Making an Edge Finder ---- On a Manual mill ???

hey guys chill pie advanced innovations welcome back to the shop sorry I've been off the grid machines are tied up a little hard to break in on setups to shoot videos anyway I have an opportunity to do just that today and I decided to do a project that would have better been suited as a lathe project but I decided to do it on the mill and I decided that for a very specific reason I mean actually if you only have a building you're a little bit out of luck if you Annaleigh project presented to you but this particular project can be done on either machine as you will see I'm only going to do it on the mill but the geometry of the part lends itself perfectly to a lathe job so if you're a lathe guy mill guy doesn't matter you're going to like what you see hopefully anyway this is a project I did many years ago and it was an apprentice level project so if you're a master of tool and die maker you may be interested in what you're going to see but it may not be for you so this is more of an entry-level project and although it's entry level it is something that if you do it correctly you'll probably have it as long as I've had mine and I've had mine for a solid 40 years it's not a very difficult project and there will be a dozen different ways to do what I'm going to show you how to do so the shoulda coulda woulda details design elements that I'm sure a lot of you guys can't contribute naturally feel free to put it in the comment line but the one that I chose I chose because it was very basic it was easy and it was fast and total shoot time on this video not including this intro was two hours start to finish two hours so that's not too bad setting up the camera is getting the material setting up the machines soup the nuts two hours complete so if you're gonna do it without somebody looking over your shoulder or a roll of film on it probably about thirty minutes that's really not a bad job at all anyway let's take a walk out we'll go on to the bench I'll show you the parts that you're going to need to accomplish this and we'll get it go hey guys chill pie here at advanced innovations welcome back to the shop today we're going to make something that I made a very long time ago and I got to tell you it's one of the things that as I was making it I was thinking right okay I might use this a couple times but it's proven to be quite a valuable tool to my toolbox and every time I grab it I remember the time I spent making it which makes it even better so simple project half inch diameter material this is about two or three quarters of an inch long a couple of 10:32 or what would the metric conversion be about five millimeter flathead screws doesn't matter if they're stainless or carbon really doesn't matter you know a variety of drills centre drills this is a 348 diameter Imperial size drill I guess that's about nine millimeters ish and a spring it's all you're gonna need don't grab a spring like this this is a really sad whoop up nothing to it expands real easy you don't want something like that grab something that's got a little bit of meat to it something that you can you can stretch but you don't want it to do this when you stretch it okay you want it to be able to stretch a reasonable amount and snap back with some type of with some type of integrity and naturally hand tools kneel nose pliers cutters cuz you're gonna be cutting on that spring now this is a job that's much better suited for the lathe because anytime you're going to do turning work on a blank it's better to do it on the lathe but I think I'm going to do this on a mill just to show you that it can be done on a mill and you know there's a more of a reason for it being done on the mill than just it can be so let's take walk over to the mill get this thing done it is relatively simple and I think you're gonna like having one in your box position your part in your milling machine vise grab a Vblock and set it up like I have here or however you can set yours up without having the Vblock jump back and forth critical concentricity alignment here is not important so if you want to indicate that in or line it up with a drill blank however you need to do it get it in line with your spindle before you begin [Music] Jil the 350 diameter hole through the center of your part and I'm using a 350 drill because I'm using a 250 spring [Music] countersink the end of your part to accept whatever flathead screw you have selected till the rides flush note that the end of this is still raw stop a good rule of thumb to realize how much further you have to go with your countersink tool before the screw is flush just take a visual or measure how far this when the top of the screw to the surface that you want to hit and there's your there's your offset this one I'm gonna say is about another 15,000 we're good to go and I know the camera can't pick up on that though well that's really warm right now as would be indicated by the smoke yeah [Applause] [Applause] flip it over do the exact same thing from the other side and beware it's going to be hot I put just enough pressure on your part to hold it because realize you are punching the center out of this part and if you have too much jaw pressure you're going to distort this and you don't want to do that [Music] [Applause] that's why I buy these by the bull you may have noticed a speed change in the last drilling operation I like to start my drills a little bit slower when there's a center drill feature there so I don't burn the edges off the drill once I have a full bite I'll crank up the RPMs a little bit [Music] countersink this end as well slow rpm is good [Applause] and just to illustrate how not important this is these are 82 degree screws and I am using a 45 degree countersink so I have a 90 degree conical feature with an 82 degree screw it