RING TYPE PART TECHNIQUE

hello everyone welcome to my shop I'm Robin and what have we here looks like a renzo meter straightness and repeat reading gauge lots of unidirectional carbon fibre some fantasy flexures going on here looks like some kind of loading system for loading the feet for two different directions Wow looks like a half bridge LVDT from a five nine nine nine eighty one ran a sharp lever gauge head like that one maybe some feet being lapped see the reflection there and the feet those are getting matched tight within a few micro inches of each other and feeding into a 599 10:21 electronic indicator at one millionth per division that's a pretty smoke and repeat reading gauge and it'll be able to measure straightness without a reference self calibrating but that's not what this video is about sorry this video is going to be on a much more boring topic and that is a method of making parts like this out of plastic that have thin cross sections very difficult to be able to grip and hold just not your typical part I'm going to show you a very easy method to make these that makes what could be a real nightmare into something that's relatively easy these pieces are made out of PE T which is similar in machining to Delrin I actually like a little bit better it's a sort of a little harder crisper version of Delrin and machines very nicely similar but it doesn't have the the smell that Delrin can have if if you're cutting tools get warm and and generate some I think it's sort of like a formaldehyde smell P et doesn't have that at all but mechanical properties wise P ETS in same general ballpark and same general price range so if you've never experimented with PE T you should give it a try it's a very nice machine plastic so this method is to chuck a whole bar long as as you can reasonably handle in this case I cut a 12 inch length of this material in half and grabbed the full six inch length and you'll see me hanging it out of the Chuck and doing this and it's a situation where I use the programmable digital readout to do a pitch of these I basically take the full length of the part pick out a groove tool that I'm going to use to part in between them and I'll turn the OD contour on all of them with the program where it steps down and does a repeat of these all the way down and then I go in and groove in between them and then I use a groove tool and a stray painting style groove tool and come in and cut underneath these and part them off complete and in the process every time there's an opportunity to be able to chamfer edges or whatever while it's rotating I'll do that and then finally we'll take these pieces and push them onto a little arbor just manually and hand chamfer the last edge that wasn't accessible on each of them with a with a ceramic scraper so that's the general technique and if we look at this particular part this thing isn't really anything crazy there's not super tight tolerances but it's a scrawny it's a scrawny Park these things are roughly three inches in diameter barely an eighth wall here but they've got a little contour here they've got a little bevel 15 degrees and a nose and basically the turning tool does the whole distance comes out turns this and then I you just I go past and use the back of the tool the angle on the tool to do the chain ever and then carry on and do each one after that and then grew tool as you'll see in the video so that's the technique and that's what all of the footage in this video is on but this technique can be applied to other things that I make in a very similar fashion and here I have a seal ring that I do all these parts are parts that I designed I designed them the Machine the machine tool piece that these go on and this is a face seal and has a groove and we'll show you the actual cross section of this this is very very small you'll see here the dimensions dimension wise this thing is only like 86,000 wide here has a groove in here that it gets a piece of Viton oring stock to load it and these I actually changed the 60 on the drawing I changed them to 45 and so this part is really tiny really thin wall thicknesses and everything would really be a nightmare to do any other method and in this particular case I use a technique where I've got where I was brainstorming how to do these I have a little tool right here and carbide that you can see that has this on and I come in between these with this carbide tool and plunge down in between clean the groove out and that will come down in a certain distance move over clean that wall and generate this short corner move over do the same thing here move over go down like that and I'll do all that before this groove is in because I need support that the plastic doesn't flex even though these tools are very sharp you can still get some push and you get chip we rapping and all kinds of things so this has done at a particular pitch you'll see I've got that point one seven seven there and that's the pitch of these that I do so I'll just took a piece of four inch these are like four inches in diameter let's take a piece of 4-inch material in the Chuck hanging out a lot probably good eight inches worth and I'll literally go down and do each of these operations with a program on the programmable digital readout where I'll go in and do of this pattern but move over all I wanna do that particular feature all the way down obviously in first operation was to turn the OD to the right diameter and then I'll come back do the groove in the center with another groove tool that does this groove after these this groove is done and then I'll come underneath and I'll use the same technique you're going to see where I trade use a facial tray painting tool to come in and cut underneath these and release the finished part so that's another part that I do that technique on and another one is an actual lip seal here and this this this style right here this is up on the opposite side of where I actually turn it but I use a tool like this and this is this back edge here goes and it does the actual underside here it comes in and I'll flip the tool upside down it comes in and does that and then this top edge does the other actually I'm gonna come down to the where have the small cross section here and show you what what I'm talking about here so this tool comes in and