Lifting Car off of Lift | VIDEO Ruined!! Mint 1994-2004 Ford Mustang GT 4.6

happening Z Hood [Music] check that out triple digit day it is stupid hot today I'm gonna try to uh work on this uh I think it's a 2004 Ford Mustang GT I don't know the engine size yet I think it's a four sticks uh customer States steering is loose uh I think maybe it wanders while driving uh let's go ahead and uh put this up on the rack inside Take a Look Down Below see what uh what ails her deep within whoa look at that this particular Mustang has 47 357 miles on the odometer how about that it's a brand new car silly me I was way off look at that built in zero six of 98 this is a 1998 Ford Mustang GT with a four six and she's super clean too oh no oh no look at that the rear view mirror fell off it's not okay I should take this off I think hot oh hot hot hot hot hot The Amulet is hot hot yeah everything's hot I bet it's a I bet Ambi air inside of this car is about 140 degrees right now good thing we have air conditioning let me get this connector disconnected and we'll get on with the program here I see it that was a two-handed operation and then I touched that metal piece and then burnt my hand yeah it's a warm kind of day today let's uh let me change my mind real quick on the Fly let's go out for a test drive and see what the steering feels like on this Mustang Plus I haven't driven a 50 000 mile 1998 Mustang in in a very long time I kind of want to just drive this car oh bin says me close says me let's get out of here look at here look [Music] the steering look at that steering wheel to the left it just kind of stays yeah something's going down with this thing it appears to be binding let's head over the bridge pick up some speed see how it feels going a little bit faster and then we'll uh we'll get it up on the rack for a visual inspection stays left stays right it stays left okay confirmed nope not gonna do it I'm just not gonna do it I can wait [Music] and we're off [Music] and at 60 miles per hour that sticking steering wheel business is doing the same thing it does not recover back to straight line driving kind of unstable it feels dangerous I wonder if it cooled down any while we were gone see thermal meter oh look 100.9 I guess it didn't cool off while we were gone okay it's hotter anyway let's nose this thing in we'll get the rack set up and take a look down below see what's going on with our steering system right about yeah that's good parking Seattle starting down in the late 90s Ford ding still haunts me all right let's see what we got under the hood down here what's going on where's our latch at there she is we yell our board match 4.6 instead of two valve yes that's a two valve four six nice pretty clean in here too she's looking really nice there we go let's see if we have a steering leak or something and now now the fluid's full wow look at that this thing has Hydro Boost check this out look it has power steering assisted vacuum boost no brake booster I did not know that the Mustangs had a Hydro Boost no way wow this thing's a nice car it really is okay okie dokes the rack is set let's get this thing up in the air we go that's good on the locks for safety all right so down below taking a look at our steering we've got our outer tie rod inner tie rod steering gear also known as the rack and pinion and again on the other side I don't see any leaks so the bushings on the steering here aren't falling out of it actually yeah they are look look look that's starting to tear and come out I mean I don't think that's their problem let's uh let's pry bar this thing and see if it moves pry bar coming in yeah that movement's minimal I think that is a problem but it's not the problem I don't I don't think that's so much uh the issue at hand here it's not the greatest it's gonna be hard to achieve a good wheel alignment but that's uh it's not why the thing's sticking okay here let's come out of here and we'll try to turn these wheels oh not rotate but steer left to right maybe two-handed I mean yeah they turned it that's pretty tight kinda yeah that feels a little tight um I have an idea let me pull these wheels off real quick incoming cry driver do we have wheel locks in here negative awesome incoming loud noises I'm gonna pull uh the other side off too what we're gonna do is we're gonna isolate components in the steering system lights dying and we're going to isolate components raw see what's going on with the uh that binding business all right let's cruise on over to the driver's side we'll pull that wheel and what I'm gonna do is pull tie rods and we're going to rotate these steering Knuckles because I want to see if one of the ball joints binding and sticking and not allowing the wheel to turn freely without excessive friction no I lost the race [Music] okay I'm gonna try to turn this knuckle that brakes are hot as far this way as we can everything's hot so we can uh work on our little tie rod right here oh He-Man strength no time for two I'm just kidding I