doesn't mean anything [Applause] all right now this is gonna be pretty hot so be real careful taking it out let's clean this mess up and set up for the next operation next step in the process is to put a couple of a teeth out diameter holes in the set screws or the flat head screws that I'm going to use and just strictly to line these things up by eye I'm going to use a gage pin of the exact same diameter of the threaded part but I'm just going to visually line it up side to side by eye this is not important and location should be somewhere below the conical feature of the screw the side-to-side alignment all's I want to do is line up the pin diameter with the diameter that I want to drill and I'm going to call that my X zero close enough this is a half-inch long flat head I'm going to go about - nandi from the edge out about 290 I'm not using stops we're going to repeat this operation for the next screw [Applause] I'll let change your heart I am going to crowd the center drill to this side of the screw closest to the camera okay about dead center of the actual screw itself I'll give you a close-up when I'm done drilling okay can see the cross all in the screw you're going to need to do that to both screws no sense in filming that but that is basically what you're gonna look for right there setup for the next operation I have put my blank and a half inch collet in my machine and I'm holding a parting tool in my vise and when I bring the parting tool who want to bring the part down to the parting tool party tool is positioned on center since this is spinning clockwise the cutting edge of the parting tool has to be towards the rear of the machine so I've dialed in a height that I want and I'm just going to pull the table across we're gonna cut that off here if you cut it off in a bandsaw however but anyway that's never seen this done there you go now you've seen it done or you'll see it down here to say hang on we're going to try this at 660 rpm hand-feed and I'm cutting off approximately 600 worth of the end okay 600 [Applause] while the part is still setup remove the parting tool put in a turning tool same philosophy here guys the spindle is turning clockwise cutting tool is facing the rear all I want to do is remove the part off remnant and I would like to clean that surface up so a good finish on this surface is relatively important so take your time [Applause] no need to get carried away once it's clean get out of the way load the other part the short part in with the countersink up in the collet okay so you want the parted side down do the same thing with the short side short piece when you decide to face off the short slug that you parted off previously make sure that you engage as much of it as you can in your collet to assure that it's running true [Applause] [Applause] all right let's take a look at what we got and to give you some scale size here we're going to use a six-inch rule just remember this is half-inch stock no blueprints here guys this was completely go for it it's about 600 long 1/2 inch in diameter and this side is about 2 inches and change too and row 62 inch let's say 2 inch 100 it could be anything so long as I like to see this longer than the diameter there's a reason for that and we have two screws flathead screws any size you want to pick provided the head is smaller than the stock that you use and pop a couple of cross holes in the end right there alright this is when we get creative and I highly suggest that you heat treat these pieces do it with a water hardening oil hardening whatever kind of Steel you want to use heat treating this is a really good idea and if you can't heat treat the entire thing then case harden the flat sides that you're faced off okay you have one chamfered side that's going to accept the screw and one flat side you can case hardened these pretty easy get them up cherry red dip them in the case tonight whatever and then rub them out on a piece of Emery cloth so that they slip real nice I've been a lot of light bulbs just went on huh all right let's chop up a piece of spring put this thing together and try not to pinch our fingers step one of the process take your raw spring loop it through one of the screws secure it it's not going anywhere but if you want to close this loop probably wouldn't hurt take the long piece chamfer out see the spring through pull it okay it's buried it's not going anywhere take your short piece lay it up against the side get a visual on the part and for what you're doing I would think it would be very safe to start by cutting the spring off somewhere just almost even with the end of the part okay so that's what I'm going to do and then I'm going to bend that loop up and see how we're doing I'm gonna cut mine spot-on with the end okay right even with the red even with the tube without pulling it right even with the tube this is the part of the project that there probably is no good way to direct you on how to complete this because this is entirely based on how tight this spring is and how big the coil is and just a bunch of feel going on here so if you have to do this a couple of times it is completely understandable I am about a full coil if not a coil and a half below that surface now and I'm just trying to get a visual on where this is going to end up when I stand it up I don't want it to be loose and I don't want it to be overly tight so there's a little bit of finesse going on here I'm going to take the final coil I'm going to bend the coil up so it's vertical keep it in the middle to keep everything balanced and then we're going to try to put this thing together again without pinching your fingers so let's stand this coil up and the easiest way to do that that I found there's this thick of scale in here and rotate it to the point where you want to bend it and then start standing it up by just