Over 13:1 on Pump Gas! Chevy 350 Dyno Mule - Engine Power S9, E9 &10

[Music] you're watching power nation from old reliable to wow we've got big plans for this small block chevy today on engine power we bring our backyard build into the shop to give it a slew of power upgrades [Music] hey everybody here in ninja power we have one of our old favorites back and it's probably pretty recognizable to you it's a small block chevy 350 that was pretty unique because it never even came into the shop we did all the work out back in our parking lot just like you guys would at home now we accidentally picked the hottest day of the year to do that but after a long day of thrashing we even started up right out on the pavement after all of that fun we brought it back into the shop hooked it to the dyno to see how it runs now quite frankly it did rather well we have a very distinctive looking setup so you would probably remember both the dyno session and the build but just in case you don't have a look at this frankie told me he got a good deal on a throttle body injection small block along with some parts that had been ordered for the seller's engine built tearing into an engine is kind of like opening a christmas present sometimes it's great sometimes it's terrible and sometimes like this small block it's pretty good we did hit a couple of snags along the way such as underneath the valve cover whoa look at that a couple of the oil shrouders are broken i actually saw that one of those on the other head but there's a couple in this head that are broken i have never seen that before oh i mean just some water and oh there's there's and some oil water i don't see any chunks though man a little bit of it's not too bad that's not total milkshake it's kind of dirty yeah nasty oh this is a horrible job that's what cardboard's for yep after cleaning the cylinder heads by hand we installed new seals and valve springs designed for a hydraulic roller cam then we freshen up the cylinder bores using a 320 grit ball home this establishes a new finish for the fresh piston rings to seat on we used engine oil as a lubricant and turned the hone at about 300 rpm to achieve roughly a 45 degree included angle on the crosshatch to measure main bearing clearance we used plastigage after torquing the caps down and removing them we checked the compressed plastic against the gauge we had about two thousands clearance the crankshaft is a 10 000 under and is part of a kit that includes bearings the mains are torqued to 65 pound-feet a new cam was included in our engine purchase it's a hydraulic roller from comp with a fairly sporty grind a new double roller timing set came next [Music] we reused the pistons but since the rings are a wear item they were replaced with a set of oem style pieces [Music] there's no way we'll build an engine without degreeing the cam it came in at 106 degrees of intake center line which is 4 degrees advanced [Music] a fresh oil pump and pickup assembly went in retrofit hydraulic lifters were part of a cam kit [Music] [Music] i wish that crew would come and do our work that normally does it the ninjas all the ninjas the midnight ninjas yeah the heads were torqued in three equal steps to 65 pound-feet the push rods were part of the cam kit and are shorter than the original [Music] we had a dual plane wired speed warrior intake in our shop it's a great choice for this engine a street demon carb was next followed by our derby headers all right here we go there you go solid you like those borrowed those from the guys down in carcass i knew we'd get used out of them one day then we ran fuel and electrical lines and fired this small block up [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] when we got the engine back into the shop it went straight into the dyno cell smooth yeah good oil pressure no way yeah look at that [Music] the timing is right there does that actually make decent power that's not bad the chevy put out 276 horsepower at 4 800 rpm and 345 pound-feet of torque at 3200 rpm coming up static compression is important but dynamic compression tells the full story we're back on the small block chevy 350 backyard build we have a bunch of parts in-house to upgrade this power plant and it will get a big power increase over the modest driveway build you've seen here before last time we did this it was like 600 degrees out no by that time it was all dark remember it was all it was like it was only you know like 90 degrees the teardown begins by removing these notoriously obnoxious derby headers takes a little bit of work huh i'm still working on it i was uh very happy with how it ran yeah and since this engine is getting better induction and an upgraded rotating assembly it has to come completely apart [Music] even though this small block didn't make crazy power the spark plugs indicate that the engine had a great tune-up in it this side's the same way not bad for a parking lot home job she's sealed up nice yeah i mean it didn't make a ton of power but when it when it was diode it ran really good it didn't smoke didn't miss i mean can't complain for being built in the parking lot stuck down yeah there you go power it off there there we go still looks good a brand new