Four Cuts - A Wood Turning Basics Lesson

there are four main categories of cuts in our turning world and the moment you understand their concepts not only is the results you're gonna get off the lathe going to dramatically improve but your enjoyment of the craft will just explode and those are basically understanding the planing peeling slicing and scraping that you can do with just about any edge it all comes down to understanding the interaction between edges and grain so welcome to worth the effort woodworker E as we dive deep into some basic fundamentals of our craft [Music] now we are going to be talking about the various edges or the various tools that you will collect if you want to get into the craft and be able to do the three basic types of training we do spindle turning bowl turning in and grain turning which is like making boxes and flat cups and stuff like that and we're gonna be covering the SKUs a roughing spindle and bowl gouge a couple scrapers in a parting tool that is the bare minimums most of you are going to collect but before we get into that because all of this is just the interaction between edges and fibers it's probably a good time to talk about grain direction now I know a lot of y'all have already had this hammered into your head but for those of y'all just new to the craft I'm gonna give you a brief explanation and you can go out and get a lot more else elsewhere but real quickly let's talk about grain direction for the most part a tree is made up of long skinny fibers and the standard analogy is it's like a bunch of straws that are kind of bound together then unfortunately the glue between those straws isn't very strong but the straws themselves are have you ever tried to squeeze a straw without bending it in the middle I mean there's a lot of strength there trees in compression have a whole bunch of strength they are not going to compress down but you take that straw laid on its side because there's air in between them you can crush it this way fairly easy that's why we build houses not by stacking up like the log house yeah they make well cows but when we cut up the Timbers we don't stack them sideways like that we put them in compression and you can see that one when you think of an example of a guy cutting firewood he goes out he wants to chop a tree down he's gonna chop it down sideways so he comes out he takes the axe you can hit that thing as hard as you want as much as you want and it's going to be very slow going to get through that tree whereas if I just come over here and just take a light hit it splits a really really easy because those fibers were very the bond between those fibers is weak it's why when you cut down a tree you never strike it straight on you basically come out at angle separate the fibers out and they will break up because the fibers in between the cells are weak and practically peel it off once either side is cracked now if you are a follower of way under heal he talks extensively about how cutting tools can actually work as either a wedge or an edge when I'm cracking off this this flank right here do you see how the crack is way ahead of the edge so I'm actually using this axe to split it and the wedging action is leverage against the grain now I can't take that same tool and Whittle all day long and it won't be splitting it's just giving a nice smooth cut and it basically comes down to the difference being whether a fiber is being supported where it's not being supported now let's take a flat board simply because that ceases way to explain this concept of supported grain if I wanted to smooth this out with any kind of sharp edge I could easily do that one and you get a perfect finish right off the blade depending upon which direction I am pushing the hand planks if I were to push my hand playing this way all those fibers right there are lay each other down they're pressing each other down they're being supported on the backside so that you can just slice them off but if I were to take my hand plank and go the other way all of a sudden look at that fiber right there there's nothing behind it to support it so it will want to crack along the grain pattern so the only reason why we don't get monitor cracks when we are hand planning is because they designed them with the mouth so the mouth of kind of hold it down a little bit but you get a little bit of cracking off and that's what we call tear out it is literally tearing the wood fibers out of the board as an example I've got a little oak board right here and you can see that the grain is running from here up to the top so as we push forward we are pushing these fibers down if I were to plane in this way and when you do that when you get just a glass smooth finish in fact you can see the individual cells right there but it is glass smooth now if I were to take that same board and flip it and then rotate it around so now we are going against the grain right here watch what happens even in the fibers themselves you can see all the bigger holes not only the ones that are with the grain but interspersed throughout it and there's a lot of sections that are just blown out all that's to say that if you want a smooth surface straight off a blade the fibers you're cutting have to be supported behind the cut or in front of the cut otherwise it's just going to break off its gonna split now we do take advantage of that weakness that's whiffing aspect all the time and turning it comes down to whether using your edges as wedges or edges now all wood working with maybe the exception of laser cutters which follows rules more in line with science fiction is based off of the simple edge your green woodworker that probably the simple form that would probably be the axe if you are a furniture maker you're probably looking at a chisel and on the lathe you're most definitely looking at the skew it is the simplest InDesign tool there is that you use and because it is so simple a straight edge it has a lot more flexibility you can do more with a single chisel than you can do with just about any other to other it can be used almost as a hand plane they saw a drill whatever you needed to do it can't accomplish it might not be the most efficient or fast but it can get the job done the same with a skew it is a straight edge all other tools are based on it so let's take a quick look at how skew can interact with wood now with the skew you are able to plane wood you're able to peel wood you are able to slice wood and you are able to scrape work each one of those not only created different shavings but they gave you different results and they interacted with the wood in a different manner let's go back to planing right now we're doing what's called spindle turning in that it's a lot like hand tool woodworking where we have a flat board we took a tree we laid it on its side and now we're just rotating it around the axes so we're taking a consideration supported grain going with the grain well we can kind of look at