Detailed K24 Engine Teardown (COMPLETE GUIDE)

what's going on guys welcome to this video my name is Milan and we're going to be taking apart this k24 z3 engine we're gonna disassemble it we're gonna inspect it and we're gonna get this ready so that we can make 300 horsepower out of this k24 so this engine here came out of an acura tsx i paid 300 bucks for this entire engine and cylinder head assembly it's a fully complete motor and this is out of a 2009 automatic 2.4 so this acura has the bottom end that we need and we're gonna be taking everything apart so we can put built internals inside this engine we can put an upgraded cylinder head on there better camshafts and better internals so with that being said we need to tear this engine down we need to take out basically all these stock components and we're going to be replacing them with upgraded parts now to take a part of engine you don't necessarily need super expensive tools to get this done so you don't need an engine hoist or an engine stand to take this apart you can use regular ratchets for this you can use impact guns you can use pretty much anything you want it doesn't matter if you have basic tools or the advanced high-end stuff anything will do the trick so let's get started with taking the cylinder head off so to remove the cylinder head from the block we need to start off by pulling the valve cover off unscrew the three ten millimeter bolts that are found on the front of the valve cover along with removing the dipstick followed by removing the other three ten millimeter bolts on the back side of the cover and unplugging each of the coil packs then using a small pry bar lift the valve cover off of the head I can't stress enough on how important it actually is to keep everything organized so if you guys are taking apart an engine let's say today and you're not gonna be putting it back for a long time making sure that you know what each part is where it goes when you took it off and all that stuff is super important so if you guys can bag and tag everything so if you take a bolt off you write down where it came from also if you guys take pictures it will make the assembly process a lot easier moving on there are a bunch of peripheral components attached to the timing chain side of the engine that need to be removed disconnect the two bolts securing the idler pulley and set them aside to the left of it there is a post mount that is secured by three fourteen millimeter hex bolts following that remove the bolt found in the center of the auto tensioner along with the nut found to the right of it on the side of the engine you'll find this large water pump housing that has a bunch of parts integrated in it like the evap the serpentine belt accessories and a few other things there are two bolts and two nuts securing it to the block slide it off of the studs and set it aside found directly below it is the aluminum bracket for the AC compressor it's secured by two 14 mil bolts baguette and tagging now let's begin with working with the important bits of the engine so let's start off with the spark plugs since we won't be reusing them we don't need to keep track of which one is from which combustion chamber just take them out using the proper spark plug socket I'll have those special tools linked in the description box along with any other tool that you see in this video with the valve cover off we can inspect things such as the camshafts the rocker arms the timing chain the upper timing chain guide the camshaft towers and a bunch more we can see that this engine has VTEC found on the intake side as there are three different lobes from that camshaft now the exhaust side as you can tell only has the single lobe which means it does not have VTEC in order to remove each of these components we need to remove the timing chain that connects the crankshaft to the camshafts to fully expose the timing chain we need to remove the timing chain cover the crank pulley and the bolt fastening it to the crank now this next part gets a little bit tricky so to remove the crank bolt you need to use this special Honda tool that fits inside the harmonic balancer found at the front of the engine so you're then gonna have a 1/2 inch ratchet through it and you can see that the bit just goes right through it on that end and then you're gonna need a 19 millimeter socket along with the half inch breaker bar holding the 19 millimeter bolt that's found inside of here this is what we need to crack this bolt loose I tried using my regular impact gun to remove the bolt and when that didn't work I tried my even larger one both of them couldn't break it loose same thing goes with me using a two-foot-long breaker bar the thing wouldn't budge time for a cheater bar look at how much this lower breaker bar is flexing with it cracked you can continue unthreading the bolt by hand the bolt has a washer built onto the backside that comes out with the bolt you should be able to simply pull the crank pulley off of the crank and it should come out along with a little square pin called a keyway that will then allow you to remove the timing cover there are a total of 15 10 millimeter bolts securing the timing cover up to the block not including the additional 10 millimeter bolt for the VTC actuator starting off with that bolt and the VTC actuator take them out follow it up by going around the timing cover and remove the 15 remaining bolts twelve of them are found on the actual cover and the other three are found on the bottom of the oil pan facing up there is one additional 14 millimeter bolt that's found on the side of the cover now if you can have a small pry bar you'll be able to break the silicone free that's on the perimeter of the cover now before you do that ensure that you've removed all of the bolts as I myself didn't with this last bolt