Engine Blows Up on Startup! Chrysler 2.4 2010 PT Cruiser

hello everybody good day to you welcome back we return in this video to the 2010 Chrysler PT Cruiser the 2.4 liter naturally aspirated non-turbocharged four-cylinder the thing came in on a tow truck we had found out in the previous video that the timing belt stripped off at the teeth at the crankshaft down at the bottom of the engine uh it probably happened on Startup um in that original video I had speculated that the uh the valves at least at least one set of valves and one of these cylinders had been bent from contact with the Piston because this is in fact an interference engine what that means is that if the valve train and the Pistons are not in time there's a chance that the Piston can come up and hit the valves that are still open and cause that valve to bend thus uh rendering the engine damaged and inoperable however that was just speculation in this video what we're going to do is pull this apart some so I can gain some access to the other two spark plug holes and we're gonna pull them valve cover off we're gonna pull the timing belt off and I'm going to pump smoke into each one of the cylinders individually as the valves are closed and we're going to observe to see if there's any leakage going on if the valves are closed and we have a leak then we can uh we can hypothesize with great accuracy that this thing in fact does have some Benton valves and uh the cylinder head will have to come off uh if it does not have bent valves then we may get off easy and I can just put a timing belt and a water pump kit in it and it should run as designed however we don't know until we know and that's what today's video is going to be about we're going to find out so there's going to be some disassembly there's going to be some diagnosing there's going to be some inspecting and hopefully we can come to a conclusion that this engine is savable because if the engine's not savable then the replacement cost of a used engine is going to exceed by far the value of the vehicle thus rendering it uh while a junkyard candidate and it's really not in horrible shape so we kind of don't want to do that so we're going to test it first and then condemn it later if necessary so stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video opening Z Hood thank you [Music] so first things first we're going to need to get a lot of things on this particular vehicle disassembled we have to pull the intake manifold off and we have to do that because I can't get access to the two spark plug holes so let's get this connector disconnected here it's going to come out and it's not wanting to it's a bad start can't even get the connector off the intake or the tube off the throttle body um come on you let's not do this I let's make this nice and easy light there there's that connector we have this connector that I was just tinkering with there we go now it's going to come out I believe this is the manifold pressure sensor here I think or math sensor you're pushing down on the tab but it's not one enough come off of there yeah not to a good start not at all I'm off there and push it in and then depress it then push it out okay we've got the idle air control connector over here on the back side let's get that guy disconnected walk it off we have a vacuum line right here for the EVAP system let's pop that guy off leave that alone a couple wires on the back of the intake the wire loom has disintegrated due to its uh plastic nature but the little bracket clip things are still there see that one yeah those are still present so I'm going to leave those on The Wire we'll add replacement convolute to uh this particular wire at a later time check so the intake's disconnected around here on the back we're gonna find one bracket that's this guy right here and a 13 mil bolt let me grab a ratcheting wrench and we can take that bolt out then we can come back up to the top pull all these eight mil bolts out and then the top of this intake should complete and we're going to see if I can't squeeze this tool in and I can't nope need a wrench all right going back in with a flex head ratcheting wrench that should make light work of that bracket Bolt she's going to come right out good spent more time hunting down the tools to try to make this come out faster and how long it took to just reach in there and do it the addiction to power tools now this intake's getting a little loose let's go up here to the front and we'll Buzz out these front bolts here here here here here and here and then the syntax will come off I think there's just five I think pull them out fine [Applause] last one okay the upper intake is loosey-goosey with the exception of some more wires that are holding us up right over there let's see what the deal is with that what do we have let's see there's some wires nothing's connected they're just uh pushed in with little uh little retainer Clips here let me unclip this it's always one more thing pop that out without breaking it and we have some vacuum lines over here on the back looks like a uh there's an evap hose right there let's pull that guy off and then we've got the brake booster hose right here that's the big one running over to supply vacuum to the brake booster just get behind that little guy right there and walk it back there we go now intake manifold is free set you down right over here now we need two probably take the bracket loose for