it like a board we have grain running straight across the piece as you can see hopefully that's how you you got it from the tree right here all that grain running it straight across now as long as I'm cutting down towards the center of the spindle in that direction notice those fibers they're all being laid down they're being pressed down it is all supported grain but the moment I tried to cut what they call uphill and turning all of a sudden look at that fiber right there I'm basically lifting it out so it will tear out so when you're planing the key thing is you always want to go towards the center of the spindle when your steno turning because it's laying fibers down now real quickly I do want to analyze the edge of my skew a little bit more because when I explain how the all the other tools I'm using this as a reference now you might notice that my skew has somewhat of a curved profile when you look at it and that's a little bit straight and then it curves down and then comes down and then you have your bevel coming off like that don't worry about that everybody kind of prefers a slightly different shape whether it is straighter or cross or straighter down or maybe some people like them straight across and then curved out some straight that's somewhat irrelevant for what we're discussing today well I want you to focus on is the angle the the edge of it now most everybody I know in the modern world sharpens their tools on some kind of grinder so you get a somewhat concave one excuse I know a lot of people that will hand sharpen because they want them dead flat but dead flat or slightly concave it's kind of the same in the modern day world I do not know anybody that does a convex style now when you grind it on a grinder what most of the time happens is you'll get an 8-inch curve right here kind of like that and obviously I'm exaggerating that doesn't really matter because most people will hone their skills on some kind of stone just really quickly and having that curve right there means when you touch these two points right here and right here you get the desired angle you're going for and the interaction with the wood that's going to be the angle you're working with the curve kind of disappears in real-world applications but because you hone it with a flat stone these two points are going to be in plane so when you examine my skew you might see a glint of light reflecting here and on the edge and that's where I have honed both sides by taking my stone and kind of rocking off the bottom and then bringing it forward until it just touches the tip it totally over skips this intersection which is ground you can see the grind marks and that just means that I'm removing less material on both ends which you had to do it on both sides to sharpen it it makes it honing at the at the lathe a lot easier it also gives me three points I have to focus on cuz in order to make a planning cut I have to have this this and something on my tool rests touching now a hand plane works properly because it has a sole you see as you shove the plane through the wood the blade itself wants to dive in it catches it dives in but because it's locked in this there's a soul there the soul prevents the blade from going in so you get the shavings coming out without that soul a plane would not work properly and oh cool look right here I have all the grain coming this way except for right here we reversed ever so slightly talking about that tear out because the grain is now unsupported here can you see that tear out well turning tools work the same exact way except for having an entire plane blades plane soul all we have are these bevels these bevels work as a soul and if I'm planning something long and straight I'm actually gliding this bevel on the wood and this edge wants to dive into the wood but this one prevents it from diving too far forward if I did not have this edge in this wood dive in and you would get what's called a catch so whenever I am working with this plane you will see me I will touch the to rest always to the tool rest first I will touch that bevel down to the wood and then I will rotate it over and I'm going to engage the wood on the blade about a third of the way up now explain that why in a second and then because this back bevel and this bevel are both touching I have control with my tool handle as for how far deep it goes but if for some reason I were to twist too far and that back bevel comes off the blade itself wants to dive in and we get what's called a catch I cannot control it if I don't have that back bevel on there controlling how far in the blade wants to dive I also want to you to grasp this idea of the supported Club well let me clear this off real quickly so we can get a smooth finish but once again that's a tool rest touch F bevel down and maintain a forward moment motion while I'm cutting winter engages move across with now what you also saw was that the wood was coming off the gouge at about 45 degrees see I'm centering it right here 4045 degrees is a kind of a general angle that you're gonna find useful for a lot of different wood turning tools or any woodworking tools so I'm going to touch touch that bevel down twist into it and engage it right about there but I want you to notice it if I'm engaging it there look at where it's touching the Taurus because I actually had to twist this side off to engage the blade that is what's called a supported edge of the cut because the force has come now I didn't explain this very well when I did this so I'm going back to edit it real quickly but what I wanted to talk about was a supported cut you see the shavings are coming across right there the bevel itself is touching right there my direction is going this way so if you form this triangle between direction cutting edges and stuff like that that is a supported cut if I were to touch the tool on either edge right there right there it would be too far out of the supported range and it would want to torque the tool one way or the other causing a catch let me straight back into the tool rest if I were to twist it a little bit farther off of that it'll want to catch and if I twist it a little bit farther this way the nose is gonna dive in and I'm gonna get a catch that way so you want to basically work off the bottom edge of your tool because it's the tool is rotated this way and the last little nugget when you're planning is you must never stop if you're planning along taking an ice shaving getting forward momentum the moment you stop that's when it's going to want to dig in and track it's that fordable Menem which keeps you getting nice smooth shavings don't stop it'll track back on you so in review of planing cut here basically always going with the grain by going towards the center of the wood that is laying those fibers down they tend to come off the blade at about 45 degrees does that's how the angle that they're presenting it and the shaves themselves are going to look like changes would get from