SNS 300: Spray Welding a Blower Shaft

[Music] well know how much you guys like the spray welding and I think I have a spray welding candidate here in the shop to do so this what's really cool is that this job right here that I have to get done actually was sent to me because of my spray welding that I showed on the channel there so I have a had a nice company reach out to me and asked me if I would be interested in helping them with a spray weld repair on this shaft right here this is a this is a pretty expensive shaft to have to replace because the way it's designed it's got this you know it's all one solid piece got this flange here turning around so you can see the backside there so I've got some kind of register on this side right there where registers are here on this on this fit and bolts up and I did not go into details on the what exactly the shaft is for but I do know that it's a you know it's a company that deals with pumps and pumping systems so this is probably some kind of shaft out of one of those one of their industrial pump systems right there and what's happened this is this bearing journal is worn down and this is what they asked about was if I could spray weld that for them that's the repair they were looking for so they got it sent down here matter of fact this is the tolerance that they give me that they wanted this bearing fit to be machined within plus or minus 3/10 on that size alright so upon inspection as soon as I started looking at this thing I noticed there's a real sharp edge right around the shoulder air right behind the threads and I got in there looking at it real close and appears to be a speedy sleeve on this bearing fit right there what's to me is not a very good repair I know that they're they're good in the field when you trying to do an emergency repair especially on an oil leak or something like that but just not really an ideal fix and this it's a severely worn down so a matter of fact we're three point nine 36 and I know I'm already about 10 to 12 thousandths under that which is quite a bit so right there I'm getting 9:23 924 so yeah about 12,000 so under the problem that that poses for me if as far as doing a spray weld is that it's already going to be undersized some so I'm gonna have to it's it's really kind of throwing me off since the sleeve is that far under I don't know I don't know why the bearing journal is going to be that smallest somebody turned it and put a sleeve on there so depending on how thick this sleeve on here is I may not be able to spray weld this because you you have a tolerance there of how thick your your your build up can be whenever you do a spray weld so if it ends up being too small for the spray weld what we'll do is just turn it down to just above the diameter of the threads and it will machine a heavy sleeve and shrink a sleeve on there and then turn it back to size but I won't know until I get it in the lathe and start turning this off I can tell that it's very thin I can just feel an edge sticking over that shoulder there with my fingernail so hopefully we can just knock that off and it'll still be within size to do a spray weld so anyway that's the repair job let's go ahead and jump to it just inspect in the center there we've talked about this before sometimes the center has been hit you know somebody's hitting on the end of the shaft with a hammer it'll mess this up but it appears that it hasn't been marred in any way it's just rusty and corroded so I'm gonna polish the end of the shaft off with a side grinder there a polishing wheel and then get in there with some emery paper and just hand clean the center out before we go to the lathe [Music] I'm still getting used to the fact that I've got a nice parts washer back here the CRC smart washer and I was cleaning these threads off and that little bit of grease that gets packed around those shoulders there so I brought it back here and this is doing a good job you know that stuff out of there I love having this new fork washer man it's awesome these next few clips I somehow lost the audio in there something happened to the audio in the video so I'll just kind of talk you through what we're gonna do so what I'm demonstrating here is the importance to pre setting your Chuck and getting your machine ready for the workpiece especially when it's a big heavy workpiece that you got to bring down you know tote down and install into the Chuck so get your jaw's preset I had them preset there so that I can stick it in there and you know push it over into the Chuck and then tighten the top jaw down so that it holds the workpiece and once you get the top jaw tightened and the pieces secure into the chuck then you can move down to your tail stock and push the tail stock up in there lightly enough to where you know that it's gonna hold the workpiece to keep it from falling out of the Chuck when you come back around here and tighten the edge all in front you can see that it just moves a little because I didn't have it fully centered up when I stuck it in there that's the importance of having the tail stock in there just to hold it but I didn't have the internet would have just fell over so once you get it in there like this go ahead and install the soft gels these are just some brass thick pieces of brass hem stock that I have cut and you put those between the jaw and the workpiece and provides two things there it keeps from marring up the workpiece and it also adds a little bit of slippery surface there so that the jaws aren't grabbing so hard on the material and keeping it from moving around because this workpiece here we're gonna have to bump and indicate and if you get those jaw too tight on the on the metal surface there they get really hard to to move so you need to you need to have it to where it'll slide around a little bit so brass copper or aluminum they all work great for soft jaws that's just what I call them so we're just gonna initially get it kind of Trude up here this isn't the you know this isn't gonna be the final indicating this is just getting it centered and once we get it kind of somewhat running center then we're gonna start checking the flange face and move into each into the shaft getting it true all right I'm gonna go from there we're within 1,000 right there let's go ahead and move it and let's see let's go ahead and check it out here on the Outer Rim alright notice I swapped out my indicator tip here for the wide radius and that's so that we can sweep over this big key way here without a bunch of issue so we're not going to put put put