Small Block Chevy Build Stage 1: Reliable Power Under $4,000 - Engine Power S3, E1

[Music] you asked we listened we're gone back to the basics with a small-block Chevy being felt on a budget and valuable tech tips for tuning a carburetor welcome to engine power we're super excited about this 2016 season now we've received a lot of emails from you awesome viewers about projects you'd like to see now a lot of you guys want to see more budget builds while the other half wants to see more big power back on the engine dyno well we're here to satisfy both sides and we're starting with the basics small-block Chevy's will always be around as well as something to put them into if you're working on a tight budget there's nothing easier to build that will produce good power so with your input we're gonna do just that but we're also gonna take care of the guys that Mike mentioned and we're gonna do this in a three stage build and we're calling it in-house power Mouse Stage one is going to be simple we're using all catalog parts from Summit Racing and everything set on a pretty strict budget but that doesn't mean the parts won't perform some it has Pro pacs and combos some of them we helped design that make it easier for you and have really good part selection it doesn't get any easier to order either we chose this Pro pack engine kit that contains pretty much everything you need to complete a short block this pro pack oil pump and pan kit was next on our list followed by the cam and lift or kit and the cylinder heads are ordered as a pair and even come with rocker studs and guide plates the rest of the goodies were ordered individually with dollar savings being priority instead of the hassle of finding a good block and having it machined we opted for the Summit Racing fully machine iron for bolt main late-model block it's Borden honed 30,000 silver a line honed square decked and came with cam bearings freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs already installed not bad for under 700 bucks you'd at least spend that at a machine shop even though it's new it still needs to be watched foreign matter and rust inhibitors are what we want to remove those are the items that will affect tolerances and assemble if we didn't have the washer we still clean it thoroughly with hot soapy water and a set of brushes the block is shipped and ready to assemble form and we're gonna put it together just like you would at home without any of the specialized things that we have but the good news is with the pro packs you don't need them and that packing the Summit Racing cast steel crankshaft it has 350 journals it's internally balanced and utilizes a two piece rear main seal now normally we would measure the journals with a mic and we would dial bore gauge the mains in the block but I'm going to show you how you can check their clearances yourself at home without them and it starts with the main bearings they are from cleave ight and they're also included in the kit they are a tri metal design and are perfect for our application first lay the crank in place no oil is applied because we're using this it's called plastic age here's how it's used to determine our clearance cut a piece of plastic gauge between the reading scale open up the paper and carefully remove the thin Green wax string inside and lay it on the Kranks journal gently position the cap seat it and torque it to final spec remove the cap and use the scale to find your tolerance our reading is between two and three thousand s now the crank comes out and with the cap installed and the bore gauge set to the cranks journal will verify the plasti gauges accuracy it measures twenty seven ten thousand s and that's within a half thousand of our range all you do is repeat that four more times and you're good to go so it's plastic gauge accurate if you don't have a set of mics it is in my book and the important thing is that you're checking clearances to make sure that you're in the range you need to be so you don't burn anything up wasting your hard-earned money you spent on this new bullet since our block is a late-model vortex setup for a one piece rear main seal and our crankshaft uses a two-piece one we're gonna use this rear main seal adapter we got from Summit Racing with the top piece aligned and fastened down I can juice up the bearings with high viscosity assembly Lube and carefully drop the crank into place the caps also get the same treatment and they're seated with a dead blow hammer then they are all torqued a 70 pound feet on the inners and 65 pound feet on the outers using engine oil as a Lube finally the other half of the rear main seal adapter goes on the thrust checks out at for thousands if you don't have a dial indicator make sure the crank moves fore-and-aft a little bit we're continuing on after this welcome back to the stage one build of in-house power mouse and so far it's going really smooth we have the crank in for good but we still have plenty of parts from the summit kit to put into this budget built small-block Chevrolet will rotate the block to the upright position and install the cam at this time it's a Summit Racing single pattern hydraulic flat tappet cam that has 218 degrees at 50 duration on both the intake and exhaust plus it has 450 thousands of valve lift as well the lobe separation is a tight hundred and six degrees be sure to use the included cam lube on the lobes which helps establish a wear pattern in the parts and prevents premature failure do not use oil here when talking cam stuff single pattern means that the intake and exhaust duration degrees are the same a split duration means that they are different next up is the double row timing chain assembly the crank gear has multiple key ways to degree the cam in where you'd like it a pioneer roller cam button will keep the cams thrust in check it's not required for a flat tappet cam but the roller cam in stage two will need it so we're all set up for it the bolts are torqued to 28 pound feet in order to degree the cam we have to assemble the Pistons and rods using a