Taper Boring on the Mill

I've had this tract DPM forever and uses cat 40 coolers and this is my current tool holder organizational method which was okay when I had just a few tool holders but lately I've been getting some jobs where really pays to have some additional holder so that could be changing tools they had the older that often so today I'm going to tackle making a board to mount on the wall right here behind the machine and have a setup for or I guess 24 Caffery holders so this is also an a chance to do some taper boring on the mill using a tree taper boring head like all projects you start out thinking what do I have around that I could use to create what I'm after and I had some bench tops leftover from these craftsman benches that are around the walls here and it's inch and a half MDF and I had one left over where I put a cast on top on one of the tables and so this was just about perfect for what I was after I'm going to bore tapered holes that matched at 46 of them across here this was the original width of the table or the bench top and then I liked because I need more than then just same world I have to walk all over the place and be able to turn around the mill and reach for these I thought well I'll stagger these such that the next one on the wall this clears so that you can have longer tools and not have that these fixed you know long enough to be able to reach straight up put them straight and you put the next one above you could run out of room here so this way you can have a super long tools and won't matter they'll be on there and initially I'm thinking okay I've got my my little wedges kind of the same stuff and I'll space and written in between where the the holes are but then I'm going to have to put on a hole through here and try to hit studs the 16 inch stud spacing on the walls and all that and I'm thinking I looked at the walls and we're all movies to the correct stud spacing and finally realized you know what this is nuts just mount these on a entire board being able to screw anywhere I went from the back mount them in the in their positions and spacing be able to glue them onto this get a really good bond use some growth glue on these and bond them and and screw them to the together I think it's Matt this whole board and hoobae I could carry lot so I'm gonna do is find where I put it not much does lines and run a few route throws of heavy drywall screws to hold this into the wall and so that's where I ended up and what I do now is actually drill and bore these holes and get the tree taper boring head out and since this isn't really critical I could go run CNC and moving it fancy but that's kind of waste of time I'm just going to put a real thin magic marker line on these at the correct locations put a witness mark on my vise and literally just move these by I clamp a high clamp i clamp because it's not critical and you know why waste time getting all crazy with the other stuff and we'll start by drilling might step drill this depending zone have to take a lot out with the boring head and go from there so paper on and will fire up the bridge work just a little sanity check here to make sure the angle that we got off the internet jives with what these things physically look like so take a quick look at this thing 116 degrees 40 SEC 40 minutes 16 degrees 40 and so it sounds about right so my trusty old HP here as a in the under the time menu has a conversion from hours milliseconds to decimal and vice versa so I'm going to type in the 16.4 for 16 degrees 40 minutes and obviously we're going from hours minutes seconds to the decimal and comes up to sixteen point six six six six on on to divide for the half angle which is on the drawing and the angle I got off the internet was eight point two nine seven eight degrees so plenty plenty close enough for what we're doing in MDF for a tool holder so I'm light out just a pencil mark on here for the locations where I'm going I realized that pencil will probably work better on these then then a fine sharpie because one sharp he's going to bleed but I just got these stack together I'm just going to draw a line across all of them for my reference so I'll just go line up with my witness mark on my vise jaw for spacing these quicker than cranking to coordinates anyhow so for this kind of work it's going to work well okay got our witness marks on there and put parallels in the middle go to town yep going to wipe the Vice down here with some alcohol we don't want get oily residue on the MDF as far as uh for gluing purposes so and also for the ball the sawdust sticking to the oily surface you so just be greasing this a little bit and we'll put some parallels in rubber bands just need enough for the tip of the drill to poke through and it's going to be in the gully anyhow but I'll Center it in the vise here so there were sit we'll put our mark on here with the mesh marker sharpie for our center line that will line up visually with our marks get a good dark line there pieces are just going to set in like this and we're just going to line them up by eye on the on each location we're going to drill with an inch and a half drill first part way down and then H and 1/8 drill through your are picking up on my line to make sure that I'm actually lined up with life mark across here I have a pencil line in the middle here that I'm going to be speeding really touch down the line and get centered up that way you're fine just moved around Oh like that and then we're going down to Incheon for point hsdb put them on the touch so I'm just going to see where I am here on the call at zero on my digital it's going to get point eight deep on these the next one and the lather rinse repeat on all those I'm taking real heavy feed real slow feed rate to minimize the amount of dust of generating I'll drag the vacuum over here and suck all this up so here it is tree boring head this whole plate swivels you can see your degree setting here on the on the side the mount this came when I bought this at an auction this came with a huge taper shank and it's hard solid hard all the way through so I brace have sawed it off obviously I took it out of the lis holder I raced the started it all sawed it off and then hard turned it to a seven eighths diameter a relief to clear the collet nose and then this bears on the nose of the mill spindle similar to what tormach does they they didn't invent that that method they just used it so it gives you a very rigid coupling but as the collet pulls back in the process of tightening it puts pressure on the face here similar to a duei hsk works hsk holder works so that's how we got them out there nice and short and compact this works with a rack and pinion this is a to some sawdust here it's got a two two-stage nut here this is just an outer cap once you loosen