Stainless Impeller Repair Part 1

[Music] all right guys we're getting ready to start our next job here in the shop and what we have is the stainless steel impeller and this belongs to a viewer of my name jeff he had contacted me and sent me a picture of this and said that this is a this is an impeller that they use for their pumps and this one accidentally got dropped and i've got it marked right here with the two black marks showing where it dropped and and where it actually hit it so this being the uh the seal ring here it actually bent this so it's got it thrown out of you know out of uh out of balance and now it's not you don't have a true uh seal surface there anymore as well but anyway he had jeff sent me some pictures of this and uh showed it to me asked asking me would this be something that i would be interested in possibly fixing for them so that they don't have to just absolutely scrap it he already replaced it uh this is a replaceable part that they buy and he says if i'm able to fix this then he would love to bail to put it on the part shelf and has as a backup spare instead of just scrapping it and just being out the complete cost of these because these are pretty expensive to uh to buy so i told him yes i would like to see about getting it fixed for him so send it on and that's what we're gonna do so my plan of attack is to we're gonna go over to the welding positioner and we'll use our tig welder and we're going to come in here and we're just going to build this up we're just going to make some passes through this whole area that's why i kind of marked in here about you know where it needs to start and stop and we'll build this up i think one row of beads through here maybe two right along the edge should be enough and we'll get this thing built up and then we'll go to the lathe and what we're gonna have to do is machine a mandrel for this to fit on and that's what this material right here is this little piece of shaft stock that you know i've salvaged it and used it a couple times for something else but what we'll do is we'll chuck this in the four jaw chuck and the monarch and then we will machine this in here so that it has a really really close fit on this bore hopefully i can take it just kind of you know twist it up on there so it has no uh no clearance over the shaft so it's got a nice true fit on the bore all right it'll come out this side we'll have some threads machined on there and we'll use this three quarter tin flange nut to pull it up tight onto the mandrel all right so that's what we'll do for the lathe mandrel right there now i've got this mandrel here as well this is one of the oldies that uh you know belonged to my dad we can use this mandrel here to hold it in the welded positioner this this end's already 7 8 that's what our bore is is a standard 7 8 4. all right and then this one goes down there like that and you can just tighten it up with your with your hand but you see you have no way to reach in there really to tighten it up but we will just use this one in the welding positioner chuck it right there and use the uh positioner to go in there and rotate it and put a nice bead across there and fill this up and then we'll go to the lathe and and turn it once we're in the lathe we'll probably touch this bottom area up here too trim it just a little bit kind of you know bring the uh the radius back in there the way it should be the final step he asked me if i would go ahead and turn this od down to five and a half inches so we're going to turn that down right now it's seven inches so we need to take an inch and a half off the od so apparently he's going to want to if you know if this works out he wants to have it as a spare for maybe a different size pump that he's got in there all right so let's go ahead and go get our welder set up and start doing our our tig welding there before i get started doing the welding i want to go ahead and swap out this flow meter this is the flow meter that actually came with the everlast i have the everlast power tig 200 dv and this was the stock flow meter i haven't trusted this thing ever since i got it i just don't know if it's uh if it's accurate so i went ahead and i've got a different flow meter i want to install and i'll show you that here in just a second i'm going to go ahead and start taking this guy off and i i was told by several people whenever i got this and hooked it up to uh not rely on these go ahead and swap these things out so that's what i have done and actually we are going to a a dual a dual flow meter system for this thing here so i'll actually have uh two argon lines because what i plan on doing is hooking up an aragon i'm sorry not air gun argon argon line over to my heat treating oven so we'll have we'll have a dual flow flow meter here one's feeding the machine and then one will be available to uh run the heat treating oven whenever whenever it's needed as well so let's go over there and i'll show you the new one that we're going to use here so this is the the new dual argon flow meter right here this is a spark brand so i had uh reached out to jody collier a weld monger and asked him what what he offered as far as the the dual flow meters and this is what he carries now over on his on his website worldmonger.com great guy to know awesome friend and he carries a lot of really good product for the welding industry over on his website so be sure to check him out so this is the unit right here so that's just it we'll just have you know the ability to have two lines connected to this thing at all times so