Ultimate K20/K24 Build Guide! PT.10 (Timing Your Motor)

[Music] all right welcome back everyone we're just gonna jump right into this the oil pump finally came that means I'm probably gonna make street Wars so I'm actually super excited I just got home from work and I'm jumping on getting this motor assembled because today is Tuesday February 2026 so technically by the time you guys watch this these the motors gonna be done completely assembled and I'll probably already be at street Wars just because of the timeline I'm uploading these kind of like once a week kind of thing just so I have content every week because if I uploaded everything anyway as a precise point so I'm putting this together right now that I'm pretty good pump on today tonight the chains and everything before I do that I did actually set up the dial bore gauge because in the last video I don't well not the last be doing one video I couldn't show you guys to crank up and play because my dial bore gauge broker dropped it so I got a new one I set it up really quick I want to show you guys just to see what you're looking for what your specs are with new thrust washers you're looking for four thousand to sixteen thousand sigh believed actually it's four thousand to fourteen thousand on brand new thrust washers anywhere in between there so it's a pretty big gap and I think the limit is eighteen thousand su you don't want to go any more than eighteen so I'll show you my setup scuse me I'll show you my setup and we'll check it really quick I'm gonna throw a pump on this for my setup I just use a like a Harbor Freight clamp setup with the dial indicator first thing I'll do is I'll actually push the crank towards the indicator i zero it out that way so I'll just get a big screwdriver right here push it towards the front and my zero out yet so as you can see it's zero it out right here I've got a glare in there zero it out and then from here I'll just pry backwards I'll just stick the screwdriver in here here I'll hold the cameras daddy as I can and we'll pry backwards you can see I got five thousands of movement we'll move it back go back the other way so five thousands these are brand new thrust washers so we are right in that speck of four to 14 so I just wanted to show you guys this is a quick check and kind of a check you need to do to make sure your thrust the crank dress is perfect and in its where it needs to be especially because they give you so much moon or wiggle room this is just a setup I do we're good let's do a soil pump on here's just a quick layout of basically the whole timing system and the oil pump setup them be using I'm using reusing my guides because these are brand new I don't even know how many miles they had on them I checked them out they're fine the chains I'm reusing as well because these were also brand new when I replaced them maybe a couple hundred miles on them they're still so new that you can actually still see the gold links on them those kind of fade over time they're fine reason that I have the stock k20 girdle and then I have a of a baffle as well an oil pan baffle that I'll show you guys how I install that one the drag cartel lower timing chain guide so this is part of the of this whole kit right here which is the thing is the timing failsafe kit so I'm going to definitely explain it in this video how to set this up and the the main reason why you want to go with this is this I think this is an option though but this came with at the lower chain guide the crank gear the pulse plate and the longer key and the inline Pro time and chain tensioner and then just all the other miscellaneous stuff and the pump right here for piston and all they actually came on time so I'm happy about that there's not much to see with this this is just a spotted look stock so by looking at it you can't really tell anything all the work is done inside this are almost positive this is not even my pump because I know when I cut it to fit the case when it to fit on a k24 my cuts weren't that good so I think they just took mine as a core I think they actually put like they're a little stamp or something oh yeah right there it's a little 4p right there but this is what I've been waiting for and this is the major key let me explain why in case anybody was wondering why I took the time or I sent my pump out to get poured it or have a ported why would you want a ported k20 oil pump when the k2000 oil pumps already kind of the go to pump the reason is if you're reading higher than 8500 the stock 820 pumps they starts to what it's what they call cavity which means stars for none of the stars for oil it starts to create like air bubbles and the oil pump will suck the air bubbles out and you'll actually drop some oil pressure if you lose oil pressure that means you lose oil going to your bearings and you start to lose some oil going to the bearings they'll get dry they'll get hot and they'll start to spin and I'm almost positive that's what happened the first time I ever blew my stock my k20 pretty sure that's what happened I just over arrived it took that quick second and it just spun my bearing so that's the main reason why you want to go to a port an oil pump is just to make sure you can rev high if you are revving high without the oil pump starving for oil and you can just keep sending oil throughout your whole motor the whole crankcase the whole crank all the little journals you want to make sure you always have oil pressure going through that so that's why I went with that because I am shifting at around 90 200 that's it's not my redline but that's that's where I pretty much shift that I need to me and I went all out with the whole build anyway so I needed to make sure the motor was gonna keep oil pressure at those higher rpms so if you have a K 24 block and you want to install a K 20 oil pump there is the one bolt