Rebuilding a Chevy 350 Small Block For A '69 Camaro - Engine Power S7, E13

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i'm pat toppalinski thanks for watching we know you never want to miss an episode of engine power so click the subscribe button and there you go it's the big subscribe button right there this 69 camaro is a beauty but it needs a stronger power plant hey everybody welcome to engine power today we're getting a delivery from the detroit muscle guys now they've been down working on a project for a sweepstakes giveaway that one of you guys can win and mike and i have been given the task to upgrade this power plant to make it the ultimate cruiser well fellas we brought y'all a jewel this makes me very happy to see something like this in this complete state why why does it make you so happy because we rarely get to say we've ran something as it came out of a car so with ram's horns on it that distributor kind of excited to see what it will make for power just like it came out of the car how did it feel driving the car it could have used the tune-up that kind of deal other than that it just drove like a stock 350. it needed a driver mod i can tell you that well the biggest problem was the squealing from the passenger side oh man it had plenty of power though i mean it'll ride out yeah you're going to run it with the carb and the air cleaner yeah you know run it just like it is just like now because it ran on the chassis dyno it'll be interesting to see the loss from you know engine down at a chassis dyno you know you can do that uh we didn't leave the fan on it heck yeah all right i mean why wouldn't a guy you know i mean for safety reasons we're not gonna be standing in the room so uh i i think it'll be fine what kind of power numbers do you reckon this thing's gonna make oh man i don't know i don't i don't know what they made stock and and partic the engines because they're so easy to change in these cars i don't know if this is the original engine it may or may not be the original engine from the car i mean a lot of times someone said you know this is a 350 and it's a 305 you know just stuff like that all the time so um i mean if it made in the 200s i'd be impressed okay so let's talk about where we're going with it we're talking about dynamite the way it is but what about the changes you guys are going to make then well we have a top end for it we have some spiffy heads a better intake electronical injection system i think we're going to just modernize the car make it run a little bit uh more consistently better and easier to drive this giveaway car so uh you know these people hopefully just cruise this thing until the wheels fall off because that's what it's going to be designed for yeah perfect we weren't looking for some kind of big stunt puller we just wanted something a little more peppy and reliable you know something that sounds a little better a little camp a little chop is there a way that you guys can reuse the factory air cleaner just because it's so nice like in the end or do you think it may not be big enough i may not be big enough these are i'm obviously that that's that's your air hole right there um not that this isn't uh we'll dyno it you know we'll see what it does it'll fit what we're gonna be putting on it okay but uh the problem of it is um if it kills too much power it's you're defeating the purpose of putting all these cool parts on regardless of the fact we are going to run it just like it is before we tear it apart awesome thanks guys i love it on this casting number right here it's cleaned off 393 23.88 i looked that up that is a 69 only so this is quite possibly the original engine no engine or at least they were smart enough to find one right for it this car is a real rss so who knows history this thing we want to monitor the air fuel ratio so a hole is drilled in the exhaust pipe and a holley o2 sensor boss is strapped on you ready for this light it good get out of it these rich is all get out yeah real rich nah i wouldn't have anything to do with that uh air cleaner on there looking like it's about the size of a quarter on the entry well it is about the size of a quarter i wouldn't even get it silver dollar status uh well i mean because of how rich it was and how it ran on the dyno go pull the air cleaner off right [Music] a little choppy yeah a little bit but still way better and three points higher three and a half points higher in their fuel uh 243 on power a 311 pound feet 3 400. it doesn't seem to be running as good as it ran when they brought it in you notice that they did go and beat the fire out of it after they chassis dynode i think they did but um and it's got quite a bit of blow by now because it made some clean pulls on the on the uh on the chassis dyno 227 to i think two thirds i i can't remember what was that wrong yeah somewhere in there let's make another hit make another one same setup same step it's definitely way leaner [Music] yes maybe i had some dirt daubers in it or something like that cleaned right up there we go 247 and 311. it likes that 311 number yeah no it's scaring 250 on power 311 on torque does it have oil pressure it's got great oil pressure it's got a little bit of blow by so we'll have to look at that um 65 pounds of oil pressure at 5 000. well i mean it's a starting point oh wow absolutely the biggest thing you know people buy projects like this wasn't really a project this came out of a running car i think that there's a lot of potential and we're gonna definitely improve it with the parts we're gonna put on now we talked about not going into the bottom end but with that blow by i think we did yeah yeah we're gonna might have to spiff that up but we have the tools and we have the technology that's right and the parts and the parts up next this tool tells you the truth even when you don't want to know it plus big horsepower improvements on the dyno is using racing oil in your daily driver a good idea let's find out in today's tech tip not everything made for racing is good for street use since street engines even