Silk Press on Low Porosity Type 4..slash type, 3 slash type 9 slash YA'LL ITS CURLY HAIR! SHEESH! 🙃

what's up youtube family i'm back if you're new to my channel do me a favor make sure you hit that like and subscribe button and turn on your post notifications so you are the first to know when i post a new video today i'll be doing a silk press on low porosity type 4 here yes i said type 4 here and we're going to get into some curl typing a little bit in this video because y'all was coming for me in the last one saying i don't see type 4 here well i'm going to educate you just a little bit more for those that don't like my talking and say i talk too much in the videos that's fine if you're here to just watch hit that mute button and enjoy the picture but if you're here to learn turn that volume up get your notepad out and let's go okay first thing i'm going to do is go and i always do a scalp analysis okay i check to see what's going on with my client scalp because healthy hair starts there this particular guest says she always has flaking and she says she has dry scalp and she's been using head and shoulders at home no shady head and shoulders but it's not formulated for what she needs it to do she does not have dandruff she does not have dry scalp she has an overactive scalp the scalp starts to shed skin layers because there's oil trapped underneath okay so the best thing to do is exfoliate and i do not mean with the cone i mean with the solution okay the comb it feels great and because you know you're scratching an itch but it actually can inflame and damage the scalp and eventually leads to scarring so you want to avoid that as much as possible i know it's tempting to go in and lift those flakes off if you have to do it do it very gently but do not scratch the scalp i repeat do not scratch the scalp all right this particular product that i'm using is by mazzani it's our exfoliating pre-treatment um it's active ingredient it's salicylic acid all right it does an amazing job at dissolving dead skin cells and removing that buildup prior to shampooing okay it goes on dry if you need to miss the ends for detangling purposes you can do that but go ahead and apply this directly to the scalp unfortunately it is not available for retail it's only available for styles because it does have a very powerful active ingredient okay we don't want you using this at home it's a salon treatment all right but it does this job now starting the shampoo process you'll see with low porosity hair guys it's very important that you take your time and saturate the hair all right saturate with water the hair has a very tight cuticle layer and you want to open that cuticle layer up with warm water and let the water start to do the work what is going to cleanse and water is going to hydrate one of the biggest myths i see in the natural hair care industry right now is we're using tons of oils and butters and all that and that's good it gives the hair slip it gives the hair manageability but it is not moisture do not confuse the two hydration comes from water it does not come from product again hydration comes from water everything else attaches to that water molecule and helps it sit inside the hair shaft to maintain its moisture okay those things maintain moisture they seal in moisture or they seal moisture out but they do not moisturize the hair which you have my hair feel soft if i use it yes because it's coated okay you have a coating on the hair shaft now that will make the hair appear and feel soft which is fine you need that especially when you're working with textured hair but be careful that if you do not remove those products properly you do not clarify the hair on the scalp it will result in build up and it'll start to have an adverse effect because it will block out the moisture water that needs to get inside the hair shaft okay wet wet wet wet wet saturate the hair with water and you can see on her first shampoo i get a lather why because the water has done its job of buffing buffering off a lot of that build up and the product off of the hair shaft okay so saturate the hair when you're at the shampoo bowl if the hair is still expanded and still filling up the shampoo bowl and still in its dry natural state and that water is beating off of it it has not properly accepted the water keep going wet it down until it's saturated the thing about low porosity here is resistant to product and it is resistant to water it typically beads off okay but take your time anyway as i apply the shampoo i apply it to the center of the head and the top and the back shampoo needs to hit everything on clients with dense hair most of the time the middle gets missed and that's the part when you go to blow dry you have all that smoke um and it's a different color smoke you know when the hair is dirty and it has a scent okay nobody wants that make sure you get the hair clean ain't nothing like blow dry and dirty hair is not okay and on top of that you're frying those natural oils into the hair shaft okay so make sure you cleanse it thoroughly you know if you've seen my previous videos i always start with a clarifying shampoo don't care who it is i'm going to clarify here get everything out i'm going to set the hair up for success what this also does clarifying shampoos have healators and they start to open up that