there's the fitting with the barb these will screw onto there another one in here that's it so go get it installed now looks like i need to turn my bottle actually turn it 90 degrees so that the gauge would be facing that way all right we went ahead and just turned it 90 degrees and go ahead and get the bar fittings here snugged up in there get our gas line tightened up on the barb fitting here this plastic hook that you see right behind it this guy right here this is the hell hook that's something else that's over there on jody's website as well it's just a nice little helpful tool goes right on the bottles here you can hang your aprons your welding hoods your welding caps whatever you want on there works out pretty nice all right so let's go ahead and let's give it a try the machine on [Music] [Music] seems to be working pretty good that sounds a lot better than what that original one does yeah seems to be working good all right we've got the impeller set up here in the positioner i've got the variable speed foot pedal so i'll be utilizing the variable speed uh for the rotational speed that i need right there i'm going to be running this is the uh 308 l filler rods that we're going to be using this is a 304 stainless steel impeller and i think we were ready to go i did a couple little tests there i've got to set 65 amp right now and i'll adjust it if i need to you know bump it up a little bit and we got our new armrest right here that should make this a little bit easier now when we're using our our positioner want to take a look at this and see how it's doing that's looking pretty good keep her going i'm trying not to run it too hot and cause it to start falling through the other side there all right that's looking pretty good right about there should be a good start stop i'll have to hit that edge right on the corner and build that corner up just a little bit more but we're making progress go ahead and back it up [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] here's a little tighter shot of the build up there that we just did i'm not through yet i need to go ahead and get this front corner i'm afraid if i do it in this position right here it's going to try to undercut a little bit more so what i'm going to go ahead and do is uh rotate or flip the uh the weld position up in a 90 degree position and we'll uh just weld it up on the top do a flat weld on that edge right there we've got it sitting in a really nice position there i think that i can get in here and just easily fill that corner in just like it's just where it's at right there probably won't even rotate probably just uh just going around by hand there's the other side something about like that right there that looks pretty good i think that's going to work right there be able to face that out clean corner up all right here's you a little better look at the uh the impeller it's it's cooled down nicely so a little bit a little bit tighter shot of the the build up that we did it didn't turn out too bad so hopefully that's going to clean up good but uh during the turning process if it looks like that we're not going to like some of these edges are low right right on each side i think i built it up plenty there but if it ends up being low there we'll just go back to the positioner and uh add a little bit more weld in there so get it turned faced off and hopefully that's going to turn out good there and of course we got to turn our od down to five and a half inches also so we'll go on down to the monarch lathe we'll get this piece chucked up and go ahead and machine our mandrel to hold this piece let's start getting our impeller fixture machined so [Music] [Applause] [Music] me [Music] [Music] i'm going to use a telescoping gauge and a mic and we'll measure the bore nominal size is 7 8 but i want to go ahead and turn our fit so that we're very close i want it to be a slip fit but sort of a uh very very close slip fit so it looks like we got that at we're measuring it about 876 and a half according to this measurement here 8.76 and five five tenths do it one more time always do it at least twice to verify it when you do this try not to look at your mic and don't worry about what it's saying just look at your fit right here and you want to get the touch get the feel right get it to where it just just touches as it's going through their interference so 876 and 5. so same measurement 876 and a half is what this is so we'll shoot for that and try to make it maybe a couple tenths under that so it would be we want it to where it'll kind of you know wiggle and slide up on there and then uh once we get it turned we'll have it threaded so that we can use this is a three-quarter tan flange nut we'll have it where it pulls it up there against the shoulder okay so we're down to about 45 thousandths to bring it to size so this is a 25 000 and we're running max speed on the monarch 700 rpm [Music] and as i said before when you're trying to hit your finished size once you get down to you know like within 50 thousands just try to split it equally between two cuts and you do it right it usually lands right on what you want it to uh to land on so after this cut here i'll measure it and i'll try to finish it out to 0.877 and then i can file it emery it to the fit that we want for the impeller and then after this last cut i'll go ahead and face that shoulder so we got a good clean square shoulder there shaft is not hot at all [Music] go ahead and get a measurement with our mic and see where we're at so we're at 901 all right so that'll be 25 minus 1 so 24 so we're looking at 24 thousandths to bring it to 0.877 is what we want right there okay go ahead and dial in 24 on the dial here that's 10 20. 