it then you drop the wrench in further till you engage the hex then you have full control of driving this wherever you want it rapid to go wherever you're trying to get to like that so and you can see it actually drives with a let me get my wrench out of here it drives with an actual gear there in the center and that's what spins it goes down through and turns that gear and so it's an actual reckon pinion drive in this particular section here but it breaks for really nice to be able to just back up quickly when you're done aboard you release the nut get to where you want to go and then just tighten the outer shell nut like that and then as this turns in this direction going forward this will feed down this is all hardened this this dovetail plate here is hardened and then it uses a tapered cone this is hardened also these different doctors there's two four boring bars and then there's one that has an actual bore for using like round boring bar shanks and I have some reducing sleeves that I use on there so I think isn't very often but when you need it it comes in very handy so this goes on with a nut and washer and it's nice it's a nice fit looks rough and it is rough but it's hardened and the important parts are are finished nicely so and that's how you adjust your size like when your taper boring you literally have no control over this other than what you do here or adjusting your depth so depending on what you're doing that can be tricky so you can use this for facing off you can tell it to turn this a full 90 degrees and use it for facing or anything in between there's a tool like round up just a chunk of solid carbide a little little back rake to it it's cutting in this direction like this because the way that sits and holder I've got the top rake lapped actually all the cutting edges are left with one micron on the on the ceramic lap you can see it's a mirror finish on there so I got micrometer annual face and the actual cutting edges are left like that also so it should cut pretty well this thing feeds at five thousand spur revolution and that's why I've got a pretty generous radius out here to kind of bridge that not that it has to be any kind of spectacular finish but you know what look you ratty one important thing to keep in mind when you're born with this is making sure this is the angle we're on we're sitting like this angled this direction we want to make sure that we have our cutting tool on that side you could get not be thinking and just put your tool over on this side and you'd end up with not what you want you'd actually be boring a taper the opposite direction which at times may be what you're after but in this case I want this to taper this way I want to be this is the top surface and we're going to cut this to gauge line on the kap-40 is inch and 3/4 the line right here right where the tapir stops so we're going to try this in and out I have the digital zero in my eyeball location so I can come back to this move over to the side to check and then fortunately a I get up enough room and the tip of the tips this is going down in the gully so another one of those important things think about when you set it up I did put higher parallels in one reason for the higher parallels is that I'm going to put my vacuum hose right in underneath here and suck the chips hopefully right down through the through the bore right some Turk as I'm as I'm working so right underneath here keep it there and because I'd like to use a reasonable speed here okay so I have my tool here where I'm have this the outer nut you just go in about an eighth of an inch here on the back and this outer cup style nut and then go into the inner one and this is what drives us up and down so I'm coming all the way to the top locking there now it's going to drive when I hold the ring it's got my initial setting here which I think it's going to be okay for might be a little big so I'm actually going to adjust this and literally just just the pivotal adjustment of size there so I'm going to go this since this is an inch and a half hole I'm looking at roughly 1/8 inch of cut that's in the ballpark right there I'm just going to take a cup so it won't start for the vacuum noise okay now when I retract I just loosen my nut put my wrench through and crank her back pretty sweet setup now I'm going to measure here just with scale and I got another whole sixteenth of an inch to go here I want to take this in one cut I don't want to be fooling around here taking rough and finishing all Adam I'm kind of a crash and burn kind of guy when it comes to getting getting the job done and so I'm going to run this down until it's closer to the surface loosen my nut drive down here and picture my what I say I need here another sixteenth so I'm going to picture my thirty second of an inch there visual and the other thing you can do it just wise wants them in the ballpark you can adjust with our height so I got to get close here and then I can fine-tune okay I believe there we're going to go from I have my didge I have my digital Z zero here so that I can make fine-tuned adjustments there for up and down now remember to take the wrench out so I can actually drive down to them ready to cut slide back into the outer clamp nuts we're going to go all the way through this time that's pretty cool Louie I say we're we're we're there I'm going to crank off now and so I can stick my holder in oh that's nice I have it intentionally I when I set this the angle setting I intentionally made it so that it was going to hit on the gauge line first it numbers if it's going to error on my angle I was going to make it so that it's hitting on the top not at the bottom so there's room at the bottom for the tail to move wiggle around a little bit but I'm not I'm not trying to nail this thing I mean this is plenty good enough for what we're doing I'm just dropping a tool in there and it's nice and protected now I'm deeper oh no I got an eighth inch there I'm just going to raise that up about 30,000 so that I don't have any issues with tools that might have a closer gauge line so it's going to call my digital here raise the entire head up about 30,000 and be 0 it and keep in mind now this quill motion directly affects the location of the taper and obviously affects the diameter at the face here so that's good to go we're going to move over to another one the vacuum through the bottom is working marvelous and so I'm just going to come here line up with my pencil line again like we've been doing come back to my zero here and you'll notice I'm starting to get a little chatter and a little howl as I get through there in that part that's because that this thing isn't like super heavy-duty that you look at the proportions of the this plate isn't all that beefy so and at the bottom it's taken almost