Machining a Dake Arbor Press Handwheel

[Music] all right so we got us an easy little project to work on the day in the shop and in case you missed it I recently put out a video on a new take Arbor press that I bought and in that video I showed where the original hand wheel that came with the press could not be found whenever it was purchased so it was missing whenever I got it so I've got one here to replace the original hand wheel and this is uh this is a gift from my friend Erin dirt uh always sunny in the shop on YouTube and he and I worked out a little trade he's got a component that he needs machines for his Lyle drill grinder and I've that's what I use a wild drill grinder so I'm gonna machine him the component that's missing on on his grinder and then he he picked up this hand will and the corresponding a rotating handle there it goes into it and sent it to me as soon as I showed that video he contacted me and offered up a trade so that's what we're doing so I've got the hand wheel here this is a very nice-looking casting and the the OD of the hand will this radius has been machined this has been faced off and Center drilled there and of course we got our little little boss there to where we can take this handle all right so we got a nice little chrome handle that will be threaded into this hand wheel here I don't know what side that looks like it's probably going to be a 3/8 16 so we'll drill and tap it and screw that into there pretty simple well we'll check it out and do our drilling boring the size and then what we're going to do is we'll put a set screw through this and the set screw is what we'll dog it off to the shaft on the on the press there and then I'm gonna on the shaft on the press there's nothing for the set screw to bite to there's not a keyway or anything like that so my plan is to punch mark where the Setzer is going to be then I'll use the hand drill just put a small dimple for the set screw to go into and I'll probably use this set screw right here which is 3/8 16 set screw it'll go through like so we'll dimple the shaft and that's what will hold it to the shaft probably so I'll show you the the press to kind of freshen you up on what's going on there and then we'll go to lathes and start getting this machine work done so this is the shaft right here where the hand wheel is going to go on and it measures one in 7/16 I believe yep - one in 7/16 so a little rusty from sitting outside I'm gonna take some memory cloth and give this thing a really nice polish get it down the nice clean metal and then I'll use a micrometer to get accurate measurement on it and we'll bore it's a 1 2 mm over where it'll slip on there and it looks like the original hand will did have a set screw wouldn't whatever it was on there it was taken off and it was lost but I can see a little divot right there where a set screw looks like it kind of bit into it so I'm gonna drill it dimple in there but it's there's not much pressure that it takes to move this Ram I'm using these pliers here and you can just rotate it up and down and the purpose of this hand wheel is just to simply position the the RAM right here up or down in any position that you want or once you get through pressing then you use the hand wheel to bring the RAM up out of the way of the workpiece yep so that's it by the way I had a bunch of guys ask about these guys what I was using so these are my pecs smooth jaw wrenches I believe they're called and they're adjustable so do you have a nice range there of size that you can use and I thought it worked out pretty good for for moving moving this guy right there and I've got a few of them of you or me actually give me the set of these I apologize I can't remember who it was but a viewer sent me these and it was a set of three so I've got three different sizes this being the big boy so I think what I want to do to start with is I actually want to hold it right here to do our boring but we're going to use the three jaw Chuck right here and skinned this area right here this boss down so that it's true with this so that when I flip it around and hold it that way that the OD is running nice and true it's not necessary but it's what I want to do so I already had this set up for another project that I was working on so it was just handy to have already the jaws flipped around and it looks like it lines up like dead in the center of the wheel here so I don't want to go crazy on you know machining with that holding it but I think this is gonna work just fine for skinning this right there so let's see now you can see just there how much is running out it's not too bad but it's definitely it's casted there so it's not uh not running true alright so let's get that turn so there's the insert that I'm gonna use for this little bit of turning and so that is a kin of metal I can't remember the grade so here's the pact that's a CN mg 432 M R that's a chip breaker and the grade is a KCK 15 B and these I have marked for cast-iron I've used these for cast-iron and they work really good for cast and ductile iron okay make sure I'm gonna bill get up in here good it's gonna work just fine we'll get right up in there right about where that radius starts on the spokes and I'll stop stop cutting it right there not about there at that hard crust there you're the other way we didn't quite clean it up let me get my calipers I want to see where we're at yeah I think we might be able to get it down two and a quarter maybe just a little under there I think fifteen clean up we'll try it No a little bit more that cleaned it up there you can still see a little bit of shiny that was right on the outer crust there but it's actually turned true so we're just gonna leave it right there and we'll go ahead and put us a nice little chamfer on there as well all right we're gonna switch leis