engine yeah sort of kind of not really [Music] whoa come back here since we won't be reusing the cylinder heads or valve train we'll skip removing the rockers and push rods and jump straight to unbolting the heads [Music] [Music] nice wow the chambers look good not wet looks like it was running really nice actually yes chambers are all dry cylinders are dry i wasn't expecting a race engine but uh the cylinders look decent if you don't see anything that's that's migrating oil-wise up into the chamber and things like that yeah it was running fine for the way it looked before it looks just as good now you know like yeah it wasn't perfect when we started so it's not perfect now but it still looks good and there wasn't any major problems looks like it ran really nice and we know that it did because we downloaded it so yeah beauty we're not going to use these lifters again i don't think no but i think we'll keep them just in case there's probably nothing wrong with them so we can keep them for another project and hydraulic rollers so don't need to keep them in order or anything right brand new everything looks fantastical though i'll take it [Music] the great part about a one-piece oil pan gasket if you don't go too heavy on the silicone when installing it you can generally reuse them later this one looks really clean and was only installed last year so we'll reuse it [Music] this oe replacement balancer worked great for the first build but since we're upping the power we'll replace it with an sfi approved piece [Music] before the bolts can come out the locking plate tabs must be bent back out of the way [Music] because the engine has a hydraulic roller cam a camshaft thrust button was used to keep the cam located we'll save it to use on the new camshaft [Music] brandy new i mean they basically are always protect the crankshaft by covering the rod bolts before removing the connecting rods [Music] oh yeah pretty good yeah those look pretty good for used pistons [Music] and i mean really used pistons hey what we got to keep going here i i know you're just reminiscing you're living in the past yeah live in the now [Music] shame to tear this one down but uh we're doing it for a good reason yeah more power is always a good reason but it looks really really nice so that's a good sign small block chevy builds are a dime a dozen and we have done our fair share so with this one we're going to do something that is a little bit different we haven't covered that much you might not have seen but it's universal to all engines and that is cover dynamic compression ratio normally the rule back in the day was that 11 to 1 static compression ratio was the limit for pump gas but there's a few more factors that go into the actual octane rating your fuel needs and the bigger one is dynamic compression ratio static compression ratio uses the distance between the piston at bottom dead center and top dead center during its calculation but dynamic compression ratio factors in when the intake valve closes because no air can actually be compressed inside the cylinder until both valves are closed because it's based off when the intake valve closes cam size and in tank center line placement are huge factors for our engine we're going to run a static compression ratio that you would normally think is not possible on pump gas but because of our dynamic compression ratio it's going to run just fine spoken like a true engine builder i try sometimes [Music] up next we prep the small block to receive forged pistons and upgraded cylinder heads the purpose of this build is to show you that the octane rating of your fuel is not determined solely by static compression ratio we are retaining the stock block and stock crankshaft because they will be sufficient for our power level but we are upgrading the rest of the internal components with things we picked up from summit racing equipment and that's going to help us make that happen and it all starts with the connecting rods they are from scat and they are 40 340 material with an i-beam design they are 5-700 center to center length like a stock small block chevy with a 927 wrist pin but this one contains a bushing so we can run floating wrist pins we're getting rid of the press fit they are also retained by 8740 arp rod bolts those rods will be swinging around some icon forged pistons these are 2618 alloy and have a 16th 16th 3 16th ring pack they also have a 927 wrist pin but these pistons have something that you normally don't see us have and that is a 13 cc effective dome that will help us get our static compression ratio up to where we want it for this build filling up those ring grooves are a set of total seal rings these are a special set of rings that have a top ring that is gas ported we want that benefit of gas porting but we didn't have any gas ports in the pistons themselves so we will really benefit from their extra sealing ability also we are going to do some special stuff with the camshafts you see two camshafts sitting here which is odd but one is a large one and one is a not so large one and they are both a track max from trick flow the camshaft is what affects dynamic compression so depending on where the cam is and how big it is that