much preload on this here yep see I'm definitely crooked so it's doing this in the in the Chuck there I don't have it straight yet so we're gonna have to what I really need to do is make sure that this this end down here against the the Chuck is bumped up through first and then we'll go back to our indicating we got it up here on the flange and you can see so I'm at about 13 12 about 15 thousands so we need to bump this bump this around now to put us a lot closer that's within 1/2 all right now we can do our Odie's so we're going to go ahead and start on this end right here closest to the chuck so we can make sure that this end is indicated and we'll move out here to the outer end all right so that's our high and then bring it around and give it a little tap and we've got it within looks like one and a half now that's real tricky too to get out let's just lightly bump it that's our high if you don't get it out though and you run the center in there it's still going to be moving out on the sand so you got to get it running true before you put your Center in there now back to the other side I think that might work right there so what I'm going to do now that we've got it really close we're gonna run the center up in here it looks like we got it less than 1000 available it with that I did some more tweaking with the camera not rolling just to get it out of my way so that I could get in there more comfortably indicate this so we've got this in a half a thousandth and then if we come down here to the seal journal let's put it here it's under it's like a half a dowel there so we got this thing running nice and true and we are ready to start cutting our journal now we're gonna use this tool here mchm in and i want to try to get an idea on how deep that sleeve is let's just come right here in the middle somewhere set at zero well that's already 50 thousands right there so I maybe have mistaken on a sleeve this could be just rolled over the metal rolled over that far that might be all it is is that the the journal is just worn so bad that it just rolled over I was just cutting a bevel there to cut that edge off hmm that might be just solid material in that case let me get in there and do my proper undercutting that I need to do so I'm gonna go ahead and prep it like we're gonna spray weld it and then do my undercut and if I am mistaken that it is a sleeve in there as soon as I started doing some preheat here you'll see it start heating up and I'll know that I've got a stop and just go ahead and turn that off there so I'm gonna go ahead and coat the threads real good I hate cleaning that stuff out of threads and we're gonna we're gonna get this area right here good too all right so I'm gonna let that dry and then I'll start doing my undercut we're gonna go ahead and carry on with our undercutting and I ground up this high-speed tool right here and the purpose of this is that I can get way over close to that shoulder with this tool right there and this is the the proper angle that you should have on the sides is 45 degrees or you know a tool with a 90 degree included angle so we'll touch up both sides with that and I'll be able to get in there just gonna go as far over as I can get right about there we're gonna take it down about fifty thousands total I am going over that key way in case you're wondering don't want the chips to scratch my asking there so that deep groove in the middle is it will be fine what we'll do is we'll just we'll build that up first as long as you've got a deeper groove in the middle and you're not doing the whole thing at a depth beyond what you're supposed to it works fine let's finish this thing out with our high-speed tool just get our touch off so I know I'm going about the same depth at all we got to do is just touch it really and try to get as close as I can to that shoulder so not about their going into my threatened tool and we're gonna make one scratch pass with this it's gonna touch off and go in about fifteen waiting on the dial to come around there we go so there's our journal ready to spray undercut threaded so we got a little setup to do with my torch so get it over here and once I'm ready we'll start spraying it I've been holding on to this real nice barely used roto tech yet I think I want to go ahead and put it to use we got a torch in here that looks like it has been very little used and it is a vintage kit this thing is several decades old but it is in beautiful condition and pull it out of there this is what you use if you want to hold it in a lathe in a tool post right there look at that guy it's in great condition there's the torch barrel there and we've got plenty of the powders up there I'm just being the one that I use on all my build ups the 1995 still a bunch of it in there too so I want to set this guy up I'm gonna I'm gonna test it first before I actually start spraying and make sure that's working good and probably use that one there and on the inside of the lid there this gives you all of your information on how to properly spray everything I've been talking about in my videos is all right here on the back of this this lid on how to undercut it and then how to preheat it and code it and then machine it pretty cool stuff and then this this right here is the silhouette silhouette you lay the torch over that to make sure that your adjustments are correct on your tube and your torch too all right here we go so we got to get our freebies we use our bonding to with her where the knock it off very often itself we got it I am maybe it's measuring me that [Music] I'm gonna go ahead and clean this up right here and using the grinder I got my fila tractor onto forgot the earplug I say this before but just want to reiterate it what I usually do after I pull the fire cloth off before I move the carrots I go ahead and wipe all the ways down just to remove any of the dust that falls down on it because I I used that fire blanket for of course spray welding and other jobs too so there's dust on the blanket that'll get down there so I always clean the oil off first so that it doesn't like stick to the ways with the oil and then wipe them off real good and I just take my oil can and just put a little bit more oil on there so yeah now we're ready to go I really have always liked using micro 100 and the the last spray will job I pulled these two out and we use these so I'm gonna go ahead and use them again for this job these are the 3/8 raised on car buy tools but I think that the mica 100 brand has a good high quality grade of carbide and it's not like