MAKING GROOVING BORING BARS

in my last video I was making new heads for this boring bar and making some additional new bars one thing I forgot to mention is be sure to file off the screw poking down through the bottom or if you're doing very close to the minimum diameter of the bar it will rub in this case it would have this is the part that I'm actually making these parts for I've done them before and all of this is kind of repair work on tooling that has failed so this is the groove tool that I've made before to do these internal grooves here so we're going in through a 5/16 diameter hole 0.3 1 2 5 diameter hole and putting a groove in that is radially almost 60,000 s deep so a lot of overhanging of the tool so this whole video is going to be on how I do these in multiples to make them practical and also make them interchangeable and repeatable position wise in the CNC so that if I break one or whatever I can literally just smack a new one in and carry on so in the same way that on the last tool making I had a system to enable changing the bits per operation rapidly to make it efficient to make the method of orienting the tool in this case which is the 45 degree flat this isn't new to me or to many others lots of manufacturers use this method and how this works is in the tool holder you'll have a pin or a reference edge whatever that comes in and this axially and rotationally or against the tool so that the location of this tool is fixed and if they're all made the same you can just interchange these just like an insert tool even though it's not an insert and get repeatable location so that is what this design is you'll notice here I've made this so that this can't be put in the wrong direction by making the face of this pin be on centerline and and hit this the block you're seeing here is what I use in my punch grinder to sit where I can just change this tool simply by loosening with two set screws I put this piece in and do whatever operation I'm doing whatever setup I'm doing on the tool particular cutting angle or whatever that I'm grinding and I can just quickly change these in a bump bump do that operation so the setup gets spread out for all the parts and also since this is the repeatable location the all these cutting edges end up in exactly the same place relative to the to the mount so that they repeat CNC wise I don't have to change any offsets on the CNC when I put this in and/or change it but this block has been designed to sit in the punch grinder and I'll show that later on now in the lathe I need something to be able to do the same thing so this is my gang tooling that I've designed and built this bushing is eccentric has a hex on the back so that you can adjust Center Heights by rotating the bushing but this has a special bushing where the bushing is split and in the back half here I'm holding a piece like this that interfaces like this with the part so it's doing the end control so this allows me to position this really reposition it get this tweaked into where I want the tool level and axial position and then this doesn't get loosened this stays put the whole time but I loosen these which are actually clamping the tool each time one of the important things that has to be taken care of is that this this has to be free so that when you see there's no drag on here if this is to draggy you won't be able to push this back firm enough to make sure that it actually seated so this is actually a screw that is um expands the slot I have a set screw on this side this is tapped just like the rest of them and the reason I'm using this hex head screw here these are all actually grade 8 screws is that these the tooling is going to stack right next to each other so I need to be able to get to this one in between when these respect these two particular tools are right next to each other so I need to be able to get to this to loosen this once I've got this in and seated then I'll back this off so that now I can clamp with these and hold the tool rigidly and the tools held like this it's working upside down so that's the whole system as far as how this repeats and you see here I can't this this is sprung shut and I can't get this loose now so I actually have to tighten this to get this to free up now I'm free to be able to put these in and out so this is real simple makes life real easy on the CNC like I said this isn't there are lots of people who lots of companies who make tooling like this that is replaceable with the exact same system some are little different some have a set screw with a bay whistle notch that pushes it back whatever but the principle is the same of having a angled flat that sieves with a mating part so here is our boring bar we have our 45 degree on the end here we have our sort of semi-elliptical relief which I'll show you here in a moment we have our carbide and raised on here here I've turned off the actual carbide piece so we're looking at the cross-section of the actual extended bar here and this is a 5/16 diameter hole which happens to be the same as the boring bar shank main shank and you'll see here by doing these two radii offset we're getting the most distance vertically here this from here to here we're keeping this beam as vertically as high as possible which is going to give it more bending strength in that direction these radii are actually smaller than the half of the 5/16 or 5/32 they're a little bit smaller but they could actually