Was live: Building a Voron 2.4! (Part 4: Mechanics completed)

[Music] this live stream series is sponsored by slice engineering and the mosquito magnum plus hotend push absurd amounts of filament while maintaining the structural integrity of the mosquito design the mosquito magnum plus can be configured with up to 100 watts of heating power redundant 500 degrees celsius rated thermistors and air or water cooling i'll be using the magnum plus for this build and you can find the links in the description below also do it 3d the warren printed forward team and lineo were kind enough to provide some of the high quality parts for this build free of charge i've purchased the rest of the parts on the regular like the formbot kit upgrades from firmware labs and little bits here and there you can find links for everything in the description below now let's get started with the build hi we're back we are back at building a war on 2.4 it feels like it's been forever since we did the last one here um but for some i i don't know live streaming is always is always exciting and exhausting and exhilarating so welcome everyone who's here um i saw that there's like a 200 people already here um and i'm not even starting anything today i'm seeing nero's here a bunch of familiar names as well connor just said a minute ago hey it's this first live stream that it is actually catching live but as you know you can always re-watch these um if you run out of time watching these and some somebody said hey this is like my soundtrack to working from home like please work do do your job and then you know watch these streams i i don't want to distract you from from doing the actual work so uh yeah today we hopefully are going to be completing the mechanical builds um as the title of the video says like the actual mechanical build as in we should have x y z and e oh yeah i remember we still have to build the extruder i will see we'll see um so everything that is mechanical this thing should be fully movable it's not going to be powered up yet i think that's going to be still a bit further out like electronics wiring um all that will need to be done separately and i um yeah for for wiring i just want to have everything built and then i'm probably gonna have to take apart some some stuff again oh yeah by the way new top camera i put the gh5 that used to be there that used to be that no that used to be that perspective that is now the overhead camera so the overhead angle should be a lot a lot nicer um yeah for example this in-stop bracket i will need to take off again and add some short bits of wiring and connect this here um just so that it can mate up with uh the wiring loom that linear sent over so this has all the connectors for the board well almost all the connectors for the board side already at least it's got all the crimps on there and yeah the other side has these microfit juniors on it on all the connectors so that is something we we're going to have to do at later date and like i said i'm not sure if i'm going to do wiring on stream because i find that i would find that boring to watch i would rather do firmware config in figuring all that out um on camera with you guys because configuring do it i've done that three four times from scratch on a printer and it's always been it's always been quite a brain teaser to get everything set up in the way where you know in the end everything works as intended especially with the setup where you have a bed probe oh yeah we still of course have that angle we have a this is upside down we have a bit probe plus um that's two length since oh that mmm clicky so yeah that's gonna be something i'm gonna have to figure out i think off camera um i might do time lapse and add that at the beginning of the stream after that uh yeah but for today like i said mechanics uh thank you for the 50 i don't have no idea what currency that is uh glad you're enjoying the stream and no sorry dolly is not with us anymore so dolly for those of you who don't know um was my prusa mark ii not really clone but like cheapo knockoff build and i have since disassembled that it was a bit too far on the [Music] super budget size like especially the um the setup with the bed was a bit ah it was a bit dodgy uh it would have needed quite a few overhauls but those of you who did build it i think or i hope built it a bit more reasonably raw built a bit more reasonably uh than i did on that stream and of course building stuff on stream there's always the pressure of you guys watching and uh trying to get it done quickly and and all that so uh yeah but if this feels like the dolly build maybe that's intentional maybe this was kind of an attempt to to get that that feel for hey we're building something together and we're building a printer uh that's uh that's a kit and some stuff might go wrong and they probably probably will we'll see um stefan's here as well hey stefan good to have you in chat here um fourth stream and still mechanics well stephanie i mean you you did the entire build off camera right yeah well you had a camera running but you edited that i'm just i'm just pulling through uh as far as i can like i just said i'm probably gonna have some some stuff i do off-camera but let's check out what we are up at so i did scroll through the manual a bit oh yeah we still need to build the entire extruder uh with a pancake motor yep but we stopped last time when it comes to belting everything up so that was the step where it's like you have the x carriage and you attach uh you attach the bearing whether the carriage to the bottom rail god i'm nervous now that i know that stiffness watching so this is the back side of the extruder front rail is here and we skipped the bottom rail usually there would be another carriage in the bottom here but as advised by the warren team i left this one out because the front rail is enough and yeah feeling feeling how rigid this is this is definitely more than rigid enough to carry a to carry a hot and there's there's like zero slop uh that i can feel right now what's the point of live streaming if stuff doesn't go wrong yeah exactly uh shadow what are you building well i mean look at look at the videos are like it's all in there anyways that's what we're gonna do today so i stopped at adding the belts because i was like okay belting is going to be belting is going to be a a part where i might screw up and i don't want to screw up and essentially well that's the switch block okay uh i don't want to screw up because if you cut the belts too short like that's it i do have i think i do have some some extra belts but they may not be the same uh gate spell that the kit includes so that's actually a plus on the formbot kit these at least according to the label um yeah these are gates power drive genuine date get jade's gate spout power bed yeah very good power bits gates power builds um which are a lot more rigid and a lot less elastic than the knockoff belts all right um cutting the belts let me just check if there's anything in here cutting the belt securing the belt tighten them down yet these are um these little flanged widgets those are the the red accent pieces uh that are going to clamp both belt loops in place so let me see if there is actually no okay so it is literally add belts that is that is the manual step wow there's nothing else about belts anywhere right nope and then it's the z-axis so basically it's add some belt uh there is so that there's how the belt is supposed to go the entire um well belt path you can see that on the left here so it's two loops it is two levels of belt uh that a core xy system has and that's one and that is the other so you can see on this side it wraps around the motor back here and then it goes all the way to the front that is the upper level well there's only one way to assemble these and then the other loop wraps around the motor right there and it goes towards the front on that side as well so first thing to figure out is which belts these are for x y because we have gt2 nine millimeter at one meter and ten millimeters we have six millimeter at one meter eighty centimeters and we have one that's unlabeled but that is a nine millimeter as well i think that is part of that so i believe these four oh yeah i can i can switch through different crops on the top zoom camera now ha so that i believe is the ones for the z-axis and then these two two six millimeter ones one meter eighty yeah that sounds about right these would be the ones for the uh for the x wide rise do these have yeah there's a label there is the label for the gates belt gates hard drive gt ll 2gt by the way that this is kind of a pet peeve of mine the name gt2 is inaccurate in the way that it's used these belts might be gt2 but they are just gt bells for the most part these are labeled just as gates power grip gt and that's fine um because while the the way that these are labeled is kind of weird the thing is if you're saying gt2 and you're referring to a two millimeter pitch with that that is wrong like the two two millimeter pitch belt is always two gt as it is correctly labeled on here so this is a gaze power grip gt ll2gt if it's a three gt it's a three millimeter pitch um and you can get both htd which is the like historical um low low performance profile that is compatible with gt you can get uh gt and you can get gt2 and i think there's even a gt3 you can get those in all sorts of different pitches so you could get a gt2 in a five millimeter pitch totally adequate but yeah uh the way that that naming is usually used is when it's gt2 it is referring to a two millimeter pitch belt anyway so there is there is really only one way i'm nervous to start this belting process because this might might be a bit finicky um [Music] let me see so i guess i'll start at this clamp right here so i'll start at the clamp that holds actually if i push this back it might be easy to see i'm going to start at this clamp right here and i i think i've clamped this side down already just to keep it in place and just to make sure it's not like sliding around or anything so you and i'm already inserting the belt backwards maybe if you rotate you guys can see a bit more of what i'm doing so that is backwards um it's like this just goes through to the side and then this bit right there where it's pressing up against that has that tooth profile to it so how are we supposed to cut these cutting belts to cut both x y belts the same length you can pre-run one length and then cut the other using it as your guide so basically you you would thread in one and then take it out again and then cut the other one the exact same size okay so i'm going to leave why can't i just leave these too long then cut them to size when i well i guess for one that works but yeah theoretically these should be the exact same size the exact same well size the same length now for both of these meshed them together yeah you don't need to cut the belts they're pre-length in the kit okay so supposedly they are 100 and or 1010 millimeters long kids come with pre-cut lengths okay the manual assumes you have one continuous spool at first so i guess i'll just leave this one sticking out slightly that is a bit dark uh i'll leave this one sticking out like one tooth and then i'll just move over to belting this through so you so this side and this is the bottom belt that we're doing so you go through here and then you go back go back you go back i guess if i pull you through to the front and peter already twisted no so you go to the front and then you go back through here there's an idler there well that's actually a pretty tight fit on that idler with the two flange bearings butting up against each other and that's there but it is running smoothly at least as long as it's on the island did i did i actually miss the island now just jumped off uh this is probably a pain to watch especially because i'm already having a hard time uh keeping track of where stuff is happening come on there so that's there then [Music] this corner over here has two bearings or two idlers stacked on top of each other ah that's hard to show there we go that is that corner and then this rides oh yeah this is going to get threaded through the motor up top here so it might be a tricky one so you go through here then i guess we can first thread it around the idler and then back again because there are plenty of openings the pulley is in the correct spot there are plenty of openings to thread this around parts so if you um if you kind of don't get it into exactly the right path first on or on first try i think i painted myself into a corner here you don't get it exactly right on the first try um you can [Music] he can most likely feed it through feed it out one end and back into another one come on yes there you go so at the end um at the end i can bend these around that's that's fine but you do not want to crimp or kink these belts in the center because that's going to be a spot where whenever it runs over an idler it's going to give you a little bump because that spot is going to go it will want to snap into place [Music] that may or may not be visible in prints but definitely you don't you don't want to to get these kinked in the middle so we are going to go towards the forward eyelet what's this guy so this just threads through and then this is the tensioner that we assembled there's a an idler in this red part that will allow the belt to get tension and i'm going to put this at the lowest tension for now because if this belt is actually cut to the exact right length then you know if i were to hopefully put this in the tension spot i wouldn't be able to clamp it down at the tool head well that's interesting um first of all this belt jumped into um the aluminum extrusion and also there is a toothed idler in here how is the do we do we flip the belt oh yeah i flipped the belt that's the problem okay i was wondering like why would the teeth where why would the back of the belt run against the teeth but then i realized okay would be the wrong way around there as well so i flipped that you shouldn't flip the belt shouldn't put a 180 turn on it though i think some some early printer designs actually did that where they had the belt not running flat but had a twist in it at some point and that kind of works though it only really works with uh the five millimeter or five or six millimeter bills if it's if it's a larger belt that's gonna cause some issues so you go through here and the war on 2.4 here is pretty consistent when it comes to using toothed idlers for the side of the belt that has the teeth on it versus using smooth idlers or a pair of those f 695 bearings for the side that has no teeth on it that is just smooth so with a small oh that is that is pretty long wow um so with with a smooth idler uh running over the teeth you may be able to see some of the some of that bumpiness but yeah not with where's my there's a screw not with running it over a toothed idler as well don't cut just make him equal okay don't cut me now so so just pull the shorter end out okay so make both the loose ends equal all right so you come through here the thing is i can't really tension this now because well i guess i can i