the old school where you had different grades to you know for if you're doing cast or steel whatever this is kind of a one grade fits all type application so just good quality tools in my book and this is just where I had restocked my supply you know different sizes and different different types you know for threading and chamfering right left hand you know quarter-inch use these like in the board the boring bars so anyway we're going to use the mic one hundred today I'm going to start on the inside and cut from left to right to get rid of this raised area there and then once we get this area kind of cut down then we'll go from right to left and we're running approximately a hundred surface feet per minute we'll see how that does and if I need to if it starts burning up the carbide then we'll slow it down don't take big heavy cuts with it either ten fifteen thousand really is all you need to take at a time [Music] [Music] so that's that groove that I had cut in the middle there [Music] [Music] [Music] okay let's see if I drag across here a little bit yeah come back into my zero and we clean this out up to match it there I got my compound turning around here on 45 degrees and I want to come in there with the compound and hand feed this edge right there where I've got that chamfer machine and that powder is rolled over and that's the proper way to do that is to take little cuts instead of coming in there and trying to cut that all at one time it could peel that off there so you just want to make little cuts with it [Music] okay so we're down to our last ten thousandth and it's looking real good it's a uniform all the way across so what we'll do is I'm going to speed it up now and take some light cuts to try to improve the finish and get it down to where it needs to be 264 rpm right here we're taking a five thousands cut depth in a five thousand speed read you can see how it improves the surface finish there it really only works on the finished cuts like this when you're taking a very light cut if you run this speed when you're trying to rough it it seems to burn the tip of the carbide off so you got to keep it on the slower speed when you're roughing all right I believe that was my finished cut so let's see yes so that's going to give me eight tents to polish down to bring it to our high end of our tolerance right there so we were shooting for three point nine thirty seven and we're at nine thirty eight so really yeah that gives me that gives me eight tenths to polish it down awesome all right I got some 220 and also some 320 grit Emery cloth and that's why I used to give it the final polish I'm going to go ahead and just rip that one side off need to be completely flat on the journal it'll just pull hard on it on the side you see I got the lathe that the way is covered up sometimes it doesn't take much you see that powder coming off there that dust that's the high spots of the toolmarks and sometimes whenever you do that right there it'll take it down a few tents instantly so you just got to hit it a little bit and check it because you can you can certainly go too far very quickly if you're not careful with it so I took it down it looks like two three tents right there yep took it down three tents so I really don't have but let's see we got about a half a thousands to come off of it now I'm checking both ends to make sure that I'm staying straight with my polishing so we're at 9:37 and 5/10 so I got three tents to come off all right so you can see it's works pretty good once you get it down to that last thousand and it's looking nice and pretty to polish it out real well so I'm gonna finish getting this polished up and bring you back I don't want to keep showing you the same polish and footage over and over again I'll come up here with some scotch brite and will brighten all this up right here as well and it will polish the shaft up make everything look good all these pipe marks on here will stone them make sure there's no high spots on there I finished it at 9:37 and two-tenths that's on the high side of this tolerance right there come back here and check the backside and it's exactly the same journalist finished now it's just on the finish polishing the rest of the shaft there I'm real happy with the way it turned out though it looks great you see right in here where the keyway is and the powder didn't stick down in here because I had the masking in there but you can see how it kind of builds an edge up around it so I'm gonna use this carbide burr right there and very easily come in there and just touch the edge of that key way and kind of cut it back and then put just a slight amount of bevel right on the edge good give the the seal Journal nice polish in this area you can see when you hit it with the paper you see right where the the oil seal was running right there in that groove and this is a common repair for the spray welding instead of the bearings roll assist the seal journal now this right here and you can't fill it with your fingernail so it's not very deep if it is it's just very very my new but you can usually just take your paper and especially just cut a little thin strip out of this so we'll just narrow this into something like that and you can come in there where those grooves are a lot of that what you're seeing is actually a little bit of corrosion back behind the seal which you can hit it like this and just kind of polish that that groove out of there just like so and the good thing about an oil seal is that you know it expands so if you're off a little bit on this even a couple thousandths or more it's really not going to hurt your your oil seal on your diameter so just come in there like that and just just give it a couple hits with some thin paper and just blend that little mark right on out of there coming here with your wider piece and you got a nice polished up sealer on right there and I I removed very very little metal off that shaft right there I'm going to use these precision ground stones here to make sure that those pipe wrench marks aren't sticking up [Music] he was like they did a pretty good job of filing them off there you got that one spot right there it looks like maybe a set screw is dogged down on there and I can feel it when I rub the stone across it catches it so there's a little high spot in there and I can certainly see it now and I'm rubbing it it really polishes the high spot over and it looks like it's right where it needs to be now now when the stone slides across it doesn't catch it there was one more right there I think we are