vw bug transmission swap.

hey guys how's it going I got a 74 Super Beetle here as a friend of Mines I've been the caretaker of it for quite a while and one of the things that has been going on with it over getting worse over times the transmission is getting noisier and noisier to the point where it really needs to be addressed so yes I rebuilt one it's actually sitting under the hood I believe right now that he got and up we're gonna go do a swap on that but before we do that I figure I'd just let you listen to it a little bit and hear what we have for it noise help Timmy hammer fix it up [Music] so there's a brother loud pronounced wine that it has which I believe it's probably going to be the main bearing and although that can be fixed by itself the cost is tearing it down and not having the correct tools to fix it would make for a yeah it'll make for a much better repair to have a transit professionally done and just swap so we're gonna go swap that out in this video then with the little test right afterwards to see if it sounds much better back at the car in the garage the transmission out that he has to go in it it's up in the trunk so no one notices it took a little bit of a hit right there in its packaging should be okay but just want to make a note of it before we install it and keep such an issue later on and you also grabbed a plethora of parts we have new clutch kit assembly for new mounts trans and motor mounts are in there a new seal for the rear engine bay if it needs it the main seal for the car and this is the shift coupler it's under the back seat which connects the shifter to the tail end of the transmission and some gear oil the first thing we're going to do for put the car all the way up in the air is pop the back seat out already and I'm gonna disconnect a battery terminal off of it and then also again under the seat there is a access plate and what that actually is complete don't you do access is where that shift coupler is and you're not gonna go to pull the transmission out until that guy just connected you get that out there's the coupler we're gonna just loosen we're gonna take the mechanics wire off and loosen that guy right there that'll love tail to transmission to come out so we take a second and show why I'm replacing that coupler so here's the shifter up here rod goes through the tunnel and meets in the back and then you'll see as I look at the wiggle that shifter around you can see the play that is in there especially forward and back and by replacing that it just kind of tightens up the shift pattern so the shifters not a sloppy in the common area they have an issue let's backed off the wires off inspect off to build you take the shifter meatus area that there's a detent on that shaft that kind of holds it will take care of that once the transmission is out of the way but it's not very complicated we're gonna start up top and take a bunch of the uppers off while the engine is still cooling down then we'll get down to down below but since you're gonna take the air cleaner housing off which is just going to be loosening up that 10 millimeter here hoses a lot of times you just take these and it'll come right off you know that clamps preheat those are for your heater boxes and we get the air cleaner off any two minutes to go do that and we're going to take this tin out these three screws on each side a couple screws around the back this tin will pop right out of the way disconnect the generator leave the air eats that goes to the regulators a signal from the regulators on the generator what to do and this is the output of the generator it's got a ground wire right back now just put that string back in there the model cable eat also you tonight now he's for you I'm gonna take that little barrel out of there just so it doesn't get lost Oh what else do we have we're gonna have wires one goes to the coil for power coil pressure gauge should be that guy and then coming from the other side is going to be power for the reverse lights and that goes to the same side the hot side of the coil also anyway a lot of times you just take the holder right apart and you just reach that wire off to one side now I'm gonna go down under the car one thing that this car has on that normally you wouldn't be dealing with is a trailer hitch that's mounted on the bumper and it's also capturing the trans in motor mount location using that for support - so these two are going to come out I'm not sure if that has something to do with it it may and again up by the bumper we'll get that dropped out of our way and that trailer hitch is out of the way so next segments are gonna get removed they're gonna be these are the heater control cables is one there one there same as the carburetor same barrel nut comes off takes them off of there there is a fuel line I'm going to crimp it with a pair of vise grips and then disconnect it from the engine right there these will just pull back these are your heat tubes I'll come right out of the way you have two nuts on the bottom one there and one there trying to get the light there right amounts of stuff bleaching out the camera there is two on top one over by the starter on that side you're gonna get from the top and this one right here behind the clutch cable you could see it right there over there okay sometimes that threads in from that side sometimes they'll thread from the top it all depends on what the engine combination is so what I'm going to do is I'm going to remove the two from the bottom and check the top that top corner one up there get that one removed the last one I'm gonna leave connected and when I let the car down be the last when I take out before I remove the engine so I'm gonna take care of those items I'll bring you back and all that stuff