a hand plane mice long curly kids now let's look at a peeling cut the peel is probably one of the most underappreciated cuts in turning because it can waste away so much material so quickly and then you can go to other cuts to refine it and what up why do I say that but let's look at the end result nothing about this cut is refined you seal this tear out on the end that's because we were basically splitting the wood we're going we're taking advantage of the weakness of the wood going up and down the tree that's why it is so fast it's like when I was splitting the the board with the ax you could take off huge chunks at the same time and if you look at the shavings we got off each one of these is a long fiber going off up and down and they split incredibly easy there's nothing really holding these long ribbons together in fact I have some planing shavings right now and I have some peeling shavings if either just take my hand and scrunch them up like that all that's really left are the planning shavings because all the peeling shavings just fall apart and because we are splitting the wood all the fibers are unsupported so as you're going down this direction see they're just all torn out that is not a smooth cut at all yeah now a peeling cut is actually taking advantage of the weakness of the wood it is more like splitting the tree slowly piece of firewood going with the grain and causing those straws to separate out that's what we were looking at there but the thing is the tools we are using we don't want to dive in too fast so if I have my turning blank and it is rotating around this way I have my tool rest right here okay and then I have my skew and remember my skew has two bevels on it and a curve so I had the top bevel bottom bevel the grinding curve right there so that these two points right here are in line well when I was planning this back bevel is what controlled the depth I don't have that option this time because this curve right here is a lot smaller than the eight inches on my grinder so really the only part of my tool that is going to be touching is going to be this tip right there luckily that tip has a flat caused by my homie action so I can use this the back section of that tip as my depth control now one issue a lot of people have is they would just take that edge going toward the center and they think that they touch it and they dive straight down that's not really the case because we are dealing with circles you actually have to arc into the center so what will you a lot of time to do is you always start the arc forward coming down right here and when you get closer it goes a little bit straighter you're just the real world aspect of turning so I'm gonna do that I'm going to try and go fairly slow when I'm peeling it I don't want you to watch the park I'm actually matching this bevel to the curve right there and using that back section as my death control to take nice thin straws coming off not big huge chunks so with the peel I'm going to be presenting the top of my skew so it's in line for the center axis I'll get a nice flat surface the start up high I'm going to touch that bottom bevel then go raise it up until I see changes coming off but if you notice at that point my back devil is in the air I'm just controlling the depth of my cut with the bottom of that front edge where I flatten it out and from here I'm going to push forward now if anything bad happens I push too far forward I just go into air no big deal I can back back up and tusky shave and push forward again and I'm going to arc towards the center of the black once again touch lift down these shavings are towards the center of the black if I Ark a little bit I get bigger shaving I can also take fine shavings it all depends upon how far down you're letting your eggs dock but once again the surface that leaves because we were splitting and not going with the grain is just atrocious now the next cut we're going to do is a slice and this most is similar to how a soft frost cuts aboard I'm going to come up I'm going to place a tip and the motion is still going to be the same as when I peel it I'm going to come move forward and down towards the center and just going to take off a very edge twice my way down and the advantage of this cut is the end result is gonna be very very smooth almost finished ready not the tip of my tool is probably a little dull right now but that's that's a slicing action now a slicing cut is also taking advantage of the weakness of the wood because once you separate those fibers remember there's not much holding those long straws together once you cut them in half and if I cut it close enough the angle of this my skew on this side will kind of shove those excess fibers off severed them and then the wedging action pushes it off to the side so here we go once again I'm going to start up high I'm using this side of my bevel to align perfectly straight I touch it knowing about how much of the wood I will be able to remove that's the kicker because if I come over a little bit too far over if I fishing well there's too much resistance on this side there's no there's more meat there there's more support there so I cannot continue going the woods gonna fight me back I can only take off enough so that the natural motion of the wood will separate off and this is actually how you make these cuts is coming from either side that direction you're doing you're just taking off enough so that the outside was several but when you need your end grain to be finished ready there really isn't much that's gonna beat the results you're gonna get by slicing that angry scraping is last cut what she makes about that is it happens at a negative angle let me explain for the most part when you're cutting wood you're cutting it at a somewhat laid-back angle so it's positive right there on the angle so that the blade actually wants to dive into the wood and you have the sole preventing it back as we discussed earlier and that's how you get those nice and curly shavings but what's different is with a and you are scraping you're not cutting with each edge you're cutting with the bird and the bird is a little bit piece of metal that has been rolled off of the edge so it's somewhat curved up so you actually have to roll forward in order for it to be positive to engage and what happens is that bird engages it into the wood the shavings come up and hit the plate and just roll over and that becomes your depth stop because it's not going to want to go any deeper so whenever you're using a scraper you basically lean it forward to engage that burr or the edge and you can go forward like that you get nice shavings and what's cool about this is you can go in any direction because it's not going to be diving into the wood it's not going to be breaking fibres off because they're actually getting crushed against this plate so scraping with your turning tools is the same exact thing you just got present the edge in a negative angle you