Stroking A 5.0L Small Block Ford to 347 C.I. - Engine Power S2, E8

today it's stage one of a potent Street strip 347 cubic inch small block Ford full of power potential [Music] welcome to engine power and a new high-powered project the Ford Windsor series of engines debuted in 1962 with the creation of the 221 cubic inch small block v8 it became the most popular performance foundation for Ford we know it as the five-o in 86 in adopted electronic injection long runners and a new head to crank out 200 horse at 4000 and 285 pound-feet of torque at 3000 to keep on the path of power and interesting projects we're going to keep the gears turning with the new one we're gonna call little black and blue and it's to relate to all of you DIY blue oval gear heads the recipe goes like this 347 cubic inches a set of AFR 205 CC renegade cylinder heads Lunati valve train and an Edelbrock Victor jr. intake manifold topped off with a tricked out quick fuel 750 CFM carb and all that's going to be lit off by MSD ignition specific output in an engine is expressed by horsepower / cubic inches and with our parts combination we should make between 1.35 and 1.4 for horse per cube and that's due to the ability of 93 octane pump gas to resist detonation so with a little quick math we should make between 468 and 500 horsepower saving money at the beginning of a project leaves you more funds down the line for better parts that's why we picked up this fully inspected machined and finished late-model 302 block from Summit Racing it was inspected for cracks and fatigue by being magnaflux then it received an align hone the decks were also cleaned up and it was board then finished on using torque plates to a final 4 o 30 bore plus all the Dow's freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs are already installed making this a cheaper route than tearing yours down and taking it to the machine shop the most important thing for us is they clearance the bottom of the cylinder so our rod bolt clears it due to the larger stroke on the crankshaft now all this for only 750 bucks the block is shipped with an anti rust coating that has to be removed before assembly now we'll use lint free towels and lacquer thinner to get rid of it now Pat is giving it a visual inspection to make sure there's nothing else to do before assembly what he's looking for are burrs rough edges or anything that jumps out and catches his eye you know I've been machining and building engines for over 25 years and I can tell when someone has great attention to detail and this block really shows a lot of that all the freeze plugs were installed with a lettering aligned there was no overspray and a lot of attention was given to the deburring process filling that block is an eagle specialty products 4340 forged rotating assembly now the crank has a three 400 stroke and received their ESP armor finish which is not a coating it's a process that gives the material a mirror-like finish without changing any of its tolerances now it's so slick it reduces friction which reduces heat and allows your engine to make more power by reducing parasitic drag our rods are eagle's forged H beams that have a 5 400 center-to-center length and the cap is held in place with 87 40 ARP rod bolts now our pistons are Mallis forged for t32s with a negative 6 CC valve relief now these things have a 1.5 1.5 3 millimeter ring pack and a 1 o 90 pin location now the protective coating on the side of the skirt is there to protect the engine during cold start ups now all that will ride unproven CLE vite barons our starting point for this build is to check main bearing clearance so the upper halves of the H Series main bearings will go in the block the lower halves are put in the caps and then placed in the registers the stout main stud girdle from Moroso stabilizes those smallish main caps so the engine stays together at high rpms which is our goal next we'll measure each of the crank shafts journals and transfer that measurement to the dial bore gauge which we'll use to measure the torque bearings IDs to find our clearance we need between 23 and 28 10 thousands to fall within our minimum clearance requirement of 1000 spur inch of journal diameter this one fits the bill the journal diameter plus the clearance which is in the middle equals the bearings inner diameter which all of ours in the NGO zone so the cranks ready to drop in royal purple Mac stuff we'll lube the bearings to prevent damage during fire up now the crank is slowly lowered into place making sure it meets the bearings evenly the main caps can be put in place and seated using a rubber mallet and reinstall the main girdle for the final time using a dial indicator we need to check our thrust clearance and with six thousandths the build continues right after this coming up we focus on induction production our latest project little black and blue is ready for the rest of its rotating assembly now we already checked the rod bearing clearance and hung the Pistons to the rods so the next order of business is to dress the Pistons with their new rings there Mallis performance file fit ring set that have a standard tension we'll install the oil support rail first now if this is not used plan on clearing out the mosquito population when you run the engine