guess i can because these two sides um what i thought would happen so if i if i tension this belt there is there is going to be a you know these two sides will want to compress against each other but because we have the x-axis in place already that should be rigid so yeah make sure your belts are the same length first though well i'm it's too late for that um okay so this i'm just going to put to half the length and i'm going to undo this one again and also pull through a bit more i just put this on to the shortest possible length because well uh it's important so what do what do they do okay huh so basically basically i should take this all out again okay at least i know how it's gonna how it's getting threaded through right now can you show how it will move with only one belt installed well we're to get to only one belt installed again in a second for now i guess we're pulling this all out again oh no so you see i guess i can kind of show you because there is some friction if i pull on this end that's at the tool head it's just pulling forward um same actually on this side but if this was clamped here and i pull here you can see it tries to move diagonally and that is kind of the the secret sauce of core x y it's basically oh yeah i'm dragging through the motor that's why it's it's so tough um core x y is basically an x y z system an x y system built at a 45 degree angle so one of the motors moves this way diagonally the other one moves this way diagonally okay and then this should be the second one so let me try and compare these so as far as i know the best way to make sure these are of equal length is just to mesh them together like this so with the two toothed sides facing each other then just by sliding it through my fingers with the teeth oops unless you can feel it skip there should be making sure that it's equal hope i can i can keep feeling its skip almost looks like the like one of these has a bit more tension to it than the other i'm sure this is super exciting to watch i just want to make sure we don't skip a tooth and trying to make sure these are exactly the same tooth length so i'm guessing with the with the belts matched in toothlink length we can count back and we can make sure we get the same amount of teeth sticking out of the um our x carriage and that way we know the amount of teeth in the system would be identical equal tension yeah at the end you can simply come to teeth sticking out so yeah these look at that i believe i did not skip any teeth these are different by actually a bit over a centimeter camera come on no that's not what i want to focus on there we go that is the different difference in length that we're getting it's quite a bit that should be better now i don't know which one of these i started out with one tooth extra but i think one tooth should be one tooth off shouldn't be that big of a deal yeah tintec that's exactly what what what i'm not sure about but right these are the exact same length and now we can nope we can actually thread it in in the correct orientation so i'm gonna just give it a bit of stick out on that side i can focus perfect here i'm going to give it a bit of stick out and then once everything is through i can adjust it what am i doing i am trying to uh get these belts the exact same length uh hold on who's writing me is this important nope that's my buddy having food again oh well last time i was grilling out today it's uh asparagus oh man you can mount the belt flush on the side you're starting on okay so flush flush as in i'm gonna leave one tooth as an overhang just to give me something to grab onto if i if i need to get in back in and pull it out i can actually i can climb the other one as well while we're at it so i'm not gonna have to undo this again um nope that's the one we're doing right now so you hear the same way as the other one by the way if you guys are having a tough time seeing this while the perspective isn't that great but i'm also having a tough time seeing this um because this this the lighting from this side is pretty dim got the studio set up to look nice on camera that also means it's not always the most functional lighting like that that perspective oh look at me nicely nice soft light bit of a of an accent light from the side but actually from the back from behind me there's like zero lighting which means i'm working the dark way you guys get to see for the most part that camera also has a horrible angle for for lighting it's mostly it's mostly backlit well i need to fix that for the next live stream at some point is it worth studying architecture slash engineering in germany for a semester i love the engineering and design in europe especially germany thanks for the five kyle is it worth studying architecture engineering in germany for a semester well i don't know what a semester is going to give you i've studied engineering in germany for [Music] seven semesters eight semesters i don't remember uh just the regular bachelor's degree plus um you know the time that it took to to get my bachelor's thesis done with timing at the company that i was doing that at cetera et cetera and i honestly i don't really have a comparison like whether uh you know the the university here is better than international ones but i guess i guess it depends where your your main degree is happening but if you in either case if you get the chance to you know do why why are we why are we in that angle that's not what i wanted if you get the chance to do a semester in a different country i mean i would i would take that just for you know not for oh it's gonna you know it's gonna add extra value to my degree to be honest nobody cares about your your degree it's about what you what you can do in a degree is like one of the worst ways to judge that um in my opinion the [Music] yeah just the the extra like cultural experience i think that's definitely worth it so if you have the chance do that why not and also like it doesn't matter if it's germany or or some other country [Music] so yeah if you have the chance go for it it's like eating tons of garlic you'll regret it but it's so good i've never regretted eating garlic not once that might be because i i stopped i stopped caring so much but garlic is awesome what is the most valuable skill you get from you you get from university oh [Music] i don't know i i don't know which specific skill i would i would point to there no idea the thing for me is you know as you may have been able to tell i'm not a i'm not a person who does well in like a in in like a lecture setting where it's like oh here's here's a guy talking about stuff and you just listen and you learn and so you're supposed to learn and that's it i prefer doing stuff hands-on and using or or learning stuff bit by bit as i need it so i've i've learned some pro i've i've learned about some programming stuff i'm doing python right now 3d printing yes i did in the kind of in the context of university or i guess university of applied sciences know what what technical university is what they're called right now um so i got into that through university yes but that was only like a an opportunity to to jump into it i did not need university to get into 3d printing it's like you know i i enjoy that process of of trying things and figuring stuff out as you go and failing at it and kind of picking up knowledge here and there as you need it so you know he set out to learn one thing and in the end you know about a dozen others that he had never intended to learn about that is kind of what what i really enjoy and university didn't really give me that um though to be fair i had i had a few professors that were that were actually really good and that i that i still um that i did enjoy the lectures from but for the most part you go here uh for the most part i don't feel like university for me specifically did all that much like sure i i got some i got knowledge out of it an education out of it but like i don't feel like i like it was time spent efficiently i could have learned more in a different setting but that's i mean that's a that's a very individual thing why no background music um it's hard to find background music that everyone likes and if i pick up music like that's going to be that's basically gonna be a day of picking up music for me uh if you want background music just put on spotify or something also i cannot just put on copyright music and close wifi that doesn't work that's going to get me demonetized or the video deleted pretty quickly would it possible to show how you router how you route it at the back okay there's the routing at the back so the one side goes through the motor this one goes through the pulley up here and then the other side right there that just goes along the back open like this then this one over here goes through the motor on the other side um yeah i guess one more thought about about university um like i said for me that is not you know lectures etc is not the way that i learned so i was like well bachelor's degree i guess that's going to be it like that's all i'm i came for uh it's that piece of paper that you need you know if if you want to work as an engineer you need some sort of a degree and like for me it was just a call okay i don't want to do another masters on top of this this is not this is not something i i really enjoy i want to get out there and and do something and i guess in the end that somehow worked out there is one one loading screen tip uh in the in the starting soon screen which is like you know everything's gonna be okay and that's what what that felt like make sure you you could have done more on university but like you know whichever ch whichever choice you make as long as you stand by it and you do that a hundred percent stuff is going to be fine yeah so for me that was the call hey bachelor's degree that's fine uh stream beats yeah so the thing with um okay totally different topic stream music i do have an epidemic sound license and i very much like that i think it's even linked in the video description and all the music you hear on the channel these days is from epis epidemic sound the thing with like free music and like free music libraries and no copyright music and stuff is you never know when they're gonna come for you like they it might be okay at the time but they might change their terms or they might i don't know do something and all of a sudden hey your entire channel is demonetized or is monetized by someone else um because they you know they delete the original videos where it says hey it's fine that you're using this it's just i i don't trust those sites i've used them in the past but always left me with a fishy feeling so for me properly licensed music epidemic sounds but i mean hey if you uh if you would like to have some background music i guess you can you can have stream beats open in the background too that's up to you second clamp going on this is what we're looking like right now you know it's it's kind of slippery with the um with probes sticking down so far there's that so this side has the belts flush well at least one tooth sticking out and then this side has them pretty much at the same length i guess that's where we what we're going for these need to go yeah these are fine i don't need to count these i don't have an offset so i'm just going to clamp these down as is and the rest i guess is is going to be the job of the tensioners don't tension x y yeah so this is this barely has any tension on it it's just i've taken the slack out but that's it okay so there's no skew oh yeah you can see like how little tension there is barely anything uh did that slip no it's just some stuff settled okay so that is the belts in uh 3dp mommy shot i believe the the reason why we're putting the belts in now um is because well it's easier to get to and i missed the trash bin and because we did count um the teeth or at least we made sure they are the exact same length and it doesn't from what i understand is um you don't want these belts to be that the more important thing is to have these belts the same length so that the kinematics in the end work out if they are if you pull them to the same length you might get these react or if you adjust it in the frame it might also be wrecked without you knowing it so that is my understanding right now of this setup when will we square up the gantry um in the frame then i guess so it's it's two different components it is the belts being the same length and the frame being square or the gantry being square and that is something that i think is going to happen in the uh in the printer or in the frame theoretically yeah this shouldn't jump around right okay all righty then belts cutting belt belts not cut yet thoughts are still so hold on this yeah belts are still loose tension them enough so that they don't hop off the idlers or pulleys the final tension would happen in the frame so these yeah these are on the on the pulleys enough i think they should stay so we got that got that heat sets all right let me fire up the soldering station to [Music] polycarbonate temps yep these two need to heat sets two heat sets two m3 by 40s oh do we need oh we need a hotend now okay hold on so with the mesquito this is m2 screws isn't it the top of the mosquito that is m2 or m 2.5 screws it's not m3 if i remember correctly nope 2.5 do i have to actually have mounting screws with this one oh whoa whoa whoa this might be a problem if i knew where i had my box with the mosquito parts wait do i not have no i'm not that differently i mounted that one differently a while ago ah okay so we might need to and i don't have i mean my screw assortments oh hold on do i i have some specialty stuff in here now this just grab screws we have some m2 screws somewhere not in here i think nope um so i'm gonna need to find some screws at some point uh let me get these parts prepared though that we're gonna need for um for assembling everything in place because then it should just be actually you know what i'm going to leave this out for now and just assemble everything without the hotend uh so that can just drop in and the way that it's it's mounted in these parts oh look at that nice print quality um the way that it's mounted is just through the well i'm gonna do it like this so we don't actually bend stuff um goes in here goes in there there we go and it's actually it's actually held in place at the bottom here as well as being screwed in through the top you can see that that that center slot there that center slot there that's for the filament and then we have one two m 2.5 screws that are going to hold everything in place all right um and then i can decide which orientation this can go in whether it's going to be like that or backwards come on you are a tight one backwards like like that with the uh printed side facing i guess that's the the user side um the visible side then all right um somebody asked hey which materials did he use to um to print with this or to print to which materials did he use to print all these parts so the black and red parts except for the x carriage and the fan shroud the black and red parts were printed by the warren printed forward team if remember correctly it was andreas from