determines our dynamic compression the smaller of the two has a duration at 50 000 lift of 230 degrees on the intake 234 degrees on the exhaust and they are on a 110 degree lobe separation the larger one is a 246 at 50 on the intake 254 on the exhaust on a 112 degree both camshafts will work for our application but that is strictly dependent on where the intake center line falls on the camshaft so we have a billet timing set with a nine position keyway on the crank side to help adjust it where we want it on the induction side we're keeping it simple and we're keeping it classy these are trick flows super 23 degree series fast as cast 195 cc intake port heads these do not have any cnc done the port is cast to the right shape so they flow great they have a 2020 intake 1 600 exhaust they're both swirl polished stainless and they're housed in a 62 cc chamber they also have a 1 460 diameter spring set up for our hydraulic rollers and for the top of the induction we're going to keep the rpm range in a manageable spot so we have a trick flow street burner dual plane intake manifold like always we're holding everything together with arp fasteners before we can install any of these parts we have some work to do namely get the crankshaft rebalanced and do a bunch of prep work on the block like make our pistons fit so off to the races a solid carbide tip scraper might set you back 30 or more but it makes quick work of removing old gasket material without damaging the surface we'll punch out the cam bearings before deburring and cleaning the engine this prevents metal shavings from getting behind the bearings during machining we'll also remove the oil gallery threaded and pressed in plugs so the galleries can be cleaned before assembly [Music] using a metal file will gently deburr the block and main caps it doesn't take much we're only removing a tiny amount of metal to round off sharp edges which could cut you it also helps remove stress risers where cracks could start this takes a bit of time but it's very satisfying when you're done we'll run the engine in the jet washer to remove the metal shavings we don't want them getting into the cylinder home up next setting the correct piston skirt clearance helps make sure your engine runs right and runs long we are all about horsepower here and that means increasing cylinder pressure we've been talking about how that correlates the fuel octane you need but it also determines what kind of spark plug you need to run now there's a bunch of different styles and manufacturers of spark plug but in today's summit tech tip we're going to be talking about spark plug heat range now the heat range determines how much heat is transferred from the spark plug itself through the threads into the cylinder head and onto the cooling system a hotter spark plug has less contact between the porcelain and the threads of the plug so it will transfer less heat while a colder plug has more contact between the porcelain and the threads and will transfer more heat here's an example of a cold spark plug and a hot spark plug and you can see the difference in how much contact the porcelain has with the threads a spark plug that is too cold will not retain enough heat to burn off carbon deposits and can eventually foul while a spark plug that is too hot can become a potential point for pre-ignition which is when the fuel air mixture is lit long before we want it to and is completely different from detonation but very harmful to the internal components of the engine every manufacturer has a different heat range that correlates to how much heat the spark plug will transfer but if you know the style and size of the spark plug you're going to be using it's pretty easy to cross reference heat ranges between brands just like everything else in engine building this is application specific to how much power you're going to make so you definitely need to know the heat ranges of the manufacturer you're going to be working with something to think about when you're trying to make more power if you need help finding the right plug for your application reach out to the experts at summit racing equipment there isn't anything that bolts on the inside or outside of an engine that can't benefit from a high quality fastener and that's why you see a lot of arp around here we wanted to upgrade the fasteners in our engine and that includes the main so we ordered up one of their main bolt kits this one has 8740 chrome molle fasteners that have 180 000 psi of tinsel strength that far exceeds the tensile strength of an oem bolt and even a grade 8. the kits come with everything you need including lube and detailed instructions the instructions are very important because since these are not an oem fastener they take a higher torque value you can't just look at an oem book and get the torque you have to follow the instructions to get it right we are going to get the mains torqued on and then get it in the home we apply ultra torque lube under the bolt heads and on the threads themselves you'll notice there's no lube under the washer this is a critical step that ensures torque accuracy lubrication under the washer can over stress the fastener even at the correct torque value because the