don't necessarily have to have a burr on it because we have a lot some more speed in our favor but it has to be at a negative angle now a lot of people when they will see somebody do this with a skew they think oh they're going in a positive angle because we are presenting the skew going up and the rotation of the pieces coming around this way so it looks positive but you had to understand the top edge of that is just ever so slightly below the horizon it is going down a little bit to engage that negative angle and how far down kind of effects the shavings are going to be coming off so as I present my tool to the edge I'm looking at this angle I'm presenting it not horizontally but slightly negative to the wood and I will get nice shavings scraping like shaving much like those that we were getting with the card scraper they're flying away in the air but they're not those long strings that are in either the time here feeling or planing now you can scrape in any direction scraping the face and a lot of people would use that fact now I'm now scraping straight in drag you can get ribbons when you're scraping in grain but those ribbons are just the little calamari of the cells and they will crush away into the sawdust if you squeeze them together now I will say this scraping is the quickest way to go your tool okay the general rule of thumb I go by is you've got about eight seconds in any one spot of your grain but I've been scraping right 980 seconds now and guess what I'm not getting any shavings off my toe is now go and I need a resharpening and the surface you gonna get when you scrape kind of depends upon what kind of fibres you're doing right now when I'm scraping this end grain right here what those fibers are somewhat supported right there so I can get a fairly smooth surface on end grain but as I transition to long grain right here notice the difference between planed and scrape the color difference we've got microscopic Terra all over the place and some pots where it's just really really rough because as you're rotating on those fibers well once again they're weak this way and if you are severing them all the way across not only is it going to be rough where the initial break is but right here it's not going to be soothed because they were basically split off on a cellular level and not planed off so in a review one of these cuts took advantage of the different aspects of how the edge interacted with grain I will only consider two of them to be finish cuts something that you could go straight from the tool and apply wax or oil or whatever and be done with it those would be the planning and the slicing because in both of those cases the fibers that were left behind were supported before the cut so you got a nice surface when I was peeling i'm dramatically taking taking advantage of the weakness of the wood and basically just breaking it off and for the most part i'm doing the same when I'm scraping unless I'm going scraping straight in the endgrain anytime you do any kind of angle off of that ingrain you are now kind of on a cellular level kind of scraping away unsupported fiber so it's not going to be the perfect finish but it will be good enough that you could probably start with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and be done with it from there so now that we understand how those four cuts playing peel slice and scrape can all happen with a straightedge let's look how this edge relates to the other tools and I want to start with the spindle roughing gouge now side note the entire industry is really trying to get people to use the term spindle roughing gouge with this tool because it is only designed to work with spindles you do not want to work it with face plates or face crane for like bowls or hollowing boxes or anything like that it's just not designed for that it's completely safe for spindles but not for bows and such like that and I go into that wide a bit in depth in some of my other educational videos on bowls and boxes and stuff like that they all comes down to the design of the tang the shaping and that kind of stuff now what makes this tool so cool is it is probably the best tool we have for wasting away material in spindles because remember me talking about peeling and it being the most underrated cut this tool is basically a straight edge that's no role if I a map like this you can see that is it's completely straight right there it's only curved because the curb because they rolled it up so they basically taken a skew and just rolled up the edges as such this can really only be presented one way to woodworking and that's with the blank coming this way and it presented straight on because if you turn it sideways your edges are going to catch and you can get a catch and that brings me back to that supported edge we are now looking somewhat down on my here's a to arrest here's a to blank when you have a somewhat round tool this might be a bowl gouge or a spindle gouge or something like that when you present the tool to the wood the supported part is a part where the tool is resting on the tool rest so that bottom section of - you right now is now supported and I can make shavings if for any reason whatsoever I would route up these sides right here they will dig in because the support is right there in torque around torque around so the only spot that's ever supported on a round tool even if it might be caked over is ass part right underneath where the tool is on the tool rest so this is completely safe for me this is completely safe for me and so is that but if I were to be here and trendy engage aside all of a sudden it will want torque around it's much more prevalent on spindle and bow gouges but if you notice there's really no way for me with this tool to present it at much more than 45 degrees that this tool is the premier tool for wasting away material on a spindle gouge on a spindle turning because it basically seals but slices both sides now if you remember whenever I peeled with my skew I basically came off the edge was free but this edge over here because I was ripping the fibers off from the end it's just all torn up the advantage of the round section is I'm actually touching the wood with a u and as such I'm actually severing the fibers on either side before I peel it up so I can actually do that one this peeling cut anywhere on the blank I don't have to do it just on the side so notice the difference this is me peeling with a skew in the surface is it left nice and flat because a skewed tool itself is flat but the difference was it's all ragged on the edges and this is one for the pecan but you got long shavings of those fibers that were just basically the straws lightly held together whereas with the spindle roughing gouge you get these use all the way across because the bottom of the tool was round it but what that meant is it severed the fibers on either side and peeled away the middle and you ended up getting those same kind of cross grain peels