the from the german team in esun abs plus and the red one was something else but these are abs and then the parts that i printed uh for the carriage are prusherman's pc blend because i was told the mosquito magnum plus likes to melt stuff um because it doesn't have a sock around it and i just wanted to make sure that you know whatever is around it uh would not melt because that would be that would be bad if stuff melted um and you know polycarbonates we saw that last time already getting these heatset inserts in is something that requires a lot more temperature than in abs so i feel like you know these parts should be a lot more temperature resistant as well and i don't think that's where the heatset insert actually goes hold on let me double check oh yeah that is where the heatside insert goes so two on this side one two here and then two on the back side uh i did have a choice of color for the parts so i was asked which color i would like but it was like hey do you want so the warren team actually provided these through pif and they asked me hey which color would you like it was is the red and black okay and i was like sure sure red and black always works yeah and it's matte black so that's that's even better oh this this soldering iron is falling apart that is nice so the tip was falling apart last time now it's the it's the connector on the other side fantastic um but yeah this was pretty late in the process that uh that they offered to send me by so i was like well you know if you want to send some i would appreciate it but like don't start printing stuff off in a rush just to get a different color scheme going like if you have some that's fine and if you're red and black that works perfectly well doesn't polycarbonate release vapors when really hot possibly but so does abs so you know but i'm not i mean hopefully it's not going to get that hot are we on zoom yeah we are and even at 280 degrees this still needs a lot of convincing to to sink in uh andreas is asking how many heaters and thermistors are you planning to use on the mosquito magnum plus so currently my mosquito magnet plus is outfitted with dual heaters and a single thermistor i believe yeah one thermistor two years it does take up to two heaters and two thermistors there is a recommend so thermistors are for redundancy basically if one of them fails um you have the second one to check against and if they diverge by too much basically the printer gets shut down but the it went in at an angle ah that was there was perspective it's wrong it's it's fine so thermistors are for redundancy the extra heater is to get you a i guess a 30 watt heater would run out of steam at the flow rates that um they're claiming so you have two but also two will allow you to get to higher temperatures now the thing with using two heaters in the mosquito magnum plus is they actually require or if you buy one you are required to agree to using an all metal mount for it as in from your from your carriage to the actual hotend you only have metal components which we do not have here so i guess in this configuration a um a dual heater setup would not be recommended or advised for by by slice engineering does do it or reproduce support dual heaters you can hook them up to a single output that's that's no problem um so that the the do-it boards that i have have plenty of power for well it's four amps drops a bit over four amps for supplying two heaters out of one output so that's that's fine so that's an extra sandwich part i believe does the magnum come with boring nitride applied um i don't know that's the extra one um i don't know if if they come assembled like that at all um so mosquito sent me or slice engineering sent me that mosquito which means it's probably been assembled more than you would get it assembled but i am not sure um but mine mine is in a ready to use state so we need m3 by 16 and m3 by s by 40. and i can find neither one so these are the m3 by 40s i know that much forbidden toothpaste from hell yeah don't don't bro i mean i guess you could brush your teeth with it but don't not recommend it in 2016 there they are um 100 watts or overkill probably probably yeah so these go in here i'm just going to assemble it without the hot end for now um i also need to trim the wires on that thing and get some yeah dropping stuff i do need to trim the wires and get some of those molex microfit junior connectors on it because i don't really want to run these wires through the drag chain i want to have the proper haloflane wiring going through that so you actually i still have oh i still have some zoom uh yeah these parts um [Music] these are i believe fiber reinforced now which i don't think is a recommended material but that's what i have for now i might i might reprint this i don't know extra hot and framey parts i might reprint this in polycarbonate as well so this is the mosquito mount that fits around the mosquito parts i might just reprint that in pc as well clipper undo it um yeah i do have actually i should probably insert the screws here first um i do have a do it three for this build does that actually thread into anything i do have a do it three on for this build which i do not believe um flipper runs on yet this especially because you need the um the can what is it it's it's some type of can protocol and you need that to communicate with the extension board which i will be using um so i'm whoops you're in crooked i am not sure i would be able to use a clipper for this build i will be using wrapper firmware um as it stands so two screws in here that don't really thread into anything will this threat into anything later possibly possibly those two i don't know but these m3540s they just go through like that and they stick out the back ever so slightly if i push any of them back oh oh okay we got some more i i thought that was all that they were getting but come on there we go okay so these are going to thread into something at some point so yeah like i said cool thing about this this fan shroud is you actually have look at that you have the part cooling fan sitting up top this entire area is for the hot and cooling fan you have the part cooling fan sitting up top and it gets ducted around the entire assembly and then it comes out the back so i guess you get some pretty cool air sucked in up top here um and you get some yeah you get some some really good cooling effect on the on your part if you're printing pla of course you can print pretty much everything with the war on because it's it's basically enclosed right uh is there a wiring diagram available for the war on 2.4 well the thing with wiring is there's not there's no like diagram etc needed you just go from your board to the component directly um i don't think there is routing wire routing per se in the um in the manual but that should be fairly easy to figure out because there's drag chain mounting points uh that should guide everything into the appropriate spots and then it's just finding a path from your main board in the very bottom compartment up to the component you go into so you know this entire wiring loom it's just straight wires from the main board to your component size should be pretty easy but of course if you crimp everything yourself that's going to be a bit of work just a bit of works pre-pre-wired wiring looms they're 120-130 bucks but worth it i would say i hate crimping so much all right so there is our carriage two screws oh there's two more screws there 130 bucks for some wires well it's 130 bucks for some wires plus the crimps the crimping the connectors and all that oh i just noticed i actually have a layer shift on this one whoops might need to reprint that or it might not yeah it's iffy if you want to spend the time yourself it sure go for it nobody's stopping you but especially well especially for a build like this where it's high condensate pump um especially for a build like this where there's people watching you guys wanting to be entertained somehow i guess getting pre-crimped stuff is worth it for sure just to save some time so you i see okay so these two screws go into these two threaded inserts and then we have two more screws i guess this is the point where i should trim the belt or i can just squish it down and pretend it isn't there not quite i mean again i'll be taking this off anyways i'll be taking this off again and installing the hotend anyways so just get this on so yeah i'm just going to pretend the the belt isn't there fold them back into the little cavity yeah enough of enough of cavity uh available right now so there's two more m3 by 16s squeeze that thread into those top holes those two top latches so right up here there's two more bits that go in actually what what am i doing why am i screwing this together by hand i've got a power tool for this [Music] look at that look at that torque limiter look at that clutch come on there we go that was basically the perfect amount of torque don't tighten them too much well whoops yeah we'll pretend those belts aren't there so those are in that's the theoretically where the hotend goes that's it um right test fit housing make sure to test fit the haunted housing yep clockwork heat sets so this is the extruder that we're building next those are in stops just location needs to be slightly loose yeah there's a bit of a gap because we've squeezed in the belt but don't worry about it this is coming off again anyways tapping plastic with an electric screwdriver i'm surprised that the clutch on this guy is light enough to not strip these though it's fine um right scooter so i guess i guess you are going [Music] off to the side for now and we're building the extruder next which is going to sit on that on that carriage somewhere i'm just going to leave all the parts on the table for now because we are running pretty low on that is is that an extra no that is a cable cover that we're going to need later we are running pretty low on printed parts and i think we can spare the space that this takes up it's an exciting time every time the power driver comes out uh trust me it is exciting for me as well so we need let me see so we probably need this that looks extrudery we need this i can already see this on the oh and we do need heat sets so let me preheat this we do need this part um we also need this this is the drag chain mount with the three holes so that is the generic drag chain mount and there is the other one with the tool holes which is for uh genuine eagles drag chains two holes three holes then anything else oh yeah this little hook thingy is that this no there is a little hooker that is i think the smallest part in the now now we've got these two nut carriers um almost the smallest part in the entire belt we don't need real alignment parts we don't need these we're gonna need later and there is another part for hotend mounting so if you were using a i guess this is for a dragon or something um you would use this instead of the part that we just used so we're not going to use that either we're not going to need that either heat sets one two three four and then three more for the generic mount all right so let's get those heats set you need one in the end you need some here here's a little fan shroud little air guide so this side gets a single heatset insert in that whole all right let's get you in while he's still at it well what did you expect did you expect me to give up sean that goes in so much more satisfyingly smooth than into polycarbonate wow and then these go in from that side next page is also all the heat sets more more heat sets oh more heat sets okay so we have more parts coming up so let's do these thanks a lot let's see these and then the rest thanks for the well thought through stream i really enjoy them every time smiley face some kind of timetable to see the next stream date would be nice how thank you for the five level user um glad you're enjoying the streams timetable for now is every other day at 5pm cest that's i think what i've been doing for the last couple uh and that is the plan going forward from this from this one now i don't know how much time i'm going to need in between streams from now on out when it comes to doing wiring or doing some other stuff that i don't want to have on camera because it might be boring but yeah 5 pm cst every other day that is the plan the trulinky there are contacts well not forms but there are the best way if you want to send me something for testing which to be honest i'm not sure if i'm going to have the time to test individual components my videos video schedule is already so full is uh where is it toms3.org minus guidelines that has basically everything on there that you need to know when it comes to sending me stuff for testing and it's got all the you know hey sending me a poet for review does not mean i'm gonna review it um it's got all those conditions those those terms and conditions on there um just so we're not getting like false folks and false expectations and also for everyone else watching this is you know when i when i review stuff that is have a have a look through those terms or through those guidelines um those i stick to for every single product i review which is like hey you don't get the video before you don't get to see the video before i publish it uh if there are flaws i'm going to point them out i'm not accepting payment all that is is in there on that page for everyone to see and that page also has the email address for you know getting in touch if you want to send stuff so one two three heat sets in here we need the one in the end of this little bit now it's going to be a tricky set to heat tricky heat to set will send me food if i review it my mama told me not to take food from strangers so there's those three done so more heat sets so that's the part that i said looks like an extruder part and i was right ha a nice smart uh this is not the part that i'm looking for but it looks like it no it's not what are you then oh that's okay that's just the back all right all right so let's go through them one by one let's start with this one right here you go in here the other four when i said it'll be fun they said where it'll be easy they said nobody said this would be a quick stream or a quick build or anything i was told it would be like 25 hours and so far i think i'm making especially for being on stream on camera for the entire build i think i'm making pretty good progress i'm pretty proud of myself there and that i don't think is getting a heatset that is the filament path how ha that's hot um i guess he could put a heatsink in there and then drill it out and you'd have a or would you need to drill it out you could put an m2 in there drill it out and you have like a metal filament guide in the filament path why don't you stand up here we go so two more in the back we did the one on this side two more in the back so on the very outside edges you were really fasting for a first where especially for the first war on well i i've built a printer before it's not like this is my first rodeo it's my first build of a war on but i love that one's crooked i like to think that i'm familiar with the like the basic concepts of building a printer all right yeah