SNS 288 Machining an 18 Inch Straight Edge

[Music] I just finished machining the two Qingwei straight edges and while I've got the shaper set up I'm gonna go ahead and get this this new 18 inch straight edge machines and get it finished up so this right here was given to me by Gary cute he's he's got the website and the YouTube channel tools for machines and he donated this to the to the shop here and he offers these up for sale he's got this this 18 inch and he's also got a 36 inch and he's got a vast array of other cast iron type machine tool accessories over here on his website that one can purchase and finish the machining themselves so let's go ahead and set this up I'm going to do this in the same manner as I did the King way straight edges and this is a great project for a shaper this is the kind of stuff that I want to do in a shaper I know that I've got a lot of guys wanting to see like the knt mill do some stuff but I want other projects you know suited for for the mill this is stuff that's great greatly done on on its shape or especially with being cast iron you know but anyway we're gonna go set it up now and start getting this thing machined in because when I go to the scraping class in January I want to take all three of these and hopefully when I'm done with that class all three of these will be scraped in and ready to use for inspection and machine tool reconditioning and rebuilding so we're going to start with cutting angles since I've already got the tool head set for that and then once we get the angle cut then we'll finish all these or the other two sides so what I'm going to do I've already got all this cleaned out wiped out good I got these two parallels that we're gonna set in here and what I'm trying to do is just kind of bring the height of the the straightedge up some so it's not so close to the vise right here and we're also going to position it as far out to this end of the vices I can was still you know hold them good so where this can be clamping directly on this support rib right here that's what that's where it gets its name from the you know the Camelback name because of this big hump and I did measure it with just my calipers and it seems to be pretty consistent within about five thousandths plus or minus there so you see if they got my sandpaper in there that provides a good strong itchy tight bond with you know these slippery cast machine surfaces like this they're a little bit further all right I'm just gonna snug it just very gently and what I would like to do this is not straight by any means but what I'd like to do is get it as level as possible so we'll run an indicator across here and just get these two points pretty well centered you know equally and then we'll cut it from there we're gonna use the Noga the dial indicator with see the large radius button on there and that's what we'll use to skate across this cast surface I think I'll just put it right here on the tool or let's see if I got room I might bill just put it right up here on the clapper box see if I can reach down there yeah we got enough room there and I don't want to indicate the grind because that's gonna be uneven let's just go with the cast see where it's less bumpy I'm gonna say right in this area here looks pretty pretty good alright well let's uh turn it to where it's orientated go clamped straight there I did some adjusting on the RAM to get the indicated position where we need to so we're ready to go here [Music] approximately a hundred thousand tile on this end nylon hammer shouldn't be very tight yeah a little that time they're sick we split our difference [Applause] a little bit say 40 42 [Music] that looks pretty good right there I'm giving a little snow make sure it stays [Applause] about 45 on this end about 45 on that end so we're pretty well leveled out right there and you can see we've got a low spot in the middle here all right we're ready to start cutting maybe you guys can see so I'm gonna relieve this side the tool get rid of some of that material thin it out a little bit and then you'll have to clear another neat this edge right there [Music] [Music] [Music] to finish up my hones I usually use this easy lap diamond home you got the diamond lap on one side and you got the ultra fine white stone on the on the other side there just provides a nice polish on the on the hone and on the edge there [Music] always just do this by hand and once your edge looks high-polished you're ready to go when you hold it in it should when you're looking at it should look about like Chrome or like looking through a mirror there you just want that edge the edge that's doing all the cutting there to be razor sharp so let's see if this works right here I think it'll give us what we need hopefully I just had a screw up I was coming in here to touch the tool off and on the back stroke the clapper lifted and pulled the tool in to the angle here and chipped out this this top edge even though this has chipped out I think this is still going to be okay we're gonna build a machine this angle here and then machine the top so we'll probably clean that up but what this does this this really frustrates me because the way that I had the clapper set on the other one I had it I had it right and I knew that I had it right and only reason I was doubting myself is because I read a comment where somebody said I was doing it wrong so I started thinking about it and you know looking at the swing of the arc this