can't pull uh Connor pins out by hand it's like I just can't do it it'd be cool if I could but I can't so I won't if I can try all right reverse impacts coming in that's an 18 millimeter let's get that guy off come here rustamatic too all right here let me scoot you guys over we need to get some linear impact action on the steering knuckle right here we need to jar this piece here so that the tie rod shaft will come out of the knuckle I wanted to get a puller on there but this uh this boot is flared in such a way and staked on where I can't get a puller behind it without damaging the boot so we're gonna have to do this Hammer method thank you seriously I don't want to hit it that hard I'll tear the boot or hit the boot and tear the boot no way escalation level two coming in all right we're gonna have to do this with the pneumatic gun it gives me more impacts in a more controlled fashion because I don't want to tear that that boot just in case there's nothing wrong with this tie rod foreign see that that is requiring much more Force than it should to turn that is a sticking ball joint 100 and look at here the boots torn off of it you can see yeah that inside of that ball joints all crudded up that's no good let's see if we can watch it turn here yeah it binds it's binding right there okay it's gonna be ball joint on this side let's go check the other side over here this one should be able to turn much more freely let's go ahead and pull this one part two just to make sure I mean it looks okay the boot's not torn but never know all right we'll go through this one kind of quick one more time cotter pin and we'll pull this tie rod out check this other side like I said I don't I didn't feel this one binding but it has lived a similar life as the other side so we don't know we're gonna find out right now all right reverse torque on our nut here are you goodbye nut dramatic impacts coming in loud right on there please all the way all right I'll do it I meant to do that oh this thing's that's bound up pretty good too yeah that one's not the greatest okay yeah I think uh I think we're gonna do a front end rebuild on this a little bit Let's Lose the ball joints I'd like to put tie rods on it that's that's pretty stiff and if they don't want to rotate oh yeah if these don't want to rotate or these and these are combining up it's going to prevent this thing from swinging back to its neutral position so we're gonna have to put in some front end parts on this and uh go from there we're going to go ahead and execute the full monty on these repairs it's going to end up being the uh the lower ball joints the outer tie rods we're gonna put some shocks and struts in it too because this stuff's pretty worn out so let's get it apart I'm gonna start with the caliper here we're pulling two pallets with bolts out hang the caliper over there on the frame somewhere and then we'll get after the ball joint see how this is going to work out for us here there we go we need some lubricants in there that's uh it's not gonna work out brake pads are good okay let's figure out how to safely hang up this caliper so it doesn't fall down and damage the hose see here thinking through there and then up on that bolt maybe I don't like that here we'll hang it off of uh the fender liner there we go perfect all right so because this ball joint bolt is kind of captured by these uh strut bolts let's just go ahead and pull these guys out right now loud noises wrong socket too what is this let's try the 24 because it's not the 22. there we go wrench on the other side to hold the bolts beautiful looks good [Music] number two foreign [Music] it's going to be annoying okay we need to get this bolt out of the way it's loose but it's still got a little bit of pressure on it so I'm just gonna kind of tap that thing through turn [Music] there now it's out of the way yeah like I said it's got some pressure on it not a boat load just enough to be annoying manual reverse clicks since the impact's not going to do it huh there we go that one bottom one oh come on now you know oh don't do that the spindle's trying to turn there we go woohoo violence [Music] there okay brackets off rotors off things are out of the way so we're gonna put some spring pressure up on the coil spring see that all right cotter pin dig this thing out of here that's made out of rust it almost broke in half just now it's nasty nasty pin come on out [Music] oh good it's [Music] mood leverage increasing Leverage okay 24 coming in that's for our ball joint bolts too tight squeeze I can't I can't fit in there well my wobbly bits can [Music] there we go so much for that idea let's put this back stay up there there we are all right let's free up the top of the spindle and knock that upper bolt out it's got some pressure on that more than I had anticipated it's taking pressure off of our punch now Knuckles free here we go now I can let this down a little bit a good view of that nasty ball joint ruined alrighty so next up we need to free