Installing the k20 head on the k24

[Music] and welcome back in this video we're gonna be installing the head on the block and as you can see I'm using a fellow gasket now I know some people aren't gonna like that and you're probably throwing your sunny delight at the screen right now but I have faith in it so it's what I'm gonna use this is an MLS gasket which stands for multi-layer steel so this one is actually for a Honda CRV which is good for up to 88 millimeters so it's why I'm measuring in here so we should get a reading close to that now I know it's kind of hard to see here so what I'm gonna go ahead and do is freeze the frame right here and again I'm just gonna rotate the image and enhance and there you go we're at 87 when eight so that's close enough the reason why we're using a Honda CRV gasket is because as you could see it was at 88 millimeters and the cylinders have been bored out to 87.5 so if you want to stick to OEM or something equivalent this is a perfect option you may have noticed that was frame brake parts cleaner into each of the holes of where the head bolts are gonna go what I did here is just spray them let it sit for a little while I turned the block over and let it drain out and then I hit each hole with compressed air and I just repeated this process a few times until I was satisfied with it you really don't want any junk or debris trapped inside of there and just cause some problems later on down the road now that that's out the way I'm gonna go ahead and clean the surface of the block of where the head gaskets gonna lay and you could probably tell they spend a lot of time here once again I'm using the coffee filters and brake parts cleaner and just keep going over it and invest the time to get it nice and clean now that the surface is all cleaned up we could go ahead and install these dowels now I picked up a new set because number one they're so inexpensive why wouldn't you replace them and let's not focus on the fact that actually lost original ones so that's kind of irrelevant at this point as you can see these just fell right into place and they should like that but I'm gonna go ahead and give them a few love taps not that they really need to but why not right just don't go crazy with it now I can't stress it enough that you do not want to forget to install these tiles because when you put your head on the block these are the only things that keep everything aligned a head bolts don't align anything they just provide clamping force so these dowels are really important just don't forget them installing the head gasket you could kind of see how there is potential for someone here to make a mistake because all of the head bolt locations and everything do match up but some of the ports and passages don't line up so it's really important that you put this thing on the right way I know it has writings and stamping on the guest itself if you put them facing upward it's the wrong way in my case the stampings or the writings on a gasket have to be facing downward and with that in place you could see how the gasket and all the ports everything matches up now I picked up a set of ARP head studs so let's go ahead and open this box up there's many reasons to go with ARP all the way from them being a higher quality product all the way up to them being able to provide a higher or better more consistent clamping force but the main thing that caught my attention is that they can be reused if you go with OEM both their torque to yield meaning their one-time use so if you take them off you have to throw them away and buy another set and I don't really like that because it gets expensive so that's what really caught my eye about the ARP is that you could keep reusing them now Here I am running each of the studs into the block and just checking the threads before I actually put the head on I don't want any surprises when it comes time to clamping it down so it's better to check them now and as per the instructions from ARP you have to clean all of the fasteners or washers and nuts so that's what I'm doing now thanks for joining now you can follow right along at home I'm gonna go ahead and paint some happy little bushes here all you have to do is just dab twist and pull dab twist and pull make those branches really pop this is your world now let's go ahead and clean off our brush yeah just like that get right in there you're a naughty little brush aren't you now I could grab the cylinder head and we're gonna give it just like a final inspection and one more cleaning before it actually gets installed on the block if you're interested in watching a video when I was assembling the head I'll put a card in the top right hand corner right here if you want to watch that you can and let's just go forward with the cleaning again with the brake parts cleaner and coffee filters like I said it does a great job so again some more time taking right here just to get everything nice and clean here I'm just taking my time to try to align the head on to the two dolls that we already put on the block it can be a little finicky but it's not too difficult and you're definitely gonna notice once the head falls into place with all the components clean and dried we can now open up the ARP crease now you want to make sure use only this grease and no other brand or type because all of the ratings and specifications that ARP supplies you with our base off of using this exact crease that they put inside the box now of course you don't have to use a foam brush but I'm using it to try to be a little bit neater and cleaner as far as washers that really wasn't putting grease on both sides at this point because the shop towels that I have down were just gonna absorb it so I mainly only did one side and when it came time to actually putting them on the cylinder head I was gonna go ahead and grease up both sides just as I mentioned earlier I'm gonna go ahead and grease both sides of the washer before install it and as far as the head studs only one side of the studs has actual provisions to accept a head socket so obviously that's the site is gonna be facing up and according to a our P's instructions you're only supposed to put in the studs finger tight and just leave on my set but it kind of seems a little sketchy to me I'm not saying they didn't do their homework just this is my personal opinion so you know do what you want on your build but as far as I'm concerned I'm gonna go ahead and give it just a little turn as you can see I'm using a little screwdriver so I'm not putting too much torque on it but once it gets to the bottom I just give it that little bit of extra turn not going crazy with it Here I am installing the nuts and I'm just gonna run them finger tight for now I'm actually using a 13 millimeter 12 point socket here and it's not the correct socket to be using for this and the reason for that is the sockets a little bit on the loose side and I'll show you that in a second what you want to use for an application like this is actually a 3/8 drive and that's because I'm using a 3/8 drive torque wrench so it's a 3/8 drive 12 point half-inch socket that's a correct socket to use for these nuts and I had to go out and buy that separate but I would highly recommend getting the correct socket for this because when it comes time to torque down these nuts and these head bolts there's so much force that's gonna be applied here that I guarantee you if you're using a 13 millimeter 12-point you are just gonna round off those nuts if you are using OEM bolts you're gonna have to use a torque angle gauge like this one and just follow all of the torque specs and sequences that Honda wants since I'm using a RPS head studs you want to get to 80 foot pounds in three equal increments I started off a little weird so I started off at thirty foot-pounds moved up to 50 foot-pounds and then finished that eighty foot pound now what I like to do is go over each fasteners that I already torqued down after I'm done doing the component set for example here I'm doing 30 foot-pounds and once I finish the last fastener go back to the first few and just check them because you may find it there now on the loose side so I keep doing this for all the sequences when I do the 50 foot-pounds even though you did all of them go over them once again to make sure they're all at 50 foot-pounds and for each sequence I did find that when I went back to the first ones they were a little bit on the loose side so it just make sure you check all of them and that's it for this one I hope you enjoyed the video if you did hit that thumbs up and maybe even consider subscribing if you want to keep up to date on this little build I have going on here I think in the next video we're gonna do obviously we have no choice two camshafts and timing components

Channel: The mech a nic

Views: 197,164

Rating: 4.840796 out of 5

Keywords: k20, k24, honda

Id: NVz62krasJI

Length: 12min 31sec (751 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 07 2019