cuticle gently so the hair can accept water and the moisturizing agents that come in the conditioning all right so again i'm going to repeat this process i'm going to rinse the shampoo out and start all over again i do this three times for 90 of my guests are getting shampooed three times all right i need to remove everything out i want to start with a clean canvas very very important take your time at the bowl do not rush this process this is the most important process i don't know what this trend is in the industry right now where people can show up to the salon with pre-wash here and we go right and start blow drying and pressing and braiding all that stuff i'm a little old school new school i believe in a good shampoo sorry not sorry we're gonna wash your hair period now for braiders i can make that exception i know that you know time is time is of the essence and for the most part we're not doing extreme um you know heat or anything like that we're just braiding the hair again you want to make sure you're going to go into someone that's going to take care of your hair and your scalp okay it matters take your time and cleanse that hair on top of that we cannot see what's going on with the hair when it's in this dry state when you come into salon i need it wet i need to see how it responds to water that tells me about its porosity that tells me about your curl pattern it tells me about density also tells me what the hair needs is it is the elasticity shot is the porosity shot um is it broken is it weak it tells me all this when water gets in the hair you see the hair at its best and it is worse when the hair is wet i need to see what it's capable of i need to know what kind of heat i'm going to use how's my blow dryer process going to be what i need to treat it with you learn all this at the shampoo ball this is the most important time of the service okay so we can't continue to skip over this let's get back to textbook sanitation 101 and cleansing 101 okay this is where you learn about the hair in the scalp at the bowl don't skip it alright so i'm rinsing out my second shampoo here rinse rinse rinse rinse rinse take your time open the hair up get to the center get to the back get all that shampoo and that product out okay it's very important if you still feel residue going again if you got to do a fourth shampoo going again it matters make sure that guest leaves the bowl fully set up for a successful silk press service or whatever you're doing okay all right after i get this rinse i'm going to move on to my conditioning process i use a lot of conditioner i make sure i start at the ends and the hair is soaking wet okay water is the carrier it's going to help the conditioner get where it needs to go so take your time and make sure the hair is soaking wet and apply your conditioner okay start at the root work my way all the way down to the tip okay once i've got that emulsified i'll go in and start detangling you know my favorite tool of choice when i detangle this is some kind of a brush i'm not in favor of the wide tooth comb only because it skips over the tiny micro tangles and the single strand knots that i need to make sure get out okay if not it makes for a very painful blow dry process okay and because i've been detangling the entire time i've been shampooing at this point detangling is easy you'll see my brush literally glides right through it glides right through without an issue we've been detangling the whole time so my fingers in essence while i'm shampooing will work like that wide tooth comb to get all the big stuff my brush comes in then to get all those micro tangles and those single strand knots so take your time section by section don't miss nothing don't rush i know this video is sped up so it looks like i'm going much faster than i am but i took my time okay this also will start to show you the hair's curl pattern while i'm detangling i get to see everything that's going on with the hair i get to see the density and it also tells me about those ends for a client that has not had um a trim in a while i can see that at the shampoo shampoo bowl the ends either won't define they'll snag and it tells me how far up those those split ends go okay moving on keep working that conditioner in take your time make sure the hair is fully coated with conditioner with low porosity hair it's actually very important and i'm gonna say something that's completely adverse to what i've been seeing in some youtube videos from you know the natural community you need uh heavily water-based conditioners the reason why i see that is the molecules are much smaller and easier to penetrate the hair shaft you do not want conditioner to sit on top it does nothing on top of the hair a soft cuticle don't benefit nobody okay it's the inside of the hair shaft that we that's where we want to get that moisture so really uh loose to creamy consistency conditioners because they're going to do their job okay and you can see her hair is already starting to absorb it work it in take your time right here i'm just feeling the hair i want to see what the ends are like i'm testing elasticity again all this is learned at the shampoo bowl you cannot skip this process guys i don't know how we got into the industry where we are and we're not taking the time of the shampoo ball it's not a quick service it's not