but now they're more like frito chips they're thicker in the middle and thinner on the sides because it's feathered out that's why you could use that spindle roughing gouge anywhere along the surface whereas I was only comfortable using the skew on the edge as I said earlier the peel is probably the most underrated cut we have and the spindle roughing gouge is so efficient at roughing away material and getting square stuff down around removing bark and stuff like that because all it does is peel but it has the advantage of slicing a little bit on either side because of these wings coming up it's kind of like taking the skew I'm going think fit and then think like that and allows you to peel anywhere on a log I also like this one because it's probably easiest tool to sharpen because all you do is you put it on a 40 degree in platform and just go for it Brooke like that there's no jigs there's no nothing so this is the tool that most of us use to waste away all the material we want and then refine it with the other tools because it doesn't really matter if we dug this one quite a bit it just it takes seconds to resharpen where the other ones might take a little bit more skill and a little bit more time to dip now let's talk about the other curve tool so spindle gouge and the bowl gouge am I'm grouping these two together and separating out this round tool because this is polar opposite of those two because it doesn't have any wings that were swept back remember it's slicing on the sides and peeling in the middle well these two the wings are are come back that's why they call it a fingernail grind because it kind of looks like your fingernail well instead slicing on the sides you basically slice with a tip on these two and either peel or plane with the size exactly opposite of that roughing gouge which is why you can use these on a lot of other different types of turnings such as end grain and Bowl turning and not only that but it's also chilling much thicker metal so let's take a closer look now everybody's shapes there's spindle and Bowl gouges for their preferences there's lots of different styles this is kind of a fingernail grind on both of things with swept-back wings some people will sharpen their bow gouges you know slightly come back but almost like the roughing gouge just slightly recessed others will have the wings coming way way back all of that has different advantages and disadvantages it's just kind of personal preference but that's irrelevant for what we're discussing today today I want to focus on what's actually happening at the fiber in the edge now the difference between a spindle in a bowl gouge is mainly the flute depth because if you notice on this one the flute only goes about 1/3 of the way down where on the bowl gouge it goes almost 2/3 of the way down and that gives you different aspects to the interior angle that's happening with the exterior angle and the surface area you can touch with the gouge now I want you to look at this right now if I turn this spindle gouge just slightly sideways can y'all see a similarity here between that and this skew I mean basically we have a straight edge coming straight up here it is somewhat straight even though it's a curve it's pretty straight right there with these swept-back wings you see that very similar and even the angles when I got this so it's coming straight up and this side when it's coming straight up this side right here is really similar same with the bowl gouge present it so that the side bevel that sharpen is straight up and down and then I position the same with my skew now see that real similarities and the bowl gouge because this is what they call a parallelogram bowl gouge where it comes fairly straight down the sides and then they use and then straight up it's not a country you I get a much straighter interior surface right there so it itself acts a lot more like a straight skew whereas in the tip of it if I were to rotate that all the way over can y'all see with the wood slicing up and down coming pass it up and down that tip is very similar to the tip of my skew now when you're using these rounded tools like this basically it is a left hand and right hand tool if you draw a line right down the mental and I'm gonna just cover half of it and black and leave the other half clear well you basically have your right hand side and your left hand side so anytime you're cutting in the right hand direction you're going to be leaning the tool so that that right hand wing is lower and you're cutting off of the lower wing you never cut off the upper wing so going left hand left hand direction I would either rotate it the tool and either present the wing or the tip going in that direction but always cutting off of the lower wing so we're back at the lathe and I want to do a straight peel with my skew a star high I come down to Z shaving I push forward and a narc okay look at the end results I have a very ragged edge lots of torn fibers in here but over here it's straight but it's not exactly smooth because I split this center section off so now I'm going to take my bowl gouge okay using this edge right here just as I did the the skew uncle present it to the wood I'm going to lift up the wood is coming into that edge at a straight angle I'm just going to peel it down start this heal my way down let's look at the difference I still get these straight across here and it still has the minor tear out every now and then because I was splitting those fibers but now look at this look at how smooth that Ingrid I don't have the torn fibers here that's because at this angle this tip of the tool was trailing ever so slightly behind this area was planing in that very tip right there it was slicing those fibers so if I come back with my skew and now I'm going to slice just about halfway down so that you can see the comparison to see that they are practically identical come back in come up by my bevel right down and look at the results very very similar in smoothness maybe a little bit rough on the bowl gouge the Bulldogs probably a little dull but you get the idea now I can do the same exact thing with my spindle gouge but remember me talking about the different angles we had when we presented these because the bow gouts flute was deeper thus making this interior angle a little bit steeper that's not as deep in relation to the bevel I have right here thus it's gonna it's not as much point peeling as it is scraping whenever I get it to the point where I want the tip to be the front section of it remember on the bowl gouge the tip was trailing behind a little bit this time it is leading so I can come over here I'm lining my belly up of my tool in a straight line this angle right here is coming back at about 45 degrees but it's not feeling or plenty of angle because this right here it's negative to the wood more like a scraper but come back again enter that's coming through we are getting nice clean cuts on the end grain you could see all this