Threading Metric Titanium Rod

[Music] we're gonna get started on our next little project here so this is a this is a job that I'm doing for one of my viewers he contacted me some time back and asked me would I be interested in helping him thread three pieces of titanium so he supplied the titanium this is 12 millimeter and he just sent one piece and what I did was I cut them to length and I actually cut them just a little bit long and I'll face the ends off so we got one at 215 one at 250 and then one at 330 millimeters and link there and then on each end it's going to be threaded 17 millimeters back on each end at a 1.25 thread pitch all right pretty simple although I rarely do I ever cut titanium so it's hopefully it's not going to be that much of an issue but I went ahead and took the sample piece that I had leftover and I went ahead and yet just did a little practice run got the lathe set up for the right thread pitch and you can see that we've actually got a pretty good-looking part right here everything looks great I just did just like I was going to do those right there and what I'm going to use to measure the thread pitch right here is my stereo thread pitch mic now I do not have metric thread pitch mics all I have is you know imperial sizing so this one is good for 20 to 24 which is going to fall right in that thread pitch want 1.25 so what I do have is a metric go/no-go gauge for 12 by 1.25 so what I'm what i have done is on the go side i went ahead and measured the thread pitch here with the inch thread pitch Mike took a note of it and what I'll be shooting for whenever i thread mine is approximately two thousandths of an inch smaller than what this thread pitch is right there alright I do have a sample nut I've got a little kit that I keep all different sized nuts in and it fits the the go gauge just absolutely beautifully so you want just a little bit of clearance in that and that's what I've accomplished with my sample piece I've gone in there and got it a couple thousandths undersized and it fits the nut really nice so what I'll probably do is go ahead and set them all up get the ends face we're gonna machine an undercut with a radius tool and in turn the OD down about 5,000 scuzz this is exactly 12 millimeter and then once I have all the ends machined ready for threading then we'll go in there one at a time cut the thread we get one side thread flip it around cut the other side all right so let's go down to the victor lathe and get it done all right we're set up to do our threading now I thought I would go ahead and show you the the machinery setup on on the Victor lathe you got to swap out the quadrant gears and so we're going to be cutting a 1.25 right there so this chart tells you what gears you need to run if you see a go across to this line right there and down to 1.25 it's telling you that gear a right there is a 5202 have the 127 the 105 and then the 70 at the bottom whenever we're normally running up here on this one you've got a 25 to 3 at the top and then a 50 to Keir at the bottom so really the only difference is we're running the 50 tooth up here and in the 70 at the bottom I'll show you what I'm talking about here so swap out the 25 for the 50 here and then on this side you're gonna flip this one around and then install the 70 on this side right there so 50 and 70 and by the way the gears still look good and clean last year we cleaned them and I put the wd-40 gel lubricant the spray and state gel lubricant on there and it still looks really good and I went ahead and applied a little bit more once I installed the new year so the lubricant is is looking pretty good been on there for several months now and it's still good and tacky and keeping the deer teeth not nice and wet there so we are ready to start doing our threading now so I'll try to mix it up and give you a couple interesting shots show the threading up here and then I'll put the camera over there so you can see the way that I work the controls so whenever you do a metric you pick one of these lines right here that you want to engage the the lead screw at I just use one so I've got my blue dot there is a reference and typically when you're doing this kind of thread and you never disengage the half nuts but the style that I have adopted to and the way I like doing it now is to release the half nut stop the machine reverse the spindle and then line up the blue dot to back out the carriage and that allows you to get up really close to something and then disengage it with you know without worrying about your carriage to slow down coming in and hitting something you know in this case being the Chuck against your tool right there I'll show you what I'm talking about so each one of them I cut about two millimeters long using my metric rules so we're just going to fool face each side and make them look good was though like 30,000 went inside it's not shouldn't be that critical on that absolute link there [Music] [Applause] [Applause] I'll just do everything in steps or in stages so I'll get all the facing done and it once we get all the facing I'll pull them out we'll do our undercut and our OD turn on each end [Applause] [Laughter] I've got my 500 millimeter steer it rule right here I'm just gonna butt it up against this block and I've got the run the rod here that that we faced I'm just going to check it against the rule so 3:30 is right there and it looks like I'm just to shade over the line so we're gonna call that one good on three thirty these there was no kind of tolerance on these links right there so you know if you're within ten fifteen thousand so that should be just fine so I'm right there on the 330 line there's our 250 quick check on it to right at it about a line over 250 there all right one more to face off last up for our facing 215 millimeter and we are on it right there 10 15 yep looking good all right so now we'll go on to our under cuts and turn our OD down about five thousand chamfer the ends - I got a 1/8 wide radius tool there just touching in and so we'll go 17 millimeter step over here how to be 670,000 and in our touch off let's go I'm going to go a hundred thousands I'm going to use some Molly D for the lubricant here just like that get rid of our nasty chip so I've got the material exactly 30 millimeters from the face of the jaw there so all we're gonna have to do at this point is just flip it around flip it around and then make it 30 millimeters from the end right there just like that and we should be lined up within a few thousandths of our zero mark on our indicator alright I'll keep repeating that on the the other two there we're gonna go ahead and get the diameter turn now I want to put about $5 so it's measuring exactly 472 which is 12 millimeter so I'm going to turn it 5000 under go ahead Mike it and make sure that we're there around 467 or for 68 it'll be good enough I'm only 470 right there take a couple more I'm just gonna leave the cross slide set right there yeah okay we're at 468 so we'll leave the cross slide set to that point and we'll just flip it around it was just one end or even just one rod one on each end I'll probably just do it all get all one side done and then and then flip it around to the other side but once I get the threading set up I don't want to change that I want to just go to each one and thread it please make sure double-check it should be good for 68 all right we'll get the other two threaded now are we ready to go ahead and get this thing going we'll