down below it's been disconnected like I said three bolts are out of it the last stud on the top here came out that direction which is most of the time how it's going to happen except for earlier cars we have one last one holding the engine in up top up there but I'm gonna let the car down and I'm gonna have a floor jack this part of the floor jack is going to encapsulate with the oil strain areas and that's how we're going to support the engine take that last bolt out and grab it from the tailpipe so we're gonna start wiggling the motor forward and at the same time kind of lowering it we're going forward lowering it so we get the clutch cleared and once it's down all the way we'll lift the car back up get the engine out of the way I should be ready to go the only thing as he gets partway out you're gonna reach around the back end and pull the throttle cable out because that'll bind on you it's disconnected but you still have to unseat it from where it is so hopefully we got from the tailpipes be able to pull forward a little bit sometimes on cars that have a vacuum advance it's a y-z the tick distributor out or loosen it and rotate it out of the way this isn't a problem on this car though that's Ronald cable the wire reverse wire he's to come out [Applause] we are gonna have to unplug that [Music] she's free [Music] it's one engine both hangout for the transmission first thing I do is going to let the gear oil out of it and you have location here and sometimes they have one further back this does not because there's just like two separate cat cavities in here the gearcase is more up here and this is more the differential area of it sometimes they have two drains on starter we're gonna take out there's one bolts already off this is the one I was talking about this in top this is the hardest one to deal with the reason why even specially when you're putting it back in you put the engine up and in as soon as you go to try to get back in there with a nut and get it started with the bolt always wants to go feedback so one thing I like to do is before I put it back together to go over to a wire wheel clean these threads up really well so that when you get the nut on you can spin it on by hand except for the last little couple turns with the wrench because if you have to turn it with a wrench check I did to get it off it really is a pain so the start is gonna come out we have CV joints right here they have six on each one and they are a twelve point but you could use a six point allen on them to get them out but they do make a twelve point for them also generally they're not too bad tight wise worst-case you can grab them with a pair of vise grips and crack them loose you use the you hold onto the tire as you're rotating them to access them all you wanna loosen them all first but before you do anything you want that little tiny screwdriver a pick and get all the debris over the last years have been built up inside them get them kind of cleaned out first before you put anything in and then we put your Allen in there you want to kind of tap it in with a hammer make sure it's seated very well so you don't strip it out rear motor mount or trans mount it's actually the front panel how you wanna look at it and then you have both of these up here so you can have two here and two here clutch cable anything take the wing nut you're gonna go back it all the way off get the cable right out of the housing so let's get that taken care of and then I'll bring you back go get that gear oil out of there for a week Jeff with that wire yeah begin yeah so you kind of color comes out of this nothing comes out I can definitely see some metal coloring in it I'm terribly dirty but it does have some metal change to it was that few for a while I'm working on the other stuff also what they have is a magnetic plug and you can see the metal that's come on tries to get it out of harm's way you know least attract it and so it doesn't keep going through the system to an extent it goes dark for a second I want to show you these are pretty tight so I don't want to strip out the insides of them I'm gonna just do is grab them with a pair of vise grips yeah it'll give the crack loose and once you get a turn autom you can come back to the Allen and no matter what what dumb you were using on the inside it just gonna strip out vice grips are that hard to get it to move you're gonna have a problem with the inside even if you had the correct 12 point socket Here I am over on the driver's side and axle is removed but I definitely did put up a fight a lot more than it it should have but it's been together for 45 years and sometimes that's to be expected they ended up bar chairs probably got half of them and then we ended up going to using an impact driver an impact driver basically is whatever implement you want to put on the front of it when you hit the back of it with a hammer it drives in and turns at the same time so it doesn't want to pull out and strip it kind of drives it in at the same time and turns it so that got all of them except for one and one of them I heck he's a air chisel on the side of it and kind of hammer it where near she hasn't once it did that it kind of rocked it loose a little bit I took the screw out above it where is it so I took the screw out above it and then took the bracket and I worked the bracket back and forth now it's enough to turn the bolt a little bit and then I was able to finally get that last one I don't know they're all out next I'm going to step to is I call it a preload - you people call it a Bowden - a couple of different names this is the clutch cable tube it's going up through so I'm going to take that nut and that nut off I'll get the bracket away and I can just stay by itself the starter has gone for