have in the full five sixteenths and it would have actually made this a little bit higher but I did this to get a little more clearance here is a master sketch that I did as the very beginning of the part I did my five sixteenths diameter outside I did my 135 radius on both cases here with the offset of the arc centers in order to get this ninety thousand s of clearance from the cutting lip which is at three hundred which leaves me twelve and a half thousands clearance to get in the hole with the boring bar to start with so it's tight quarters but this 90 is giving me 30 thousandths of clearance in the back of the bar here to be able to sharpen these as a group it turns out most of the time you get a chip tang or something and rip the heads off of these and that's one reason why they're made with a braised on head is so that the bar is still good and easy to replace so this is all the layout that I did here for the locations and these values these offsets from the centre of the actual bar are what I use on the punch grinder to offset to grind these radii zoomed in here on the carbide piece and we have three degrees of side clearance on both sides of this in this orientation and then we have three degrees back clearance the same way on both those phases now the thing that gets tricky is is if you had that insert or the carbide piece braised on square onto this tool holder you would have to grind this and you would have to hand grind this as it as it wraps around because remember this comes very close to the bore type of run off here of this clearance if this was doing a huge diameter where this ran off this way you could do your normal clearance and just a little little cleanup here and you'd be good this has to be good all the way around so an easy way to do that is to actually grind this three degrees both Direction is three degrees in one way right here and three degrees this way and I'm going to turn the this piece off I'm just going to hide this and you can see that the end of my bar is ground compound angle three degrees both directions it also allows me to finish just lap the face of the insert except where it's otters on and get a get both my angles done and without the having to do anything fancy this is already ground it already has everything clean so when I saw these pieces off I literally just saw silver solder them on and I'm ready to go all I have to do is grind all the other surfaces relative to that so here is this top flat right here where we're getting some clearance in this angle right here facing this direction is giving me still giving me all of my silver solder bearing area but it's giving room for these chips to kind of get forced into the hole these are fortunately leaves there through holes so I don't have to worry about chip packing so I'm kind of directing the chips back that way and keeping the strength of the tool and so that's why that is done in that that manner now I'm showing you the actual cutting edge details that I've got here these are the clearances you notice by putting this five sixteenths diameter circle offset to touch the lip of the cutting tool I can check for clearance down here where this is as to clear that so I can come up with the angle so to give me that clearance that I need I'm also putting in a will clear this up a little bit here so you can see what's going on I've got a ten degree back rake on here done with a circular tool that's ninety four diameter which is a diamond tool and I also have the arc Center locations of where this is so that I know where to go to my go into Bridgeport and put these in I can actually put this curved chip breaker in there using a rotary tool so you'll see that in action but I'm using this sketch layout to determine where those things are I know I'm 135 five off of Center when I indicated on these parts vertically so I can move off there and then just come in and touch until I clean up the edge and no I've got my correct radius in there for the for the chipbreaker here's my repeatable location block for these tools mounted in the punch grinder just a few points about V blocks in punch grinders and V blocks in general you'll notice that this wall thickness right here is very thin so if I just ran that screw down on this several things would happen number one I could actually collapse the wall here if I tightened it too tight and this wouldn't fit in anymore also this would have a tendency to spring up on each end and press down in the middle just because of the nature of everything acting like rubber pressed down here this is going to do this and that's also going to influence the axis of the part out here so a spreader block like that is always a good idea no matter what you're clamping but also the axial location this way of where this screw bears relative to what's bearing in the V block has a huge effect on whether this points downhill or uphill relative to the axis of rotation of the punch grinder so that is where you carefully position this and look for the midway point of the bearing area and Snug it with the spreader and then you can find tweak if you have to tweak your accesses a little bit if you're doing very very precise work you can get this to where what it's grabbing is not influenced by improper techniques with the V block some general concepts here about how I use the surface grinder or the grinder you think of this this is an axis of positioning and by using a angled