sticking your fingernail or something in there and bending that this way all right I'm going to do that off-camera I'm gonna do some needle nose plier work so that it's pretty and we'll get right back to you all right yeah I have prepared the end of my spring coming across the center relatively got a decent loop one screw attached and for this you're going to need to bend up a paper clip or something into a spring puller little loop on the end little hook on the end of that and keep that six inch scale handy now this is going to be cumbersome and I'm going to apologize for any lack of video quality but this is a real fumble finger operation and I'll try to do it smooth so you can get some idea what's going on remember this is post heat-treat and the surfaces are nice and smooth put this guy together because screw out put your little hook through this grab a hold of that all right now pull the spring out to a point where you can see the exposed inner coil now there's no easy way to do this in frame guys so I'm just going to have to wing this for a second I'm gonna hold my scale with a pair of pliers as you can see which i think is a pretty good idea I'm going to pull this out I'm going to engage one of these coils on that there you go okay now you got a loaded bomb fed the other screw on here move your fingers out of the way and see if you like what you got yeah I'm not really thrilled with the angle of the head on here so I will probably redo that and it's also based on the field let's reposition the camera take a look now what you've effectively just created is an edge finder now you could have done this on the lathe but you don't use an edge finder on the lathe and if the mill is the only machine that you have well then good for you you just created a milling tool on the mill you can see the kick the amount that it's going to rock off Center is driven by the hole and the diameter of the spring so the wall thickness of whatever tube you create times two plus the spring is going to be the diameter that's you're going to need to know in order to figure out how much it's gonna kick out you want to be able to see it you don't want to make an edge find that it only jumps out that much you want something substantial that's gonna rock and roll so let's know this inner machine don't wind it up at a super high rpm because if the spring is not strong enough you don't want this piece coming out and going sideways that ruins the spring and it ruins the parts and it's a pain in the neck so let's see what kind of results we get in this middle okay your new tool is officially in the collet let's kick it off center fire it up and you're gonna have to trust me on the digital reading that I'm going to tell you the x-axis has so we're looking for repeatability I'm going to do this a couple times and if I can get within a half without each time I will be thrilled so let's check it out [Applause] three readings very consistent if you initial zero is set and you try it again and you try the third time and you try it a fourth time and it keeps coming up with the second value that you've got well then you should have reesy rode your edge finder after the first try so it's not live and learn this is a very good project to do and one of the benefits of having a cylindrical edge finder versus one that is necked down is if you're doing a really large diameter part you can still get this against the diameter of the larger part some of the ones that are neck down to 200 quarter inch whatever it is a little difficult if you're doing like a six-inch diameter to get this right up against the center line of the part and watch for an indication that you have found what you're looking for so I have two of these actually now I have three of these the cylindrical one I use on larger parts the one that's neck down to 200 I use on smaller parts this is a great project if you haven't made one make one you're going to enjoy it thanks for watching I want to guarantee that if you successfully pull that off that that's going to be in your box for a really long time and if you ever do have any problem with that thing sticking pull it apart and lap the two phases that go together just put it on a piece of 800 or 1600 Emery cloth and just wipe it out until it's a nice and smooth and if you want to keep it clean while it's assembled kind of bend it stick a piece of white paper in there and turn both sides it'll have a tendency to clear out any debris or anything that may make it stick so it's a nice project to have naturally the cylindrical body is good for larger diameters you'll find that out if you have one that's got a smaller locator bag anyway we're going to be posting some videos on some scuba diving here pretty soon because I just got back from the Yucatan I was diving some caves that are twenty thirty million year old formations on the inside truly remarkable environment if even if you're not a cave diver you should see some of the holes that we had to drop in in the jungle and you would be thinking what're you thinking that's exactly what I said to myself when I saw the holes where the guy said well that's where we go anyway thank you very much thank you to all the guys that have been contributing through patreon and signing on I do very much appreciate that and I haven't touched any of that account I'm saving that for a nice camera so I can get some really tight close-ups and make better quality videos for all of you guys so thank you very much anyway Joe pipe animations Austin Texas you

Channel: Joe Pie

Views: 197,586

Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, edge finder, making an edge finder, home made tools, toolmaker, picking up an edge, locating an edge, jimmy diresta, abomb, abomb79

Id: FpFu6tsET18

Length: 28min 9sec (1689 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 11 2019