a full quarter inch face full face of the tool down here so now I'm going to lock my outer cup not there and go ahead and fire up and go down through I found you might have noticed a little shake in the camera and that's what I said ah let's try a little faster in obviously the limiting factor on this is the out of balance of this thing because you got this one big huge side that's there so they didn't need to put a warning on there because anybody in their right mind it's going to find out real quick what's too fast okay we're back with putting the part back in where we had done these first three with a single pass brough to all the other ones now with the roughing pass just going to go over and give my tool just a little link on the on the lap for the finished cut probably doesn't need it but want to go over do it anyhow okay that thing's crazy sharp is definitely gonna give us a nice cut this should behave a lot better now with a reasonable reasonable cut I also actually tweaked the Gibbs reloop the slide there anything and tweak the gifts a little bit I'm just going to actually come out and sweep into the cut okay a little better vantage point here for watching this go down through the bore go turn the vacuum on just a little tooling that originally when I was cutting before I had the those this tool was square I just it was squared off on the end which left a very large lead angle so almost a full cord range of engagement of a lip of tool which makes for a lot more loading a lot more chance for chatter so I just whack the tool off here at so that the lead angle is minimal basically the square to the direction of cut and just the nose radius on there and go see if that gets rid of some of that hell so that was a good good lesson there in paying attention by getting rid of that very very long cutting lip and because it had a very shallow lead angle and the cut and squaring it up so that it had minimal length of engagement in the cut got rid of the noise so we'll do one here I hope you hear over the vacuum we go I don't know why I said hope you can hear it over the vacuum when I'm shooting for silence but yeah no noise know how at the bottom so good lesson for for everyone about the length of cutting lip relative to chatter here's the drawings that were in this the I got I got this an option quite a long time ago but here's an actual drawing where they measured all the parameters for the actual fit of how this attaches inside the inside that boring head this is actually the adapter that I had mentioned that I whacked often and hard turned all this to fit the 7/8 collet with a face facial contact here's another one that they did they had in there was the another adapter and obviously this was to go on some other something else they had and the 7/8 14 thread is the thread that's in the boring head and then it pilots on these two diameters in the face there they knit they've got these ground and then here's the instructions I really should make a scan of this and clean this up but everything's still legible here this is the actual instruction manual shows you all a different lubrication taper boring on this side straight boring facing outside turning straight boring you can actually set that at 90 degrees and then each division on the outer dial is one ten thousandth of an inch on diameter so I'm not sure how well that would work since it's kind of a rack and pinion drive but never really tried it cuz I have another boring head that's better suited for that but just interesting piece of equipment and I thought you guys might get a kick out of seeing it in operation an interesting design note on this is that the taper that they formed but they ground on the inside of this for the that holds that boring position is right on that verge of being a locking taper it's right on that border line so you tighten it it actually sticks it doesn't stick real hard so that was that was a really nice touch to the guys who designed this is getting that taper just that right angle where when you tighten nut that holds it on this is not right here that locks it on you don't and have to enter into a contest of strength with it to be sure that it's not going to move when you're boring this thing because of it being a on the verge of a locking taper really works nice it's just a light tap with a wrench and it's break loose so really real my hats off to the guys that engineered that then there are some bushings that I've made for the this adapter this is actually the depth or that has the hole in it for boring bars so these are different sized hardened sleeves that I made for using small carbide boring bars with it using the chamfer Meister here to put a bevel on the wood wrap right around the corners just sand nice Babylon the whole length real estate as you can see it's a really quick way to get a nice channel excusing the samox by here it gets a slap off the bottom of these holes do the same on the top be using this chamfer mill 30 degree chamfer milk every ready tool I'm going to put bevel on the back edge of the block to get some more blue area on there so I'm just going to go to the full width of this insert that I can get on there and just slide it down through the vise multiple times on the bridge board everything set here or in the Bridgeport for the location and just feeding across stopping when I get reminded of travel wrap it in back riri clamping and going the rest of the way drilling some pilot holes for the angle blocks wedding wood for the gorilla glue to go on and massage in the grove move around to get a good good spot there to have it's uniformly distributed drilling my starter holes for the screws that will actually mount these to the board so these are in strategic locations to match with the holes that are in the board and at the basically root diameter of this same procedure here with wetting the surfaces for the gorilla glue I already have my holes and the board lined up putting drywall screws up to the bottom and getting the glue on using the spatula there to smooth things out move it around I just have two screws in to go into the to end holes lining up and get them started and then then the other ones all go in from the bottom to pull the whole thing down you can see where the grill of glue has exuded out there in the corners I scraped that off before it gets real hard well it's easy to remove finally mounted to the wall and have the holders mounted in there and ready to go

Channel: ROBRENZ

Views: 114,746

Rating: 4.9258933 out of 5

Keywords: taper boring, boring, machining, machining tips, machining techniques, diy tool rack, taper boring techniques, tree, taper, mdf, cat 40, tool holders, milling, milling machine

Id: _p-j1vfM0bQ

Length: 31min 17sec (1877 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 24 2016