walk as your reference here you can slide up against your reference for healing to instantly get a known angle either direction in the same way this can pivot in the vise like this so you see me using multiple devices and things like that it's because it's a very quick way and with the angle blocks it's a very fast way to set a position quickly and be able to just dance around here almost quicker than fooling around with a 2-1 cutter grinder nothing wrong with them and if I had space I'd probably have one but the surface grinder can do just about 99% of the things you do in there it can be done here maybe not as conveniently but it can be done since I'm not making these bars from scratch I already have the boring bar bodies done and I'm just replacing the heads I'm just going to go through the motions showing you the orientations and what I went through I'm going to do it with the with the part facing this way so it's easy to see what's going on but in reality to grind this would be pointing that way and everything would be happy when in the backside so first thing I'm going to insert my part make sure I'm seated put some axial pressure on it snug the set screws we're not entering into a contest of strength here with the set screws we're just snugging them enough that we know that the parts going to hold still on this punch grinder I have intentionally ground a flat surface here it's true to the axis of the punch grinder where I'm going to sit my indicator so first step is indicating in the round shank because that's my reference for all of my offsets so I adjust my B block up and down until I've got 0 0 and in this case we're not talking about tenths here this is just relief cuts so we don't have to get carried away now see that flat is to mount my indicator set up that I've made for this and it grips with this flexure right here I have two out two different oak well two o-rings in between here that control this such that this actually as this pulls up it expands grips the sidewalls this gives us something to resist it just scooting up the walls then once it grabs then it starts to compress this one and it holds this rigidly to the to the machine and it repeats very precisely to be able to put this on off so now I have zero knowing that my part is now centered now I can just move off set this by the amounts that are on my drawing so I have my drawing oriented as the part is sitting in the in the punch grinder so I don't get confused I look for the actual arc that I'm trying to grind this one I over here and say it's point O 2 1 3 offset and which way do I have to go to get this this is the current arc Center where the axis of rotation of the grinder is lined up with this origin mark the center of the OD I have to move down so now I just loosened my Deepak gently just enough that it's free I need to move down this is the pinion that moves this down so I'm gonna come over here and go to my o 21 3 the tents really doesn't matter for what we're doing here but close enough 50 million soph and like I said it's totally irrelevant this is just a clearance so now I put my indicator on here just to show you that roughly that is running that's where it was ground and that's exactly what we would have done we would come down here with a grinding wheel touched and just cleaned up on the backside and we would have known where we were to do that now once we've done that side we would change each one of these parts in and out we'd listen the set screws take the snap put the next one in same operation that's the beauty of the quick change is that this setup which takes a fair amount of finessing gets distributed over multiple parts so now we're going to look at the other side and we look at this radius this one which is actually the major material removal on here and we look at the ark center of it relative to this axis axis and we see that we're 81 0.08 1 3 inches so now we're going to move and that's the other way to get to here from that we are no actually it's just further this direction so we're just going to move further this here's where we were to get to there we're dropping still so now we're going to go to the 81 3 so I'm loosening my screw down here again just enough to be able to travel we want to scoot down to the O 81 3 just a little bit more until it moves a little easier there we go come down here seventy-nine now you can see that this gauge is like you know this is like insanely handy being able to make these moves and you realize that that's close enough I'm not worried about the 310 so I'm trying to share that principle is here or not we're not you know fooling around with the every last detail now you'll see the beauty of being able to just remove this and not lose our location take this off now we can come down here and focus on what's going on and we're going to actually be flipping over because this is a side we need to grind on I already have my indicator zeroed here on this so that you can see that even coming back to this old location this is running through that surface I'm sitting on that on the surface right here where we ground and that's good plenty close enough remember I said this would be facing the other way we'd be working on the back side of the punch grinder but we know we would touch here because we know that we taking from the drawing that we're taking exactly a hundred thousands really from here to here so here we can just come on here with