does seem like it makes sense that it would clear but you see right here this is proof that I was underneath here cutting it and it drugged and then it caught this and the reason why I was touching off here is because the angle isn't exactly 45 so the first cut would actually start here so I wasn't actually touching here yet but to prove that I've got the clapper set wrong I'm going to show you my book as I said a minute ago I swung the clapper to the left side thinking that I was incorrect before and thinking that this was the right way but it in fact if you're cutting that angle that way this clapper is supposed to be swung to the right to clear the tool I'm going to show you in the book where it says that all right right here this is the section talking about cutting an angle which is what we're doing if you look right here the clapper box should be also the clapper box should also be swiveled to the right figure 10 25 which is up here I'll show you that to allow the tool to swing clear the work on the return stroke of the RAM this prevents the tool from dragging reduces damage of the cutting edge and produces better surface finishes if you look right here at this illustration this is what we're doing all right that's the angle that we're cutting right there and you can see the clapper is swung to the right side all right so this proves that I was right the first time I knew that I was right and I was doing it right and I shouldn't listen to what everybody tells me I like to go off the stuff that I learned in my books right here when I'm running this machine so I'm gonna go back and reset the clapper of the correct way I'm gonna re indicate it make sure I didn't move it and then we're gonna start our cuts getting the tool set back up again and we're touching off and I wanted to prove my concept here so you can see as the clapper is swung to clear the the cut on the way back you see the arc angle it arcs away from the part so the way I had it before I had the clapper swung to the left side it arced into the part so this is the right way to do this so now I don't have to worry about it screwing up again all right so we're ready to make our first cut so that our hand plate setup and you guys remember how to set your strokes per minute so cast iron it's recommended 60 feet per minute so 60 times 7 divided by it the link I've got it set at 19 inches and that puts you at 20 to 22 strokes a minute I've actually got the Machine set at 19 strokes a minute so just a shade under what the recommended speed was and touched off here move the table over 60 mm or 1/16 of an inch we'll see how it does oh no fur I don't know how it's going to do 2 to 24 thousands down [Music] [Music] that's looking pretty good I always have to stop the cutout here at the end and raise the tool up because when you bring the tool back all the way back to the beginning of the stroke when it's up on this hand plate you can't actually move this it's engaged and you got to do it out here somewhere it's looking pretty nice in there and we'll just keep our cuts going I have been noticing a little bit of deflection and the tool I think it's because I don't have to I didn't have to give adjusted you have adjusted all the way over like [Music] so and fine adjustments it's a real fine line of having a too-tight and having it just right and you can tell once you start should have just a slight amount of friction so that when you let out of the clutch it doesn't just read pretty slide out nice ability let go to the clutch and it kind of come to a stop fairly quick I'm gonna keep monitoring it and maybe make it fine adjustments on this Ginsberg here try to get this dang this is the give here and all it does it just push over into the RAM way right here and see if I can minimize that deflection that I'm seeing [Music] [Music] unless you for this being my finish cut here on the angle we get through with this cut I'll inspect it and see I took the tool out and reground it because they had a little bit of a burnt edge on it and we ground a tree hone it and taking a lighter cut lighter feed right [Music] I'm real pleased with how this finish turned out and I actually did a much better job on this one than I did on the the King way straightedge I should have paid a little bit more attention to that but I did better on my tool and then I slowed the feed rate down more took a very light cut on there plus with the adjustment on the Gibbs I think it really improved it there so this is looking really nice I look forward to when we get this out of here and running the stone across it and just seeing you know how nice and flat that surface really is so this is done now you can see the chip there that was from the accident we had had earlier but I plan on cutting the top and we're gonna just we're just going to remove that chip by you know coming down far enough and cleaning all of it up to remove that it's on the swing our tool head back around to 90 degrees so this is our this is the clamp for it right here inside there it's like a it's like a split ring that tightens up on the housing area of the tool head here locks it so I'm just gonna tap it soft blow not a hard blow hammer eyeball it as close as we can right there and then we're gonna I'll use a probably a cylinder square in an indicator and then run this up and down and to make sure that our that we're actually you know nice and true in a vertical position here I'm going to use the bed of the vise