washer acts like a bearing if lubed on both sides the bolts are torqued to 70 pound feet with our block fixtured up in our sun and sv15 it's time to set one of the most critical clearances in an engine piston skirt clearance now that is dependent on a couple of different things and this is like everything else it's application specific it depends on what the piston is made out of and what you are going to be doing with the engine because the exact same piston design has to do a whole bunch of different things related to heat so it can be used in a variety of applications this handy dandy sheet is included with the pistons to give you a guideline of where to set your clearance depending on what you're doing from street naturally aspirated all the way through to marine supercharge and the clearances will vary quite a bit because this is a 2618 alloy it has a high rate of expansion and that will vary in clearance from a minimum of three and a half thousands all the way up to nine thousands on some applications that sounds like a lot of clearance because it is engines that generate a lot of cylinder pressure generate a lot of heat and when that heat is made the piston swells faster than the block can keep up with it so if you don't have that additional clearance you run the risk of damaging both the cylinder and the piston itself for our application which is essentially an r d engine we are going to set the piston clearance at six thousandths and that clearance is determined by the manufacturer as well the piston manufacturer determines where they want the skirt measured for proper clearance and these have a mark where you put the anvils of your micrometer to get the accurate measurement our skirts are measuring 4056 and two tenths that means with our additional clearance our final bore size will be 4062 and two ten thousands it's a little bit bigger than the final 406 because the block is 40 over now i have a lot of honing i have to have to rough the cylinders out put the torque plate on and run them all to final size so the next time you see this it'll be ready to assemble for more information on anything you've seen today please visit our website [Music] somebody call a psychiatrist because we've developed an unhealthy compression obsession there's a limit on how much compression you can safely build using pump gas and today we just might find it [Music] today on engine power we are getting back on the revamping of our backyard small block chevy build into a dyno mule so we can do a little bit of r d we're going to show you today how you can run your static compression higher than you normally think you ever could and still run it on pump gas we've had to ditch most of the stock parts in favor of some shiny new high performance ones to get the job done if you want to see what we've done to this engine to get it to this point watch this frankie hunted down a worn out small block that also came with some parts intended for the seller's engine project after a complete rebuild including new springs a bigger cam and a bunch of top end components we fired it up just for fun in the parking lot [Music] then we rolled it into the dyno cell no way yeah look at that the chevy was good for 276 horsepower and 345 pound-feet of torque but we want more power and for this build part of that equation is increasing dynamic compression after tear down and inspection we prepped the engine for forged rods and pistons gas ported rings a couple of camshaft choices adjustable timing set 195 cc heads dual plane intake and a user-friendly efi system to achieve the proper cylinder wall finish and to let us install bigger better pistons the cylinders were honed to 4062 and 210s you know what you're going to say i think so all right go ahead i don't know oh there you go we also went ahead and tapped our oil galleries in the front for some threaded plugs deburred most of the block and cleaned up some of our oil galleries to improve oil flow now static compression ratio you're probably wondering how we're going to run something that's so high and still be on pump gas that's because static compression ratio is only part of the equation another huge part of it is dynamic compression ratio we talked about what that was before and today we're going to talk about how you can actually affect it with the components you choose for your engine now since this is an r d engine not only are we going to cover the tech but we're also going to show you how it improves performance or not on the dyno this thing looks ready so let's move on to assembly time to get working all right [Music] as always the first part of the assembly process is measuring oil clearance on our main bearings since the undersized bearings are basically brand new we are going to reuse them the arp main bolt kit is torqued to 70 pound feet just like final assembly for each journal we'll set our micrometer to the general size and use the micrometer to zero out the dial bore gauge our clearances come in between 19 and 20 10 000's that sounds a little tight but it's well within the oe spec we'll repeat the process for all the rods which are within stock chevy specification as well next the camshaft bearings are finally pressed in the pistons