this ball joint stud from that steering knuckle pneumatic impacts and we're gonna try to jar this loose if it doesn't work we'll uh we'll escalate from there this might work foreign Fork on this I might not but it's worth a shot that way the arm chairs don't have to go did you ever hear of a pickle for it so we're gonna try to get one of those in there and see if we can't drive this thing in to separate maybe we'll uh we'll get some pressure on it uh and we'll run the impact whatever we got to do [Music] okay it's going in we're getting some upward pressure back it up some get some bigger impacts here with the uh the larger Hammer see what happens don't slip and hit your hands will hurt ask me how I know oh all right did it work nope all right everybody this is absolutely horrible and my heart sank when I realized the shocking truth that the audio has become corrupted from the GoPro I had no idea what was going on so uh my choices are either to abandon this entire video and then not post it at all and not have anything to do for tomorrow or I would attempt to recover it uh simply by use of a voiceover so that's what we're going to try to do now as we just saw the pickle fork didn't work hidden thing with the air hammer didn't work hitting it with a regular Hammer didn't work so I'm gonna try various ball joint pullers to attempt to remove this one this right here is not actually a ball joint boiler I believe it's a Pitman arm puller either way it will work just the same however slight issue is that I think it's a little too wide and it appears that as I'm tightening tightening the thing down it it is starting to slip out from the uh the steering knuckle so that one's out I'm gonna try a smaller one I didn't really want to use this one because I'm afraid of breaking it plus the threaded Rod actually has a pointed end and this ball joint stud is flat and I was afraid it was going to dull the pointy end on the threaded rod but it's the only tool that I had that was going to fit so send it and it's also slipping yep try again that one's not going to work out negatory what am I doing so it slipped off but I'm gonna try it again I knew better I knew better but I wanted to I just had to try again it's in my nature oh a third time yeah it's just I'll hold it by hand I wonder why I have trolls seriously I can make whole videos on me just trolling myself this is ridiculous first time didn't work yeah there you go give up Ray good okay we're gonna put the nut back on ah that puller this is my favorite puller but I lost the little flat bearing in that goes in the end of the threaded shaft and this one's my favorite because it uh it's adjustable and it fits like everything question is is this one gonna work I think it's gonna work we've already Jarred the knuckle plenty by hitting it with hammers this totally should work so I've tightened the thing down by hand and a bunch of sweat just squirted out of my glove you see that that was kind of gross anyway we're gonna I'm gonna tighten this thing down this thing is actually taking a lot of torque and it's flexing my snap whoa whoa there it goes okay it's off or something broke after a quick examination of my ratchet I realize it is not broken and looks like the ball joint has come free good now it is time to get out the ball joint press and get ready to push this thing out of the control arm I think I tore this nasty boot off oh yeah some lube yep this is a press in press out type of ball joint put some spray on it yeah there we go let's tear off this uh it's torn Boot and see the Carnage inside it's pretty crowded up it's been exposed to atmosphere and Road Grime and dirt for a while so that stuff just ground away at the ball and socket joint all right we're coming in with the ball joint pressed since I tore away the boot I could just put the Press directly on the face of the ball joint this part is a hard metal and it should push the socket section of the joint out with relative ease over here on the bottom side we're going to go ahead and put in the adapter that's going to allow the bottom of this ball joint to slip through the control arm as we begin the Press with a couple quick hits from the impact it's pressed right out [Music] got it and all over the floor we'll give this surface a quick wipe down it's covered in lube and there's some dirt so I'll wipe that stuff off the inside looks good and it is prepared to press in the new ball joint nothing special run-of-the-mill aftermarket ball joints they're built to last so anyway to press this ball joint in we simply flip over the adapters leaving room for the stud of the ball joint to pass through the center hole on the upper adapter and through the hole on the C-clamp looking portion the green section of the of the ball joint press now that I've got the bottom adapter over the metal part of the ball joint socket joint we'll get this screw in and tight and prepare to put some torque on the screwing section of the tool and then we'll press this joint up and