here to set our cylinder square on just getting the dust off and then we'll use our stone here to make sure that we don't have any high spots on it I've actually never stoned it back here and there's a lot of little little my new kings and high areas from tools and things being set on it that it's cleaning down this is a lot smoother and flatter right in there I'll go ahead and get the the other side while I'm at it all right so this is our cylinder square that I'm going to use and I'm gonna use the precision stones here to just polish the bottom and make sure there's no raised spots on it and it feels good right out of the drawers like that all right we should be good to go there set that right there and then this is what will indicate I've got the square just pushed up against that jaw of the vise here we're gonna go all I've got the tool tool head all the way up all right and then what I can do is just kind of it's like I was already on it you could just rotate it here to find top dead center or you know directly on to the side and then we can fine-tune it with the bottom adjust here and we'll go ahead and start lowering it down all right so we actually went a little bit too far actually I think I'm reading it backwards you know we didn't go far enough actually [Applause] you don't have to go the whole length there I'm just going about what's comfortable there long as you get two or three inches reading that's about all you need [Applause] just about there [Applause] that wiggling that you see the indicator is a little bit of play that you have in the Gib and then the screw moving around in there once you use the lock over here it tightens everything up looking pretty good to me right about there we're going to lock her in [Applause] one thing that I wasn't doing enough really was filing the outer edge there and something that used to do on cast iron so that it doesn't chip out it'll leave a little chip marks there at the very end of the cut I just try to remember to do it we'll start with that but we'll probably to do it again [Music] after touch off I've got it fed down a hundred thousands they're making a pretty good cut on this [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] this is after our very first roughing pass and this area over here looks pretty good this this spot over here I'm not really sure what's going on it almost looks like it's trying to skip a little bit so I don't know what's up with that but we're going to keep going so that we can clean this edge up and continue to file this corner off so it doesn't chip the end of it out [Music] [Music] [Music] we set our cut for our vertical down feed to cut the side in I think I'm going to have it cleaned up in one in one pass there 24000 downbeat and approximately 30,000 after I've touched the side just doing a one more more of a finished cut here there was a couple little hollows down in there from the cast that wasn't clean up so I took another ten thousandth slowed the feed rate down as well and hopefully this will just be my final cut on that edge [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] get my square nose tool set up and then rehomed and if you want to see a detailed rundown on what I'm doing here in the technique and what to do you'll check out the last video I did with the HK a 24 straight edge and I go into more detail on that one showing this technique right here I had a few folks confused about my Honi technique for the flat nose tool so the clapper box is lowered down at a slight bit of an angle on top of the stone here so if I pivot this up and remove the stone and lower the tool back down and lay the stone in there you can see that it goes over against the tool okay so you have to you raise it up some put the stone underneath it and then you lower it down with the lead screw a little at a time and then just drop it down on there gently so that whenever you hone it see now you're going to be honing it and this is how I hone it here run it back and forth on the stone and I just move around so I'm never in the same spot so once you're done honing once you remove the stone and you lower it all the way back down then you'll have the built in clearance behind the tool edge there [Music] [Music] [Music] there's that first cut with the square nose tool and it looks really good typically always get a little bit heavier ever cut the first time so I usually come back and and try to dial in like 1000 to go across there again so I want to make another fitness pass on there [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so this will be the result of our finish cuts actually made a total of three of the finish cuts on there and it turned out just beautiful it is so smooth I did hone it with the precision ground stones by the way so it's nice and slick and I think in the camera you can kind of see the high spots coming through that were touched with the stones something gets you a little closer look of what the surface minutes looks like on the cast this is a little bit a little bit of a porous cast there and Gary that even mentioned that in his a letter he wasn't he thought it was a little bit porous for for his liking there but it turned out really nice let me see if I can show you the whole thing here really really nice this is one of my favorite cuts to make here on the Schaefer is a finishing this cast iron like that where you can get these parallel lines and it just it just I wish you could feel it it