zero on that top and then just plunge down taking a hundred thousand Soph move over the wheel plunge down okay come back and just do it reverse pass and we're good take this part out stick each one in do that every operation to all six of them and we're good to go and we've done the radii since this chain for 45 degree chamfer here is concentric to this position we're in right now we're going to do it right now just simply by pivoting the whole vise or the hole punch grinder in the vise at 45 degrees coming down in here with the wheel and just plunging down until we meet the corner and we're good to go same situation here everyone to interchange every part sip sip sip do it to all the six parts now this will be the first actual operation that is the real deal for redoing these heads so I need to clean off this surface hopefully just touching back to where it was originally and on what I'm doing there is I'm doing my angle this way my three degrees in this direction for my clearance this being the front of the tool so it's falling away this direction and then to get clearance this way I'll be tilting the part so I get a flat like this so it's three degrees this way three degrees this way that forms the compound three degrees both directions on the backside of the tool when I solder the flat carbide on to it so we're going to flip this around and do the real deal in the one the correct orientation so I need three degrees downhill so I'm sitting on my three degree angle block and then I'm just gently grabbing the vise and you notice this is why I'm not grabbing in furtherance cuz this is my mount for my motor drive so but we got plenty good enough grip here and there's my three degree block now I can use my three degree block down here on the table to set the angle in the other direction here I'm using a solid one two three block very hand around a handy on a grinder because it's super easy to clean to space out my three degree block which is giving me that angle so that I've got my compound angle set properly just by using the vise and the angle blocks you have just sit on the surface the change part let's release my box get up Rex get into my set screws here pull out these which next one in [Music] press axially wide load it while I plug the screw plug the other one make sure I go back to my father location make sure I'm actually on the 90 degree mark is easy to forget and then I'll run through the grind pick apart out lather rinse repeat gold pieces do a lot of cutting off with these very thin diamond and/or CBN discs but this extra thickness back there on the nut and that spacer keep you from cutting off things as close as you'd like to to the collet so I'm going to modify that this is my collet mounted back stop this is the actual arbor off the grinder and I've indicated it in so from the other piece turns into the what you see in the lower piece there plunge a bevel on the nut with my adjustable tool port off to spacer rings spacer original spacer wheel and our modified nut now you can see I can get really close to the collet nose and cut things off much better they're going to use the D bit grinder to slice off some pieces of this 5/16 diameter ultra microgreen carbide one real important thing is to have the angle here set at zero so we get a square cut and be at 90 degrees here on the stop and then we just have to feed in I'm going to touch off with this I have my dials zeroed on my main slide and I'm going to come in and bring this into here I'm going to come in and touch with the wheel using the feet of the actual spindle feed on this I'm going to turn on here loosen my spindle lock come in and just touch where I can tell that I'm touching on here there we go lock my spindle while I'm here I'm going to get rid of little sit on the end there I've cranked over my hundred and thirty five thousand which is going to place me off a disc enough that I'm not going to run into trouble I turn the vacuum on so you're not going to be able to hear but I'm gonna cut this off it's real time [Music] so that disk is cutting off really close to being one millimeter so I only need five thousands on there for cleanup so I'm gonna back off to 130 which will leave us take us down to 90 leaving us five thousandths to grind off the end there is our four little pieces of carbide ready to go be soldered on just think about how easy that was to cut those off easier than practically then high-speed steel when you have diamond super abrasive tooling or CBN tolling things just go immensely better don't be afraid of super abrasive let's take the one side and give it a rub one the diamond disc I'm in plate I want to get a nice uniform mechanical tooth on there make sure that this is flat for where we're going to solder and it's also forming the one cutting face of the insert so that's what we're doing oh nice so I heard the edges of these with a diamond file and then if glass beated them to get a nice uniform at a bright finish that's good for the silver solder to get a bite ever piece gripped in the vise we're all set up for the supporting the part the clamping of the part and not clamping it but holding it with a three-legged holder we have her face here that we just got done lapping with the disc with the diamond plate we're going to stick this down on here remember this surface is that we're putting that down on is actually pressing that on two separate will compound angles actually and I'll