something just to get through this is important okay take your time feel the hair feel the density and i'm talking to my client during this part i'm educating about her hair letting her know what i come across what i feel what i see what i know i'm letting her know that and we're tweaking her regimen the whole appointment is a consultation in essence we're tweaking her regimen at home telling her about her curl pattern her density what she needs to adjust also very important okay so after i've gotten this conditioner on i'm actually going to put her under a hooded dryer for about 15 minutes sometimes i alternate between my hooded dryer and my steamer it just depends on what i want to achieve i know that her hair is low porosity and as you can see after she comes out her hair has not been rinsed it has not been rinsed the conditioner has been completely absorbed this is what you want this is what you want guys the conditioning agents are inside her hair shaft boom just like that they're inside her hair has not touched water since i put the conditioner on it it sucked up that water in that conditioner this is what you want i know this is what i will it look like ain't nothing on there it's not supposed to be all right moving on so we rinse the conditioner out i've already sectioned her head i'm about to blow dry so when i'm working with dense hair and i'm about to blow dry of course i section everything but what i also would do is put it in a two-strand twist and i will start to clip those out of the way it keeps me down to one clip on the head the whole time so i don't have a whole bunch of clips going around everything secured in that one clip up top by those two strand twists you know my blow dry method if you don't check out one of my previous videos but i believe in stretching the hair and at mazani we teach tension and heat must meet i am a tension blow dryer that means i need a brush that's gonna give me tension and i need the heat from my blow dryer okay that's where i get the best results remember you're trying to chemically alter the state temporarily of course of the hair shaft you do that by stretching those bonds out okay as i'm stretching her hair the hydrogen bond is being reformed and those other bonds are forming around okay stretch the hair out you need tension what this also does is create low manipulation so you don't see my brush passing through the hair over and over and over again you beat the hair up that way stretch it out first dry it completely and then you can go and start manipulating is very important also if you're working with um dealing with the porosity if you're working with high porosity hair it's best to use medium heat at first because you don't want the hair to dry before you get it straight that's the other thing if you're using an extremely hot blow dryer you're gonna dry the hair out into a big fist ball before it ever gets straight because you haven't had a chance to stretch it out so the heat's gonna dry the hair but you haven't got a chance to stretch it you're gonna it's gonna result in a frizzy silk press or you may get it still pressed out but you're going to burn it up at the same time you have to use more work from that flat iron okay so for high porosity here turn the heat down as you move to medium porosity here you can go up to high heat low porosity or high heat as well reason why i say that with low porosity hair the heat's not penetrating yet by the time i've gotten it dry it's going to be just where i want it okay so my dryer is on high heat i know i do oscillate when i get closer to the roots you can't see my thumb moving here my thumb's like a little trigger finger but as i move up close to the scalp i typically would turn my heat down on my dryer because i don't need a whole lot of heat there my goal at that point is to dry the roots stretch them out the hair is very malleable up there so i don't want to put too much heat up there also i don't want to burn my client i said in my last videos burns are not normal and it's uncomfortable who want to be burned nobody got time for that take your time take your time take your time all right so i'm working through the hair blow drying section by section i work in small sections i never just dive in okay don't just dive in you're gonna get lost in it you're gonna have inconsistent results okay take your time now when i get through a large section of here what i always do is go back sometimes water from the previous section will drip down and you'll end up with a wet section at the back of the bottom or around the face go in on medium heat or cool and just blow dry that scalp to make sure you got all that moisture out because what will happen is as she sits and you're working on other sections the previous sections will start to revert you know why because you've left moisture in the hair shaft and on the scalp and that's going to equal reversion we don't want that i forgot to mention i did apply my heat protectants prior to put it in putting her hair in um the twist and and sectioning it out i used my 25 miracle milk by mizani as well as my smooth guard serum and when i go to press i actually apply a little bit more of that serum just before i start to press but those are the only two products i use throughout this whole process okay now don't be alarmed i said it before my