this power steering reservoir and then we'll pull this valve cover off okay going in for the back of that bracket got a 13. see if I can't find those two bolts I believe there's two back there can't see them I can feel one of them Here Comes there's one of them and the other is right next to it I can feel it can't see it [Music] again that's for the power steering reservoir okay that'll give us the space to get to the bolt in the top of this valve cover what we need to do is get this cover off is uh I'm gonna loosen the cams to ensure that uh that the valves are closed I'll just unbolt them and kind of let the valve spring pressure push the cams in an upward Direction and so in turn the valves will close let's disconnect our coil and then we've got four bolts for uh this ignition coil here and then we've got the perimeter bolts around via valve cover itself so let us disconnect this coil I could probably get away with leaving it here but I'm Gonna Take It Off because if this thing is savable all this has to get cleaned off cut it up pretty nasty from looks to be a valve cover gasket leak oh no I did have to come off look there's a bolt hiding behind it you got me okay eight mil bolts are coming in next there's uh six or eight of them actually they're coming out they're not going in taking these out are you at five six seven now that one back there eight oh I counted wrong that's seven yeah it's only seven there's only seven bolts throwing me nope nope kind of wrong again look there's one nine bolts okay let's get down under this gas this uh not casket this valve cover and pry it upwards and away from the head there we go [Music] trim tool action and release come on you here she comes oh it's kind of sludgy in there it's uh that's very sludgy in there there's our gasket that's junk okay so this Reservoir is starting to get into the way I've shrug out the European oil change vessel and we're gonna vacuum all this fluid out of here I need to take either this hose off or that hose because this thing is just it's way in the way I need to move it just stick it down there somewhere this hose right here is also in the way that needs to get shoved over here somewhere so so it's probably best that I pull all the fluid out here because if I don't once I take that loose it's going to dump the power steering oil everywhere and that would not be okay it's not what I'm trying to do here I know that compressor is a little loud I'll shut it down in a moment as soon as we get this thing taken care of pull our little plant back here you know trying again yes there we go and try to break that hose loose ah spilled fluid hang on there now we can just suction out that whole line get rid of all the fluid and the bottom of the reservoir as well stuff that out okay so let's put that Reservoir down on top the exhaust leave that alone powering down the vacuum and now this hose is free and clear and we can just kind of stick this down in front of the intake manifold there we go okay so here's what we're looking at we've got an exhaust camshaft and we have an intake camshaft it's the intake manifold side that's the exhaust manifold side two valves two exhaust valves per cylinder two four six eight two intake valves per cylinder two four six and eight if I were to take these caps off these cams are going to rise up due to valve spring pressure down there around the valves once those rise up it's effectively going to close those valves at which point I can pump some smoke into the combustion Chambers and if we see any of it coming out of the intake we have a leak if we have a pressure drop and the gauge is showing flow that means we have a leak and the exhaust side look light's getting low so we know that no matter what the timing system on this engine has to come apart so what I'm going to do here is just go in there with a razor blade I'm going to cut this belt off I mean it's nearly falling off now but I'm going to go ahead and cut it that way it's out of the way and we're going to unbolt these cam sprockets and pull those off reason being is I don't want belt tension to make these cams turn at some weird goofy angle and prohibit them from relieving all the spring pressure so I need to grab that bolt that one and cut this off and we'll take these things apart and see if that gives us the space we need to unbolt these camshafts so let's get in there with the razor blade and just get this uh this belt out of our way here tough little bugger there we go I'm about halfway through here what does pry bar the belt normally I'd say never a pry bar a belt but this one's confirmed junk so it is of no matcher there we go fastest timing belt replacement job ever look at that okay now what I'm gonna do is utilizing these little holes right here I'm going to stick that punch in and I'm gonna put a wrench over that punch just so I can get leverage on it simultaneously my other wrench is going to go over here on the sprocket and we're going to break that thing loose that makes sense you'll see actually instead of a wrench I'll just stick a socket over top of that and then use the extension to hold it down then I can break that bolt loose with the wrench on the left see how that's working very nice reach in there take that guy out and we can see there's a this cam doesn't want to flip either direction like it's it's pretty neutral where it's where it sits right now however it does seem to have think these