just really feels I know you would think that rubbing your finger across that you could feel those grooves but I'm telling you you can't feel that it's just so smooth so we'll bring the surface gage over here and check this one like we did the other ones and see we'll just go across the cuts here and what we want to see is how flat the cuts are you know highs and lows and just like a one localized area like right here that is a tense resolution indicator by the way so looking pretty good scanning across those those cut lines there looks really nice almost forgot that I wanted to trim the ends on this one right here so I've got it all set up I've got the tool kind of had an angle because the the table is all the way over this way as far as I could get it so I just angled all this so that I could get a man good at good so I've got everything ready to go just do it can be running a little bit faster this time I got a set at 80 four strokes a minute 20,000 19 [Applause] alright that looks pretty good I think we're ready to roll on that side I did see a little bit of flexing in this you might have saw it in video not a lot of support up here all right let's go to the other side and get it done [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] Morrissey's ready to take out of the vise now as our first good look at the 45 cut all right Gary I hope you I hope you like it and the way that we machined it we'll do a quick check here on the granite plate just to see how it hinges oh I think it's going to be about like the other ones there it looks like it's hinging more towards the end yeah this one's out here towards the end right there so slightly lower in the in the middle there or higher whichever way you want to look at it but I think that's pretty flat right there I may even do some further checking and see just about what the difference is there I need to set up an indicator and set up some really good blocks for this to sit on and we can get up underneath there and sweep that with an indicator and kind of get an idea I would think that it was this should be within one thousandths but that's just me guessing but looking real nice I like it there's your shot of what the straightedge looks like sitting on the blocks right here I've got them equally spaced from the end approximately 5 inches right there on each side there so got an indicator set up on the backside so I'm going to try to get you the best shot that I can let's get you around there and sweep this thing so what I'm going to do is I'm going to take these this set of blocks right here these are some of the best blocks that I have in the shop these are toolmakers one through three blocks and I already know that these things are about a spot-on as I can as I can have and I'll show them to you but what we're going to do is that well we'll set these blocks like so and then we're going to set or a straightedge on top of that and then we'll use the indicator like that and sweep underneath it and see what kind of reading that we get across the bottom so we're transferring these gonna be used like parallels to bring the the flat plane surface up from this surface here all right but I'll show you real quick I already got a zero set and we'll put these together and I'll show you I'll show you how close these are so that you'll know that we've got a pretty good set of blocks right here to use as parallels an indicator moved a little bit once I got them underneath there about a tenth but everywhere I measure come off there there we go it's within 1/10 everywhere you go as far as parallel and squareness goes so you can see so we should be within about 1/10 by using these blocks right here all right so let me go ahead and get this I'll get everything set up and I'll bring it back once I have everything ready to check we're gonna do a sweep underneath the 18-inch Camelback straightedge here [Music] that's for men to n back again [Music] looks to me like we're within about a half a thousandth on that one alright guys well that's going to conclude the machining of the 18 inch Camelback straightedge they're all I got left to do right now is I'm just going to coat it down and put some of the SP 300 rust inhibitor on there make sure it doesn't start flashing on me and from here like I said we're gonna be going over to the scraping class and plan on scraping all three of these in or I hope anyway hopefully I'll have time to get all of them done but I'm real pleased with how this turned out I showed you the inspection of how you know how flat the surface is right there and I think it did really well coming off of a shaper really really well just looks so good I almost hate to to scrape that these these look so good there but I'm actually looking forward to getting some time on the the by axe and I start getting my practice in a little bit and I get these things scraped in so hope you enjoyed the project again thanks Gary cute over there tools for machines for supplying this to me I really appreciate it and I hope you guys enjoyed the video see you again soon [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 370,659

Rating: 4.9095912 out of 5

Keywords: straight edge, 18, straight, edge, shaper, metal shaper., ge shaper, manual machining, manual machinist, machine shop, job shop, cast iron straight edge, clapper box, tools 4 machines, angular machining

Id: NGNVPfLZb5I

Length: 45min 18sec (2718 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 18 2020