will receive total seals gas ported top ring set this gives you all of the benefits of a horizontal gas ported piston without having to machine the piston itself [Music] since our dyno mule engine will probably see some abuse we'll get the ring a little larger to 22 000 on the top ring and 24 000 on the second ring we'll go slowly and check our work often not to be overlooked is deburring the ring with a fine india stone after it's been filed this ensures the ring doesn't damage the piston or the cylinder wall [Music] with everything clean we'll lube up the bearings and reinstall our rebalanced and polished stock crankshaft this was done by our favorite machine shop shacklet automotive machine [Music] just like before the final torque value on the four bolt mains is 70 pound feet it's time to put a cam in our engine which brings us to why we are doing this entire operation adjusting dynamic compression ratio a lot of the times people get hung up on just static compression ratio to determine the octane and fuel they will use when dynamic compression ratio is just as important as static it is calculated the same way but you have to know a couple different things about your engine one is the connecting rod length and two where the intake valve closes in the cycle and that is directly affected by the camshaft to calculate dynamic we have to use something called effective stroke and that is the amount of stroke left after the intake valve closes now that is a large equation and if you're good at trigonometry you can get it figured out but if you know all of your numbers you can plug it into a few online resources and the math will be done for you when we built our engine in the parking lot it had a measured static compression ratio of 8.82 to 1 and had a dynamic of 7.27 to 1. now with our new parts like our 13 cc effective dome our head gasket size and our head chamber size we have a measured static compression ratio of 13.15 to 1. now that seems high but we're going to use camshaft selection to make our dynamic compression ratio pretty manageable we have two trick flow trackmax hydraulic roller camshafts on the table one is a little bit smaller one that's a little bit bigger the smaller one has durations at 50 000 lift of 230 degrees on the intake and 234 degrees on the exhaust on a 110 degree lobe separation angle the larger camshaft has durations at 50 000 lift of 246 degrees on the intake and 254 degrees on the exhaust on a 112 degree lobe separation angle because of our part selection and where we want this engine to make power we're going to use the smaller of the two camshafts we also have a summit racing billet double row timing set that is adjustable so we can dial in our intake valve center line to where we need it to be to be manageable and also run pump gas on the dyno coming up we get this small block together and get it on the dyno before the camshaft can go in our threaded oil gallery plugs must be installed you're probably wondering why we chose the smaller of the two cam shafts because of our parts choice and the purpose of this exercise we want our engine to make power a little bit lower in the rpm range it's also going to affect our dynamic compression ratio generally as a rule choosing a shorter duration camshaft will increase dynamic compression and choosing a longer duration camshaft will decrease it we're also going to be able to adjust that like we said with the intake valve center line advancing the camshaft will make the intake valve close sooner increasing effective stroke retarding the camshaft will make it closed later decreasing effective stroke with the timing set snug down we'll temporarily install the number one piston without rings so we can degree the camshaft we're putting the cams intake center line in very late at 112.75 degrees which is 2.75 degrees because we are using a stock crankshaft we know our physical stroke is 3 inch 480 thousandths but because of where our intake center line is placed our effective stroke is reduced down to 2 inch 341 thousands and that makes our dynamic compression ratio 9.17 to 1. but what does that number actually mean to us it's very important because we know the dynamic compression of all the engines we've built we've ran things on pump gas all the way down at 6.2 to 1 all the way up to nine point two four to one so this although it's on the top end of the range will run just fine with that cylinder pressure on pump gas in order to accurately check piston to valve clearance we're installing a set of cometic mls head gaskets with a 4060 bore and a 40 000 compressed thickness [Music] with cylinder 1's valve train mocked up we'll start by checking the exhaust valve clearance at 10 degrees before tdc on split overlap it comes in at 225 thousands doing the same for the intake at 10 degrees after tdc on split overlap it comes in at 249 thousands that's plenty of clearance with all of the icon pistons hung on the full floating scat rods the total seal ring pack can go on the pistons get a light coat of total seal assembly lube which is worked into the ring lands to ensure proper break-in the cylinder walls are lubed as well an arp tapered ring compressor at 4060 bore makes installing the piston