivers in a second our 3d printers we've got the mini you've got the mini so it's 380 euros plus the upgrade so this one is on let me just spec out what we have we have the both we have the filmin sensor and we have no bundles so it's four hundred and thirty bucks plus shipping I think but because this is shipped from Prague from inside the Czech rip from inside the EU for me there's no VAT or no no imports or extra vats included that is the price including that that I'll pay if I wait to buy one printing area 18 18 18 centimeters ethernet optional future ESP Wi-Fi upgrade yeah that's that's the image I saw with the ESP module in there but that it's just oh there's my video down there and Jose and Jojo Jose yeah cool safety features three thermistors three thermistors fan rpm monitoring high quality power supply and self-diagnostics were three thermoses in this guy one two oh and I guess on the bed in the connector area just to make sure that no wiring is draining down so cool try to warn them try to one I'm hoping for Benjy what are we you can't choose beds yes okay thank you cool so no confusion there from this point out I'm just gonna forego any manual that is included because I feel like I know how to print on a Porsche so first thing we're going to do we've got crucial slicer installed but this is an old version so let's grab the newest one is this gonna be yeah no this is gonna be English that's fine drivers and software I did kind of complain about having to sign in for the sheet box download yesterday with the Mars probe because that's a that's a separate company from elgu where she tea box provides the software and then you download it and select the elgu profile from a bunch of you know a bunch of available ones with pretty sure they are providing the drivers in that package as well because it's them who's developing that on you know on the basis of an improved slic3r version and obviously firmware marlin all that but they are providing the software and a optimized set of profiles that goes along with it the time is still an eternity Li time is still four months yes obviously production was a bit slower during the Cova 19 shut down and apparently demand was also a bit higher during Kobe 19 I've also seen that on my videos where people were watching them a lot more than you know before the lakh times were enacted so yeah I mean I'm pretty sure that they're working as hard as they can on getting these out under safe production conditions but yeah that just means Li times are still kind of crazy but I mean that that they are gonna stay crazy so better order now if you want to get it this year test objects we don't need Windows x we also don't even not plugging it in install the soft it does have an update err I just want to make sure we've got that out of the way because this is what he would do if you were to install this thing from scratch are they open source yet so let me see three model somebody can probably answer that I mean the Mini is supposed to be open source guys it's precisely using the printer it was supposed to be open sourced once it's released let's just see pardon professor Marlin from right so one there is the buddy board original push a mini so there is the hardware step files from mechanical and printed parts and STL for the printable ones so that's out there I'm not sure if there's a bomb or something available but there are the sources for the heat bed including the PCB layout infrared sensor which is the film and sensor I assume so yeah the parts are there you can build one another in under four months yeah it's I mean the proprietary price that you're gonna have to get is I guess some sort of a hardened though I'm sure you can adapt pretty much anything there because the mountain looks fairly simple actually screen board and that's it like everything else looks to be pretty stamped hearts yeah and to heat a bit but you can get small heat it that's like that so yeah let's grab a file and sly something you opening yes you are configuration update available yes so we're gonna hop into the configuration wizard so a them move that over here maybe so it's not being covered up next we have the mini with the stock point for nozzle that's it I'm gonna keeping the why can't you touch scroll in here we're keeping the configuration for the other princess that we have set up we don't need an ISO on for now you can actually grab that's interesting you can grab Cree ality in the three profiles don't need those for now little spot don't need a custom profile filaments yeah yeah cool check for updates update automatically yes few moto we're going for expert mode for sure and now we have the original push a mini that we can just select and we've got PLA let's just go for generic PLA we're doing okay so it doesn't have the 0.3 millimeter profile where the SuperDraft profile I think it's point three on the mark three yeah it's still got all these super fine ones 0.15 quality that looks good let's grab our Pikachu sure we do the Pikachu yeah you're you're too big you're definitely too big look at that I can I can rotate isn't that magical when you can when you can just grab a model and rotate it like let me let me demonstrate you can just rotate apart you can just do that or we can do it with a touchpad as well that's I mean that's how it's supposed to be right you can we can scroll in and out in there yeah I can even two finger and if you want to move something you just use the move tool and you move it oh yeah you have to grab the handle so I mean that that's why I was complaining about a cheat sheet to box yesterday it's just it's just unnecessary this unnecessarily complex do we really need to do everything on apprentice so even if you scale you down to like 25% which might be a bit small like 35 let's try that fool how long are you gonna take an hour we live in minutes that's not too bad I mean that is going to push it over that tail is gonna be tasty that tail is just like to infill lines what if we enable supports let me see how long this is going to take for the bench II I we've done so many Benji's oh that is a lot of supports that's two hours no that's that's too much previous license now does do custom support so you can and create supports just in the spots you want but yeah this thing is not printable without supports unfortunately suggestions for printable parts baisemeaux succeed sports are yeah they again they do have it might be in the beta version though but they do have that option where just click the model and it add supports their cube no we're not what sorry we're not printing cubes no surprise Pikachu what is Wednesday what is he colleague cat let me let me Google ID and privateer real quick calibration cat well that's just a that's just a calibration cube with extra steps 20 mm 5 most I mentioned Island aren't even something you should be calibrating for so yeah only 45 I would rather I would rather do a bench e than that Oh God dad is going crazy tape frog frog frog [Music] baby Yoda I've seen the baby Yoda let's explore together so let's install let's check out pressure printers there you go and go to lays to click the type in the org let's do popular we could do a quick face shield I'm not sure if the Mini is big enough for that there is the boulders so that's a nice shelf