into the control arm all right this side is done we're going to go ahead and move around to the passenger side again I will pull off this crusty pinned brake caliper get this thing removed yeah that's nasty there's just one pin so we rock the caliper out and then it slides off of the second pin which is just screwed into the caliper bracket and I learned my lesson the thing kept falling down so I'm zip tying these up now the little hooks kept giving way when I was hitting this thing with the air hammer there's a lot of torque on these uh caliper bracket bolts again it was flexing the ratchet there it goes you see the dust smoke coming off of the bolts when it breaks loose all right so I learned from the other side that this 24 millimeter bolt right here in the top the strut is in the way of me reaching that 15 millimeter bolt for the top of the brake caliper bracket which was quite annoying probably could have got it with a wrench but I have power tools all right the Cotter Keys coming out this one just broke apart and in pieces is actually pretty crusty let's get our bottom bolt I'm flirting with fire here I didn't bring the jack stand over and we'll just pull the bolts out with spring pressure it's fine there's two bolts in there see the second one I'm just getting it Loose yeah that's what we're doing we're preparing to relieve the spring pressure right no let's just Hammer him out why not living on the edge trolls entering chat let's take the ball joint nut loose next ah no not all the way see we're still safe look if I'm lucky the spring pressure will just break the ball joint loose but it's probably not going to happen those things were stuck in there pretty good I don't think they've ever been removed yep Jack's coming up there goes some spring pressure tap the upper bolts out for the steering knuckle there is still some pressure there but it's not like it would be if the spring had its way with those bolts oh I didn't get a chance to explain the claw hammer see I uh my medium Hammer is at my house and not here and I didn't want to use the big giant hammer so the only intermediate Hammer that I had between my large hammer and my small Hammer is this particular claw hammer you see it could be argued by some that a claw hammer actually has no business being in an automotive shop because that tool is for pulling Nails out and prying up pieces of wood and we're not doing any of those things in the shop so technically that tool should not be there hey look wife unit is here she wants something I wonder what it is I think she was getting ready to go home actually anyway we're getting this uh polar set back up you'll notice that I put that nut over the ball joint stud and again that's there to keep the end of that puller from sliding off the top of the stud so we're turning this knuckle and getting out of the way we've got to put this in a position where we can get good leverage and a good pull on the assembly Torx coming up this is the moment where tools break it's always cringy two hands on it the second hand is so it doesn't uh put aside whoa it's so you can hold everything straight and not put a side load on the tool on the puller and that can help with preventing the puller from sliding off of the work well it probably wouldn't slide but it could twist or end up turning at an angle and that could make it slip off but then if it slips off then it technically is sliding okay we're going to do this differently I think it'll work I'm just gonna go full Savage on this with the big hammer and I'm just gonna beat this ball joint out of the control arm I've still got the jack stand under it so the control arm can't Flex when I hit it with a hammer and I don't really care about those threads yeah look at that with the pointy end too I'm just like going at it it's totally gonna work watch this is great just annihilating this thing look there we go it came right out super easy that was kind of fun so anyway uh no I'm not gonna smash the new in with a hammer too much I'm gonna get it started a little bit you know just get it secure and then uh we'll finish it off with the actual ball joint press yeah there we go see got the see-through press cone it's actually not see-through so we can record it I think there's a particular ball joint that that specific adapter was made for where the steering knuckle was in the way or something like that or you had to press it off the knuckle you could remove the knuckle from the ball joint it's there for a reason anyway this tool is all set up just uh press this thing in now all right looking good it's in its home good to go but we're not done yet because these front struts are coming out and the rear shock absorbers are coming out fortunately we've already done most of the work to get the struts out so let's lower this thing down and we should have just one more bolt or nut rather up at the top and again that's a little rusty I'll spray some lube on it hit with an impact this one's not coming out it's actually turning