and head over to the monarch and then we'll use our six jaw check up on that new machine boss there all right let's go ahead and get this chucked up see houses running and that looks great no indicate needed right there we'll find us a drill bit put us a pilot hole down through there and then we'll board the size it's just way all by the way and these 33 a boiler work great for applying that right where you want it just opening up that center hole and allowing the the center drill to just kind of true it up put a brand new grind on this half-inch drill we'll use this to put a pilot hole down the center of it and then we'll open it up [Music] [Music] let's get us a drill bit I'm thinking I might use one of these core drills if I have if I have the right size there's a we go like inch and a quarter inch in 5/16 one and three-eighths would actually put a little bit too close to comfort for me let me see hey that's the one that we used on that last job I don't remember what we did we would ground that and used it it looks like about inch and a quarter right there [Music] there's a one in 5/16 right here Clee Forge that looks good yeah that's a good grind on it right there I think we'll use that will check the shank make sure ain't no dings on the taper shank there and we'll use this to make our hole so what I want to do is take one of our precision ground bent stones here these are completely ground flat and then take the let's make sure it changes you know grease or anything on it oil just take it and and I can feel it I can actually feel that stone hitting the high spots the little dings and you can see like right there there's a high spot there's a few little high spots where this thing's got dinged up [Music] so I'll just keep rubbing this precision stone over it till the high spot blends in with the metal around it all right I feel pretty good about that okay let's go drill our hole our core drill did a pretty good job drilling that hole with no fuss no chatter I was just seeing what we ended up at so a little bit over one in five we did good there so it was what about ten eleven twelve thirteen thousand so Versailles all right so now we'll get a boring bar set up in Bordeaux sauce I'm going to be using a one inch boring bar this is one of my good high-quality bars it's very hard and rigid and I'm gonna use this carbide tool right here this is one that I found that fits in the hole good so doing cast like this these braised on carbide tool bits work excellent for that and you you can be sharpen them you know in case they chip or they get dull [Music] so zero will take 50 thousands on this first pass here all right now that we got a clean bore in there we'll check this let's go over there to the press and clean the shaft off that this is gonna fit it's like 4:31 is what I'm getting there 431 431 okay so we'll just bore our will to 4th one inch 432 should be right around 1.4 80 see where we're at and we'll go from there it's exactly 380 so we got 50 mm to come out of there to bring it to sucks I was a twenty five thousand to cut there so should me leave me with about twenty seven to come out for the final final cut measure two times just to make sure I'm getting the right measurement here it's like 405 405 okay that does leave us with 27 that says 30 27 thousands I checked my size I'm right where I want to be one day it's 4:30 - so benefit of using a bar like this where you can put in square tool bits is that you can easily go in there and hit the chamfers without having to swap out tools so I've got this piece of high speed that's been ground for a chamfer in the two corners so we'll put that in there and we'll do our chamfer let me show you how I do the backside there what I like doing is just stopping the machine and just running the tool bit through there and then visually lining it up like I'm doing there you can make sure you can see it I can see the tool bit in there and I bring it in to the corner where I want to cut it make sure everything is clear need to cut her in to cut the chamfer now make sure that I'm clear and run it back out all right so our lathe work is done corners look good so we'll take it out of there and we'll go over there and we'll test fit it and I'm gonna come back over here to the lathe and give this a good wipe down and get rid of all the cast iron dust off of it so there's our there's our board and we'll let's check our fit looks like we got a good fit right there all right 1000 tap-in for our handle that goes there and then we'll set up and we'll drill and tap for our set screw that's gonna hold it to the shaft so our handle that's going to screw in there I check that that's 3/8 16 so we'll drill it with a 5/16 drill bit and then we'll tap it with this 3 3 a 16 gun tap right there now I'm gonna use my pointer this is actually it's a sinner it's a ground center I'm gonna use that to measure the center of this little balls area right here it's a hat I'm sorry looks like it's casted as a one-inch diameter boss there so I'm gonna go 1/2 inch that's 7/16 right there see put a little a little dot just to kind of Mark that spot right there I think that's gonna work good I set it in a little bit further there because of the radius machined on it I think that would be a good spot right where it's at no need the center drill it or anything these little reducing or reduce link drills with the split point do a good job of self centering [Music] all right good or or good three eight sixteen tap I'm just gonna power tap it he's running in my low low speed all right well that should be should be good for that check it looks like it's gonna work good there we go perfect okay we've got the angle plate set up here I'm just gonna use a tea nut and I stood the t-nuts it's in the in the slot in the back I've got a heavy washer right here that we'll