Kubota Hydraulic Cylinders Part 2: Machining New Rods & Welding the Rod Eyes

[Music] all right guys it's the next day after we tore down the kubota cylinders and i've got all the parts now they all just showed up here a little while ago i ordered everything from crc over in robertsdale alabama crc they're a great company to deal with you can find them on instagram as well under crc distribution they have uh they always like to stay active with a lot of their customers and uh you know and everybody on instagram showing the the materials that they cut and they ship out so a good company to deal with not only for hydraulic parts i mean they'll have pretty much any kind of hydraulic part you want whether it be a soft part or raw materials there the for years like dad and i used them a lot for years whenever we needed material in a hurry because they're really close to us they're less than an hour drive from here and uh sometimes we'd be in a pinch and we really needed a piece of material to get a job done well we would use something that they would say over there whether it be you know a piece of tubing or a piece of rod stock like this right here or even a piece of ductile iron or aluminum you know they they stock all of your materials that you would need to manufacture hydraulic components there but we use them oftentimes for other things that we needed that wasn't necessarily a hydraulic cylinder so something to keep in mind there a good company to deal with over there at crc so keep them in mind if you need some materials for your hydraulics or maybe even some materials for your jobs so saying that we're going to get started on machining the two hydraulic rods over here remember we got two that need to be replaced so this is the bar stock that i ordered right here this is 10 45 steel chrome plated inch and a quarter diameter all right and then we've got all of our all of our seals all the soft parts right here this is the wiper that's the rod seal there and we've got we've got piston seals right here we've got o-rings and backups there as well i really like how they uh i like how they label these you know put them in these bags here and they have the part number there and then the description as well that's really nice they just you know really nice professional job is what i'm getting at so i went ahead and i wanted i wanted to be sure that i got the right parts there so i went ahead and installed one of the rod seals and one of the wipers and of course the o-rings there as well so they are right by the way the the seals and the wipers are the same for both glands there it's just this the od of this gland is larger than that one there so you got different size o-rings on it so there we go we're going to go ahead and start machining the rods now i decided i want to use my metal devil saw to cut these rod eyes off here it should work pretty good less chance of tearing up a bandsaw blade you know cutting through this these this is a carbide tip blade right here and i've had this one on here for quite a while so it's been through a lot of cuts and if it ends up messing the teeth up no big deal because it needs to be swapped out anyway but it still cuts good so we're going to use that by the way i want to point out you know i've got the rod links written down on these eyes right here this particular rod eye the rod from the end to this flat here is 23 and a half this rod right here with the narrow eye is 23 inches so there's half inch difference so wrote it on both the eyes i also took a picture of this so that i could reference it through a picture on my phone and i wrote it down on the pad just things like that that's really easy to forget to do before you go and you start taking things apart and cutting things apart and all of a sudden you realize you don't remember which one goes with which and how long things were i'm only saying that from experience over the years of working in the hydraulic shop you do forget things sometimes and you just forget things so i'm just trying to help you guys out let's go ahead and see how this thing does i put my ear and protection in because this stuff hurts my ears if i don't use it [Music] oh caught it that last little bit not as it was coming off it just touched the blade there but that's it right there we'll be able to take this guy and set it up in the mill and go ahead and dress that off and then be able to drill and tap it that way we'll put a little threaded stud in there [Music] [Music] [Music] uh i'm going to start the machining on these two rods so one end is going to have a 3 8 diameter pilot machined on the end just a little stub that's going to line up with the right eye and then we'll flip it around and turn the other end just a simple turn three quarter diameter shank with three quarter threads [Applause] i just get down there kind of close to where i know i got a little bit left to turn off i do see we wanted a quarter inch so i'm just making uh four passes 16th depth to bring them into the quarter inch depth that i want we set a zero here and then once we get this one we'll just turn it [Music] [Applause] with a pin diameter of 380 thousandths right here and that'll give me about one and one and a