now the expander followed by the other support rails the second ring which we get to 20 mm can go on now followed by the top ring which was gapped to 18 thousands with oil coating the pistons and rings lube on the rod bearing we can drop the assembly into our ring compressor place it over the number one bore making sure it's aligned with the journal knock it in to the bore then gently seat the rod onto the cranks journal now ease the cap into place and snug up the rod bolts with all eight installed we can torque the rod bolts to 63 foot-pounds remember the rod bolt clearance at the bottom of the cylinder we mentioned earlier well here's what it looks like just an FYI this clearancing would cost you an extra hundred bucks at the machine shop the rotating valve actuator mechanism which is a fancy term for camshaft is a voodoo series from Lunati now it has some pretty healthy specs with 241 degrees of duration on the intake 249 on the exhaust on a hundred and ten degrees of lobe separation and it has six hundred thousands lifts on both intake and exhaust the RPM range is from 3,000 to 7,000 and it needs to be paired up with good flowing cylinder heads to maximize its potential to keep it in place as a milling thrust plate torque to a hundred and twenty inch pounds now the Linate billet timing set with multiple key ways can be installed straight up and torque the Campbell 240 foot-pounds now our fel Pro timing gasket can go followed by the summit racing timing cover and ATI timing pointer which is all held in place with ARP fasteners controlling engine vibrations is an ATI SFI approved super damper held in place with an ARP crank bolt and torque to one hundred foot-pounds now we'll roll her over and drop in the ARP oil pump driveshaft bolt the Melling high volume oil pump in place and attach the Moroso oil pickup now the one-piece pan gasket can be laid down and aligning it our ARP s bullet nose studs now their front sump 7-quart oil pan can drop on over those studs it's designed for street strip use and will clear stroker crankshaft now back up top the slicked up Lunati hydraulic roller lifters can go into the blocks 875 lifter bores we have some interesting plans for this engine so we had to choose a cylinder head that work not only for this combination but also for Stage two we have hidden up our sleeves now these are air flow researchers 205 CC renegade competition heads now the design for race or heavy street strip use their fully CNC machine from the exhaust port to the intake runner as well as the combustion chamber which also houses a 208 e intake and a 1 600 exhaust valve I'm removing the valve spring so we can check for push rod length now this involves using a lightweight checker spring so the plunger of the hydraulic lifter does not get compressed the head gasket and cylinder head will go on the deck and one bolt will hold the head in place now the guide plate and rocker stud are installed since it affects the push rod length the adjustable pushrod checker is positioned on the lifter and using a Sharpie color in the top of the valve stem then place the rocker arm on the stud adjusting the push rod checker will allow us to Center the roller tip of the rocker on the center of the valve stem and tighten the rocker nut so it just touches the folk now the engine is rotated so the roller tip of the rocker arm leaves a mark on the valve tip which is the amount of sweep the roller moves on it we're looking for an arrow mark on the center of the stem which indicates the valvetrain geometry is correct for this application all of this is dictated by the push rod length which is six 600 after you determine your length a quick call of Summit Racing will have new push rods on your doorstep in no time at all we'll be right back with luck on our side we're able to continue assembling little black and blue that's because we found a set of 5/16 push rods that just so happened to be the perfect length in our equipment cage now before these go in we need to prep our head bolts by applying ultra-torque between the shoulder and the washer Plus thread sealant on the threads since the lower ones go into the water jackets of the block it's a good practice to coat them all though so the same torque value is achieved across the head we'll torque them to 65 foot-pounds on performance builds push rod length is never set in stone like Oh er map locations different cam course Isis valve lengths lifter types and rocker arm ratios are all factors in determining the correct length now the two-piece guide plates and rocker studs can go on and use the rocker arms as an alignment tool to get the guide plate in the right position now torque the rocker studs to 50 foot-pounds using a TIG welder tack them together in three places using a MIG here we'll get too much splatter on the engine now drop in the push rods and apply extreme pressure Lube on the contact area between the push rods and the rocker arm cups to protect them during initial fire up with the number one cylinder at TDC we'll set its valves up at a quarter turn past zero lash with all the rockers lashed we're ready to seal the valley using fel-pro gaskets and silicone on the china rails securing the intake our ARP studs which also help align it during installation it's a victor junior