high performance engines rarely go above partial throttle they don't usually push oil temperatures high enough to boil off contaminants that cause wear that's why motor oil for street driven vehicles contain detergents and other additives to remove and suspend contaminants racing oils are designed to be changed every few races so they don't need detergents to remove contaminants just remember if you use race oil in your daily driver and you follow the 3 000 mile change interval that can lead to harmful buildups tearing down a small block chevy is as simple as things get for a v8 this one leaked and looks like it should have come out of an off-road truck not a restored muscle car here we go iron out this engine sat for look like a long time yeah now that happens when you set it have it sitting without coolant in it and then you put coolant in it you know it'll sometimes loosen all that stuff up and yeah dang crusty crusty oh god wow they weren't leaking that's nice the rest of the parts didn't show any damage but they did have normal wear this engine has been on the road for a long time [Music] i tell you it's not horrible for you block is already 40 over yeah now what's safe on these overboard 60 60. there you go [Music] we did happen to find a nice surprise though nice oh my goodness look at the skirts wow look at that dude it ran fine after a quick wash job and before this block goes to the machine shop we want to check it out with our goodson crack detector before machining a used block this procedure is a must one semi-clean block well it's clean enough to do what we're doing uh is your wallet out all your questions this uh this will generate so much gauss which initially now i don't think we even have to use this because i think we see a giant problem already before we get started there's a decent bulge right here there's a bulge look at this how did that not leak on the dyno okay i can tell you why when i drained the antifreeze before i put it on the dyno when i pulled these two plugs out they were solid and they were filled with blocks and and block sealer it's not uncommon on these because half the time the radiators are plugged or whatever like they're they're leaking and they want to plug them so they dump all that stuff in and this was completely covered by oil this particular one because it didn't leak it could probably be repaired but we are not going to mess with all around all around the all around the drain plug look at that up there there's one up there too when one bites the dust literally we pull another out of our stash this is a later model block that has been converted to accept a two-piece rear main seal just like the cracked one this is a four bolt main two the block has been machined and since we already have the rotating assembly with pistons the only thing it needs is to have the bores enlarged 30 thousands to enlarge the bores we will use our sun and sv15 home a torque plate will be used to mimic a cylinder head torque to the block this will eliminate bore distortion so the cylinder stays round and true during final assembly coming up engine upgrades and free-flowing heads breathe new life into the 350. with the cylinder honing finish the block got a wash so we could start the assembly process we checked all the bearing clearances filed the rings to achieve a 27 thousandths end gap and verified piston to wall clearance half of the two piece rear main seal was installed and now the scat cast crank is ready to go in the icon forged pistons are mated up to the scat 5140 i-beam rods and secured with spiral locks [Music] installing the total seal gapless ring set is a little more involved than a standard ring set make sure to follow the instructions for ring orientation and keep the gaps away from each other with lube on the rings piston skirts and bearings the assemblies can go into the bores [Music] here's a look at all the specs if you like this build sheet and want it log on to powernation tv.com go to engine power and it's available for you to download now the camshaft can be installed it's a comp cams hydraulic roller straight off the summit racing shelf duration at 50 000 slip is 242 degrees on the intake and 248 degrees on the exhaust lobe separation is 110 degrees and lift is 540 thousands on the intake and 562 000 on the hot side linking the crank and camshaft is a double row trick flow timing set every cam that is installed here gets degreed this one installs at six degrees advanced we had a chloe's quick button two-piece timing cover on the shelf so it's being used it has a built-in roller button that is adjustable a summit racing 8 inch harmonic balancer is next make sure to apply permatex anti-seize inside its bore before pressing it on an arp balancer bolt is torqued to 80 pound-feet setting the msd timing corner at true tdc is a must this one was specifically made for an 8-inch balancer a melling high volume oil pump is mounting up the pickup is for a pen that we had on the shelf off a different engine we checked the pickup to pan clearance and it's good it will fit the camaro chassis great as well arp bolts are securing everything after soaking in oil for a little bit of time the hydraulic roller tie bar lifters from comp cams are going in the blocks lifter boards we have cometic gaskets with the 27 thousandths compressed thickness resting on the decks the cylinder heads are trick flow super 23s with a 195 cc intake runner the exhaust runner volume is 75 cc's and has a d-shaped port the combustion chamber is 72 cc's and has a 202 intake and a 1 600 exhaust valve they come as cast but the extra thick decks and walls give you plenty of material to do extensive porting if you want to with the intake gaskets in place we're laying down this super sweet bead of silicone on the china rails it's permatex right stuff one minute black gasket maker and it works most excellent the intake manifold for this build is a dual plane street burner from trick flow it has an operating range from 1 500 to 6 500 rpm and is an open air design it has rear water outlets and two distributor