I wonder who designed that the pug there's the Frog you know what let's do frog let's sue nice yellow frog and because that's only using five grams I think I'm actually gonna download a downward I'm gonna download the file for sure but I think I'm actually gonna grab wait no I want the STL I want the STL man I don't want a G code thankfully you are working again oh it's tree frog right tree frog you don't oh yeah you are the original okay where'd things Falls Thingiverse is weird I was wondering why that were that if I was so big but apparently the sto is just as big there we go we are at print time oh there we go our in ten minutes so this is this should be nice and challenging so let's grab our USB Drive so apparently there's a there's an issue going around with lights it's like and occasionally something's gonna happen well it's to expert to stick where there's issues with USB drives with the mini let's see if you run into that and if you do so I click the export here by the way and if we do we know what to look for but my pen realistic has been chosen specifically for that frog is on the stick pre-compiled I want to slice my own stuff I am NOT a fan of doing pre-compiled to create sliced and pre-vetted files oh okay it all detected that now this is not a touchscreen this is just the click wheel screen I I mean I don't mind either one like this this is very noticeable clicks on the wheel so if this menu is well designed that's gonna have to be something that I figure out while actually using this machine I think having a click wheel can be just as efficient if not more efficient than having a touchscreen because for example for setting temperatures or for moving axes you can just keep scrolling and increase a number and D squeeze a number instead of having to click you know plus 10 plus 10 plus 10 plus 10 plus 10 raise the heart and the heart is raised there is enough of a gap down there right um cool so we will just wait for this to unload and is it preheat oh it is also preheating the bed that is interesting so it's automatically set to bed 260 degrees I'm guessing it's just I I am gonna say that is pretty smart because when he when he change filament when you unload filament normally you are you're gonna print something you're preparing for a print so it it just automatically also preheated the bed so when ya when you are actually starting a print it's gonna be there faster that's nice so I want to try this stuff this is the galaxy purple I think that's gonna make for a very nice tree frog so filament goes in and we go load we've got PLA and I just keep pushing no good press continue pushing and it's grabbed and it's done cool purging so I guess we got to purge some more we've got it coming out there so it's purging the yellow out and we get the purple we got the purple color is correct yes we load of purple filament we're getting purple filament it would be weird if we got a different color filling okay so we got all that done we print that's our tree frog get a preview image that's nice I guess if I slightly angle that screen differently you see a bit of a clearer picture extruder cooling what why are you going to 170 why are you going to 170 it sound like a heat upcycle way it heats the the beds to sixty first and only then heats the hot end all the way I'll tell you what are you what do you the hot end fix asked described by many users we'll just see what happens I mean we're following instructions for once so let's try and follow whatever official instructions we're getting let me Google that fix in the meantime you know if it reads itself then crucial mini hardened rays fix I'm the extrusion and clogging remove the PTFE that's a brand-new printer this should be cap okay okay I so apparently raise the hardened as in it's not in the heatsink at the correct height but again if this is already on the wiki then or in the common issues then I assume a Franklin that was made literally yesterday I looked a little production day yesterday May 28th will assume that this was made to you know all the current fixes and updates that were discovered all righty then we're printing and we got little ladies that are coming up perfectly the height is looking good and it is actually it is very nice and quiet I am liking that yeah it's just that you can hear the fan okay we done we done we are done you got it working me probing temp yeah so on the mark now that's a good point on the mine I'll leave you on that screen you can you can see him in the in the corner well here on the mark to mark three or on the older printers that have this sort of a probing setup you would see like just little tiny bits of filament being deposited where it probe I never thought it would be it was much of an issue it was just like hey you basically you blow on the bed and those are gone but I guess I guess it's it's little tiny improvement right so why would someone get a mini it's just you know out of the box if if it's if you just look at specs there's no reason to get one like you can get a much larger printer than and this for 400 bucks it's it's the fact that he can use it without any mods that there's I don't well I have to use it to really figure out what makes this machine special on the same token you could say hey why would why would anyone spend 800 bucks or a thousand bucks for mark 3 if you just look at its specs and the size so far my experience with pooja has manufacturing have been fantastic their machines have been super reliable for me whenever I need to print something I go for the mark 3 and to me this is like a smaller version of that of that experience where it's you know a something you can just come back to and it's gonna print for you so I will have to use this thing for a while to you know really see what makes this special what makes a difference what makes a difference to other machines in their price range and maybe bigger may have more features but yeah I I feel like I mean I feel like we should know what they doing kind of Lydian we'll have to we will have to see what makes this thing special so far it's been I mean just the experience has been flawless for me so far you know take it out of a box follow the manual kind of crammed in some words that but I think that was the hardest spot or the hardest thing to do crammed in some wires but other than that this is a let me level the camera that is that is really know I'm you know this has been a no mods no issues you know everything provided out of the box kind of situation for me and it's printing and we'll we'll see how well it prints once this thing is done so yeah left blank is actually is asking could that fan be swapped out before building for a Noctua I mean you can still swap it out it's four screws on there and that should make this thing a bit more quiet since it is a Teflon lined harder that don't think you need all that much cooling for it to work so I'm pretty sure you could just drop in a 40 40 40 yeah that's a 40 millimeter fan you could just drop in a 40 millimeter doctor and yeah that should be a lot quieter yes this is team C 2209 you have to specify still put in the slicer so you can change it in the you cannot change it while you're printing fluor Factor live adjust change filament no he can change filament but he can't change it while you're