single plane intake manifold has an operating range from 3500 to 8000 RPM and accepts 40 150 square bore carburetors now we can torque it to 26 foot-pounds in a cross fashion then repeat this process a few times since you will get gasket compression it's lights out for the valve train with the Summit Racing cast aluminum valve covers they let you know little black and blues cubic inches and that it's a stroker we're using an electric water pump to avoid parasitic drag we want to pull every bit of power out of this engine on the dyno controlling our spark is this Pro Billet distributor from MSD this is a race version with no vacuum advance and now has no mechanical event since we've locked it out one crucial thing we have to change is the distributor gear you can't run an iron gear on a steel cam in this case the materials hate each other and you'll get almost immediate failure on your distributor gear a composite or bronze gear like this one from MSD will solve the problem the bronze material is softer than the camshaft gear allowing for a friendly mesh between the two the gear isn't hard to change but it's positioned on the distributor shaft is crucial luckily MSD provides the correct dimensions for its placement on this sheet using a roll pin punch gently tap the existing pin out of the shaft and with our dake arbor press we can remove the gear which is press fit from the shaft now press the bronze gear into position making sure the hole in the gear is 90 degrees from the original hole in the shaft and following your specs from the pink sheet a dial caliper is recommended not a tape measure we're really close so a few thousand we're in business once you're positive it's correct carefully drill a hundred and twenty-five thousand or eight inch hole through the chef and install the supplied roll pin with Lube on the gear and the o-ring in place it's ready to drop in normally red we added our own dupli-color touch in Ford blue wrapping up the front is this thermostat housing we got from Summit now the valve covers are topped off with trick little breathers from Spectre and to get ready for the carburetor a gasket a UCM 1-inch cnc'd carb spacer another gasket our Dino throttle plate another gasket and finally this quick fuel Black Diamond Q Series 750 is going to feed this little beast now it's setup with mechanical secondaries billet metering blocks and base plate and down lake boosters now it's designed for drag race use and sports the satin black finish a specter extra flow 14-inch air cleaner assembly will top it all off this engine is a small package that son a pack a big punch the dinos next we'll our calculations come true stay with us little black and blue is hooked up and ready to run so how much grunt is it gonna put out well with 347 cubic inches a ten point four to one compression ratio the 205 cc cylinder heads and the Victor jr. intake manifold all lit off by 93 octane we're going to say 450 and with a little bit of top olinsky's tuning we know we'll see more the timing is being set to a safe 30 degrees to start out reason being it's the initial pull and we want to make sure the pressures and temps stay where they should with all those vitals looking good she loads up here goes the first pull from 2500 to 5800 rpm cookers inch and five-eighths long tubes helps it breathe [Music] smooth wow that's really nice entacle we underestimated ourselves underestimated is slightly 457 on power torque was 430 s this engine has no timing it so will bring it up to 32 degrees remember timing affects torque and carburetor jetting affects horsepower and they each affect each other 466 on power 4 39 on torque okay I'm at 347 baby so we'll add two more for 34 degrees and raise the entire suite starting at 3500 and pulling out at 6500 rpm 494 440 we're only adding one degree for this run we are dangerously close to cracking 500 with this thing to give it a better chance we're going to run the engine from 4,000 to 6,800 rpm I think I saw it I think I built it 504 for 46 years 504 and with 446 foot-pounds we're done timing for torque to lean it out at the top end and hope for a couple more numbers the high-speed air bleeds are going from 33 s to 37 s [Music] 5:07 447 yep let's see what it did for horsepower per cube 144 six that is and on the torque side one two nine that is excellent for pump yes and it even exceeds Pat's pre-build calculations that's it baby phase one is complete one is done that is awesome Pat that is awesome that is an awesome engine I like a nice job yeah the parts list will be on the website once again science and physics don't lie these parts were matched up based on their capabilities and operating range there are no secrets here there off-the-shelf parts with a solid build and good attention to detail and who knows at some point this may be offered as a crate engine package from Summit Racing next time we're going bigger on induction valve train and compression and you don't want to miss that

Channel: POWERNATION

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Keywords: stroking a 5.0, small block ford, Automotive;, Cars;, Vehicles;, How-To;, Auto, News;, Howto;, How, To;, DIY;, Car, Tips, powernation, ford, small block

Id: RsxV4LZWlJc

Length: 18min 42sec (1122 seconds)

Published: Tue Sep 10 2019