assemblies much easier after breaking the rod bolts loose they get torqued to 43 pound feet to make sure they do not exceed the manufacturer's maximum stretch of 47 10 000 we are reusing the stock timing cover but the smaller 6 and 5 8 inch sfi approved balancer doesn't line up with our stock 7-inch timing pointer so we got a moroso adjustable one to replace it all we got to do is switch them out whoa an arp oil pump stud will retain the melling oil pump it's torqued to 55 pound feet [Music] a little fresh silicone in the corners and the one piece oil pan gasket and stock oil pan are reinstalled they're held down with arp 12 point stainless fasteners [Music] up next the chevy receives free-flowing cylinder heads and a no-nonsense efi system we've only got the top end to complete before this small block heads to the dyno cell after a coating of break-in oil the comp hydraulic roller lifters we got from summit racing slide in the heads are trick flow super 23 degree fast as cast 195 cc as with all small block chevys the head bolts receive ultra torque under the heads and sealant on the threads hey that rhymes the heads are torqued in three equal steps to 70 pound feet [Music] the seven 400 long comp push rods are lubed and dropped in trick flow's 1.5 ratio full roller rockers are dropped on and preload is set to one half turn past zero lash [Music] we'll lay some silicone around the water ports before installing the intake manifold gaskets [Music] after getting an immaculate bead of silicone on the china walls the trick flow dual plane street burner intake manifold with added coolant crossovers is gently laid into position [Music] arp's 12 point stainless intake manifold bolt kit holds it down [Music] the heads are sealed up with some trick flow tall cast aluminum valve covers [Music] picking the right flywheel for your street or strip vehicle is much more important than you think and today's tech tip is all about the different kinds of flywheels and we have a few different options on the table from summit racing to help us out the first kind is gray cast iron this is generally used by oe manufacturers because it's cost effective and easy to produce and will generally hold up to the power levels and rpm range of a stock vehicle if they are going to build a vehicle that's going to see more abuse like a truck or a high performance car they can use a nodular cast iron flywheel the big difference between the two is that in nodular cast iron the graphite and carbon molecules are in the form of spheres instead of flakes and this doesn't exactly increase the tensile strength of the material but it does improve its load impact resistance for higher abuse situations if you're going full on high performance the next step is a billet steel flywheel like the name suggests it's machined from one giant chunk of steel and it's gonna be much stronger than the cast versions if you're building any kind of high performance vehicle this is a go-to if you're going to be doing some form of racing that requires the engine to accelerate and decelerate quickly a great way to help that is to reduce rotating weight and you can do that with an aluminum flywheel this is machined from a big chunk of aluminum so it's still sfi approved but it has an insert here that's either bolted or riveted in for the clutch material to contact these are great in racing but if you're building a high performance street car the extra inertia and heat cycle durability of a billet steel flywheel is probably going to be the better choice if you need help figuring out what type of flywheel is best for your application you can talk to the experts at summit racing equipment we're using a billet steel externally balanced flywheel on our engine it's torqued to 80 pound feet we are getting dangerously close to firing up our small block on the dyno but to do that we need to top off the induction system and for that we will be using fitec efi this is their go efi classic black this is a direct replacement for any 4150 style or square bore carburetor it contains four 62 pound per hour injectors and it will support up to 550 horsepower to keep that classic carburetor look the ecu is separate from the throttle body itself everything is controlled monitored and programmed through their handheld now this is a great system that comes with everything that you need to hook it up in the car gaskets its own wideband o2 all the wiring harness and it also comes with a clamp on style o2 bung now if you don't have a way of welding an o2 bung into your exhaust this is a great way to get an o2 into your system [Music] if you've ever bolted on a carburetor before the phytek goes on just as easy it even uses the same throttle bracket an oem quality o2 sensor feeds information to the ecu so the system can self learn after initial startup the ecu is very compact and it easily mounts in or outside of the engine bay up next the small block struts its stuff in the dyno cell we have our engine fired up and it was easy to do the phi tech only needs to know a few things and we need to tell it what we want like we told it we wanted a 12.8 to one wide open air fuel ratio and that's about it the tune-up is conservative but that's for a reason it's