well not a bolt there's gonna be a little port right in here and it has to be honest with you I don't even know what it's called it's it kind of regulates the oil pressure on the k24 is they have an oil pump that has balance shafts in it so instead of the k21 you'll see it only comes up to like right here the balance shafts actually go almost up to here it just doesn't work for a revving high and and keeping that oil pressure at higher rpms so that's why they'll use tools you'll switch to a k20 oil pump but when you switch to it you have to take this little orifice out right here pop it out and sometimes the blocks come with this hole threaded and sometimes they don't if they come threaded you'll just get a bowl I'll leave it I'll leave like a little caption on what the thread should be you could just thread this in with some honda bond torque it down and it'll be okay if not you have to put some threads in here so just tap this hole out so you can somehow block this port because with this port open it's just gonna dump oil out and if you just dump an oil out you're never gonna build oil pressure and that's no good you need oil pressure so that's why you block this hole so it can build the oil pressure on a k24 block the K 20s you don't worry about this and it obviously comes with its K 20 oil pump but on a K 24 that you're converting to a K 20 oil pump did I say all right K 24 block that you're converting with AK 8 2000 pump need to block this hole there's tons of write-ups on how to do it my block already had it when I bought it so that's why I don't really have video on how to do that but I'll I'll see if I could find a cave 24 block and I'll show you guys how to do that following our oil pump we need to use the K 20 oil girdle and we're gonna lay this down it only goes down one way wanna fill your holes alright so that's good next thing we're gonna do is we're actually gonna put the crank gear right here onto the snout of the crank because when you put the oil pump you need to put it with the chain on they don't it it doesn't really slide on without it you have to kind of slide them on as one unit so this is the modified crank gear the reason it's modified is because this little key way is cut right here you see and focus on that this keyways cut this is not cut on the stock ones and this is what also helps it from jumping timing you just line up this dowel right here on to the back of the crank and I'll show you closer in depth when we flip the motor back over so just line this up keep this slide on and if you want to it'll all go on one way so if you could spin it and then it'll actually click in its place I'll try to do that again okay so it's clicked in now we're good now we're gonna get the oil pump and chain for the oil pump there is no timing procedure the oil pump is there's no top dead or whatever it just just put it on with the chain so we'll just get the chain on right here line it up and we're going to go in like that probably gonna pull this out a little bit so we can get on it okay now that we're on it then we can see how we're gonna have to walk it in as one piece okay and there's dowel pins on the oil pump so just kind of push it down and now we're good there so now what we're gonna do get our bolts tighten these down and then we're gonna get our guys for the oil pump so just to make it easier for you guys to actually see what's going on I flipped the motor back up to facing stand-up that way you can see where we're gonna put everything next I'm gonna put this guy right here and instead of using the factory bolts for this guy because I'm using this lower timing chain tensioner or timing chain guy we're gonna use these longer bolts because this guide will go over this the way I'll show you so we'll open this up put this over it and throw the bolts on we'll just grab this guy this guy goes through through this just like that it'll slide in it and then we'll work this right in here but what we're gonna do is we're actually not going to tighten this up all the way because we still have to put our actual cam chain on there so I'm just gonna use the bolts to hold it for now but they're not going to be tight and the kit there's a long and a short bolt the long bolt is gonna go on the top part of the guy so this long one's gonna go on top shorter one's gonna be in the bottom and we're gonna line all this so like I said I'm gonna leave it like that I just want the guide there to keep the chain from moving over next thing we're gonna put is the actual tensioner for the oil pump chain this is your oil pump tensioner usually when you buy them brand-new they'll have like this little clip that's holding it together I don't have that clip anymore you can just hold this with your fingers when you install it it's not that hard so here what you gonna do is basically get your bolt holes lined up so I'll start one and I'll kind of push the guide in or the tensioner in by hand to get one started and then I'll just kind of keep pushing it to get the rest of them lined up it's not much tension at all now that the oil pump is installed we're gonna focus on putting my baffle on if you didn't have a baffle you pretty much be done there wouldn't be studs I have studs here the stars are for my baffle if you didn't have it you would just little regular bolts in and throw it throw your oil pan on but you wouldn't put it on just yet you put that on blast because it kind of gets in the way of the timing chain ten of the timing chain so I'll throw that on at the end after the chain is on but for my baffle I have these little spacers that I have to install so all they do so I drop them right there then I'll slide my baffle on I can't remember what brand this is this is a Bolton baffle I think you could find it on a fhk parts and I got this a while ago so all that does that slide right on in case