heater like this now the small end gets heated up and expands so the pin can fit through it as it contracts it locks the pin in place that's why they call it a press fit now if you do this at home with a torch you actually overheat the small in causing Distortion now that'll cause the pin to walk inside of the engine and make contact with the cylinder wall causing catastrophic failure so you can make a quick trip to the machine shop and for less than 50 bucks have it done the right way here's how we do it we're using our Goodson rod heater that runs off propane with the flame adjusted we'll place the small end of the rod on the rest let it heat up for about 20 seconds then flip the rod so even heat is applied when a heat line is halfway down the small end it's ready now with a piston and pin waiting in the fixture align the small end with the pin and use a pusher to insert it hold it for about 5 seconds and that's it now you want free movement just like this now we'll drop the number 1 assembly in to find TDC no rings are needed down low on the big end the bearings are in but not for good we have to check their clearances - in this case we're going to put the cam in at 102 degrees of intake center line this will promote more low-end torque since our rpm range is limited to under 6,000 rpm with that done and some Loctite silicone on the block and all start timing cover from Summit will seal up the front of the engine ring packs that come with stock piston sets are normally pre gap but they still need to be checked all of them now what we're looking for for the top ring is four thousandths gap per inch of bore since we're working with a 4 o 30 bore we want at least 16 thousands here now for the second ring we want to open that up just a hair more - about 18 thousands first thing I'll do is place the ring in the bore and then using a piston or a squaring tool like this square the ring up using a 16,000 Spieler gage I'll check the Rings gap as you can see it's a little loose which isn't a bad thing but if it was too tight as the piston expands the ring gap closes and butts together when that happens it'll literally rip the top of the piston right off now we have right at 21,000 switch is fine now there won't be any negative effect with that little bit of increase it's pretty common in factory type rings the best part for you guys without a ring filer this works out perfect now I'm going to go ahead and install the rings on all the Pistons and get them in the bores we'll be right back all our rods and pistons are dropped in and our in-house power mouse bill continues with this Summit Racing Pro Pack oil pan and pump kit it has a built-in windage tray a rear sump and a trapdoor for more oil control it also has a high performance oil pump with the shaft and a one-piece oil pan gasket first to go in is an included oil pump stud now the pump and pickup go into place and will torque the nut to 50-pound feed the gasket can be placed on the pan rail and finally the pan securing it our grade eight fasteners a Summit Racing street strip bracket racer SFI balancer goes on next and it's locked down with an ARP crank bolt here's a little backyard tech we didn't have the correct timing pointer so we made one work by finding TDC with a dial indicator we mark the pointer at zero cut it with tin snips bolted it down and bent it into position the first items for the top end are these aluminum Summit Racing cylinder heads now these are a vortex style with a hundred and seventy CC intake runner and the 69 CC exhaust runner with a d-shaped port now underneath we have a 202 intake valve and a 1 600 exhaust valve and they're both sitting in a 62 CC combustion chamber now these heads flow right at 242 CFM at 500 and the valve springs are set up for a hydraulic flat tappet cam with less than 500 inch lifts these heads are much better than stock gaskets from the pro pack will seal them to the deck these are quality fel pros and have a 39,000 s compress thickness with the heads located on the dowels we can drop in our lubed head bolts and torque them down to 70 pound feet next up are the hydraulically actuated low following push rod lifting valve opening apparatuses or lifters now their hydraulic flat tappets here's an FYI the bottom of the lifter is not flat it's actually rounded now that combined with the lifters Center being slightly offset to the rear about 20 thousands keeps the camshaft pushed to the rear of the block now that's why the cam button up front was not necessarily needed for this stage like Pat mentioned earlier stock length 5/16 push rods are dropped through the heads guide plates and rest on the lifters these roller rockers fit the budget theme they're aluminum full rollers with a 1.6 ratio they come with poly locks for less than 160 bucks the setting for the intake and exhaust lash is half turn past zero this y end accelerator single plane intake manifold will top off the heads its operating range is from 1500 to 6,800 RPM the rest was put on in here supply and spark is appart Ron explained thrower hei with a magnetic pickup and mechanical advance it produces 42% more coil energy over stock a Qi is supplying fuel as a Holley 650 CFM HP and per tronics 8 millimeter flamethrower wires make the connection between the hei and III spark plugs inch and 3/4 Dougs long tube headers are our choice for this dyno session we're starting with 30 degrees of total timing and using 93 octane in the fuel cell this engine has a ten point two five to one compression ratio all right the first poll is gonna be from 2500 to 4800 just to see how she acts just kidding we have to take a quick break but we come back we're doing our full dyno session and you'll see the results plus how the pros tuna car sorry to make you wait here's that 25 to 4800 RPM cold right sewing machine smooth as silk 3:38 on power 388 pounds E flat flat torque curve still making good power and climbing look any miracles Wow 377 pound-feet from 41 to 43 hundred and at 48 it's only dumping down at 370 gotta turn it higher why hire six thousand 345 377 on