remove the cover should come off really easily bag them and tag them as per usual that will expose the entire timing chain assembly the chain tensioner and upper portion of the oil pump chain using a ten millimeter socket loosen both bolts then remove the left bolt first to allow the tensioner to spin and then remove the right bolt that will allow the timing system to have some slack moving to the top remove both bolts using a 12 millimeter socket on the cam caps as the upper chain guide is attached to them for the rotating lower chain guide there is a single female hex bolt securing it at the top you can see it spins easily on the bolt flange for the stationary lower chain guide it's secured with three ten mills take them out with that extra slack we have enough clearance to remove the timing chain it should look something like this when you're at this point there's a couple markings on the head and the VTC actuator showing which generation k24 engine this is with the timing components remove from the car we can now go ahead and remove the camshaft assemblies so everything from the intake and the exhaust cams are gonna be coming out all the caps for the camshafts along with the entire valve train that's found underneath there's a total of 20 12 ml bolts holding the cam caps on to the towers in addition to one single 10 mil found in the center cap with all these bolts removed grab some channel locks and rotate the cam caps to release them be gentle when doing so but after rocking it back and forth you will be able to release it repeat this until all 5 cam caps have been lifted from the tower take note of the different bolts used to hold the caps into place also take note of the cam cap orientation from the VTC sprocket moving towards the transmission side the caps are numbered 1 through 5 with all the hardware and caps removed and set aside both the exhaust cam and intake camshafts can be taken off of the towers now the rocker that we have up here is a single roller with no VTEC this is for the exhaust side this intake side you can see there's three different lobes and this side here has VTEC these two arms run independently from this one however when VTEC is engaged there's a little pin and spring that's found inside of both of the sight arms that shoot out to lock together to this rocker here now when we're taking all this out we need to keep all of this together otherwise it's gonna be a little bit of a mess trying to put this back together later so what I'm gonna do is push all three of them up I'm gonna put a zip tie underneath it and then what I'm gonna do with this push them back down and then what that's gonna allow me to do is zip tie every one of these three arms together you can then repeat this same procedure for every other rocker that has VTEC so that's gonna be all of my intake if you have a Honda let's say that has VTEC on the intake and exhaust you're gonna have to repeat the same procedure for this side as well on the flywheel side there are two sensors found on the cylinder head that are camshaft position sensors they're both held in place with a single 10 mil bolt remove the bolt and spin the sensor so it will give us enough access to the other 10 mil bolts holding the cam tower to the cylinder head jumping back to the timing chain side grab a small pry bar and lift the tower from the holes in the cylinder head try not to be too aggressive when doing so because both parts are soft as they're made out of aluminum this will then expose the valve train components a very quick inspection will tell you that the previous owner of this engine did not perform their oil changes at the correct interval as there's a lot of sludge built up on the cylinder head I know that some k 24s have an oil burning problem that's due to incorrect piston rings that are being installed from the main you now there's been a big recall with this in my engine that's in my Honda was actually fixed under recall for this exact problem so this engine right here might also be one of those engines that has had those problems because if your car burns off any oil and runs low the oil will get contaminated very quickly and if it's it's it will look just like the oil that you're seeing here black gross and it's sludgy and thick moving on we need a 12-point thin wall socket to remove each of the head studs they'll be found between each pair of valves on both the intake and exhaust site using a breaker bar and a cheater bar crack each one of them loose and then to save some time zip all 10 of them out using an impact gun at this point there won't be any more hardware securing the cylinder head to the block so using that same small pry bar from before separate both parts with the cylinder head off of the actual block you'll be able to see that inside of here we have each one of the Pistons in each one of the combustion chambers now if we take a closer look we can inspect the sides of each of the combustion chambers to see if there's any kind of scoring so there's no damage to be found even though the top of the engine look to be pretty gummed up so this is all great now what I'm actually gonna do is spray a little bit of wd-40 or engine oil or something in here to act as a lubricant because I want to turn the engine to make sure that everything is spinning and working as it should now a healthy block will still have some cross hatches found in the combustion chambers this allows the engine to lubricate the piston rings and glide up and down the liner with little resistance if you see any gouges or irregular imperfections that we'll need to get honed at a machine shop with everything looking good we can continue with tearing down the bottom end as I mentioned earlier you don't need any of the fancy tools like an engine stand or an impact gun but it does make life a little bit