printing info no info I guess messages is just a log of what's happening alright now why fight has Ethernet though yes but the web interface at least the web interface that I've seen on the so1 is I mean fairly web interface at all so I wouldn't buy it for that yeah Wi-Fi is coming as an upgrade at some point maybe me doesn't have cell phone ok so they add that that makes it you know I'm not seeing if I go into settings here on the on the slicer printer settings I am not finding anything that would specify sound with stealth mode versus power mode or just a regular operation mode on these Tremec drivers again it is it is already a lot quieter than a printer using either a set up with motors and drivers that don't work with each other or run into the wrong voltage or anything it is noticeable it is noticeably printing it's not I'm gonna go back on what I said earlier where it's not as wet where I said it would be quieter than the mic 3 I think it is about in that same range it's probably as loud as the mark 3 yeah is the fan made by Delta I don't know the the sticker for the hot end cooling fan is on the back so we're seeing the spinny side here and the for the hot end fan I'm sorry and the pie cooling fan has a custom piece of research label so we don't know who's making that written doesn't have linear advance I think I think it does maybe it doesn't have a part cooling fan it does have a part cooling fan it is on the back right there so that is blowing air forward and we can actually you can kind of feel the air blowing out the front of the printer can you just hook it up here use being running big octoprint yes you can yes you can there is a microUSB button on the side micro USB button there's a reset button and in micro USB port on the side of course it would have been nice if it was a USB C but I mean I'll take a micro USB too so yes you can plug this in and use it on a computer whether we're gonna host or use it with octoprint as well which speed is it running default let me look it up real quick so if you go back into here we go print settings we go speed that's the speed that's the speed who's running it so that's for a point one five millimeter layer height and if you go back into the player we go into the preview and we go into volume no volumetric flow rate you can see what sort of film and flow rates we are getting and if we go in here you can see the insides are done a bit faster so you get anywhere from almost nothing up to six cubic millimeters a second and I'm sure if you increase the layer Heights you get even more flow than that settings for this print anyone know well anyone can download the Prussia slicer and just uh you know slice it for themselves for yourself you can just say you have a mini and it will slice with these exact settings this is default there's absolute defaults for the 0.15 millimeter quality setting and using generic PLA as the filming setting what is the max flow in the film in settings I can have a look but that is not in filaments that is in well there is there's max flow down here which is not set at least for the 0.15 sitting let's see if that changes for the 0.25 no they're also not limited max flow and is there a setting for max flow yes so 15 cubic millimeters a second is what they are limiting the mini at at least for this generic PLA let's see for the pre Sherman's yeah also 15 and 10 for a SA and seven for ptg all right so I mean 15 is decent you're probably not gonna run into many issues there 7 is a bit slower though so yeah is that peeling no there is no peeling going on it's just the way that the tree frog looks there is a pretty crazy overhang at the front of its belly right there so that is maybe backfeed oh definitely coming up the backside for sure not coming up I can tell you that much but the the underbelly might be coming up simply because well it is a the front feet are coming up the fun food are coming up sure top yes all right so what happened this guy why are you not sticking so the perimeter looks like it's sticking decently well you also get a bottom layer that looks like it is thorough and consistent and very blurry yes there that looks like if anything it is too low but I'm thinking that height is okay I'm gonna give it a quick wipe down with the cleaning pad and then we're gonna try again come on just as I was saying now I don't think it's coming up it looks like it is fairly flat though so not seeing issues up there but why are the feet coming up those should not be coming up for sure all right I'll let the bed cool down for a second and then we're gonna take the included cleaning pad wipe this down might just be a new bed I don't know and those just need some bedding in but I've never had that issue before hmm eyes in meditation forgot gluestick I mean it's a pee I bet it should not require any extra surface preparation other than keeping it clean yeah that is nicely saturating that that smells like perfumed IPA interesting so this should now be you can still see some of it evaporating up frontier right there so we are clean let's try again use the other bed but then I'm gonna have to relive lit hoping this one's gonna work fingerprint oils maybe don't print small objects on the powder colored sheet mmm I don't know I've never had that issue leggies dropping let me have that issue on the mark these beds so it might be that this is a bit of a different material but there you are heating up for the probing this does not look like it's too low print quality for a few layers though it looks looks to be consistent at least [Music] so let's restart this hmm wash the texture sheets with soap and water finger was maybe for me happening for me for me handling the bed activate with acetone now one thing we could try one thing we could try is just slap on a you know a bit from the mark 3 that I know works because this we should be able to just let it overhang and slap it on there just in case everything else fails we have these and this one I know works so let's get you heated up again meaning time one hour in ten minutes and that is something that the slicer is actually telling the printer and just for good measure let me drop you down just a bit more clean the nozzle it's gonna that's going to wipe off why are you peeling again it looks like we're sticking down alright but let's just retry and see if the wipe down with IPA is helping here yeah I know I'm Cruces Assembly guy who directly says to wipe it first I know I did not do that so that might have just been it just a quick wipe down if that was not it we will will see not low enough we are definitely low enough when you can see like a slight texture on the on the surface where it's kind of reflecting light in a way that that indicates that it is fairly low already trying to smooth yes I will try to smooth if this one fails so yeah the sheet is removable who's asking Brian's is asking is a sheet removable yeah so you get two sheets in the premium upgrade kit this is the one that comes with it by default that's a stickered spring steel sheet that's just the same steel core in the center and then a layer of Pei stuck on it with an adhesive film and this one is the 30 euro upgrade which is more robust but like I said earlier on the stream often does not stick as well the texture does help it and for