back up here so you can see what I'm doing clamp wise you can see there I've got a pretty big chunk on there so I've got good support but now I'm going to come in and focus in here and make sure I'm flux good but the important part here is that we're flush on the back because if we're not we're not going to poke out enough on the bar so that's the main thing everything else will will come out in the wash as long as this is good right there so use that back in my scale there to push that up and I'm going to flux this right here because this is where I want the silver solder to be able to wet in from this side this is where I'm going to touch it actually my my paste is a little bit dry but I'll live with it needs a little bit of water but it's a work like slowly with the torch and I think we've got a good joint their hot water dissolves silver solder flux very nicely so that means that a heated ultrasonic is really nice for removing it so now these are soldered on you can see the three degrees of side clearance on this right hand face and then you'll see the three degrees in this direction also on that face and that's all from just grinding that angle on the surface that we silver soldered to so that's that's a a pretty handy trick for getting that clearance all around I've taken a needle file and square new file going in here and and took away the majority of the fill it in this area because this has still has to clear it has to clear all the way around that was the whole point of doing this by tilting the the carbide piece was get clearance full all the way to tangent all the way around this so getting the worst of it off is good because then the glass bead will remove the rest of a glass bead erodes much faster than steel significantly so you can literally clean the the silver solder off where you want to just by blasting it which is what I'm gonna do right now you can see we've got rid of that big fill it and we have plenty of clearance there there's about thirty thousand from the bar surface to the where we touched the bore when it's at full groove depth so it won't be an issue plus we have the three degrees back clearance both ways that's going to be getting away from there we're going to grind this carbide on the back to match this back curvature right here which is the 0.021 three offset that we showed earlier in the beginning very first one we only have to go around to 180 degrees each way but we have to get that to be less than or equal to this back of the bar so I'm going to set that right now so I'm loosening my my Vblock clamp trying to find my hole over here for my thing going to go up to look at that Wow close enough Oh two one four it's not Doug we also have removed the three degree block from here and under here so we are now sitting square to the grinder in both directions because we're doing a cylindrical surface now we're going to install our piece finder slot axial pressure snug the set screws we're going to put diamond wheel one we're going to grind these since I'm grinding a cylindrical surface and now you need to take these in and out I'm going to set a table stop so when I come in here the grinding wheel centerline is right over the punch grinder centerline so I've taken half the width of this which is two point zero three seven five and I hold my my scale against the side of the head here and I just move until I'm visually saying okay I'm darn close if anything you want to error with the punch grinder being a little bit this size Center so if you're sitting on the part and you go that direction you won't cut more you will be coming off the part not climbing into it a little bit so I'm putting the stops on I'm going 105 degrees either side of the flat here so I'm not going to run into where the cutting edge is going to be but I'm going to round off the carbide as far as I need to go to be tangent with the back of the bar I know where my zero is really such a change here on the back remember that oscillate back and forth to take a little bit at a time that's creeping around okay I let my zero down this is youth which of the we all gonna move around these are meals exercise all of it that's critical I'm just trying to keep the Nelson to be real there's a super codsworth if you touch tangent to the deal as a ground to feel there a little bit and that makes sure there's that car buyer in the back it's gonna clear in the port now we just change this one out doing this exact procedure to all of them now we've done there the back relief to make it Mak match the back curvature of the bar on all four now I'm going to bring the part back on center not that needs to be but just so I know that there's I'm not going to get bamboozled because I'm going to do all the other angular cuts on this while we're still in this basically cylindrical grinder the axis is square of both directions we're going to move the shaft back concentric but notice the repeat of this going back on in the same location point O two one four exactly where I set it from the last operation so we're going to loosen our bolt that holds our bead lock snug find our drive here and drive up to zero in the ballpark of zero okay zero and now that this is running true the main chefs running true and we don't really need to be offset for any of the other operations but this won't give us any problems of being off-center not not anticipating that here I have my punch grinder set at 7 degrees here is