half thousandths interference right around 380 on the calipers this isn't very critical that's why i'm using calipers here so that looks good enough all right now we also want to machine a bevel right here that we're going to fill up with weld once we press this together and run our weld bead this most likely is not i'm not going to be able to machine this whole thing at once because of the rigidity of the machine it's going to try to chatter so if if that's the case i'll just stop and uh move the compound and actually use the compound to do the cutting there but after i do the threading on the other end that's what i'm talking about so that's not bad there but i want to bring it down closer so i'll finish out these uh well preps at the end of the job there that way i don't have to i keep my compound set where i want it including the tool post nice and square for all my threading ons now when you're moving these uh chrome rods chrome plated rods in and out of these chucks um that chrome is pretty durable but you can scratch it if you're not careful because these are hardened jaws main thing is you just want to be real gentle with it and don't bang it around and don't put any pressure on it i usually try to put my hand there to kind of relieve some of the weight of the rod as i slide it out but look there i don't see any scratches or anything on that you can use a good tape measure to measure the lengths of these things it's going to be plenty accurate enough for what these things are and so i just use a good tape measure good meaning it's in good condition it's not tore up and been dropped from the roof a bunch of times so i always cut them eighth inch long and using the tape measure right there tells me just using a tape measure measurement that i've got a 16 to face off that in right there to bring this to the 23 and a half inch mark that i want so once we chuck it up i'll just face the 16th off the end and it's going to be within 10 15 thousandths of an actual measurement if you was to measure it with say like a you know pair of calipers or something i've got the luxury of using a six-jaw chuck here in my shop this is work that i always did in a four-jaw chuck because the the normal standard three-jaw chucks you just can't seem to get enough gripping power with this slippery chrome rod i just tried it too many times and know from experience that if you try to if you try to make a heavy cut on chrome-plated material in a three-jaw self-centering chuck the material the rod is going to be pushing back as you're turning it so i always use the four jaw chuck because i could get plenty of pressure on the on the rod there to hold it and never had a problem after that smooth jaw chuck jaws should i say not the uh not the real heavy deep serrated jaws that bite into the material most of your factory four jaws that come on these lays have a smooth jaw so it doesn't bite in and and mar up the material there but the six jaw should provide plenty of holding power to turn this without pushing that rod back into it one of these days i might get that dro installed on this lathe i don't have to focus so much on this style indicator over here but just using my hook scale here hook the very tip of the tool keeping the the scale nice and square to the work i come down i want it two and one eight so i know that i'm on the tip of that tool and i'm looking down here and lining up the eighth mark right on the end of that rod and it is right there we'll set a zero that'll be our stop point right there make a little uh witness line just like that take an eighth inch of pass 10 000 speed rate that's a good that's a good cut right there you're moving some metal and you'll get it turned out pretty fast like that right there [Applause] [Applause] this last two cuts i always split it whatever it is this case it was right around 95 thousands so i take 50 thousandths and then i'm going to take a measurement with my micrometer and whatever i want to finish that's what i'm going to take right here all right so i actually want exactly on exactly 50 thousandths on this cut this will be my finish it should leave me right around point seven four eight to point seven four seven so five thousand cleanup pass on the face here getting the chips off the rod there do a measurement with the mic i'm exactly 747 and a half right there nice it's right where we want it so now we got to do is chamfer it we'll have to put a chamfer here for our seals so that you can get the wiper up on there and then we'll uh do our threading i'm going to use this uh this is the mc mck and our tool i'm using the cmg insert using the 100 degree side of the insert and i'm going to use this to machine the uh chamfer or bevel on here that that you need so that the rod wiper and the seal easily slides up on that rod usually you can come in there you can kind of get in there quick and pull out it won't chatter on you my lady tries to chatter so we're about there but i need a little bit more than that so i'm just going to slow it down [Music] that's not bad right there it's about 3 16. so that's all you need right there for your seals to slide over but you got to make sure that you break the sharp edge there and then polish