general printing I've not had issues with these on the mark 3 but they don't have as strong of an adhesion as the smooth ones do you have an infrared thermal thermometer I don't have a thermometer with me to check still have foot on a nozzle I don't I don't nice try that dropped off very worried because I have I mean I have both of them here they have the full print right there both both both feet and the base so while that is printing up to this size let's just take a quick look at we already have here I mean the film is gorgeous that purple is really nice and it's also pretty really hard to focus on there we go so those layers right there are looking real nice and consistent how do I that is gonna be really there we go these are looking nice and consistent there is you know figure that's gyro so far so good it's just that I don't seem to have good luck with part sticking in the oh no it's already lifting again I don't seem to have good luck with part sticking down where they should be sticking and breaking off where they shouldn't be breaking off just like with Amar's yesterday so yeah this is already lifting off what's the blinking light in the top corner the blinking light is the heated bed heating so whenever power is applied to the heat of that there is a small LED down here that just indicates that there is power being sent into the bed so let's try the standard bed instead what color is the example filament so that is the galaxy purple that's included out of Prussia's own crucial mint line and we can have a look at the full spool in a minute if we get this thing printing so we will need to recalibrate the z height it's so moist from the IPA so go with it calibration go to first layer calibration let's go over it it's currently loaded filming yes we got that let's calibrate the distance between the tip and the print she'd do you want the to use the current value I do not want to use the current value because that would slam the nozzle way too far into the bed so we're now heating up actually we can't adjusted yet that's gonna heat it up and we can start readjusting this need any degree bed temp I've never needed a degree per tent for PLA so that would be very weird and it would be very weird if the default files wouldn't work on a pusher machine I mean that's that's always what I've been praising them for for providing Pusha slicer with with profiles that work well for this machine if it was any different for the mini I would be very worried about that add a brim this is a model that should print without a brim it's it I mean it's tricky to stick down that's for sure but it should not need a broom smooth bed for peel a textured for PDG yeah so the recommendation for textured for PDG so this guy for PG is something big as well PGG can tear apart the stalk sticker it's smooth sheet it will stick extremely well to the PLA and you you're very likely to just rip apart of that sheet out if you print ptg directly on the surface with the textured sheet again these are more robust so you can put PG on these and it might still stick really well but it can be conflic some and break them off without taking the P I along with it yeah cuz Volvo says I mean I've been saying that but yeah these smooth sheet does have a tendency of sticking a bit better so I'm using me guys in and yes I know we're wasting a few lines there but and you can kind of visually see the distance between the nozzle and the bed just to get a roughly correct yeah so that's too low when you can see the film and stops coming out that is too low I'm gonna say that looks roughly like zero point four millimeters yeah we're going to go to the calibration spot up front here and we're gonna see how well it looks like so if we see any light bouncing in that so any white crowns then we are too low and if you see any gaps then we are too high and this looks good maybe a bit lower yeah that should be good so how did we lift this out earlier I guess like that so let me show you again what we ended up with here so all the way at the top here we are too high and you can see it's just pulling off then as we move down low in this right there this one this is where I set it to low where you can see there's it's not opaque anymore this test equate very well but it's too low down here we are in better height where you can see it's sticking down and this is actually yeah this is already sticking down better than on to the textured sheet but it is not being squeezed so thin that you know there's barely any filament coming out and then down here you can see there's no gaps between the lines again we could probably go a bit lower still I'm fairly confident this should work now I was going to use the the regular regular the textured powder coated sheet just because again I'm using that on the mark 3 for everything and it is working very well for me there we go do you want to repeat I do not want to repeat that so let's print you again now this this is just you know if you have pre-sliced models against somebody somebody commented that there is a pre-sliced tree frog on there I don't know what they did whether they you know increase the first layer with actually I should probably do that or if they're the brim would use some other I don't know cheat to get better adhesion so let me yeah so so I just want to see what the defaults give you because the defaults are as much a part of the printer as the hardware itself I want to know how well those work together with the hardware that he get let me show you something that I usually do to my slicer profiles to avoid adhesion settings like or adhesion print settings to avoid adhesion issues like that so what I usually do is I head over into advanced let's do the 0.15 quality and this first layer you know is set to 0.42 I just go up to 11.5 you're feeling ballsy but that just really squeezes down that first layer and make sure it is it doesn't I mean it doesn't squeeze it more tightly against the bit but it's more like smashing it into the grooves and this is the texture of the bed and it also takes up any height issues height differences that it might have so if your layer height is off with a wider extrusion with like that with 1.5 millimeters we can actually see that did you mean no no I'm I know what I'm doing you can see how fat those first few bits are and even if your calibration is off by a slight bit you're still gonna get a a line of filament that is pushed against the bed it might not cover the entirety of the track but if it it's it's getting pushed against the bed either way so this is what I usually do at least with a millimeter maybe not 1.5 first layer height is also something that can be useful for yes also it's already a point too that can be something that is useful for very low layer height prints so let's continue for now so you can you can see that's something that they're already doing where the regular layer height is 0.05 and then just for the first layer it's up to point to just make it a bit more robust against any calibration issues you might have there she goes they should stick on the mark three if the printer is printing long-pressing the knob as a shortcut to move the z-axis isn't the same with a mini I think it is very much the same with a mini yes not true there is a a hotkey for holding the