the orientation of that tool with that 7 degree settings which means that the tool is rolled this way 7 degrees which is giving us our back clearance on this cutting edge here's our location with that stop set we're at the seven degrees setting that we saw in the back but because the access screws here for tightening this we're back here that's why I had to set a stop and couldn't just lock it if those screws were accessible directly without moving and I could have just locked it at the 7 degrees and left it but each time we're gonna have to spin this around take the part out spin it back and tighten the lock I removed the original lock system that was on this punch grinder in redoing the bearing system that's in it so this crank arm I have converted to be the lock I have the pin sticking out here enough to grab and it grabs here you can see this is free to turn now but when I tighten this even just a finger tight like that it grabs the pin and this simultaneously so there's no play and virtually no influence on pushing the spindle axis around so just a pretty easy way to get that thing to lock just so we're clear here I'm grinding this little facet right here which is 83 from 90 leave 7 that's a 7 degree cutting angle touching up the 2 bars that were barely used and I'm just just kissing the seven degree angle there this is where we'll take all the other ones too I think I forgot to mention here is that I am grinding with the cutting direction of the driving you'll go into the cutting edge so is pushing in the defending edge of the cuts not fall off carbide being a brittle fracture mechanics type of cutting means that when your other direction would complete the amount of edge break out that would occur on the cutting edge here I'm going to drive the the 150 you head started on the core pieces if you had I'm going to grinding up down to the same value good body rinse repeat next I'm going to do this 20 degree 90-70 20 degree clearance but I'm going to shrink this up a little bit to only about 5,000 s to help this be able to cut through rap chips or a problem if if you get in here and you get a rapped over this and it goes to try to bite through it it creates huge pressures because it's masking the cutting edge so having this be very small to help penetrate through that is as a help boost our setting to 20 degrees and repositioned our stop touch someone makes things go a lot quicker defeating the critical thing and on this case I can use the there we go responsibly law in this case I can just use the street 15:3 and next thing we have the punch driver together like sixty degrees here I don't need to stop because I can use the street every 15 degree indexing but this grinder uses the 0 to 90 in four quadrant type of divisions which isn't bad but there's four different 60 locations on here so it's really good to mark where you want to get back to when you're moving this thing to get to the screws that hold the part back and forth every part make sure you mark it plunging and then traversing now we need to cut this 45-degree gash through they're giving us the top of the tool and we have the whole vise set up just like it was all I did was release the chuck clean it off put my 45 degree plastic triangle in here because the angle is not critical and we're gonna go ahead and like get lined up to grind that I know I could get a lot of flack for this but in my opinion the best way to tighten the spindle nut on the surface grinder is with an impact wrench obviously you want to use judgment and how tight you do it but keep in mind the impact wrench puts pure torsional impact on this no side loads the bearings it's all inertial and the rotor of the motor of the spindle is what keeps everything from moving so anything you do with a wrench leaning on it whatever tapping on a ranch puts impact loads on the bearing this does not another tip is if possible always buy the biggest wheel that will fit on the grinder I always try to buy eight interests so that gives you another inch radial inch of clearance to clear things when you're working in this zone so this happens to be six inch and I'll get by on this but I always try to buy eight inch wheels super grace of wheels to fit on the grinder to give more space when you get into these tight situations mind the wheel up on the existing cutter existing cutter is really handy for coming back and get your setups real close and you can see here that clearance wise you can say why see why I'm talking about eight inch wheels being a better choice but I'm going to make it here but only because that wheel is spaced out like I mentioned in tool room tips number two I have my stop set here just so I can come back without looking on the back to release my parts to change them I'm taking out the bar my previous bar that already had the geometry on it from the last time I did these now I'm sticking in the new bar [Music] you can see why this is very important to not have two ways to get this part in there and that is accomplished by having this flat large enough that it won't go behind the pin and just skates on it if this was not if this was out sharper it would allow you to get into two positions radically different positions but two hundred eighty degree positions with a different axial location and that could cause serious trouble so that's why I grind just the 45 on here that this flat is big enough that it can't get in the wrong position there's