good it's ready to go out of the machine now and what I'll do is I was come back and collect the brass I'm just gonna loosen it up slide them out like that to get the torque off of it and snatch it hold it up with my hand here come in there cradle just like that going out well guys this job is completed and it's finished up only thing left to do is I'm gonna coat it down with some rust inhibitor and then get it strapped back to the pallet that it was shipped on and get it down to the shipper and get it get it headed back to the customer there so I know a lot of you guys watching the the channel really liked this procedure and seeing the videos on the spra welding and I enjoy it too that's one of the reasons why I do it is because it is something that is a lot less common these days and it's really more of a specialized process that you don't see very much of you know out there in the industrial world in these different you know big plants and places like that they use processes like this it's just not something that's very common that you would see you know in the everyday world or especially on YouTube so I really do enjoy sharing that process with you and you know and I joined doing it too I get a lot of people that when I share the pictures on Instagram or even the video here you'll get if you read through you'll see comments you know God Stan why not just leave it you know it'd be faster if you just leave it and I wanted to point on that for just a second as well this process was developed by eutectic I mean long time ago you know decades back and it's a proven it's a tried-and-true process when it's applied correctly whenever it's done correctly if you do not do it correctly then you will have problems with the you know the buildup not one the whole like it should but if you if you go through the procedure like eutectic tells you to I have never had one of these spray welds fail as far as I know I've never had a customer come back and say one of these have failed we need you to fix it or it's caused damage because of a failure things like that I have heard of that happening and that's why some people want to stay away from it because they had a failure and I think it's because it wasn't applied correctly or used in the in the correct form okay you have a wide range of powders for different applications this one that I spray right here is perfect for a bearing or seal journal if it's in a captured State so if you is to say you had a good example as a needle bearing if you have a needle bearing that's rolling across the journal you cannot use this type of powder for that you're gonna have to use a different type of system but if you got a bearing like a ball bearing you know with the inner race that's going to be shrunk down and held on that that's what this particular powder is used for there's other ones that are harder and there's other processes that you can use if you need to build up a surface that's going to be used as an actual bearing race but whenever you have this system set up you know I'm not set up to do it every single day so I move everything down the lathe but if you if you have all this set up ready to go in your shop you can do these repairs right here on a on a fit a journal like this in half the time that's going to take you to turn it down find a piece of material go to another lathe if you have another late machine the sleeve and then shrink it on there and then turn that down that's one of the reasons why I like using the spray welding process is because it is a time saver and that's why they developed it to help save expensive parts like this you know this is just one example but to help save expensive hard to replace parts and also the downtime so you can get these done in a less amount of time than it would be traditionally to put a sleeve on there or a lot of guys say well I just welded up the problem with welding is that you create so much heat in this parse that you make it warp you draw it so it's not going to stay straight this is considered a cold process so it doesn't reach the temperatures that's going to cause this thing to warp or draw one way it's going to stay completely straight you're not going to harm anything on these all right so I enjoy doing it I enjoy sharing it here on my channel and I think my viewers enjoy seeing it as well and I'm going to continue to show this whenever I get some good projects in here and I wanted to go ahead and touch on what this specific job was for because I've had a lot of times you know throughout my videos people wondering what does it go to you know well I'm not out there in the field so I can't see these things go back into service but my customer gave me a little bit of info and I didn't ask him if I could mention who it was so I'm not going to mention who the customer is but this goes to a positive-displacement blower and it's used to move gas with fumes from a burning process at a chemical plant alright so that's what this goes in it's part of the drive system for a big blower and this customer that that is doing the repair on this he gave me a little info about what they do out in the field he says that they build pneumatic conveyor systems and they also fabricate entire blower assemblies for these for these different plants and they build sound enclosures enclosures to go around them as well and of course they also repair pumps and blowers like this right here and they're also a distributor for the tuthill brand blowers so that gives you a little idea right there hopefully I got a picture that I can share with you on screen to kind of give you an idea what it looks like and other than that I hope you guys enjoyed the video and come on back for some more hopefully I have some more of this good spray welding footage to share with you in the near future alright see you [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: undefined

Views: 2,850,427

Rating: 4.9132152 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, spray welding, metalizing, eutectic, rototec, welding, welding process, welding overlay, buildup, thermal spray, thermal spray welding, lathe, lathe work, monarch lathe, machine shop, job shop, micro 100, brazed on tool bit, 4 jaw chuck, indicating, dial indiactor, masking compound, blower shaft, pump shaft, shaft repair, bearing journal, bearing fit, micrometer, machinery repair, machines, machine tools, gas pump, positive displacment diffuser, positive displacement pump

Id: FLYdhfgF6Pg

Length: 51min 5sec (3065 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 11 2020