Single Point Cast Iron Boring Tool

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Bangkok stool sometime so tonight we got a little short episode we're gonna grind a car bike tool bit and we're helping out a longtime viewer down in Los Angeles bill del Omega and he's boring some motorcycle cylinders on his milling machine and have a little bit of tool trouble so we're gonna we're going to demonstrate grinding a tool for a boring head this would be a basically a single point tool that fits in a boring bargain a boring head for the milling machine so well grind will grind the tool and I got to change the wheel I on the on the bench grinder and put a silicon carbide wheel on it and I have aluminum oxide wheels on it right now so we'll swap those out will grind it bit and then if we have enough time we'll do is maybe do a test cutter too so I think that's it let's suit up and cruise over to the grinder and do a little tool grinding okay so here's here's a tool we're gonna mess around with but what I want to show first is how it has to be relieved a little bit so to do that I think I'm just gonna draw a circle here that hopefully I can draw a dark enough yeah okay that's no problem you guys can see that my yellow chicken scratch paper okay so this is simulating a cylindrical bore that we're boring down into the paper here right well this is our tool here and our tools contacting that let's see let me yeah I'm gonna rotate it this way so you guys can see better so actually this works good because we have a center line here right okay so if the tools sitting like that right what we have to do is this is our cutting edge here so we're sweeping in that direction okay so we're sweeping in that direction so everything behind this edge has to be relieved okay in a curve that's smaller in radius than that curve okay then the curve that we're boring so if it if it fits small as you increment out this way okay then you totally have clearance right so what we're gonna do is grind that back like so okay away from that cutting edge but no more than we need to do you don't want to take it back to there or something like that right you just want enough to clear this curvature here right that's equal to the thickness of the tool right so normally we we bring a little bit more we bring it a little bit more back okay all right and then the this surface here that's resting on my finger here it needs to be tipped this way just slightly one or two degrees something like that in this case okay so that's what we're gonna go grind and let's go granted okay so we're here on the little bench grinder and we're gonna we're gonna change this wheel and replace it with this guy here and this is an aluminum oxide wheel and this is a silicon carbide wheel so we're going to be grinding some some tungsten carbide here and we're gonna use that instead of the aluminum oxide so just gonna pop this off my my diamond super water wrench there this is the left-handed thread side here now these these flanges fit pretty closely so I wiggle it up here suppose I should run a reamer through those I don't think I need that this one has a large hole in it so set that aside of course this one's weighs down here see that little screwdriver comes in handy for all kinds of stuff okay so this one already has a half-inch hole in it what I want to do first is just kind of dink it to make sure so it's kind of it's got a good ring to it it's got a ding you know and we're what we don't want to hear is a thud or anything like that it's real important to have the paper on here two of those help the traction of the wheel against the flanges so okay now what I like to do is put a reference mark on these I've put a reference mark on both wheels to start with so maybe at the three o'clock position here we'll put a little mark and then I'll fire it I'll put it all back to you and I'll fire it up and what I'm looking for is in out of balance condition and what the mark does and I'm just going to go ahead and do it here in a sec with the mark does is this gives me a reference point where where I started okay so that's this finger tight right now so what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna put a reference mark there and hopefully I'll be able to see and a reference mark on on this opposite wheel over here you see that yeah okay you can see that so what I'll do is I'll run it and if I'm lucky and sometimes I'm lucky I'm gonna suck that up now these don't need to be like tight here you don't have to grok on these you know I'm just one finger kind of thing put this back up and I leave these snug that way I could just move them when when I want to you know they don't move under operation but I could pull them out of the way and I don't have to use a tool so with these marks what I'll do is I'll fire it up here in a sec I'm gonna stand out of the out of this plane of this wheel when I first initially started and then I'll be listening and feeling for vibration if vibrates I'll stop it then I'll clock this say 90 degrees something like that in relation to the other wheel okay and then until I find most of the time you can find the spot that's just smooth as silk so let's let's go ahead and fire this up see how it behaves well I don't think I'm gonna improve on that pretty good there put it this way it's not worth going after here okay so we're gonna let that spin down I'll put the cover back on so eat dust while I'm drying in here and then we're gonna grind this little boring cool okay so we're all set here and we're gonna do a little grinding on this and we're gonna make a boring tool that sits at this angle here so we just have to get actually I probably have to flatten that angle a little bit and then relieve behind the cutting edge a little bit so let's gonna give this a quick dress with a this is a Norton nor bide it's a boron nitride dressing stick okay so I think I'm gonna change this angle a little bit flatten it out so now with carbide you don't want to dunk it in water because you can shock the carbide and chip the edge or crack it and you can't even see it so you kind of have to let the heat go into the shank and cool off a little bit before you before you dip it even if you dip it so what I'm looking at now is the the relief angle there I don't need much it looks like I got maybe one or two degrees in the bottom and this is the bottom edge it's going to be sweeping around so I need clearance underneath it that's going up as it comes away from the leading edge there so now this upper edge here I'm going to make it a little more vertical to make this edge really strong okay I look pretty good it's close to 90 let's zoom you let me rephrase that yeah it's a little it's a little more acute than ninety I think you can see that okay alright so now we're gonna we're gonna relieve behind the cutting edge a little bit things kind of warm I am gonna cool it off but it's had a chance that the cool below the critical temperature so now I can do something actually