only one place where this will go in and see I'm leaving my saddle zeroed and not moving that at all I'm strictly going to plunge down and I will probably traverse off not actually I will I'm just going to plunge down period because this isn't actually forming the top cutting angle the radius tool will be so we're just going to leave this sit the whole time and just plunge down while I'm plunging down through this I thought I'd do a little commentary on the whole I thought of making these tools instead of buying them nothing wrong with buying tools but doing things like this is a means of developing skills skills that can be used other places if all you do is buy tools all the time and don't learn some of these tool making skills there's going to be times when you're a lot of things you didn't learn along the way that you learn by making tools and obviously production people they can't be fooling around doing this but as a hobbyist or as a one-man shop doing projects like this making tools learning to make them efficiently and probably not necessarily any more expensive if you do multiples like this it's just a good good means of spending your time and making projects to do things that you wouldn't normally get a chance to do so some of that is the point of these things something that you need to develop skills in and have at it and learn along the way until you are happy with what you got with my pleasure in the back rotate up like it's my mistress Ganesha here I'm at the same setting that I was for the - 30 degrees rotating I'm going to Hut very diverse back and forth as I rotate back to now I'm gonna rotate back to the stop this there's that - and then when I went through 30 degrees off from it and they roll down into it that's just a good room for chips to be able to evacuate out this direction I have this vise in this vise upside down just to point out a principle and something to watch out for you see me grabbing vice a vise and vise often but most vices have a golly like this clean through and what that means is the only thing supporting this that's that's less compressible is these ends in-between here this is just these beams doing this so you can grip and you'll think you have a good grip but because this can just flex away in the center to some degree compared to out here and the jaws of the precision vices tend to stay as perpendicular as they can these won't follow that and you're going to get a situation where this vise can slip you have a tighten then it seems tight but you put electric force on it and it scoots and it's because this is only gripping snug up here where it's solid so that's what this jackscrew is for if you use an adjustable parallel you can use any means of getting some support in here such that this doesn't just collapse when you're gripping it in the vise this is just a screw with a nut and this worked against each other keep in mind that this is a very small column and is somewhat compressible also much more compressible than this all this mass out here so I actually spring the spice open maybe 5/10 measuring with calipers to kind of pre-stress it such that when this collapses a little bit it grabs parallel and is good and tight so just an important thing to keep in mind when you're doing vise in vice here i'm have the inner vise sitting flat just temporarily in order to set three degrees lean of this block and if we zoom in here you'll see I have this block in and what I'm doing is I'm that this long one two three block is so that I have access here this this vise is going to get raised up when I do the other angle I have a 3-degree lien which is leaning this way to put the back clearance on the top of this tool here so I just have a parallel in here with the ends or ground square and I'm sitting tight to the bottom and against this wall pushing the block against the three degree block and then snugging up the vise now I'm going to spin this vise 180 because if I ground with this I'd be grinding off the lip which I just got done telling you is not good on carbide if you have any choice so I'm gonna put this vise in 180 when I go to do the other angle you can see I have a 3/8 parallel for the 3 degree block to sit on so that I raise the vise up so that when I gripped us with the three degrees Here I am I'm sitting up above where I can get to it with my wrench when I'm pumping this vise here what I'm feeling for is I'm I'm putting pressure on this vise to physically seat it on this back face if I just let this droop and don't pay any attention it can actually catch corner to corner and be almost tight but not you got to be very careful to make sure that you're actually seated and squared up you see how much I raised up there that is where I need to be so you're actually holding it feeling it tight against the block I'm feeling it tight against the angle block and I'm pumping to make sure that I'm not getting any motion I keep putting pressure on up top here until when I tighten I don't feel any rock then I snug it that's just good practice it's very easy when you get an aspect ratio of grip height to grip distance to get across corners grip that feels good but isn't so here we are ready to grind I have the quarter inch wide wheel on we're grinding the end compound angle which is three degrees lean this way and three degrees lean this way to get both sides this way and on the back clearance I've set my wheel just touching here with the