make a scratch pass and then check our pitch I'm running 370 rpm just waiting on my blue dot to come around and once we get to the undercut I'll disengage the half nut back out and what I'm going to do is reverse the spindle it engaged a half note on that same tick mark and then leave it engaged and just stop the machine that way you can kind of take your time I'm going to run the carriage back into zero the cross slide I mean and then take the thread pitch gauge and check it just to be sure that you're on the proper pitch there and in fact we are on 1.25 so now I can go ahead and start making some cuts I'm not going real deep on these cuts I'm doing five dollars at a time on the cross slide there we're gonna use some of our Molly D and one side engage the clutch we're gonna be moving and ready to cut it's very easily back it out come back into my zero dial in five more on the compound and hit go once you get used to the rhythm it's it's pretty simple to keep up with it [Music] this is just the way that I like doing it I I adopted this threading style a few years back and ever since I started doing it I've loved it [Music] we'll go ahead and we're going to get this one finished out and then we'll set up a different camera angle so you can kind of see how I'm working the machine now I've got a red dot on my cross light here and I'm gonna sneak up on that and we're gonna we're gonna mic it after this cut take mine I'm gonna take a file and hold it backwards on the thread just to remove any bird that might be on top of it there just like that blow it off to get rid of any chips and I don't know if you can see it or not this is where I'll take my thread pitch mic and go ahead and start getting some measurements on it and get it threaded down to the thread pitch that I wanted that that feels pretty good right about there so yeah we've still got a little little ways to go come into our zero get a feel for this thing it was good right about there all right still got a little ways to go not much all right that one Drive at the bottom side of what I wanted to thread it at so just check it with this standard knot right there it seems like it's fitting right where it needs to be so that one's ready to go and what I'll do is I'm gonna go ahead and make sure that it's filed good disengage the half knot just get rid of any of them burrs that might be on it in that last thread where it rolls over into the groove there you want to get rid of that there as well alright it should be ready to go that end right there I'm gonna come back to all of them there's a there's a sharp edge or sharp bird right there where this undercut is but I'll come back in later with the chamfering tool and cut all those last two get rid of that sharp edge there's one detail that I had left out so we've got our cross slide set to zero I've already got the tool touched off by the way this is set to zero this is set to zero and then I set this mag back to indicated right there with a zero as they back up to this one right here because I have had plenty of times running this lathe and other lays where when you go back to zero it's not in a true zero position it's moved forward so so whenever I go to back out the tool like this and then you cranked it you bring the carriage back and then you're ready to go back in and reset your cut so you bring this around the zero like so and in your line and that one up on zero as well so these should match and this one should never change so usually if if if this is off just slightly I'll watch the mag back indicator go up to zero and then I'll judge it right there but see they both lined up there perfectly so a good little trick to do just to kind of help keep yourself on track right here and making sure you're going back to the same zero every time all right we're gonna start on the next in there so we've got all of our zeros set dialed in five thousands on the cross slide waiting for my half nut coming around here to do tick mark I want I don't have to check the thread pitch because I haven't changed anything on the machine come back into our zero go another five we'll go ahead and put a little Molly D on there this time gage I'm a hand on this half not leader to disengage stop it with the foot brake I have to reverse it on this side [Applause] [Applause] just keep doing this get it down where we want I got a little red dot on the collar here of where I've machined the first one - so I'm approaching that that red dot [Applause] [Applause] so now I'm at the point where I want to go ahead and start measuring it with pitch money that's what we'll do next and working our way down to our finished size once I come down here to stop it's best to go ahead and reset it to your zero because sometimes you forget and you start moving and you got to bring it back in the zero before you get down to your thread there all right still got about five thousand to go [Applause] getting ready to start our next one here bringing the dot around [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] I think that might be it right there good fit and right on my red dot where I've been threading the other ones so I know I'm good right there go ahead and give it a like check with the pitch mic right there I'm right where I want to be [Music] we got all the threading done so I'm going back in there with them and we're gonna remove this sharp edge here and then give it a little polish with some great scotch brite just get rid of that sharp is there and we find the file a little bit of a file right there and I'll take this gray scotch-brite double it over just give it a little polish help remove any of those little fuzzy pieces still there in the thread so then at a nice soft feeling thread there that's not sharp so we'll just repeat that on all the other ends till we get them all done this one's completed though all right we got all of our titanium rods finished up I'm happy with the results I think they look good and neat so these belonged to Ed and I think it is gonna hopefully he'll he'll like the way they turned out you should be ready to go and again this was just the this was just a sample this one right there just extra material that I wanted to practice on and so those are done he did seeing send these two pieces here these are some aluminum parts for whatever he's building to go along with these titanium rods that just needs modified so this one's got the counterbore in it and he sent a print along this other print and I'm gonna I'm gonna work on these next and get these knocked out so here's this guy right there he needs that inner bore bore to thirty two millimeter so we're gonna knock that out and then he's got the other piece here that's got the the mail you know the OD here and he needs that turn to twenty point seven five millimeter so those are other two little pieces that we're gonna knock out right there go ahead and get those done and then Ed's after that its parts would be finished up [Music] [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 174,523

Rating: 4.9576015 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, machining, manual machining, lathe, lathe work, thread cutting, single point threading, titanium, titanium threading, machining titanium, victor lathe, carbide threading tool, carbide insert, half nuts, machine shop, job shop, quadrant gears, quadrant change gears, metric rule, starrett

Id: CbZukAVi8hU

Length: 29min 8sec (1748 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 24 2020