knob down while it is printing because it is actually on the pause button right now lost poop don't you get an elephant foot no you don't get an elephant foot because you're not just when you're doing that hold on when you're doing when you when you're increasing the width of your first layer these slices automatically compensating for that actually if you go back into the preview we've got you can see the contour here if you go into print settings advanced and we increase that to a millimeter there we go you can see how the how it's automatically moving in those lines closer to still match the outline of your print why is there an offset oh yeah you can still see how that matches the the outline and again it is compensating automatically for that wider or taller extrusion it's it's not the same as just setting your first layer height lower that's that's an entirely different story there is brim yeah I mean you could do brim but I'm again I don't I want to see how well it does without Britain also allows people please don't keep repeating yourself so yeah we will see whether this sticks down or not hoping it does does he how it should be good yeah you can you can also kind of judge the easy height on the front priming bit right there there that's that's a camera autofocus tracking benchmark with a continuously moving bit like that which the th file is not doing too well on but yeah once it lays down this line you kind of get a feel for how they should look and how white this should be and after a while you'll be able to tell whether your jihad is adjusted correctly or not just by looking at that line this is PLA repite gene this is the pre Sherman's galaxy purple ptg a peep sub P light crap I'm getting tired this is this is exhausting for me and also I think I missed a $10 super Chad 9 minutes ago from Brian drove thank you for that also a one euro stream lapse tip from fariko with a question about printing Morris flexibles from a review Bowden and flex should be most interesting testing limits for the machine yes the the Bowden setup on this machine is probably not that great for flexibles especially for these softer flexibles because with this Bowden tube going from here over there I mean it's not the longest bone tube you'll ever have seen but it is still a boat and set up and you do get a you know extra friction with a flexible filament I don't think anything can do like these super flexible sure 80d like the softer type so 95 days or something or whatever those are in 92 those should be fine but these super soft stuff I just don't think the the mini is the right printer for that and we also had a 2-pound super chair from robben print a model of yourself I don't have a 3d scan of myself I would need to do one first before I can I can print myself but I'm not I mean including a sticker set with my face on it that's just not something I would ever do I don't know maybe maybe pressure would print himself I just I just I wouldn't what is the feeling oh it's galaxy purple pee or a fisherman's cool french fries derp is there a better printer for the same price it's something I will be talking about next week in the choosing a 3d printer episode of the basics series is there is no better or best printer like this printer fills a certain set of requirements as do other printers at the same price point better or worse always depends on what you are looking for in the printer where the application is and you know what what what skill level you're going in with all that stuff like if you need a printer that can do 20-centimeter parts where 20 centimeter cubes then you know obviously the printer is not that the print of the Purusha is not a good option for you because it's too small if you're looking for a printer that does auto bed leveling that has you know good software support all that then maybe the mini is a better choice then another machine that you know is mechanically larger but is a bit more bare-bones so really better or worse it's it's because I've never called a printer the best printer and I kind of get upset when somebody does that and and just says oh yeah this is the best printer right now it's because no printer is really the best printer period is it's a best printer for a certain application you know just like I would be saying okay that the mark 3 is the printer that I use the most so I guess it is the best printer for me but then I've got you know then it's it's that's an 800 euro printer and something like a C or a 10 that just does large stuff also has a a reason to exist because again it does large stuff and it's cheap and that's something that the mini doesn't do and the marks we just do it's it's just it depends on your application ok alright okay now that we're done with that I shall unbox some some push mint in the background so I'm just gonna cut into these nice extra boxes you can you see me in the corner there right I'm just gonna leave the holy crap that is a lot of filament I'm gonna leave the the close-up of the print in the corner fisherman's last name of a man from a Czech Republic named after named after a printer so that's not how it worked design a mini Tom a minute I'm I'm hoping not saying design of me what's that box hold on hold on hold hold on where's my wavelet it's that that we're going to ship me a mini and a bit of filament why is this that's not a filament box they lied to me got7 this one looks like it's been opened I got a chick what's in here yeah nah this is this is a okay okay I thought this was just a mini with film included nope oh I just had this bump to me let's see how well it handles that oh it's just it's more filament it's just the box and box yeah I was gonna say hey I mean if they're shipping me to let's do a giveaway in the in the basic series it's just filament filming hey how is the print looking after the bump I did hit it on the head with the box of filament it looks like the main body is kind of coming up which is something that's expected but I'm not ah no if you look at it from the side you can't really see it so I'm thinking this is sticking them pretty well can you focus on the nozzle I can kick this thing into manual focus there we go and I'm gonna have to operate the camera from the other side here real quick if there's no can me how do you get out of this you if you do exit I guess like that you're a bit more forward like that that better I sent them in Excel yeah I mean the Excel is have an open secret at this point but I'm not I have zero information how far along that that is whether it's gonna be this year or next year or whether you know the plans that they've blown off or something yeah no idea see when the Excel is happening yeah that is not peeling up just a not see peel up right now me curling up slightly so more temperature on the heated bed would not have been good for this one you can see the like the arm on the front legs on the front feet are kind of coming up why is chat so it I gotta see what's what's happening here it looks like chad is kind of lagging behind for me you keep bugging out oh there we go okay okay Tama is like three Sherman you know I have I only have this single one what flavors of film it has oh okay okay okay okay apparently YouTube chat was just completely lagging out for me I don't know why I had like messages