all about cylinder pressure whether you're increasing cylinder pressure with boost or nitrous or dynamic compression ratio your tune-up has to change accordingly to that because we're trying to run this engine on pump gas the tune-up needs to become a lot more conservative so that's why we only have 22 degrees of timing and a target air fuel ratio of 12.8 this engine is actually really similar to a stroke mopar that we did that had a 9.05 to 1 dynamic compression ratio and it has similar airflow through the heads so it'll actually be interesting to see how much this thing makes compared to that one in terms of power per cube all right we're going to find out like right this second all right do it all right see what it does everything looks good loads in okay yeah that's pretty good wow that was uh uneventful like it should have been yeah but that's pretty good oh nice 426.9 pound feet yeah baby and 411.8 horsepower wow yeah peak torque at right at 4 000 peak power yeah right at 55 right at 55 so i think this we're not gonna stretch this thing out past six thousand we'll let's let's raise the rpm and go to 6 000 yeah see just get a clear peak there yeah and just back up that run i mean that was a nice solid yeah how about that uh 93 octane 13 to 1. and it made very similar torque per cube to that mopar that i was talking about that's that's really similar so that's very interesting no i'm not saying everyone should run out and put their engine at 13 to 1 but no but we're doing this this is an r d engine we can do whatever we want we have good we have controlled conditions to do it so all right i'm gonna raise that up a little bit twenty-five to six thousand let's see let's see if she crests over a little got a little heat in the oil here [Music] [Music] spicy oh definitely there we go right there 413 horse nice curve i mean at 6 000 you you could you could leg it out more but it's just going to drop peak horsepower happened right at 5400 so just a teeny bit lower but that's pretty close that's that's excellent uh 424.8 pound feet um boy there's a it's a long line isn't it that's a long line the the graph is nice and flat oil pressure goes up it has a little bit of vacuum in the manifold not much and it has uh vacuum in the pan so it's not detonating wow all right excellent i'm gonna i'm gonna shut this down all right interesting though that's cool you know that you can i mean that was the point of this exercise this is a this is very extreme you know you wouldn't you're not gonna go out and make all your street engines 13 you know 13 to 1 and we but we did this for a reason to show that it's not all about static compression ratio it's about dynamic and more importantly cylinder pressure right what did we learn well we learned that the engine doesn't care how it gets cylinder pressure right it can you can do it a bunch of different ways and there are many factors that are just that they have to come together it's just not one over the other static compression ratio is important right but it's just a number dynamic compression ratio is as important because it takes into account literally when things start to compress now there are other factors involved like volumetric efficiency and how much restrictions in the intake track how much the cylinder heads flow how high are you turning the engine this is a very versatile engine because we could actually change a few things up on this and then it is a race engine yeah exactly but i mean that what it what it shows you is that your part selection is really important and then what we've what we've shown here is that your tune-up is also really important if you're gonna if you plan on running pump gas and if we put race gas in it we can crank the tune to it and this thing will probably you know make a lot more power 100 yeah but because we're on pump gas that's another factor that needs to be thought of is what the tune-up is going to be right right the tune-up is very narrow because of the compression and because the dynamic impression because what we're doing the tuning window has narrowed so uh again because this is a controlled dyno condition we can do this relatively safely and uh but if you were gonna put this in a car you know and get it up to 180 200 degrees and then go and try and make a full hit on it on pump yes things would probably not work out they're not going to go your way but uh the foundation is really good yeah and i think it would be fun to see you know what else we could do with i think there's a lot more tech that we can do on this there is with even what's on it right now i think there's some more we could do so i'm a tech guy so it's all mine data all right heck yeah if you want to see more cool tech like this go check out our website

Channel: POWERNATION

Views: 831,788

Keywords: Car, PowerNation, howto, how-to, diy, automotive, cars, trucks, automobile, do it yourself, automobiles, auto, powerblock, horsepower, engine power, Chevy 350 TBI, backyard build, 350 ci Small Block Chevy, small block, small block chevy, high-performance induction, 350 tbi, backyard engine build, Dyno Mule, Pump Gas

Id: okYyReBncC8

Length: 42min 57sec (2577 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 25 2022