a ride I want to go take the wires off the starter I soaked it but it is turning the whole stud so I am NOT going to take the wiring off the starter I'm just going to unbolt the starter and I'm going to pull it to the side no sense opening a can of worms if you don't need to see if we do our best not to drop it on the floor clear off this table so we can use them part swap them I just want to show the oil can give it to show the metallic eNOS yeah how much metals in it no I haven't side by side and it's coming giving them a quick general look over the only thing I see different is the ribbing on this one is different it's on this not quite Shores might be just a little bit later model I'm just not positive that I don't see anything that should cause to be an issue though they painted over this is reverse light switch we're gonna go clean those up they should be not painted and same thing with the threads for the starter let me take a wire we're just gonna go and clean them up with a wire wheel get the paint off of those so that we're not fighting hard we're trying to go back on and the only thing with two other things here in this transmission when we took out one is the ground strap was broken and there was a very thin jumper wire going to it so we're gonna try to come up with a better ground wire for the trans because what ends up happening is it tries if this ground strap isn't there it tries finding another path through grounding which is sometimes the axles through the drivetrain it could even be what takes out the transmission to because it's trying to ground through the gears of the trans to the body so that can cause an issue of may have even been what causes that this come down it but it could be what caused it and the other thing is there was no plug in the trans right here I'm not quite sure what would go here you see that it's blank on the one over there but this was open to the weather on the outside so I might have been like a neutral safety switch is what I wasn't thinking but not positive that again the reverse light switch is right there so I'm gonna start cleaning that up get some stuff swapped over and hurry to put that back in oh one last thing I where the show is you hear the noise in it that's a tad loud you see it hit the wire wheel on there on the tabs this isn't gonna be the front trans mount I'm gonna clean up the threads on you get the idea all right getting there I got the mounts swapped over over the bracket elite swapped over it's got new mounts all the way around it I wanna show the starter set up there's a six volt with 12 volt they got two different bushing sizes you just want to make sure that you have what you're supposed to have again 12-volt starter there is uh again essentially three different types of starter is if there's a six-month 12-volt which here is two different pilot bushing sizes four I'm on that and then was a type three a Type three has its self-supporting it's not reliant on this outer bushing for supporting the starter motor so it'll have its own support and type three is that gonna be like a Fastback square back that kind of thing and they'll fit right in a regular bell housing you put that started right in you know it'll run on anything so worst-case scenario if that's your problem order it take three starter Aniyah started wrapping the wire ended up breaking right off soon as I went to go move it no I still have to deal with that anyway to go fix that oh and was gonna get to it on the starter the starter is a not self-supporting on this style you notice you can kind of move that around a lot of people think they have a bad starter and it really isn't the start it's the bushing that is in there if the bushing burns out and allows to start or missing or whatever has so much play that this is able to touch its side it won't spin or it'll spin very slow so a lot of times you check that before you can go bother changing so I probably more common before for the bushing then it is actually a bad start that I have run into so anything else I'm going to add to that oh if you go like right now if you go to put power through this starter it won't spin just because there's nothing supporting it out here you would actually have to put power to and kind of find the sweet spot where it will work I think it's won't let it's hell rear mounts on it's guys like a - the shield over it I took it off the body now it's got two like slides on it it will help us to reassemble it again this transmission is upside down so flip this around and there's two nuts already hanging underneath the car without washers on it's a joke there so we can actually just kind of slide the trans in on those two forks and it'll support itself instead of trying to hold the thing up there and try to bolt it up and it's got a boob this is where the body of the car is and this goes out to the shifter the boot just makes a seal between the body and the transmission so you see the cars floating on line on the spots they don't want the leak I guess so that's stud that's what stuck on me this where the wires are broken off from it let's see if we can free that guy up get it out of there worst-case scenario I'm gonna clean if I find the studs gonna go pull out I'm gonna clean the top up I'm gonna type it and on top of it but let's even get that one off the first thing I wanna do is I wanna get all the crap out of the way the threads possibly that I cancel the nut has less to try to back off of so we're gonna go take just B wire wheel no he's at work you're Right Scoop give her good juice this is what I would have to do one of the car - but pinching and lightly trying to hold it and I don't want to push my luck she has touched Ernie I know when to say when probably that so quite work out a little bit