from from two minutes ago so I probably have missed some stuff betting starts still the big deal of the betting side okay and I guess this this other box is oh look at that it's another it's another mini two more minis what a heavy mini though one more mini which is Clement oh it is a like little box a little packages in here and the rest is filament and we've got one more mini over here full of filaments so they did send me their entire filament range looting all the ASA's PT geez all the codes they have [Applause] how do you know this is a crucial minion you're not a giant banana for scale if you look at some of my Oh blue stick nice look at some of my interview videos from Earth Murph etcetera you can actually judge my height and I can guarantee I've not grown since then maybe become slightly wider but I for sure have not become taller so yeah this this is pre-tax blue stick I guess they knew we're gonna have this occasion issues yeah there you see facts yeah so there's some filament on here there is you drop this down there is another mini box full of filament back here there is one more box of filaments over there so that's two boxes of ow paper cut one more box of filament and yeah what's on the table here so it is a lot of lemons ah Filipinos great for busting marketing happen so many kinds of filaments yes Phil oween maybe you've seen this guy in the background Phil once I'm done with the basic series I can work on filling 3.0 and get some more testing in a way so Halloween is still and it's kind of hibernating because I wasn't happy with the setup and with the way that I was doing the test Phil oweenee is coming back for sure this year I'm just gonna say this year later this year we will have more filming ow and now I'm bleeding what did I miss enchant talk so that is out of stock they sent you everything yeah Eric is coming pressure released on a printed or mechanical part files no electronics no bomb there is no bomb that I've seen so far but the main board and the bed files I've seen on github so those are out and you are waking clones of those already but yeah there is no bond that's that's the one thing I'm gonna note too but the electronics or we can zoom in even further the electronics are out there already designed for those yeah that's painting all right so keep in mind it is a Bowden setup I mean I can see some curling I mean just that part that I printed just then with the little arms where it is starting to curl up you can also see it on the right side there so that's gonna have to be something we look into how much that affects the surface finish but yes so far so good and we are 52 minutes remaining you can get clones of the whole printer so it's all out there yeah I guess you can it's fizzy tech are good with creating clones and stuff I've seen parts for the to the mark 3 I'm sure many parts out there as well print the parts on the mini look awful print apart centimeter look yeah a lotta great I mean they're printed very quickly how does auto bed leveling calculate the z y and z xq does it compensate for that right so what it does is if you not done that on the mini but the mini hardware supports it I can show you on the mark 3 okay I don't think the mini firmware supports that yet that's still something that's that's going to need to come via an upgrade at some point I mean in this oh there we go in this calibration wizard I've not seen the SKU correction so what the mark 3 bed has so this is the bare PCB it's not the the spring steel it has these dots there's one marked here and then there more embedded in the surface which I actually can't find right now there's one more there there's one more there and there so those spots it can actually sense with the sensor it's gonna go over them it's going to detect where those spots are exactly so with that it is correcting the SKU basically XY so if the x and y axes are not perpendicular to each other it can correct for that that's just because the PCB is made to a very high precision and you know it can sense those spots that are just embedded in the PCB and when something else and the printer is off and you know something is skewed or somehow misaligned it is going to sense a deviation from the ideal position so spot should be in and then the rest is basically just done with a complete measurement of the bed surface and fitting a plane in there and then can you know it can compensate all the other ways that this stuff could be skewed or miss assembled how does this compare to the cr6 se well this printer is out and shipping and the C or six e6 cr6 se is not so I think that's like the biggest comparison we can make there is there a script to generate variable sizes of print beds yet probably probably but I think this will would mostly be handmade still bila rockets this is the pre Sherman galaxy purple that's a sample that was included so yeah mistake would be the one with the flip-flop color effect I've got a see if I can find that I've got opal green that's more of a dark green yellow gold carmine red urban gray mr. green there it is so mystic green for comparison that is an actual flip-flop to color yeah you also get that looks black yes they did include galaxy black as well what is the speed what's the speed the speed is the stalk which you can look up in the v-fold Wow which you can look up improves lesser if you have that and just select the mini as your printer but it's around I mean it's between 30 and 80 millimeters a second crucial mini versus in two three well the end of three is slightly bigger and cheaper so that's what you're looking for and don't mind you know getting a more bare-bones and slightly less feature-rich machine then hopefully that one instead so may I divert your attention for a second we have mystic green this preferment mystic green you can see how that flip-flops in color treatments no oh we cannot zoom on anymore so that is the mystic green so as you printed depending on how your surface is oriented it's either gonna be this copper brownish or more this green color that makes for some really interesting colors on a print because you are you seeing that flip-flopping happen with the curve of each layer so the curve of the model itself also matters but each layer also has its anchor so yeah it it has a very interesting surface finish on not a fan while your human two fans on this printer why is the mini not available as a complete kit so that is apparently something that they decided that it would be more effort to support people building the kit and making mistakes along the way versus optimizing the printer to be assembled at their plant in Prague and you know just basically swallowing the cost for the assembly for every single machine versus and and being more efficient at it versus supporting people assembling them themselves yeah what does the mark 3 have that the mini doesn't have beside the size so the mark 3 what does the Mike's we have so the one the the one of the big features of the mini is the 32-bit platform so obviously if I go back to autofocus would obviously mini is running a 32-bit custom mainboard and based on Marlin firmware ish software the Micra fee runs on 8-bit however the 8-bit flat from that Marlin or the mark 3 runs on is much more feature-rich at this point simply because it's been