existing tool but since we ground a little teeny bit off of the seating it'll still leave me a little bit to measure my actual tool thickness so we will release this put our wrenches in here in the back and we'll put in another piece like this press down firmly so you know two set screws we're good to go like mm go away I was like reverse grind on this and I'll measure it really measuring about Oh 8 and 7 and the couple tenths take a few thousand said a couple tips off of there and we're quick okay we're ready right here and we're at 85 one thing I need to mention here is that when you're roughing off a lot of carbide here dry it generates a significant amount of heat and you need to be aware that this steel shank is growing from that heat so you need to rough it blow it off let it cool off or use cool it but make sure this is back to room temperature before you start dusting to get your exact width because otherwise this is going to be a lot different than you thought because it grows up into the wheel and then you go to go to your final size and you find that it hit rakul off it's already below where you want it to be so it's got to watch that heat now we're getting ready for the final operation of putting that radiused chip breaker back rake style of groove in the tool I have my holding block I have one two three block in here to be able to get access with the allen wrench I have my one two three block is what I use to square that vertically in the vise raised it up so that this would be I'd be able to indicate on the cylindrical diameter here which is what we need is our reference from the SolidWorks modeling I showed in the beginning where I know relative to this axis of the shaft where the center line needs to be in this direction to line up with the cutting edge so we're going to indicate in down the shaft so I've indical mounted on here and I've lined this up so that we're zero zero down here on the actual shank which is our reference I have a piece of 440c hardened shafting in here to use as a lap on the carbide and I've got it tapped in pushed in until it runs true out here so it doesn't beat beat apart I have some sharpie on the lap and I'm just going to come in here and come until I just nudged the sharpie so I could tell that where I'm touching instead of dial so I have some reference of when I'm actually there we go right there so I'll set my zero there and I'll know where I'm gonna start touching but using some 6 micron slurry here that I'll be brushing on that quick cut that recess in there just meeting up with the existing cutting edge and virtually no edge chipping and nice smooth finish there for the chips to run through now I've cleaned the lap off just wiped it clean from the 6 micron and I have one micron on here that I'm using on the same lap that black you see is carbide I've cleaned all the free braces off and I'm just going to let what is charged in the pin start to work and as that starts to form a smudge the finish gets better and better and better let's see what you got there and as you can see there this mirror that using just what's left and letting it run dry is how you get even finer finish than what the grit gives you when there's free abrasives around so now do that to all them just with a dry lap I'm over on my lap I'm not running the lap by hand by power I'm running it by hand and I'm on the lap and I'm looking for where the debris shows up on the lift to adjust my angle to make sure I'm hitting the original face so I'm doing minor little tweaks there and I'm just spinning this by hand because I don't want to take hardly anything off all I want to do is improve the finish this thing is just putting a little brake edge on the corner to give a little a little strength there yeah that will help that corner keep them breaking down and quickly deliveries left short here's the finished product this was just done by hand to make sure that the coolant flow this way wasn't obstructed get any lips that were hanging here without reducing the actual bond area the silver solder you can see our lapped cylindrical chip breaker there and then we'll get the glint on the right there is our cutting lip that we lapped also there's the chamfer you see the glint there on the chamfer on the 45 on the on the corner break same thing on this side so that's it here's the gang tool setup that these bars go in and there is the groove tool and the boring bar

Channel: ROBRENZ

Views: 135,226

Rating: 4.9081273 out of 5

Keywords:

Id: OjQ5pOkCeW0

Length: 59min 44sec (3584 seconds)

Published: Tue May 19 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/rtphokie]

It's never boring if it's got a groove

!(https://thumbs.gfycat.com/MeagerFlimsyAnophelesmosquito-size_restricted.gif)

[u/Zl10111996]

This video is boring

[u/DrDragun]

This incorrectly tagged as production; it is custom fabrication by a machinist with a great deal of geometry planning custom to this job, building several tools and jigs before the actual piece even starts. Anyone who has done any machining knows how absolutely punishing it is to get one calculation wrong on such a precision piece and the making of the jigs/fixtures to support such jobs, getting all of the fits and surface finish requirements to hit while simultaneously hitting the dimensions on that drawing (which are to 5 decimals...) is absolutely artisan.

[u/Qlinkenstein]

Fascinating to watch. I want to see him cut with them.