but if I take that post out of the center of it it trash it will grab another nut we'll just put the wire way over the top of it and bolt it back down again it's gotta get a new hot lead to put on there but other than that let's here we're gonna go call that next so I cut the end off the cable that broke underneath and put a new eyelet on it but that draws a lot current their location so I really want a good a good connection so it's already has flux on the wire and the end of it and I'm gonna go instead of trying to solder it down out of the car I'm gonna try dipping it in a pool of solder and that's what this is I just got to heat it up and heat it up to this whole pool is liquid we're gonna go grab your pliers go underneath dip it in and see how that makes for a bond you definitely need to do my best not to drop this cuz that would suck I would say okay she'll be soldered and I guess you could put this down someplace nice you see that is no there's now one shiny too so I took the what was left of the ground strap off underneath the car and I'm just left of that crude over time I have these so not the they're better than what was on there but I have to do a little bit of whittling to get them to fit onto the bolt that's on the trance so I just got shaped down one side that all that goes on the Horn of the car and it's plenty of room on the horn for that and I really think that this could be what damaged the transmission again trying to make a ground path through the transmission in the axles instead of through the ground strap so without this on their attachments of the body you only have a couple of locations that you have to the body is the shifter which is supported by plastic bushings so that's kind of isolated from the car and the rest is going to be the axles the X was going out to the suspension and through them and well again you're trying to run get back to the case through the bearings in the transmission and kind of like that's why you don't weld across the bearing same idea you know you'll you'll hit the bearings well the same thing can happen and the charging system when it's you know either cranking it or once it's running the charging of it the all the current would have to the return path would have to be going through the suspension so it may have been what took it out I saw once before on a long time ago Hana it was a rabbit VW Rabbit like a 77 78 DW ride when they first came out I wasn't around of it anyway what was doing it was eaten CV joints like crazy it might've been a Honda Civic it kept burning up CV joints on one side like crazy okay crazy we could figure it out but I mean and you know they'll be a two months three months later to come back the thing would be all beat up again and that's kind of what it was it was the ground path for it was missing ground strap and it was burned up the CV joint over and over again this is a bolt that is the upper left-hand corner of rain hand corner and I saw you looking from where it goes through the starter and you have to reach behind the the engine fan shroud and get this nut started without pushing that bolt back there's nothing just kind of get keys in to the startup but there's really nothing holding it in place so you have to reach down in there and get that guy started without pushing the bolt now you're doing it like this and what happens is if it's if it's gummy like when it came apart you'll see that it's very you know it's trying to turn the ball and you go on a little bit so that you don't have to deal with that go to a wire wheel comes in handy again now it's more buttery to put on there it's not fighting you as much you'd actually run it all the way on with your fingers instead having to get in there later on what a wrench and turn it in eighth of a turn each time and you know you know what I'm talking about preparation or your best use gonna be I'm gonna try muscle on that thing up inside there trying to get a view of the back of my head it's not exactly my best feature let's go for the grunt yes I remember you change the shift couple should be able to do it with the trains out of the way grab me a pack gun for me forget it 19 millimeter socket yeah Matt I think I get that one started double-check on that shift coupler change that out just in case you need to pull forward over from the room is that shift coupler and what it does is here's that bolt that we took up in the beginning that pinches on to the shaft coming out of the trans and then it's just a bar coming from the fork up front you pull this pin here 15 on the other side yeah it split that pin that pin will slide out making you dizzy and that allow you to get to insert that into the front and put the bolt back in the other side and then we can go back to this Adam goes back on the trans at that point that right there is the other end of it attaches to I apologize ahead of time if it's gonna be shaky you guys are right curiously in the car wedged just like me so we're going to show you where that that old one that has all that play I just replace the rubber bushings but there you go I'm going to have to hold you guys down with something to me do you really want to see this important to you I think you guys get the idea that's on there tight we need to get rid of thank you we're gonna put the other one in it cuz the other one has a hole through it so you can tie it it is a common spot that does loosen up you can see the hole in the center I'm I'm working the shifter it's opposite what you think and moves opposite direction let me go throw that in there you have adjustment at the shifter too you can move the shifter around the plate so if you have a hard time catching like 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th you could tweak this shifter up front