easier to show you that it can be done without those spin the block onto a soft surface so it'll allow us to work from the bottom since this is a used engine and there's a bit of dirt and corrosion on the outside going around every seam that you're going to separate with a wire wheel is a great idea it knocks off rust it prevents dirt from entering into the engine and it doesn't take too much time using a 17-minute remove the bolt securing the flexplate up to the crankshaft I will be needing the flex plate or these bolts as they only work with automatic transmissions the flywheel and their appropriate bolts are different after taking the flex plate off it will have exposed a couple bolts and moving around the pant you can see that there's still a bunch more that need to be taken off remove each and every one of them and don't forget to bag and tag them grab your pry bar and split the oil pan from the block with the pan off I found a couple of these small pieces of plastic found on the inside and even after fully disassembling the engine I have no clue where these plastic pieces came from if you guys have any ideas where they came from let me know in the comment section I am all ears next up we need to pull off the massive oil pump the oil pump chain tensioner needs to be removed just like the timing chain tensioner from before with the male tensioner bolts and the female guide bolts removed we can take the chain off just kidding there isn't enough slack the pump has to come off in order to do so there are one two three four five bolts holding the pump to the block and with them off you can angle the pump downwards which will give you enough room to slide the chain off when removing the pump ensure that you also remove the o-ring that seals the pressurized oil to the engine it will either come off with the pump or stay on the block ensure that you actually have it removed the oil windage tray then needs to come off with four ten millimeter bolts then grab the crank pulley and slide it onto the crank we need to rotate the crank shaft to expose the two hex bolts securing the connecting rods to the crank loosen them both and lift up on the Conrad cap rotate it then 180 degrees and then using a long object it doesn't really matter what it is push on the connecting rod to slide it out of the block ensure that the bearings don't stay on the block when you're removing them as they're color-coded to the crankshaft to ensure that you have the best fitment possible after you repeat the process to all four Pistons the crankshaft is the next thing to be extracted there are ten large main bolts and fourteen smaller bolts for the smaller ones you can use an impact gun but I wouldn't recommend using that same gun for the larger bolts once you have them unfastened by hand you can then zap them out but I wouldn't suggest breaking them loose with especially if you're going to be reusing this block or this crank as usual grab the pry bar and split the girdle from the block pry it from side to side to encourage its upward movement as there are some dowel pins in there to ensure that it goes on straight you can see the crankshaft spins nicely and easily and we can remove it from the main journals you can see the main bearings are still on the block along with the oil squirters that spray oil onto the backside of the piston they're all held in place by a single 10 mil bolt that will complete the engine teardown and inspection for my build I won't be using most of these parts I'll be reusing the valve cover the camshaft tower the oil pan the timing cover and the crankshaft all of the other parts will be changed out for new OEM parts or upgraded pieces if you're going to be reusing any of these parts from your car it's crucial to take your time with the disassembly label everything that you can and take note of what goes where mark down what color bearings are used in your engine for your main journals and your connecting rod journals check for cracks along the block and girdle inspect the liners for vertical scratches or gouges and examine the crank one really nice thing about Honda engines is that the crankshaft is forged from the manufacturer so if you guys are doing a high-performance build where you're putting forged pistons and rods inside the engine you don't have to worry about let's say getting a new crankshaft because it's ready and it's super strong as it is as long as the crankshaft is in good condition we can use it for our build so with this our 40 block which is the K 24 Zed 3 engine with this engine disassembled we can go ahead and we can further this build so what I'm going to be doing is going to be taking parts from this cylinder head from this engine I'm gonna be using them on the new cylinder head that I have I'm gonna be taking some parts from this bottom end and I'm gonna make a concoction of a mess to make 300 horsepower it should be really sick out of this 2.4 liter if you guys want to find more information about this build you guys can find more info in the description box if you guys aren't subscribed click that subscribe button because I've got some really sick stuff coming out for this thing I'm gonna be using a lot of om parts along with some aftermarket parts to get us to make 300 wheel out of a 2.4 liter na so I've got a lot of work ahead of me click that sub button so you guys stay up to date with me and I'll see you guys in the next one peace [Music]

Channel: milanmastracci

Views: 167,379

Rating: 4.9180536 out of 5

Keywords: milanmastracci, milmast, automotive, honda, acura, k24, k24z3, k24a2, k20, camshaft, piston, crankshaft, connecting rod, teardown, disassembly, disassemble, remove, take off, strip, oil pump, timing chain, chain guide

Id: gLrXm-wOCKE

Length: 15min 43sec (943 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 24 2020