tear out right here because instead of peeling it was scraping which was a lot rougher but watch this I was taking the thin shavings because that's exactly like the skew could do because remember there was resistance on this side but with both of these tools I can now all of a sudden take much bigger shavings come all because not only is it slicing the ingrain like it did with the skew but this section is getting rid of that not just using that wedging action of the other bevel of my skew in fact in boat earning that is such a you cool aspect it's why a lot of people will use their bowl gouge in place of ask you when wasting away material because they can get that clean in grain by leading with a tip not leaving with the wing this time leaving with a tip well I'm in my bowl and I can take huge cuts and this is definitely peeling not scraping look at that angle about music and compare the finish now this finish is not perfect you do see some tear out right there because I was getting really aggressive and really fast with it it's one of the situations that the more you rotate up so that the more you're engaging the peeling action of the bowl gouge it somewhat reduces where the tip is the tip actually flows behind that peeling cut whereas if I rotate forward a little bit the tip leads so I'm severing the fibers first but all of a sudden this now becomes a negative angle so it's just scraping so if I do that one it's a lot slower the peeling is a lot faster than slowing then scraping but look at the end result okay I'm going to start out racing slicing first then scraping I rotate it around peirong first in strafing second and you should be able to tell a pretty big difference in that the Wow oh there we go and that the lower section has tear out because it was cutting the fibers and they were no longer supported because they were already peeled away whereas when I was rotated forward the tip severed the fibers first and then peeled him away second so that those fibers were supported so that's peeling and scraping using that lower wing of both of those curved tools the spindle and bow gaps so now let's go back to you planing with planning I am touching my tool to the tool rest I'm touching the lower bevel I'm rotating and and I'm moving forward if at all possible I'm moving more towards the center of the wood so that I'm laying those fat fibers down okay the end result it's a somewhat smooth finish that you could probably hit with 220 right away and be done with it the key thing was the wood is rotating this direction straight into the blade like that and the blade itself is coming right around 45 degrees so they hit sat for that 45-degree angle well we can do the same exact thing with our bowl gouge and because that interior angle and the exterior angle is roughly the same as the speed everything should work out but touch the tool to the tool rest at such a lower bevel down I rotate in and right about when I see it engage I start moving the chisel I personally do not like doing it this way because I actually cannot see the cutting edge when I'm standing right behind it because this wing is covering up the cut angle because I'm having to rotate so much farther forward but and result nice smooth actually a little bit smoother than this cube because this angle is coming farther down like that so it's even more supported but you can plane with the bowl gouge the wood doesn't actually know the difference it just knows that a blade is being presented to it have 45 degrees it's going downhill so all the fibers are being supported and just to show up hot that's possible here is mine spindle gouge once again touch lift I find this one's easier because the interior angle or the flute isn't as great so I can actually see the edge while I'm standing the downside is my distance between the bevel back to the bevel and the front edge is so much shorter on this tool than it is my whole gown that you can see the undulations it's a little bit harder to control a straight line that's what makes just standards fee is so great because there's a longer distance so it's easy does it make a straight line that doesn't mean that extender speed can only plane only slice or a neck heel you can actually transition from one into the other and it's a easily exploit demonstrated if you are rolling a B there's a lot of times people will either use the lower tip and it start up slicing manner and just roll it around like that or I will typically playing my way around and just slowly start removing here you and you will end up in a final position and somewhat slicing cut you roll it around you see now slicing off of the edge okay and you'll get that nice transition of a bee well a spindle gouge can do the same exact thing you can actually start out planing and then rotate in this life or you can come in this way rotate it around into a slice I'm working around the camera so my lines are nice smooth you can even what you can do with this that's a lot harder up on a standard skew is I can start out with a slice and end up in a plane and make the code slicing wood off the tip coming back down transitioning to the lower part of the blade raining and when you get that you get the transition of the smooth finish of the slice to the smooth finish of planting supported crane so you can start out with your 220 grit I just can't emphasize enough wood is stupid it was stupid when it was alive it's stupider now that it is dead it can only interact with the the guidelines that nature set with it it's going to be really strong on the end grain because of compression so we have to kind of slice that in order to get a good result otherwise it's going to split and break along because it breaks along its weakness that going up and down so slicing and planing generally gives you a supported cut so you're going to get a great finish but peeling and scraping generally don't those are unsupported cuts most of the time so you get that rougher edge because the wood just broke off now I want to throw some curves at you we've only been talking about spindles now let's talk about end grain hollowing the third one the second one of the three kinds of turning we commonly do and that's like when you're making boxes or cups or something like that now when your spindle turning working with the grain so that you're always cutting supported fibers is fairly simple I mean just a second ago we we had our blank I had a live Center on one side and then I had the drive Center on the other and the grain was running straight so anytime I wanted to cut a supported fiber I just worked towards the center I could work toward the center this way this way coming in this way working off that way but in each one of these cases when I removed the wood the fiber underneath of it was always supported by more wood I would have never cut this way because that fiber whenever I cut it there is nothing above it to support it so it would have broken off it would have been the weakness