Small Block Chevy Build Stage 2, Part 2: Complete Assembly & Dyno Day - Engine Power S3, E3

we continue the second stage of our three-part small-block Chevy build and today we've taken to the dyno plus the basics on torque values and the tools thanks for joining us back here on engine power today we're gonna finish assemble and dyno Stage two of our three stage small-block Chevy build up if you remember we started stage one with a basic Chevy 350 block we filled with stock replacement parts in the bottom end but we stepped up to a better flowing aluminum cylinder head from Summit Hawaiian single plane intake and a Holley 650 car payoff was 357 horsepower and 389 pound feet of torque great results for a budget of less than four grand for Stage two though we put the parts back on the shelf and throughout that budget you see our goal this time is to make the most naturally aspirated power we can get out of that little mouse block so after tweaking the block to approve oil flow we started with a three 750 Eagle stroker cranked of pump up the cubic inches to 383 for a cam a more aggressive solid roller from comp and along the way we carefully checked all the critical clearances to ensure getting the most out of our much stouter bottom in Eagle sent us a competition rotating assembly with moly forged pistons and rings - hang on our h-beam rods so now we can continue on by dropping in our fully silks comp solid lifters they have a three hundred thousands taller body to clear the taller lifter bosses of our late-model block sealing up our strokers increased cylinder pressure our Kemetic twenty seven thousand thick MLS head gaskets these AFR 220 Eliminator heads are their largest best flowing 23-degree heads that use conventional rocker arms the heavy-duty intake valves measure to 100 and the inconel exhaust valves are at one six hundred bees heads have a stiffer packed racing spring capable of 800 lift and 8,000 rpm we're reusing our ARP head bolts and torquing them to seventy pound feet before we finish the valve train we got a little pre assembly work to do on this AFR Titan TX our intake because of its unique design and the plastic composite material it's made with AFR insist that you follow their directions to the letter to prevent leaks we start by pressing these compression limiters in the valley plate we also need to drill a hole in the manifold spider and install this provided vacuum fitting back on the valley plate we need to install all the coolant port seals then we can pre assemble the spider to the valley plate with the logo facing toward the front the engine will just hand start the socket head cap screws you have to use the supplied out Corning 7:32 on the block's china rail a gasket or silicone could result in losing oil we can now place the valley plate and spider on the engine and temporarily bolt it down and torque to 25 pound feet now the spider gets removed so we can install the remaining seals in the valley plate and in the spider we need to put some of our sealant in these bolt holes to prevent oil seepage in addition to the places where the gaskets and valley plate seal come together finally we can mount the spider to the valley plate and tighten everything down for good well that's the way we install it and now we got the advantage of an interchangeable spider well we got the baddest race version available we could swap this thing out for a more streetable single or dual plane and use the same valley plate with no changes or we could take it off and port and polish it if we wanted to right now what we want to do is let that seal it dry for about 24 hours when we move on to some more work like finishing up installing the rest of our valve train we'll start by installing our shaft systems billet rocker stand with the supplied hardware and we'll torque them to 55 pound-feet after that we can drop in our custom length comp push rods these are 3/8 in diameter with a hundred and thirty-five thousand wall thickness for extra stiffness and less deflection the rockers go on one set at a time per cylinder in the engines firing order will cold lash them to ten thousands on the intake fourteen thousands on the exhaust now I'm going to go ahead and get the rest of these bolted down and set up but there's still a lot more to come so stay with us so man you have you jumped in on this one or what I'm happier little woodpecker the lumberyard and you know you're getting closer with about cover so on these are extra tall over clear louis rockers and we're gonna reuse our summit pro flow electric water pump we had on stage one in the dyno now remember an electric water pump has no parasitic loss of power like a belt-driven one does you might remember in stage one of this project a 650 CFM carburetor was used which was all well it good this time though in the search for more power were stepping up to this quick fuel black diamond 950 CFM carburetor now this brings us to a common question we get a lot of times how do you know how much carb to use with your application well listen up class professor Pat's gonna tell you well use a formula that the theoretical guideline so you don't get a carburetor that's too small for your application and keep in mind this formula does not take into account the pressure drop that the CFM was rated at but it'll keep you out of the woods the formula is engine's cubic inch displacement times its maximum rpm divided by 3456 and that equals the carburetor CFM at 100% volumetric efficiency and what I mean by volumetric efficiency it's the engines intake tract ability to fill the cylinder from top dead center to bottom dead center on its intake stroke and most engines operate between 75% and 95% volumetric efficiency