use on the front and our flange nut get this thing kind of centered where we want then we'll tighten it up so I think what I'll do is just line up the tap told we did for the handle just kind of straight up and down I'm just going to visually look at it straight up and down and I think that'll work right there okay so we're set up ready to drill in tap for our set screw so this is one of those cases where what you have to use is called a pulley tap now you don't have to use a pulley tap you can actually use a regular tap and they make tap extensions that you can use but a pulley tap is designed to bill to get up and an application such as this where you're next to the feature of the of the workpiece so here's a pulley tap this is a 3/8 16 pulley tap so of course you got to be able to get in there and drill the hole too so sometimes you've got to have a long drill bit to get in there which we have so we'll Center up and draw our hole and then we'll use this pulley tap to be able to reach in there and tap our hole we'll just hand tap it so I want to find the center of this and I won't be able to get my drill chuck down all the way against this to use an edge finder to to find the edge so what I'm going to do I've got this piece of tool still this is a piece of 3/8 high speed steel that's ground and I'm gonna I'm gonna use it we're gonna chuck it up and we're gonna run run up here close to the edge I'm gonna make sure at the back so I'm cleared on the back the Chuck is not going to hit the hand wheel there I don't want to be able to come up and I'm gonna use this to find the find the edge so I need a piece of paper and I'll be right back so I'm going to use this in my digital readout I'm gonna use the 1/2 feature so we're going to locate this side then we're gonna come over here and locate this side and I'm gonna split the difference and go down to the middle so what I want to do is I'm just trying to get in there around the camera there some put that paper in there and then once it grabs it and walks it out we're on the edge I can tell it's touching it right there you can see that little white mark all right so that's the edge right there zero out the digital readout come to the other side and we'll do the same thing make sure I don't hit the Chuck there I'm gonna run this up until it touches the paper all right I can feel it it's touching right there so that's our that's our distance right there so we're gonna go 1/2 X and then that will bring us to the center so we'll just move it down until we get to 0 and then we'll be in the middle I was trying to get right in the center of the boss but none of my drill trucks will let me get down there with a center drill to spot it so I've got it moved off eighth of an inch off of Center which is still going to be fine so we've got our Albright Chuck there with our little sinner drill and we're going to go ahead and we're going to go ahead and drill it Center drill it anyway we got our Center drilled so we got a spot there for the drill to start so we're going to take that out and I've got a long 5/16 drill bit that we'll put up in the spindle and use this to drill our tap hole got our drill mounted in the collet okay now I've got to move it off-center to get the get the drill back out of the collet there all right we've got our spring centered we're going to use putting that up into a half-inch call it we got our tap and our wonderful tap wrench but the spring center and the end of the tap and you see now we've got plenty of room to be able to tap that hole using this guy right there pressure on the screen center there I feel it we've already gone all the way through all right time to go put it on the machine see if it works okay so what I'm gonna do is just use a I want to use a transfer punch to make it a little divot there a punch mark of where I want it I just want to bring it off the casting just to touch alright I'll hit that punch mark there with a with a center points to make it a little bit bigger and then we'll spot it with a drill bit bring it down there to where I can go straight in with it I think oh if this is gonna fit not really I can just take this off this is what was getting in the way [Music] it's like it's gonna be lining up perfect right there there's the setscrew lining up with the divot all right we got it a little snug there we go perfect all right we got a functioning hand wheel on here now do this rapid reverse of the RAM up or down that's perfect so you do your put your workpiece in here bring it on down there close to where you want it and you start doing your the table locked in down there start doing our pressing and then when you get pressing done then you just bring it back up out of the way that definitely locks it good right there all right well I'm real happy with the way this thing turned out it looks good it looks like it belongs on there and all of our machining worked out good too nice and easy job so I'm glad that this one is this one is done and the only thing left to do now is just paint it that's what I'm gonna do and you guys all know how to paint something I'm just gonna buy a can of spray paint something that I can closely match this color here the day color just take it outside and spray paint it get some so keep it from rusting so anyway there we go hope you guys enjoyed watching that project so onto the next [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 409,651

Keywords: abom79, dake, dake press, dake arbor press, arbor press, shop press, monarch, monarch lathe, machine shop, lathe, lathe work, manual lathe, manual machining, manual machinist, core drill, 3 flute drill, milling machine pulley tap, gun tap, spring loaded center, indicator, noga, starrett, starret dial indicator

Id: prgN2eFWwFc

Length: 34min 53sec (2093 seconds)

Published: Sat May 18 2019