clamp locations arp bolts are tightened in a cross pattern to lock it down an electric water pump is our go-to for the dyno not just for power but also safety comp cams push rods are going in these have an 80 thousandths wall thickness and are 7 100 long they have a 5 16 ball on each end also from comp our 1.6 roller rockers these are from their ultra pro magnum line and are a full roller with a chromoly body we can't get enough of holley efi components this is the sniper stealth 4150 system it looks like a carburetor and we ordered this one in a gold finish it has four 100 pound an hour injectors and is capable of supporting 650 naturally aspirated horsepower or 600 with forced induction it's self-learning super simple to install and even easier to set up a locked out msd distributor will send a spark to the plugs [Music] arp has a new tool they develop called the stud installation tool now it's designed to be used when the actual head gasket and cylinder head are placed on the engine's deck surface it was developed to avoid the studs run out thread from contacting the top of the deck when slightly loaded causing the stud to sit crooked or angled the original fix was to back the stud off about a half a turn now the tool also helps with having the studs not installed when you put the cylinder head on there's no aluminum shavings that can fall into the bore or other areas of the engine this tool works on all types of studs not just for the cylinder head now proper installation of them is a must to achieve the proper torque loads arp is always coming up with ways for engine builders and diy guys to improve assembly and results here's a quick look at how it works it accepts a conventional socket for the nut size you are dealing with the t-handle slips through the center of the handle to engage the stud depending on the stud design you will bottom it out or after bottoming out reverse it a turn then simply put a little preload on the nut and you are ready to torque log on to arp dash bolts dot com to find out more up next we add up the numbers in the dino cell oh look at that graph all right now we got some torque we got some power all right my favorite time of day dino day here comes fuel miter there's always one question on everyone's mind when an engine fires up on the dyno what do you think it's gonna make you know conservatively i think this thing's gonna make in the low to mid fours relatively easy we're not trying to swing for the fence on power on this thing this car has to have drivability i'd be happy if it if it made four or anything if it makes for anything you know we've already doubled the power yes oh yeah the efi system comes with a handheld monitor where you input all the engine's parameters and do all the tuning it cannot get any more simple it will prompt you to start the engine then let it warm up to 160 degrees at this point the system starts learning and dialing in to reach the targeted air fuel ratio 30 degrees of timing right now uh this is the 25 to 55 at 600 per second just to see where we're at this is the fact-finding run here we go man not a bad person yeah still still learning a little bit 396 on power 388 on tour okay almost 400 yep okay torque peaked at 4 [Music] 800. oh that sounds nice super clean oh look at that graph all right now we got some torque we got some power 434 on power 437 on tour uh that torque is flat yeah peak torque was at 4300 and it held 437 for about 400 rpm nice okay now i'm gonna i'm gonna put a little bit of timing to it um this this thing flat top nine to one uh i'm gonna i'm gonna throw like three degrees at it sounds good it should pick up quite a bit [Music] sounded good of course they all sound good 442 439 okay all right now we're not we haven't messed with the fuel though we got a target air fuel of like 12 8 or something like that right we're not you know razoring that down to the you know to the umph degree just because these are more advantageous when you're tuning on them on the street oh yeah because you know this this thing we're doing like very specific ranges on the street you can tailor your cruise uh air fuel your wide open and your idle so um good i mean i mean we're on a good path right here right you can tell that by the graph right now uh uh i mean typically flat top big chamber like this what we can try i'm gonna put i'm gonna stab a stabber up to like 36. all right and uh i know it's a big jump pump gas nine nine to one you know we got 93 octane in it um that'll tell you if we're we went too far you know what i'm saying beautiful we will either crest over on torque or not we could eke it up like a degree at a time but on something like this they are i want to see that change you know what i'm saying and these engines i feel a lot more confident in doing that yes then if this was a race gas 15 to 1 you know operation like that so let me stick some timing in it [Music] [Applause] [Music] i think it picked up a little bit but we picked up a few we're about right there aren't we yep 442 442 that's a good round number to stop on it to the tenth 442.3 442.3 i like it that's cool that is sweet what that's that's that sounds like a lucky number to stop on right there yep 5800 on uh power and 4 500 on tour okay see that right there 1300 rpms between peaks that makes a very nice street engine the more you can spread out the peak torque to peak power the better the engine runs over the average yep so nice for more info on any of the parts you've seen log on to powernationtv.com
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Channel: POWERNATION
Views: 967,486
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Car, PowerNation, howto, how-to, diy, automotive, cars, trucks, automobile, do it yourself, automobiles, auto, engine power, engine build, horsepower, 350 engine, chevy small block, chevy, small block chevy, chevrolet, engine building, powernation, car
Id: Ujrk74s2bgA
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 21min 42sec (1302 seconds)
Published: Sun Sep 20 2020
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