this in so it's nice and smooth break that corner just get rid of that sharp edge there using the tongue alloy tetra mini cut for the threading and we have a three-quarter stop point right there so again just using the good old trusty scale line up the tip on three-quarter and i'm gonna set a zero right there and then all we do is just come in here just make me a little witness mark like that but i'll i'll do you one even better let me show you take a marker just paints you a line right there this is not a real critical thing this is a witness mark is all it is all right so that's a visual mark when i'm threading that's when i back out cutting a 16 pitch so we want c d and one we're in let's do a scratch pass just like that always verify it so we're going to use our pitch gauge here to make sure that we're on 16 and we are we're good you're ready to thread cutting a 16 pitch on this lathe means i can engage this half nut anywhere i want i don't have to look at it [Music] this right here is going to get us really close to the depth i'm not going to be worried about i'm not going to go under the pitch diameter that it needs to be but i've got all of the nuts that are used on this rod cleaned and we're just going to use that to make sure it screws on so i i come to a shallow depth you know where i know i'm not the full depth and then take a few passes very light passes until we know the nut screws on there good you just don't want it too loose see that right there it's not loose either that is a that is a close fit on those threads right there which is what you want with the hydraulic parts there so we went in a total of 47 thousandths on the compound so i'll write that down right here just so i know on the next the next one as we're feeding in i'll know to come up close to you know 45 thousandths and then start checking the the nut just like we did there all right there we go that one's done other than uh finishing out the weld bevel on the other side we'll do that after we turn and thread the second rod had that thing tighter than i thought [Music] so all right we've got both of the rods machined i've got them both marked a and b so i know which one which rod eye goes with which rod because we were a half inch difference on there but there's the uh there's the finished machine prep there what we're going to do is that we're going to go to the dake press and i'll actually want to press those together using that there's another shot at the throttle that's rotted threaded rod end right there okay i'm going to be using the dake press this is the hydraulic deck press that i have i'm gonna use it because i just have a little bit better control over the pressure that i'm applying right here so i've got the press plate with a three quarter hole drilled in it that'll allow us to take this rod and just set it right down in this hole all right everything should be nice and square it's sitting flat and then we should have just enough room i got the ram all the way up so i've verified it too a and a i measured it this was supposed to be on the 23 inch rod so i there's been plenty of times where i've made mistakes and did not do this kind of stuff and found out that i did you know i put the wrong length rod with a with a different eye you know things like that so i'm just trying to help some of you other guys that's watching this things to be aware of whenever you are doing something similar to this right here i'm just going to try to get it square all right so i touched it up in the lathe so that i can get it started like that so there's not very not very far to press it now it should everything is right at the max here all right that should that should press there we go there it is nice and square nice and tight so that'll keep the rod in place whenever we go to weld it on there all right we'll set up the second one and get it done okay we're getting the rod set up getting ready to start welding i am going to be using the ac precision welding positioner to rotate these whenever i'm welding it i'm also going to be using the old school miller 330 abp i'm going to be doing stick welding on this i'm going to be running some 332nd 7018 rods we should be ready to go i got everything kind of set up in position we got a foot pedal down there oh and i wanted to show you this too i'm using the weld aid weld clean 350 this is annie spouter so i have sprayed this on the rod eye down in the hole and of course on the chrome there as well and you see we're using the cardboard tube that it came in this will help protect the the rod you know from this area on back from any kind of weld spatter that gets on there do [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] do [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 141,731

Keywords: hydraulics, hydraulic cylinder, Kubota, Kubota hydraulic cylinder, tractor, tractor cylinder, hydraulic repair, hydraulic seals, CRC, Hydraulic tear-down, hydraulic service, spanner wrench, hydraulic gland, rod seal, wiper, piston seal, welding, stick welding, 7018, welding positioner, AC Precision, single point threading, Tungaloy

Id: Un5xBYygn70

Length: 30min 40sec (1840 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 15 2021