that's straight enough uh this should be sized for a bowdoin tube okay let me see there should be some ptsd included i thought we needed some longer bits i thought the printer would eventually need some longer bits so let's see if this fits yeah well yeah but it does grip onto it pretty well i'm guessing it should go pretty far down okay because there is a there is like a little visor slot um oh come on lighting help me there there that that slot right there i i guess that is to oh yeah on the bottom as well and that is to indicate like how far you've pushed the filament whether the filament the the bone tube in so that's going to be a bit of a of a tight fit um oh yeah you're right you're right um that is just to visibly see if the filament is in because bone tube doesn't go in that far that's gonna be a bit of a tight fit but we're gonna make that work um with the correct piece of phone tube uh will this be your first clip experience as well no it will not be i know it's blasphemy but this printer is not gonna run flipper i'm sorry it's gonna run wrapper firmware on a do it three oh i said okay um drive pinion so we need some extruder parts here i guess i'm gonna need to make this fat at some point where to put your what am i stepping on oh just an empty bag we do have some extruder parts somewhere around here lots of pieces will come with you extra pieces tractions oh hold on we have some screws included oh we have some screws included i just found some screws in the pack from slice engineering there are some screws included and there's also a part cooling fan which i don't think we're going to use so they did include the screws that's good i guess that is part of the that's not the pack that's supposed to be in there but yeah that is included with the mosquitoes where did i put my extruder points out there they are there they are so they come in like a little plastic tray so let's have a look at these extruder bits that we're getting here so first thing i'm seeing is brass and typically when you see brass in a box intended for extruder parts that is a big red flag going up but uh this is just a brass um actually a proper gear that meshes with this guy so it has a that's a lot that is like three to one basically and close to three to one gearing this goes on the stepper motor uh this goes on onto these bond tech style drive gears so bontec knockoffs essentially oh that's the that's the one that's getting the bearing uh this one gets clamped down onto here and then we basically have and the i guess the bontec lgx knockoff sort of or [Music] uh i guess the himera is basically the same concept as well with a pancake motor with a relatively small pancake style motor and a gearing step first with like industrial or injection molded or proper gears that are not 3d printed and then you have your dual drive setup basically bmg extruder repackaged for the afterburner for effect yep that's what it that motor just made a funny noise that's what it looks like and then there's a little uh a tension adjustment screw oh why are you sticky do you love it when you have fresh parts that are already uh sticky um right there's two tiny bearings included i have no idea how long these are gonna last but look at that these are minuscule there's my finger for scale yeah and then that little those little roller bearings for the idle side of the dual drive gears loop those up where's the axle of the tension idler there it is there is that so that's what the these two roller bearings are going to run on inside the idler side so these two bearings are going in here like that and that's going to ride on that axle okay so let's try and assemble this least oriented correctly now one thing to note is uh this motor has a wire attached to this is like 40 centimeters or something 40 45 and i would prefer these not to have any wires on them i would prefer to have these with the regular connectors just because it makes wiring easier you're not going to get this down to the board you're not going to run this wire in the drag chain at least you shouldn't though this feels fairly soft so what you're going to have to do is or what i'm going to have to do as well is to cut these off at like five or six centimeters put a little microfit junior connector on it and then put a microfiber junior connector on the wiring loom as well which is already on there and just have like an extra connector right there instead of being able to plug in straight into the motor so yeah um that's gonna be a crimping job in the future that i see coming up right but i'll try to match the uh the wiring direction as well so this is hold on driver pinion spacing 3.2 millimeters that is oddly specific uh okay so i guess there's there's not a lot of space in this entire extruder assembly so let's try and do 3.2 millimeters with the set screw going away from the motor and that's going to get some thread lock on as well there we go so we need a little 1.5 mill that's you oh that's uh that's an m3 set screw i hate those ah fidlock rf equals marlin no rep rep firmware is the firmware that is made by the guys um who make the duet boards so that's i mean it's a farmer that can run on i think on more than just the do it boards but uh it is well that set screw is rather short as well [Music] yeah but it is kind of specifically made for yeah that's too long though it's kind of specifically made for the duet boards at least made by the same team so of course it's going to have the optimizations for that in there first now how do i space out 3.2 millimeters i guess i guess i'll just use a screw kind of as an optical indicator and i i sight this down side that's going to be the closest to 3.2 millimeters that i'll get um if i put another one in the back yeah these screws are three millimeters so if i go slightly above that okay this is like an open sight that i'm using these like um but just for height there we go so that should be good enough it should be aligned well enough and numbers from the cat just needs to be closed well and the thing is if it's if it's like 3.2 millimeters if you're giving me you know tenth of a millimeter as as the spec like i'm gonna try to stick to that as closely as possible measure the height from the central part i still don't have my my calculation i would need to get those but yeah i think that is close enough might be yeah as nero's saying it might be a bit over yeah it's fine it's fine it's fine really so you're on here then make sure to orient the motor on the drive plate so that the wires are on the left side this will allow correct routing to the cable cover that will be installed later hey and welcome thomas as a as a youtube member that is much appreciated youtube members by the way um monthly hangouts roughly monthly hangouts um with your questions answered kind of like or exactly the same as the the the equal patron tier if you want to join in on as well um yeah you guys there's a join channel or become a member button below so this goes with this little cutout towards the wiring side so it goes on like that and i think we started with one single screw yeah adjustable motor position okay is adjustable to allow for properly meshing of the drive gears you start in the top most position of the slot but check this check this cord yeah that's the kind of the standard the standard wording in the manual check this code if you have any issues so this is a bit of a yeah this one has a just tiniest amount of adjustability and we need an m three by eight for this so actually such clean prints yeah they are from the um war on printed forward team what's the what's the wait list like for those right now last i checked there was like 104 prints still needed to be done so if you if you applied for a printed forward heights kit at that time there would be a 104 kits to be printed before yours would be done so i did i'm not sure what that is like right now 11 months well like i said if this works out and if the add-on i'm building for this printer which would allow to print stuff continuously works out i'm i'm seriously considering joining uh printed forward as as well because it's just it's insane getting waiting elf elf waiting 11 months for your parts is that's that's rough that's worse than a prusa mini m3x8 so i'm not going to tighten this one down all the way yet check placement ensure that the filament drive gear is fully seated against the drive gear shaft okay so that goes on all the way so you no that's the that's the idler side we don't need you you with the gear all the way against that gear whether you're using a bit like this kind of helps you not strip not strip the thread or strip the as close as i can get uh not stripped the one and a half millimeter uh hex key or hex slot what is this called the the mate that this key goes into uh because these are pretty easy to to damage and again i do prefer just m4 set screws because they are they are so much harder to mess up and this is wow that's especially rough because this is like a two millimeter uh length screw so it doesn't even sit it doesn't even sit straight on my key here so it only starts to straighten out once i get the thread started here wow so you need to sit all the way against the gear we're already zoomed in but these parts are pretty tiny there you go take that off just to make sure we're not getting any thread lock in our gearing that would be unnecessary eagles change like mid august as well wow supply chains are are a mess right now for apparently for everything so i mean it's great that he can get these parts at all i'm like i don't know if that's gonna get better though as more and more people build morons and just the printer series gets more and more exposure tricked the autofocus tried to focus on my hand got you on the gear check clearance make sure the driveshaft is not rubbing on the extruder motor you can sand the face of the drive shaft if required all right so we need okay so there is the tight new tiniest lip in this bearing see there's a little tiny tiny lip in the back let's look at you in here make sure it's not rubbing on them how would i check that i can't exactly see in there okay so what i'm seeing oh this this might be this might be really hard to show so in the center of the bearing you can see a bit of a pin or a pinhole that is from this shaft that is turned down with the um with the tool slightly off center so there's just a tiniest little nub sticking out the center of that shaft honestly i don't think that's an issue uh especially because it's in the center it's in the very center so that's not going to cause any friction at all is it because it would be offset oh waste case it would be half familiar so yeah that's i'm gonna say that's not an issue it still does run fine um right so we should check the clearance clearance is non-existent and basically now it's just hold on where does the where's the idler shaft go idler shaft goes appears oh did we skip that nope the idler shaft just appeared five pinion yeah there it is no hold on that's the that's the that's the gear hold on hold on hold on now we've got the other shaft okay okay um so why are we putting this on and we need to put the drive shaft in would be the idler shaft in a second anyways right oh no that goes into okay that goes into an idler arm that's assembled from the side all right all right my brain is not working well so this basically gets assembled completely at this point with with some three by thirties yeah so through my thirties thankfully i have like half of the war on deaf team kind of keeping tabs on me so i mean so far i don't think i've managed to mess up sadly is uh are the piv parts done with ironing is what n is asking uh no they are not as far as i can tell so there is the printed forward hearts maybe it can get you a bit of reflection it is a very smooth top layer but it's uh it's not ironed mine are mine are um done with so the my extruder parts are done with ironing but i think that was more of a detriment to the ah where are we at that's more of a detriment to the fit of the parts than than anything so where do you go how do you is that even the right part yes it is oh okay so that then obviously this side this slot that i just showed that's not that's not gonna be visible so you don't get to check the filament all right so this goes on like so no how does this go on [Music] like so okay i had it backwards it goes on like this there's there's in a lot of these parts there's like little lips that line up with little parts that that kind of join up um not sure if these have like any functional value but they're there for alignment and they tell you okay you've assembled it correctly when just all the parts line up so the bearings pressed in um do we screw these together okay we do so one of these sides gets an m3 by 30. the other side gets an m3 by 30 as well but this one gets that little hook latched onto that screw i guess somehow why are you swiveling where did that fight go where is this point going we put it we put a heatsink heat set in it so it's it's part of the printer where'd he go supposedly i'm supposedly this part goes in there somewhere it disappears inside the body push it all right and i'll try and push it so the manual says something like this and then you just you push it push it in where are you going but this isn't how far oh so like that i do not understand so i i guess and it does look like this wraps around the um the drive here but like were this supposed to fit in like that no yes yes no yes it's held in there by the latch you missed the top lever so the top okay i'm guessing something like this then in the end and that's what that would screw in but something oh so okay okay so this guy still goes in and then you go in like that okay now this makes sense okay because now that part is being held in place so that's that's in place but we do need this extra part which the manual has not mentioned yet to keep that part in place okay just leave it in there for now okay if it doesn't fall out on itself i'll leave it in there oops it fell out so that side i don't think needs to be tensioned down well i guess it should both get tensioned down pretty well don't drop these bearings because you need both uh you have the updated version of the clockwork the manual still has the older version yeah that's that's one thing that i'm noticing quite a couple times that the manual is in need of updating but we we we will manage do these bearings need some grease i feel like they do because they are completely dry and dry bearings do run well buds okay so loop these up what is that noise in the house right now like the dogs are howling uh i'ma get some lube i'm gonna get some high temperature lubrication one second please [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay uh quick check on the dogs i guess i guess uh my dog bell was howling uh she likes to do it when the phone rings so that tells me that probably the phone rang well ah dogs are the best so we've got some grease in a box in a pot uh i don't think i'm even gonna need much of this this is um fairly cheap uh high temperature grease varying grease should be the right stuff and i always keep a little brush right next to