torque let's see peak power 5100 peak torque it held 377 pound-feet from 4,000 the 4,300 that is not too shabby for a little 355 inch deal with a flat tap in it well we got steps of timing on it and an intake needs a little fun of volume it absolutely does and I hate to change into things at once but timing in spacer I'll do timing the spacer alright 1 inch spacer 36 degrees of timing same rpm keep in mind this TBI engines typically made along 200 horsepower from a factory bad bad 357 on power 389 on tours excellent and excellent for cheap this thing's got a great vacuum this is a hundred thousand mile engine that you could put it in a manual automatic wouldn't matter single run like a sewing machine forever peak power 357 at 51 torque was 389 at 43 and 4400 sweet that's a winner for the money it's job well you asked for it and you got it this is stage one of three and it was built on the cheap the next one is going to get better internals more cubic inches and a top-end kit that's going to crank out some big numbers and stage three will even be more spicy with an aftermarket block and a big power adder and that's all we're gonna tell you for now Trick Flow specialties is sure to put a smile on our big block Mopar owners with their new CNC power port 240 aluminum cylinder head it features a 240 CC intake runner and a 76 CC exhaust runner and it also has a heart-shaped 78 CC combustion chamber the valves measure in at to 190 on the intake and one 760 on the hot side and they're compatible with all pistons rocker arms intake manifolds and headers and the price for a complete set is only about two grand if you're looking for a radiator condition or due to high operating temperature oven in your cooling system royal Purple's purple ice will help you out now this stuff reduces the surface tension of the coolant allowing more heat to transfer outside of the radiator allowing your engine to run cooler now when the directions are followed this stuff will actually lower the coolant temps up to 22 degrees now you can find it at any of your local auto parts stores whether you run race gas ethanol or methanol mr. gaskets gravity-feed micro electric pump will work for you it features state-of-the-art electronics and has no diaphragms or mechanical parts to wear out it's internally regulated between 4 and 7 psi and delivers 35 gallons per hour of flow with a simple 2 wire 12 volt hookup and it comes with mounting hardware a 100 micron filter and easy to follow instructions all for around 50 bucks you guys asked this question a lot through emails and today we're gonna answer it it takes a lot to get an engine up and running on the dyno there's a lot of factors involved one of them is getting the carburetor set up and tuned in so the engine runs smooth and we're in a safe air fuel ratio range well today we're going to show you how we do it and this goes for a carburetor that's brand new out of the box or maybe something you're having a little bit of an issue with with electronic fuel injection flooding the automotive market some may think that carburetors are a thing of the past well I challenge you to go to your local drag strip or Car Show and count how many curbs that you see whether it's a nitrous car a naturally aspirated door slammer or just a nice hot rod I bet you're still going to see plenty of carbs the culprit for today's tech is the 700 50 CFM quick fuel black diamond carburetor now this thing has mechanical secondaries no choke and no choke horn making this a high-performance drag race or oval track setup it's safe to say no matter the application the car will require some adjustment out of the box for the most part there will be minor ones this engine is a mild built 350 small block Chevrolet so I'm sure a lot of you can relate to it our starting point is setting the engines curb idle speed and that's determined by the part selection and the engines purpose this cam has a hydraulic flat tappet with a duration of 218 degrees at 50 so our target is gonna be 750 rpm hitting that target is done by adjusting the throttle blades using the adjustment screw or screws now some carbs have one for the front blades and one for the rear with the engine not running will completely close the throttle blades then slightly open them about a quarter turn then start the engine and let it reach operating temperature by turning it clockwise it opens the blades which increases in idle speed counterclockwise closes them decreasing idle speed our target is set the idle mixture is next this carb has a four corner idle mixture setup we like to run each screw in until it gently bottoms out then back each one off one turn as a starting point hook up a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum port and adjust the screws evenly to achieve the highest vacuum reading the idle speed will increase when this happens so a slight idle speed adjustment can be done while this is going on keep repeating this process until your mixture screws are even and your vacuum is at its highest then you can back your idle speed down by turning the main idle screw for the last time using these few simple tools gets you to a good point for the rest of your tuning and that means driving if it's your street car or making passes with it if it's your race car and that means changing jets and air bleeds and we'll get to that another time we hope you learned something or maybe got a little inspiration to get out in your garage and try the same type of build now stage 2 is going to be packed full of power so make sure you keep an eye out for it we'll see you next time

Channel: POWERNATION

Views: 921,117

Keywords: Automotive;, Cars;, Vehicles;, How-To;, Auto, News;, Howto;, How, To;, DIY;, Car, Tips, SBC, Small Block, Block, Small Chevy, Small Block Chevy, Small Block Chevrolet, Budget Engine, Budget Horsepower, Horsepower, Dyno, Engine Dyno, Chevy Engines, Chevrolet Engines, LS Engines, Summit Racing, Car Build, Truck Build, powerplant

Id: ghRJf26qD_o

Length: 19min 43sec (1183 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 28 2019