previous videos if you see fumes or smoke coming off of your blow dryer it's actually steam okay there's a difference between smoke and steam usually steam is translucent or white in color if you see blue colored smoke or gray color that's a sign something is burning whether that be product whether it be the hair shaft itself it's very unlikely that it's from the hip that the hair is actually burning through a blow dry process unless you like physically holding the dryer in place on a section of hair it's very unlikely most heat damage occurs from the flat iron okay so don't be alarmed if you see some steam it's just water leaving the hair shaft as well as the product okay going in now with my flat iron i have my flat iron set to 410 degrees yes 410 i'm using high heat i'm not at 450 i'm at 410. um seldom do i go to 450 unless i'm doing a sew-in or a weave and i'm using that on extensions and i want to bone straight besides that i'm using a 410 guy anywhere between 370 and 410 depending on the density and the hair type okay let's talk about hair typing it's a headache for me okay you know why we cannot fit six billion people into four hair types i know that the hair chart has been innovative and it's really helped in terms of product knowledge and help in some ways clients decide what products works best for their hair type but and i say but strongly again everyone is not fit in those four categories and there are more important things than curls okay yes i said that there are more important things than curls you have to look at density porosity is the hair chemically treated is the hair fine is it medium is it coarse all those things go into play when it comes to choosing product and curl type is the last thing i'm considering usually when a client gets in my chair now i will use curl topping on my channel just for ease of recognition when you guys click on the video but please believe i've taken about 90 more things into context when i'm styling the hair and when i'm choosing my products my heat settings my shampoos and conditioners i'm thinking about other things besides curl type because if you build a regimen based off curl top you'll end up in disappointment and end up with thousands of products in your cabinet i see it all the time people have a whole stockpile or a beauty supply store in their bathroom from all the products they bought and didn't work why because you bought products based on curl type and not based on your texture type okay texture type characteristics matter when it comes to porosity you can hear me throw that word out ten million times in that in this video because it's so important porosity hair diameter and hair texture is it coarse is it fine is it medium those are the things that count because you can have type 4 hair but have low porosity or you can have type 4 hair and have high porosity and the conditioner that worked on the other might not work on this one okay so you have to take that in consideration all right low porosity hair tends to give a very dense shine or a very high intensity shine because the cuticle layers are so tight and you know when you got them smooth you'll see that shine come on the hair now the thing about low porosity products again i stated at the shampoo bowl conditioner sit on top okay so you want to use a creamy or watery or water-based conditioner because it's going to penetrate that hair chef batter and put it under some heat okay so again texture type is not so much of the importance here i'm not really worried about whether she's type 4 3c 3b whatever okay everybody doesn't fit on that on that chart and on one head on her head alone i found four different types and mind you she doesn't put a lot of heat on her hair she hasn't had it professionally trimmed and i think a little over a year um so you can see it it really doesn't go into play here she has four different textures in the middle of her head she had a four a four b almost to a zigzag the bottom was like a four a the middle and top was three c and some three b so again i can't build a whole product regimen based off her cure type i have to look at everything one thing i can say her porosity was consistent the whole way around while her curl wasn't her porosity was alright so just remember that curl typing is not the end-all be-all it's not the holy grail you gotta look at the other things all right so it's trim time now i actually slowed this portion down for you guys so you can see the full trim she has not had her hair professionally trimmed and i think she said a little over a year she's been snipping at home little things she would find but she hasn't had someone going and trimmed the whole thing in over a year so you can see her into a little split about two inches up now again this part actually consult the whole way through i never just start cutting this has led to so much trauma with guests in people's chair because people have just started cutting and you haven't notified them yes they may have need five inches cut off but that's jarring to some people communicate okay nine times out of ten they'll go along with what you want or what you advise but even if they don't cut what they want to cut off if they only want to inch cut off or they want oh they only want to dust it do your job and just dust it period it leads to a return client and it builds