that just so i have something to apply it with so basically now um it comes back with a with a kind of w40 no i would never use wd-40 for this stuff like this never and you shouldn't either so basically just uh you get some grease that should be good all greased up and that's the uh that's gonna be tricky without getting grease all over my finger too late push it in there have a label i make on my label maker that says level maker i might have and then you go in there like this and i guess this clicks in place yeah it does okay that is well greased up i do like a good a good application of some some proper lube like that usually makes stuff you know just doesn't wear stuff out as quickly it makes it run smoother yeah totally works and yeah thick grease even though i'm told it's not the best for like linear bearings where you have the recirculating balls for actual bearings it is very very good will this grease make pc parts crack i do not know might be something to experiment with though all right let's keep moving so lubrication oh even it even says so all right eila goes on with another m3 by 30. where are you in 3x30 um though these parts are all abs and i think abs should be less sensitive to this this sort of stuff okay so you go in there you go in there and that screws i'm gonna go through that so i guess you need to go in here can i attach this yet i guess i should attach it later so you go through okay there's a tiny inspector that's fine so that's pretty tight [Music] that's what we have power tools for that feels about right all right oh and we need a spring yeah sure um that's in m three by twenty you okay you go in there just enough so the hingy bit is in there the tensiony bit is in there so that i guess needs to go through here yep that's hooked on and then that gets locked in place with the latchy lock and the spring is going to go on the idler in a second here [Music] too much oh yeah it does it does latch down okay so that was not too much that was not too much okay so that goes open up this guy there we go oh that's tight spring on here screw it in there less torque clutch uh it's already on the lowest setting and then this should just do go have the uh so the latch part might have jumped out for some reason i guess the or the um let's call it the part that come on uh the part that holds the tensioner screw so in place to go further back and then you can reinsert you nope the way around you can reinsert you all right and you can go back in [Music] and that should be a functioning extruder that should be a functional extruder overall so there's your tension adjustment this is an unlock lock unlock it does latch onto that little hook okay all right that hook is basically butted up against the idler it could it be part of your eyelid no it can't be part of the idler because um this hook against the eyelid this is what's giving you that um that spring tension i'm having a hard time showing this this is what's giving you that spring tension for actually tensioning against the filament basically that gets pushed in and this gets clamped down and that flushes up um the eject lever with the eyelet here i agree it needs to go in all the way okay okay so now it's locked uh do you need to loop the altitude here the outer teeth of the bond tigers um probably not super necessary though i could do that now you can always still get in there um looping up those those teeth however it is pretty close to the actual drive section of the drive gear so i'm not sure if that would be an issue at some point okay bond tickers aren't meshed how would i know so yeah if it's i guess if it's like that it's like that it's not meshed it's not in all the way so this wouldn't dry filament as it's still coming out but when it's in like that then that would get them meshed i think you have the teeth of your um of your gearing in there and this does feel smooth this feels like there's nothing binding or grabbing or causing any other issues this does feel very smooth now would this need to be lubed i don't know that's a palm gear as far as i can tell um or nylon gear and that typically is self-lubricating and there shouldn't be like super high forces on it it's a tiny stepper you need to tighten it more well yeah i mean you can tighten that more with the with the adjustment screw at some point um okay but that is the extruder done i would say a little more bits of uh of traction holder that we still have there is that screen cap let's see what's next plastic washer is gone can use a plastic washer yeah there is still a plastic washer where is that plastic washer going plastic washer whoa between the printed part and spring oh okay all right well if it's just in there that's like if you're rubbing against the plastic washer where plastic printed quite like that shouldn't make a difference i guess somewhere there then perfect so remove the screws what we're taking apart the stepping motor wow okay i guess i did not expect that i did not expect they were taking apart the the stepper motor today so these two are gonna need to come out and these are regular phillips so the ones around the yeah next to the drive gear or the gearing gear gearing gear aren't all gears gearing gears i mean i guess you can use this thing as as just a screwdriver [Music] if you need to her taken about steppers is unsafe is that true i don't know i'm not sure how much you would damage then i've taken the part steppers in the past and they still work actually they don't still work fine they they feel like they're they're um like if you've ever taken apart a stepper it has its rotor with like those little teeth these little notches and it has the stator outside of it which has kind of the same style of teeth meshing into that or not meshing into that ideally with a thin air gap around it and it feels like after i had taken apart that stepper and reassembled it it feels like sometimes they would they would catch and the stepper would get mechanically stalled by the stator meshing into the rotor so there might be some truth to it um not because yeah not because you're you're like letting the magnetism escape or whatever it's because you wouldn't be able to reassemble it as precisely again as you as the factory did i think that is that's what's causing that but yeah taking out two screws should be fine as kristoff is pointing out uh so what jeff your name is jeff well what was what is up with jeff um anyways moving on we've got two two screws removed we're going to replacing these in further steps oh i think there's the further step we're replacing them um what are you make sure you look at the next two pages of the manual the sequencing gets weird on the next part okay so what are we up for so we've got the the guide or the mount for the drag chain that looks like a wire cover yep that's accent colored printed this little i i think that's a wire cover and that also looks like it might but it's just barely not going over the stepper holes but it is it is okay and then so there's one screw going into okay that's the threaded insert that we put in earlier so basically oh that part just snaps over the screw heads over not under simply hangs off the heads of the m3x20s and then there's the one and three by eight that actually holds in place interesting so m3 by 20 m3 by 20 going this into a stepper motor directly so like that and there's like little sticky audi bits that actually go into um ends of the d10s where the the cutaway bits on the back plate of the stepper m3 by 20. where are the why am i looking for this for the same screws every every single time like every time i need to screw i'm seeing all the screws but it's the one that i actually need is that like something you guys are seeing too when you're building something you always find all the parts except the ones that you're actually trying to find i feel like 20. those feel long but i guess yeah that's that's about the right length then [Music] there we go just the right amount of torque and then basically we have so you go out the back and then this just latches over those two screws and yeah i can see the the spacing is ever so slightly off on these so the spacing on the red accent part is a bit tighter a bit closer together than on the screw so you actually have to push it over and it's held in place by pushing apart that red piece a bit i don't know if that is intentional but it sure it sure feels intentional that's one extra m3 by 80 f m3x8 that holds that cover in place or secures in place and that is actually enough space um that is like plenty of space in there like you can see how much how much of a canopy that's spanning up um to have for example the molex microfit junior connectors for the extruder motor that adapt this thing to the wiring room that i have motor wire goes out the rear here's the thing when you guys say front and rear i still kind of don't know what you're referring to with front and rear like i would think this would be the front because it has warren design logo on it but it could also be the back this goes out the back take the screw out there we go now it's up the what i guess is the back steppers on the rear yeah make sense so that's done m3x8 that's on there okay that why is there a style change you see that like this is very fine line and also be like yeah you're seeing me now you you're seeing the outlines now uh so this gets mounted to let me see to what not to the tool head yet uh just double checking that there is nope nope so that gets mounted to the tool head in a second with a couple of screws but we're basically okay so we need a hard cooling fan that's the one up top here uh we need a hotend cooling fan this one down there and then then our extruder gets attached to the x carriage and then the fan assembly gets attached on top of the extruder all right okay updated parts with the with a different style yeah because the style oh slightly changes um okay so fans fan shrouds we're finally using the um the part from the thumbnail uh the one with the big boron label on there that does look kind of suspicious um you and i think i already grabbed the choreography radial fan that's actually going to sit in that part so you go in here so you go in here you don't go in here you just okay so you just sit up against that and look like you go in here so that might be a bit of a mismatch between what the printed part is designed for and what because the hat is absolutely not going in there a bit of a mismatch between what the printed part is designed for and what the kit actually supplied because that does not fit and i don't think the other way around would fit either huh take the front off and read the manual that's the manual that's all the manual says the manual literally doesn't say anything about that um the manual isn't correct is there a newer used link from the previous message okay so this is a manual that i did download um when i started the build which is oh how am i gonna get that from the usb live hold on that's gonna be a second um because i do have i do have this one computer running the entire stream in obs and all that and i've got the other computer um just showing the manual so let me just save that on here real quick and then we're gonna have a an updated manual okay download the curriculum but that's not a spare usb drive or is that something else i'm trying to jam that into okay all right now how does this work in windows like that oh yeah update how do i get into explorer without a keyboard that is that the explorer yeah now look i still had the um parts from the pr 6261 and the ft 52 build on there updated manual so that is version 2001.1.20 look at all the stuff we've already built oops there was like it feels it's feels like it's a towel there we go feels like we've already done so much in the build now how do i get into full screen without pressing f11 uh i might need to flip this guy over real quick no hold on is there an f11 on the on the keyboard nah okay i'll just flip next to zoom hold on there it is okay perfect ah convertibles they're fun um no windows windows is surprisingly well optimized for use on a touchscreen only device but then again if you don't if you're not used to using it on a touchscreen only device it's like uh it's rough at times it's not it's not super intuitive so where we are at so we did that oh and there's more details on how everything's supposed to latch together okay that that would have been helpful separate blower housing and then there's some filament that goes in there okay i would have missed that as well yeah that we can see it on on this one um barely if you use what's the other part that goes along with that not this one this one see there's also a hole through here that goes like this i would say yeah let's just connect it with some filament uh follow page 72 from that manual revision and continue with yours afterwards okay so i'm not going to be doing i'm not going to be doing anything from this then all right okay so we need to separate the blower housing this is an older manual the pages you're working on now went missing during recent update okay separate blower housings this one basically just snaps off like so now we've left we're left with the spare fan cage and then we insert you in here okay that works out so now we have that that vacuum intake shroud exposed here okay that works out is there i'm just gonna need to figure out how this gets mounted but we'll do that with the other manual and then we need some filament we need some filament is there i don't think there's filament included in the kit no let's film it let me grab some filament then ah what are your no your ptg actually ptg should work even though these are abs parts gonna use some flexible [Music] play play asa well it's still sealed i'll just see some ptg that should be all right actually i think the one with the section with the gears or with the gearing from the extruder on it should work as well uh how loud are these fans compared to doctors no idea i haven't run them yet but typically um fan noise is mostly proportional to fan performance so yeah if you use a knock to the fn you will need to have everything else optimized for that knock to a fan as well or you might run into issues with hard cooling interesting okay so we've done that we've done that now it is time now that's the save [Music] uh download that's the assembly manual that i've got come on that is version 20 21 05 20. so this is the new one that unfortunately has the page missing for the fans and stuff oh we're way past hold on there we go okay so we've done that actually is that page 79 no so the page number is not missing it's just that the content is missing and three by sixteen and three by thirty and three by thirty and three by twenty let's do these in order and three by sixteen well as the fan below the rpm you can run it fast very clear throughput yeah that works for um it works up to a point that works for a point but not not really universally so u u and then we have another part we have u i think maybe no that's like the only part that would fit though mine looks slightly different no no mine does not look slightly different there is that notch i was looking for for this notch