and 100 percent and above are just reserved for true horsepower per cubic inch engines like a NASCAR style or an NHRA pro stock the long version of this equation computes how many intake strokes there are per four cycle engine and converts cubic inches to cubic feet but if we use our 3456 as a factor it will work on any carburetor so how did we apply this formula to our combination well we took our 383 cubic inches and we multiplied it by 8,000 rpm which is what we plan to turn it and divided it by 3456 and that gave us a grand total of eight hundred eighty six point five seven CFM and that's how you can accurately compute your theoretical minimum carburetor CFM or simply use some it's calculator on their website get your carburetor and just put the thing on well it didn't take long to get to this part no no this is my favorite part actually again we're shooting for horsepower numbers well over 500 with this stage to small-block I guess they were taking a head last time using these inch and 3/4 headers from Doug's because we're using them again it's hard to get headers that are too big or spark we're upgrading from the HEI distributor used in stage one to this MSD Froude villain no cutting corners on spark plugs either our wires will snake down to these new III diamond fires now we'll dump in 7 quarts of royal purple XP our 5w30 for fuel will feed our mouse with 93 octane pump gas after a few more final hookups we're gonna line it off alright Joe you ready yeah we'll set the initial timing at 28 degrees and run the engine to get to operating Tim then shut it down and hot latch the valves 16 thousands on the intake 20,000 son the exhaust I'm impressed it sounds great I agree now during the break we're gonna let it warm up again get some oil tip into it where we want it and then you can get ready for some stage 2 horsepower we're back and ready for the initial pull I guess a standard operating procedure for this first pull right yep we're gonna make a short blast 2500 to 5000 just to see what the pressures and fluids look like and we'll go from there to see what happens remember you time for torque and jet for horsepower still got all our guts yeah the graph is solid so what the tuning begin at 20 degrees of timing all the sweep will be between 3500 and 6,500 rpm under good again I liked it I liked it Oh all right there nut 488 488 horsepower 440 pound-feet of torque what do you think more timing more timing out let's pull like three degrees in it now see what happens the goal is to find maximum timing without detonation or power loss but you liked it and definitely liked it Holi 536 horsepower 472 pound-feet of torque we repeated this process one degree at a time checking the plugs along the way still at sea it crept out a little bit 543 horsepower 476 pound-feet little tiny gains that's where we're going one at a time because we can over time it at some point so we're just creeping up on it we're gonna still sneak it in till that levels off so well a little more degrees another degree seven degrees I think we found it like so yeah yeah yeah there it is 541 473 beautiful we've reached our limit too but after some shut-eye we're picking it back up but overnight we had a huge weather swing the air went from cool and dry to warmer humid and rainy so since we don't have controlled Dino air the power will be affected slightly with timing back to our sweet spot at 36 degrees we're making a new baseline run well see where we are today 5:35 for power 473 for torque compared to yesterday when we had the same torque but 541 horsepower so we're down about a percent not too shabby though so let's move on the first thing we're gonna do before we make any changes to the carburetor is stick to AFR 1 inch spacers then designed to run on this manifold the one against the manifold has an open Center and the one under the carb as a tapers for a hole this will maximize the plenum area and change the way the air fuel charge comes into the manifold - carburetor spacers totaling two inches everything else being the same what do you switch think it's going to be interesting that well here we go [Applause] nobody seen a couple extra on that one considering 547 485 for torque that's a gain of 12 horsepower and 12 pound feet of torque peak horsepower was at 6400 rpm and peak torque was at 5300 I don't know if a jet would do anything to it and might make it a little worse so what we could do safely for now is change in air bleed we're going from 32,000 to 36,000 for a four thousand increase same rpm let's let her rip how II think maybe elects the air [Music] turns out no no it doesn't like it at all 537 horse 474 pound-feet for a loss of 10 horsepower and 11 pound-feet peak horsepower was at 6,500 rpm and peak torque occurred at 5,200 RPM so we're cheating the difference down to 34,000 all right a little change little this air we're gonna see what it does here [Music] [Applause] well see what happened there the curb looks nice 545 horse 480 pounds II like that peak horsepower was at 6400 and peak torque was at 5400 and that's okay because you know what that means as those spacers put our carb right in a range where it needed to be as far as air fuel mix and nothing wrong with that that's why we that's why we die no you couldn't feel that in the car you see it in a time slip but that's what Dino ones all about you always don't make a gain it's sometimes good to know what doesn't work yeah time to back up a little and replace the original 36,000 air bleeds and we're not done yet we still have one more change that may or may not help us out I've had a blast helping you out on this thing manjo glad you're here well we got the original bleeds reinstalled because well