I'm grinding steel so I think I'm gonna jump over on this other side real quick and it what I'm going to do is just relieve some of that steel behind that edge then I'll relieve the carbide okay so that's all I was doing just for leaving that so you make sure you can see that yeah so this tool cuts in a circle right so this has to be a smaller circle than the circle that we're boring right okay so that looks pretty good but I still got to do something with that carbide I got to bring that back a little bit looking pretty good I like that okay so now I'm gonna I want to I'm going to put a little chip breaker in that edge it is cast iron but it still benefits from a chip breaker and we'll demonstrate that too so the chip breaker is going to go this is a this is the edge double check mr. wizard yeah okay you can see that this is the edge that's down so our chip breaker will be along that edge like that okay now to do that I'm going to dress a little bit I want a nice sharp corner on the wheel all right and then I'm gonna grind my fingernails a little bit I'm gonna come up on the wheel like this basically I'm gonna line that edge and then I'm going to put a small groove in that that's what I'm gonna do I'm not gonna talk when I do it see make sure you guys can see that spot there so I'll sand my finger yeah okay you can see the wheels breaking down real fast there I may have to hop over on the other side there but see if we get it done I should have been a little more aggressive probably initially let me much all right that's probably okay get the loot yep and we're gonna be clients and then I'm gonna I'm gonna put a very small radius on the tip but I think I'm just gonna do that with a diamond a hand diamond home so I think that tool is ready to try okay so I think we're ready here I got a little diamond this is a easy lap diamond hone I'm gonna hone a little radius on that tip a little bigger than looks pretty good and I can't like that tool a little more in there hmm so now I kind of screwed up here a little bit this bar it actually holds a three a stool and this one's 5/16 that was kind of for bills benefits so and this angle isn't quite this is still gonna work but we're just going to use it like this and you know what I'm just gonna go for it let's just see if it works it's pushed off-center just slightly but I don't think that's gonna make much difference here for this little demo I'm gonna hang it out a little farther snug that up nicely oops we miss enough clothes okay so that's pretty good all right now I get a chunky cast-iron here we're just this is all I had for cast iron that I felt like cutting so we're just gonna use that as our victim here hang it off the end looks pretty good there all right icing those nice and slow all right it's like 200 rpm it's 2:40 alright and feed ray is three and a half thousand per rep so do one thing here make sure I'm okay okay I'm just getting a double check make sure you get you know what that is a crummy camera let me let me change the camera angle a little bit so you guys can see better all right that looks better so let's take a little bite out of this let's see what happens here we go ahead and lock the table here and I'm engaged and let's go ahead and feed a little bit see what happens vice is tight coming down just start dinking any second now I'm gonna catch some chips here so you guys can see them well I'll show the chips in a second here let's just do a cut that's an interrupted cut to the chips look pretty good they got a little pearl to them what I want to see is the the finish on that once we get through and then just for reference here's the one I took out of it that would have worked also and this one just has a an angle closer to 90 degrees to the to the bore axis which is what you want for for fine boring maybe we'll go back and we'll take a bigger cut too this is kind of boring huh yeah and sometimes that the the brake is on too hard it kicks the feet out okay so here's a little trick guys so I'm going to stop it here now let's just you know these things rotate eccentrically alright I'm gonna put it in neutral for a sec so I have a couple of choices I can I can lift it up here okay but there's a possibility that I'm gonna drag that tool over that work okay and with a carbide tool it's really easy to chip it on the back stroke okay so you know if you have a dro or some indicators set up what you can do is back it away from your freshly cut surface a little bit then back it up that way you don't drag that tool tip over that surface and risk chipping that edge that you just spend all that time grinding okay so and you know you generally you can do that in a bore because you're rotating eccentrically right so you can just move off axis a little bit come out be sure to come back and then do it in that way you won't dink your tool now the other way around that is to feed up but a lot of times the tool geometry doesn't lend itself to that because it's a it's a fret a more fragile edge I hope that makes sense so all right so let's let's evaluate our cut here and it feels pretty smooth to me let's see what else do we want to try with that bigger cut I don't know let's look at some chips let me change the camera all right well here's some of the chips from that last cut and you can see they're you know they're little curls there right okay other pretty happy chips as opposed to mean chips right okay and then let me see if I can zoom in on the on the cut that we just did as well all right so there's there's our cut surface that we just did there okay and it's pretty smooth you know you can get it smoother that was a three and a half thousand or three and a half yeah three and a half thousand spur Rev feed rate which is fairly fast but if we you know we can slow it down too and get a finer feed rate okay okay and last but not least here's the tool in the holder here that we just did and like I said the the angle on the bottom isn't optimal for reduced chatter so so it's got a little lead angle here like so right so if you're having chatter problems what you want to do is bring this angle this way closer to 90 degrees to your your bore axis like that okay and that reduces chatter and this one was kind of set up that way for this angle hope come on goober okay this one was set up a little bit better for that I don't think we need to test that but anyway there it is cast iron boring sorry I don't have a cylindrical hole to do but I think you guys get the get the message there get the point you
Info
Channel: oxtoolco
Views: 39,245
Rating: 4.944056 out of 5
Keywords: Tool Grinding, Cast Iron boring, Criterion boring head, Milling machine, Carbide, Brazed carbide tool, Chipbreaker, Silicon Carbide, Norbide, Norton Abrasive, Tom Lipton, Oxtool, Nothing too strong ever broke, Tool (Taxonomy Subject)
Id: A0oVGx6vgv0
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 23min 16sec (1396 seconds)
Published: Wed Jun 11 2014
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