valves are open slightly so like I said we're just going to pull the cam out all together or at least get it loose loose enough where it's no longer contacting the valves and we'll go our sprocket out save that for later and then we repeat with the intake cam show stick that guy in we'll get our uh oh that might not work look there's an engine mount in the way um whale what else can I do here I don't really want to take that engine mount off just yet but I think I have to yeah we got two 15s and a 17. yeah I'm gonna have to pull that out is what it is see just when I think I got a good plan going on some Chrysler engine mount unclick comes along and messed me up look at that let's take these guys loose ratchet swap to the electron ratchet got him unclicked [Music] come out motor mouth got it now will it come out or is it stuck in there I have to take off a AC line or something oh look it's a broken motor mount see that right there that's busted in half oh my goodness look at that El junko well that's not going to do a good job of holding the engine in is it don't need that goodbye now we can get to that bolt there it is okay wrench coming in that's where we want that and over here on the right got our punch and I'm actually going to use the uh a wrench this time to hold this get some more leverage out of it see that so now unclick don't break it's breaking it broke okay well uh oh there it is yeah that broke let's chase it here I'm gonna back us up some and try a strap wrench on the pulley next that uh that might work if it grips it should work if it doesn't grip well then have to figure something else out come here belt we need to get you out of there come on there it is okay the belt's out from under the cam speed this guy in and get it to go through we'll be all right and it's through [Music] good good this might actually work okay strap wrench engaged right there and I think I put it on backwards yes I did I not okay okay it's on backwards redo redo again because I love my job so flip it's got to come in from the back side that's gonna barely work nope got it yeah that goes right through there make it tight come on Bolt I wonder if I can get in there with like a 90 degree impact or something oh come on there it goes it's turning all right oh good that was not as uh hard as I thought it was going to end up being I need to quit saying that about this car it might kick me in the butt later well we'll see we'll see done this job before it's not really Pleasant because there's no space but we play with the toys that we're giving [Music] that was deep come on fully become removed got it okay there's our pulley set that aside and I should be able to pull these cams without taking this whole front cover thing off but there are two 10 mils here and here I'm going to take those loose and squeezing Parts out getting as much space as possible it's probably the best practice and those are eight mils not ten all right here let's try again [Music] I got you there it is and the other one uh that one's not coming out because I can't get in there right now so let's go back up top and start to break these cams loose let's see how this goes those are tight okay let's go in here with a ratchet we'll break torque on all these Fasteners and then uh we can Buzz them out with the electric tool okay so it's tens and eights the fronts are ten the rears these ones over here those are ten unclick that one this one and then the rest of the Caps all appear to be eight enough it's amazing I have an eight millimeter three inch Drive deep well socket perfect again when I'm just cracking them loose so we can use the electric tool to spin them out they're very fine threaded and we're not wasting time with the exception of pulling these cam caps off because if this thing has bent valves that was weird look at that pressure of some sort came out of there it's like a like water almost that's not a good sign what is that anyway as I was saying before my GoPro died uh I'm not really wasting any time because if this thing does have bent valves I've got to pull these cams out anyway to pull the cylinder head off so this is a fairly inconsequential regardless of the outcome there we go Hills Robin let's get the main cap it's the front side let's get all these risk and removed first it's one solid piece see if this guy's gonna come out or if it's going to be stubborn here it comes it moved move some more you can move once what are you doing try to get under it right here we can't pry it up some oh the sealant there's silicone kind of holding this thing down that's what the deal is I'm backing them off just a little bit in case there is spring pressure that wants to push this cam up and it should be we're good now no more pressure thin these out all the way and I'll set them down on the bench so they have to stay in order and they have to maintain the proper orientation see that I set them down in the exact same order that they came out I'll repeat for uh this front side here I just felt the cam come up some and I missed that one oopsie well that's not good unclick yeah that one shot some stuff out too I'm good leftover oil pressure what's the deal there's another piece this piece extends all the way over to here okay let's break that thing loose here we go unbolt that third bolt on this end cap kind of weird I'm off please can I get under it nope is this cam sensor holding on to it maybe I don't know yeah