as it turned out they were correct for this setup but you know it's worth the effort to find out absolutely because when you make a change it doesn't always result in a gain but hey that's why it's called tuning well we've got one more thing to try out now we've been running this thing through two and a half inch exhaust pipes what would another half pitch difference make we're gonna find out they're being fed by inch and 3/4 headers that stays the same but if the smaller exhaust pipes were restriction our three inch replacements should make a difference in power yeah you guessed it another experience this is the grand finale drum roll I don't believe I just saw then with a torque bid for 95 we've got 10 more that was totally unexpected but I guess just like with those air bleep changes you'd never know what's gonna happen and I was glad you were here to see it me too this engine is a great example of what a popular combo on pump gas is capable of and even though it's not a Full Tilt race bullet we show that it is still very sensitive to tuning changes but we're not done we still have stage three plan and that will involve taking most of the components and putting them in an aftermarket block with a centrifugal pressurizer and a trick blow through throttle body injection system watch for it in the future do you want to build an LS that makes big power well this is a great place to start this is a new GM factory overstock 4.8 and 5.3 liter LS block from Summit Racing it's made out of cast iron to withstand high horsepower applications better than aluminum and it also has stock 9 to 40 deck height the bores are finished at 3 780 and it also has six bolt main caps with the cam bearings already installed it's a stout start to your LS build and it's very affordable for only around 400 bucks all engines make heat and de I make some products that protect your engine components from the damages of heat components like spark plug wires and boots this is an 8 pack set of their protective boots designed to protect against header and exhaust manifold heat and lower the risk of backfiring and engine damage they're guaranteed to handle up to 1,200 degrees they fit most straight and 90 degree boots and they come in a variety of seven different colors an 8 cylinder set will set you back less than 60 bucks did you know that Rock Auto dot-com now offers complete exhaust kits for any vehicle you drive that's right all the pieces and parts to get the job done without any of the guesswork and instead of digging through the store shelves you just navigate their user-friendly website to get the system or individual components you need and you can even track your order here so whether it's mufflers or mud flaps if it goes on a vehicle you can find it all at rockauto.com one question we hear a lot from novice engine builders is how important is the correct torquing of engine fasteners well let's talk about cylinder head studs and bolts they have to withstand enormous loads to keep the heads sealed to the gasket and the block here's an example of what those loads are a regular gasoline engine with a four-inch more will see between 1100 and 1200 pounds per square inch at peak combustion pressure for around 14,000 pounds of pressure per cylinder pressing up on the cylinder head that means each fastener could see as much as five tons of pressure each at wide open throttle to keep the head gasket sealed under those conditions requires a clamp load of about three times the peak pressure created against the bottom of the cylinder head now that's called the liftoff force and it varies depending on the application the fasteners around the combustion chamber have to share a combined force of about 45,000 pounds to keep the cylinder head in place now the more bolts are studs you have around the combustion chamber the better that load is spread out cylinder heads main caps and connecting rods have the most critical fasteners in the entire engine they must be in perfect condition and lubricated properly to achieve accurate torque values these fasteners are designed to stretch when tightened and the force of the wrench does two things first it's overcoming the friction between the threads of the fastener and the threads in the block also the friction under the head of the bolt as it turns against the cylinder head which accounts for 85 to 90 percent of the force from the wrench second tightening the fastener creates clamp load as it stretches this accounts for the remaining 10 to 15% of a force from the wrench there are a few types of torque wrenches we use for these fasteners the first is a beam type and these are accurate to within plus or minus 2% of the torque value next in line is a click type which is accurate to it than plus or minus 5% and finally there's an electric which is pricey but has a lot of technology built-in accuracy comes from several factors like the lube that's used the cleanliness of the threads and a torque wrench that's calibrated correctly to check the accuracy of the torque wrenches we use a did torque wrench tester from intercom now its accuracy is within plus or minus 0.25 percent and has modes for inch pounds pound feet and Newton meters to demonstrate I'll apply sixty inch pounds on the beam-style and hold it steady it's spot-on this lets us know that mat coat did an excellent job calibrating this torque wrench so now you know the importance torque on well that's it for this week until next time though peace

Channel: POWERNATION

Views: 539,445

Keywords: Automotive;, Cars;, Vehicles;, How-To;, Auto, News;, Howto;, How, To;, DIY;, Car, Tips

Id: PpsfP93DcbU

Length: 19min 42sec (1182 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 05 2019