trust okay so when i do say i need to do something drastic they trust me all right they know i'm not just making a decision because i'm just scissor happy now do i believe in scissor happy hairstylist no people aren't just cutting your hair for thrills and they just get some you know adrenaline rush like cutting your hair they're just doing what they think is best honestly but what's best and what's communicated are two different things i'll say that again what's best and what's communicated are two different things what's communicated is the way to go okay period all right so going in establishing my length i use my chair as a guide here because that's where i saw that line starting to form now could i have trimmed higher yes but again i don't like to draw my clients and i know what's necessary i trimmed off what was absolutely necessary to come off and what i do is build a trim regimen so most of my guests get trimmed every three to four months yes i know i don't follow six to eight six to eight week rule i don't ever plan to follow because your hair grows in different phases you have anagen telogen and catagen at one point your hair is growing at one point your hair is resting at another point your hair is shedding okay so you have to take that into consideration at any point she could be in one of those one of those phases and i don't want to just cut just for the sake of cutting all right so i usually build out a regimen custom to each client so for her i suggested she come back in two to two and a half months a little faster than normal so i can get some of those dead ends off and prevent them from further splitting up the shaft and then as time goes on i get a healthy head of hair we will move up and start stretching that time out okay if you don't trim the ends on time the danger in that is the hair starts to split up the shaft and you'll end up with a head full of split ends literally so no matter how much you trim or how much you condition the hair just won't style right the ends won't curl right so you'll have trouble with maintaining a style it'll frizz out easily just because you literally have a head full of ends all right so trim on time get a professional stick to a regimen it matters you can't condition split ends i'm sorry they have to be cut off the only treatment for split in is the scissors all right you have to cut it off the proper term for is hair tricoptilosis and if you read up on it they say the only treatment is to cut it period cut it off that's okay it's gonna roll back and you'll experience more length retention some of the biggest issues i see with uh guests when they say my hair has always been this lame it won't stretch out past this point i asked well how often are you getting trimmed and usually said well i haven't had a trim in the year i'm like that's probably why and i use the fear is that if i trim my hair i'm going to lose length and immediately yes you will lose a couple of inches but in the long run you're going to gain so much more length because your ends will not split up the shaft so you'll retain the length that you're getting also i want to speak to this when it comes to hair supplements now i know we've been inundated with biotin and and you know hair supplements and it's not a third there is nothing that can change the biological clock or your genetics that can make your hair grow faster okay you cannot make your hair grow faster what you can do is help your hair grow healthier okay and that starts with diet boom i know y'all don't like that word diet yes i said that if you're eating the wrong things your hair is going to show it okay you cannot just eat trash and eat junk and expect your hair to flourish okay it needs water it needs nutrients it needs vitamins the truth be told your hair your body typically has all the biotin it needs because your hair actually uses biotin for a few other things including digestion so when you take those supplements if you have a deficiency in another area your body is going to send that supplement to whatever area it feels needs it the most and usually that's not hair hair is considered a waste product from the body okay so it's dead last on the totem pole to get nutrients all right and you can't treat it from the outside you can help to maintain it from the outside but you cannot do anything to alter the state of the hair once it's been altered after it's left your scalp okay all right so the supplements good stuff but just make sure you're balancing out with a diet otherwise you're not going to see the results you want or it'll be a quick result and it won't last okay you can't override your biological clot you can't make it do something it doesn't want to do very important all right get it trimmed on time get a good regimen at home for hydration and treating it and you're going to see some good length results and some length retention okay and the goal is is healthy hair it's not just length it's healthy hair i can't tell you how many guests i see that have head full of hair a head full of hair that just needs to be cut off only because it's not healthy all right and you can't change it sometimes after the fact it's an ongoing process all right so just trimming here i lift up i'm not laying her hair layering her hair per se i'm trimming it in its natural state so you notice i don't lift anything