you're wondering why I run a baffle in a street car that goes drag racing is basically when you launch the car at the line all that momentum is going to slosh all your oil back so all the oil goes back away from the pickup because the pickup is at the front of the motor technically you can cavitate the oil pump like that as well by not having any oil being sucked in no matter even if it supported oil pump if there's no oil getting picked up by the pickup it's kind of sucking air so that's why I had it because I'm the hard launches and sometimes at the end of the track I know the higher the higher horsepower cars that are doing you know like maybe 150 trap speeds well they're thriller shoot now the front of the car nose dives and the oil just kind of sloshes everywhere so with the baffle it'll keep it where I want it which is right at the pickup that's pretty much why you do it and that's why it's just a Bolton one it's a simple baffle the next up after we got the whole baffle on the whole bottom of the motor is not the bottom of the motor the oil pump section oil section of the motor is pretty much set other than an oil pump oil pan next we're going to start laying the rockers down on the bottom so we can throw the cams on I usually have these zip-tied I didn't zip tie them when I took them off the this previous time just because I was able to hold them together tight and they didn't move sometimes you can get away with it I'm gonna see if I can get away with just kind of holding this whole thing together really tight and laying it back on top of the motor but before you do that you have to lay a bead of RTV on the back of the head right here so you just lay a thin bead of RTV right here and then we'll throw the whole rocker assembly down on top of it and then would you throw the cams in alright let's strain some things out here this is day 2 from that last clip you just saw I'm over here mentioning to you guys yeah you know the rockers they might go in right they might not I might have to supply them up or whatever literally right after that clip I spent about two and a half hours trying to figure out what the hell's going on because this stuff wasn't working right I spent the whole almost the whole night just in the garage messing with rockers until I lost my temper I lost my cool and I'm like I'm done calling it a night I need to figure this out and I'm gonna share my findings with you and something that I've overlooked this whole time I've been building this cake because this is like the second Dominic building I'd even notice it the first time so the exhaust side of the rockers actually sit almost butt up against the spark plug tubes and I've never noticed that because when I went to put it in the rockers were stuck and they wouldn't sit on top of the valve seats or on top of the retainers I couldn't figure out why I kept taking them apart I took the whole rocker assembly apart slid them on one by one and it apparently this is normal I reached out to port Pistons a big shout out to Monday actually from four-piston I reached out to him and I asked him like yo is this normal because I've been spending an hour over here trying to figure out what's going on and he got back to me he said that's just the way the k-series is so I'm gonna show you guys so you don't assume the same thing I assumed that something was wrong when it's not and we could have used all that time I spent to finish the motor yesterday I'm just so mad I wasted all that time with let me show you guys so here's our front of our engine this is our intake side as you can see right here where the rocker is it's got it's got a pretty good gap where the rocker can just it almost slice it well it does slide all the way up don't lose these pins to push that back in so this is the intake set then if you go to the exhaust side see how tight that is there is a gap but it won't go up and it's on all of them on the exhaust side so I'm thinking something's wrong but I don't know how something can be wrong if the caps are doweled and it can only be lined up one way I was checking straightness on the the galley the oil galley where these actually go on and I was going nuts but Monday said that's normal I tried to find yeah there's a challenge trying to find a picture of a k-series head without cams in it I just wanted to see how the rockers were looking the very few pictures I found with a cam in there the exhaust side see oh they do look like they're making contact but I mean it's not contact but honestly this is like the max lift these are going to see because once we put the cams on this these are actually going to push down if I can even push it down they're going to push down so they're not they're going to be little more off of it but they're not gonna go any higher than that there's no need for it so okay that's what I ran into last night and I was so confused no idea how I never noticed that before but take this as a lesson if you're putting your head together or your rockers on your head and you see that that's all right that's normal let's continue to the scheduled program before we put our cams down we're gonna put some assembly Lube all over the rollers just so they're at least the rollers can pick some assembly lube up now with all the assembly on there we can drop our cams on just try to be careful with this sometimes you got to rotate the cam a little bit until you feel it fall into its place about right there actually but the more assembly move on your cans now we're going to install our cam caps he's our number and it's actually numbered on the top of the rockers it's hard to show you it's on top of the lower part of the cam caps and the numbers on the top of the camp cap so there's number one and you see that arrow that arrow points to the front of the motor when you lay these now ladies going down so now with