of the wood would have gotten this tear out and the crack and maybe even a little bit of a catch but we are about to go the ink grain turning round so we are not going to be coming from the outside anymore we have to somehow hollow out the middle so maybe we can make a chalice a cup a box or something like that and if you notice if I were to start from the outside and come in this way that fiber right there there's nothing here to support it it is unsupported so think about that what direction do you have to do if instead of working from the outside in we are now going from the inside out [Applause] it's pretty self-evident we now have to start from the center and work our way out to hollow because working this way these fibers are supported in the cup there's something behind it preventing it from breaking out from getting tear out but I have a second ticker that don't think you thought about and this kicker is going to totally eliminate one of the tools we're going to be using so I want you as I describe it I want you to be thinking what tool can we no longer really use effectively you see when your spindle turning you have the log in front of you and it is sprint spinning toward you so in effect the rotation or the movement is in a straight line towards you but we are now taking that straight log and we're turning it on side and we're gonna anchor it on one side so that we can come in on the end of the tree so the rotation is now in a curve so whenever we hit the wood it's not coming the movement isn't going straight down it's curving all the way around because of that we have one tool that has an absolutely straight edge so no matter how you touch it it's going to want to that tool wants to interact with wood in a straight line most of the time unless we're talking about the skew because if I were to touch the tip or the edge it's just going to want to launch off and because of the curve it's gonna want to move so traditionally we don't use a skew an ingrained turning but we're still going to use the same four cuts the plane the peel the slice and the scrape in in grant turning we're just using the other tools to do it now go start our discussion about end grain work by revisiting scraping so quick refresher a scraper is basically a straight edge and we present it at a negative angle to the wood meaning we tilted it down a little bit and that will engage a bird which is a little bit of metal that's been rolled over the edge and that burr is the cutting edge so that the shavings come down they hit the thing and they flake off now when we were spindle turning meaning when we were coming in from the side of the tree well that was more of a even though it's striking it's a peeling cut don't get the best finish Sam thank you see it it is all it'll be all torn out but it is very easy to shape it with sandpaper after the fact now when we were coming in to ingrain well we were giving nice shavings because at that point it's fine we are no longer peeling it we're actually slicing it you see when we were slicing you were actually cutting well if that burger is actually coming right over here in the woods coming across we are in in fact slicing and we get the same kind of shavings we would over there but you notice because I'm on this strip right here it's curved I'm basically slicing that front to get finished over here but the side because it's coming at an angle it is more flaming so right in the dead center I get those slicing kind of shavings that are short kind of keep broken off but the more I come out to the side I start getting longer shavings as if I would appealing right in the milk coming straight across I am slicing notices shavings the more I come out to the side and it's presenting it as an angle I'm more planing now the same thing is true with my spindle gouge I could present it straight on in and that tip this point be scraping thus slicing those side fibers but notice this swing right now instead of scraping at a negative angle all of a sudden it sent a positive angle much like as if I were taking the skew from the inside of the tree going to the outside and you can get those kind of skew shavings so I'll just present it in the middle and notice the kind of shavings I'm getting notice the angle I'm presenting the tool to the wood I'm having lower of my tool rest of a little bit so I go in so I'm I placed this spindle straight in straight that tip like bringing that the angle out to the side so now this wing right here is kind of claiming at about that 45-degree angle you see even though I changed the orientation of the grain this time I didn't change my tools all the rules still apply you just have to think it through now I typically don't use a bowl gouge on here but I do know a lot of people that do I just like the lower angle brought upon by the lower flute of the spindle gouge and most of my hollowing I would do with a spindle gouge until it gets fairly deep and then I can't get the angle I like the upward angle so that I get the planing that 45 degrees at that point the rest of my in grant hollowing is just pure scraping because the scraper at that point can do the slice and the plain that gives me a good result because those cuts are supported a string you see with bass brain work we have additional problems brought about by grain you see in spindle work you take the tree you lay it on your side and you rotate the tree around okay fairly simple to go with the grain you go towards the center and on in grain hollowing basically we're just coming out from the center middle that is always laying fibers down either way you go but now we're going to take that tree and we're going to turn it end over and so the question becomes how do you lay fibers down well in profile it kind of makes common sense you have your bowl right here well in some directions if you are turning from the top and moving down this way all those fibers are laying down but if I do the same thing up here those would be tearing out so on the inside of the bowl it makes sense to start from the outside and work my way towards the center but from the outside of the bow it makes my way sense to work from the center and go to the outside but we have a problem at this entry level right here it could be going either direction just spin from how the tree grew so you have to kind of think about everything but in this situation it's not 2d you're just not going towards the center coming out we now have grain that's running up and down like this and it's rotating so at some points around the rotation if you're turning you're going now against the grain because if this is hollowed out towards the middle off some of those fibers right here and right here there's nothing behind them it's open air those are going against the grain whereas here and here you're going with the grain so coming with the bow turning or face plate turning where you turn the tree end-over-end you're constantly having to go with the grain against grain