it's been maturing for much longer and like the background in of what's happening behind the scenes just has a lot more polish to it I guess I got a look into how much of Marlin is actually running on the mini and how that plays into all that it's just it's it's a more mature platform on the mark 3 but then again it's also more limited harder platform mic 3 what else Mike Lee has an all-metal hotend so Mike's Wii uses a slightly customized a 3d v6 so you can go all the way to these super high temperature materials like I don't know PC with PC abs polycarbonate so do you want to print it like 280 or 300 degrees maybe what else are you getting what else are you getting your getting a printer that is mechanically I guess slightly more robust more rigid it doesn't have this long lever that's sticking out so if you pump that obviously you're gonna see that no print yeah it has stealth mode on the drivers has that which apparently the mini does not have or it does not have yet what else are you getting not sure if the mini has power failure detection if it has power panic yes me me a son is pointing that out right now that is done through custom circuitry in the mark threes power supply I'm pretty sure the mini can't really do that because once that runs once it detects power running out at the power supply it has very little time to react berrak drive yes so many is Bowden obviously Bowden fits so it's not going to be that great for flexibles but it does have a lighter to hood yeah so I guess you guys can point out mmm well the other stuff that I've missed but no mm you planned for the mini probably no idea Scott should it have power law should it have power loss recovery it has it in software okay so Scott and Athene developer of Marlin he should know his stuff and if he's saying hey test the power panicked and I guess that is something to trust okay okay I'm just gonna click that name real quick and make sure it's not an impersonator or something but uh it looks legit let me look it up on the puja website real quick here I don't want to ruin this pretty print now a we do have it running crucial many power panic original crucian mini okay this is sit - there you go softer based power panic oh yeah this translation is rough okay I mean pol panic let's try it let's try I mean a little excitement can't hurt so I'm gonna zoom you guys out there you go there's no power supply and yeah let's see let's see how well they work now I'm not gonna leave it sitting for long because I don't trust the hot end to not clog if it's left for too long let me see verify loading that doesn't look like it has power panic guys yeah like that's that's not resuming how does not resume me hey software-based power panning let me let me switch it over to English give me two give me two hover over that there you go software-based power panic huh interesting so I guess this does not work yet and there's our print we're gonna let that cool down and able resuming do we need to enable this I don't know where would I enable this okay well this cools down let's check the manual there's no that option yet let me see if we have the manual still open handbook okay so let's do control F and search for power disconnecting power supply power outlet let's do power pan no panic Spanish no that's not we want power power cord power supply power switch place the power brick we know we can trip over it - do not pull the power plug from the printer directly yep the power supply has a locking mechanism pressing the reset button equates to quickly toggling the power switch printer keeps track of its currently loaded filament pull out the power switch so power panic does not work at least in this one yet alright so let's have a look at what we got printed on this tree frog so yeah don't don't trust power panic it now pop manic is not a feature that I usually worry about because our grid here is relatively stable and if it goes out it goes out for like 15 minutes where which it has done like you have a few months ago but we don't get those little power hiccups where the power just goes out for a few seconds which is what power panic would be really useful for so I don't usually pay attention to there we go - those features much they're nice to have for sure but if it's on the website if it's on the official approach' website like it should have it should have power panic I mean if it says it does it should have it so for what we have first of all so the things to look out for on this kind of half-eaten tree frog and the things things to look out for it is this overhang on the bottom here if the cooling isn't sufficient that really likes to curl up and so far this is looking very consistent because that is a if you look at it from the side that is a very steep overhang that's like I don't know which direction you calculate it but it's like a 60-degree overhang on the legs on the front legs you can kind of see there you go you can kind of see how it was slightly curling up but those are also very small bits and still have quite an overhanging angle do I have a tree frog from a previous print I am not sure but yeah surf is finished so far pretty good tops you don't need to see my my hairy arm and focus top surface finished except for that one blob I don't know where that is from top surface finish even for internal surfaces surfaces Ashish it's looking good I mean the filament is pretty too there's no what I can see is that there is really no like stepper artifacting where you would see the individual steps somehow being visible that's that's really nice so they've really got the TMC 22:09 figured out in combination with these stepper motors they're using so that seems to be a really good combination because usually you can at least see like some rippling on the surface if there is just none I mean the only rippling I'm seeing is into influencing aliasing for my camera sensor with the layers but that is looking really smooth yeah overall print quality from what I'm seeing there's a bit of a heavy string that just flew off and on the leg back here you can also see it just a bit of of stringing ever-so-slightly it is a ball set up so you will get some amount of stringing in Phil's looking good - yeah guys I know I know what the blob is like obviously but I'm playing with y'all yeah it's half of a tree frog it's looking good as a prince there's a firmware for power panic he's okay you see what's okay what is confusing me here is expectations and how you're kind of conforming to expectations that he have said previously so there were two expectations that I had with this machine with the power panic is first of all it says on the website that it has power panic if it was like hey in each update the firmware for that I would have I would have expected that that to be a note there also on previous preassure printers like the mark 3 whenever you start a print or whenever you insert a drive that has a newly sliced model on it it will well in this case because it can read USB quite efficiently I would assume it has that feature too but on the mark 3 if you if you load AG code with a that has been freshly sliced the slicer will actually check online for current at least that's that's where in the Senate will check for the current firmware so I would have expected on a 32-bit