let's go ahead and pull this cam position sensor off I'm pretty sure that's hanging on to it oversight I knew this air box was gonna have to come out I just knew it pull that off now I can pull the valve cover out all the way it was just kind of sitting up there against the cowl set that down that's nasty pull this thing back out for the second time what is this triangle shaped car that's what it is okay two eight mils okay or maybe I didn't have to pull that out I don't know I have no idea what I'm doing here let's get some side load on this camshaft cap on it some yep again the sealant had captured it that's what the deal is it's moving come out it's glued on with this silicone right here and I can't get under it got it there it is we're back on track let's pull the rest of these caps off in order just in case it goes back together we'll see maybe it does maybe it does not come here okay that's three last one got it okay now how about these cams should just pop right on up and out you get under it with some pry action there we go a little bit on the front it is loose and just Flex that front cover some and pull her up and out there's our intake cam that's down on the bench and let's see about that exhaust cam got it good to go okay that's our exhaust cam those are the Caps above it these are the intake cam caps and intake cam goes right here okay so now we find ourselves a position where all of the valves on this engine are closed let me pull one of these rockers out of here set that aside and we can see well there's our lifter that thing just kind of remains stationary here is our valve so we've got the spring the valve is in the center of it and you see the valve Keepers right there hugging the tip of the valve you see those two keepers there's one on the bottom and then another one on the top they're like a clam shell once they fit inside of the retainer they can't come apart there's grooves in the top of this valve and then there's corresponding grooves on those Keepers and once they're all lined up and in position and down inside of this retainer they're locked into place so they they cannot come out anyway all 16 valves on this engine are in a closed position because there's nothing up here pushing down on the Springs to open the valves so all of the combustion Chambers are sealed with the exception of the spark plugs I've got two more plugs to remove out of this engine number two and number three and then we can pump some smoke down in those holes and we're going to look for any kind of leakages okay next up let's dig out those remaining two spark plugs not much digging is necessary it came right out that one looks like the uh the other two next one okay that one looks good nothing crazy about that let's go ahead and set up our test rig so the way I'm going to do this I have here one of the adapters for the compression tester and I'm gonna go in and pull the Schrader valve out of it that way it's just a threaded tube see with that valve in there air could go in this direction but not that direction and we're going to be pumping in from this direction so we have to pull this valve out it just unscrews we'll set that aside now we can screw this guy into the holes and we will plummet full of smoke I'll do that with my Redline smoke machine I've already taken the liberty of dragging out when you guys aren't looking it hooks up to shop air air pumps through it it hooks up to a 12 volt supply of electrons that's going to be the car battery and we have a flow gauge yep see the gauge right there a little ball here I'll show you I turn the knob slow starts to occur once we turn it on smoke begins to be produced except it's not uh not giving me the green light here it's the deals is battery dead no it can't be what is problem Repository negatory and I don't have any lights on my machine um maybe that battery is dead weird no matter I have auxiliary electrons in storage it's a good battery despite what it looks like it's my test unit we'll just plug that thing in positive negative yep got the green light looks like that battery is just dead as a door now anyway powering on now we've got the red light we have air pressure and we have an adapter on the end of our hose that is producing smoke see that there it is so I just want to plug that guy in that's not gonna work no worries we adapt and compensate for the issues with our hose by increasing the hose stick that one on there and now we can put the Smoky end on the other side we should start to get some flow somewhere just give it a minute see what it does all right so I've got this thing turned up about as much as I can get to prove it we'll turn it off we'll turn it back on and we've got flow here and if we take a look I pulled the the towels out look down inside of this cylinder here we've got smoke coming out from the intake side on cylinder four let's blow that out and it's going to fill back up again see that so we have one of these two valves either this one or this one or both of them that one's leaking into the intake on cylinder four let's move the apparatus over to three two and then one and we'll check those first uh for leaks as well yeah that's unfortunate that we've got we've got a confirmed leak this early on but that's not a reason to stop the test because at this point we still have inconclusive information to shut the smoke machine down it's smoking me out okay apparatus transferred over to number