with the grand advance of grain even in the situations where you're going with the grain confusing Anna so in face plate turning where we are always turning as a woods coming down on us you just kind of do the best you can you know at a couple points in each one see the grain is running right here if I cut in this direction it is being laid down but when I come back over on this side over here that is going against a grain that fiber right there will kind of break off so more than likely I'm going to be getting tear out here and here whenever I turn this bowl but I would be definitely getting tear out all over the place if I started from the center and kink out from the inside of the bowl because the grain of the tree itself is running fairly straight it's got a little curve to it but it's it's fairly straight so coming this direction from the outside of the bowl this is laying fibers down but from the inside of the bowl that is laying the fibers down so it's one of those things you do the best you can you can either go totally against the grain or you can do the best you can and just be against the grain twenty-five percent of time on these opposite corners or you could just scrape the whole thing because if you remember scraping kind of ignores grain direction but it will never get you a finish ready surface or even one day where you can start in 220 and 300 or 400 you're gonna have to go really deep with your sandpaper to get rid of all the tear out that it induces because it induces minor amounts of tear out whereas point against the grain in certain sections can produce major amounts of tariffs and the way to avoid that is do all your turning and then resharpen your tour the last pass because a sharp tool will kind negate most Tara but it also comes back to how you're using your tool are you planing peeling slicing or scraping those easy wood tools are really popular because you don't have to worry about any of this you just deal with the scraping and sand it all out that has its positive and minuses speed being the biggest - in my opinion so as you work a bowl generally what we're going to be doing as always you're gonna be working on the bottom wing of whatever you're doing but most of the time with a bowl gouge you can be leaving with a tip because we are having to do with end grain right here long grain right there in grain long grain and if you are too plain in grain you're gonna get a lot of tear out but if you were to slice in grain it's a smooth cut if you were to slice long grain you get a smooth cut but it's kind of slow if you're too plain long grain you also get a nice cut but it's a lot faster so it's a damned if you do damned if you don't most of us choose to slice the long grain for a slower cut but get a smooth cut all the way around so here's what I do I will start in the center work my way out leaving with a tip planing with the bottom wing and you get these long shavings as it is a planing cut this diameter right here is planing into the wood the tip it to the tool touches the slice of fibers that makes a little shoulder that the we the to itself can press against so that the planing action comes along notice where the bevel is on the tool it is in line so that I am now claiming I have I had the tool mainly closed meaning the flutes are parallel with the ground you slice that initial wall whoops see that skate back remember me saying that you could couldn't will use a skew on a round surface because it moves well if I'm slicing with that tip it's acting like asked you if I don't have support on the backside that's cube because it's turning in a circle we'll go with it that's called skating you can skate one way or the other mainly this direction that happens so what we do is we kind of put a little back pressure with our hands so that we can establish a wall so that is skate it wants to skate back but that wall is there and then we can rotate the tool so when we get the planing action so we get her a nice flaming getting established that wall by slicing those end grain wall so slicing long grain and then claiming to get the shavings and notice I'm doing this at a slight angle so that I'm going with the grain that now I can come back a quick skate so I didn't you stamp it to my wall I establish my wall I wrote to get a better peeling cut and once again you can great the whole thing just understand with the normal straight for after about 80 seconds it's gonna get dull slowly stopping cutting up pressing harder and harder and harder to do that that is the advantage of carbide if this stays sharper longer but it's not going to stay sharp forever so there we go we have the four main types of cuts that you see all over wood turning to plain the peel of the slice and these straight and we did it in the three main categories of turning we had spindle turning we had an gray turning and we had faceplate turning often referred to as bowl turning and we tried to explain that all of those were just the interaction between grain and the edges we were working and pretty much all the edges were a variation of the skew you can present that edge four different ways so that you can play in peel slice or tight now there were some advantages to having the curve tools in that they were like a skew and multiple different angles at the same time so that you could slice and peel slice and plane or plane and then move into a slice all at the same time or in the same movement all of those really do give you a smoother end result because you can manipulate them so all the time you are cutting supported fibers and avoiding the unsupported fibers that give us the nasty Terra well I hope you enjoyed this video and if you did please like favorite subscribe do all those social medias understand that this is kind of a value for value proposition for me and a lot of other youtubers if you're gaining value out of it maybe you could return a little visit our website because I have swag t-shirts hats and with my little logo I also sell a lot of my own woodworking and SHOP made tools there and all of those really do help subsidize this channel plus there are other ways you can help us out that you can find out on the website but after all this learning about the four cups the three different types of turning how the all that interacts with grain so that you can support those fibers and get a smooth result I want you to remember the most important thing that it is always worth the effort to learn create and share it with others so y'all be safe have fun get out in the shop and make a mess

Channel: wortheffort

Views: 141,978

Rating: 4.9205432 out of 5

Keywords: wortheffort, woodworking, wood working, wood turning, woodturning, turning, plane, peel, slice, scrape, gouge, skew, roughing gouge, spindle, bowl, box, basic, DIY, craft, lathe, technique, techniques, skill, Sorby, Thompson Tools, Crown, Carter Sons, Oneway, Robust, Jet

Id: KXzEjCorWO0

Length: 71min 49sec (4309 seconds)

Published: Tue May 28 2019