the cams down the camp caps are down we're gonna have to torque these down these I'm not gonna strike a wire I can't stress this enough follow the OEM specs follow the OEM sequence I'll see if I leave a link down below like I said I always use my the RSX shop manual so that's my C because I'm following because if you look at these right I'll show you if you look at these right now the cams are actually sitting on top of the the rockers so they're when we start tightening it they're gonna start actually putting pressure on top of the the springs and everything like that and so you can actually crack a cam like that if you don't tighten it in a certain way or evenly down so this is why I'm telling you I'll leave the specs down below in the description on the assembly or the tightening sequence on how to do it for the cam caps follow that and follow the torque they give you we're gonna do that right now and then we're gonna finally put the chain on it one other thing I want to mention too before you start tenting down your cam caps make sure your crank or your your piston your number one Pistons or all of them actually are kind of below the deck and not at top dead center just because when you start tightening it you don't know where the orientation of the cam is right now you don't know which valves are gonna be open and they might actually want to try to hit your Pistons or if you try to turn anything turn the cam you might hit it because it's it's not time and so it doesn't matter if you have valve Clint you know valve to piston clearance they're not in time right now so one valve might open when the piston is coming up and it could just cause problems you might get you'll feel it gets stuck and don't force anything so the way you can tell is right on the block or on your block you have this little pointer right here that toe that shows you where you line up top that's and then on our crank gear we have the other little arrow right here so this arrow would line up with this top one when you're on top dead center and we'll go over this when I start timing the engine but for now just if you had these two hours lined up just move it over so that way your number one piston actually started to come down a little bit in you're giving yourself a little wiggle room just in case your valves start opening when they shouldn't all right so we have all of our cam caps tightened down except these two I tightened everything down in the sequence and then I loosen these two up just because I need this guy to be loose now this is not the factory k20a to guide this is the K 2004 chain guide the reason why I went with this is because of how wide it is now I have to stop k20a to chain guide right here you can see the difference in the width of the two chain guides so going along with kind of the failsafe timing system so you know nothing will jump that's why you upgrade to the longer one just because it's gonna it covers both of the cam gears a lot better less chance for the chain to jump anywhere up here so this is why this is loose because I need to remove this anyway so I could put the chain over them so we have that you guys already know we had lower chain guy this is loose this is also part of the I explained it before just make sure nothing jumps and this holds the lower chain down on here to make sure the chain doesn't move or if something was to jump it'll never jump down here and if you were to do let's say a tensioner you wouldn't lose slack down here as well because the guide would hold it right into its little pegs but this is loose we're gonna take this off to slide the chain over that and then we're gonna once we put the chain on we'll start putting our guides on explain how to time the motor now so before i roughly mentioned to you guys this pointer right down here this is what you're gonna line up on the bottom of your block with your crank gear right down here so you're gonna line these two arrows up this is showing us that our motor is that top dead center but it could be bottom dead center as well so what you would do just to be safe you'll just grab like a long screwdriver or something put it in here and make sure that screwdrivers at the top stroke so that means your piston is all the way up because you could be 180 off with these two lines right here so we know this is good next for the cams you're gonna have to line up these two lines right here make sure those are next to each other those are across from each other they need to go horizontal like this then you're gonna have one dot right up here on your intake gear you guys gonna see that dot right there same thing with the exhaust gear you're gonna have that dot those dots need to be straight up I'd like the 12 o'clock position so make sure these are straight against each other right here both dots are facing up and the motor is in time now these are not actually going to stay like this because sometimes when you're moving these around they like to jump so Honda actually sells a tool for this you don't need it you can just find small drill bits and you have actually see I have to drill bits pegged inside of the hole and these hole this little hole right here actually lines into this cam cap right here same as the other side so that's there's actually a tool to hold the cams in time you don't need it just find anything that will even alan keyes you could just fit something in here and it'll get you pretty rough or like where do you need to be in the ballpark because I know these are these are off a little bit and the way will definitely fine-tune it is with the wrenches or ratchets this is a 17 and this is a 14 so I use two ratchets and I kind of go back and forth to get them in time our chain has colored links I should mention for the chain we're using we're using a k24 chain and k24 guides anytime you go to a k24 Banamine you need