a lot better running back at it sheilo to play no more it's worried up well that does it in case it does the point down below up from moving you can actually loosen itself up even if this doesn't turn away but this will just stop it from once it does get loose physically backing right now so it'll still be located just not quite crank down all the way a safety back up so the transmission is all buttoned up it just kind of jump forward on there throw out bearings in it cleaned up all the threads so that reassembly should be easier than it was before the mounts are all installed starters in lubed all the points that needed to be lubed [Music] and not filthy yeah go fill the transfer the next thing to do ground strap is on that's a little better than what we had before - good see that's your work so while the engines I don't think I'll get the thing filled up a little bit easier and then we have to jump on to getting a good me steel for here the problem is that you think it's channels kind of rotting out you can see rust here and there and when the I think just car possibly even took a hit at some point in its life because it seems like the back is a little wracked to one side it seems like the engine compartment the engine tins were very close on this side so we have to I might have to get a little inventive bring a good word or keeping that seal in a lot of the channel that holds it is rotted out there's a lip that's supposed to hold it and as you can see I am there anymore in that part of it that transit stopped off and now I want to work on the engine bay seal here's a new one the old one is terrible but while we have the engine out and we have to address it anyway you might as well change it it's it's probably five years older so it kind of looks again but we're gonna have it apart so why don't we go change it cards arms at one time I'm gonna do this come back and kind of clean out and open up these channels a little bit yeah right here's the worst what's gonna happen I'm trying to install it it's gonna want to pull out like it did see when the other corners just nothing holding it and I think we should go get an inn best we can we'll come back maybe with some tax security so I'll try running a tax screw here and there to kind of hold the thing at least close to being in place in worst case after the engines back in we can kind of pull back up into some resemblance we're supposed to be the idea to keep the the hot air from down below coming up above your air cooled cooled air comes in from the vents gets sucked in through the fan on the back of the engine and then all that gets deposited under the engine and out at the back of the car well if these seals are no good and the hot air is able to come back up in you're sitting in traffic the heat actually just comes right up through here in the engine bay just makes a circle and other things sorts of overheating so that's why you know that's the idea the seal all right let's talk him let's get her in there dig it out now come back with the air gun will blow out and it's just sitting in the track I think so Mike replaces apron what I'm thinking you see where it's been kind of like rubbing with it you know there's nothing with a channel there anymore I don't think yeah don't bust it away we're gonna be gingerly I could see someone looks like hammer marks here so it was heat at one point it kind of feed back into submission and down in the dark that seal is in and I'd probably put about about eight screws going around the perimeter of it just to kind of hold it in place this whole section is it's too dark for this whole section is given way so there was nothing sporting it at least now when it gets fondled by the engine and it'll be able to hold on a little bit better so gonna switch over get the clutch disc off and get a new rear main seal on it so you had a new clutch pressure plate throw out bearing it wasn't having an issue but because we're having we have it apart we're doing a couple of might as well for the future so that goes back inside there we just need to get to it and see if they'll crack loose with the impact driver not so important when you taking it off but when you put it on you don't want to run one in to go to the next one run that one in you kind of want to draw it in even as you go around I'm not going to be that concerned about it taking it apart but we're gonna keep that in mind cracking loose first same with the rear main seal to it um not leaking but while we're in there it's a good time to do it cuz nothing worse than next spring when it takes it out then it does have an issue yeah that cluster disk was she went signs of rust kind of rusty see broken springs that one looks a little funny though that one's broke yeah that one's broke - good thing we changed it Michael doing to make donuts in a parking lot I said now we got to get 36 millimeter socket get rid of that watch it Daris [Music] flyable looks okay see Wow next size up sugar they'll clean that up with a rag into an inch [Music] go hit her with some brake clean you crush your plate we'll do the same comes a little grease the grease is for the the center bearing we're gonna go fly that right to the tip grease on the tip there's a bearing inside there take the grease having it flown in other places comes with a centering tool already yeah but you put this one on you cannot want to throw them in a little at a time we are going to start with the air gun and then work our way over where is it would I kick it to high end with the gun I didn't just set them up with the driver [Applause] [Applause] you can kind of watch the center of the fingers too and watch how they're going in games you see we want to crank down on one side all together seem drawn it hand is in the way I'm gonna