this shaft so I have to reach around and kind of put a side load on the strut and it puts extra friction in the shaft and that allowed the bolt to come off and then the rubber Mount that just pops right out of that little uh little bracket there same thing on the driver's side I had to put a side load on the straw in order to uh generate friction so we're gonna go back up and moving around to the rear shock absorber it's got one bolt on either side of the axle and then one nut and one stud inside of the trunk so we're pulling the wheels off and again we'll we'll uh we'll fetch the jack stand and pull both of these lower bolts out the bolt head is a 15 millimeter and the uh the nut is an 18 millimeter and I'll just go in with a wobble drive and an 18. pull that guy right off so what's happening here is that the axle is trying to fall down farther than its current position and the only thing stopping it is actually the shock absorbers so technically the axle is just hanging off of these shocks therefore the axle is also hanging off of these bolts using the jack stand we took some of that pressure off and I'm just gonna slightly tap this bolt out hey look I have found a use for a claw hammer or I tried to nah what am I doing claw hammering a shock absorber bolt out seriously it's awesome it worked even the wrong Hammer is still a hammer anyway I'm letting this thing down I need to scooch the jack stand over to the other side and we'll just repeat the same procedure I'm giving that shock a quick test it compressed very easily I'm not thrilled with it by the way I am so frustrated with the audio situation in this video that if you guys are still here uh just thank you for that I imagine a lot of people would have clicked Away by now it's it's I'm still upset about it as we go on I'm just trying to sort of get through this and hope it never happens again I I probably need to get a better microphone I think I'll get one of those Bluetooth microphones Power Stroke Tech talk from A-Rod sent me a link to a pretty good one he says he switched to a uh one of those wireless mics a few months ago and it works much better than the GoPro mics as I ramble on while I take this Rusty bolt out and again thank you guys because you're just sitting here listening to me Ram a lot about nonsense and YouTube truck channels while we take apart this crusty Bolt oh by the way I'm not going to edit any of this audio I'm just going to get through this and kind of observe and narrate as best I can and if if something happens here it happens here I'm just I'm not going to go back and and go through and try to reshoot audio because I don't like to do voice overs like I said I'm still really bothered that my camera's broken but I suppose this is the lesser of two evils it's like uh it's like story time story time with Ray there we go what somebody somebody called me like in the comments once like the Bob Ross of auto mechanics and I mean I saw Bob Ross video the other day and I I mean I I kind of get it but I don't know if I'm a Bob Ross I mean Bob Ross is legendary I'm just some guy Okie dokes I've had some parts delivery action I've got a new shock absorber on the right and the old one on the left do a quick side by side comparison of these two units and we'll just see how worn out the old ones really were versus uh so the way I'm gonna do this is we're just going to compress and observe so observed push that one down real easy yeah that's pretty easy to move I could do it one-handed this one I gotta kind of put some weight on it okay and you see the rebounds a little bit slower let's do a race let me get this first one compressed okay definite Improvement here let us go ahead and get our Hardware set up on this new shop oh There She Goes run away let's get the hardware set up and then uh we'll get this new unit installed and that's going to slip on on the interior underneath of that washer so we're ready to roll take this guy right here and what we're gonna do is set it in position there and we're gonna run it up through the hole and then down below I'm just gonna put it right on top of that bracket for now see that bracket we'll just slide it right up there so it's in position we can go inside now and uh [Music] bolts installed so what they gave us with the new shock is the new washer a new bolt and a new rubber grommet so what we're gonna do is I'm going to take this old piece of rubber off come here we're going to lose that one because I wish to use this one I like these pieces of Hardware better than the ones that came with it I think they look nicer and that's what we're going to use if I can there we go get that guy started all right here's my input no never mind that one's not gonna work the threads don't uh they don't engage that shaft is larger so it looks like I'm stuck with using the other Hardware I got to use the stuff that came with it that's fine I wonder if that goes like that to match the taper yeah that's gonna go that way yeah I've got to use this one no