4. what i'll do since this is going to be an undercut for threads what i can do is stop it right here back off and verify it now you can't always do this but when you've got to turn the shaft down on the end you can go ahead and stop it and check it and if you're undersized it's just a quick way to correct it so we are at 877 and a half so that'll work right there [Music] a good mill smooth file will bring that right to size within a just a few strokes on there it'll clean it up and notice i pull the coolant back just a little bit it's helping to keep it from swinging off of the uh work piece and the chuck as we get closer to it just enough to keep that carbide nice and cool come into our shoulder i got a dial indicator over here i'm going in ten thousands [Music] all right there we go [Music] good clean face cut there so now we just we'll set a zero here and then we're going to turn it down to a three quarter do an undercut there thread relief and then single point thread it [Applause] let's get our inner undercut in there and go 130 thousandths that's our double depth of our 10 pitch thread i love using the radius tool for this makes a nice strong joint there plus it looks nice too and just come in until that corner blend blends together just like that come back to this side right here and then wide it out just a little bit and then just back it out with the [Music] compound all right now we'll just put a chamfer here and here we'll be ready to thread all right our threading tool we're going to use is our tetra mini cut this is a four corner stand up style insert that i've been using and so far it has been working excellent i haven't had any issues with it okay we're touched off we got a zero on the cross slide we use a compound infeed here let's just make a scratch pass and test it [Music] got our pitch gauge set to the uh 10 pitch leaf there because we're cutting a standard three quarter tin that is right so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so all right we finally got that fit that we like that machinist fit on the thread so okay the only thing left is we need to go ahead and get our fit filed and polished down to size just giving it a check again we don't have much so use a nice mill smooth file to do that [Music] very gently [Music] give it a few licks and then go ahead and mic it because as soon as you hit it you're uh taking some high spots off the tool marks there and you may take it down yes i mean we're we're pretty close right there i'm gonna go ahead and hit it a couple more licks right there let's get the dust the dust off of it let me grab the impeller and we'll check it [Music] pretty close we gotta get it down a little bit more i just do that to get the dust off of it the filings off of it this is going to be a close fit right here [Music] it is not wanting to go i got an idea i think what i need to do come on i need to check that keyway and make sure there's not a burr in there on that keyway that's causing it from going on there so let me check that and we'll uh keep continuing with our fit okay after some filing we've finally got her to fit good and i got to use just a little bit of lubricant on there i'm putting some of this knocker loose on there just a little bit because it did try to gall on me one time and anytime you're fitting like this you're fitting to get stuck just spray a little lubricant on there and it'll usually work itself loose there we go just like that see we got a good a good fit and i'm going to go ahead and put a drop on the threads here too [Music] i'm not going to tighten this up yet i just want to see how how it looks like it's going to run [Music] that's pretty crazy that uh that seal ring is not it's not machine true with the board it is not machine true it may not may not fix it what we're doing there i'm gonna keep scratching my head about this and see what we're gonna do here [Music] all right so let me run it for you this way so you can see what i'm talking about it looks like that the step that's machined back there against the face is true this looks like it's true but this is not that is running out it's not because of the bend i don't think it was machine true i just don't think it's warped that bad it looks like it's just not machine true so i'm thinking what we're going to end up having to do to get this repaired correctly is we can go ahead and turn this and turn it down and what we can do is take it about go ahead and get it turned down to where it's around we'll measure this wall thickness there we'll go ahead and take about half of it machine that down about half thickness and then we'll have to get a piece of stainless tubing and machine a sleeve and heat shrink a sleeve on there and then machine the sleeve back to size i think that's going to be about the only way that we can fix that right there one of the proper ways to fix it i don't know if i need to spray that with the buildup but anyway i'll bring you guys back when i decide what i'm going to do here [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 158,409

Rating: 4.9412808 out of 5

Keywords: Abom79, stainless steel, impeller, stainless impeller, impeller repair, tig welding, welding, stainless big welding, welding positioned, welding positioner, Everlast welder, ac precision, machine shop, shop, repair work, industrial repair, water pump

Id: rn7MWSjXBpU

Length: 34min 6sec (2046 seconds)

Published: Sat May 29 2021