on the side here and it's there it's there it's right there so you go on like so but we need to have the fan in there like so and the question is where does the wire go basically we can insert it into that side first and it does fit pretty well wire goes somewhere i guess i should release it from the back from the strain release restrain the leaf okay and then yeah i guess that comes out on the side here and now this all gets screwed together so two in the top may wires come out the back okay to the top that is the m3 by 16s are these 16s yes they are one up top and this is threading into plastic so i'm going to be uh quite careful i'm not going to use the power tool because we have very little plastic to thread into and if we over thread it into plastic like that's that's the end of that story just looking for the gap to close on the side between the red and the black parts and yeah that's going to be enough that's going to be way enough i still got the petg poking through so that's that that's the top fan assembled now there are two more screws going through from the front to the back that's two m3 by 30 so i don't think those thread into anything yet those are going to fit into whatever we mount this to so that's those two right there those just barely stick out but of course once we eat with we're going to need those in a second and those stick to the slightest amount and then next we have our extruder that mounts to our x carriage okay so that took me a minute so we're setting this part aside again you go you go away for now and we jump back to our xy gantry oh there's one more fan oh i guess i i could put this one in as well so you here are you supposed to clip in so something snapped into place but not there we go if you lift it into place or if you tilt it into place from the top starting out and then that's going to work and then this wire is going to go up through here i would think it comes out the side over there ah like this i guess that looks like it's routed the wires exit up top while it's as top as it gets it's like at a 45. so would i would one over actually be better i can even get the out hopefully i'm not going to snap this off now that's all coming out that is not coming out nope well i guess that's just the way that these are going to be road i see okay could it could get routed out that that little bit on the side here so cook it right out right there oh well that's in there at least it's not going to rattle around but now we have an m3 by 30 and an m3 by 20 that attaches it to the extruder body there's two m3 30s we're going to need those in a second here are 30 m3 by 20 where are those so there's a 30 there's a 20. there's nothing so let me see if i can figure this out there is some dovetail magic happening here somehow we've got two parts that look like they they should mate together here somehow but i don't think they do except they made together like this right okay that because that is not dovetails that is actually the air guides for the part cooling fan which bypasses the uh the hot including fan you go on here like that and then it's a 20 and a 30 going through where am i oh it's going to care no okay so we're first mounting the extruder to the carriage and then we're mounting everything else together i guess so you go on the side for now and then xy carriage first the extruder goes on here i guess there's only one way for this to go on because there's uh interesting there's a bit of keying going on for these parts to actually mate together in a very specific way all right and then the right one is getting an m3 at 20 which is this one and then the left one's getting an m3 by [Music] 30. [Music] okay ah remove the wiring cover for now but i just put that on okay there is our tool it is starting to take shape look at that it is starting to become quite a long boy uh with we i mean we're gonna have the um the fans on top here but yeah with the extra long fan shroud wow so we got that we got two of the is going to poke going to poke them through the fan shroud and now the fan shroud goes on to the extruder okay 2 3 by 30 and then somehow so i really need to rotate the hotend fan where the wires will break okay i'm going to try and rotate this so all right didn't sound good but i made it out i was afraid something would break but thankfully nothing did so that is now in at least a bit more nicely and then you there's a little wiring shroud here there you go you go outside here you go to the side here and theoretically this just goes on like so just onto the cool head [Music] should actually put into four just to get something happening um and then this part this uh hotend cooling fan is still kind of wobbly of course this doesn't have a hotend in there yet i'm gonna put the hotend in there at a later date m3 by 12. uh fake soon on spec or fake sunon fans i was told these are like the china spec so they may not be available on the international market but they may be a genuine pseudonym fan just of a lower quality so hinge you can trim the extra filament oh now now the extra filament is actually caught that was something that we didn't have before before this was just entirely loose there you go no more catfish look and there is the i guess the most characteristic part of the war on installed it's afterboard half the burner fan shroud deluxe with all the accent pieces uh the latching extruder it should be able to come out all that it's starting to look like a printer at least the the base of the printer right next wait you're doing we're doing the cable shroud again next i guess we're actually getting these into uh what are we doing belting z drive so let me just figure out what's happening here um we've got what looks like belt clamps you see so that's the idlers up top oh yeah by the way i wanted to show that ha bone tube yeah that's going to go in later um the angry z-idlers that is what the warren team sent me that's where that idea of the angry z-exercise came from they do have the eyebrows we already have the angry eyebrows there so yeah um that's what those are and it looks like actually in the manual they don't have the eyebrows yet interesting so belting the z drive each z-axis is going to get its own belts now what are you z joints well that appears to be an adapter where the um the carriage on the linear rail goes on here and then what does that attach to though ah those make no sense at all hold on so at which point what are we doing belt routing that's what the belt routing is going to end up like so basically this is what is this this is what we have on our xy gantry already so that is these parts up here that's these bits up here including the um the belt tensioners so that is the belt tensioners on here and the z belts get clamped onto ok so they get clamped onto these blocks on here that we already have on the xy gantry to not over tighten the z joints they're supposed to have some give to them all right so what is this then why is the belt running through on this one ah that that makes no sense at all to me because it should be clamped like this why is that image in there all right melting blocks to z carriages um just trying to figure out what we're starting with here so these go on the bottom there somehow and all of a sudden we had the lcd screen whew that's getting mighty thin those instructions are getting mighty mighty thin uh yeah there's also no yeah that's that's the attaching it to the xy gantry all right let's just go through step by step so step number one is assembling the z what's called a z joint here that's most of these parts here so no yes so these are going to be four mostly identical parts one two three four and you we're not going to eat though there are some belt clamps that look like they're gonna come in handy at some point um that's these these are the blocks that attach to the carriages one two three four um these are parts i have no idea what they do but they what do we do i have some belt clamping to them oh these are the okay these are the extruder parts right these are the extruder plies that we didn't need so um these are obsolete so we're basically left with just a couple of parts and this is also one that we do not need these we need in a previous step so just a couple of printed parts left and you are the block that is attaching the bottom rail to the x carriage which we did not use so let's double check we have the that that top block we have that and we have that bottom block and we have our belt what looks like belt clamps so i'm not sure if they are belt they oh yeah they go on the bottom that's where they when they clamp so m five hex nut so we're basically going to build four of these uh m five by 40 four of them and then four m three by thirties and that plastic washer we don't exactly need because that's the part of the extruder that we did not use and m3 by 30s this is the only really confusing part of the build the m5 that holds the joints together also clamps the belts down okay and then these bits have a cutout for an m5 nut that's going in here to be honest i mean the manual is still better than the manual that i got with some of the chinese printers so yeah and those those chinese printers cost money and this is an open source uh an open source design that you know nobody's charging for so i i can give that a bit of slack okay so this is this is interesting so i was wondering why these parts had like uh a ball joint surface on the bottom of them these also have sort of a ball joint on the other direction so these go together like so and i guess the idea is that allows it to kind of self adjust ever so slightly don't power tool these m5s uh the m5 nuts will spin otherwise what if i set it to the lowest torque though what if i leave this on the very lowest work setting is there an orient there is an orientation to these and that is with yeah with this side that has the little cutout a little bit there facing the the surface that mates with the um meets with the carriage so no power tools just putting it in here by hand then so i i was reading these are supposed to have a bit of slack to them so i'm gonna leave them with a bit of slack i mean there's not a lot of rotational freedom there there's like that's like two or three millimeters or something um but i guess that should take up any sort of like tolerance and misalignment or something so repeat that one more times now what does the m3 screw do manual still calls for an m3 by 30 and i guess that is a locking screw in that case then oh no hold on what am i what am i doing what am i doing um i'm missing two screws okay i'm missing two screws i'm missing two screws in this bit right here so i've got the screw i've got that's the next step so there's a screw going in here i'm not gonna be able to tighten that down hold on hold on hold on so two screws capture in this upper piece and they thread into something so we're not assembling like i guess we shouldn't assemble this bottom piece yet uh because otherwise you're not going to be able to get to those screws at all i guess that's just for visualization later okay so that's where that clamps a belt onto an xy gantry in the frame yeah i'm seeing your chat enjoy an adult beverage after the stream show i guess the hold on so the order of operation i'm thinking of right now is attaching these bottom blocks to the carriages to the z carriages first uh then attaching these upper blocks to the xy gantry and clamping the belt next because these are these top clamps are separate these bottom ones we can clamp and then once we've got once we've got the top parts clamped to the xy gantry we can set the xy gantry onto the bottom blocks and we can use that long m5 screw that i just assembled and i don't want to i don't think i should assemble at this point from this one now we can use that to attach everything together okay that's that's quite the brain tees to figure out but i think i think that should work i think that should give us a way to assemble these now all i need are my m5 by something screws there you go my m5 by 30s tie everything together so um you you and you will save you for later come on you i have no idea where you going you're going on the bottom of these so we will need you now we also need the m5 by 30s now there and we do need the nut in there so because that would be that would be impossible to get in later it'll be easier if it has the bottom part of the z belt to the gantry and clamp then all you have to do later is clamp the top right of rather than the z builds yep that's i think that is exactly what i'm trying to do that is the button head these screws are going to fall out again anyways so grab the gantry and flip it upside down sounds like a plan add the belts make them flush with the other side or gantry on the bottom then run the m5 and three down that is exactly what i'm what i'm planning on doing thank you for that jared jared jared co1 so again tree gantry so the belts are going to run towards the inside so towards the inside okay so i route it through these holes right there one goes no right okay so that hole is for the uh for the side of the belt that is not being clamped out clamped down and then these the belt goes up in the wind on the bottom down in the way all right whoo so you go like this you like this and then you go up and the other side has a little clamp piece on there so we can do that separately so you go on like this this guy has the nut trapped in it and then you go on with no hmm you need some peanuts so we're not going to be able to screw in anything if there are no t-nuts in these slots however this hole is occupied so i was told not to use the not to occupy the hole on the other side and we did leave this one free but it's it's the exact same situation on the motor mounts versus up here yeah did you square the gantry um i did do some squaring though i'm thinking the squaring comes later so this i don't think is gonna work i can get this one in and now the question is can i get another m5 t-nut in here as well probably not is there anything [Music] yeah this is going to run around the frame right i'm not going to have this stick out on that side so nope that's going to push the m3 nut in oh no there we go so i guess this this screw is going to have to move there's a hammerhead in five that's actually not too bad of an idea so let's grab a hammerhead thankfully we do have some of these here 20 20 and five oh i also have but these are probably oh hold on these are perfect so i've got my my box of uh 2020 m5 and i've got three diff hoping they're not spilling these got the classic hammerhead which sucker is a spring-loaded one there we've got the flow drilled ones and we have these so these just slide in kind of like the um what are they called peanuts but these are much shorter than the m5 t-nut so i can maybe maybe like that one so these are a lot shorter they have the hole in the center and you can only slide them in from the side on the on the aluminum profile but oh nice nice does not stick out that is actually my second favorite type of of nut for these rails for these aluminum i keep calling them rails but they're aluminum extrusions aluminium mixtures if you if you want to do that so