actually turns this gets rid of all the excess material you notice this is where this can pass the material that's left come in here programmatically come in bump in to to form that entire angle come out come over go in and it does that whole groove shape right there come off the OD has already been turned then I just do a chamfer down the whole step whole stack of them the chamfer is already in there and then just part it off and then move down to the next one so this this operation here keeps turning the center bar down to an new diameter and you're left with a big chunk of stock that's still usable you're only using this outer perimeter of the of the stock that's whatever radial thickness you can get this all done in so just think of this technique and obviously without a programmable digital readout it's going to be more cumbersome and mice a programmable digital readout I'm talking about an NDE 780 or 80 heightened high nor the old PT 855 is the one that you've seen me use just a fantastic readout and allows you to do stuff on a manual a that just wouldn't be that convenient so just wanted to give you a background on what what this is all about you're gonna see all the techniques on here in the particular case of this video I'm gonna show you the other operations involved in putting the holes three holes in this this is actually a cage that holds three ball bearings in place on a actuator and you'll get to see that so let's get on with the rest of the video here I'm cleaning off the spindle nose of the Harding blowing out the key wiping it off make sure it's absolutely clean looking at the Chuck making sure I know where the pin is it's already been cleaned putting it on gently not smacking it to the back just gently putting it in putting the lock in the spindle and then just a gentle nudge to tighten it up in the direction it's going to get loaded putting a piece in the six draw Chuck can't beat the six jaw for holding onto things well getting indicator don't really need to indicate this I don't even know why I put this in the video but you can see indicating in just not getting in a little bit closer than it was but totally unnecessary because the whole OD is being turned here justing Center Heights of the tools you'll notice I have a special wrench that fits into the threaded clamp collars replaced all my tool holders with those clamp collars makes adjusting Center Heights really nice threads have been lapped on the set screws so that there's a nice even uniform drag just setting the height there's the tray painting tool the face tree paint painting tool that will go in and cut the parts off of the main body and just setting that height to this scale facing off the part setting z0 of my main turning tool that does the OD and the shape turning a diameter so that I can set my x-value measure it with the calipers punch that into the digital for that particular tool offset so it knows exactly where it's cut groov tool now settings II touching the face turning an OD with it also just set the X diameter punching that into the digital for that tool number measuring the tool with here on that tray painting tool to add two times that width to the diameter that it turns because I'm driving the ID cut of that here you can see the the back relief on the tray painting tool in both directions so that it doesn't rub only cuts on the face leaves no space there and touch touching the cutting the OD with that and then setting it with the calipers entering that into the digital now I'm actually running the program with the OD turning tool going through the sequence on the positive 855 Ida nine and that allows me to follow exact pattern do exact moves and you'll see what I'm doing on the actual readout here shortly right there's the screen you can see the step numbers up on top and tell us what that step is actually telling me to do and I just follow along you'll see the position indicator bar at the bottom you'll see on the bottom there we'll see how that comes up in the little box that really lets you nail these things that at high speed as you're doing these and this isn't a super precise part so you see I'm not worried about hitting things dead nuts on here the readouts and 50-million so on diameter and on Z position so it's pretty pretty fine increments you're seeing there and this thing is hard to video without the glare on there but that's the best shot I could get so you just following along doing each individual move and it's just really nice and it will hold 20 twenty different programs and there's looping in here I'm using incremental moves to being able to do these patterns on the on the OD and this was just the pattern for the actual OD turning hearing the same pattern range but this is with the groove tool and we're going in and doing the incremental moves you're seeing the readout of deposit it there where I'm just going in and doing the actual axial position and on X to get below a certain amount and back out on excellent move and Z again and yeah this is very very quick and this is also one of the reasons that you need the rigid tool post because you can't have these things moving around as you're changing tools you need it to be very accurate I'll be handy burying these that's just a exactly Oh number eleven blade with the edges ground square and just doing a nice scrape but a slow speed I'm deburring all the edges while it's easy to do here with the with the parts spinning and I'll show you here when we get to the end here I'll show you a little close-up of what the blade looks like just needs a dead sharp square edge cut and then this is for oh steel wool which does an excellent job of removing the fur that you can get on plants now we're using the face tray painting tool to go in and I do a little bit so I can chamfer the edge and then it'll go in and cut all the way through and this is how we get to take these parts off in in basically complete and still end up with all this material left in the center and we also are not we'd have very basically no Chuck loss Chuck grabbing material loss on these parts because you'll see we're going to end up turning this around and grabbing it on that other diameter and the only loss we have here is the actual width of the parting tool that we use to go between the pieces now we're just moving back