to use the K 24 chain timing chain and guides for the oil pump because this is a K 20 oil pump you use the K 20 tensioner and guide and change so K 20 on the bottom k 24 for your actual timing chain or your timing system for your cams now on the chain you'll see it has gold links to right here to right here and then a single gold one right here these two gold ones the well the two that are next to each other they go on the top of the cams the single gold one goes on the bottom on the oil pump because there a little mark on the bottom of the crankier as well it's hidden behind this gear right now actually you can kind of see that little line inside I take this off it probably to get you a better look alright so you see this little line right here this is going to line up with the single gold mark on our timing chain over there and when all of these lines or all these marks are lined up that's how you know you're in time so let me set you up on a tripod and you can kind of see the process [Music] [Music] [Music] you got your timing pretty much spot-on there's just a little gap in my chain right here but I can fix that once I put my attention there on and that's what's going to come on right now we're gonna be putting our tensioner tensioner we're using an inline Pro tensioner I've never used this tension Li before but I've heard any time people go it's an aggressive camp set up this is the tensioner they used because it won't jump so we're gonna try it out and see because it came with our failsafe timing kit we're gonna try it out out of the package mine looks like it's a little too far out and I was just trying to play with it pushing it back it seems like that's as far as I can get it I know with the OEM tensioner you can actually get this plunger and push it all the way in I can't seem to push this one all the way in so I don't know if it's meant to stay out a little bit so we're gonna try to work it up I'm probably gonna have to get a little more slack on the chain so I'll play with the gears a little bit you guys have watched and put it on but let's let's see how this one holds up this one's probably gonna be a little harder installed so I'm just gonna start with a bolt just to kind of have it swing there so I can start swinging everything around I'm already not crazy about this tensioner because that pin just popped out real easy so I'll show you guys how to push it back in if you have to no so if you push this plunger in you'll see this little mechanism right here it'll start to lock it so you're gonna just put a little tension on it and then get this little tab right up top pull it back you're gonna have to find it right there and then you can push it in but you see what I mean now that's basically as far as I can get it when you set this up all over a gun okay so we got it then what you're going to have to do is you're going to have to let it kind of up here you're gonna have to let it click out a little bit to let this swing so we get one click still can't swing all the way two clicks still need a little more okay so there I had to go three which is probably why it's fighting me so much but it's the only way I could get it then we'll put our pin back in it hopefully it stays this time it's already wanting to pop back out again so let's try this again this is probably gonna be a couple tries so I got it on it seems like I forced it in there to its max tension because I'd even I didn't even have to pull this for it to pop anywhere my marks are still lined up yeah we're still lined up everywhere what I'm gonna do and I always do this anytime I put a tensioner on is I'm going to get a long flathead and pry the tank our pry on this guy a little bit to make sure there's no slack left in the tensioner and we got full extension on the tensioner and it won't jump on like it the first startup so I'll just kind of get in here just see if I got anything else in it no it's got full tension on it we're gonna go in the back don't forget to take those drill bits out if you use them and so now our motors timed up so you can see our two marks they're right across from each other you got the dot in the middle of the two gold links here the dot in the middle of the two gold links there then we go down here we have our gold link there none of you guys can actually see back in there you'll see that little line we're losing a little bit of light here all right so I'm shining some light in there as you can see that little line all the way in the back that lines up with our gold link so that's timed up so our mortar if it wasn't blurry our motor is all timed up and we tightened up the lower chain guide so that can be tightened up now I'm gonna go up top retort those top two ones and would throw oil pan on this and the front timing cover okay so now that we have the whole motor basically timed up everything is all good the next step we have to do is actually turn the whole motor and we're gonna have maybe do two rotations what that does is one make sure nothing's hitting anything make sure the motor truly is time it's gonna be hard because this is a twelve and a half to one compression molar but there's no plugs in it so we should spin a little easier too we're verifying our timing so when we're gonna do two rotations we're not gonna look for the links to line up anymore because those will probably they won't line up for maybe another thousand rotations those are just for the initial timing what we're gonna look for is two marks on our gears make sure all of those line up if those line up our timing is good so we're gonna do that right now and do a couple of rotations and retime it make sure everything's good and we're all set so I just spun the motor around a bunch of times those are still good so got one up there got one up there come down here our two pointers are lined up down there and it's