we have an m3 hammond m3 nut in here we have an m5 whatever those are called nothing there we need the belt clamp we need the we need the nut to not fall out please [Music] need the belt this is definitely the trickiest part now just four more times i've almost got it thanks for the tip uh samuel just at the right moment ah that's a three okay that's the right one [Music] okay are you guys saying like hey uh if i'm saying this is the trickiest part i don't know what's to come [Music] yeah belt is attached the block is on there okay this is basically flush uh make sure you have some spare belt well yeah i'm that's the plan for now just to leave everything with a bit of slack so now just rinse and repeat uh three more times as uh as we've done a couple times already right can't be that hard so m3 so this one thankfully has plenty of space so we can slide this in with this orientation i think we would even be able to use an m5 um stay in focus please we could even use the m5 spring loaded tina there so can we do that because oh i how did i push this in so far how did it push this in so far wow well that's going to be a pain to get out so it's now aligned with the hole in the in the linear rail so when you're trying to move stuff like this just use something that is pointy way at least has a sharp edge such as a allen key or a hex key next belt is bosch powerful enough would you recommend anything more powerful the bosch is plenty powerful for this sort of stuff i think if you do max torque you would probably rip out most of the uh most of the threads that was that was screwing into it's got like six newton meters where it's rated at and that is that's plenty i've already put the linear rail housing onto the rail as in the little printed piece or the actual um the actual carriage the carriage just comes the carriage comes pre-installed oh hold on we could actually the carriage comes pre-installed on the rail okay if that come on get the nut in there first get the screws in uh get the printed part over it get the belt on there and then get this entire stack smooshed on there yeah that's a bit easier to get to about to hold it in place [Music] and then the m3 [Music] flip the flop around and then this side this side because the come on because this bottom hole is not used up this does not have anything in it i can put the m3 t nut in it again with the long side facing the rail and kind of sliding in underneath there like so and then another spring-loaded m5 t-nut in that hole next to it like this with the long side facing inward so that it's not sticking out where's my belts there's two of them there so same thing again belt goes in here the nut is in here it's captured belt cover belt that goes on as a unit filters aligned and we lock everything in place what why are you not what oh i've got the wrong bit okay that makes sense i was like i can see the screw is caught but like why are you not tightening down there we go and then one last belt on this one same procedure as every year that kept goes on here and now here we have yep oh i was holding one of the belts in place here we have that same situation as on the other side where there is a screw in the top hole of the rail so we do need to use the shorter type of nut for the m5 and we can use the m3 with the ball detent and align in a way that it's pointing outwards towards the m5 like so and then one last belt check the belt on that a b bearing stack yeah it might might have come off might have slipped off but we're gonna double check all that once it goes into use and once we go to get to tensioning everything okay so [Music] xbox entry assembled xbox entry assembled so you are basically ready to go on to the z-axis in the frame basically right yeah so we're gonna park you back here it's not quite an octopus it's like a quadriplus at this point so that's gonna make for an interesting perspective but basically on each of these rails i'm going to need one of where are they one of these blocks m3 by 20s goes on like so and that's that's i guess there we go goes on like so and then the xy gantry just sits on top here and we bolt this together i guess and three by four let's just double check m3 by 20 and then we're doing the screen which we're not doing and then once this is bolted in place we still need to route the belt so you lowest torque right bit basically just a whole bunch of assembly i'm going to leave out the m5 screws for now because those are just going to fall out [Music] yeah i guess you can assemble these with a bit of a tilt left and right and that's what that ball head joint does i wonder if the surface of that ball is actually lined up with some specific position because if it's not if this ball surface is not lined up with the source of your error like for example in the center of this carriage your you might compensate for like a rotational error but by compensating for that rotational error you're gonna start introducing introducing introducing a positional area instead so i wonder if there's any like rhyme and reason to that actually let me see we can we can use these stoppers now and put these in a better position just got to make sure that i'm not like pulling these off the rail that's going to give us access to because now it's it's stopped in place right there that's going to give us access to actually assemble these actually let's see it's a bit higher and like the one two three four fourth hole um so we're not gonna have to hold these in place the entire time so a bunch of people have already said hey this is my um my background noise for building my own and who else is is building a bar on a board a boron nitride printer who else is printing or building a war on uh watching this because that's like that seems to be a common theme with these build streams people building the same printer while watching me build these i find that kind of charming just to you know the fact that this build might be maybe not inspiration maybe not a guide or anything but at least some entertainment for pretty old building at the same time wow bunch of people that's like a dozen folks right now wow what are you guys doing are you guys doing kits as well or is it is it all self-sourced uh these days i feel like self-source is like the the premium solution and just the you know the kit is kind of the easy way out more or less a war never really done self source self sourced kit and dolly bill cut as a as a guide that's that's not that's not going to give you a war on lots of self-sourced so i mean for for me the reason with the with go the reason for going with a kit uh was basically time for the most part and time as in spending the time to find all the parts and then waiting for them to to arrive and also it's like just finding all the individual bits i mean it's an experience it's something that you know you do and you've experienced um but i've done that before and i was like well i don't need to do that again um [Music] i mean what really are the um the specialized parts i guess the extruder parts are kind of proprietary i mean if if it's uh if it's actually bond tech person that shouldn't be too hard but well you can actually do that ah self-source with surfsourced sugar parts are just bmg so you buy uh you buy a bmg basically these belts are slipping off ever so slightly but that shouldn't be much of an issue [Music] okay hanging with zip ties now we're good we're good we're good um let's see no kids out there yeah that too so this part with the with the cutout that's the back as far as i know so now with the extruder kind of looking at me i should have the front facing me huh oh wow that is pretty far off so on this side we are off by about two millimeters three millimeters in the back so three millimeters off in the back and about two in the front actually if you move you back say so in the back here this is the joint right there so if i align it on the left side there's about a two millimeter offset which i don't think we're gonna be no hold on if i actually align this this is like three four it's about the size of a screw right oven it's a bit less than the screw head of an m3 which is six millimeter if i remember quickly so like five ish um and then in the front right now with the um with the x-axis in the back hello camera with the x-axis in the back it is more like three millimeters but the other the opposite direction so how do we align this uh that's why the back beam was loose so basically what i'm what i'm thinking the way this will be aligned is uh undo all the screws in the back so these these two these two and the ones on the bottom undo these to allow it to kind of snap into place undo the x-axis screws as well to allow that to conform to that and use that kind of as the reference and transform and transfer this to the front by moving the x-axis to the front of the machine i'm not going to worry about belts right now because the belts are like the least of my concerns as long as the dimensions don't match up so there's an exactly in chat that's my my sign to go ahead with this plan of mine you get loosened you get loosened you are blurry but thankfully we can focus you oh that's uncomfortable you get loosened and then same on the bottom put stoppers on the other end um where in the top end i'm not gonna i mean where with the oh where'd the bearings go i mean this is uh come on i don't have anywhere to go so if i pull this to the front yeah i can pull these apart these these actually get pulled apart quite far quite a bit um and that also tensions the belt some so hmm um i guess it would be a good call good time to switch that perspective and actually tension these down so i'm gonna undo the the screws on the x-axis on the x-beam if you remember correctly it's these and then i think it's this one that's also clamping it down here and that should like allow that to kind of come apart yep that does allow it to come apart so the question is if we tension this down now that's going to conform our x y gantry to the dimensions of the frame at that height and that's making the assumption that the that the frame is the exact dimension up top as it is at the bottom but that is kind of taken care of by the fact that these are extrusions that are um between our vertical extrusion so if these extrusions these extrusions need to be cut to the exact same dimensions of these and the ones going towards the front for this all to work i hope that is the case i i mean i think the extrusions were pretty good do we have that trap nothing there i sure hope so um yeah i i sure hope that that is the case and i think the extrusions were all pretty good so how do these get aligned front to back so left to right is pretty easy but front to back where do they sit these are gonna just naturally find the position sam what is what is up with you i guess okay and this side back here just gets pulled back i mean sure people told me i'd loosen them but the thing is like the xy gantry is impossible to build if everything is loose and and slopping around um you would probably break stuff if this gantry was not at least somewhat tight while building it did i undo the front to back screws [Music] so the front two back screws i can't undo those so hold on the positioning of the so the distance of this top piece sitting on this y rail and the position of this top piece sitting on this y rail is basically defined by the screws that are now hidden by this part so i would need to yeah front to back i have no way of aligning this front to back um so this piece can move back and forth if you undo the two screws that are hidden in this block and i can only undo them when i don't have the carriage attached to it which is kind of pointless so front to back i think is is just gonna it's just gonna have to be yeah so this was roughly flushed up with the end of this extrusion that's just gonna have to there's no way to adjust it it is the way it is so this gets pulled over and flushed up no need to over complicate well no need to over complicate is the little little brother to well this thing is going south really quickly so alignment issues with builds like this are a pain to figure out so i i would rather take a moment right now to thank all of you watching haha no i would rather take a moment right now to figure this out and make sure it's as well aligned as it gets and that this is tightened down well enough because it was moving just a second ago when i thought it was tight enough um yeah i would rather take the time now then have to deal with some mysterious issue of racking or whatever later uh hold on so this one i shouldn't tighten down all the all the way yet i think because i'm going to put the screw in because the x-axis is going to travel from back to front so if we if i tighten this down now i might get binding on the x-axis rail don't over tighten the z joints well if they're moving if i can feel them moving they're going to introduce some wall into the kinematics because they're transferring the entire force for the dynamic forces of the two head accelerating and decelerating so they they need to be slob free to work so the back ones are the back ones are um the bag z joints these guys on the side that we just tensioned down um these are aligned by fields i can feel they are aligned with the with the belt clamps oh i actually i'm just seeing them i miss the belt by one tooth so this guy sticking out one tooth oh well these are aligned in the back which means i can tighten down i can tighten down the crossbar in the back and i can tighten down with the x-axis pushed or the x-bar pushed all the way back i can tighten down the x-bar so let's do that and these all thread into metal which means i can give them a fair amount of torque unless i can't actually get to them can i kind of tighten these down at an angle i can so i need to make sure to not push this up where i'm going to push the uh the z-axis carriages off of the rails which would be quite unfortunate come on [Music] you and then you go back here and then the one in the bottom as well but that's a no that's the same type then you are here so that should be crossbar in position where it can stay these are tightened down um the x bar is also tightened down and the length of the x-bar is now set so the length of this is perfect for back here because we aligned it to everything else so now move it forward and that should give us the correct distance between the left and right y bars [Music] and yeah as expected this left z joint feels like it's like a half a millimeter off feels like this is half a millimeter set further inward so if i had aligned this the same way as the other ones just making it flush we would have put tension on these y on these y on these y rails because this x bar would have been too short for the position here we aligned it in the back and then we move it forward and these wouldn't be parallel essentially but because we have the x-boy titan down now that makes sure that the y-bars are parallel put the belts at the bottom first you'll have four belts attached to the gantry before you line it up um right so that means i get to tension down or tighten down this last one corner right so do i have any m5 screws left that go