doing the pieces all the way back to the last piece that it was grabbing here this was a six inch long piece that was hanging out there and I'm only showing doing one half but I'll repeat this on the second six inch long piece on the other half so they're all parts are flipping the piece around we're having it again and I'll put the turning tool back in now I'm going to do a datum shift on the digital which shifts all of the tools with it so it's kind of like a G 54 G 55 type thing on a CNC where I can move all the tools relative to each other down to the new position and then face this off and all my other tools that I've been dropping on and off here are all still in sync in Z and obviously in the X hasn't changed so just doing my facing cut there on the end and then we'll go back just run the same program again that's doing the Odie's and that program basically loops forever the way I wrote the program it wouldn't matter how many pieces I had it just keeps incrementally going down with a little loop in the program to do the OD turning on there so now we're going to do the same grooving pattern like we did before and basically we're just completing all the parts possible on this first blank popping off the Rings doing the chamfer grooving in and that's the way it works and like I showed in the beginning there's all different types of parts that this method will work on and you're left with a real nice piece of valuable material there in the end instead of dis total loss and now I'm putting on and I'm just using a Noga ceramic blade and that plug is actually a fixture I use to do the three-ball holes that go in this which we'll see later and I just push them on there gently to be able to chamfer the one edge that was where it was the tray painting tool cut so I have my harding indexer in here one thing I did long ago was to grind the flats on both sides of this that are aligned with the key and perpendicular to the bottom this just makes the setup so much quicker I just hate taking vices off I basically never take them off I work my way around it and so yeah this really helps bass backing plate bolded on here that lets me grab this thing vertically over in the DPM dps got a huge amount of z-axis travel so I can stick this thing in device put a chuck one here and still have plenty of room to drill here I'm indicating in the centerline of the indexing head to be aligned with the centerline of the spindle so I've got a zero back here I'm actually indicating this is tapered but that doesn't keep you from getting accurate Center so I'm zeroed back there and now if you watch the in the needle will climb as is climbing up over the corner and you do this you have to make sure you're not too far engaged where that causes you to peg the indicator and bump your setting so you can see there we got the same zero see the climb right there but it's well within the stroke of the indicator that's the one thing going to watch for the other thing is it's not actually important for this but you also typically want to find your peak vertically see right on the the peak of your reading there but it's actually not essential for aligning in this direction I'm asking the holes for my three hole index on this so just indexing until I get to the three location leave that one out because I had that one set I was doing I believe twelve before with this so I've got a cranky and all the sets from a skiing set screws from the back here to get to where we're only doing the three divisions which is what we need today's now zero so you got zero three three back to zero we're good to go I'm out to Chuck one here got our four degree nose nice and clean feeling here for any chips dirt whatever fine our index pin up slide on I always like to go the normal lathe direction too so I knew which way to go to loosen it because you can go on either direction that's it so these fit a little more snug than before so I wasn't able to pull that off with my fingers so I added flats on the back of the Chuck here that line up with the Vice Joe so I can just give this a pop once I'm done [Music] so as you saw there that wasn't much help but here's one of the beauties of the taper lock nose I can take this thing out right now and I put this over right and get ahead a little better I can take this off this is about 5000 so Versailles I don't know whether it's from the part swelling from moisture absorption from a long time or what but I'm going to just pop this off go over the lathe trim this down and bring it back that's one of the beauties of the taper lock system here I'm not losing the thing back at the lady in the checkout drop this one is that turning tool in I don't have to measure because I know what this tool is going to turn because of the full post system fit my tool 12x 2.77 for dinner [Music] simple as that pop this off back on the mill on the indexer snug this a little bit make sure our index is still going here it doesn't have to be super precise it'll just know a little bit bigger I just don't want to turn it into Swiss cheese now oh yeah that's better more like what we [Music] using an exacto knife with just the back edge ground off square to act as a scraper so I'm using this actual back edge this square corner for my for my scraping so on these I'm just going around and doing a full loop to do the OD tough to keep this in camera while I'm doing this taking a full lap around these I think I did that one already then on the inside I go half and half I go half one around all three and flip it that's it well I hope you found something useful we're interesting in that video if you did please subscribe share comment thumbs up tell your friends and please come back next time when I probably will be covering some more details on the renzo meter that name came from a suggestion on instagram for one of the followers and i kind of stuck and the rapido straight o meter has too many negative connotations possible and trademark and name problems involved so that's why we moved away from the repeat of straight a meter to the Rennes Rennes a meter so hope to see you next time

Channel: ROBRENZ

Views: 29,279

Rating: 4.9821029 out of 5

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Id: CP0bIRpUpK4

Length: 27min 33sec (1653 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 18 2018