getting around it all right I had to switch my socket out to the 18 because that thing's larger send it see what happens okay all right that's looking pretty good we've got some thread exposed I can feel that the uh the washer I'm sorry the The Grommet has been compressed let's take a look down here that looks pretty good can't really see much but from what I can see it looks fine to me so that one's in position let's grab the driver's side next oh compressing there we go Sendo absorber I need you you and you where's my nut hey Miss simular protocol on this other side take this guy maneuver it on up into that hole right there making sure that the cone part of that grommet goes into the into the hole that will give it a nice good chug there we go cool that's in position let's get it bolted out of here we can see The Grommet came through let's set the new one up and that was taking a there we go where's my gun [Music] there we go all right that one's in let's check down below looking good we're dangling very nice okay I need now to put my premium nice super clean interior back together all right interior panels going back in I think this one slips behind this one up here in the front just sneak that guy back around where it goes get in there ow short it hurt my hand that's awesome carpet back in it goes right there and then our back panel will uh we'll seal the deal here all right back panel coming in right here I just kind of sits back there's a knot okay well it's not really a notch but it's molded in the back to fit this just like so and we'll put our pins back in little push Clips there's three of them push them in we're good two number three over here and this section of the rear shock absorbers is complete back up [Music] all right we're back up in the air let's get our pole Jack under the axle we'll pick the axle up and then get uh his bolts aligned and then we can bolt these bottom bolts in and this operation will be good come on up keeping an eye on the lift arm because when picking things up like this sometimes you can lift it up and it'll actually pick the vehicle up off of the lift arm on that corner and that's a very unstable way of doing things if the leverage isn't right it's very possible so far so good got about another half inch to go and keep going keep going almost there and we're aligned beautimous all right bolt coming in well now we were aligned it's at a bit of an angle not what I wanted I wanted it to go in perfectly but you can't always get or what you want I've seen that to my kid he gets so mad because it's funny oh it's funny to me anyway it's not really funny to her that one's in let's move over grab the driver's side next coming down here you guys come on over too bumpy ride wow got a couple inches to go on this one more one more inches to go still watching that lift arm on this side half an inch oh we're starting to pick the car up I saw it move okay well we're gonna have to redo this one somehow some way oh man my look my whole jacket's stuck it didn't release it's at a at an angle what is this I'll kick it there stupid thing physics so I need to move I'm going to move this over so I'm just to kind of get better leverage on the situation here it's all about leather I notice it seem like much but that little like half an inch or whatever for one inch might make a difference here and I'm actually going to lower the vehicle down because I also think I was running out of threads on the pole Jack sketchy how's that I didn't do anything more thank you there how's that oh that worked I win and we're still picking the vehicle up off the ground a little bit we're off the lift so that's why we have the three legged pole Jack that's less dangerous or so basically I got this thing racked up with three lift arms holding the weight and then the rest reported with this Jack right here no matter impact's coming in begin tightening there we go all right let's raise it back up [Music] and we are good that is that rear shocks are in put this stuff aside so at this point I'm still in a parts hold so I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna pause on this mustang and I'm gonna go ahead and move on and move on to some other things I have a we're doing some cleaning and detail work so I'd like to get some of that done before the end of the day so that being said I think I'm going to go ahead right now and close this video out and I will do that as always by thanking all of you guys for watching this video hope you enjoyed this video if you did enjoy this ball joint slash shock absorber video please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below don't forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly have yourselves a fantastic day see you guys later in the video in a Mustang and a day in transmission

Channel: Rainman Ray's Repairs

Views: 963,695

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Id: 0rkpZl-MSlw

Length: 45min 59sec (2759 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 10 2023