into the what's up with you you are the a belt you're the belt tensioner what are you yeah you're just attaching the belt tensioners to the y-axis so that's fine okay bell tensioners as well as the z-belt attachment so basically this is all tightened down the belt still needs some tensioning sure in a minute i guess that should be that should be the xy gantry done right yeah okay cx is built i need a quick sip of water for this okay i the manual is good but this part sucks like that part of the manual assembling this yeah that's that's gonna need some reworking otherwise so far so good but like wow okay so this is basically just the z belt and this should be fairly easy um remind me to put the stops the the um the stoppers for the z-axis rails back into a position where they're going to stop the rails from sliding off the top in a second right so these belts should should be easy yeah so they just go out the bottom yeah so the bad rail is back a bit so shouldn't fall out they just go out the bottom around our gearing units that we actually built i think the very first one of these build live streams back out the top through the tensioner around the angry idler and then while these are way too long look at how much these two are too long are they just shipping the same belts for the 350 nah well i guess i guess it would be the correct length for the 350 kit as well i think they're just not they're not cutting these uh two sides and belts are belts are pretty cheap so why add an extra an extra skull just for for a 300 kit they might also be shipping the same ones for the um 250 size oh i just realized i i missed the super chat by andrew rogers like almost an hour ago but thank you for the 10 andrew and uh thank you for the for the 100 and norwegian crowns uh 3d print tech design as well that is that is uh anton manson right without sure do you serve a beer on me creating some scandinavia i mean i'll have i'll have a tea once i'm done with that i i don't drink but thank you greetings from scandinavia that is true that is too tight how much does beer cost in scandinavia a lot everything is is expensive up north i don't wanna i don't wanna make this too tight yet okay isn't there a printed part for the z cutouts what i mean for the z cutouts would there be a printed part of that is that is the camera walking away in the for there uh i if there is one i don't have it it's not an electronic box either yeah there might be a decorative part for this but i i don't have it um so yeah the the printed forward we've already zoomed in uh the printed for it could only includes the parts that you need to get a printer that prints so you don't get like all the um what are they called the skirts on the bottom the skirts that have that hold the fan and are basically decoratively closing off the bottom you don't get those you just get the parts that i guess are required for you to print those parts on your own then also i think all the you know all the panel mounting parts are not included in the piv kit so you know that's another one of those parts that you could just print yourself basically so all the panels are the panel parts are included with the formbot kit which means like the acrylic panel parts but the the mounts for them are not um i don't yeah i think all also the um the screws and fasteners and all that are also included with the formbot kit but not uh but not the mounts itself not the printed parts for the mounts so same deal again here there's our gearing unit for the z drive um belt goes through uh how do you tension the z-belt um pull tighten and pull pull it tight and tighten the clamp no this is warm come on part-timer and that's not that would be too easy um now so the idlers up top um the idlers at the very top of the printer that i've already fed the belt through on that first corner those contain a an m3 screw um that also serves that serves as a tensioning mechanism so that red part i guess you can see it back there maybe that red part um that you can see that that can move up and down and that's a screw on that bottom on the top part that is actually pulling that tight so everything on here is like rigidly rigidly tensioned within three screws that actually move the accent parts up and then the belt kind of pulls down on it and basically all you're doing is you're pulling it up with the screw and the belt is the counter force to that again belt is way too long today i'd rather have it too long than too short hendrick is asking hey how is it how's it going how are you making progress well this one actually requires some thinking which is nice as a challenge but sometimes it's nice not having to think so we're we're making progress i said mechanical assembly would be done i think we are we're we're we're getting there we are nearly there so two more belts on the z axes because yes these are four independent z axes something something smells burnt might just my my fear of something not working out coming through hey might also have been the fly that uh that's in here that's that you might have seen flying around um getting a taste of that of that infrared heater that's that's set up in front of me so one more you go through the bottom last ten percent i have to work i mean how much streaming time how much stream time do i have so far it can't be that much this is like the fourth stream right so 12 hours um and i was told it would be 25 and i don't know where those remaining 13 hours are gonna be because the manual is pretty much it's at its end soldering iron is off yes obs is telling me we've we've done three hours and 25 minutes so far today yeah like i can definitely feel those three hours and 20 something minutes um so i'll be i'll be getting these belts in and then that's gonna be it for today and next next time i think we can do electronics getting a getting a do-it config on this is going to be very interesting cabling and debugging i mean what do you what do you mean debugging there's not going to be any debugging this thing's going to you know we're just going to fire it up and it's going to be flawless what's your angle i'm going to have to do it no no trust in in the build disappointed uh wiring looks time-consuming if you don't have a wiring loom yet definitely wiring on any 3d printer build is like both the part that i enjoy the least and the part that uh takes the most time because it you know when when you're building something like this you're making progress you're building stuff and it's starting like right now it's starting to look very much like a printer um and then when you do wiring it's like well i already have a printer like wha what's all this work i'm doing this is not this is not progress this is not moving things forward and that's that can be kind of demotivating um but it's part of the it's part of the job of building a 3d printer so unfortunately um we're not going to have that joy of of a lot of wiring um because i have a wiring wiring loom i actually have two wiring looms i have one that i ordered off of fermio labs that is probably a great choice if you're just building a normal voron but of course i'm not building a normal war on you know i'm jumping into this head first and i'm already building a special voron with a duet 3 which uses different connectors than the regular skr boards or the spider board which is i guess for spider octopus or whatever board you can use um and i'm also using mosquito magnum plus which has slightly different wiring so yeah um but fermi labs wiring loom would have been would have been good for a regular build um but then lineal also sent me another one well they were like hey uh you know what what do you need we're gonna make you one and they crimped one up and i'm not sure if that is a service that is that they're offering to everyone but that's that's probably a couple of hours of work saved just by having that that custom made wiring loom print is going to be beefy yes i mean supposedly uh magnum plus is only like 30 percent heavier than the regular mosquito is it the most is the mosquito or the mosquito magnum smoothies it's not that heavy but it's it's a it's a chunker yeah it definitely is a trunker as is this printer i mean there's nothing normal to start with here okay we have a happy wrecker so let me put those stops back in the top position so we're not destroying anything so can i move this can i manually move this z-axis without breaking stuff let me try that is skipping because that is not tensioned well yet uh there nope that is tension from the bottom okay that's good that's tight that's tight as well this one could maybe use a bit um since we're not doing since the i mean these belts are not riding on motor axles since that is not the case we don't need to worry about breaking the the bearings on the motors because if you have pulleys with a ton of stick out that might be an issue um where you're i think there's six two five pairings you're still skipping wow interesting why are you still skills still skipping there we go uh-huh smoothing yeah that is looking good that is looking like a printer okay let's give the x y a bit of a belt tension so belt tensions are actually all up front uh where is that one there it is that's the metal tension is right there so these belts are loose i might need to re-clamp them because they're like they have very very little tension though maybe that's going to be oh yeah nah this is going to be fine that's good and then the other side as well just some preliminary tensioning uh that one doesn't need much okay uh make sure the xy belt sits flush in all idlers yep i cannot see into this one but the ones in the back yeah by the way this this back side looks fantastic uh with all the there you can get some light on this well there we go so this back side with the double belt structure with the dot i said with the double belt structure camera yeah that looks nice and beefy it's unfortunate that that is the back side of the printer and you're never going to see that in use especially once it's covered up with a with a what's called with a panel with a cage with a cover all right um let's give the x y a bit of a whirl ha ha so this there's like half a millimeter that i can push the printer left side back so that might be slightly slightly off it might be from nah it can't be from belt tensioning um and up front it should be the other way around here it is so this is slightly off axis by like half a millimeter on one side that's running smoothly that's running smoothly as well it's interesting to feel like all that the phantom forces um that happen with the core xy system like it's easy to to move it diagonally because then one motor is turning and you you're kind of over that initial holding force that holding torque that a motor has it's very easy to move diagonally one direction and the other but if you try to move it if you try to move it randomly by hand it starts to to give you some very strange forces that react to your movement okay uh mystery guy's asking is it possible to use uh 1.8 degree motors for the z-axis and then 0.9 for the x and y i guess it is but 0.9 degree motors are limited in how fast they can go before before they run out of torque because you have to you have double the step frequency which also means double the i should not lean on that uh you wow uh they have double the back emf basically if my if my intuition is correct about that so right that is it for this stream we have as promised the mechanical assembly complete it is a i mean i present to you a warrant 2.4 that has no no wiring or anything to it um what is still missing we're missing drag chains we're missing a wiring loom we are missing crimped connectors on all the connectors that need crimping such as uh the probe uh the motors the z-axis motors are going to need the uh what do they call jst vh connectors as well wiring loom thankfully i almost dropped the mosquito magnum plus wiring loom thankfully it's pretty much all done already uh yeah the bed needs to go in here the bed is already assembled the bed is already assembled um has all the parts on it so i need to wire in the fuse for that uh electronics mounting we can do that on stream i'm gonna i'm gonna print up a mount for the do it three six hd for the main board and the three hc expander um but basically i think what i'm going to do is i'm going to have this thing pre-wired for the next stream so that all the parts are in here that need wiring as is as as well as the hotend needs to be installed with all the crimps on there drag chains on there um all of that i don't think i'm gonna have panels for this entire build because the panels are are really they're really optional more or less um they do look they do make the printer look really cool um there is um there is the part where you have your filament spool mount and you have that feed-in mechanism though uh that doesn't mount to the panels though however it is not those parts are not included in the printed for its kit so i'm i think i'm going to skip that as well and stick to just the basic printed forward build but yeah um like i said that stuff i'm gonna have to do before the next stream i think i might show a time-lapse or something on the next stream but no no promises there um [Music] anyways thank you all for watching thank you all for being here lens distortion makes it look weird what lens distortion yeah oh yeah there is some there is some wonkiness to that um thank you all for being here thank you all for sticking around thanks for everyone who has subscribed as did tinjan toomey sin tom ciao mr i i've got these subscribers uh that people just subscribe um i have those here as well oh i think no i i mentioned andy rogers super chat thank you all for being here um get subscribed if you want to see more streams like this um here's the thing though with subscriptions so youtube shows me which videos people subscribe on so [Music] if you subscribe on a video like this one that shows me hey that is something that people actually enjoy if you don't subscribe in a video like this it's like well i guess that's a video that didn't really engage people so like i said i see which people which videos people subscribe on youtube shows me that stat and yeah if you if you want to literally see this type of content more you stuck around to it um then get subscribed on this very video thank you for watching keep on making and i will see you all in hopefully two days i'll have to figure i'll have to see how well this wiring goes thanks bye [Music] no no don't don't unsubscribe it resupplies resubscribe please [Music] you

Channel: Thomas Sanladerer

Views: 41,968

Rating: 4.8978291 out of 5

Keywords: 3d printer, 3d printing, Voron, Build, 3D printer build, DIY 3d printer, Voron 2.4, Slice Engineering, Duet3d, Voron Engineering, Fermiolabs, Voron Kit, Voron 2.4 Kit, Voron kit build, voron design, voron 2, core xy, voron v2, voron v2.4 bom, voron 3d printer, voron design 2.4, voron v2.4 build, voron v2.4, voron v2 3d printer, voron v2 build, voron v2.4 bed, voron v2 kit, voron design sourcing guide, voron design afterburner, voron design 3d printer

Id: XeSEf4M6et8

Length: 220min 8sec (13208 seconds)

Published: Mon Jun 07 2021