go back home one last time with a ratchet well without the swivel and I'm just gonna work a crunch from it just make sure we got good then turn it as if you tried to work on this side you'll just turn the engine over if you work across the center it has a lot less tendency to and I've done in the hundreds of these so there's gonna be people saying you use a torque wrench you see like you didn't use this you didn't put that there in whatever I never had a problem I was taught by somebody who knows what they're doing now that I said all that something would go wrong and I'll kick knee Brittany yes honey that's ready to go back in I'm gonna go see if he has anything else he wants to put on the motor and he might have a set of plugs he wants to throw on it if not we can go pop that back in its sink you ready to put the engine in one thing I want to go do is go and put the car in gear and make sure the emergency brake is on and the reason for that is when you're trying to put the engine in this is what's inside right so you're trying to put the engine and get it up on the shaft and if you don't have the gears lined up you're never gonna get on you have to be able to rotate it so it'll drop on so what you do is you grab the the generator belt on the engine you can rock the engine back and forth well if you have this in neutral this will just turn with you and you won't get to be able to get that click especially if it's slightly off-kilter you know it'll just kind of turn right with that disc so if you put it in gear and then you lock the wheels from turning now the the trans won't go still aren't stopped so as you turning it will eventually click and you'll be able to slide it in [Applause] keep the throttle cabling get started [Applause] I'll get it cuz it's it and go underneath and starts a to bottom the two bottom bolts are gonna get the nuts out and tighten them up yeah the bottom two are tight so no you just lift it right up it'll hold on those two give us a little bit of room I can get the driver's side upper from the top get that cranked in and the one that's really gonna fight us is the one by the starter that we're talking about yeah it's down and they can't you see with the hole where it's not sticking through that's what you need to get we'll get your hand in there and just start setting that without pushing it in yeah so right there I think you can see it is the troublemaker and it stood what I have sitting on top of the starter this the stud is forward and then I have a magnet just stuck on top of the star to give us some back pressure doesn't so it doesn't move behind and I just have to get down inside there with that get it started and turn it what wrench we can't get a ratchet in there what's good is the ratcheting wrenches that's one time where it's good for that application I don't have a completely buttoned up but definitely buttoned up enough to run it myself the tins to put on the back and the trailer hitch to put up but let's make sure everything is good to go we put that stuff on there yeah I think we just need to reconnect our battery neutral we have a belt to change on that dude that's the rattle you're hearing let's go hop in it and go through the years hopefully it's stopped all right works on my list yeah button that up I want to change that belt out put the tins on put the tire on trailer hitch and test drive all done what'd you say we go take it for a test drive and hopefully no issues hey guys go right through the gears [Music] and find forth is a little first a little tricky to get into we can play with the shifter you move the shifter around where it's located and possibly find a little bit better pattern but I don't think it's the shifter because it goes into third real easy third and fourth are on the same distance over there on the same fork I should say inside the transmission so I haven't run it a little bit you see how things kind of go you just said it's like it is definitely a lot quieter but one tire in the back it's a little worried and the sound enough you get a tire on the road but again there's no no passenger seat in here that might be a little bit more nosey nosey noisy by a hundred percent improvement before you can even hear the engine run also you would hear is the the whine of the trance yeah stop the fear when we run it through the years again is it there's no problem second no problem first no problem reverse verse is fine that's what we get [Music] and when to forth no problem that time so yeah I'm gonna let them just kind of run it and see how things kind of settle in sometimes it was terrible before one time I got in his car is like every seven one for sick and I just kept grinding in Reverse make a mic you drive it like that who's that actually guys I think that's good I think we got our done because I go home there's no big puddles underneath it go back into him and I finished my last commitment to friends that need repairs on your stuff and you can go back to working on my stuff so with that one thank all you guys for kind of hanging out garage broom wrenching with me in front I enjoyed it hope you did how many you guys actually watch this that don't even own a VW or never will own a VW but you watched it anyway hey guys I'm babbling thanks again I will see you on the next one later you

Channel: Mustie1

Views: 295,262

Rating: 4.9423075 out of 5

Keywords: mustie1, bug, beetle, type 1, type 2, bus, samba, clutch, trans, transmission, swap, rebuild, how to, diy, complete, exchange, super beetle, fastback, vw, volkswagen, standard, main seal, garage, engine, custom, shifter, coupler, engine removal, vw bug, stock, herbie the love bug, german

Id: lGOevO6Nfcc

Length: 62min 54sec (3774 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 12 2018