platform that you would need that he would get that warning to when you plug in the thing and you grab a fresh G code that it would you know remind you hey there's a new firmware available it does say that is coming in a future update let me double check that real quick so where were we at shampoo show Mini are we our panic oh okay so it does say down here future software upgrade that's in the notes down here where do we see power panic where do we see that feature just a minute ago was it on here but that takes us to the same shop I could have sworn if you if you scroll back you're still gonna see it oh yeah there it says there your original that's not the shop site that's the announcement video okay I have announcement video announcement page software based power panic and then down here it says future software upgrade yeah okay okay so control their control device Scott Levine and Adam out of mind we got a print out the print is looking good at least the part that we did get yes so far it looks like the mini is still is still kind of very much dependent on hey we're gonna implement these things in the future power panic Wi-Fi is gonna be an add-on that you can plug in an ESP to to the main board and then get Wi-Fi functionality for now you get eaten it I don't know how well the the Ethernet interface works it again on the sl1 it's been very Spartan and just basically status monitor same in free to get on the screen but yeah so far it works it prints I'm I'm actually the thing that I'm most impressed with is not the assembly which was okay I mean it was well described it was three four screws mechanically like yet can't deliver printer you can see how you know obviously any movement here is going to get amplified so you shouldn't really be moving touching the printer was doing its thing but what I'm really surprised about is that it's the print quality it's just this good like I know it's I'm looking at half a frog here but the quality that he get just the consistency of the layers is extremely good like this is better than the mark 3 I'm gonna have to do comparison prints but for now I'm gonna say this just points nicer than the mark 3 from just looking at this frog but but but but but but but yeah so far so good I'll be using this printer in again in the upcoming basics Guide series I can't believe I got trolled that hard for us I'll be using this printer in the upcoming basic series this and the mark 3 will be my main two workhorses for that so I'll be getting some more always on this machine I'll be getting some more experience with it and I'll see what it can and can actually do let's do a few questions from you guys because I see I just each a scrolling by one trying to be consistent with the stuff that I did say about this printer check full specifications yes future upgrade we did that when you use cheap film and it will string a lot that's when you use wet filament so I think Stefan has done a few videos on that on drying filaments properly PLA s do benefit from being dry as well it is a real issue with p2g so if he is cheap film and it might just not be dry so give that a try OTA upgrades I don't know if the if it does OTA upgrades to even it it does say on the website they can just send film words through it to it through Wi-Fi were three Ethernet but again I'm not sure if that is supported yet proof instructions on like leg instructions yeah especially with the West cheat sheet with this thing where literally has the Lego style hey this is what you fashion look like in there um we're practical printing is doing beta testing and stuff it's coming okay yeah I guess all right our HP 32 base 3 printer controller usually sucks the thing is this is this is using an STM 32 so it's using a full I guess the ESP is also a 32 bit control but it is using a real processor for doing the motion and for doing the screen and all over to control do you have not much but for doing like the stuff that is commonly referred to as the firmware that is done through the stm32 that's the product that's it's doing the same jobs that the ethanol at mega 2560 used to do on the old boards so that's what the stm32 is doing and then you can plug in an extra HP 32 to just handle the Wi-Fi functionality so really that's that's probably just gonna provide a web server and it's then communicating with the board in the saying hey this is what the dude on the other side of the webserver did or in the web browser did can you do that for me and they communicate like that and yeah the ESP is really just for that weapon to face what's new with the mark 3 s 3 point 9.0 update I don't know I don't have luck 3s but I'm sure the update is also working for Mark 3 does this work with SD cards no it does not you get a USB port on the side and that is it so there is the connectivity on the side a USB port for plugging in a drive and then the micro USB where you can plug in to a computer and use this as a printer slave device or you can plug this into a Raspberry Pi and use it with your skin use it with octoprint so that's what this thing does no SD card hello honestly item I don't care if it's SD or USB either one works just fine cool yeah and I think that is that's it I think we've we've made it through are not worried about consuming the fumes when you print plastics with PLA I'm not that worried about it but you probably should open a window in either case alright um that's I think it gonna be it for me for today we got half a frog out again let me even let me show you those nice consistent layers maybe there's the screen there we go those layers look very consistent so I'm gonna give it that much I will need to do more printing and more researching and more testing on this machine to really come to a conclusion and even at that point it's probably gonna be like hey yeah I mean there is soft updates coming but yeah power panic is not one of those that it is implemented yes thank you all for coming along for the ride I will get to producing most basics videos starting tomorrow they're gonna be released from Friday next week oh one more thing that you guys can check out actually let me let me show you here we've got little there you go we've got little tiny Barbies on I know that's the wrong channel there we go we've got little tiny babies under the roof of our house there we go you've got three black birds nesting and they've hatched about nine days ago or so so come check that out if you want to just if you if you need something just to to kind of look at innocent little babies getting fit and getting getting bigger every day it's quite fascinating just just side note but yeah thank you all for being here thank you for everyone who has you know been helpful in chat again I want to point out that I have some of the best people in chat some of the best viewers very helpful thank you all Scott like why are you throwing me I know it's it's all good yeah thanks for watching and we will see you later good bye oh I'll post the link to the birds and the chat real quick here see ya [Music] you

Channel: Thomas Sanladerer

Views: 217,266

Keywords: anet a8, 3d printer, 3d printing, 3d printing for beginners, 3d printer review, anet a8 setup, anet a8 assembly, anet a8 review

Id: g6r9Wh3Nqdw

Length: 202min 12sec (12132 seconds)

Published: Fri May 29 2020