super high i'm leaving out at natural elevations i don't want to change the shape of her curls when she goes back to curly now i know i post a lot of silk presses on here and i'm going to start to alter that soon you'll see some curly styles and some other things coming to play but usually by the time a guest gets to me for a maintenance appointment they usually want it straight so that's usually what i film but most of my guests are natural i have a handful of relaxed clients and those relaxed clients that i do have usually have short hair now that i'm anti-relaxer because i still like them they do their job and for a client that has um you know a very hectic lifestyle that needs low maintenance or what i consider here illiterate they don't want to take care of their hair at home they don't want to have to do nothing but rapid a relaxing may be the way to go but most of my guests are natural okay and they have all the curls they come in where they want it trimmed or they want to silk press but for the most part during the week they'll win it curly okay so she'll be able to successfully go back to a curly style when this is over all right so my trim is complete i'm going to go in now and restyle i have turned my irons down for styling and i've also misted her hair with the anti-humidity holding spray by mazani okay it's called hrm write that down hrm will be your best friend when you're styling it's also going to help block out any moisture from the environment now we are in the winter so there's not a whole lot of precipitation in the air out here it's usually pretty dry in the winter time which is why you see dry scalps and usually dry hair because there's so much uh such a lack of moisture in the air but the spray does still help me style and it helps leave a nice shine under here that shine is real it's not just light what i've done with my lights around my stage and i try to mimic daylight as best as possible because i do a lot of color and i need to see the color for what it is so i have my station almost kind of like daylit so this is actually what her hair would look like outside in a day like the shine is real and that's the sign of a closed cuticle okay if you're working hard with the iron it's usually a sign that you have not properly closed that cuticle between the conditioning process and the blow dryer all right you want that cuticle sealed down and heavy products won't do it they'll give you a temporary shine but they'll start to make the hair feel weighted down and eventually dry i can't tell you how many clients they say i use so much oil on my hair my hair is still dry yes because oil is not moisture okay you cannot hydrate the hair with oil you can seal in moisture all right you can tell people i said that boom that's for the loc method all that other good stuff okay whatever you want to call it a lot or you know liquid oil cream does that the third you need water all right water and then after water comes in oil or cream to seal in that moisture all right you know this is my favorite part the comb out yes the comb out look at it y'all look at the shine it's real it's real she loved her hair she loved the way it felt she loved the way it moved and i'm 100 positive when she watches it's going to revert you got to know the hair inside and out and this is a monumental difference from how we started her hair is hydrated it's bouncy it's lightweight it doesn't smell burnt it doesn't feel burnt she doesn't have any burns all right and she has all her length hair looks extremely healthy she was super happy with it she's also a fellow youtuber i'm gonna tag her down below she's uh chronicling her relaxed and natural journey so check her out in the in the description box below and follow her journey but her hair looks great okay i didn't use any air control uh edge control this particular time i love the way her edges you just flow naturally it looks great okay so check her out she loved her hair and i'm giving her some at home tips about how to wrap it um how to pin curl when you're pin curling you'll see me do it um when you pick the hair up don't don't wrap it around your finger that usually going to set the hair in another shape just use your fingers and rake through the hair the hair will usually gather and form one curl and then pick that one curl up and pin it in place they don't have to be super neat they don't have to be super tight to the hair but you see my hand just pulling through it'll form one curl pick it up from the bottom and just pin it in place she'll probably do five giant pin curls across her whole head tie it up with her scarf or satin bonnet take it out in the morning brush it back away from the face and go and that's it resist the urge to wrap it around your finger it's going to form a new curl and you end up looking like curly sue in the morning and it's something different okay so just gently pick it up put it in place but that's it make sure you guys like share and subscribe and comment i love your questions i love the uh the dialogue is good guys i love this channel i love my fans alright i'm out

Channel: Travelle Lavar

Views: 260,671

Rating: 4.9618993 out of 5

Keywords: silk press, naturalhair, type4hair, curly hair, hair video

Id: qLDCdsl5SHs

Length: 26min 34sec (1594 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 05 2021