gonna be hard to see but there should be another line in there which I can actually see it so we're good our timing is all set on the motor now so now we can actually take this bolt off because we still have to put the pulse plate behind it okay so with the whole front end of the motor everything is torqued down to what it needs to be now we can get our cam trigger so this just slides on right over the front of the crank right here the difference with this cam trigger as you can see there's a notch cut out in this one in the factory ones they don't have a knot they don't have a notch cut out they have like a little tip hanging down and that will actually slide into the groove right here on the crank the reason why they cut this out is because basically the heart of this whole kit is this long key way right here so I have the factory one so here's a side-by-side comparison though the stock one is on the left and the new one is on the right as you can see it's longer and it's longer because that goes into our crank gear which is you I showed you guys earlier it's got a cut out as well so because this crank gear originally from factory the only way it's basically on the crank is that little doubt where you had a little dowel that's on the back of this but I showed you when we were first putting it on it kind of just clicks in that's the only way these actually kind of only hold on to the crank and keeps everything in time so if that dowel snaps this crankier can just kind of spin freely on its own and it'll just throw the timing off and destroy the motor and that's actually what happened it also happened not the main cause but it also happened on my old crank which I should probably show you guys because I didn't even know what happened until I just just started looking at it here's my old crank I have this coming up a little bit this is actually kind of a press-on which also helps it stay on but not I think that's what kept my motor from actually destroying itself but down here is the the dowel that's broken in there and if I throw this down you can actually see on the back right in here we're all you're gonna need a light for you guys again yeah it's pretty dark but well you can even see there's no dowel on this crank on the gear because it sheared off the hole and it's right in here you can see the shadow so this is a prime example of what can happen and if this wasn't a tight press fit this would have spun so that's why I kind of say the heart of this kit is this dowel and the way the machine this whole part right here now this dowel is actually a little thinner in the front what as you can see it's kind of stepped in the front and then it gets a normal-size into the back this little notch in the front that's going to go in forward like this so we'll put it in I line it up like that line it up with this and then we have to line it up with the crank in the back so I'll pull this out a little bit so you guys can even see it slide in so you see the notch so this is going to slide in there just like that then we'll put this over it what I'll do is I'll grab like a rubber mallet just kind of tap it to make sure it's seated all the way back there but this is our failsafe kit right here to make sure this crankier is spinning on the crank via this key right here so it's kind of an extra precaution to make sure it won't spin because it probably won't snap this probably won't I don't know hopefully it doesn't but this is the whole failsafe kit added well this is the failsafe kit and then with my added top chain guide I use that as an extra so you get the machined crankier the cam triggered the crank trigger the longer dowel pin or key way and then you could get this as an extra the lower chain guide and the inline Pro these two I know I added an extra because I wanted them but this is your whole failsafe kit literally this chained shouldn't jump at all because we're locking it and protecting it at every angle of this chain so we'll be fine so I'm going to leave you guys right here because there was a lot information thrown in this video I understand that it was kind of between two days lost a lot of time yesterday but that's besides the point just gives me something extra to show you guys in case you run into that same issue it's normal and I and if it was a little rushed I apologize I am kind of on like a time crunch because I get home from work and I only have certain amount of hours to get this done so if you have any questions leave them in the comments or definitely send me a DM on Instagram I'll be more than happy to help you with those questions what's left right now we're gonna throw the oil pan and a timing cover I'll probably do that off camera because it's it's very simple and honestly it'll I could get it done a lot quicker I'm not filming what the next video is going to be actually as the ATI damper the crank pulley I'm using an ATI one I'll explain why in the next video and that's gonna go along with this whole I know it's gonna be hard to install and yo guys will see it in the next video so we'll just leave it at that because this video it's gonna keep dragging I'll keep talking I appreciate you guys watching if your video helped you out definitely give me a big thumbs up and again leave comments and I'll catch you guys in the next video stay motivating keep Megan on streets louder [Music]

Channel: SERGMOTIVE GARAGE

Views: 75,186

Rating: 4.8693624 out of 5

Keywords: ultimate k20/k24 build guide, k20 timing chain install, k20 timing chain, k20 timing chain tensioner, k24 timing chain replacement, k24 timing chain tensioner replacement, k24 timing chain, how to time a k20 motor, timing a k24, k20 oil pump on k24, k20 oil pump upgrade, k20 oil pump install, sergmotive garage

Id: AUJeYt8MTro

Length: 39min 50sec (2390 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 12 2019