three now there is kind of a flaw in this method smoke machines back on and the flaw is is I can't tell if there is an exhaust leak or not because we can't see the exhaust the only way I'd be able to do that is to disconnect the manifold back there uh disconnect the catalytic converter or just sit way out back at the tailpipe and hopefully kind of wait to see some smoke regardless we're pumping smoke into cylinder three and if we take a look at our gauge here we can see a similar Behavior at the ball it's not consistent but there is flow taking place see how we're going up and down and up and down but if I were to reach down say we pinch this hose off watch our flow flow is going to drop see that see now it's sealed if I let her go [Music] We Get That Bouncy flow thing going on so looks like we've got a leak somehow someway on number three and I'm waiting to see it out of the intake on this number three Runner which we do not I do not see it coming out of the intake but we can see it flowing in the gauge so that leads me to hypothesize that it is exiting the engine from the exhaust side so that one's uh that one's up for question question mark on number three we don't know we know for sure number four has an intake manifold or a intake valve leak we don't know about number two and number one yet so let us proceed hey you're getting the gist of it by now smoking it out power off pinch It Off blow it off [Music] switch this over to number two plug her back in and check the intake on number two regardless of uh if these others are leaking or not though the cylinder head would have to come off to have this repaired and if we're doing that we're doing one cylinder we're going to do all of them that's just how it's gonna how it's going to be okay going back to check our machine we've got flow red light on Smoke's going in flow has not been arrested meaning it's still going and I'm looking checking the intake runner nothing yet I'll give it a couple minutes alrighty it's been about five minutes and I'm still not seeing any smoke coming from the number two intake runner however we are getting this inconsistent uh bounce and flow see a little ball in there I do believe that the number two cylinder exhaust side also has leaking valves so let's switch her over get out of here smoke let's switch it over to the number one and check one more time and that'll give us data on all four cylinders here that guy in there we go plug that thing in you guys can't see because I'm holding the camera but I got her that's plugged in flow smoke look at that one that's it maximum flow see that that one pegged it's going and it's going it's going and I can't tell if we're getting it out of the intake side yet or not just hang out here for a minute we'll wait yeah we've got a boatload of flow on this one look at that maxed out okay a couple more minutes have gone by I still don't see anything coming out of the intake runner on number one we still have a boatload of flow um I just took a peek at the tailpipe and I don't see anything coming out of there but it also occurred to me that there's an O2 sensor right here so I think I'm gonna try to get this O2 to come out and if that thing starts choosing out a bunch of smoke then we know for sure that there are exhaust valve leaks don't know for sure if this is going to come out or not it's been there for a while but it might oh yeah it turned cool that's nice she's loose let me unplug her here yeah that wire out of the way get this thing out see what we've got going on in there still taking a peek over at the tool and at the gauge and it's still pegged at 30. so I'm going to expect to find some smoke coming out of this hole as soon as uh as soon as this O2 comes out show me the smokers please [Music] hey let's try to get in there a little bit closer and we can see smoke down inside of that exhaust manifold see that some more light on it maybe we're down in it there it is here she is let me put some light right into that hole you see now that'll work yep see it flowing around right there that's it that's confirmed so I've got at least two confirmed cylinders that are leaking everywhere two more suspected as we thought in the first video this thing has got some bent valves so the next step in this procedure is going to be to pull this cylinder head off and send it out for inspection make sure it's not permanently damaged and uh see if it can't be rebuilt so uh that being said I'm going to go ahead and use this opportunity right now to close this video out we're leaving off with a confirmed kill we have engine damage internal to the unit so it looks like the belt has destroyed an engine which may in turn destroy a car depending on price point but we'll cross that bridge in the next episode so again and as always thank you guys for watching this video certainly hope you enjoyed this video or if you found it moderately entertaining please feel free to let me know about that by tapping that like button down below drop me a comment or two while you're down there and most importantly do not forget to have yourselves a great day see you guys later in the PT Cruiser in a 2.4 cylinder end of cylinder head into valves in an engine end of smoke test in the video

Channel: Rainman Ray's Repairs

Views: 260,374

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Id: SIkpZBjieD0

Length: 39min 15sec (2355 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 29 2023